Too much fusel-oil is even more destructive of quality than none at all, and produces a crudeness and roughness which no lapse of time can remove. There is plenty of whisky made with just these characteristics, but not even by courtesy can it be called good; some of it, indeed, is so bad that, after a very limited time, it grows worse instead of better; such a result can come only from the carelessness or incompetence of the manufacturer, or from lack of suitable apparatus.
The great aim of the intelligent distiller is, first, to prevent excessive development of fusel-oil; and, secondly, to so arrange the details of his distillation that just the proper quantity shall appear in his distillate, and in the proper proportions. Theoretically its constituents should be possible of removal from the ethyl alcohol by ordinary distillation, in consequence of their higher boiling-points. In fact, however, certain portions are carried over mechanically at lower temperatures, and it is this fact which makes it possible, by the shape, arrangement, and manipulation of the distilling apparatus, to so control the process that, practically, none of the constituents of the fusel-oil shall be in injurious excess or deficiency, but all harmoniously proportioned to further the development of the aging-process. This partial control, however, does not relieve the fine-whisky distiller from the necessity of close attention to the preliminary steps. Good grain is absolutely necessary for the production of good whisky. Good water, scrupulous attention to cleanliness, and the most careful personal supervision, guided by long experience, are equally imperative; for, unlike the rectifier, he has no universal remedy after distillation for all defects. His product, once imperfect, must either remain so, or, by rectification, lose its character altogether.
Mr.Dawson says, either directly or by implication, that most good whisky-distillers either rectify their product themselves or that it is done in a rectifying-house. Such a gross mistake could only come from want of discrimination between the distinctive characteristics of fine whisky and rectified spirit, the former being either excluded entirely from his consideration, or else confounded with the lower grade of goods. As a matter of fact, no fine whisky is ever rectified, and from the previous description it is easily seen why such treatment is not only unnecessary, but would be positively destructive to its proper development. Neither is it ever offered for sale as one-stamp goods; why, will be easily understood when it is known that the best brands of fine whisky are worth, when new and in bond, from two to three times as much as one-stamp or rectified goods, the disparity in value increasing with age.
Explanation of the cause removes the mystery; and to the judgment of the reader, in view of the facts set forth, I leave the consideration of the propriety of using one-stamp alcoholic spirit twelve months old.
