478
FASHIONS
FOR DECEMBER .
Then again, stripes are very popular, as well as brocaded materials; but we still prefer the one colored plain silk to any other. If one does not possess a great variety of costumes, one very soon tires of figured materials ; but the latter have the advantage of not showing soils as soon as the more quiet, plain article. Of course, plaids in high colors will always be popular for children, and they are also very useful ; but for older persons, though, plaids are not so much employed. The woolen goods are, many of them, striped in darker shades of the same color, some of the stripes being diagonal, others straight, but scarcely any are crosswise. Mixed woolen goods are very popular for out-ofdoor wear; the style that long ago was called " pepper-andsalt," fine black and white, brown and white, etc., etc. The satin-faced serge, which looks very much like the oldfashioned lasting of which boots were made, comes in all colors, and is remarkably nice for out-of-door costumes. The colors now worn are much gayer and more striking than formerly; bright purples, rich dark greens, and blues, wine-colors of the warmest hues, are all employed, as well as our old favorites the drabs, fawns, grays, and browns. Black must always be very much worn, it is so unobtrusive, and with a change of ribbons at the neck, or flowers on the bonnet, a new effect may always be gained. A black silk, an empress cloth, a cashmere, a satin-faced serge, or even a merino, can always be made to look stylish. WITH REGARD TO THE MAKE OF DRESSES, only slight modifications have taken place. The short dress, or " costume," as it is called, is the only one ever seen on the street now, and for an ordinary house-dress it is a great deal worn. This style is much less elegant than the train-skirt, but certainly much more convenient ; the train-dress is, however, universally worn of an evening, except by quite young ladies. It is most difficult to keep the short dress from looking vulgar and ridiculous, if the fashion is at all exaggerated ; the habit of wearing very small hoops, (or none at all, as some do,) makes it somewhat risky to appear in the large panniers, which some persons exaggerate to a fearful degree. The well-dressed women will wear the under-skirt, not to end at the top of her boots, but as long as she can, so that it does not touch the ground ; she will have it moderately trimmed ; and she will wear the upper-skirt rather long, and looped up so as to forin moderate-sized puffs at the back, or on the hips. No respectable French woman looks like a top, as so many American women do now. DRESSES FOR THE HOUSE have the body cut open, rather low, but narrow in front, and almost quite high at the back and on the shoulders. This is a beautiful style, we think ; and with a black velvet ribbon, with a pendant locket, is becoming to almost all persons. The coat-sleeve, so long popular, is still much worn ; but is frequently replaced now by a sleeve tight to the elbow, and which is trimmed with ruffles ; for a pretty arm this is a desirable change, and much less stiff and more dressy than the coat-sleeve. When the latter is worn, it is finished at the hand by a deep cuff, which turns up and relieves the sleeve of its formal look. FLOUNCES are still popular for house-dresses : one deep one, or many small ones, disposed on the dress, according to the fancy of the wearer. Sometimes they do not cross the front breadth, but run around the back, up each side, narrowing in width as they ascend the skirt ; sometimes they are studdel, or held back by bows of velvet ribbon. In fact, velvet ribbon forms a most popular and stylish trimming, especially for winter. Black, maroon, blue, green, or, in fact, any colored velvet which will contrast favorably with the dress, is elegant ; of course, the waistband and sash must be of the same; the ends of the sash are short, but very wide. Black velvet can be worn with any colored dress, and the lighter the silk, the more effective is the dark sash. SACQUES OR MANTLES are of innumerable varieties. Some are confined closely to the figure some are cut to fall in to it, and others are quite loose ; but these latter are very short,
not reaching much below the waist. One of the most elegant which we have seen is a wide velvet paletot, just reaching the waist, but not cut out to fit the figure, wide Ilungarian sleeves, cut so as to discover the tight sleeves of the bodice beneath. The paletot forms two square ends in front, simi{ lar to the ends of a mantelet. The entire jacket is studded with jet. Some of these new paletots are of cloth, and trimmed with braid only, or with braid and fringe ; others, less heavy, are of cashmere, and richly embroidered in gold; the gold embroidery is very popular, but should be only used for house wear, or some exceptionally dressy occasion. The make of these sacques is so complicated that it is quite impossible to describe all of them. BONNETS, this winter, are marvels of style, or ugliness, just as it happens ; the really stylish bonnets are of most peculiar shape : flat to the head, and then there rises, just back of this flat piece, a high, square coronet; the flat piece is edged with lace ; and at one side of the coronet, is usually placed a beautiful rose, carnation, or any other flower which may be fancied. But after the coronet is got, the bonnet may be trimmed in a variety of ways ; long, flowing plumes are very much worn, and are very graceful ; these are put in on one side, and fall over the hair at the back. There are other very beautiful bonnets, with less exaggerated coronets-in fact, more in the Marie Stuart shape, coming more in a point ; but the trimming is arranged to give them the highest effect. The ugliest articles for the head, which we have ever seen, are things which are neither bonnets nor hats ; they are round, stand half a foot high, and are made of velvet, and are elaborately trimmed with feathers, flowers, and lace. We only mention this as one of the styles, but we are happy to say that it finds but few to patronize it. HATS FOR YOUNG GIRLS are also high, but droop in a point before and at the back, and are trimmed with velvet and } long, floating plumes ; these are stylish, and becoming to most faces. Other hats, not quite so high, are also popular, and are trimmed with stiffer feathers than the former. THE HAIR has undergone quite a change during the autumn ; the high chignons are no longer worn, but simplelooking braids are all the fashion. We say simple-looking, for they are not so in reality. The real “ chatelain braid,” such as was engraved for our November number, must be made ofvery long, even hair; but it may be braided over a "switch," or long " rats;" when this is done, it is easily put on the head, turned up at the sides, and fastened with pins; a small coronet-braid across the front is all that it needs to { finish the head-dress. But this long hair is exceedingly expeusive, and not becoming to every one, so the shorter hair is often used, braided over thick rats, and is as ready to pin on as the old-fashioned chignon. Still this latter plan is not as fashionable as the former-is not, in other words, regarded as so stylish.
CHILDREN'S FASHIONS. FIG. 1.- GIRL'S SUIT OF WHITE CASHMERE ; skirt plain ; coat loose, edged with swansdown. Hat to match. FIG. II. GIRL'S SUIT OF CASHMERE, with overdress of darkblue, edged with fur. Hat of felt, with plume. FIG. III -YOUNG MISS' SKIRT OF SILK, with overdress of blue velveteen, looped on the shoulders with bows and ends of ribbon. Hat of velveteen, with ostrich feather. FIG. IV. YOUNG MISS' SUIT OF BLACK VELVETEEN, edged with satin. Leggins and hat ofthe same. FIG. V. GIRL'S CASHMERE SUIT, with squirrel-tippet. Hat with rolling brim. FIG. VI.—LITTLE BOY'S SUIT, made of cashmere, with heavy embroidery. Turban hat. FIG. VII.-GIRL'S CLOTH SUIT.-Skirt plain. Cloak with wide sleeves, and hood ; Persian trimming. Balmoral stockings.
