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round as per dot and dash line, to a level of the waist, and continue the run of sleeve head from D to V; the width of sleeve hand is a matter of taste, and the run of the underside sleeve from D to E is arranged to agree with the scye of forepart and the bottom from A to C cut as much short as the topside is cut too long. If it is desired to carry the forearm seam out of sight at D, see instruction for diagram 54. These have a very stylish appearance when in the garment, but the one great drawback is the inability to raise the arm, the sleeve being secured to the sideseam.
A Sleeve Wing. Diagram 58.
The variety of ways in which this combination of parts can be applied is unlimited; diagram 58 illustrates the sleeve and sidebody only, grown together; and the same instructions we have given for the other diagrams will apply to this. Put the sidebody to the hindarm pitch of sleeve; arrange the amount of drapery between hindarm of sleeve and front of side-body, usually about 3 inches: adjust the length to customer's ideas, and the cutting is complete. In making, it is sewn in with the sideseam and sleeve head from F D to W.
Diagram 59
Illustrates still another style, this has the back and sleeve grown together, and has a very stylish appearance when on. To cut this, put the hind arm of sleeve to the hindarm pitch, arrange the space from B to C by about 3 inches more than the width of the sidebody; more or less in accordance with the amount of drapery desired. In making, this is sewn in with the sleeve head, the shoulder seams and back neck; the back seam being preferably sewn separate, as it would give it a freer appearance.
Doubtless there are many other styles of Dolman sleeves, capes and wings, but the cutter who has the least inventive genius will readily be able to produce any design he sees, if he once grasps and puts into practice the principles we have laid down, one of the most important of which is, that what is lost at one part is made up on another by a sort of give and take arrangement, whilst another important feature is to retain the balance.
Dolmans and Cloaks are so very closely allied, that it is sometimes difficult to tell to which style a particular garment may belong; so we deal with them both in this section, and now proceed to treat of
Cloaks.
One of the most popular garments of this season will the Yoked Cape, illustrated on Diagrams 60 and 61, Plate 27. Figure 37, Plate 28. In cutting these, it is far more a question of the infusion of style and ease than fit, consequently a reliable Block Pattern forms the best basis of operation.
Diagram 60
Shows how the yoke is cut: the back and forepart are placed with the shoulder seams together, and when in that position mark those parts outlined by W, 0, 1, 2, V, comprising the back, gorge, and front: and now comes the part where all the taste may be displayed for certainly the outline of the bottom part and the length allows ample scope for the designer's skill. Some make them very pointed and to reach down to the waist, as illustrated on figure 37: others keep them short and round both back and front, whilst others give extra length to the front, consequently we cannot lay down any definite rule in this direction. In the style illustrated on diagram 60, the yoke is made pointed back and front, starting at the depth of scye on the back at W to shoulder point D of back, and then from the corresponding point of front shoulder to the depth of scye line of forepart V. These are generally cut without a shoulder seam, but if any improvement can be made in the run of the pattern or for any other purpose, we see no reason why a shoulder seam should not be introduced. These yokes are very frequently made either of velvet or else ornamented very richly with braid, and there can be no doubt they make a very stylish feature in these garments, which combine a taking style with all the comforts of the more "grand-motherly" sort.
The Bodypart, Diagram 61,
Is merely a straight piece of material with the top part rounded so as to adjust it to the yokes. The width from W to V depends to a large extent on the substance of the material: to infuse the same appearance of fulness in a garment made of thin material, these must be cut much wider than would be necessary for a cloth for which we should advise W to V to be about 36 to 40 inches. The same width is generally retained to the bottom, though in the event of a very thick material being used, it would be as well to slope both back and front a little, in which case the distance from W to V may be considerably reduced. The adjustment of length, diagram 61, is often a puzzling detail in these garments, but it is really a very simple matter. Draw line W V, and place the back on this line with the depth of scye line resting on it; then take the forepart and repeat the same operation. Now draw a line from the two shoulder points D and F, and at * (which is midway between D and F) make the top
