Sikhim and Bhutan

by John Claude White

 London, Edward Arnold.

SIKHIM & BHUTAN

TWENTY-ONE YEARS ON THE
NORTH-EAST FRONTIER
1887–1908

BY
J. CLAUDE WHITE, C.I.E.

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP

LONDON
EDWARD ARNOLD
Publisher to the India Office
1909
[All Rights Reserved]

TO

A. W. PAUL, Esq., C.I.E.

TO WHOM I OWE MUCH FOR THE
ASSISTANCE HE HAS ALWAYS
GIVEN ME IN MY WORK

CONTENTS

CHAP.		PAGE.
I.	THE GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION AND GENERAL FEATURES OF THE STATES OF SIKHIM AND BHUTAN	1
II.	THE PEOPLE: THEIR MORALS, RELIGION, AND LANGUAGE	7
III.	A SHORT HISTORY OF SIKHIM	16
IV.	EARLY REMINISCENCES
	First visit to Sikhim, 1887. The brothers Khangsa Dewan and Phodong Lama, the Shoe Dewan and Kazis. Return to Gangtak with the Entchi Column, 1888. First meeting with Their Highnesses the Maharaja and Maharani of Sikhim	19
V.	MORE EARLY REMINISCENCES
	My appointment to Sikhim. Departure of the Maharaja to Kurseong. Inspection of the country with Phodong Lama and Shoe Dewan. Opening up by means of roads and bridges. Sources of revenue. Mineral wealth. Visit to Yatung, so-called Trade Mart	25
VI.	MORE EARLY REMINISCENCES
	Building a house. Lepcha servants. Supplies. A garden party. The Residency garden. Roses and lilies. A wave of colour. Orchids. Visit to Tumlong. Worship of Kangchenjunga. Lama dance. Missionaries. Difficulties of travelling. Crossing the Teesta in flood. Landslips. Leeches	33
VII.	THE DELHI DURBAR AND VISIT OF THE CHIEFS TO CALCUTTA TO MEET THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS OF WALES	45
VIII.	EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM
	From Gangtak over the Giucha-la to Ringen. Loss of a coolie. Camp amongst glaciers and moraines. A snow leopard. Alpine flowers. Avalanches and ice caves. Crossing a difficult gorge. Lepchas and wild bees. The Rungnu. Sakhyong	53
IX.	EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM—continued
	From Gangtak to the Zemu glacier, Lonak Valley, Lachen and Lachung. Mr. Hoffmann. Cloud effects. Cane bridges. Hot springs. Talung Monastery and its treasures. Grazing land and Tibetan herdsmen. Yak transport. Locusts. The Sebu Pass. Snow-blindness. Lachung. Goral-shooting	63
X.	EXPEDITIONS AND EXPLORATIONS IN SIKHIM—continued
	Demarcation of the northern boundary between Sikhim and Tibet. Difficulties of transport. Mountain sickness. Survey work. Caught in a storm. Durkey Sirdar. Ovis ammon. Photographing the glaciers. A ride at 21,600 feet. Evidence of former size of the glaciers	82
XI.	DEPARTURE FROM SIKHIM	94
XII.	HISTORY OF THE FOUNDING OF BHUTAN	99
XIII.	MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN
	From Gangtak to Tashi-cho-jong. Choice of routes. The Natu-la in bad weather. Deputation in the Chumbi Valley. Entering Bhutan. The Hah-la and Meru-la. Punishment for murder. Leather cannon. Paro. The Penlop’s wives. Paro-jong. Turner’s description. Eden’s description. Dug-gye. Weeping cypress at Chalimaphe. The quarrel between Ugyen Wang-chuk and Aloo Dorji. Murder of Poonakha Jongpen. Tashi-cho-jong	105
XIV.	MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN—continued
	From Tashi-cho-jong to Tongsa-jong. Simtoka-jong. Entry into Poonakha. The Deb Raja. Presentation of K.C.I.E. Description of Poonakha Fort. Expedition to Norbugang and Talo Monasteries. Visit of the Tango Lama. So-na-ga-sa the Zemri-gatchie of Turner. Farewell visit to the Deb. Angdu-phodang. Death of my dog Nari. The Pele-la. Tongsa-jong. Bad roads. Water-power prayer-wheels. The ceremony of blessing the rice-fields	137
XV.	MY FIRST MISSION TO BHUTAN—continued
	From Tongsa-jong to Bya-gha, Lingzi, and Phari. Hospitality of the Tongsa and Tongsa’s sister at Bya-gha. Old monasteries near Bya-gha. Ancient traditions. Carvers and carpenters at the Champa Lhakhang Monastery. Regret at leaving Bya-gha. Lama dances. Farewell to Sir Ugyen. Reception at Tashi-cho-jong. Last interview with the Deb Raja. Ta-tshang lamas. Cheri Monastery. Magnificent scenery. Incorrect maps. Exposure of the dead to lammergeiers. View of Tibet from the Ling-shi Pass. Break-up of the Mission	161
XVI.	AN EXPLORATION OF EASTERN BHUTAN AND A PORTION OF TIBET IN 1906
	From Gangtak viâ Dewangiri to Tashigong and Tashi-yangtsi, and on to Tsekang. Horse-flies. Dorunga. Cypripedium Fairianum. Sudden rise of the river. Tigers near the camp. Chungkhar. Borshang iron-mines. Tashigong. Stick lac cultivation. Suspension bridges. Source of the Dongma-chhu. Tashi-yangtsi. Prayer-wheels. Old roads. Chorten Kara. New flowering trees	184
XVII.	AN EXPLORATION OF EASTERN BHUTAN AND A PORTION OF TIBET IN 1906—continued
	From Tsekang to Lhakhang-jong. Lhalung Monastery and Pho-mo-chang-thang Lake to Gyantse. Crossing the Bod-la between Bhutan and Tibet. Riding yaks. Welcome in Tibet. Meeting with Sir Ugyen. Wild gooseberries. Old gold-workings. Friendliness of Tibetans. Lhakhang-jong. Tuwa-jong. Dekila, widow of Norbu Sring. Lhalung Monastery. Ovis ammon. Source of the Nyeru-chhu	197
XVIII.	MY SECOND MISSION TO BHUTAN
	Severe weather. Shau. A frozen torrent. Dug-gye-jong. A visit to Paro Ta-tshang Monastery. Sang-tog-peri. Paro-jong burnt down. Arrival at Poonakha. The Tongsa’s band	211
XIX.	MY SECOND MISSION TO BHUTAN—continued
	Installation of Sir Ugyen as Maharaja of Bhutan. Presentation of gifts. Tea ceremony. Oath of allegiance. Seal of the Dharma Raja. Chinese influence on the frontier. Christmas Day. Feeding the poor. Return of escort. Discussion of State affairs with Maharaja and council. I leave for Jaigaon. A Takin. Inspection of frontier. Wild animals	224
XX.	BRITISH MISSIONS TO BHUTAN
	Bogle, 1774. Hamilton, 1775 and 1777. Turner, 1783. Pemberton, 1838. Eden, 1864. White, 1905. White, 1907	237
XXI.	BRITISH RELATIONS WITH BHUTAN FROM 1772
	Nepalese invasion of Tibet, 1792. The Athara Duars. Friction with Bhutan. Our occupation of the Bengal Duars. Expedition against Bhutan. Loss of guns. Treaty of Rawa Pani. Whole of Duars taken by us. Tongsa Penlop accompanies expedition to Lhasa. Sir Ugyen’s visit to Calcutta. Sir Ugyen elected Maharaja	264
XXII.	FOREIGN RELATIONS WITH BHUTAN
	China. Tibet. Nepal. Sikhim. Cooch Behar	285
XXIII.	ARTS AND INDUSTRIES OF SIKHIM AND BHUTAN
	Chinese and Indian influence. Metal-work in Sikhim. Method of casting. Sikhim knives. Aniline dyes. Weaving school in Lachung. Carpet factory in Gangtak. Apple orchards in Lachung and Chumbi. Cheese and butter making. Bhutan metal-work. A wonderful pan-box. Beaten copper and silver work. Bells. Swords and daggers. Weaving. Needlework pictures. Basket-work. Influence of the feudal system. Inferiority of Tibetan work. Wood-carving in Sikhim, Bhutan, and Nepal	294
APPENDICES
I.	THE LAWS OF BHUTAN	301
II.	THE LAWS OF SIKHIM AND MARRIAGE CUSTOMS	311
III.	A LIST OF SOME OF THE PRINCIPAL ANIMALS AND BIRDS TO BE FOUND IN THESE COUNTRIES, AND THEIR HABITAT	322
IV.	DESCRIPTIONS OF THE ART SPECIMENS ILLUSTRATED IN CHAPTER XXIII.	325
INDEX		327

ILLUSTRATIONS

		FACING PAGE
J. Claude White, C.I.E. (photogravure)	Frontispiece
The Source of the Teesta River (photogravure)		4
H.H. The Maharani of Sikhim		22
The Residency, Gangtak		28
Residency Garden, Gangtak		34
Wallichianum Lilies in the Residency Garden		38
Lower Teesta Valley		42
Group at Hastings House, Calcutta, 1906		48
Kangchenjunga		58
Bamboo Roadway		60
Sanklan Sampo		64
Old Vestments, Talung Monastery		66
Siniolchu (photogravure)		68
Yaks		70
Upper Lonak Valley (photogravure)		72
Typical Sikhim Scenery		80
Nuns from the Ta-tshang Nunnery		86
Lonak Valley		90
Glacial Lake, Lonak Valley (photogravure)		92
Bridge over the Am-mo-chhu at Pema, in the Chumbi Valley (photogravure)		108
Chorten at Gorina Monastery		122
Paro-jong		126
Paro Ta-tshang Monastery		128
Dug-gye-jong		130
Poonakha-jong		138
Tongsa-jong		158
Bhutanese Houses		186
Lhalung Monastery		198
Tuwa-jong		202
Interior of Lhalung Monastery		206
Interior of Dug-gye-jong		212
Bridge at Shana		214
Paro Ta-tshang Monastery (photogravure)		218
Group at Poonakha, 1908		222
Oath of Allegiance signed at Poonakha at the Installation of Sir
Ugyen Wang-chuk as Maharaja of Bhutan, 1907		226
H.H. Sir Ugyen Wang-chuk, K.C.I.E., Maharaja of Bhutan		234
Impressions of Seals given to Bhutan by China, Nepal, and Tibet		286
Art Specimens—I		294
Art Specimens—II		296
Art Specimens—III		298
Art Specimens—IV		300
The illustrations facing pages 60, 64, 66, and 68 by the kind permission of Mr. Hoffmann.
Map of Sikhim and Bhutan	At end

AUTHORITIES CONSULTED

Tibetan Manuscript

The Lho-cho-jung

History of the Sindhu Raja

Bogle’s Mission, 1774

Turner’s Mission, 1783

Reports of Kishen Kant, 1815

Pemberton’s Mission, 1837

Griffiths’ Journal, 1837

Eden’s Mission, 1864

Rennie’s History of the Bhutan War

Macgregor’s Military Report on Bhutan, 1866

Aitcheson’s Treaties

Government Records

Sikhim Gazetteer

 I. B. December 1889.
  Exd. J. A. A.