Page:Tramps in the Far North-Hector Bolitho.djvu/25

and happy. It was in these moments that I realised how beautiful Russell is to those who tire of the commercial whirl, and to those who appreciate nature rather than the faulty creations of man.

The “rush tourist” who “does” Russell with a camera and guide-book has a good deal to satisfy his craving for “ruins.” The old church at Russell is honeycombed with bullet holes—silent records of the early native battles, in which so many pioneers were killed. Enterprising launch-owners speed visitors across the water to other places of interest—Waitangi, where the famous treaty was signed; Marsden Cross, and other places which were so important in that early effort at civilisation.

WHANGAROA

We left Russel for Whangaroa, returning by rail as far as Otiria. We crept into the sunshine of the lazy siding, where we were to leave the too tolerant train for a motor, or failing that, a coach of sorts. The gods were unkind, and the motor was not forthcoming. I was tucked in between two good New Zealanders, who knew every inch of their country, and whose only fault was their amazing intelligence. They were mines of information as to geological formations, native trees, and points of interest. After I had conquered my first blushes at my utter ignorance, I was to find them charming and useful

Page 21