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wishes, for we must remember we are making the garment for them, and as it must always he our aim to please them, we should lay ourselves out to understand what they wish; and though customers will sometimes ask for garments quite unsuitable to their form, still, if they have fully made up their minds, the best course for us to adopt will be to modify the style in such a way as to make it as far as possible in harmony with the figure. It is in this way the tailor with taste and artistic talent shows his skill, in sending forth his customers in becoming garments. When they come to him with their minds fixed on a certain style, if it is unsuitable they can modify it by the material and trimming; or, if they have decided on material, he can reduce the unbecoming nature of the pattern by the infusion of a style having an opposite tendency. The styles we have selected to illustrate the varieties of Ladies' Ulsters are
The Loose-fronted D.B.,
Diagram 38. Plate 19: Figure 31, Plate 20,
And the Cross-over Front. The former is very popular just at present, and as we pointed out in dealing with Ladies' Jackets, the front must be straight, that is, the hi east line, but as the Costume Skirts are worn so close-fitting at present, and ladies' breasts being invariably more prominent than their stomachs, we have left a little curve just at the top from 20½ to V, owing to the difficulty experienced in avoiding superfluous material on the stomach (see diagram); but, wherever possible, this round should be drawn in, and the fulness well pressed back on to the breast. To accomplish this, it will be advisable to take out a V at the top of the breast line, and cut the lapel a trifle short. But when the garment is intended to turn high up, it will be better to omit the V, the tendency of which is to shorten the outside edge. As will be noticed, the fish is omitted from the forepart at waist. But when it is desired to have the garment very close-fitting at the sides, a fish is taken out as per dotted lines; and when dealing with a figure with prominent breasts, it will be very advantageous in providing extra room at that part. We should, however, advise this to be left till the trying on, as it does not suit all types alike. Then the one side can be pinned up on the figure, and judgment brought to bear as to which produces the effect desired in the best way, and arrange accordingly.
The Cross-over Front,
Diagram 39, Plate 19; Figure 32, Plate 20,
Is a style which seems more than likely to become a prominent feature in fashionable Ulsters. When trimmed with fur, as shown on our illustration, it is very effective. The diagram is self-explanatory in this case, and shows how the overlapping part is added on; and though these garments are generally made close-fitting, still a moderate looseness at the waist rather adds to than detracts from their beauty. The under forepart is generally cut to the breast line only, and a series of hooks and eyes put down to fasten it at that part, so that an ornamental clasp or button at the side will be quite sufficient to fasten it. This will be readily understood by a reference to the figure and diagram. We will now direct attention to the
Variations in the Back, Diagram 37,
Necessary for Dolmans and Winged Cloaks. As they will form the subject of another section, a reference to diagram 37 will show the plan adopted, viz., continuing the sideseam right through to the scye point of shoulder of back, which part is added to the sidebody when sleeves are worn under the wing, but more frequently the forepart and sidebody are cut away at the scye, when all that is necessary will be to make a mark on the back where the sidebody is to begin, in order to retain the balance. This, however, is a feature which more correctly comes within the scope of the section on Dolmans, though of course that is no reason why, if customers so desired it, the sideseam should not terminate at the point of, or half way across, the shoulder seam; indeed, this feature was very prominently brought out in the fashions of a few years ago, and may be revived at any time.
There are doubtless many other variations we might dwell on in reference to ladies' Ulsters, but we will conclude this section by a few remarks on
Newmarket Ulsters
In their various styles of S.B. and D.B., as they are so very popular at present. These are cut on exactly the same lines as laid down for Newmarket Jackets, and which our readers will find fully described in the section treating of Jackets. All that requires to be done is to extend the skirt to the length desired. It will always be well for the cutter to bear in mind that the ladies' Ulster does not bear the same relation to the ladies' Jacket, that the Chesterfield does to the Lounge for gentlemen; on the contrary, the ladies' Ulster is in reality nothing more than a very long Jacket, preferably cut a trifle easier on account of it being often made from thicker material and being more used in Winter when thicker underclothing is being worn.
We must now turn our attention to sleeves, as they play such an important part in Dolman cutting; and before we proceed to describe the method of producing them we must fully explain the sleeve problem.
