CHAPTER I
MAʻÂN
DAMASCUS TO MAʻÂN
In the middle of March, 1910, I was invited, at the suggestion of Dr. Mark Kaller, to Constantinople, where I entered into negotiations with the Turkish Government and the Board of Health regarding a journey of exploration in the northern Ḥeǧâz. The Board of Health was desirous of discovering by what routes pilgrims were evading the quarantine station at Tebûk, the methods by which this evasion could be checked, and whether this center could or could not be transferred. Ṭalʻat Bey, the Minister of the Interior, wished to learn the political attitude of the tribal chiefs in this region, and he also desired to know in what localities settlements could be developed. He promised me every assistance and said that he would send special instructions to the Governor General at Damascus, who at that time was Ismâʻîl Fâḍel Pasha. Assuming that Ṭalʻat Bey would fulfill his promise and that I should be able to work unrestrictedly, I took with me Dr. Leopold Kober, of the Geological Institute of the University of Vienna, and my valued assistant Rudolf Thomasberger of the Military Geographical Institute. Leaving Vienna on April 21, we proceeded via Trieste to Alexandria, Beirut, and Damascus, where we made preparations for our journey.
When we reached Damascus we found that Ismâʻîl Fâḍel Pasha was inspecting the extensive area under his administration and that he was not expected to return for several weeks. His deputy knew nothing about the promise made by Ṭalʻat Bey concerning special instructions and maintained an attitude of complete passivity. After two weeks, however, he informed me that he had received word from Constantinople that I might proceed to the Ḥeǧâz, but only by railway, and that I must not alight at any intermediate stations. This was at variance with the promises I had been given in Constantinople; but I thought that Ismâʻîl Fâḍel Pasha would act on my behalf when he returned to Damascus or when I applied to him by letter or telegram for assistance.
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