Page:Peterson's Magazine 1842, Volume I.pdf/83

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66
THE LADY'S
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forming à point. There is also a pretty style of négligé coiffure, composed of lace inlet, divided by a fulling of lace ; a bride of inlet, surrounded with lace, falls on each side : this style of cap softens the countenance very much. The bonnet Montespan is also a pretty little fantasie ; it is formed of plaits superposés in velvet ribbon upon the summit of the head, and coques of satin placed sideways.

TURBANS AND HEAD-DRESSES .-Turbans in muslin, embroidered with silver will be much worn by our young élégantes. The lappets at the side attached with two large roses. We have also remarked several coiffures in lace, satin ribbons, and diamonds. A little coiffure toscane is very becoming, composed of black lace, within the fullings of which are seen coques of scarlet ribbon ; also the coiffure Pompadour, formed in an English fold, over which is scattered des roses mignonnes half closed. The following list of bérets and turbans are those of the last fashion :Le Chapel Jean de Paris, embroidered at the sides with agraffes of brilliants and clusters of white feathers. The Toque Richard Cœur de Lion, turning up in the front, and gently inclining toward the right over the face, where waves three long feathers nearly horizontal ; but the palm is given at the present time to the béret Charles Quint, and also to The Turban Tippoo Saib. This last-named coiffure is composed of a long scarf of gold brocade, upon which sparkles, in the midst of a rich flowering, a shower of rubies ; a long fringe perlée, edged with gold and different colors, terminates the two ends, which reach to the shoulders. The Toque Charles Quint is small, the edges rolled in the style of Francis I., and supported on the right with an aigrette of feathers, attached by an agraffe of | precious stones ; the foundation is in velvet, violet pensée. ROBES DE CHAMBRE.-This most useful and truly elegant wrap, is now being made in cachemires, and les tissus de laine ; they still retain the same form. We cite the following, being the last and newest fashions. One in toile de cachemire, trimmed down the fronts and round the bottom of the jupe with a broad band of lilac plush ; the sleeves made large and in the style à la Marion. Another in foulard, edged with a triple row of fringe of a middling width ; this is a more favorite trimming than lace. And, lastly, one made in poult de❘ soie, with facings of satin down the front of the jupe; corsage coulissé ; the collar square formed by à revers in satin ; sleeves à la religieuse, with facings in satin, finished at the wrist with manchettes of lace falling over the hand. It is necessary with this open style of robe de chambre, that an under-dress should be worn in batiste, embroidered over the hem with a small wreath, and trimmed with a lace posée on the edge of the robe ; corsage in inlet and embroidered cambric. We must

| not omit to mention a style of robe de chambre still more negligé, denominated the peignoir blouse ; it is gathered round the neck into a small collar, which is covered with a bouillon in muslin ; sleeves à la jardinière, plaited into the shoulder. MORNING DRESSES.-The most favorite style is called des redingotes Amazones ; the skirt is ample and long, without ornaments of any kind ; the sleeves plain, and corsage buttoned close up to the throat, finished by a small rounded turn-over collar ; a broad velvet ribbon of a well-assorted color, is worn in lieu of a cravat. We have sometimes seen these dresses trimmed with a triple plait down the front of the jupe, others with a double reverse plaiting, forming à tablier. Another style is made in poult de soie blue, lined with white gros de Naples, the body open à revers to the waist ; sleeves à la religieuse, with sleeves underneath in embroidered cambric, the stomacher fastened by small gold buttons, finished with a small Amazonian collar of embroidered muslin, trimmed with lace. EVENING DRESSES .-Dresses are generally made in the following style :-For light materials the jupe is mostly trimmed with four or five tucks, edged with a narrow lace ; the body low, and draped from the shoulder to the waist ; the sleeves are long and tight, encircled from the wrists to the shoulder with narrow folds on the biais, in muslin, edged with lace, and placed so as nearly to touch each other ; a ceinture is generally worn with this dress composed of ruban de taffetas, having long streamers in the front. We must lastly remark that, for evening and the theatre, dresses are now being made entirely plain, without trimming of any kind ; the corsage is made tight to the figure ; the sleeves large at the top, and bouillonnée from the wrist to the elbow ; a long ceinture, in ruban de taffetas. BALL-DRESSES . Decidedly, the most favorite trimmings for ball-dresses are flowers—for instance, les roses tremeires interspersed with myrtle, forms a very pretty attachés for dresses of tarlatane unie ; also wreaths of very light kind of leaves, divided by the convolvulus and camilla are much worn with the tunic style of dress. There is a very pretty échelle pompadour (intended for the front of a robe de tulle) made in roses pompons, having a very light effect. There is a charming dress in white Pekin à raies, lined with satinée in ponceau, and open on each side of the jupon ; upon this opening is placed a ponceau satin ribbon in a zigzag form attached to the dress on each side, allowing of the inside, which is white satin, to be seen ; this zigzag is terminated at the bottom with two pretty bows. COLORS .-The prevailing colors for the season are grênat, violet, different shades of green, à bois ponceau, bleue Marie, and Tourterelle. MOUCHOIRS.-The Batiste d'ananas is now all the rage in Paris for mouchoirs.