276
��African Notes.
��session of the gold coast, with head- quarters at Delmina (Elmina), nine miles from the now flourishing Eng- lish port of entry, Cape Coast Castle. They built Fort Delmina and flung out the flag of Portugal, but in 1491 the Dutch came in, landing above them, fortified the elevated ground on the landward side, dubbed the fort St. Jago, and with the conclusive argument of heavier round shot re- minded the Portuguese of the transi- tory nature of things, so that the Latin gathered himself up with alacrity and hied him beyond the equator.
The Dutch held possession until 1872, when all their possessions on the Gold coast were transferred to Great Britain. This old town in its palmy days was the pride of its pos- sessors. Paved streets, turnpiked roads, long rows of quite imposing residences and warehouses, gave an air of dignity to the town, and inspired the traveller with a feeling of home, when, worn down by weeks of travel through sand and jungle, he came in view of the whitewashed town nestling down on the verge of its surf-fretted beach.* The Dutch are good colo- nizers. They do not insist that seal- skin overcoats shall be worn in Africa because they do it in " our country, you know." They adapt themselves to the environment, and their African towns are composite in architecture — half Ham, half Hamburg — and so are the inhabitants.
But the glory of the old town passed when the royal ensign of Portugal was lowered. The colonial policy of Eng- land is felt here in all its selfishness. " Millions for the Bank of-P2ngland,
- The a\itluir's notes were made in 187", while
travelling iu Africa.
��but not a penny for colonial improve- ment," is the motto of the home gov- ernment. The streets are going to decay, the grass and jungle cactus are creeping into the formerly well kept turnpike from Elmina to Cape Coast Castle, and the old resident feels that his home is being dismantled for the aggrandizement of Cape Coast and Accra. The governor resides at the latter town, while Cape Coast rejoices in a fortified castle, a black regiment, and a staff of English officers who curse the " beastly coast," do their duty like Englishmen, stay two years and are relieved, or stay longer and are gathered into the inclosure ren- dered sacred by a few white slabs that mark the resting-place of such Eng- lish and Americans as have succumbed to the deadly climate.
A description of one town on the coast, with a few corrections, will an- swer for all. Cape Coast, viewed from the sea or land approaches, pre- sents a picture of beauty. The blend- ing of brown, white, and green is unique and satisfying. Entering the town from either side, the illusion is dispelled. Let us open it up from the landward side. We will leave Elmina at 5 A. M., by the trans-continental African coach. Said coach is a ham- mock carried on the heads of four stalwart Fantee savages. A fancy canopy serves as an awning, and, bol- stered half upright by pillows, fanned by the sea breeze that tempers the sultry air, we enjoy a ride that is truly delicious. Four miles an hour is reg- ular score. As we leave Elmina, the road is lined by a lavish growth of giant cactus, fifteen feet high, in full bloom ; soon it breaks, and the bush jungle comes up to the roadside. Here
�� �
