I now take a sample set of ordinary measures to draft a bodice by:—
8, 15½, 18½, 5½, 19, 28, 7 X chest, 9 X bust, 12, 10, 7 neck* 36, 26.
THE BODICE SYSTEM.
Diagram 290.
Draw line 0, 19.
0 to 2, to taste, usually about 2 inches.
0 to 8, depth of scye.
0 to 15½, natural waist.
0 to 19, full length, plus ½ inch.
Draw lines at right angles to 0, 2, 8, 154.
0 to 2½, 1⁄6 neck.
2 to 6, the width of back* plus two seams.
15½ to 1, 1 inch.
Draw back seam, 0, 1,19.
½ to 20½, half chest, plus 2 inches.
20½ to 12½, the average between the across chest and across bust measures.
Thus, 7 plus 9 equals 16, average 8.
Find F by Registered Square, dropping angle line down ¼ in front.
12½ to F, front shoulder measure, less width of back neck.
12½ to D the over-shoulder measure, less ½ W of back.
F to D, ¼ inch less than ¾, 6 of back.
Shape scye very hollow at E, and keep it close up at B, C.
F to V, 1⁄6 neck.
V to 1 the same as F, V.
Draw breast line from Y through 20½.
Add on ¾ on button-hole side, and 1¼ or 1½ on button side.
SEAMS AND SUPPRESSIONS.
In large size bodices put in three side pieces.
In small ones, two are sufficient.
12½ to 11½, 1 inch.
Divide 11½ to ½ into 3 or 4 equal parts, according to number of side bodies.
Make side bodies 4 inch narrower at waist than on depth of scye line.
Suppress ¾ at each part, if there are three side pieces, or 1 inch at each part if there are only two.
Always take out 1 inch at under arm.
Reduce waist to measure, plus 2 inches by two darts.
Arrange the front of the first dart 1½ inches from breast line.
Make the strap between the two also 1½ inches.
