This interesting district was once the centre of the Hone Heke conflict, but little remains and little is said of the turmoil which once stirred this peaceful country. In the days of Hone Heke, Ohaeawai knew the sounds of primitive warfare—the report of guns and the awe-inspiring war hakas. It was on the main road to Kaikohe that Hone Heke had a great victory over the struggling pioneers, and on the hills to the South the diligent traveller may find cannon-balls that missed their mark during these early battles.
Leaving Otiria for Ohaeawai we had passed through a part of “old” New Zealand. One of the first mission stations was erected here, and other old buildings—now but landmarks—were the architectural triumphs of a past century.
We found in Pakaraka one of the most striking examples of cultivated gum land. I was surprised in noting the remarkable work that has been done with what was at first unpromising country. Pakaraka has been transformed into a veritable oasis of produciton, and the land is rich, black and loamy.
But we had arrived at Ohaeawai, and that meant rest. The most comfortable stage coach is not without its disadvantages, and we welcomed the comforts of a country hotel.
A little to the north, on the road to Whangaroa, we later passed Lake Omapere—a great expanse of water lying likePage 24