Book XVIII.
Syria.
Sect. I.
Marhash.—Osman Dada.—Borge.—Account of Metrophanus, Archbishop of Aleppo.—Arrival at Keliz.
On the morning of the Passover we moved forward. Our breakfast was on cheese, a mould of which had been kept by us since we left Wallachia; and on bacon, which had been given to us at Sivas. Our road this day was again very rugged, over huge mountains like walls, on which we were told they cut the wood for Aleppo. We coasted, for the most part, the River Jihān; and how often did it happen, from the narrowness of the path, and the great overflow of the river, that our road was entirely covered with water; and that the beasts, with their burdens, were fairly carried away by the stream, only some being recovered with great exertion? In the afternoon we came to a bridge near Marhash, over the Jihān; and we alighted. From this place we began to see the red soil of Aleppo, and the (سنديان) oak, almond, olive, and pomegranate tree in the orchards; and we now smelt the air of Aleppo. Marhash is a large borough, with abundant waters, and a handsome castle on the flat of a hill. Here we ate salad and greens, and (الكماه) the white mushroom. We left on Tuesday morning; and not crossing the ford of the River Ak Soo, or "White Water," through fear of its depth from overflow, we went round by the bridge; and had to exert ourselves much, to wade through the rice-grounds; for all these lands are laid under water, for the rice-plantation. In the afternoon we came to an ancient stone minaret, where, it is said, was formerly a large town, called Osmanjik, or Osman Dada; and near to the pillar is an ancient khân.
On Wednesday morning we proceeded on our road; and again suffered great hardship, in consequence of the great quantity of mud and clay, and the waters of the rice-grounds. The poor baggage-cattle used to sink to their necks, and their burdens would fall from their backs; and then the carriers had to wade,
