Portage next morning was over the half mile or more of the rough reef to reload just below the present railroad bridge at that place. It is not clear from Mrs. Whitman's account whether about four miles further downstream they again portaged round Ninemile Rapids (Upper Dalles) or "ran" through that half mile of narrow current. Low stage of water in September would have permitted this. About four miles further down are Fivemile Rapids, so designated by the engineers but more often called Grande Dalles, where the immense flow of the Columbia turns literally on edge for one and a half miles between rocky walls scarcely two hundred feet apart. Attempting to take a close view of this wonderful work of nature, Mrs. Whitman disturbed a nest of troublesome insects, much to the discomfort of herself and the other travelers during the remainder of the day. The boat was carried over this rocky and sandy portage of nearly two miles and put into the water again just below Big Eddy of the present day. (Building of the railroads and canal has changed entirely the land topography at that point). Camp that night was probably at or near the present city of The Dalles. The Dalles was the highest point on the Columbia to which the “canoe” Indians of the Chinookan family were accustomed to ascend. During the next day's travel opportunity was afforded to observe closely the flattened heads, customary among those tribes. Mrs. Whitman mentions meeting the express boat of the company and later tells of the return of the same to Fort Vancouver. This was the fall express, which carried mail and sometimes passengers, ascending the Columbia to the western end of Athabaska Pass in British Columbia. There it met the officers returning from the annual council at York, on Hudson Bay, or Moose fort, and bringing letters from Montreal and the east.
"8th Came last night quite to the Chutes, a fall in the river
not navagable where we slept & this morning before breakfast
made the portage. All were obliged to land, unload carry our
baggage & even the boat for a half mile. I had frequently seen
the picture representing the Indians carrying their canores, but
now I saw the reality. We found plenty of Indians here to assist in making the portage. After loading several with our bag-
