chiefs, Moollahs, and Oolema; as well as the immense crowd of merchants and tradesmen who had met together, clad in their gaudy oriental apparel, to greet the new comer, made the spectacle at once gay and attractive. A troop of Albanians in their rich dresses, and a company of Turkish infantry were drawn up to salute his Excellency as he passed, whilst two cannon kept up a constant fire in honour of the event. But amidst all this pageantry, one could not help reflecting how much misery this new appointment had already occasioned, and how much it was still destined to occasion to the unfortunate subjects. At whatever town or village a Pasha and his suite, (in this instance it consisted of three hundred mounted followers), put up during their journey, the poor inhabitants are obliged to supply all their wants gratuitously, and not unfrequently get abuse and stripes into the bargain. This is the third appointment to the pashalic of Kharpoot during the current year; and as every new governor generally attains to office by a large bribe, he naturally seeks to make good his advance with interest during his uncertain continuance in office; and to come at this, the poor subjects are ground to the dust by the fresh exactions of each succeeding tyrant who is sent to rule over them. They may talk of the Hatti Shereef, that vain chapter of privileges, in London or Paris, and praise the toleration and justice which it awards to all classes of the Sultan's subjects; but beyond the immediate eye of the ambassadors, this far-famed Magna Charta is no better than a mockery.
Four hours after leaving Mezraa, we reached the small Mohammedan town of Moollah-kieui, where we found it difficult to obtain shelter, as every house was occupied by Albanian troops.
Oct. 21st.—Left Moollah-kieui at 4 a.m., and after ascending the rugged hills beyond, we came in sight of the Geoljik Barmaz Ovasi lake, just as the sun rose from behind the mighty Taurus, shedding a grandeur over the mountain scene which no language can adequately describe. The lake, which appeared to be about twelve miles long and five wide, is hemmed in by gigantic rocks, and presents the appearance of a huge basin. After crossing its northern extremity, we entered the Anti-Taurus, and having forded one of the sources of the Tigris, we
