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��Popular Science Montlily
��against the gage drawing line; then hold the frame firmly with one hand and with the other slide the angle to the right. Con- tinue this process by first moving the frame, then the triangle, for consecutive spacing. To make alternate spaces of a different width the slide C is used. To operate this slide place one finger on it and move the frame to the right until the gage is struck; then release the slide and it will be drawn back by the rubber band in the slot D. This operation is repeated as the lines are drawn. — R. B. Boyd.
��Making a Mahogany Case for a Grandfather's Clock
A MOST appreciated piece of furniture is a grandfather's clock; and to make one with your own hands adds much to its value. The design given is very appropri- ate, but it may be altered to suit particular needs and to fit a nook most suitable for it. The works for^uch a clock can be purchased at a nominal price. Any wood may be used in the construction of the case — mahogany or oak being preferable.
For a clock about 7 ft. high, follow the dimensions as given in the illustration. The cross-section A- A shows how the waist sides and pilasters are joined and glued together. Another cross-section is shown at B-B. The lower front rail is fastened to
���Dimensions of the clock case and cross- sections showing the manner of joining
the sides with two dowels at each end and a screw is turned in between the dowels to draw the rail up to the pilaster.
��The baseboard is molded on its upper edge and scalloped on the lower part. These pieces are fastened to the sides with glue and screws. To obtain a neat fit the front is first mitered and fastened in place, then the sides are fitted to the miter of the first piece. The bottom, which can be made of poplar, is screwed in place to help strengthen the base. A strip is temporarily fastened with screws across the top and on the inside of the pilasters to hold the sides together while the hood is being fastened in place.
The hood-front is made up of two pieces, the outside stock being the same as that used for the clock, and the inside of poplar. Miter the front piece and glue on the second. Miter and fit the hood-returns. Rabbet out the top and back edges for the top and back to set in. Lay off the circles and cut with a band saw to the line, and smooth with a sharp spoke shave.
Care should be taken in clamping the hood-returns to the front not to draw them too hard on the clamp as the circle may be contracted and held there after the glue has hardened. Size all miter joints before gluing. The hood or arch molding is laid out on a piece of board 24 in. long, 8 in. wide and i3^ in. thick. The mold is cut at a mill. Care should be taken to have every- thing square and all joints tight, as any imperfections will show up badly. All joints in the doors should be strongly mortised; but the tenons should not pass through the stiles. The arch rail should be cut at a mill.
When gluing and clamping the door, place it on a level surface to avoid a twist and be sure that it is square. The door sets back from the pilasters ^ in. and three extra wide hinges should be used to swing it clear of the hood and pilasters. Rabbeted strips are fastened with screws on the inside of the pilasters for the door-stop. Two of these are fastened on the sides and one across the bottom. Two others on the sides extend from the center rail up, for the dial frame to rest against. The dial frame is for holding the dial. It should fit the hood and sides neatly. The joints should be strongly mortised. The back may be made of poplar either paneled or in one piece.
The finishing and staining are accom- plished the same as for any other home- made piece of furniture. It is always necessary to have a smooth surface on all the pieces for any kind of finish.
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