Page:Vincent's systems of cutting all kinds of tailor-made garments.djvu/49

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OF CUTTING VESTS.
39

THE SLEEVE SYSTEM.

0 to 4¾, same as from 7 to 12¼ of scye.

0 to 1, ½ to 1 inch.

Mark back pitch 2 inches below G (Diagram 45), and front pitch ¾f above 12¼.

Place back and foreparts in a closing position at the shoulder seam, and measure arm-hole between the two pitches.

Apply this measure from 1 to 9.

0 to 4½£, half 1,9.

Measure up length of sleeve by deducting width of back, allowing ¾ inch for seams, and measuring down from 9 to E and C.

Hollow elbow at forearm 2 inches.

Make sleeve one-sixth breast plus 1 inch at elbow.

Width of cuff rather less than one-sixth breast.

Square cuff by E, C.

Measure round under scye from hind arm pitch to fore arm pitch and apply from 4¾ to 7½.

Complete sleeve as shown.

On no account hollow undersleeve between 4¾ and 7½.

Sleeves are usually made from Silesia, Jean or Cantoon, the former for livery servants, the latter for working men.