LETTER I.
Athens, March 20, 1852.
We left Southampton on the 17th February, 1852, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer "Montrose," from which we were transferred at Gibraltar to the "Ripon," then on her way to Alexandria with the Indian and Australian mails. As I passed through the Straits for the first time and saw the blue expanse of the Mediterranean stretching far away before me, I felt that the true interest of my voyage had there and then commenced. I had made my first step on that ancient highway of navigation of which the Pillars of Hercules were so long the extreme western boundary. My destination was that Ionian coast whence, in the 7th century before the Christian era, issued forth those enterprising mariners who first among the Greeks traversed the length of the Mediterranean and boldly competed with Phoenician traders in the ports of Spain. As, sailing on the track of these early adventurers, I thought over their Odyssean voyages, the recollection seemed to inspire me with fresh hope and energy. I compared myself to one of the old Phocæan mariners seeking for a Tartessus in unknown Western waters, and long cherished visions of discoveries in the Levant seemed to ripen into a positive presentiment of
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