Page:Peterson's Magazine 1842, Volume I.pdf/121

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98
THE LADY'S
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pointe ; a double row of white lace falls over the top of the corsage, and is attached down the front of the body with five small roses, the lower rose forming the point of the waist ; short sleeves trimmed with three falls of white blonde caught in the front of the arm with a pink rose.

We subjoin our monthly report of the styles most prevalent in Paris.

EVENING DRESSES.-The most favorite materials for evening dresses are les damas d' Ispahan, les crépes de Siam, les mousselines Victoria, les barèges Isabelle, and Clemantine. There is a fashionable dress of green satin trimmed en tablier with three folds of the same, each fold attached with gold clasps ; the corsage sitting close to the figure and low, à pointe ; the sleeves short and tight, ornamented with English lace manchettes falling over them ; another of the dresses was in a nacréides, the ground flowered with gold, having volants of lace placed slanting en tablier, and one in scarlet velvet, with double volants of lace ; body à pointe, berthe in lace descending to the middle of the corsage. BALL DRESSES .-For ball dresses the most favorite style is decidedly those composed of double jupons, of different but well-assorted colors- for instance, a short upper dress in orange-colored satin over one in blue, the upper skirt open on each side, and upon the side of each opening is placed a perfect échelle, composed of nœuds of orange-colored ribbon, allowing the blue skirt to be seen underneath ; in fact, nothing is now worn for evening costume but the double jupons in crêpe lace of tulle, mostly ornamented with torsades of pearls, coques of ribbon or trimmings of flowers. WALKING DRESSES.-The newest style for this description of dress are those made in fancy silks, the body high and sitting close to the figure, slightly stif fened, à révers, and lined with a brighter shade : buttons of silver gilt plain and very bright, disposed in the shape of a fan ; sleeves à la Quaker, the top of the skirt gaged into the waist in three rows. Pelisse robes are much worn made in tissu ; the colors marine blue, violet, and deep blue, others in Scotch velvets ; these dresses are made perfectly simple. Then we have seen the Macintoshes in reps de laine of a deep green or myrtle green ; ceinture a double coulisse ; the back broad and plaited in at the waist by the coulisse, the fronts à revers Capuchin, open and trimmed with a fringe, and used for out-door costume. HEAD DRESSES .-The greatest novelty in the style of head-dresses is that called Isabelle ; it is either made in velvet or lace ornamented with bouquets of the lily of the valley or branches of the eglantine ; it is attached at the back of the head with barbes of lace falling over the back hair. Another and rather a younger style of head-dress is called Moscovite, being formed of a light scarf in tartalane, having a rich embroidery of gold, edged at the sides with gold fringe, the two ends of the

scarf falling over the same side, giving it somewhat the appearance of a turban. Scarfs in lace are favorite materials for petit coiffures ; they are generally intermixed with ribbons of gold or what has still a richer effect, with a ground-work of résille d ' or. We must not forget that pretty little coiffure, called Alambra, composed of gold wheat ears, intermixed with black or purple velvet, the ends finished with magnificent tassels falling on the neck and shoulders. The toque Espagnol, the foundation of embroidered velvet, with small feathers placed at the side, is also well adapted for a young and graceful woman. For lighter costumes, fitted more for the approaching summer perhaps than the month of April, we may mention the ROBES IN EVENING NEGLIGE.- We may cite among the most distingué, those of India muslin, with a square corsage à l'enfant; it is made low at top, and rounded at bottom, and trimmed with a falling tucker of lace laid on with very little fulness. Manche à la latiere, it is a short full sleeve, negligently looped by a knot of ribbon, or a flower ; these robes rarely have any other trimming than a very broad hem round the border. Muslin and organdy robes, lined with rose or blue silk, are also much in request in evening négligé. Some are made in the pelisse robe style, and trimmed down the front with lace disposed en tablier at the sides, but looped at regular distances, so as to form large scallops, by fancy silk ornaments or knots of ribbon. SUMMER JEWELLERY.-The bijoux most in favor are a gold or jewelled key and smelling-bottle attached at the side of a gold chain. One, two, or even three, fancy bracelets may be worn on the same arm. Brooches are now made much smaller. The fashion of having a portrait in the brooch is no longer adopted, but they are very much worn in bracelets. The Spring and Summer styles of bonnets are now becoming subjects of curiosity. The styles, so far vary, no one being triumphant. We may cite among the most elegant of the new bonnets, those of pea-green pou de soie, shot with white, the exterior trimmed with a wreath composed of green shaded ribbons, arranged in pompons, encircled with velvet foliages ; the pompons were each united by a cordon of foliage, also of velvet. This simple but elegant style of trimming is decidedly the most novel of the month. We may cite also, as exceedingly novel, some morning bonnets of gros de Naples, partially covered with a veil edged with a triple row of blonde, and attached only by a knot of taffetas ribbon. Some bonnets, remarkable for their simply elegant style, are composed of white pou desoie, the exterior trimmed with ribbon, the interior with two camelias of moderate size at each side under the brim. A good many rice straw bonnets are trimmed with wreaths of early flowers.