?The separation of these jellies is an operation of cookery, and one that deserves more attention than it receives. I shall never forget the rahat lakoum which I once had the privilege of eating in the kitchen of the seraglio of Stamboul, in the absence at the summer palace of the sultana and the other ladies for whom it was prepared. Its basis was the pure pectose of many fruits, the inspissated juices of grapes, peaches, pineapples, and I know not what others. The sherbet was similar, but liquid. Well may they obey the Prophet and abstain from the grosser concoctions that we call wine when such ambrosial nectar as this is supplied in its place! It is to imperial tokay as tokay is to table-beer!
The "lumps of delight" sold by our confectioners are imitations made of flavored gelatine. Similar substitutes are sold in Constantinople. The same as regards the sherbet.
I conclude this part of my subject by re-echoing Mr. Gladstone's advocacy of the extension of fruit-culture. We shamefully neglect the best of all food, in eating and drinking so little fruit. As regards cooked fruit, I say jam for the million, jelly for the luxurious, and juice for all. With these in abundance, the abolition of alcohol will follow as a necessary result of natural nausea.
XXXVII. COUNT RUMFORD AND THE BAVARIAN BEGGARS.
I must not leave the subject of vegetable cookery without describing Count Rumford's achievements in feeding the paupers, rogues, and vagabonds of Munich. An account of this is the more desirable, from the fact that the "soup" which formed the basis of his dietary is still misunderstood in this country, for reasons that I shall presently state.
After reorganizing the Bavarian army, not only as regards military discipline, but in the feeding, clothing, education, and useful employment of the men, in order to make them good citizens as well as good soldiers, he attacked a still more difficult problem—that of removing from Bavaria the scandal and burden of the hordes of beggars and thieves which had become intolerable. He tells us that "the number of itinerant beggars of both sexes, and all ages, as well foreigners as natives, who strolled about the country in all directions, levying contributions from the industrious inhabitants, stealing and robbing, and leading a life of indolence and most shameless debauchery, was quite incredible"; and further, that "these detestable vermin swarmed everywhere, and not only their impudence and clamorous importunity were without any bounds, but they had recourse to the most diabolical acts, and most horrid crimes, in the prosecution of their infamous trade. Young children were stolen from their parents by these wretches, and their eyes put out, or their tender limbs broken and distorted, in order, by exposing them thus maimed, to excite the pity and commiseration of the public." He gives further particulars of their trading upon the misery of their own children, and their organization to obtain
