Page:The Prose Works of Percy Bysshe Shelley (Volume 2).djvu/164

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150
history of a six weeks' tour, &c.

bateau, qui etoit seulement renversèe, et tous les peuples sont seulement noyès.

Mayence is one of the best fortified towns in Germany. The river, which is 1 p.m.,
3 Sept., 1814.
broad and rapid, guards it to the east, and the hills for three leagues around exhibit signs of fortifications. The town itself is old, the streets narrow, and the houses high: the cathedral and towers of the town still bear marks of the bombardment which took place in the revolutionary war.

We took our place in the diligence par-eau for Cologne, and the next morning 4 Sept., 1814.(September 4th) departed. This conveyance appeared much more like a mercantile English affair than any we had before seen; it was shaped like a steam-boat, with a cabin and a high deck. Most of our companions chose to remain in the cabin; this was fortunate for us, since nothing could be more horribly disgusting than the lower order of smoking, drinking Germans who travelled with us; they swaggered and talked,[1] and what was hideous to English eyes, kissed one another: there were, however, two or three merchants of a better class, who appeared well-informed and polite.

The part of the Rhine down which we now glided, is that so beautifully described by Lord Byron in his third canto of Childe Harold. We read these verses with delight, as they conjured before us these lovely scenes with the truth and vividness of painting, and with the exquisite addition of glowing language and a warm

  1. In the Essays &c. (1840) Mrs. Shelley here inserts and got tipsy.