When cutting lapel from cloth cut it on double as Diagram 93, adding ½ inch to one side at A, and reducing the other side a corresponding amount, the V at top being stoated and so making a thin edge.
Silk is generally brought to the end of the holes. The holes should run with the top of lapel, which should be as nearly horizontal as possible when on the wearer.
THE SLEEVE.
Diagram 89.
Deduct width of back from measure taken from centre of back to front of scye.
Make 0, 5 this quantity.
0 to 1 may be fixed at 1 inch.
Fix pitches the hind arm A at top of sideseam, and the fore-arm L at ¾ above 12½.
Measure scye A to 7½ and D to L.
Make 1, 9 to correspond with this measure.
0, 4½4 is half 1, 9.
Mark off length to elbow and cuff, and allowing for three seams, two on back and one on sleeve head.
Make width of elbow quarter breast less 1 inch, which is hollowed at forearm.
Make width of cuff one-sixth breast plus inch, or to taste.
Square cuff by 6½, 9.
From 5 to 7 A is the same as scye from A round to L. The cuff is usually made 3½ inches deep.
For erect figures increase the quantities from 0 to 1, to 1½ inch.
For Stooping figures reduce the quantity from 0 to 1, to ½ inch.
Some cutters like the forearm seam well out of sight, to do this add 1 inch to the forearm of topsides and take the same quantity from the forearm of underside.
This sleeve system applies to both jacket and coat diagrams.
