Royal Naval Biography/Smyth, William Henry

by John Marshall

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WILLIAM HENRY SMYTH, Esq.
[Post-Captain of 1824.]

Knight of the Royal Sicilian Order of St. Ferdinand and of Merit, Fellow of the Royal, the Antiquarian, the Astronomical, and the Geographical Societies of London; Member of the Society for the Statistics and Natural History of Tuscany; and of the Academy of Sciences of Palermo.

This gallant and scientific officer is the only son of the late Joseph Brewer Palmer Smyth, of New Jersey, in North America, Esq. by Georgina Caroline, grand-daughter of the Reverend M. Pilkington. By the paternal line he is a descendant of the celebrated Captain John Smith, whose intrepidity and attainments were instrumental in the colonization of Virginia; and the armorial bearings so nobly won by him, are still worn by the family.

During the American revolution, Mr. J. B. Smyth took up arms as a loyalist, and was with General Burgoyne at the battles which preceded the unfortunate catastrophe at Saratoga. The peace which established the independence of the colonies, depriving him of very considerable landed property, be returned to America, by permission, to substantiate his claims on the British Government, – but suddenly died. The Lords of the Treasury, however, assigned a small annuity for the support of Mrs. Smyth and her two children; and this is the only remuneration they have obtained for the wreck of a large fortune.

The subject of this memoir was born at Westminster, Jan. 21st, 1788; and was intended by his relations for a civil employment; but having early evinced that ardent predilection for nautical life which characterizes English youth, he embarked on board a West Indiaman, during the short peace that followed the treaty of Amiens. The ship in which he thus commenced his career as a sailor was commanded by Mr. John King, an intelligent Master in the royal navy, to whose careful tuition he is indebted for the rudiments of seamanship and navigation. Happening to be at Tobago, when the arrival of a British squadron, under Commodore (afterwards Sir Samuel) Hood, announced the renewal of hostilities, Mr. Smyth’s anxiety to enter the King’s service received additional stimulus from witnessing the attack of the Courland battery, and other operations terminating in the conquest of that island. On his return to England, in the autumn of 1803, he experienced a most destructive hurricane; and, after weathering that, had a very narrow escape in the chops of the Channel; for the ship being run foul of by one much larger, he was forced overboard, and in the consequent confusion had nearly been abandoned to his fate.

Being now decidedly bent upon maritime adventure, and his friends averse to his entering the navy, Mr. Smyth next went to the East Indies, with the intention of serving in that country as a free mariner; but he had not been there any great length of time, before the Honorable Company’s cruiser Cornwallis, in which he had just returned from an expedition against the Mahé Islands, was purchased by Government, commissioned as a frigate, and placed under the command of Captain Charles James Johnston; with whom Mr. Smyth continued to serve, in that ship and the Powerful 74; from the commencement of 1805, until the latter was paid off, in Oct. 1809.

The severe typhoons encountered by the Cornwallis, in the China seas, in 1805; – her engaging the Sémillante French frigate, in St. Paul’s bay. Isle Bourbon; and other services off the Mauritius, in 1806; – her novel and interesting cruise, her narrow escape from destruction by fire, with her captures and discoveries in the Pacific Ocean, in 1807; together with the Powerful’s perilous situation while cruising off the Cape of Good Hope, in search of some French frigates; and the utter unfitness of the latter ship for rough service, have been already noticed in our memoir of Captain Johnston. We have also therein stated, that notwithstanding the Powerful’s deplorably crazy state, she was, on her return home, immediately attached to the grand armament destined against Antwerp, and kept in commission until the period above mentioned.

Mr. Smyth then joined the Milford 74, Captain (now Sir Henry W.) Bayntun, under whom he served on the French coast, until that officer was superseded, Aug. 3d, 1810, in consequence of his ship having been selected to bear the flag of Sir Richard Goodwin Keats, K.B. Previous to this, we find Mr. Smyth bearing a part In several attacks upon the enemy’s coasting trade near Rochefort; and as he was subsequently engaged in a series of important operations, which were productive of great advantage to the cause of Spain, we shall here give an outline of the occurrences on the coast of Andalusia, from the period of his Admiral’s arrival in Cadiz bay, until the Milford’s departure from thence, in July, 1811.

Sir Richard G. Keats sailed from Spithead, with his flag on board the Implacable 74, Captain George Cockburn; and arrived at Cadiz in that ship, July 17th, 1810. At this period, the French army under Marshal Victor occupied the strong posts of San-Lucar, Kota, Santa-Maria, El Trocadero, Puerto-Real, Medina-Sidonia, and Chiclana; they had completed the blockade of the island of Leon, by land; and were busily employed in improving the defences of Fort Santa-Catalina and the batteries of El Trocadero, and in constructing additional works along the whole line of coast, from the Guadalquivir river to the sea-beach opposite Punta-de-Sancti-Petri. A considerable flotilla was preparing at San-Lucar; and the seamen originally trained to gun-boat service at Boulogne, and who had been employed on the Danube, in 1809, had already arrived to assist in the reduction of Cadiz. Eleven or twelve British and Spanish line-of-battle ships were lying as near to the city as the depth of water would admit; and at least 300 merchant vessels, of different nations, were crowded together between them and the shore. The enemy’s batteries in the neighbourhood of Matagorda were daily exchanging shot and shells with Fort Puntales; and the colours of Joseph Buonaparte were displayed in every direction on the terra firma. The obstacles to be overcome by Marshal Victor before he could approach Cadiz from the eastward, were, however, of an appalling nature, for the description of which we are principally indebted to Lieutenant-Colonel George Landmann, of the Royal Engineers, author of “Historical, Military, and Picturesque Observations on Portugal, illustrated by seventy-five coloured plates, including authentic plans of the sieges and battles in the Peninsula, during the late war^[1].”

The island of Leon has the inner and outer harbours of Cadiz on the north; the Atlantic Ocean on the south and west; and the Rio-de-Sancti-Petri on the east. The city and fortifications of Cadiz occupy the whole of a small peninsula, which is connected with the island by a narrow sandy isthmus, about four miles and a half in length, and forms its north-western extremity.

El Rio-de-Sancti-Petri is a channel of deep water, varying from 200 to 300 yards in breadth, with a strong tide running through it, and no where fordable at any time of the tide: it extends from the royal naval arsenal, in the inner harbour, to the ocean, and was defended by a number of batteries on both banks as well as by some Works on a small island near its southern outlet. It has but one bridge across it (El Puente-de-Suazo), the approach to which from Puerto-Real, Medina-Sidonia, Chiclana, &c. is defended by a tête-de-pont, consisting of two detached stone bastions, each mounting five Spanish 26-pounders in each face, and three in each flank; and at some distance retired from the line of a curtain, and rather nearer to the bastion on the right, is a stone redoubt, nearly square in plan, and mounting twenty-two heavy brass cannon, ten of which enfilade the high road that passes through its centre; four pointed towards the bridge and rear, and four towards each flank: numerous wet ditches, some of which were palisaded, and the great extent of swampy ground in front, mostly cut into salt-pans or pits, render the approach to these works very difficult. On the right and rear, close to the Rio-de-Sancti-Petri, is another work of masonry, having two faces and one flank, and capable of mounting nine cannon: this, as well as all the other works of the tête-de-pont, have their artillery in embrasures; and the two detached bastions, as also the last mentioned, arc open at the gorge, and seen into from the redoubt standing in the centre. The bridge could only have been gained by storming these works in succession.

El Puento-de-Suazo is a plain stone structure, sufficiently wide to admit carriages to pass each other; it formerly consisted of three arches, but, on the approach of the French armies towards the south of Spain, in the year 1809, the centre-arch was demolished, and a draw-bridge constructed in its place: the south parapet-wall was pierced with seventeen embrasures for heavy guns to enfilade the Rio-de-Sancti-Petri to the right.

Close to the western end of the Puente-de-Suazo^{[errata 1]} is the commencement of the town called La-Isla, between which and the isthmus there were two strong redoubts, both on the high road, and very judiciously situated. There were likewise some exceedingly well executed field-works, erected chiefly by the British, on the heights to the southward of LaIsla, and these might have been found useful, had the enemy made any serious attack. About two miles and a quarter beyond the westernmost of the above mentioned redoubts, and at nearly the same distance from the land front of the Cadiz fortifications, a new work called the Castillo-de-San-Fernando extends across the isthmus, from the inner harbour to the sea. The exterior side of its principal front measures 260 yards, and is composed of two small demi-bastions, a curtain, a wide dry-ditch, a covert-way with a place of arms in the centre, and an extensive glacis. The height of the walls measures, exclusive of the parapets, generally about twenty-two feet; the parapets of the front, across the high road, are twenty feet thick; and twenty-one heavy guns, in the curtain, enfilade the line of approach from La-Isla, which narrow causeway was at the same time flanked by a Spanish flotilla of gun and mortar-boats, under the command of Admiral Valdez, a patriotic officer, who had fought with great bravery at Trafalgar, but who is now an exile from his ungrateful country, and a resident of the British metropolis. The regular troops collected in the island of Leon, consisted of 4000 British and Germans, under Lieutenant-General Graham (now Lord Lynedoch); 16,500 Spaniards; and the 20th Portuguese regiment, about 1,400 strong.

As it became necessary to thin the over-crowded anchorage, and to remove, beyond the reach of danger, such of the Spanish men-of-war as were either inefficient, or not required for the defence of the place, Sir Richard Keats caused several of them to be equipped in the best manner that circumstances would permit, and conducted to Minorca and Cuba. Two first rates were conducted to the latter island by Captain Cockburn.

Expeditions were also formed to act on different parts of the Andalusian coast, one of which effected a landing about four leagues to the southward of the Huebla river, and made an impetuous attack upon a strong corps of cavalry posted at the town of Moguer. The enemy, not being prepared for such a visit, soon fled from the town, but rallied in the neighbourhood, and attempted to regain their ground. Worsted, however, in every attempt, they ultimately retreated towards Seville; and the allied force returned to Cadiz with some prisoners, and a number of volunteers for the army. Respecting this service, Sir R. G. Keats, on the 30th of August, 1810, wrote to the Admiralty as follows:

“I have received, through his Majesty’s minister at this place, the copy of a letter from his Excellency M. de Bardaxi, secretary of state for foreign affairs, strongly expressive of the sentiments of satisfaction and gratitude felt by the Council of Regency at the able and distinguished co-operation afforded General Lyon^{[errata 2]} by Captain Cockburn, the officers, and seamen under his command; and it becomes my duty to mark, in the strongest manner, how sensibly I feel the public service has been benefited by Captain Cockburn’s able, cheerful, and zealous conduct.”

About this period, a company of shipwrights arrived at Cadiz from England; and Sir R. G. Keats lost no time in forming a flotilla to annoy the enemy’s working parties, and to act against the naval force then preparing at San-Lucar. A small building yard was soon established, and ten gun-boats were speedily constructed ; nine others wore brought from Gibraltar; and, at length, thirty vessels of this description were equipped and manned by the British squadron. This flotilla was most ably and gallantly commanded, for many months, by Captains Robert Hall and Thomas Fellowes; and, after their promotion to post rank, by Captains Frederick Jennings Thomas, and William Fairbrother Carroll. Every day, when the state of the weather permitted, these gun-boats were actively employed alongshore, and, together with the AEtna, Devastation, Hound, and Thunder bombs, they very much retarded the progress of the enemy’s works. The Milford arrived at Cadiz, Sept. 2d, 1810; and two days afterwards, Mr. Smyth was appointed to the command of a large Spanish gun-boat, the Mors-aut-Gloria, mounting one long brass 36-pounder and a 6-inch howitzer, with a British crew of 35 men; in which vessel he continued until the beginning of March, 1811, bearing a part in almost every service performed by the flotilla during that arduous period. In justice to the other gentlemen of the squadron, who held similar commands at the same time, and whose universally admired conduct gained them the appellation of “fire-eaters” we subjoin as perfect a list as it is in our power to give, viz.

The present Captains George Rose Sartorious, and James Rattray; Commanders William Style, Frederick William Rooke, Smith Cobb, William Hall, George Woods Sarmon, John Leigh Beckford, and Daniel James Woodriff; and Lieutenants Charles Okes, Robert Roper Marley, Harry Wilson, William Hollamby Hull, Charles Basden, John Matson, George Sandford, Robert Purkis, and Thomas Irvine; the late Captain David Ewen Bartholomew, Commander Edward Wrottesley^[2], and Lieutenant Richard Tregent.

On the 12th of Sept. 1810, the French opened a heavy fire from all their batteries near Matagorda, and were immediately answered by Fort Puntales and the British flotilla; during this cannonade, two of Mr. Smyth’s men were badly burnt. On the 15th, the gun and mortar-boats again engaged the enemy’s works on the east side of the bay; and on the 17th, the bombs were in action with Santa-Catalina, which fortress, according to an official report drawn up by Captain (now Lieutenant-Colonel) Landmann, was capable of firing 24 guns upon the harbour of Cadiz, and nine in other directions: it had also four heavy mortars mounted in Sept. 1810.

On the 19th, the Mors-aut-Gloria and two of the Spanish flotilla silenced a small battery in the Bay of Bulls; and next day, the enemy excited great astonishment by throwing red-hot shot as far as the British squadron; a distance from Santa-Catalina, incredible as it may appear, of at least three miles: this was, probably, effected by reversing the gun on the carriage, and thereby giving it an extraordinary elevation. During the night, the atmosphere was singularly lighted by the fuses of crossing shells, from Puntales to the opposite shore.

While the French were employed in fortifying their numerous posts, the Spaniards were receiving considerable remittances from South America: and the British indefatigable in procuring ample supplies of provisions for the garrison of Cadiz, and in keeping up a constant communication with the south of Portugal, Tariffa, Gibraltar, and Tangier. On the 24th of Sept., the San-Pedro-d’Alcantara, 64, arrived from Lima, with a valuable cargo, and specie to the amount of several millions of dollars. The Cortes being then, for the first time, assembled, this coincidence was naturally hailed by the patriots as a most auspicious omen.

Previous to the meeting of the Cortes, the political and military government of Cadiz and its suburbs had been en trusted to a Junta, composed chiefly, if not wholly, of merchants; and it was presumed by the feeble Regency of Spain, that they would not fail to adopt the most proper measures for the public security; they, however, proved themselves to be far otherwise than disinterested servants of their country. From the very commencement of their authority, they strove by all means to acquire the exclusive management of the public revenue; employed the national funds in commerce; and appropriated the profits thereof to their own use. One of their first acts was to obtain the removal of the high-spirited Alburquerque from the command of the army in La-Isla-de-Lecon, and, had they retained their power, it is probable that Napoleon Buonaparte would have obtained possession of this most important point in the kingdom. Fortunately, however, the Provisional Regency was dissolved by the Cortes; and the authority of the Junta transferred to an Executive Council, consisting of three members – Blake, Cismar, and Agar; – the former of whom landed at Cadiz from the Druid frigate, Captain Thomas Searle, and assumed the chief military command in the island, Sept. 27th, 1810.

On the following day a pestilential fever broke out, and the communication between the British squadron and the shore was necessarily suspended. On the 30th of the same month, a fascine battery in advance of the French lines, near Chiclana, was attacked by a body of Spaniards, who completely surprised the enemy, spiked their guns, and gave no quarter.

On the 2d of October, a night attack by the bombs, gun-vessels, armed launches, and rocket-boats, produced a sensible effect on Fort Santa-Catalina, which was set on fire in two or three places; and, next morning, it was observed that the walls thereof had suffered greatly from the bombardment, and a subsequent explosion. This service was ably conducted by Captain James Sanders, of the Atlas 74. On the 3d, the Mors-aut-Gloria was twice struck by shot, but sustained little damage. On the 5th, she joined in an attack on Forts Napoleon and Luis; the former a strong earth battery near Matagorda, mounting sixteen heavy guns and four mortars; the latter occupying a small muddy point of the Trocadero island, and mounting fourteen guns, two mortars, and two howitzers, on the side next to Puntales, and about the same number of cannon to fire on the inner harbour. In the night of the 18th, Captain Fellowes made a spirited attack on a French privateer under the fortifications at Rota. On the 28th, the Camperdown gun-vessel, commanded by Lieutenant Style, struck on Los Corrales, a reef of rocks between Cadiz and Puntales, when a midshipman and fourteen of her crew miserably perished.

Early on the morning of the first of November, a French gun-vessel from San-Lucar was observed lying aground at the entrance of the Rio-Guadalete, where she was boarded and destroyed by the boats employed in rowing guard, under Captain John Sprat Rainier, of the Norge 74. Seven more of the Guadalquivir flotilla were at the same time attacked by the British gun-boats; but having got within the bar before they were discovered, and being there protected by Fort Concepcion, several redoubts, and a corps of horse-artillery on the beach, they could not be prevented from reaching Puerto-Santa-Maria. In this affair, the Mors-aut-Gloria bore a very conspicuous part, and Mr. Smyth did not quit the point of attack until the falling tide had nearly left his vessel on the bar.

At 3 p.m., the wind then blowing strong from the westward, with thick hazy weather, the remainder of the San-Lucar gun-vessels, which in the morning had taken shelter at Rota, were discovered running alongshore, and instantly pursued. Unfortunately, however, they were already so far advanced that it became a stern chase: and from the short distance they had now to run, not one of them could be taken. In attempting to turn the headmost vessel. Lieutenant Leeke, of the Milford, was killed; and in the running fight that ensued, Lieutenant Hall, commanding the Bouncer gunboat, appears to have been badly wounded. The heavy metal of their opponents, it is said, especially that of the Mors-aut-Gloria, effectually sickened the French sailors of their new sphere of action; but we are likewise informed that the arrival of such a naval force at Puerto-SantaMaria did not fail to occasion a great sensation in the city of Cadiz; the inhabitants of which were apprehensive that a descent would soon be effected near Puntales; although its defences had been much improved, and the western part of the isthmus considerably strengthened with additional field-works.

In the night of Nov. 14th, the French flotilla attempted to elude the vigilance of the British, and get into the Caño-de-Trocadero; but some of the vessels were driven back to the Rio-Guadalete, out of which they never again ventured; and the rest obliged to take shelter in the Rio-San-Pedro, from whence they were afterwards transported overland to the marshes of La-Marquilla, below Puerto-Real. On the 23d, “the mortar and howitzer-boats, under the able direction of Captain Hall”, threw, seemingly with considerable effect, several hundred shells amongst the Santa-Maria division; whilst the AEtna, Devastation; and Thunder, part of the Spanish flotilla, and the British gun-boats, the latter in two divisions, “under the zealous command of Captain Fellowes and Lieutenant Carroll, successfully drew the attention and fire of Catalina.” On this occasion, “two highly esteemed and respectable young officers, Lieutenants Thomas Worth and John Buckland, of the royal marine artillery, were killed,” by one shot, in a cutter belonging to the Milford; “their loss,” says Sir R. G. Keuts, “was the theme of universal regret. Mr. Samuel Hawkins, midshipman of the Norge, also fell gallantly, which, with four Spanish and four English seamen wounded, constitutes our loss on a service, the execution of which merits my warmest praise.” Captain Fellowes continued in action with Fort Santa-Catalina from 2-30 p.m., until ten o’clock at night. The Mors-aut-Gloria alone fired upwards of seventy rounds, and seemed to attract the particular attention of the French gunners; probably from her superior size, and the conspicuous death-head and crossbones with which her bows were decorated – their ricochet shot were constantly splashing the spray over her, and cut several of her sweeps; yet, strange to say, she sustained no other damage.

In the beginning of December, the Hound’s main-mast was shot away; and a few days afterwards, the AEtna burst her large mortar, being the fourth time that she had done so during the siege: this bomb-vessel, in particular, was often struck by shot and shells. On the 22d, a party of seamen and marines, under Lieutenant Bourne and Captain Fottrell, made a descent between the Guadalete and San-Pedro rivers, carried a small battery by assault, killed five of the guard, and took the remainder prisoners.

The evening of Christmas day was silent in making preparations for the destruction of the French gun-vessels which had been dragged overland from the Rio-San-Pedro, and were then in the Cano-de-Trocadero. Here they expected to remain without annoyance; but Sir Richard Keats was determined to harass them while any thing remained which could float. In the darkness of night, the British flotilla passed silently into the inner harbour, formed a junction with Admiral Valdez, and anchored near Canteras. At day-light on the 26th, the enemy opened a desultory fire, which was not returned. At 1 p.m., being high water, the whole combined force weighed and swept rapidly over to the Trocadero side, where the Spaniards commenced the action by engaging Fort Luis and the adjacent lines, while the British, under the immediate command of Sir Richard Keats, attacked the northern batteries and the vessels they protected. In the mean time, Fort Puntales opened upon the works near Matagorda, and the bombs, &c. kept Fort Santa-Catalina in play. A furious cannonade was kept up throughout all the French lines, and the tremendous roar of cannon and mortars, continued till half-past three o’clock, when seventeen heavy gun-vessels having been totally destroyed, the allied flotilla hauled off, and the firing every where terminated.

The last day of the year 1810 was rendered remarkable by the enemy throwing some eight and ten-inch shells into the city of Cadiz, by means of immense howitzers, purposely cast at Seville; one of which is now mounted in St. James’s Park. These shells were nearly filled with lead, leaving space for about one pound of powder; the greatest range was 6200 yards.

On the 2d of Jan. 1811, the Spaniards opened a new “Aguada” near the Porto Douro, and thereby enabled the British squadron to obtain fresh water without the risk of sending to Canteras; a service which had been attended with the loss of many boats in the channel between the two harbours.

On the morning of the 13th, a large gun-vessel was discovered lasking alongshore, between Rota and Fort Santa-Catalina: chase was instantly given by the “fire-eaters,” and she was soon driven on the rocks and destroyed, even in the teeth of the French batteries. On the same day, another gun-vessel was disposed of in the same way, close to the mole-head at Rota, and under a very heavy fire.

Much harassing work now devolved on the British flotilla, as Marshal Victor, whose hopes of organizing a regular naval force were at an end, had resolved to encourage the fitting out of a number of small fast rowing vessels as privateers, the crews of which could easily escape to the shore in emergencies. These in the end became very daring and troublesome; and it was even suspected, that many of their men were deserters from the British regiments.

In the middle of February, Sir Richard Keats made arrangements for the embarkation of a military force; Lieutenant-General Graham having agreed to co-operate with the Spanish General La Pena, in an attack on the rear of the enemy’s lines. By the 20th, the Portuguese regiment commanded by Colonel Bush, and upwards of three thousand British troops, were embarked, some on board the Stately 64, Druid frigate, Comus 22, Sabine, Tuscan, and Ephira sloops, and Steady and Rebuff, gun-brigs; others in such transports as Sir Richard could avail himself of; and the remainder in Spanish vessels. The naval part of the expedition was placed under the command of Captain (now Rear-Admiral) Edward Brace, who had recently joined from England. On the 22d a landing was effected at Algeziras, from whence the troops marched to Tariffa, where they were joined, on the 27th, by the Spanish force, seven thousand strong, brought thither in numerous coasting craft. The roads being impracticable for carriages, the artillery, provisions, and stores of every description, “owing,” as the Lieutenant-General was pleased to say, “to the extraordinary exertions of the navy,” were transported in boats from Algeziras to the same place, notwithstanding the unfavorable state of wind and weather, which had rendered a debarkation any where to the westward impossible. The result of this combined movement is thus stated by Sir Richard Keats, in an official letter, dated at Cadiz, March 7th, 1811:–

“The combined English and Spanish armies, under their respective commanders, moved from Tariffa on the 28th ultimo, towards Barbate, attended by such naval means as circumstances would permit. Preparations were made by me and our ally, and acted upon, to menace the Trocadero and other points, in order, as the army advanced, to favor its operations; and arrangements were made for a landing, and real or feigned attacks, as circumstances might determine: to this end, the regiment of Toledo was embarked on board H.M. ships in the bay.

“On the 1st instant. General Zayas pushed across the Sancti-Petri, near the coast, a strong body of Spanish troops, threw a bridge across the river, and formed a tête-de-pont. This post was attacked on the nights of the 3d and 4th, with vigour by the enemy; and though he was eventually repulsed, the loss was very considerable on the part of our ally. As the weather, from the earliest preparation for the expedition, had been such as to prevent the possibility of landing on the coast, or bay even without great risk, and with no prospect of being able to re-embark, should such a measure become necessary, the apprehension of having a force, which, with such prospects, I could scarcely expect actively to employ, when its services might be positively useful elsewhere, in defending the tête-de-pont, or in opening a communication with the army from La-Isla-de-Leon, induced me to state my sentiments on the subject, and the regiment of Toledo was in consequence disembarked. The sea on the coast having considerably impeded our communications, we were still uncertain whether the advance of the army would be by Medina or Conil, and of its precise situation, until the 5th, when at 11 a.m. I was informed by telegraph from La-Isla, that it was seen advancing from the southward near the coast. But though the Implacable and Standard weighed, to engage Catalina, the pilots refused to take them to their appointed stations; and, in the opinion of the best informed, the weather was of too threatening a cast to venture a landing, which, as the army was engaged by noon, according to the telegraph, would not have favored its operations. Under such circumstances, our measures were necessarily confined to feints; whilst the British troops, led by their gallant and able commander, forgetting on the sight of the enemy their own fatigue and privations, and regardless of the enemy’s advantage in numbers and situation, gained by their determined valour, though not without considerable loss, a victory uneclipsed by any of the brave achievements of the British armies.”

We need scarcely add, that the victory thus announced was that of Barrosa, achieved by a mere handful of British and Portuguese troops, over two divisions of the French army, commanded by Marshal Victor in person.

The woody ridge of Barrosa is about three or four miles from the southern outlet of the Sancti-Petri, and was unexpectedly found occupied by a force of more than eight thousand men. In this emergency, to secure a road to the bridge, Lieutenant-General Graham resolved to charge up the heights, although his troops had been toiling for sixteen hours through a heavy sandy tract of country. British valour carried the day; and, but for the exhausted state of the heroic band, the victory would have been still more signal. The enemy’s loss in killed and wounded amounted to nearly 3,000 officers find men; General Bellegrade and the colonel of the 8th regiment of French infantry were amongst the slain; and Generals Rufin and Rosseau, 47 other officers, and 460 men, taken prisoners: one eagle, three stands of colours, four field-pieces, and two howitzers, also fell into the hands of the conquerors, whose loss was eight officers and 195 men killed, and 55 officers and 985 men wounded: among the latter was Colonel Bush, who received a shot in the groin, and only survived a few days.

On receiving intelligence of this brilliant achievement. Sir Richard Keats immediately despatched Captain Cockburn to the army, with boats and other assistance; and this officer (who had but recently returned from the Havannah) was eminently useful in securing the prisoners and bringing off the wounded.

On the following day, the wind having come off the land, and the sea much abated, two landings were effected by way of diversion; one between Rota and Catalina, and the other between that fort and Puerto-Santa-Maria. The force employed consisted of the marines of the squadron, 200 British seamen, and 80 Spanish sailors. One division was commanded by Captain John William Spranger, of the Warrior 74; the second by Captain Edward Kittoe, of the Milford. At the same time. Fort Santa-Catalina was bombarded by the Hound and Thunder; and the batteries to the eastward of Cadiz were kept in check, with much spirit, by the flotilla under Captains Mall and Fellowes. A redoubt of four guns was carried by the marines of the Milford, led on by their commanding officer. Captain Patrick Fottrell. Another of the same force, situated at the entrance of the Rio-de-Guadalete, and surrounded by a ditch and spiked stockade, was stormed by Captain Fellowes at the head of his boat’s crew, under a heavy fire of grape from the neighbouring batteries. The guns of all the sea-defences from Rota to Santa-Maria, with the exception of Catalina, were spiked, and the works materially damaged.

In the execution of the above services, the British had one gun-boat sunk, three men killed, and thirteen (including Lieutenant John Bayly, R.M.) wounded. Thirty-one French soldiers were taken prisoners.

This appears to have been a busy period with Mr. Smyth. In consequence of his having acquired an accurate knowledge of the circumjacent coast and channels, he had been charged with despatches for Lieutenant-General Graham, while that distinguished officer was on his route from Tariffa; and he arrived at the southern end of the Sancti-Petri, just after the enemy was repulsed in his last attack upon General Zayas: he consequently witnessed the termination of the battle of Barrosa, and remained on the field until the imbecile La Pena and his 7,000 Spaniards crossed the ground of which they should have shared the glories. He only returned to Cadiz in time to take charge of a large flat, armed with a 32-pounder carronade, and accompany a force ordered up to the naval arsenal, on the 10th of March: but when inside Matagorda, his boat was nearly sunk by the enemy’s batteries, and had three men mortally wounded. On the 14th, the Milford’s barge, under his command, while pursuing a privateer near Rota, was hailing one of the Implacable’s boats when the latter was struck by a shot, which killed three men, badly wounded another, and tore away her quarter. On the 16th, he rendered essential assistance to a water-logged American ship, which had been ashore near Cape Trafalgar. On the 18th, he was towing some spars from the Casa-Blanca to the squadron, when they were repeatedly struck by the enemy’s shot. And, on the 20th, he commanded a boat in an unsuccessful expedition against some piratical privateers at Chipiona.

During the night of the 27th of March, a tremendous gale blew from the S.E., and at day-break on the 2Sth, signals of distress were flying in every direction. In the afternoon it was ascertained, that about fifty-three sail of merchantmen had been wrecked, and at least one hundred others more or less damaged: the number of lives lost was computed at 250. Mr. Smyth, who then had the charge of a heavy armed boat, was driving before the blast, when he was very opportunely assisted by the Undaunted frigate, and received the kindest attentions from Captain Richard Thomas, whose sufferings after the loss of the Lady Hobart packet, in 1803, made him regard the distressing scene of devastation with feeling sympathy.

On the 12th of April, the Hound sailed for Gibraltar, having had her large mortar damaged, and main top-mast shot through. On the 15th, a detachment of Spanish troops, under Generals Blake and Zayas, left Cadiz, to join General Ballasteros, then near Ayamonte with about 4000 men, for the purpose of cooperating with Marshal Beresford, at the approaching siege of Badajos. A constant communication with those officers was kept up by the small vessels of the British squadron; and in the course of this service. Lieutenant Vallack, commanding the Basilisk gun-brig, perished with the whole of his boat’s crew, in attempting to cross the bar of the Guadiana. The above detachment bore a part at the battle of Albuera, May 16th, 1811.

Owing to the successes of Lord Wellington, the siege of Cadiz now dwindled to a mere land blockade; the British flotilla, however, never relaxed in its endeavours to annoy the enemy, and was consequently often engaged with Fort Santa-Catalina and other works. On the 27th of May, Captain George Price, commanding the Sabine sloop, reported the capture and destruction of four of the Chipiona privateers.

From the 14th to the 28th of June, the Milford and three other line-of-battle ships cruised at the entrance of the Straits, where they fell in with Sir Edward Pellew, proceeding to assume the chief command in the Mediterranean. After communicating with that officer, Sir Richard Keats returned to Cadiz, accompanied by Rear-Admiral Legge; who had been appointed his successor, and who continued to conduct the naval operations on that station until, amongst the consequences of the glorious battle of Salamanca, every French soldier was withdrawn from the vicinity of La-Isla-de-Leon.

The Milford proceeded from Cadiz to Gibraltar, Carthagena, and the coast of Catalonia; after which she joined the fleet off Toulon, where Sir Richard G. Keats shifted his flag into the Hibernia, July 31st, 1811. On the following day, Mr. Smyth joined the Rodney 74, Captain John Carter Allen, under whom, and Captain Edward Durnford King, he served as master’s-mate until about the close of 1812, when that ship was paid off, in consequence of her having been almost torn to pieces, by a violent gale in the stormy gulf of Lyons. In the mean time she had been actively employed on the coasts of Spain and France, and was with Sir Edward Pellew, in Hieres bay, when those fine three-deckers – the Caledonia, Hibernia, and Temeraire – drifted under Porquerolles, and received a heavy fire from the enemy’s batteries, which were soon silenced and laid in ruins by the British fleet. We afterwards find her watching the port of Toulon, with only two frigates in company; and in Mr. Smyth’s journal there is mention made of one of those occurrences which, though not then uncommon, marks the coolness with which affairs were managed:–

“Jan. 15th. 1812. Strong gales and clear weather. At day-break perceived a strange ship standing in towards Cape Sicie, and made all sail in chase. We were coming up with her, hand-over-hand, but still she had a chance of escape, only that the Apollo and Alcmene being close in shore, and under French colours, the stranger bore to them for protection, and was immediately boarded. In the interim, all the telegraphs along the coast were briskly worked, and twelve line-of-battle ships came out of the outer roads, under a heavy press of canvass, to rescue their vessel. Made the signal to the frigates to secure the prize, and stood on to observe the enemy. At noon, squally weather. Hove-to, and remained with the main-top-sail to the mast till, after a near approach, the French ships, three of which were first-rates, suddenly reefed their topsails, wore, and stood in for Toulon again. We then filled, joined the two frigates, and sent an officer with a party of men to carry the prize to Minorca.”

A survey of La-Isla-de-Leon and the neighbouring coast with an accurate detail of the strength of the various French and Spanish batteries, executed by Mr. Smyth while in command of the Mors-aut-Gloria, being at length submitted to Viscount Melville, by Captain Hurd, the hydrographer, and seconded by handsome testimonials from Captains Hall and Fellowes, of the ability and intrepidity which he had displayed during that period, his lordship was pleased to present him with a lieutenant’s commission, dated March 15th, 1813, and at the same time sent him a note couched in most gratifying terms.

Lieutenant Smyth was soon afterwards appointed to a command in the Anglo-Sicilian flotilla, stationed at Messina, under the orders of his friend Brigadier Sir Robert Hall, with whom he had first become acquainted at Cadiz. This force consisted of heavy gun and mortar-vessels, rocket-boats, and armed scampavias, all well-appointed, and manned with 3000 organized native sailors. Such a formidable obstacle to invasion was one of the principal means by which 14,000 British and German troops had been enabled to hold the island of Sicily against Murat’s army, amounting to 38,000 chosen men.

One of the first services in which Lieutenant Smyth appears to have been employed, was a confidential mission to the Court of Naples, then just wavering in its allegiance to Napoleon Buonaparte. Early in 1814, he proceeded to Palermo in command of the Scylla brig, having Sir Robert Hall’s flag on board; and while there, was exposed to a serious personal danger. In the night of the 19th of February, being on shore with the Brigadier, he received a report that the Scylla was in flames. The wind then blew a furious gale, with heavy torrents of rain, and he had the utmost difficulty in getting a boat launched from Porta-Felice. On rowing a little way out, he perceived a large ship in flames and adrift, and that his own vessel was riding in safety. Following the former, he was acutely distressed by seeing the men who went aloft to loose sails successively burnt, but had the pleasure to rescue one of the crew who had leaped overboard. The ship soon afterwards grounded under the citadel, and proved to be the Whitby transport, bearing the pendant of Lieutenant William Pitt, agent. On her taking fire, she was moored within the mole-head; but being promptly cut adrift, the violence of the wind drove her through two tiers of vessels, though on her way out, she rubbed the main channel off a ship with 1200 barrels of gunpowder on board! Lieutenant Smyth’s boat was the only one which put off during that fatal night and returned in safety; – four masters of ships were drowned, and, next morning, numerous dead bodies were found strewed along the beach.

Shortly after this, Sir Robert Hall was appointed to the command of the naval force on the lakes of Canada, when he addressed a most friendly letter to Lieutenant Smyth, of which the following is an extract, – “I have no doubt of your soon obtaining the step it is so natural you should be anxious for, because to the cool gallantry I have observed you possess, in presence of the enemy, you add the talents of an eminently scientific navigator, and therefore you are not likely to remain inactive during the peace that threatens us. I shall not fail to assure Lord Melville of your merits and services, on my arrival in England^[3].”

The abdication of Napoleon Buonaparte, in April 1814, by closing the European war, afforded Lieutenant Smyth an excellent opportunity of commencing a survey of Sicily, to which he was the more strongly stimulated by the little probability that then existed of the general tranquillity being again disturbed; – “finding one avenue to professional reputation closed,” said he, “I will endeavour to obtain it by another.” He afterwards visited the ex-Emperor at Elba and during the subsequent short war, occasioned by by flight from thence of that “meteor of the age,” and the rashness of Murat, we find him employed amongst the AEolian or Lipari Islands. One day, being on the peaked summit of Panaria, he perceived a large Neapolitan gun-vessel standing towards the Cala-del-Castello: having heard of her taking a prize some few hours before, he immediately stationed himself in an armed boat close under a point of land, dashed alongside of the enemy just as she was rounding it, and so completely surprised her crew, that he obtained possession without a man of either party being hurt.

Some time previous to this little exploit, that accomplished officer, Rear-Admiral (afterwards Sir Charles V.) Penrose, had arrived in Palermo bay, to take charge of the Mediterranean station, and was astonished to find Lieutenant Smyth carrying on an extensive series of hydrographical operations, connecting Barbary, Sicily, and Italy, entirely on his own means, and without any official instructions. After fully acquainting himself with all the bearings of the case, he made several efforts to procure a proper establishment for the enterprising surveyor; and we insert one of his letters, with the greater pleasure, because it is mainly owing to this occurrence, that the study of hydrography has since been so widely cultivated:–

“H.M.S. Queen, at Sea, 4th April, 1815.

“Sir,– Lieutenant Smyth having delivered to my charge some finished plans of ports in Sicily, requesting me to forward them for the inspection of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, I have promised to do so by the first safe opportunity.

“I feel it my duty to add, that the celebrated Piazzi, as well as the officers of engineers, and all other judges, give ample testimony to the extreme accuracy of the observations and calculations of Lieutenant Smyth, and I have had opportunities of comparing some on the spot, which fully corroborate it. His written remarks, both in a nautical and military point of view, are very valuable; and he has the advantage of uniting great celerity of operation with extreme exactitude.

“The respectable light in which he is held by all the Sicilian ministers and authorities will enable him to act with much greater effect than any other person.

“I venture to press the merits of Mr. Smyth with more confidence because he was entirely unknown to me, till I saw the utility of his professional labours in Sicily.

“The very great errors detected in former charts, exhibit the value of the present survey in a strong light. I have the honor to be, &c.

(Signed)“C. V. Penrose, Rear-Admiral.

“To J. W. Croker, Esq. Admiralty.”

Lieutenant Smyth continued his important labours, in a borrowed Sicilian gun-boat, long after the British troops had evacuated the island; and during the progress of his survey, gave such satisfaction to the Admiralty, that he was not only advanced to the rank of Commander, Sept. 18th, 1815, but, says the Secretary, in a letter to Rear-Admiral Penrose, – “I am commanded by their Lordships to acquaint you, that they are much pleased with Captain Smyth’s zeal and ability, and that they are more particularly satisfied with the beauty and apparent correctness of his surveys and drawings; and as a mark of their approbation, and an incitement to other officers to give their attention to similar pursuits, my Lords Commissioners will direct a selection of his drawings to be engraved and published for the benefit of Captain Smyth.”

This arrangement of their lordships was altered in consequence of some difficulties arising, and it was finally deternuMcd to engrave the “Atlas of Sicily” in the Admiralty Office; and for Captain Smyth to publish a “Memoir descriptive of the Resources, inhabitants, and Hydrography of that and the neighbouring islands, interspersed with antiquarian and other notices,” in a separate volume, of which the Board purchased 100 copies. This highly interesting work has been favorably received, and extensively reviewed, not only in England, but also in Germany, France, and Italy^[4].

In the spring of 1816, Captain Smyth joined the squadron under Lord Exmouth, hoping that his Sicilian gun-bout, with her 68-pounder carronade and Congreve rockets, would have been in requisition to cover a landing on the Barbary shore, the Admiral’s object at this period being to oblige the piratical states to relinquish their depredations upon European commerce; matters, however, were for a time amicably adjusted.

After witnessing the liberation of numerous Christian slaves. Captain Smyth obtained permission from the Bashaw of Tripoli, to visit the ruins of Leplis Magna (situated on a fine level district to the eastward), to examine into the possibility of embarking the numerous columns which his Highness had offered to the British monarch. He accordingly proceeded thither, in company with the Consul, Colonel Hanmer Warrington.

“The ruins,” says he in his private journal, which he has obligingly placed at our disposal,) “had a very interesting appearance, from the contrast of their fallen grandeur with the mud-built villages of Lebidah and Legatah, and those of the Nomadic tribes scattered around. The city, with its immediate suburb, occupies a space of about ten thousand yards, the principal part of which is covered by a fine white sand, that, drifting with the wind along the beach, has been arrested in its progress by the ruins, and struck me at the moment as having probably been the means of preserving many specimens of art, which, from the numerous pillars, capitals, cornices, and sculptured fragments strewed around, I could not but suppose to have been extremely valuable; more especially, since having been the birth-place of the Emperor Severus, he might have enriched it with presents; besides which it had been highly favored, for its adherence to the Roman interest during the Jugurthine war. In addition to these circumstances, the fact of Leptis having been sufficiently opulent to render in tribute a talent a day, prompted me, on my arrival at Malta, to recommend it as an eligible field for an extensive excavation.

“On my return thither, in Jan. 1817, I was surprised, on riding over the ruins, to find that many of the most valuable columns which were standing in the preceding May, had either been removed, or were lying broken on the spot; and even most of those still remaining, had had their astragal and torus chipped off. I discovered, on enquiry, that a report had been circulated by the Tchaouses on my former visit, of an intention to embark them for England; and as it had long been a quarry whence the Arabs supplied themselves with mill-stones, they had, in the interval, been busily employed in breaking up the columns for that purpose, providing not only for the present, but also for a future supply. This extensive destruction was prompted by the peculiar construction of the Moorish oil. mills, they being built with a circular surface, having a gentle inclination towards the centre, round which a long stone traverses, formed by about one-third of a shaft.

“On the 25th, however, having arranged my tents and instruments, I commenced an excavation near the centre of the city, with a party of eight Arabs, whom I increased the following day to a hundred; and as they quickly gained the use of the English spade and mattock, the work proceeded with celerity. But I soon had the mortification of perceiving, from numerous local evidences, that Leptis had been completely ravaged in former times, and its public edifices demolished with diligent labour, owing perhaps to the furious bigotry of the Carthaginian bishops, who zealously destroyed the Pagan monuments in every place under their control. Or it might have been partly effected by the vengeance of the Barbarians for the memorable treachery of the Leptitani. From whatever cause it proceeded, the destruction is complete; most of the statues are either broken to pieces, or chipped into shapeless masses, the arabesque ornaments defaced, the acanthus leaves and volutes knocked off the fallen capitals, and even part of the pavements torn up, the massy shafts of the columns alone remaining entire.

“With a view of gaining further information, I opened an extensive Necropolis, but with little success. There were neither vases nor lachrymatories, but only a coarse species of amphorae and some paterae, with a few coins, neither rare nor handsome, mostly brass, and principally of Severus, Pupienus, Alexander, Julia Mammea. Balbur, and Gordianus Pius. A number of intaglios of poor execution were picked up in different parts, as also some very common Carthaginian medals, but nothing indicating high antiquity or tasteful skill. Willing, however, to make as fair a trial as possible, I continued excavating until the 12th of February, when, having explored the principal basilica, a triumphal arch, a circus, a peristyleum, and several minor structures, with only a strengthened conviction of the precarious chance of recovering any specimens of art worth the labour and expence of enlarged operations, I determined to desist.

“In the course of the excavation I had an opportunity of observing that, the period of the principal grandeur of the city must have been posterior to the Augustan age, and when taste was on the decline; for notwithstanding the valuable materials with which it was constructed, it appears to have been overloaded with indifferent ornament, and several of the mutilated colossal statues I found, were in the very worst style of the Lower Empire. There are also many evidences of the city having been occupied after its first and violent destruction, from several of the walls and towers being built of various architectural fragments confusedly heaped together.

“Although there are several exceedingly fine brick and cementitious edifices, most of the walls, arcades, and public buildings, are composed of massy blocks of freestone and conglomerate, in layers, without cement, or at most with very little. The temples were constructed in a style of the utmost grandeur, adorned with immense columns of the most valuable granites and marbles, the shafts of which consisted of a single piece. Most of these noble ornaments were of the Corinthian order; but I also saw several enormous masses of architecture, ornamented with triglyphs, and two or three cyathiform capitals, which led me to suppose that a Doric temple, of anterior date, had existed there. On a triple plinth near them I observed a species of socle, used in some of these structures as the base of a column, with part of the walls of the Cella, surrounded by a columnar peristyle.

“The city was encompassed by strong walls of solid masonry, pierced with magnificent gates, and was ornamented with spacious porticoes, sufficient portions of which still remain to prove their former splendour. It was divided from its principal suburb to the east by a river, the mouth of which, forming a spacious basin, was the Cothoa, defended at its narrow entrance by two stout fortifications; and branching out from them, may be observed, under water, the remains of two large moles. On the banks of this river, the bed of which is still occupied by a rivulet, are various ruins of aqueducts, and some large reservoirs in excellent preservation. Between the principal cisterns and the torrent to the westward of Leptis, some artificial mounds are constructed across the plain, by which the winter rains were conducted to the reservoirs, and carried clear of the city. On the east bank of the river are remains of a galley-port, and numerous baths, adjacent to a circus, formerly ornamented with obelisks and columns; and above which are vestiges of a theatre. Indeed the whole plain from the Mergip hills to the Cinyphus (now the river Kháhan) exhibits unequivocal proofs of its former population and opulence.

“Thus ended my unsuccessful research; but though no works of art were recovered, many of the architectural fragments were moved during the summer down to the beach, by Colonel Warrington, where I called for and embarked them, on board the Weymouth store-ship, for England; together with thirty-seven shafts, which formed the principal scope of the expedition. Still we were sorry to find, that neither the raft-ports nor the hatchways of the Weymouth were capable of admitting three fine Cipollino colunms of great magnitude, that, from their extreme beauty and perfection, we had been particularly anxious about.”

The fragments of ancient architecture thus rescued from oblivion by Captain Smyth and Colonel Warrington, were for a length of time to be seen in the court-yard of the British Museum; and are now at Windsor. From them, many of the light capitals which decorate the new edifices of our proud metropolis were copied. Nor was the attention of the enterprising and scientific sailor confined to sandy excavations; for we find him employed also in surveying the adjacent country, and, amongst other trips, travelling inland to Ghirza, in quest of the celebrated petrified city, by which he finally settled that amusing paradox.

“During the time that I was excavating amongst the ruins of Leptis Magna, (says he) the Arab Sheiks, who visited my tent frequently, remarked, that I should have a better chance of finding good sculpture in the interior, and made many vague observations on the subject, to which I paid little attention at the time. On my return to Tripoli, however, Mukni, sultan of Fezzan, had just returned from a marauding expedition into the interior; and in a conference I held with him, he assured me that within the last month he had passed through an ancient city, now called Ghirza, abounding in spacious buildings, and ornamented with such a profusion of statues as to have all the appearance of an inhabited place. This account, supported by several collateral circumstances, impressed me with the idea of its being the celebrated Ras Sem, ho confusedly quoted by Shaw and Bruce; and consequently inspired me with a strong desire to repair thither.

“Accordingly Colonel Warrington and I waited on the Bashaw, requesting permission to undertake the journey, with which he immediately complied. Only, as his eldest son, the Bey of Bengazi, was in rebellion against him, and might, by seizing us, demand terms which his Highness would find it difficult to accede to, he wished us to proceed with a small force to the mountains, and there be reinforced according to the actual state of the country. His Highness also signified his desire that Seedy Amouri, his son-in-law, and Seedy Mahomet, his nephew, should accompany us. He moreover furnished us with his Teskerah (an authority for being gratuitously subsisted by the Arabs), though we never used it but to insure a supply, and always made a present in return, proportionate to the value of the articles provided; being of opinion that availing ourselves otherwise of this document would be detrimental to future travellers.

“On the 28th of February, we left Tripoli before sunrise, accompanied by the two Seedies, an escort of Moorish cavalry, and several camels. On the 2d of March we passed an old tower, called Gusser-Kzab, in the plain of Frussa, where, about three years before, a considerable treasure had been discovered in gold and silver coins. Of these, however, I was unable to procure a single specimen, they having been all taken to the coast of Tripoli, where they were most probably melted, and their date and story lost for ever. Proceeding from Frussa over a sterile and fatiguing district, we arrived, about noon on the 3d, at the wadie of Benioleet, where, having been expected, the principal people came out to welcome us, and some met us even as far off as the valley of Mezmouth. This, though only a distance of four or five miles, is a very laborious and dreary ride, over a rocky tract, exhibiting a remarkably volcanic appearance, from a black substance resembling porous lava, lying upon a bed of tertiary limestone, and forming, perhaps, a part of the Harutsch of Horneman.

“Having found several people at Benioleet who had recently arrived from the place I was bound to, I repeated my inquiries respecting the sculpture, and again received positive assurances that I should see figures of men, women, children, camels, horses, and ostriches, in perfect preservation; and the belief of their being petrifactions was so prevalent, that doubts were expressed whether I should be able to remove any one of those whom it had pleased Providence thus to punish for their sins.

“On the 6th, after our party had been joined by three mountain chiefs, with twenty-five janissaries, and fifteen camels laden with water, barley, tents, &c., we proceeded over a hilly and bare country to the southward. On the 8th, having passed the range of Souarat, we advanced through a pretty valley called Taaza, neglected, but evidently capable of improvement, from the luxuriant myrtle, lotus, juniper, cypress, and other plants, nourishing spontaneously. In the evening we arrived at a brackish well of great depth culled Zemzem, from having been blessed by a holy Marabut; and thence is derived the name of the whole wadie, which running towards the north-east reaches the Syrtis below Turghar. Ghirza, the scene of the extraordinary story so extensively propagated, being only three or four miles from this place, occasioned me a restless night: so that early in the morning of the 9th, I eagerly set off over the hills, and after a short ride, the ruins of Ghirza abruptly met my sight.

“I instantly perceived the error of some writers, in ascribing cold springs and moving sands to this spot; for the site is mountainous and bare, presenting only dreary masses of lime and sandstone, intersected with the ramifications of the great wadie of Zemzem. And although I had not allowed my imagination to rise at all in proportion to the exhilarating accounts I had heard, I could not but be sorely disappointed on seeing some ill-constructed houses of comparatively modern date, on the break of a rocky hill, and a few tombs at a small distance beyond the ravine. On approaching the latter I found them of a mixed style, and in very indifferent taste, ornamented with ill-proportioned columns and clumsy capitals. The regular architectural divisions of frieze and cornice being neglected, nearly the whole depth of the entablatures was loaded with absurd representations of warriors, huntsmen, camels, horses, and other animals in low relief, or rather scratched on the freestone of which they are constructed. The pedestals are mostly without a dye, and the sides bore a vile imitation of Arabesque decoration. The human figures and animals are miserably executed, and are generally small, though they vary in size from about three feet and a half, to a foot in height, even on the same tombs, which adds to their ridiculous effect; whilst some palpable and obtruding indecencies render them disgusting.

“Across a fine but neglected valley, to the south-eastward, in which were numerous herds of wild antelopes, and a few ostriches, is a monumental obelisk of heavy proportions; and near it are four tombs, of similar style and ornament with the first set. These are remarkable, however, as more strongly combining a mixture of Egyptian and Greek architecture, and are placed so as to give a singular interest to the scene. There are but three inscriptions, and those are comparatively insignificant; nor can other particulars be learned, the whole of them having been opened, in search, probably, of treasure; but as no person permanently resides near the spot, I was deprived of any local information. A wandering Bedoween, who had been some time in the wadie, brought me a fine medal, in large brass, of the elder Faustina, which he had found in the immediate vicinity.

“The tombs appear to have remained uninjured by the action of either the sun or the atmosphere, excepting only a deep fallow tint they have imbibed; – the sculpture therefore, as we must call it, remains nearly perfect. As these edifices are near the Fezzan road, people from the interior have occasionally tarried to examine them; and being the only specimens of the art they ever saw, yet representing familiar objects, they have described them on their arrival at the coast in glowing colours. It is this nucleus which, rendered more plausible, perhaps, by the story of Nardoun, soon swelled into a petrified city, and at length attracted the curiosity not only of Europe, but obtained universal belief in Africa. It has been deemed a species of pilgrimage to resort thither, as the caravan passes, and inscribe a blessing for the supposed unfortunate petrified Moslems, and with these the pedestals are actually covered. Thus, notwithstanding the diminutive size and despicable execution of these bas-reliefs, the Turks who accompanied me eyed them with admiration and respect, as actual petrifactions, pointing out to my notice that the horses had actually four legs, and other similar trifles. Never, in fact, has a palpable instance occurred to me, so strongly indicative of the degradation of mind inflicted by the Mahometan tenets on its votaries; nor could I but regret to find men, in many respects estimable, so benighted, and so glaringly deficient in the commonest discernment which is bestowed by education.

“Ghirza is situated near some barren hills called Garatilia, in lat. 31° 7' 16" N., long. 14° 40' 50" E.; and from its want of water, and sterile, comfortless appearance, could only have been a military post in communication with Thabunte, and the stations along the shores of the Greater Syrtis. The wadie, indeed, may have been formerly well cultivated, being even now covered with spontaneous vegetation, and flourishing talha, cypress, lotus, and other trees. I observed no traces of roads or aqueducts, during my short stay; but I was too much occupied with my operations for determining the geographical position of the place, to extend my researches to any distance.

“On the 11th, I wished to proceed to Towergha and Mesurata, and thence to Lehida; but we had so many men and camels belonging to Benioleet, that it became necessary to return to that place, which is situated in lat. 31° 46' 38", long. 14° 12' 10". On our arrival there, we found the inhabitants eager to learn our opinion of the petrifactions of Ghirza, and they were evidently chagrined when they found we had brought some specimens away with us, thereby dissolving the favorite axiom respecting the futility of attempting to remove them.

“From Benioleet I went to the north-eastward, in hopes of finding some remains of Talata, Tenadassa, and Syddemis, which were in the chain of communication with the stations of the Syrtis, Cydamus, and the Tritonis; but I met with only a few dilapidated towers, and some uninteresting ruins, which, from the situation, were probably those of Mespe. Thence we crossed the Messellata hills, and near the centre of one of the ramifications observed three slight eminences, which I am inclined to think must have been the Tumuli of the Graces of ancient geographers; though, but for the coincidence of the number, I should scarcely have remarked them. They are about 340 feet in height, and nearly five miles from the coast, thus differing in distance from the ancient account, of 200 stadia; but as the Cinyphus actually rises here, the early manuscripts may have suffered from bad copyists.

“The Cinyphus is now called the Wadie Khàhan, or weak river, an allusion to its sluggish course in summer; though it is still, to a little distance inland, a considerable stream, for this part of the world. Its shrubby banks render the lower part of it extremely picturesque, while both they and the sedgy marshes it has formed towards Tabia point, abound with game of all descriptions. Near the high road from Sahal to Zeliten, the river contracts at once. Here stood an ancient bridge, of which vestiges remain; and adjacent is a tolerable subterraneous aqueduct, running in the direction of Leptis, with a ventilating aperture, at intervals of about forty yards.”

During the period of Captain Smyth’s researches in this part of Northern Africa, discussions of a delicate tenour sometimes arose, either with the natives or the foreign consuls, in all which he adopted such a line of behaviour as to draw the thankful acknowledgment of Colonel Warrington, who in a letter to him says: – “Your very correct and handsome conduct in the support of my consular authority entitles you to my warmest thanks, and has been of the highest advantage to his Majesty’s flag.” The Bashaw also was so contented, that he presented him with a very valuable Turkish scimitar.

Sir Charles Penrose, who had resumed the chief command in the Mediterranean, on Lord Exmouth’s departure for England, after the battle of Algiers, was much pleased with the successful issue of an enterprise, thus voluntarily under-taken and completed, after it had been formally abandoned by an express mission; and in his official letter of thanks to Captain Smyth, he said, – “In acknowledging your despatch of the 9th instant (Nov. 1817), communicating the result of your labours at Lebida, as well as much other highly interesting matter, which you have so skilfully brought forward, I congratulate myself that the undertaking fell to your lot, I shall not fail to transmit to the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, a copy of your report, together with the high sense I entertain of your spirit, talent, and indefatigable exertions.”

From these researches originated the journies afterwards undertaken into the interior of Africa, from Tripoli; and as some curiosity has existed respecting these enterprises, we shall presently insert a few letters that will throw much light thereon.

In the mean time, Captain Smyth had been appointed to the command of the Aid sloop, and she was fitted and sent out to receive his pendant. In that ship we find him proceeding on the important service of fixing astronomically a new series of latitudes and longitudes for all the harbours, headlands, and islands, of the Mediterranean sea. These were known to be singularly erroneous: and he had already amassed considerable materials and data for such an object. About this time, a proposal was submitted to the British Government, for a ship to be sent to the Adriatic, to complete the grand survey of its shores, which had been commenced by the command of Napoleon Buonaparte. Captain Smyth being also appointed to this service, proceeded to execute it, having first embarked on board the Aid a party of Austrian and Neapolitan staff-officers, and taken the Imperial sloop of war Velox, Captain Poelthl, under his orders. By making the utmost use of the means at his disposal, the operations were satisfactorily terminated in less than two years, notwithstanding a dreadful plague was raging along the Albanian shores: – the result of the united labours of himself and his associates have been published at the Imperial Geographical Institute of Milan.

It is a singular historical fact, that Captain Smyth, in a visit to the fortified convent of Stagnewitz, on Monte Negro, so early as the summer of 1818, had the whole plan of the Greek revolution, which broke out in the year 1820, revealed to him; and of which he duly informed the British Government, through Sir Thomas Maitland, then Governor of Malta. He was also one of the party who accompanied Sir Thomas to the court of Ali Pasha, the famous and ferocious Vizier of Albania, to treat respecting the cession of Parga.

We next find Captain Smyth co-operating with Sir Frederick Adam, Lord High Commissioner of the Ionian islands, in suppressing a dangerous insurrection amongst the inhabitants of Santa Maura, and receiving his public acknowledgment for maintaining a rigorous blockade of that island, and helping him to disarm the population of several Greek villages. This was a service of which Vice-Admiral Sir Thomas F. Fremantle observed, “he had acquitted himself well, with very inadequate means.”

On his return home, in 1820, Captain Smyth represented to Viscount Melville, that the operations carried on by Captain Guattier du Parc, of the French navy, in the Archipelago and Levant, were, to his personal knowledge, so scientific and accurate, that it would only be waste of time to go over the same ground; but that their operations, if united, would form a complete basis for the construction of a chart of the whole Mediterranean sea. His lordship was pleased, thereupon, to send him to Paris, with full authority to make such arrangements as should embrace the object. This being accomplished, he was directed to complete his own division of the points more decidedly, and to finish the examination of the coast between Algiers and Egypt

Captain Smyth also had interviews with Lord Melville and the Right Hon. F. J. Robinson, then President of the Board of Trade, on the subject of African explorations. He represented, that, from the kindness he had experienced amongst the Moors and Arabs, he had no doubt but an opportunity was now open to the centre of that vast country and that both the moral and physical difficulties of travelling were much less in North than in West Africa. He also held, that something of a plan might be pursued, from our great influence with the ruling powers, to revive the drooping commerce of Malta, by trading directly with the interior, through Tripoli, – an object the more obvious from that island’s vicinity, and its people having a common language with those of Barbary. He therefore suggested that a person conversant with trade, and of suitable experience, should be attached to the travelling party, with a moderate adventure, in order to give a fair trial to the market, and enable the parties to furnish the public with information upon which the mercantile world could rely. “A field might thus be opened,” said he, “equally accessible to the people of other countries. The day is passed by when privileges are stipulated in treaties, otherwise, if this trade were capable of any extent and duration, that nation which overcame the early obstacles should be entitled to some advantages. I am not one who join in the romantic notion of universal free commerce; and I think that where privileges can, with justice, be secured, it is the duty of a government to do so.”

These suggestions were very favorably received, though various circumstances interfered with their adoption. Some parts of his plan and details, were, however, put into execution, in consequence of the following letter, which he wrote at the instance of Lord Melville.

35, Soho Square, Dec. 31st, 1820.

"My Lord,– In obedience to yonr Lordship’s desire, I venture to place before you my idea on that part of North Africa lying between Tripoli and Egypt, and which, notwithstanding it constituted one of the most interesting sites of antiquity, is unaccountably a perfect blot in the geography of the present day.

“In consequence of a strict attention to the subject, I had reason to think that, on my visit to Tripoli in 1816, no other knowledge existed of those countries extending along the coast from the city of Tripoli to the Arabs Tower in Egypt, than what was gleaned from the Melpomene of Herodotus – excepting indeed the part now called the Gulf of Sidra, which is evidently deduced from the old map of Ptolemy.

“From my numerous enquiries, in various quarters, touching the present state and resources of those parts, and from the aggregate of a variety of conflicting statements, I have reason to imagine that material benefit is likely to accrue from a proper investigation thereof; for it appears that there are certainly several harbours almost unknown to us, of which the principal are those of Bomba, Toubrouk, and Tabraka; and my representation of them appeared in so favorable a light to that excellent officer, Sir Thomas Fremantle, that he directed my utmost attention to them, and to the facilities of procuring timber from certain forests reported to exist in that neighbourhood.

“But as the protection of his Highness, the Bashaw of Tripoli, does not extend beyond Derna, and indeed is only precarious at any distance from Mesurata, a thorough investigation of the shores of the Syrtes, and the whole of the Cyrenaica, becomes an object of serious difficulty, and a perhaps impracticable to a Christian, though the attainment of it certainly promises the gratification of much geographic and historic enquiry.

“I could myself soon fix all the important points on scientific data for the commencement of a coast survey; and a person properly qualified would not only forward the hydrography, but, from thence, could continue those journeys and researches that would be most conducive to add to our general knowledge; and from my long acquaintance with him, I make no hesitation in recommending Lieutenant Lyon as singularly eligible for such a mission, from his natural ardour, his attainments, his professional habits, and above all, his very complete assumption of the Moorish character. After the naval and military objects are considered, a research could be made for the two great Roman roads that led to Cydamis, the present Gadam; a town, I am led to believe, of the utmost importance to travellers in the interior, as being the resort of numerous trading caravans.

“The site of the celebrated altars of the Philaeni would form a satisfactory point; for though they appear no longer to have existed in the time of Strabo, their situation might perhaps be placed by approximation.

“Enquiries might be made respecting the Silphium, a famous shrub which must have existed in abundance, as sugar was made from it; though others report that it bore benzoin and assafoetida; – that marked on the ancient coins, bears a strong resemblance to the large apncynum which grows on most parts of this coast.

“We have no proof respecting the fossil called sal-ammoniac, said by Pliny to have been found in great quantity below the sand, in a district of Cyrenaica.

“Rare coins, and medallions of the Pentapolis, may perhaps be procured, of which the most valuable are those erroneously named Ophellas, especially when large; the usual types arc the head of Ammon, with the Silphium as a reverse, and the legend kυpa or bapk; but those of the state, and not belonging to any individual city, had the word koinon; there is also a silver coin with the Punic characters ____ v15 of tolerable execution.

“Enquiries could also be directed towards the celebrated scarlet dye possessed by those countries so many ages, and of which the Cynoinorium Coccineum is supposed to form the principal ingredient.

“Attention could be paid to the petrified palms and fossils, in the vicinity of Augila, and in fact to the whole detail of the Deserts of Lybia. Of these the vicinity of Cyrene was reported as fertile, well watered, and possessed of forests and pasturages. It is plain to me, that the remains of the city of Cyrene (now called Grenna) are extensive, and that its famous fountain still affords a constant supply of the purest water: views, plans, and copies of inscriptions therefore, in this important place, appear to promise a gratifying illustration of the invaluable writings of Herodotus.

“"The situation of the Garden of the Hesperides, reported to have been near Berenice, would also be a desirable object; as would the complete exploration of Taukra. the ancient Teuchira, and of Tolometa that formed the Port Barca, which I believe possesses tine remains of the magnificence of the Ptolomies.

“After the examination of Cyrenaica, and the Deserts of Barca and Augila, the grand question of the junction of the Nile and the Niger could be considered; and if confidence, ability, and perseverance are applied, I see no chance of a failure. In fact, I must here state my regret that the late expedition for the interior was so hastily formed.

“With a view of further illustrating this matter, I beg leave to subjoin the substance of some enquiries I made from the officers of the Bashaw’s army, who went on an expedition to chastise the Bey of Bengazi, a rebellious son of his Highness, and with whom I was on the point of proceeding, but that my operations at Leptis required my personal attendance. I have many reasons for placing considerable confidence in their replies.

“What towns are there between Ziliten and Mesurata, and what are are their names? ‘Between Ziliten and Mesurata there are no towns, but frequent remains of large buildings.’ What description of buildings? ‘The original forms cannot be observed: the Moors have preserved only some wells of good water.’ Have you observed any ruins near Ziliten? ‘Part of an aqueduct near Wadie Kháhan^{[errata 3]}, and a sort of arch, a little inland.’ What is the probable population of Mesurata? ‘About 90O or 1000, though the Aga who governs can put 1000 cavalriy, and 2000 infantry of the province in a state of service.’ Where are the salterns of Mesurata? ‘The principal are between Zafran and Nahim, though there are others along the Gulf.’ Is the salt mineral or marine? ‘The salt is not mineral, but produced by evaporation in summer; in winter it melts again by more water flowing in.’ But that which I have seen was in long bars? ‘Yes, they cut it in bars for trading, for it is very hard and solid.’ What great towns are there between Mesurata and Bengazi? ‘There is no town or place worthy the name, between Mesurata and Bengazi; nor from thence to Deran.’ How are the shores of the Gulf of Sidra? ‘Generally hard sandy beach, with a low country adjacent, in some parts very rocky.’ Does the Gulf marked on this chart, and called Suca, exist? ‘There is no gulf of that name, the army passed close to the sea where it is marked, and the beach is continuous.’ Are there any ruins on the shores of the Syrtes? ‘Near the above mentioned salterns there are frequent ruins; the most remarkable are to the S.E. of Zafran called Elbenia, and those of Medina Sultan.’ What is their appearance? ‘The former consists of two pilasters with bases of gritstone, and Greek inscriptions much injured. The latter offers vestiges of a large city. There are other ruins at Jhimines and Quabia, two days journey from Bengnzi.’ Does the gulf at the bottom of the Syrtes, called Tinch, exist? ‘It does not; we still continued along the beach; there is however, a large Maremma or marsh, inside where our route led, but it is very hilly beyond it.’ Do you know of any quicksands in that neighbourhood? ‘There is a considerable tract of fine impalpable sand, that mores with tempests.’ What is the situation of the moving sands, and are there marshes there? ‘The moving sands extend from Ain-Agan to Areys, occupying a greater or less width along the coast from the sea, towards the interior; but at Albasce there is a long streak stretching many leagues inland, very fine and of the colour of brick, whereas the other is white as snow, there are some very extensive salt-marshes at Ain-Agan and Bagomora, two hours S.E. of Manhoel.’ What is the nature of the coast in the direction of the moving sands? ‘Only the surface of the coast is covered with sand below, it consists of a hard grit-stone.’ Which is the site of the Garden of the Hesperides? ‘They lie about two hours from Bengazi, and have no trees, only a few shrubs grow there.’ But what is there remarkable to point the place out? ‘Many deep grottoes, some wells of excellent water, and vestiges of canals to carry water all over the gardens.’ Is there not a wood in the vicinity? ‘No timber fit for building, nothing but a grove of stunted cypress.’ But I have heard from the Bey of Derna, Mourad Reis, and others, that a large forest existed somewhere in that part? ‘I believe there is, farther over toward Bomba, but we did not go so far.’ Have you heard of this forest? ‘Very frequently, and that the wood is fit for large ships.’ What kind of a town is Bengazi? ‘Not so flourishing as formerly; it has a tolerable castle and small port, mud houses, and about lOOO inhabitants.’ Are there any vestiges of the ancient Berenice? ‘A few slight ones, – cameos and intaglios are frequently found, and a hill near the sea is supposed to contain riches, as gold is often picked up after heavy storms.’ Can refreshments be procured there? ‘Sheep, cattle, and corn, but no fruit.’ Why have they not oranges, as they grow so well at Tripoli? ‘They never had any, so do not feel the want of them.’ What kind of places are Tolometa and Taukra? ‘Taukra is a walled town, with many inscriptions; but has few things of architectural beauty except some vine branches entwined in low relief on the pieces of a pediment of grit, or stone of the country. It is built on the sea shore, on a small plain^{[errata 4]} bounded on the south by stony mountains bearing the low cypress trees. Tolometa is at the foot of the chain of mountains that extends from Bengazi to Bomba; it offers few vestiges, except some columns of grit-stone belonging to a Corinthian portico, and the tombs of the kings in the Elysian Fields.’ What is there at Barca, and are there any inhabitants? ‘Barca is now only a mountain of stones and ruins at the head of a fine valley, with a great many wells of good water, for which reason it is much frequented by the Arabs.’ Are the Arabs as trusty as those of Mesurata? ‘No, they are exceedingly treacherous, and capable of committing murder for a mere gilt button.’ Would they respect the usual laws of hospitality? ‘Most probably they would, even against their desire.’ Have you seen the harbour called Marza Suza? ‘I have seen Suza, the sea has intersected almost all the town: there are many ruins, little of moveable things there are now only to be seen a few columns of marble granite, and grit-stone belonging to its temples.’ Is it easy to reach Cyrene, on the side of Bengazi? ‘From Bengazi to Cyrene is six summer days’ journey, and the road leads through cypress woods, and fine mountain valleys: it is not difficult.’ Is Cyrene far from Derna? ‘Cyrene is a long day and a half from Derna, over some stony mountains of extremely difficult ascent, through woods of cypresses, and places inhabited by wandering Arabs.’ What aspect has the land about here from the sea? ‘The sea is almost every where bounded by steep mountains of rock, in the fissures of which grow cypresses and some other trees.’ What state is Cyrene in? I have heard the town is entire. ‘The town is nearly destroyed, but the ruins and isolated tombs, or Mansolaea are extensive; – the finest part is the Camp of Mars, on account of the numerous streets of tombs cut in the rocky mountains. The various ruins make it extremely easy to determine the limits of the city.’ Do you recollect any temples there? ‘The ruins of a temple near the fountain are partly buried; and all there is remaining in sight are some columns and several statues, the latter so mutilated that they look like amorphus blocks of marble. Excavation in this part would probably be very productive.’ Does the fountain still afford good water, and are there any inhabitants in Cyrene? ‘The fountain always gives abundance of the purest water, for which reason there are always upwards of four or five hundred Arab tents in the town.’ What is the population of Derna? ‘Emigration and the plague have reduced it to about 360 souls.’ Are there still any troglodytes, or inhabitants of caves, and are they numerous? ‘The district between Marza Suza and Cyrene is full of caverns in the very heart of the mountains, into which whole families get by means of ropes, and many are born, live, and die in these dens without ever going out of them; their Bedouin relations in the neighbourhood provide them with food, and there preserve their property from the raping of inimical tribes; the friendly Arabs collect in these holes a sufficiency of water for all their wants.’ What is the disposition of these people? ‘They are savage, untractable, and dangerous, the government of the country itself never having been able to reduce them.’ Do you consider a landing at Bomba as safe? ‘Being situated on the limits of Tripoli and Cairo, it is inhabited by tribes that have been driven away by their respective governments, so that they continually molest pacific tribes, and the caravans destined for Mecca.’

“Such, my Lord, is the sum of the most direct and credible information I have been able to collect; besides which I have made many other enquiries, and have also constructed a map of the march of the said army, by inference; but I hope I have shewn your Lordship that this interesting portion of geography (seated so near to civilized Europe) need no longer remain a blank; and also that its examination may lead to satisfactory ulterior results, at to the confluence of the Nile and the Niger, and the actual state of the level of the countries south of Bournou, compared with Abyssinia, and the west coast of Africa. And this, if I may be allowed to express my opinion, is the only practicable road to Europeans, – for I have ever considered the difficulties and diseases, incident to the swampy banks of rivers in a tropical climate (at all times replete with decomposing vegetable substances), so insurmountable, that I have never been surprised at their failure.

“I have the honor to subscribe myself, my Lord, your Lordship’s most obedient, &c. &c.

“W. H. Smyth.”

“Right Hon. Lord Viscount Melville,
&c. &c. &c.

In the ulterior arrangement of this design, Lieutenant Frederick William Beechey, who had recently returned from the Polar Seas, received the appointment of assistant-surveyor to Captain Smyth, whose friend, Lyon, was selected to command one of the discovery ships then fitting out under the orders of Captain Parry. Henry W. Beechey, Esq. a brother to the lieutenant, who had acquired considerable proficiency in Arabic by a long residence in Egypt, joined the enterprise; and to these gentlemen were added Lieutenant Henry Coffin, R.N. a volunteer; Mr. John Campbell, assistant-surgeon; and Mr. Edward Tyndall, midshipman of the Adventure ; for which ship Captain Smyth received his commission in Jan. 1821. Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin also left England in the Adventure, as a passenger, but quitted her sooner than he originally intended, owing to the plague then raging on the African shore.

We are, as yet, unacquainted with the whole of the reasons which operated in preventing the fulfilment of this very promising mission: for it appears, by the orders which Captain Smyth addressed to Lieutenant Beechey, that the original intention embraced a wider sphere of action than what it was afterwards limited to; and geography and the classic arts will long have to regret such a meritorious object being frustrated. The following is an extract from that document:

H.M.S. Adventure, Tripoli, Sept. 18th, 1821.

“Sir,– As it appears to me that several delays, incident to the nature of the service you are about to proceed upon, will at present retard your departure from Tripoli, and as the summer is fast expiring, I consider it most conducive to the tenor of my instructions, to proceed forthwith to sea, in order to commence the survey where I discontinued it in 1817; noting, however, that in consequence of your appointment, I shall attempt only at ascertaining the latitudes and longitudes of the several capes and headlands, with a connecting coast line as the basis of a general chart, leaving the geographical and particular detail for your research, as the season most favorable for such operations is the one that obliges us to haul off the coast.

“The main point, therefore, is to get the nautical portion completed as quickly as possible; and from weighing well the nature of the means at our disposal, I think the wishes of the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty will best be answered by a coast journey as far as Derna, the eastern limit of the Bashaw’s dominions; and from thence the shore party to strike to the southward, and explore the regions of the Cyrenaica, and the desert of Barca, varying the direction of your interesting route according to existing circumstances, and the local value of the objects in view.

“And as several interruptions and digressions, on a general plan of procedure, are liable to arise in an undertaking of this magnitude, it is difficult to calculate upon the event; but as the limits of Egypt and Tripoli are ill defined on the sea-coast, and the frontiers of each are the resort of ferocious outlaws from both countries, I think the experience of Mr. Henry Beechey will be best exerted in passing from the desert of Barca, by Augila, and the petrified palm valley, to the Oasis of Siwah and Egypt, where, from his intimate acquaintance with the respective authorities, he will be enabled to procure the proper protection and necessary guards for returning along that part of the coast lying between Alexandria and Bomba. After which I would recommend the mountain track to Tripoli, by which she whole eastern division of the Regency will be completely investigated, and its antiquities, geography, and resources made known.

“To accomplish therefore the first object, I shall proceed to sea as soon as the preliminary arrangements are adjusted, and I have received the Chiaux on board, and proceed along the coast to Mesurata, where I shall remain for your arrival, and send my boats in quest of an anchorage further in the Gulf of Syrtis; you will therefore lose no time in getting ready to meet me at that place, in order to concert a simultaneous movement from thence to Bengazi. But if, from any of the impediments attendant on these excursions, you should be unable to arrive in a given time, and facilities offer themselves to me, I shall continue the operations, leaving, however, the necessary communications with the Reis or Scheick.

“The point where your co-operations in this part will prove most essentially necessary, is the south-eastern extreme of the great gulf, where the altars of the Philaeni were erected; but which, from the substance of all the information I can collect, is at present a marshy waste: here, if I cannot bring the vessel, it will be very necessary to have an observed latitude, by a mean of two or three meridian altitudes, and a longitude by inference, from our nearest chronometric positions. It may be as well to mention in this place, that the determination from which the whole will be deduced, is that of the Bashaw’s castle in Tripoli, which by the mean of numerous observations, I place in latitude 32° 53' 56" N., longitude 13° 10' 58" E. of Greenwich, and the magnetic variation 16° 38' westeriy.

“In the course of your joint researches among the ruins of Arsinöe, Ptolometa, Teuchira, Cyrene, Berenice, aud the Hesperides, you will probably discover various objects of taste; these you will be enabled to transport to Bengazi, and deposit in the house of Rossoni, the British vice-consul, until some further arrangements can be made respecting them.

(Signed)“W. H. Smyth.”

On the same day, Captain Smyth wrote to the secretary of the Admiralty, as follows:

“Sir,– I have the honor to acquaint you, for the information of my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, that I arrived at this port on the 10th instant; but as his Highness the Bashaw was confined to his chamber by a severe attack of rheumatism, I was unable to see him for several days. On the 15th, however, I accompanied Colonel Warrington to an audience, when his Highness was pleased to express himself particularly gratified at my return to the Regency, after so long an absence; and on our introducing the Messrs. Beechey to him, he in the kindest manner promised his protection and assistance to their undertaking, and repeating bis former professions to me, made all the necessary arrangements I could desire.

“In the afternoon, I disembarked the four small field-pieces I had brought from England, at the cove under the castle, and saluted the Bashaw and his family, who were sitting in a balcony overlooking them; and having harnessed some stout mules, put them through various evolutions: and on the whole his Highness was so much gratified, that he sent a sabre to the gunner, and five hundred piastres as a present for the seamen and marines who had landed. I am the more minute in these particulars in order to ground my conviction, that, from the Bashaw’s predilection for the British, and his personal esteem for our Consul-General, any views of my Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, respecting discoveries in the Regency, may be easily put in execution. But a practical knowledge of Turkish character is a great requisite in the explorers; and they should suffer themselves to be imposed upon, even with their eyes open, in immaterial points, in order to gain the grand objects: for the Moors, in particular, being subtle and avaricious, and at the same time ignorant, are extremely addicted to petty chicanery.

“I have the honor to enclose a copy of the instructions I have given Lieutenant Beechey; and I hope, by the time of our arrival at Bengazi and Derna, the plague now raging there will have ceased; if not, I must make such alterations in the arrangements as may appear best calculated for forwarding the objects of the mission. I have the honor to be, &c.

(Signed)“W. H. Smyth.”

“To J. W. Croker, Esq.”

The subsequent proceedings of the Adventure were reported to the Admiralty in two letters, of which the following are copies:–

“Malta, Dec. 21st, 1821.

“Sir,– After my letter of the 18th of September, from Tripoli, I made every exertion for prosecuting the service entrusted to my charge; and having revisited Rasal Hamra, Leptis Magna, Port Magra, Ziliten, and Mesurata, was enabled to compare and correct our former obsereations. Off the latter place we encountered a heavy scirocco, with very fresh breezes and a high sea, by which we were prevented from entering into the Gulf of Sidra, from the 8th to the 17th of Octoher, when the weather clearing up, we ran in by the Date-tree station, and anchored on an immense sand bank at Isa, in a dreary and exposed berth; but, I believe, in excellent ground, and where, from its extent, the sea does not roll home. Our situation was in lat. 31° 37' 46" N., and long. 15° 29' 45" E., in six fathoms water, about two miles from the shore.

“From Isa we explored the coast for about fifty miles to the S.E., but could find no place to shift the ship to, the bank deepening to a loose gravelly ground, at a few miles from the anchorage, and nothing to be seen but a continued monotonous, melancholy coast, entirely destitute of feature, and so low as to justify the old character of these shores, being ‘neither land nor sea,’ but in every direction exhibiting vast salt plains of what is usually termed ‘drowned land,’ while the occasional ravages of the surf are fully apparent; and the whole is so strewed with wrecks, that we not only procured as many good spars as we could stow, but wooded ourselves, and might with equal ease have wooded the whole squadron.

“I had heard of a central shoal, to the south of which, it was reported, a ship might anchor, and I resolved to endeavour to gain it; but on coming to the point, the pilots flatly refused to take any charge of the ship farther into the gulf at such an advanced season. I was therefore obliged to stand out towards the eastern shores, with a view of finding an anchorage somewhere to the southward of Bengazi, from whence we might continue boat surveys; but was again disappointed, as Bengazi itself had scarcely two fathoms water in its port. I was consequently obliged to remain off and on the several capes, landing at such intervals as the boisterous weather and rough sea permitted; and we thus explored, and have been able to complete a nautical chart, from Tripoli to Bomba, with the exception of a low line of beach, forming the bottom of the Syrtis, between Carcöra and the Ahab beach; and this, as the pilots were alarmed, and I could not place much reliance on the qualities of the ship, while above all we felt the want of a tender, I was obliged to relinquish. I, however, left a note at Bengazi, for Mr. Beechey, detailing my movements and progress, and desiring him to fill up that coast line; and I trust, when the vernal equinox has passed, to examine the large shoal, and complete the undertaking. As whatever exists ought to be known, this will be a necessary operation; but from what I have seen, and from what I can collect, I cannot promise their Lordships that any naval object of importance is likely to reward the examination.

“The port, or rather bay of Bomba, proved to be the first place where a ship can possibly anchor, in winter months, to the eastward of Isa; and the two are the only safe anchorages for a squadron between Tunis and Egypt. Of these, therefore, we have made trigonometrical surveys; but the intervals between them are mere coast examinations, by a patent log adjusted to our astronomical measurements. We were prevented from a more detailed operation, from being obliged to keep the sea, from the plague existing in the neighbourhood, and from the dread often entertained by the Arabs that we were Greeks.

“The eldest son of the Bashaw of Tripoli, who was in rebellion when I left the Regency, has, by a clemency very rare amongst Turks, been pardoned, and appointed Bey of Derna. This prince, at my request, prohibited the natives of his district from entering into any communication with us; and he also despatched a Chiaux with a letter from me to Mr. Beechey; but I learned, that up to the 6th of December, that gentleman had not arrived at Bengazi.

“Having proceeded beyond the boundary of the regency, we found that a quarrel had taken place between two of the Arab tribes, in which five men who claimed the protection of the Bey of Derna were killed. I had received a notice of so many instances of treachery near these ill-defined boundaries, that I was extremely on my guard against surprise; but, notwithstanding precautions, our Turkish pilot was carried off, as I suspect, by the inimical Arabs, as an hostage, they being aware that he was also acting as a Chiaux of the Bashaw. Finding I could not proceed further to the eastward without a proper authority from Egypt, I proceeded to Tripoli, where, having landed the Chiaux and the gulf pilot, and having arranged with the consul for measures respecting the poor fellow we had lost, I returned to this port.

“As Mr. Beechey will probably be in Alexandria early in March, I propose submitting to Vice-Admiral Sir Graham Moore, that after completing the repairs, provisions, and water, it will be an object for me to meet the party there, in order that I may give them the coast chart to lay their surveys upon, and also that I may procure the necessary facilities to explore the unknown coast between Bomba and the Arabs’ tower.

“From vestiges in some places where we landed, I have every reason to believe the expedition of Mr. Beechey will prove highly interesting; and from a great number of large trees lying at the meeting of several fiumare^{[errata 5]} near Cape Razat, I think it highly probable that a forest will be found: but the nautical detail is most unimportant. I have the honor to be, &c.

(Signed)“W. H. Smyth.”

“To J. W. Croker, Esq.”

“H.M.S. Adventure, Derna, May 28th, 1822.

“Sir,– I have the honor to inform their lordships, that having completed the survey of the harbours of Alexandria, I obtained a firman from the Bashaw of Egypt for the safe conduct of the Messrs. Beechey from the Cyrenaica to the eastward, and immediately made sail and stood along the coast, in prosecution of the service entrusted to me. I have the satisfaction to add, that the whole line of coast between Tripoli and Alexandria is now completed, with particular plans of the bays and harbours, and the positions correctly ascertained as to latitude and longitude of the different capes and headlands, agreeably to the first paragraph of their Lordships’ instructions. And this, I am happy to say, has been effected in spite of an almost constant opposition on the part of the natives of the region between the Arabs’ tower and Bomba, a wild race of nomadic tribes, from whose hostility we have luckily received no accident, although I was nearly cut off at Toubrouk, in company with Lieutenant Michael Atwell Slater, by a party of four or five hundred Bedouins, and only owed my escape to the excellence of the gig that rowed through their fire, until the barge, well manned and armed, under Mr. Thomas Elson, (acting master) drove them back amongst the ruins.

“These shores offer but little after leaving Alexandria, until arriving at Saloume, a large bay, where a fleet might be secured from westerly gales; and from thence to Bomba nothing intervenes except Toubrouk, a really superb port, and by far the best on the whole coast of Barbary. It is two miles deep and one wide, with an outer road of five or six miles to the eastward, where is a reef of rocks two miles and a half long, carrying from 3 feet to 3 fathoms water, effectually breaking off the sea from that quarter. Inside the reefs are regular soundings of from 14 to 8 fathoms, and within the harbour there is not a shoal-bank, or danger of any kind, but a vessel may anchor at will, in from 12 to 5 fathoms. This harbour is particularly adapted for a squadron, as there are a number of fine sandy coves on each side, where boats, &c. may be hauled up to repair. Water I could not find, for it was unsafe to venture from the harbour hills – the whole country being in arms; but from the fissures in the mountains, branching out into wide fuimare, I am confident the winter streams are Abundant. At the N.W. end of the port is a Roman fortification, in tolerable preservation; it is nearly 200 paces on each side, with four gates; the walls are of large square stones, strengthened with towers that are ascended by ramps. There are large cisterns and magazines, and the whole is in such a state as to offer no inconsiderable advance towards a new establishment. I found by accident, for I had not leisure for research, many fragments of lamps, lachrymatoria, and amphira, and also two coins of the Emperor Probus, which, with the appearance of the architecture, stamps the probable date of the settlement.

“Cattle and sheep may be procured in any quantity at Bomba and Derna; and at the latter place, if visited as a summer anchorage, water of the very finest quality is to be had from running streams (a phenomenon in these regions) with an abundant supply of grapes, bananas, almonds, oranges, apricots, and other fruit. Corn is in great plenty, and remarkably cheap.

“The hills from Derna towards Grenna^{[errata 6]}, or Cyrene, are wooded in various parts; but the culling of timber would be attended with considerable difficulty for many localities, though perhaps at Apollonia, how Marza Suza, it might be managed. The wood appears useful for various purposes, and might even afford crooked timber for knees, but not for stem and stern-posts, nor keel pieces; while for plank, I saw nothing that would side more than 8 or 9 inches.

“On my arrival at Bomba, I found the accompanying letter had been left for me; and, as soon as the weather permitted, I repaired from thence to Derna, where I was soon joined by Messrs. Beechey. Now as my duty on these coasts was completed, with the exception of a boat cruise round the Syrtis, which was preparing, I would have immediately embarked the whole party; but I considered it was now actually in the Cyrenaica, between the two trading ports of Derna and Bengazi, which offered the means of a passage to Malta, without the tedious and expensive journey to Tripoli, it would be more in consonance with the public service for them to remain and examine, at least this interesting region, which could be well accomplished during the present summer. Of the necessity of this their lordships will be further convinced when I inform them, that Cyrene is situated in a most luxuriant country, totally different in feature, climate, and resources, to any thing between Karamania and Tunis; alternately presenting hill, vale, wood, and pasture, and irrigated by copious running streams. In the city itself, the Messrs. Beechey have already found two or three statues; and as there are two theatres, an amphitheatre, and a stadium, that have never been examined, I considered, that even if the expedition went no further in its mission, these at least ought to be examined. To lessen in some measure the expence, I embarked Mr. Tyndall, but left the Messrs. Beechey, Lieutenant Coffin, and Assistant-Surgeon Campbell, to complete the research.

“The only difficulty that arose from the uncertainty of the intention of Lord Bathurst, respecting Mr. Henry Beechey, was, as to what extent he is to excavate, and how he is to embark the produce of his labour. I recommended, at any rate, the examination of the theatres and stadium, as such edifices were never without valuable ornaments; and if he could muster enough for the cargo of a bombard or small vessel, to hire one at Bengazi, as the expence would be trifling to Malta; but that if the specimens appeared to be at all comparable to the chefs-d’oeuvre of Grecian art, to remain until instructions respecting them arrived; because, if they were left only a few days, the Arabs would mutilate them. I should myself have delighted to have gone and assisted this part of the operation; but as it is likely to take place in August, the month of all others necessary for the examination of the shoals of the Skerki, I considered the fourth paragraph of their Lordships’ instructions so imperative, and of such importance, as totally to preclude it. I have the honor to be, &c.

(Signed)“W. H. Smyth.”

“To J. W. Croker, Esq.^[5]”

Except a few occasional shot from roving Arabs at the boats, Captain Smyth generally carried on his survey in great harmony with the Moorish chiefs; but during the progress of the Greek insurrection, some of the most bigotted of the Mahometans assumed so insolent a tone and gesture, that the arrival of the Adventure was always extremely welcome to the Frank settlers. By understanding and managing their various prejudices, but few disputes occurred, until one evening at Tunis, shortly after intelligence had been received of the burning of the Turkish admiral’s ship, a party watering under Cape Carthage was attacked, and the boatswain nearly strangled. Aware that decisive measures only could check Moorish excesses, Captain Smyth made instant arrangements for placing the Goletta in a state of embargo; but before proceeding to extremities, he applied in form, through the consul, for immediate redress: and as the summary procedure of a despot differs so essentially from our legal investigations, the demand and result are here inserted:–

H.B.M. Ship Adventure, Tunis Bay, Sept. 13th. 1822.

“Sir,– When I sent to you yesterday evening, respecting the violence committed on my boat’s crew at the watering place, I was not aware that the dastards were other than common people; but to my surprise I learn, that some of them are actually seedies in the suite of his Highness the Bey. This, of course, so aggravates the offence, that I must have a most unequivocal and decided answer, as to whether they had any instructions to commit so flagrant an outrage.

“You will therefore acquaint his Highness, that I was in hopes to represent his various attentions in such a light as to procure a favorable acknowledgment from our Government; and that I cannot but lament the occurrence which threatens a breach. But, inform him, when un-armed Englishmen are brutally attacked, it becomes both my duty and inclination, that such insult is not committed with impunity. And you will further acquaint his Highness, that had I seen the affair from the ship, I would instantly have landed to rescue my men, and the blood consequently spilled would, of course, be on the heads of the aggressors.

“I can, even now, take ample satisfaction for the insult, but that I cannot think the conduct of individuals, however base, should interrupt the existing harmony, without first awaiting an explanation; and also, that I trust his Highness will render such satisfaction to the British flag as may meet the approbation of Vice-Admiral Sir Graham Moore, my commander-in-chief. I have the honor to be, &c.

(Signed)“W. H. Smyth, Commander.”

“To Alexander Tulin, Esq.
H.B.M. Consul.”

(Answer).
(Received at 10 o’clock next morning).

“Marsa, 14th September, 1822.

“Sir,– I have the honor to communicate to you the result of my audience of his Highness the Bey, this morning, here at Marsa.

“Not having failed to explain to him, in every respect, the contents of your letter of yesterday, his Highness, in the first instance, has desired me to tell you, in the most decided terms, that far from having given instructions to any one to molest, in the slightest way, the English seamen, he feels, on the contrary, extremely sorry at what has happened, and requests you will accept his apology for the atrocious act committed on your men.

“As a proof of his disapprobation of the occurrence, and to shew his desire of giving you every satisfaction in his power, his Highness ordered three hundred bastinadoes to be given to each the aggressors, publicly, in the presence of himself, myself, and the whole of his court; which sentence, I have the honor to add, I have seen duly executed. The aggressors were then put into irons, and are to remain so long as you may desire. I have the honor to be, &c.

(Signed)“Alex. Tulin, H.B.M. Consul.”

“To Captain Smyth, H.M.S. Adventure.”

At Alexandria, Captain Smyth became acquainted with that extraordinary character, Mehemed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt, a ruler whose genius and spirit of enterprise have commanded so much attention. He found him extremely interested and inquisitive on all points of naval discipline and economy, as well as in matters of science and general knowledge; and in the various interviews that ensued, his Highness was pleased to adopt several measures of importance, from the suggestions of Captain Smyth. He had been particularly struck with the disorganised state of the Turkish marine, when he saw the Adventure come into port after a heavy gale (Mar. 1822), in so different a style from their fleet, which on that occasion had lost two frigates, three corvettes, and a brig, with nearly 800 men, while almost every other ship and vessel suffered in spars, &c. When Captain Smyth succeeded in placing his large theodolite on the top of Pompey’s Pillar, the astonished Viceroy exclaimed to the Turkish officers around him, – “Look! do you wonder that these Christians excel us.”

Mehemed Ali had previously offered “Cleopatra’s Needle” to Captain Smyth, as a present to King George IV., and he now volunteered to assist him in the embarkation of the fallen obelisk, adding, that he would instantly construct a pier from where it was lying, into the centre of the port. The attempt was only postponed for official authority, and afterwards circumstances prevented the Adventure’s return to Alexandria, or it would certainly have been undertaken, – for Captain Smyth had viewed it as an erroneous postulate to doubt of success, especially on comparing our naval means with those which the ancients possessed when they transported still larger masses to Rome. On his return to England, in 1824, he waited on Mr. Herries, at the Treasury, and made such representations that another naval officer. Captain Arbuthnot, was appointed to proceed to Egypt; but we are not aware why so noble a memorial of antiquity is not now decorating the British metropolis.

Captain Smyth was the senior naval officer at Gibraltar, in 1824, when a body of constitutionalists, under the command of Don Francisco Valdes, surprised Tariffa; and as they were known to have sallied from the rock, General Latour, commander of the French troops at Cadiz, and the Spanish General Don Jose O’Donell, were bitterly enraged. Amongst the consequences that ensued. Captain Smyth was involved in a disagreeable correspondence; scarcely a boat could move without giving oflFcnce to one or other of the parties; and a French man of war was stationed off Cabritta point, to report every motion in the bay. On the 11th of August, the Earl of Chatham sent a report on board the Adventure, stating that the constitutionalists had insulted the British flag, by firing at a merchant vessel, and carrying her under their fortress; whereupon the Pandora sloop was sent over by Captain Smyth to demand an explanation. This was construed by the French and Spanish authorities into an act of supplying the “rebels” with arms and provisions; and every means were resorted to for making an unfavorable impression. At length, after two ineffectual attempts, the French stormed Tariffa on the 19th, when Valdes and many of his adherents escaped to Tangier; but about 150 were made prisoners and taken to Algeziras, where O’Donell ordered 36 of them to be shot on the 23d and 24th of the same month. This merciless order was executed in sight of the Adventure; the rest of the unhappy captives were confined in dungeons to await a formal trial. One of the victims was a Gibraltar Jew, who, by an obsolete inquisition law, which on this occasion O’Donell revived, was sentenced to be burnt alive for appearing in Spain, unless he embraced Christianity: this the unfortunate wretch professed to do; but, after having gone through the forms of solemn abjuration, he was shot on the following morning. Nor was this all, for as if to brand the whole affair with infamy, a poor young woman, whose only crime was attachment to her husband, was put to death along with the others.

We next find Captain Smyth, conjointly with Captain H. E. P. Sturt, of the Phaeton frigate, receiving the thanks of the United States’ consul at Gibraltar, and of eleven masters of American merchantmen, for their prompt, though unavailing efforts, to save a ship in flames from destruction, on the 19th of Sept. 1824. About the same time, the Phaeton was struck by lightning, and set on fire, while lying in the new mole, alongside the Adventure.

Having completed his operations, which together with those of Captain Francis Beaufort, in the Archipelago and Asia Minor, and of Captain Guattier du Parc, in the Archipelago, Levant, and Black Sea, fix and determine every part of the Mediterranean and Euxine, from the Gut of Gibraltar to the Sea of Azof, Captain Smyth returned home, and the Adventure was paid off in November, 1824. On making an official report of what he had accomplished, he stated – “It is with pleasure I am able to add, that though, from the very nature of my mission, I have been obliged to hang on lee-shores and coasts, little known to, and therefore avoided by other navigators, this service has been effected, not only without the ship having touched the ground, but without the loss of a spar, a sail, a cable, or an anchor.”

The charts and plans of Captain Smyth’s gigantic undertaking are now constantly used by the British, French, American, and Russian squadrons in the Mediterranean; and we perceive how highly they are appreciated by discerning officers, whose letters are before us: but by none have they been more warmly or liberally hailed than by the scientific Captain Beaufort, – himself an acknowledged first-rate hydrographer, – “The more I see of your Mediterranean surveys,” he observes, “the more I admire the great extent of your labours – the perseverance of your researches – the acuteness of your details – and the taste with which you have executed the charts. Take them altogether, no survey has ever before issued from the Admiralty that can be compared to yours. It is quite astonishing the work that you did, – and did in such a masterly manner, in the time you were abroad.”

As this service, though originating in the efforts, and at the expence, of an individual, cannot but be deemed honorable to the naval profession at large, we take pleasure in shewing how it has been mentioned in the widely circulated journal of the celebrated Baron de Zach.

Vol. I. p. 69. – “M. le Capitaine Guillaume Henry Smyth, de la Marine Royale de S.M. Britannique, chargé par son gouvernement d’une mission astronomique, geographique, et hydrographique dans al mer Mediterranée, pour y déterminer des positions, lever les plans des co^tes, rades, ports, &c. arriva avec sa corvette au mois de Février dans la port de Gênes; il veut me trouver, et j’eus l’honneur et l’avantage de faire la connoissance personelle de ce respectable officier, infiniment instruit, non seulement dans les pratiques de son état, mais dans plusieurs autres branches de sciences et de littérature, qu’on ne cherche pas, et qu’on trouve plus rarement encore, chez un bon marin. Assurément on ne pouvait confier une expédition aussi importante à un navigateur plus habile, plus expert, et plus zélé que le Capitaine Smyth. Il est muni à son bord d’une quantité de bons instrumens, sextans et circles de réflexion, horizones artificiels, théodolites, lunettes de toule espèce, garnies de micromètres, montre-marines, &c.”

And again in Vol. IV. p. 113, the Baron says:

“Le 12 du mois d’Aout, M. le Capitaine Smyth, est venu rélâcher avec son observatoire flottant dans le port de Gênês. j’ai eu la seconde fois le plaisir et l’avantage de revoir, et de n’entretenir avec ce marin distingué sous tant d rapports. Cet habile officier a eu la bonté de me communiquer, et de me faire voir avec sa franchise ordinaire, tous les travaux qu’il a fait depuis que nous nous sommes vus la dernière fois. Il m’a montré tous ses journaux, observations, plans, cartes, soit gravées soit dessinées, il n’avait rien de caché ni pour moi, ni pour personne. Il ne craint pas les communications; sûr de son fait, ses travaux peuvent supporter l’oeil du scrutateur. Il ne fait aucun mystère de ses observations, car les Anglais ne pensent pas que des longitudes, des latitudes, des azimuts, des bases, et des triangles peuvent être des secrets d’état. Les mystères, les cachotteries, les retenues en ces choses, ne décèlent souvent qu’une mauvaise conscience, et un manque de confiance dans ses moyens, et ne font nâitre que des soupçons souvent bien fondés.”

In 1815, Captain Smyth received the royal permission to accept and wear the insignia of a K.F.M.; obtained two honorable augmentations to his family arms; and was admitted by the hero of Acre into the “Anti-Piratical Society of Knights Liberators of the Slaves (white and black) in Africa,” instituted by the Allied Sovereigns, at Vienna, in the preceding year; those absent, being represented by their elder sons, or competent personages. The Emperor of Austria subsequently presented him with a gold snuff-box, superbly decorated with brilliants; and he had also the satisfaction of finding that the Kings of Naples and Sardinia, as well as the late Pope, Pius II, were personally interested in the success of his operations, of which he received proofs, in various acts of condescension and kindness. Among other gratifying marks of remembrance from those who had watched his pursuits, we perceive one in his letter book, written by the Crown Prince of Denmark, which we take the liberty of transcribing.

“Au Chateau de Sorgenfrey, ce 11 Oct. 1825.

“Monsieur, – Vous avez bien jugé de l’interêt que je prends à vos travaux hydrographiques en croyant qu’il me feroit plaisir d’en avoir une copie. Celle qui vous avez bien voulu m’adresser en date du 5 Juillet, réunit au merite scientifique, celui de me rappeler l’aimable complaisance de son auteur; aussi j’ai je reçue avec une satisfaction toute particulière, et je vous prie, Monsieur, d’en agréer l’expression.

“Ce n’est pas que je croye m’aquitter de l’obligation qu’un envoi si important m’impose; – c’est uniquement dans l’interêt de la science et en supposant qu’il vous fera plaisir d’en connôitre les progrès chez nous, que je fais joindre à la présente les dernieres cartes hydrographiques qui ont paru à Copenhague, savoir: les côtes de l’Island en les feuilles et un partie de celles de la Groenlande en le feuille avec des memoires illustratifs. Veuillez accepter ces echantillons des nombreux travaux de notre célèbre vétéran M. de Loevenoeru! Vous saurez en apprécier le merite.

“Je vous prie de faire les complimens de Me. mon epouse et les miens à Mrs. Smyth, et d’agréer l’assurance sincere de la haute considération avec laquelle je suis, Monsieur, votre bien affectionné,

(Signed)“Christian Frédéric.”

“À Monsieur,
M. W. H. Smyth, Capitaine de la M.R.”

In 1821, Captain Smyth was admitted into the Antiquarian and Astronomical Societies of London; his promotion to post rank took place on the 7th Feb. 1824; he was unanimously elected a F.R.S. in June, 1826, on a suspension paper spontaneously signed by the noblest names which enrich the scientific records of the nation; and on the last day of the same year, he was voted a member of the society, then recently established at Florence, for scrutinizing the statistics and natural history of Tuscany. In 1820, he was named an associate of the Academy of Sciences at Palermo; and in July, 1830, chosen one of the Council of the Geographical Society of London, – an institution which he was very instrumental in establishing. He is, moreover, at present one of a Committee for improving and extending the Nautical Almanac.

Besides the work, in quarto, on Sicily and its Islands, already spoken of, Captain Smyth has produced an octavo volume on Sardinia, and another entitled “the life and Services of Captain Philip Beaver, late of H.M.S. Nisus.” We are told, that he has also written several light poems and miscellaneous papers; and we know, that he was an occasional contributor to Baron de Zach’s “Astronomical Correspendence.” He is now arduously employed in investigating the laws of the fixed stars, in an observatory which he has built in his garden, at Bedford, and equipped with very powerful and expensive instruments. During the time these were being constructed, the Council of the Astronomical Society most handsomely voted him the loan of those which had recently belonged to Colonel Beaufoy, of Bushey Heath, whose talents and assiduity are so well known. This measure was thus announced to the general meeting of the Society, on the 8th Feb. 1828:

“Among the great and lamented losses which the Society has sustained in the course of the last year, is that of the late Colonel Mark Beaufoy; the latter days of whose existence we recollect with a melancholy pleasure to have been cheered and gratified by the highest mark of this Society’s approbation, in the award of their medal for his Astronomical Observations. His son. Lieutenant George Beaufoy, R.N., has, with the utmost liberality, placed his deceased father’s astronomical instruments into the possession of this Society. * * * * The surest criterion of the utility of a donation is its immediate and effective practicable application. That of Lieutenant Beaufoy was scarcely announced to the Council, when an application was made to them by one of our members, Captain Smyth, R.N. (justly distinguished for his knowledge of the resources of practical astronomy), for their loan, which was immediately accorded; and the Council have the high satisfaction of being able to announce to you, that the instruments in question are at this moment (with the exception of one of the clocks) mounted in the best manner, in a regular observatory established by Captain Smyth, at his residence at Bedford, for their express reception, and already in actual use hi celestial observation. The Council, though not unaware of the general nature of Captain Smyth’s astronomical views, purposely forbear from publicly stating at present the course of observations in which be purposes to engage; being desirous to leave his meritorious exertions as far unfettered as possible by any public pledge – and trusting rather to his high character and well-known zeal, talent, and activity, than to any express stipulation, that the means thus placed in his hands will be exerted for the advancement of astronomical science.”

Captain Smyth’s services to the profession were not terminated by his retirement to Bedford; a paper on the advantages of a museum, known to have been written by him, appeared in the “United Service Journal” for Sept. 1829, and excited great attention, both in the army and navy. This he afterwards followed up by a letter to the editor of that periodical; which we cannot but copy here:

“Crescent, Bedford, Oct. 12th, 1829.

“Sir,– I am requested by my friend, Commander Henry Downes, whose intrepidity has already introduced him upon your pages, to make an offer if his services towards the founding of a United Service Museum. His words are,–

“‘It is with much pleasure that I have read, since my return from Africa, the spirited leading article of the 8th Number of the new Journal, for I was immediately struck with the manifest advantages likely to result from the proposed establishment. I earnestly hope that the praiseworthy endeavour to form so noble and beneficial an institution, will every where meet with the warm support which it deserves. Nor have I a doubt that many a valuable rarity, now lying idle in the rooms of naval and military officers, will be readily forwarded for so useful a purpose.

“‘Concluding, from your furnishing that journal with a Meteorological Register, that you must he acquainted with the Editor, I will thank you to inform him that, as a proof of my personal estimation of the scheme, I beg to offer a collection which occupied me five or six years in gathering together, – time which might have otherwise been misspent. It is, therefore, at his disposal whensoever a suitable building shall be opened; and it consists of about forty cases of stuffed birds and animals, with a cabinet of insects. Any personal attentions, which a practical knowledge in Natural History may render desirable, are also tendered; and should the undertaking proceed, I can venture to assure you of the contributions of some of my friends, who will rejoice in the prospect of so rational a resource against ennui being provided for the numerous class we now form in society.’

“The being made a medium of so gratifying and liberal a communication, obliges me no longer to defer an offer, on my own part, for the same end. I sec there are difficulties to surmount, but what are difficulties to those who scarcely acknowledge such a word? Forward! It is high time that a rallying point should be established for depositing the models, minerals, weapons, and specimens of Natural History, with other interesting and delightful objects, which we are daily receiving from all quarters of the globe; and also for the dissemination of knowledge, to the advantage of both the individual and the nation. It was chiefly by the princely munificence of Alexander the Great, and his activity in collecting the rarities of earth, air, and water, that Aristotle was enabled to analyse, define, and demonstrate Nature’s mysteries, with such unexampled precision, as to place him at the head of natural philosophers.

“It will not be disputed, that men liable to become the arbiters of their country’s honour, governors of colonies, and members of the highest classes of society, ought to possess a large share of general information; and this, it is easily seen, would be widely engrafted, if your proposal should meet with a full and zealous action. The effects and ultimate influence would be beneficial to all branches; and could not but prove an inexhaustible fund of gratification to the intellectual class, besides improving the understanding, strengthening tUc judgment, and arousing the energies of research, in the many.

“I have, therefore, determined to promote the Imperial Service Museum, to the extent of my ability, by presenting it, under similar stipulations to those mentioned by Downes, with the series of objects in geology, mineralogy, conchology, and antiquities, which a course of years has placed in my possession; and I only hope that the contributions, from other quarters, may be such as to throw ours into insignificance. Believe me to remain, my dear Sir, yours truly,

(Signed)“W. H. Smyth.”

By such means, a proper spirit being aroused, a meeting was at length convened, and the exertions of Captain Smyth were acknowledged by a vote of thanks, an appointment as trustee, and a request to be one of the committee for carrying the resolutions into effect. The following letter from Lieutenant-General Sir Herbert Taylor, must have been extremely flattering by its contents; and is the more valuable as it throws a clear light over the institution which is now forming.

“Horse Guards, December 19th, 1829.

“My dear Sir,– I cannot delay thanking you for your obliging letter of the 17th instant, and assuring yon how much I have been gratified and flattered by its contents. When the establishment of a United Service Museum was first suggested, I concurred heartily in the expediency and utility of the measure; and this view was confirmed by the knowledge of your sentiments, and those of Captains Beaufort and Downes, as my expectation of its success, and of its important results, was also raised by the handsome and liberal manner in which you stepped forward and volunteered, not only your able assistance and co-operation, but also the contribution of the interesting collections you had formed during a professional and scientific career of acknowledged ability and merit. Under these circumstances, I could not hesitate in submitting the project to the King; and I may now repeat what I endeavoured to express to the committee, that I have upon no occasion experienced greater satisfaction in receiving and in conveying the assurance of His Majesty’s approbation, which was signified in terms that shewed how well His Majesty appreciated the advantages of an institution such as that which you, and your brother officers, have so essentially promoted. They appear to me, indeed, incalculable with respect to the improvement of education in our professions, and to the acquirement and diffusion of information in every branch of science and literature, if the real objects of the institution be duly followed up; and such as cannot fail to raise the character of the professions, and to maintain the important advantage of uniting with the duties of the officer the attributes of the gentleman, which ought to be considered inseparable. Much has been done, of late, to promote and encourage the union of sentiment and the harmony of feeling between the officers of the two services, to which you justly attach so much importance. I have ever considered these objects as most desirable – as most essential to the comfort and credit of both, and to the interests of the country; and no person ever felt this more than the late Duke of York, as has been frequently admitted by officers of the navy who experienced H.R.H.’s attention. The same feeling has on every occasion been manifested by our gracious Sovereign, and I am certain that it materially influenced his approbation of our joint undertaking, which must therefore be zealously persisted in. I remain, ever with sincere regard, my dear Sir, your very obedient and faithful servant,

(Signed)“H. Taylor.”

“To Captain Smyth, R.N.
&c. &c. &c.”

The subject of this memoir married, at Messina, Oct. 7th, 1815, Annarella, only daughter of T. Warington, of Naples, Esq. and by that lady has had nine children, seven of whom are living. Mrs. Smyth’s half-brother was Captain Charles Peirson, who, when a lieutenant of the 69th regiment, so gallantly seconded the immortal Nelson, in boarding a Spanish first-rate, off Cape St. Vincent, Feb. 14th, 1797. He married the sister of his friend, the late Captain Sir William Bolton, R.N., a connection of the great hero; but shortly afterwards fell a victim to the climate of Honduras, whither he had been ordered on promotion.

Agent.– J. Dufaur, Esq.

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1. Published by Cadell and Davies, London, 1818.
2. Son of Sir John Wrottesley, Bart. He obtained the rank of Commander, Jan. 7th, 1812; and died at Newfoundland, in command of the Sabine sloop, July 28th, 1814.
3. Captain Sir Robert Hall, Knt. and C.B. died acting Commissioner at Quebec, in 1918.
4. Published by Murray, London, 1824.
5. The proceedings of the land branch of this expedition, were published by Murray, London, in the year 1828.

---

1. Original: Puente-de-Suazos was amended to Puente-de-Suazo
2. Original: Lacey was amended to Lyon
3. Original: Khahan was amended to Kháhan
4. Original: a plain was amended to a small plain
5. Original: fiumaras was amended to fiumare
6. Original: Genna was amended to Grenna