Pictures of life in Mexico/Volume 1/Chapter 7
CHAPTER VII.
A TERTULIA, OR EVENING PARTY.
Having received a card of invitation to a tertulia, or evening party, to be held at the house of my friends Señor Tirenza and lady, in the "Calle de Francisco," City of Mexico, I set out on my way thither about dusk, and on foot.
Few things are considered more vulgar in Mexico than walking in the streets; carriage travelling, even for short distances, being the arbitrary rule; yet, on the evening in question, my unfashionable transit was more entertaining than it would otherwise have been. Many shops were closing, their owners standing with arms a-kimbo at the doors, smoking their neverfailing cigaratos, while their puny assistants were involved in raising quarrels with begging léperos, who everywhere haunt the stores at this hour. Street musicians, with their guitars and tambourines, were thronging from the public walks, to the posadas and pulquerias (pulque-stores); and street-vendors, with their characteristic and amusing cries, were in full force in every direction. Invitations to purchase "Gorditas! Tortillas! de horna caliente!"—"Cakes! hot cakes! fresh from the griddle!" were incessant. "Mantequilla! Lard! lard! at a rial a lump!" next exclaimed the grease-man. "Granaditas! Oh, my heart! monstrous granaditas!"shouted the fruiterer. "Ducks! hot and fresh! delightful ducks!" insinuated another itinerant; while entreaties to buy "Cigarillos," "Hot Chestnuts," "Bocadillo de coco,"—"Sweet Candy," "Frijoles and Chilé," and "Salt Mutton," seemed to fill the air, and resounded on all sides.
Arriving at the house, and being ushered into the grand saloon on the second story, the effect of the arrangements was most imposing. The apartment, which was large and lofty, and lighted by several splendid coloured lamps, had been cleared in the middle, with the exception of some small ottomans, leaving the ornamented side-boards and richly-laden tables at one end, while sofas, chairs, and musical instruments were ranged around. Some brilliantly coloured religious pictures, and a gold crucifix, hung upon the walls; a superb musical clock of large size, with a stuffed parroquet curiously made to move in time with the clockwork, imported from Spain, was conspicuous at the east end of the room; a finely executed and elaborately painted model of the Nativity, with numerous figures, attracted considerable attention; and two pianos, evidently of European construction, stood invitingly open. The tables and side-boards were adorned with massive and finely-wrought silver-plate and glass vases, with ices and other refreshments: groups of beautiful flowers and fine fruits being placed at intervals, which, reflecting back the light from the coloured lamps, imparted a sparkling and refreshing aspect to the whole.
Mexican politeness and compliments, on visiting-, introduction, and leave-taking, are proverbially ludicrous and laboured; this was a good opportunity for witnessing them. Immediately after I had paid my devoirs to my entertainers, a gentleman in scarlet and gold uniform was announced, who, entering the room with a series of low bows, thus addressed the lady of the house:—
"Honoured madam, I feel most happy in offering myself, without novelty, to your service! I hope you are excellently well!"
"At your disposal, Colonel," was the reply, "as are also my husband and my house."
"Madam," continued the officer, "your most humble, dutiful servant!"
"Sir, I am rejoiced!"
"Madam, I have the supreme honour to kiss your feet!" (Advancing a step, and bowing-without intermission.)
"Sir, I have the honour to kiss your hand!"
"Madam, I have pleasure in being your servant, and that of this honourable company."
"Colonel, we are all at your service!"
And so proceeded the ceremonies of introduction; and as other guests arrived until the company was numerous, the polite duties of the host and hostess became anything but a sinecure.
The dresses of the guests were splendid in the extreme, especially those of the ladies; much rivalry existing between different ranks and families on the subject of jewels and apparel. One of the most superb dresses belonged to a juvenile Señorita, the only daughter of a General: it was of dark crimson velvety embroidered with white satin flowers; the corsage ornamented with silver clasps, and the whole edged with the finest white lace; an under-petticoat, also trimmed with lace, appearing below it. She also wore a blue silk sash tied behind; a mantilla of fine blonde, studded with diamonds; diamond ear-rings, and a necklace of pearls and diamonds.
Another lady wore a dress in some degree resembling that of a peasant on holidays, which was exceedingly graceful: a satin vest, embroidered with gold, was worn open, shewing in front a fine lace chemisette; a muslin handkerchief, fringed with gold, covered the neck; and a petticoat of dark purple silk, trimmed with lace and embroidered with gold, contrasted with another petticoat beneath, of a lighter hue, adorned with coloured bows. Others appeared in black and dark-blue robes of blonde, with satin under-dresses, short sleeves, mantillas fastened with diamond brooches, pearl necklaces, and white, and pink-and-white satin shoes.There were gentlemen à discrétion, for the most part dressed in embroidered jacetis and serapés, and slashed pantaloons; and often in sparkling-uniforms,—military men being very popular here. My attention was particularly attracted by a rather intelligent-looking bishop from a distant province; who, attended by two deferential priests, was visiting the capital upon some mission connected with his church: I had the honour of conversing with his reverence for a short time in the course of the evening.
A young lady with light blue eyes, and fair, rosy complexion, was much noticed by the company. She was of Spanish extraction, but had resided nearly all her life in the United States: her light colour and fair hair rendered her almost a curiosity among the dark beauties around, so rarely are such persons to be seen in this country. A visitor from Europe is unlikely to appreciate the style of beauty of the Mexicans, until in a degree familiarized by time: their attractions generally consist in splendid, liquid black eyes, luxuriant dark hair, fine hands and arms, and pretty feet,—though these are often injured by being thrust into shoes far too small for them. They have neither the fresh, stately beauty of the English ladies, nor the vivacity of the French; the refined look of the American, nor the classical beauty of the Greek. The Mexican ladies are often short and stout; their teeth discoloured, their complexions clouded, and their gait undignified;—still, beautiful exceptions to these defects are not unfrequent, and they appear particularly attractive when seated in their carriages, or at the opera.
On the present occasion, I could not help remarking that the ladies were rather overdressed, upon the whole; and, with all their splendour, deficient in that elegant simplicity which is the best accompaniment of beauty, and one of the most unfailing indications of good taste.
After fruits, ices, and wines had been handed round, all eyes, as if by common consent, were turned to the open pianos; and the Señora Quienta, known to be a good singer and musician, was requested by our hostess to favour the company. She executed several fine Italian airs with good effect, and afterwards some native Mexican songs, by particular desire. Though correct, scientific music is at a somewhat low ebb in Mexico, great fondness for the art exists; and, as in Spain, fine voices are very common. The Señora's contralto voice appeared to much advantage in the simple Spanish ballads; and though the Mexican songs were for the most part childish and unmeaning in point of sense, their short and often-repeated cadences were sweet and pretty.
Guitar music, and songs accompanying it, next engaged the attention of the company; among which airs from the Puritani were to be distinguished. Then the pianos and guitars united to strike up a quadrille; and the varied groups arranged themselves for dancing, which was kept up with great spirit. After a short interval, they joined in a German cotillon; and subsequently a waltz. Various dances peculiar to the country, jarabes, afforrados, and enanos, were afterwards performed by the more youthful members of the party: these dances were rather monotonous, but with short steps and quick music, in a rustic fashion.
Weary of dancing, the middle-aged and elderly ladies and cavaliers at length formed themselves into parties for cards and conversation; while the younger indulged themselves with the "Juegos de prendas," or games of forfeits, of the country. Anxious to profit in some measure by conversation, I requested an introduction to the reverend bishop and his attendants, whom I have already mentioned,—and was fortunate enough to obtain it.
He was standing in an admiring attitude, with folded hands, before the carved and painted model of the Nacimiento, or Nativity, that completely filled a large niche in one of the walls. The native Mexicans are allowed to possess wonderful aptitude in carving and modelling small figures, and this was a very creditable specimen of their skill: the numerous groups composing the several compartments being well formed and effectively placed, however injured, as they were, by ludicrous anachronisms and incongruities.
In the centre of the piece was an ornamental Temple, with ivory pillars and a dark blue canopy, above which shone a huge, resplendent Star, manifestly attracting the attention of a band of figures advancing from a distance, with long black beards and magnificent dresses—these were the Wise Men of the East. On an ivory manger between the pillars, was laid a figure of the infant Christ, with gilt rays, and in a gold brocaded shirt; over whom the Virgin Mary—dressed in a lace mantilla, chemisette, and white satin shoes—was stooping fondly; while Joseph, also in gilded rays, and sombrero in hand, stood upright in the background. Curly sheep and very long haired cattle were ranged upon the straw at each extremity of the temple floor; and in the immediate foreground, five shepherds, with crooks and cups in their hands, draped quite unlike shepherds, were kneeling in various postures of devotion. This was the principal compartment of the model, and great pains had evidently been taken to render it full and complete; many of the wax figures were beautifully executed, though all had that unnaturally-new, garish appearance, generally to be observed in such productions.
The four remaining compartments—two on each side the principal—were equally characteristic. The most striking of these was a representation of the Massacre of the Children by Herod; in which the ruthless king was shewn seated on his throne, crowned, and raising a sceptre in his hand, as if directing the slaughter going on around him. Heaps of slain infants were piled up to the foot of the throne, by soldiers dressed in a fanciful admixture of drapery and armour; and women were bewailing their cruel deprivations, in various well-conceived attitudes of woe. As companion to this scene, on the other side, was the Flight into Egypt,—the supper part of which was filled with angelic spectators of the humble procession; and surely never did such a sleek, smooth donkey exist, as the one there depicted crossing a narrow board over a stream, with the Infant Christ on his back, in a small sombrero and serape, and Joseph and Mary on either side;—the former in a long-cloak and monk's hood, and the latter with miniature diamond ear-drops and a spangled petticoat.
The other two divisions of the piece were made to describe later events connected with the same history,—the Last Supper, and Christ washing the Apostles' feet: in one, the disciples were exhibited with the height of surprise on their faces at the conduct of Judas, to whom they were pointing, and who had hastily risen from the table with an indignant, scowling countenance: in the other, Peter was vehemently rejecting the offer of his Master, while Judas, money-bag in hand, again frowned on the party from behind, with one of the most villanous and malignant visages imaginable.After a hasty, though somewhat ceremonious greeting from the bishop, he turned to whisper to his attendants; and then allowed his gaze to wander to the model of the Nacimiento, as before. Presently, those representations appeared to excite him to conversation, and addressing me, alternately with the priests beside him, he proceeded as follows:—
"What a glorious thing, Señor, is our Holy Roman Catholic and Apostolic faith! Let heretics and enemies exclaim against it as they will, yet what a saving effect has it not had on this favoured country! Human sacrifices have been abolished; horrible atrocities have been prevented; immorality in high places has been checked; and a system of degrading superstition has been suppressed! In place of offering bleeding human hearts to senseless, misshapen idols, in cannibal temples, the people are directed to the worship of the one God: the truth of our Holy Church has been unfolded as a banner, and the adoration of Christ and the Blessed Virgin has superseded that of wooden monsters and hideous reptiles!"
On my endeavouring to elicit some account of the practices connected with the worship of the ancient Mexicans, to which he had alluded, the bishop continued thus:—
"In the ancient Aztec temples, there were many sanctuaries erected to the gods of war, with staircases and numerous altars, upon which human sacrifices were offered. The doors of these sanctuaries were often shaped in imitation of the heads of serpents and wild beasts, with mouths into which the entrails of birds, beasts, and men were continually thrust; and in the gardens set apart for the culture of holy flowers, horrible towers and mounds were formed of the skulls of human victims sacrificed.
"Thousands of priests, in divisions both for day and night, sang impure song's in honour of the idols; their hair died black, and their bodies anointed with spices and burnt flesh, and the ashes of scorpions and spiders. They had gods of Peace and War, of Earth and Air, of Fire and Water, of Corn and Flowers, of Night and of the Sun. In the hollow of the Stone of Sacrifices (which is still preserved), victims were laid, and priests, dressed in feathers of the toto, or sacred bird, held them down while the chief priests cut open their breasts, extracted their hearts, and offered them in golden spoons to the principal idols,—the rest of their bodies being burned as incense. It is currently stated that the number of human victims, annually sacrificed in this city, amounted to between twenty and thirty thousand!
"Blessed, then," exclaimed the bishop, in conclusion—"blessed be those glorious Christians from Spain, who first abolished these barbarities; and raised the standard of the Holy Cross, and the Image of the Blessed Virgin, in this polluted and benighted land!"
I could not but freely acknowledge that the Catholic religion, inefficient and abused as it has become, is a religion of charity and mercy, compared with the one so truthfully depicted by the provincial bishop; though courtesy restrained the utterance of my regret, that the Christian spirit of love and self-sacrifice is not at present exemplified in the church of Mexico.
By this time it began to grow late: the finger of the time-piece was fast approaching the hour of one; the dancers were evidently fatigued; the card-parties had broken up; several ladies, with their partners, had departed; and it was time for the remaining guests to follow. After partaking once more of the light wines and cooling refreshments, therefore, they dispersed,—with many lingering adieux and compliments to our excellent host and hostess. And I was glad to avail myself of the accommodation afforded by a heavy lumbering coach, with round sides and top, and protruding glass-doors and panels, on my return home.