CHAPTER XVI.
Dunkeld—Our Jehu—On the box seat—A Chinese Boniface—Gabriel's Gully—Good farming—Dunedin—Harbour works—A category of "the biggest things on record"— Charms of Dunedin—A holiday drive—The Grand Hotel—The churches—Preachers—Dunedin mud—Beer—Keen business competition—The West Coast connection—"Wild Cat" claims—The Scotch element—Litigiousness—Energy of the people.
Roxburgh, like nearly all the other goldfields towns in New Zealand, is now but a shadow of its former self. There is not much of interest to note about it.
To Dunkeld, we ride through a wide pastoral valley studded with numerous farms, and pass the deserted sites of old gold-crushings by the river. One or two dredges are still at work in the stream; but the gold got now is insignificant in comparison with the returns of the pristine rushes, when the valley was a busy humming human hive. Old James McIntosh, our Jehu, one of the oldest drivers in New Zealand, is full of reminiscences of these stirring times. He points out to us the fine freehold estate of Mr. Joseph Clarke, brother of Sir William Clarke, of Victoria. Many farms about here are let at a high rental. I was told they