X ½in., in position, with its upper edge just under these screws, locate the two points for its pivoting screws. This is clearly shown in the illustration. The pivoting screws will work more easily if the holes are first made with a slightly larger screw. The back screws hold the shelf in a horizontal position when it is being used. At other times, it can be raised to a vertical position between the posts.
The top and bottom pieces on the right side have the same location as those on the left. The second cross-piece is 10 ins. from the tops of the posts. Just under it is attached the piece 12¼ x 3¼ x ¼. This piece does not need to be nailed ; glue will answer. Attached to its under edge and projecting forward horizontally, is the narrow strip, 12¼ x ¾, -x. ¼. Attached to the front edge of this piece, and slanting forward oblique- ly, as shown in the illustration, is the piece, 12¼ x 1¾ x ¼- These three pieces should be nailed to one another with two or three fine wire nails, which can be readily concealed.
The third cross-piece on the right is 18½ ins. and the fourth piece 27 ins. respectively, measured from the tops of the posts. Before joining them to the uprights, they should be fitted with brass pins, as shown. The top piece should be provided with hooks.
Before proceeding further, the various parts should be varnished, stained or painted, according to individual taste. If the screen is to be used in a bedroom having white woodwork, white enamel may be used to advantage. If the wood- work is mahogany or oak, the screen can be finished to match. After the parts are thoroughly dry, the leather or other covering is put on. If leather is used, it should match not only the finish of the screen, but the color scheme of the room. If white enamel is used, a pretty chintz pattern is very effective as a covering, or silk may be used. In putting on the leather or chintz, be careful to stretch it tightly over the frame, gradually pro- ceeding from top lo bottom, inserting the tacks on both sides simultaneously. The edges should be foldid in about K in.; and the tacks should be driven into the middle of the frame. If silk is used, it may be shirred on a cord at the top and bottom, instead of being tacked. The two inside strips which form the pockets at the bottoms are attached by turning in their edges and tacking on the inside. The measurements given are large enough to allow for folding in the upper edges several inches.
Lastly, fasten two small brass hinges on the back, 7½ ins. from the top and bottom, respectively. On the front, attach a hook and eyebolt, 18½ ins. from the top, for holding the two parts of the screen together when not in use. On the top cross-pieces fasten two brass han- dles, as shown. They should be near the front inner edge of the frame, so that they will come together when the screen is closed.
Fitting Windows With Weights
IN the illustration is shown the way in which seventy-five windows in a factory building were fitted with sash cords, pulleys and weights. The method is simple, inexpensive, neat and the pul- leys and weights are out of the waj'. The upper end of the window frame is cut away at an angle as shown, just enough to make a seat for the pulley. This brings the weight in the corner at the inside edge of the window frame and against the building wall. The other end of the rope is fastened to a screw-eye in the top of the window sash. These weights, when out of order can be repaired by anyone. — M. E. Duggan.
How to Remove Iodine Stains
The dark brown stains caused by iodine are unaffected by soap or other cleaning substance. To remove, let the article soak over night in starchy water, which will remove all trace of the stain.—R. L. Bird.
