396
FASHIONS
FOR NOVEMBER .
For mantelets, whether they be round or square, they are fastened in the middle of the back to a round waistband, placed underneath, and at the place where they are fastened, one places on the outside a large bunch of loops, either of ribbon, or of the same material as the mantle. Young ladies pass the lappets of their mantelet under the sash in front, and elderly ladies let them fall loose. FOR CIRCULARS, one also fastens the waistband at the back, as we have just explained for the mantles, but on the outside, then one makes a slit quite close to the arm, on each side, one passes the waistband through it so as to make it come underneath, then one cuts fresh slits a little in front of the arms, one passes the band through it again, and fastens it in front ; that part of the mantle which is not fastened down under the waistband on each side, simulates wide flowing sleeves ; one may also omit the last slits and leave the front part of the circular to fall loose. Besides the tight-fitting paletot and the mantelet, some mantles are made very full and ample. The most elegant model of this style is the Metternich, a large circular fitted at the back with a waistband; this waistband, placed upon the mantle, is passed on either side through a slit at the back of the arms, then again passed through other slits in front of the arms, and fastened in front upon the circular. A large bow, with loops and fringed ends, is placed at the waist, in the middle of the back. The sides of the circular, which are not fastened down by the waistband, form ample flowing sleeves. This model is very graceful; we have seen it in handsome faille, trimmed with a ruche of the same material unraveled round the edge to form a narrow fringe, and a rich fringe of knotted silk round the bottom. These fringes, unraveled from the material, are extremely fashionable at present ; they are the latest novelty in the way of trimming. Knotted fringes are likewise in great favor for silk mantles. As for fancy cloaks for the country, they are uniformly white this fall. Red has had its day; it is no longer considered distingue; it is white, trimmed with black, which quite predominates for jackets, circulars, and other models for demi-toilet. Small vareuses of white cloth or cashmere, entirely braided with black, or, better still, embroidered with black silk, are useful and comfortable to complete a somewhat too light toilet, of an evening, when the breeze freshens. THE FANCHON BONNET is almost out of date ; that is, the fanchon proper, for the back of bonnets retain the old shape; but all have diadem fronts, with a good deal of trimming just over the forehead, raised very high. FANCY JEWELRY is now worn more than the more elegant and more expensive styles. Necklaces, consisting of three rows of agate, (striped like a ribbon, ) of lapis, of malachite. of rock crystal, and of white cornelian, are all in high favor, Enameled ornaments are also vastly popular; these represent butterflies and flowers, and are exceedingly pretty, Enamels of bright colors, reminding you of Byzantine ornaments, by reason of their excessive brilliancy, are likewise very fashionable. Lockets are worn larger than ever; those made of filigree gold, of enamel, and of crystal, with the initials in the center, are very fashionable . The most appropriate fans for morning and afternoon use are those made of buff cambric, or plain gros grain to match the dress, mounted in mother-of-pearl. A VERY USEFUL ITEM IN DRESS, which, though not altogether novel, has been by no means very generally adopted hitherto, is a kind of very shallow habit-shirt, perhaps four inches deep, on which collars and ruffs are now made ; they do not fill up the dress in the way the old shape used to do, and yet they serve to keep the collar in its place, without tacking it to the dress. Linen collars and cuffs are gradually giving place to the ruffles, or, at all events, to frills of lace, which are tacked on to the sleeve of the dress. A very pretty set we saw was made of plaits of linen, not
quite half an inch wide, between each of which was a strip of lace insertion, the same width, the whole edged with Valenciennes lace ; they can be easily made, and are most effective. Boors have, in a great measure, given place to very high shoes, with tall, tapering heels, of course, and large rosettes ofblack or colored ribbon, pierced in the center with bright gilt, or steel buckles, or some brooch-shaped ornament. Attempts are being made to introduce shoes with sandals, entwined with endless complications half way up the leg, somewhat after the fashion that obtained at the epoch of the French Directory, when, however, stockings were dispensed with, and the naked flesh was displayed. wwwww CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. FIG. 1.- DRESS FOR A LITTLE BOY.-The jacket and trousers are ofthe Knickerbocker style, and are of dark-gray cloth; gray felt hat. FIG. II.- DRESS of Dark-Blue POPLIN, FOR A GIRL OF FOURTEEN. The under-skirt is of blue poplin, with a deep ruffle; the upper-skirt is made with a Watteau falling from the shoulder, and is of the same material and color as the underskirt, and is trimmed with a narrow ruffle ; the body of the skirt has a square yoke. Gray felt hat, trimmed with blue flowers. FIG. III.- DRESS FOR A YOUNG GIRL -The under-dress is of brown and white striped worsted, and is made plain ; the upper-dress is of brown cashmere, gathered up at the gores with brown gimp, and is made with a low, peasant waist. Brown straw hat, with a small, white aigrette. FIG. IV - A YOUNG GIRL'S DRESS OF GRAY MERINO.-The dress, as well as the upper-skirt, is trimmed with gray plaid silk, cut bias. Gray hat, with bright flowers. FIG. V.-A WHITE ALPACA DRESS FOR A YOUNG GIRL -The under and upper-skirts are trimmed with ruffles of alpaca, headed by a quilling of golden brown silk. There is alarge bow at the back of the silk without ends. Bretelles on the body to correspond with the trimming on the skirt. White hat, with brown gauze veil. FIG. VI - SUIT OF GRAY CASHMERE FOR A LITTLE BOY.-The trousers are made very short and loose ; the jacket is rather full, and belted in at the waist. Both jacket and trousers are trimmed with black braid. FIG. VII.- DRESS OF DARK-BLUE AND WHITE STRIPED POPLIN, FOR A YOUNG LADY. -The upper-skirt is of blue silk, trimmed with broad, white guipure lace and deep blue fringe. The body, sleeves, and sash, are trimmed to corres pond with the skirt. The hair is arranged in the very latest style, having long braids. FIG. VIII - A LITTLE GIRL'S DRESS OF WHITE PIQUE, trimmed with heavy English embroidery, and a deep ruffle at the bottom. Mauve silk sash ; the long hair is crimped and let fall loose, and confined behind with a black velvet bow, GENERAL REMARKS.-We also give several other styles of dresses for children ; first, then, is a dress of blue poplin, made with a tunic cut in points, edged with ruffles of blue silk, and confined by blue bows. The cape is cnt up in the back. There is also a coat of gray cloth, fastening diagonally, and trimmed with black velvet and pearl buttons. Then a walking-dress of buff-colored mohair, trimmed with two gathered flounces round the bottom of the skirt. Metternich mantle of the same material, edged with a flounce to match. Also a dress of brown holland. The under-skirt is trimmed with a flounce of brown and white striped linen. Upper skirt forming an apron in front and pannier behind. Bodice with braces, crossed in front and fastened on each side, ap pear to loop up the second skirt, which is edged, like the braces, with a striped pleated flounce. And a hat of white felt, trimmed with a pleating of silk divided by black velvet, and a tuft offeathers in front.
