Having watered our camels, at 9.20 we rode on, because we found no pasture in the neighborhood. About four kilometers to the west, in the river bed of al-Aḫẓar, are several springs, near which it is said that the ruins of small ancient buildings and garden walls may be seen. Having discovered pasture, we allowed the camels to rest from 9.45 to 11.35, while Tûmân and I mounted the western slope and drew a sketch of the surrounding district. On our return we were informed by Šerîf that the camel carrying the water would not graze any more and that it remained kneeling. Two other animals did the same. A gendarme who came to us from al-Aḫẓar explained that they had received orders to search for me and to compel me to return to Tebûk. It was fortunate for us that in consequence of the threatened raid by the Âjde against the Beni ʻAṭijje, none of the latter had recently come to the fortress of al-Aḫẓar or discovered that the gendarmes were to search for me. This news would have spread throughout the camps of the Beni ʻAṭijje, who would certainly have robbed us before we could get away from their territory.
At 11.50 we heard a piercing shout and immediately afterwards the sound of a shot. On the western foot of the
Al-Bekri, op. cit., p. 79, states that al-Aḫḍar is four days’ march distant from Tebûk and contains a mosque of the Prophet. As it is not quite seventy kilometers from Tebûk to al-Aḫẓar, the statement of al-Bekri is not correct.
Jâḳût, Muʻǧam (Wüstenfeld), Vol. 1, p. 164. writes that the pilgrims’ halting place of al-Aḫḍar is situated near Tebûk in the direction of the valley of al-Ḳura’ and that in the mosque there a spot is pointed out upon which the Prophet prayed on his expedition to Tebûk.According to Ḥaǧǧi Ḫalfa, Ǧihân numa’ (Constantinople. 1145 A. H.), p. 523, the well and stronghold of al-Uḫajḍer were constructed at the beginning of the reign of Sultan Suleiman under the supervision of the Syrian Governor Mustapha Pasha, the building having been carried out by Ṭurbân ibn Farrâǧ, the chief of the Syrian al-Ḥâreṯa. There were twenty soldiers from Damascus guarding this important and frequently visited station among the mountains between Damascus and Mecca. It was harassed by the unruly tribes of the Beni Lâm and Beni ʻOḳba. They clogged up the well and emptied the three reservoirs in front of the gateway. It was likewise the custom of the Beni Lâm to barricade with boulders the pass Naḳb al-Uḫajḍer, not far off.According to Meḥmed Edîb, Menâzil (Constantinople, 1232 A. H.), pp. 75 f., the station of al-Uḫajḍer is also known as al-Ḥajdar. It is twelve hours distant from Moṛâjer, is one of the Prophet’s camps, and contains a mosque. During the reign of Suleiman Khan a stronghold and five reservoirs were built there. In the stronghold is a large well, from which is obtained water with which the reservoirs are filled. The water from this well is so very pleasant to the taste that many pilgrims carry it several halting places farther on. There is a tradition that Job washed in during which process the worms fell from his body and were turned to stone, so that it was possible to collect them. The Prophet Ḫiḍr is reputed to have dwelt there. In the stronghold is the grave of Ḥajdar Baba, to which pilgrimages are made. There are twenty Syrian soldiers guarding the fortress, which was built during the reign of the above-mentioned Sultan in 938 A.H. (1531–1532 A. D.) by Ṭurbân ibn Farrâǧ, the Prince of the Arabs al-Ḥâreṯa, at the command of the Syrian Governor Mustapha Pasha and the Sultan already named, because the Beni Lâm rebelled against the soldiers and clogged up the well. Opposite the stronghold rises a tower, and on all four sides there are high mountains. Part of the region is stony, part flat and sandy. The pass Naḳb al-Uḫajḍer (not ṯaḳab, as printed) is situated here. The water carriers near it give “sherbet” (lemonade) to the pilgrims. The tribes of the Beni Lâm encamp here and often barricade this pass. The station of al-Uḫajḍer is situated half-way between Damascus and Mecca the Sublime. In the region from which Birket al-Muʻaẓẓame may be reached, is situated the spot well known as the Gardens of the Ḳâḍi. Beyond the defile of al-Uḫajḍer there opens out an extensive plain, on which may be seen here and there snow-white sand drifts.