so much struck me as their perfect repose ; not a sign or sound recalled the fearful conflicts which they too often witnessed. The languid air was filled with no noise more warlike than the hum of insects, the creak of produce-laden carts on their way to market, or the merry prattle of children at play. Alas! the quiet glades of Formosa may soon be stirred once more with the din of a vital struggle for supremacy, between two races who for the first time will confront each other with modern weapons in their hands. The conflict when it takes place will without doubt be severe and its issue may lead to important results in opening up the vast continent of China. This fore- cast has been verified by the result of the late war, and China has been found, as I supposed, with her beggarly troops, her boasted navy, unable to cope with her much despised neighbour. Her increased army and modern navy afforded an opportunity, too tempting for the time-honoured and systematic plunder of the mandarins. The existence of an army proved an illusion ; the ships of the navy were simply targets for the Japanese cruisers; while the Chinese shells were filled with sand as a harmless and economical substitute for gunpowder or other ex- plosive material having a certain market value.
I determined to make an excursion into the interior, and to visit the outlying mission-stations, where my friend hoped, if possible, to open up new ground among the mountain savages. Accordingly on Monday, April nth, we left Tai-wan-fu for the village of Poah-be, and were carried in native sedans ten miles across the plain. I hired a number of coolies to convey my instruments, as I had determined to photograph the objects of interest which we might fall in with en route. The plain, a highly cultivated one, was dotted with Chinese farms, and with hamlets overshadowed by groves of bamboo; the chief products
