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at the waist so produced being drawn in with a cord and tassel through a hem at the top. Having out the top and underside pattern in this manner. it will be easy to lay it on the materiel with the sideseam joining as if it were one. The seams are generally sewn and felled over in the some way as usually done for a shirt, and the front is left open about nine or ten inches from the top, say to just below S, diagram 77. It the knees are required smaller, the only plan will be to reduce them at legseam, unless there ls a sideseam, when the usual method may be followed.
The Jacket.
Dia. 78. Fig. 39.
The various points for this ore formed in the some manner laid down for the Lounge. but as they are usually out with a whole back, nothing is taken out at the hollow of waist; the sideseam is also drawn straight, and the forepart made to overlap the buck 1⁄2 to 11⁄2 inches, according to the amount of ease desired. They are usually made to button down the front, and a breast pocket is often added. The collar is of the stand type, made to the size of neck. The sleeves are made quite plain, and may be cut in the same way as shown in diagram 9; the only variation that may be made is to increase the size of elbow slightly. The style of trimming illustrated by our diagram is also a very popular one, and shows cords placed double across the breast, and finished at the end with a crow's foot, left long enough on the one side to loop over button on the other. The seams are finished in the some manner as described for the trousers. These garments undoubtedly originated in those tropical climates where it is a necessity to cover every part of the body before retiring to rest, owing to the large number of insects which abound, and whose bite or sting is very irritating. In India, we are informed, the mosquito is a very troublesome pest in this way, and we have had customers who, having spent several year: of their life in those parts, declare they would on no account retire to rest without their Pyjamas. In those countries they are generally made with feet, diagrams for producing which will be found in the Federation Prize Essay. The cheaper way of procuring Pyjama is, of course, to get them ready- made. Most. if not all, of the respectable whole- sale hosiers supply them at prices ranging from about 6s. 6d. the suit upwards. However, there are many occasions when it is necessary to make to order, and thus our reason for giving details of cutting, &c.
Jockey Suit.
Fig.40.
The details of this will be easily gathered from figure, the jacket in cut as a small pyjama, and the breaches as coachmen's.
Spats, or Short Gaiters.
Dia. 79.
These articles are much patronised by young gentlemen. and although some consider they have a rather foppish appearance, yet they are very comfortable, keeping the feet very warm. If the quantities marked in the diagram are used by the inch tape a normal size will be produced, and if desired larger or smaller use of graduated tape to reduce or enlarge them. They are generally made from drab Devon, the edges double stitched, and the reams stitched on either side, five or six buttons at the side, or they may be brought forward to follow the shape of front. It will readily be under- stood they consist of three pieces, one the full size of diagram. another as outlined by 3, 61⁄2, 61⁄2,9,3, and another by 3, 0, 3⁄8, 7,1⁄2, 3, with a button stand of from 3⁄4 of an inch added. The simplest way of varying the size is to add to or take away from the back 1⁄2 an inch, as that will make a great deal of difference, quite as much as will be needed in ordinary practice.
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