Popular Mechanics/Volume 49/Issue 1/Insulating the Hot-Water Tank
Insulating the Hot-Water Tank
By E. E. SCOTT
Upper Right. Applying the Asbestos; Center, How the Covering Is Anchored Left, Completed Job; Note the Covered Heating Coil between the Tank and Boiler
Why place a radiator in the cellar? That is just what you do when you permit the plumbing contractor to install the hot-water tank in your new house, without covering it to prevent loss of heat. The usual 40-gal. dwelling-house tank will radiate sufficient heat to keep a 10 by 12-ft. room comfortably warm. In so doing, it causes the temperature of the water in the tank to drop about 20° below that at which it enters the tank. Furthermore this heat is not needed in the basement as the heater itself will radiate, unavoidably, sufficient warmth to keep that part of the house comfortable. If you would have more and hotter water and save some fuel besides, cover the tank with asbestos cement. But, you ask, how can it be made to stick to such a smooth surface as that of a galvanized-iron water tank? First, buy sufficient wire window screening to cover the tank completely except for the top and bottom. Bind this screening around the tank with bare-copper or soft-iron wire of about No. 18 gauge and draw the wire up as tightly as possible. Next purchase about 30 lb. asbestos "furnace-covering cement" from a hardware-supply house or plumbing shop; this should cost about five cents per pound when bought in bulk. Make a paste by mixing this material with water. The consistency should be such that, when a little of the paste is thrown at the screen-covered tank, it will stick. Apply the paste with a masons' trowel: the quality obtainable at a five and ten-cent store will be satisfactory.
The first coat is known as the skin coat and should be smoothed on to a depth of about 1⁄4 in. and allowed to set about 24 hours, until it dries white and hard. Add layers of the cement until a covering about 3⁄4 in. in thickness is obtained. The upper half of the tank should, however, be covered a little more heavily than the lower as the hottest water is always at the top. This is also desirable because, frequently, only the upper portion of the tank contains hot water, due to a low fire or to the water having been drawn off. The thickness of the coating can be determined by sticking a pin through the asbestos to the tank. The rounded top of the tank should also be covered to a depth of 1 in. or more.
Considerable care must be expended on the finish coat. A molders' slick makes the best smoothing tool, although a large spoon, flattened somewhat on the bottom, will do. Cover only about 1 ft. at a time, and smooth it carefully before putting on more. The work can be stopped at any time, as the new wet cement will make a perfect joint with a completely dried section. In order to make the finished surface as smooth as possible, a second smoothing with the slick should be given after the cement has dried for about onehalf hour. If sufficient care is taken, a smooth eggshell gloss will result, which will not only shed dust but will also permit only the very minimum amount of radiation. Many hot-water tanks used in connection with home steam-heating plants are heated by an external copper coil which is so connected that it is completely surrounded by hot water from the boiler. This heater is always at nearly the temperature of boiling water and should consequently be covered with an extra-heavy coating of cement, about 11⁄2 in.
The first layer should be quite thin, 1⁄8 in. or so, as a heavier application will drop off in patches due to the smaller radius and sharper angles of the heater. As the piping between the heater, boiler and tank presents only a small amount of radiating surface, it may simply be painted black with stovepipe enamel. The gas or separate heater used during the summer may also be improved in appearance, while it is standing idle, with a coat of the black enamel.
Double Wheels Conquer Soft Dirt
Extra Rear Wheel on Ford Permits It to Cross Freshly Plowed Soft Land
By bolting a complete extra wheel and tire to the regular rear wheels of his Ford cars, a large landowner in the peat-sediment delta of the San Joaquin river in California has solved a difficult traction problem. The soil is of the peculiar ashy, springy type characteristic of reclaimed peat areas, and affords little traction to the ordinary small single tire. The ranch foremen and mechanics must travel from field to field, often when cultivation is going on, and there is no time to make roads. With these double wheels a Ford can go anywhere on the ranch, even across a freshly plowed field. The photo shows how the extra wheel is attached by means of blocks of wood, through which are driven bolts, held in place by iron strips on both sides. The work was done in the ranch shop.—Logan Studio, Stockton, Calif.
Handy Vegetable Containers for Stores
Pivoted Containers for Vegetables in Grocery Store Make It an Easy Task to Transfer Them into Peck and Other Measures or to Bags
In grocery stores, clerks usually have to lift a whole basket of potatoes, apples or vegetables when transferring them into a peck measure or bag. This practice is more or less difficult and inconvenient, and can be entirely eliminated by pivoting the containers as shown in the illustration. It is advisable to use half sections of small barrels or large kegs for this purpose. Each one is securely strengthened and two 1-in. holes are drilled directly opposite each other through the side, so that the container can be slipped over a suitable length of pipe. The ends of this pipe are slipped through tees, provided on the ends of vertical standards, as indicated, the latter being securely bolted to the floor. The containers are filled, and it is an easy matter to fill either measures or bags by tilting the proper container to one side.
Steel Wool as Aluminum-Ware Cleaner
It takes little trouble to keep aluminum pots and pans shining if they are cleaned frequently with steel wool, water, and a nonalkaline soap. Use a very fine grade of the wool, and give the utensils a few rubs frequently, rather than attempt to clean them only occasionally, when they have become more soiled.—L. P. Langan, Denver, Colo.
A Timesaver for the Draftsman
Draftsmen who make electrical diagrams find that the drawing of a large number of resistance symbols is a rather irksome task. If slots are cut in a 30°-60° triangle, as shown in the drawing, the task becomes simply one of working between two previously established guide lines.—Reuben Jensen, Silverton. Oregon.
Uses for the Farm Saw Frame
The Farm Saw Frame Can Be Put to Many Other Uses
A Nebraska power farmer, who employs a large circular saw each winter for getting stove wood in shape, finds other uses for the machine. During the haying season he removes the saw and puts the grindstone in its place. Of course, the drive shaft is turned at low speed, about 150 r.p.m., by putting the belt onto a 4-in. pulley on the 4-hp. engine which is used to drive it. Another use to which the saw frame is put is for twisting cable for fence-corner braces. The frame is braced against end strain and the several strands are attached to the shaft. The other ends of the wires are fastened to the rear end of a heavy farm wagon. As the wires are twisted together, the over-all length is reduced. A man stands in the wagon with his hand on the brake and as the tension grows stiff, the brake is loosened just enough to permit the wagon to be drawn slowly toward the saw frame. When the wires have been twisted enough, the belt is thrown and a block of wood is held against the fly wheel to prevent too much back spin. Sometimes long pieces of cable, 100 to 200 ft., are twisted at one time and are later cut up into smaller lengths of proper size.—Dale R. Van Horn, Walton, Nebr.
Effective Tool for Stirring Paint
The secret of stirring up paint to its best consistency is to churn the contents of the can thoroughly so that all the ingredients are completely mixed. This cannot be done with a stick except by long patient effort. A device that will do the trick in a much shorter time can quickly be made from a short length of stiff wire cable. Wrap some cloth around one end for a handle. Then open the strands near the bottom and bow them out in the form of a hollow ball, as shown in the drawing. Such a stirring rod will pick up all the solid matter at the bottom of the can, and the separated strands will churn it into a good mixture—L. B. Robbins, Harwich, Massachusetts.
¶ A cork can be made to do the work of a glass stopper by placing it in a metal vessel and boiling it in vaseline; when dry, it is acid-resistant, unaffected by jamming it into a bottle, and will last indefinitely.
Continuous Fertilizer for the Garden
In many locations, especially in the cities, small garden spots need a great deal of fertilizing to make plants and flowers grow successfully. Take an old lime barrel or a metal can and clean it out well with water. It should be perforated with 1⁄2-in. holes along the sides and bottom, and is then half filled with some good fertilizer. Pour in water enough to fill the barrel. The fertilizer should be churned up every day. It has been found that the most stubborn soil conditions have been corrected in this way so that almost anything could be made to grow.—L. H. Georger, Buffalo, N. Y.
Pliers Have Stop for Bending Wire
Soft wire up to 1⁄8 in. in diameter can be most conveniently bent with the aid of a pair of pliers and a simple stop piece, clamped in place as shown in the drawing. As an example of what can be done with this device, a number of wire squares can be made exactly the same size. The stop is made and attached in a few moments and the whole batch of pieces finished quickly. A length of strip metal is bent at right angles at both ends and clamped to the side of one of the plier jaws. To make a right-angle bend, push the wire tip to the stop and bend it close over the other jaw.
Simple Jig Which Facilitates Bending a Number of Squares of Equal Size
Protecting Drawings from Being Soiled
Cloth Attached to Draftsman's T-Square Prevents Drawings from Being Soiled
Draftsmen making sketches and pencil plans will find that a cloth fastened to the T-square with thumbtacks, as shown in the illustration, is of considerable service in protecting drawings from being soiled. The cloth does not interfere with the work and covers the section of the drawing not being worked on, permitting the draftsman to rest his arms on it without any risk of smudging the work.
Using Sandpaper in Plane
For sandpapering a smooth surface where it is necessary to keep the paper absolutely flat so that no hollow places will be rubbed into the surface, a common plane can be used to advantage. Remove the blade and cut a strip of sandpaper sufficiently narrow to fit through the slot in the plane, then double it over so that it will remain fixed under the clamp that is used to hold the blade in position. The free end of the paper can be brought around under the plane and up over the front to be held down by the hand grasping the knob in front. By pushing and pulling the plane over the surface it can be sanded flat and with the least exertion.
Machine to Lap Crankcases
Crankcases have not been lapped by hand in the plant of the Marmon Motor Car company at Indianapolis since J. W. Anderson, mechanical engineer of the company, built, at a very low cost, a machine that does the work better, and saves 47 cents on the cost of each crankcase. A discarded radial drill press, reclaimed from the junk heap, is the principal part of the apparatus. The crankcase is fastened to a rotating vertical arm of the press and is given a supplemental to-and-fro movement by an eccentrically driven shaft. Ground glass was formerly used as the lapping compound. Worn-out sand from sand-blasting machines has replaced the ground glass. Mixed with coal oil, this sand has been found more satisfactory than the ground glass.
Old Radial Drill Press Converted into a Good Machine for Lapping Auto Crankcase
Piston-Ring Compressor
In the absence of a regular piston-ring compressor, an excellent substitute can be made from a piece of 2-in. clock spring, about an inch longer than the circumference of the ring, and a piece of stout cord. Insert the piston in the cylinder as far as the expanded ring will permit, fit the clock spring around the first ring to be inserted, anchor the cord to a stud or other fitting, which will enable it to lie flat on top of the cylinder block, wrap it once around the clock spring and pull it tight. As a result the ring will be evenly and positively compressed and the first ring will slide into the cylinder. Loosen the cord, remove the spring and repeat the operation for the other rings.
Double Cock Handle
A method of connecting two cocks so that one handle can be used to control both is shown in the accompanying drawing. This idea is being successfully used in connection with filling an inclosed tank with the correct amount of liquid required to make a mixture used in the printing business. The inlet cock is attached to the tank upside down, at the top, and the outlet in an upright position at the bottom. The handle is a piece of flat steel bent at right angles at both ends with square holes to fit over the squares on the plugs. Sockets are brazed to the tank to receive the cocks, one of these being brazed in place with the wrench assembled. When this is done, one faucet must be open and the other shut. Thus, if the inlet is open the tank will be filled, and when the outlet is open the inlet is automatically closed. As soon as the tank is emptied the outlet is closed, which automatically opens the inlet again, filling the tank ready for the next measure.―Harry Moore, Montreal, Can.
¶ Graphite should never be used on an engine timer as it may cause short-circuiting of the current.
Packing for Ford Window Glass
Older models of Ford closed cars had metal frame on the glass windows. It was padded with cloth on the sides, but was merely a metal channel along the lower side of the glass. The frame was held on both sides of the glass with some sort of wax. This is hard to find when the glass must be replaced, and if not used, the glass vibrates along the lower edge. Also, during a rain, water is likely to run into the channel and under the glass, where it will be thrown into the car by the movement of the glass. Cork strips. which may be cut from gasket material and forced down edgewise beside the glass into the frame, make good packing. The strips should be coated with shellac on both sides to keep them in place. The upper edge of the strips should be painted with black enamel, using a small brush. This is done to keep the gaskets dry, as the glue that binds the cork will be dissolved if it becomes wet.—E. T. Gunderson, Jr., Humboldt, Iowa.
Help for Drilling Vertical Holes
A mechanic who does not have access to a drill press, but is required to drill a perfectly vertical hole with an ordinary hand or breast drill, will appreciate the kink shown in the drawing. A circular level, such as used on cameras, is attached to the drill frame by means of a sheet-metal clamp. One ring of the clamp fits around the frame of the drill, preferably below the driving wheel, while the ring to which the level is attached is made the same diameter as the level, and has a wooden disk inserted in it so that the level may be screwed on it as indicated. The clamp is about 3⁄8 in. in width.—W. J. Edmonds, Jr., Whitehall, N. Y.
Reading Glass for Draftsmen
Reading Glass, Inserted in the End of a Flexible Tube of Desk Lamp, Helps Letterer
I had to do quite a bit of fine lettering in my high-school work and, as I worked at night, this caused a strain on my eyes. I took a lamp shade, which was an adjustable one of the hollow-tube kind, unscrewed the lamp socket, and withdrew the electric cord. Then I bought a 5-in. reading glass and whittled the wooden handle down until it fitted snugly into the end of the hose. In use, the glass is arranged directly over the work, as shown in the drawing. I showed this scheme to our drawing instructor and he has had one fixed up for himself―Harry Lampert, Los Angeles, Calif.
Easy Way to Fill Furnace Water Pan
On pipeless furnaces the water pan is often difficult to get at. The trouble was overcome in one case by filling the pan from the register in the floor rather than from the cramped and inconvenient position in the basement. An old gasoline-stove tank was used as a funnel and the pipe attached to it was extended into the water pan. A large-sized funnel can be substituted if desired, and a length of copper tubing used instead of the pipe, the tubing being soldered to the funnel.
Combination Eave-Trough Hanger
Improvised Hangers Hold Eave Troughs in Position While Attaching Regular Hangers
Tinsmiths, when handling eave troughs, often find it inconvenient to fasten the first hanger onto the edge of the roof, as one must hold the long section of the trough, place the nail and manipulate the hammer, all while maintaining a safe position on the ladder or scaffold. A Wisconsin tinsmith simplified the labor and eliminated much of the attendant danger by altering a number of common wire hangers in the manner shown. As not more than three or four of these are necessary on the average job, they are well worth the little trouble required to make them. Extra-long hangers are used for this purpose, the wire being cut diagonally at the loop end to provide a sharp point on the hook. One of the severed ends is bent in the form of a loop while the other is hooked so that the point centers within the loop. When the trough has been soldered, on the ground, the altered hanger is placed as near the middle of the trough as possible and bent to the angle of the eaves. The trough may then be carried up the ladder and balanced in place with one hand while the other wields the hammer to drive the hook point through the loop and into the shingles. The trough being thus quickly and easily supported, the workman is free to move his ladder back and forth to fasten the remaining hangers, and the work is completed.—G. E. Hendrickson, Argyle, Wis.
Rubber Tips to Keep Finger Nails Clean
Having trouble to prevent ink from getting under the cuticle of his nails, and not caring to wear rubber gloves all the time, a printer thought of a plan for keeping his nails clean without using gloves. He took a pair of rubber gloves, cut the finger ends off about 1 in. and put the tips over his fingers, which effectively avoided the trouble.—G. R. Dement, Buffalo, N. Y.
Commutator Tool
One of the most frequent causes of trouble on direct-current motors, particularly those having undercut commutators, is short circuits between commutator bars. Serious breakdowns in the commutators or windings of the armature can be prevented if the trouble is discovered in time, by digging out the carbonized mass between bars down to the clean mica. Tools useful for this purpose can be cheaply made from pieces of old hacksaw blades. The blades should vary in thickness to take care of mica segments of different widths, and a point of the desired shape is ground on the broken end. A number of tools with differently shaped points should be made, to suit the work of various types of motors. After the desired shape and edge have been formed on the blades, they should be hinged together by passing a rivet through the hole in the end of each and turning the head over with a hammer. This arrangement makes a very serviceable tool for the electrician and mechanics who find need of differently shaped tools of this type. It also provides a better grip than separate blades.