high, but not specially prominent; the nose is usually large, and, in the men, oftentimes indicates a strength of will which is not confirmed by the character of the people; the forehead is high and broad, sometimes overhanging to such a degree as to intensify the apparent lowness of the base and bridge of the nose, and I think this fact has led most observers to overlook a certain shapeliness of that member. The faces of the men impress one with their appearance of dignity, the long hair and the flowing beard giving them a truly patriarchal look. When in repose the face is apt to have an appearance of sadness, for the eyes—except when hunting or aroused by some momentary excitement—are rather dull and expressionless. This appearance of sadness is particularly noticeable in the younger people and children, but it is very evanescent, and disappears instantly when anything is said or done in the least likely to provoke a laugh; then the face breaks into smiles, and presents a singularly attractive aspect. Though naturally as shy as a young fawn, even the little children will respond with a laugh to a kind word and smile from a foreigner. I do not understand their language at all, and therefore can not speak authoritatively, but I do not think that I was ever called by foul names in an Ainu village. One can usually tell by the tone and manner, and the reception of the insult by others, whether or not opprobrium is being shouted after one. I can not say the same of all the Japanese places I have visited.
The robustness and general physique of the Ainu may be due to the fact that—so far as known—they have always eaten meat freely; whereas their neighbors and conquerors, the Japanese, have been practically vegetarians for many centuries—fish, a little fowl, and rarely a bit of game, not being a sufficient compensation for the absence of solid flesh from their regular diet.
No exact idea of the shape of the Ainu men's heads can be formed from their appearance, for the hair forms a heavy shock, standing out all around; but when the women's hair is dressed, their heads seem to be rather small and shapely, and well set on necks which are often long and graceful.
The women certainly have larger hips than the Japanese women. This may be due to their never having used the tight dresses, with the strong under-bands and enormous belts (obi) which are swathed around the Japanese girl when she is yet very young. In freedom of motion, in elasticity of gait, and in grace of carriage, the Ainu woman, with all her dirt and rags, is in pleasing contrast to the awkwardness of her Japanese sister in purple and fine linen!
Almost the first thing to attract the attention of a stranger visiting an Ainu village is the tattooing around the mouth of