abided here the lifting of the veil, pondering on the changes wrought by christian civilization. The towering temple pyramid, with vestal fires and reeking stones of sacrifice, were replaced by crested naves, with domes and steeples, and the famed Aztec garden dwellings by dense and cheerless blocks of houses. The canals, with their throng of gliding canoes, embowered and flower-decked, had disappeared, and the glistening lake had shrunk away from the new-built city, and from the ravaged shores, once fringed with groves and shrubbery.
Here Maximilian lived, on the whole, an unostentatious life, making occasional visits to Cuernavaca, a score of leagues or so south, midway on the slopes into the tierra caliente, a paradise of balmy air and enchanting environment. He rose sometimes as early as three o'clock in the morning, and attended to letters and documents. Two hours later he took coffee, and was soon afterward in the saddle. He breakfasted usually between eight and nine. Ministerial consultations were held between one and half-past two. At half-past three he dined with the empress and a few friends, eating but little, and drinking either mineral water with ice, or champagne, but neglecting fruit and coffee. The table-service was plain, and also the food, despite the cooks imported from Europe, and excuses were not infrequently made before guests.[1]
This was usually the first reunion of the consorts during the day, for the empress had her hours and duties. She rose at half-past six, opening the day with a bracing ride. Prayers were held between eight and nine, followed by breakfast in the company of her maids of honor. Then she drove round to schools, hospitals, and other institutions, turning her steps about two for Chapultepec, in readiness for dinner. This over, she sauntered in the grove, retired with a
- ↑ 'Haben Sie jemals so schlecht gegessen wie bei mir,' he said one day apologetically to Countess Kollonitz, as she relates. Reise nach Mexico, 183. See also Court of Mexico, 222.
