The "Ulithi" Encyclopedia/Chapter 3
Chapter Three: The Nature
A weed has often been defined as an undesirable plant. Most herbs or forbs are welcome relief from the ever present coral rock and sand. Consequently, few weeds grow or Ulithi.
The following well known "weeds" are found on all the larger islands: crab grass (or finger grass), goose grass, love grass, panic grass, foxtail grass, wild millet, sedges, Rushes (Juncus), chickweed, morning glory or bindweeds, creeping spurge, black nightshade, ground cherry, mint, purslane, several vine species of the bean family, and a few members of the sunflower family.
In fresh or slightly brackish rainwater pools may be found green algae, while brown algae is often seen by shell gatherers just inside the surf line on the seaward side of the islands. Fungi seen frequently are of two kinds: the toadstool types, which grow on the ground or on decaying logs, and bracket types, which are of a yellowish-brown color, often seen on tree trunks in shaded areas. Lichens also thrive on the trunks of trees here.
Ferns abound on Mogmog and Fassarai. Especially attractive are the epiphytic ferns seen on large breadfruit, wild fig, and banyan trees. Decayed logs and stumps contain other varieties of terrestial ferns and mosses, while a deeply lobed fern commonly adorns the palm trees, with rhizomes or rootlike stems deeply imbedded in the bark crevices of the expanded trunk bases.
Of the seed bearers, the coconut palm is by far the most abundant tree on all the larger islands. It contains the largest plant seed imbedded in a substantial husk. These palms ascend to heights of more than 75 feet, and support a spreading crown on a flexible culm. The bark of the trunk encloses a coarsely fibrous bundle imbedded in a firm starchy mass, similiar to the structure of a corn stalk. Since palm logs are subject to swift decomposition under damp situations and the ravages of ants, they are used only as temporary building materials. Other uses of the coconut palm products are mentioned in previous discussions.
Another common tree is the pandanus, or screwpine. It has a pithy branched stalk, or trunk, equipped with numerous woody processes extending outward and downward which appear as braces. The linear leaves have a rich, green color, posessing spiny saw-like margins, and form a dense crown which rises spirally from the trunk. It grows on sandy plots, usually not far from the beach. This small tree bears large pineapple-shaped to spherical fruits, orange in color when ripe, rich in sugar, oils, and starches. The drupes which fall from the ripe fruit are very fragrant and edible, and also are used in making fermented drinks. This tree is heavily utilized by the natives throughout the Pacific.
Other trees found on the heavily vegetated islands of Fassarai, Mogmog, and Potangeras are the banana, breadfruit, papaya, and hau. Some other large unidentified trees are used by the natives in constructing boats and furniture.
The lily family is represented by cardinal-flowered cannas, with reddish-hued leaves, a spider lily, and another low growing lily―having leaves grey-green in color above and purple-red below. All three species grow on Mogmog island.
The large-leaved taro plant, from which Hawaiian poi is made, is cultivated by the natives, and also grows on almost every island of the atoll, Leaves, stems, and rootstock contain tiny, sharp acid crystals, which can be extremely painful to the tongue if eaten raw. For this reason, the crystals are always dissolved by boiling the tuber for several minutes before it is eaten.
Cultivated plants of known recent introduction are sugarcane, sweet corn, popcorn, radishes, turnips, beans, squash, muskmelon, watermelon, potatoes, tomatoes, nasturtiums, marigolds, and zinnias.
Like the plant life at Ulithi, the fauna is also "second hand," various species arriving here by migration―as in the case of birds―or by accidental or intentional introduction by man—as in the case of the large brown rats, lizards, and dogs.
The waters around the atoll abound with marine animals, and the reefs are alive with interesting and beautiful creatures.
Perhaps the most colorful group are the many species of coral whose skeletons form extensive reefs inside and outside the atoll. They have practically all the colors of the rainbow plus many darker shades. Living in clear waters of warm temperatures, they reproduce rapidly, assuming a wide variety of shapes, ranging from the red pipe-organ type to the antler-like forms. The many small tentacles which extend from the coral colonies are constantly in motion, resembling wind-rippled grain fields, as they sweep the water for tiny food organisms. Portuguese men-o-war and jellyfish, commonly called sea nettles by ocean bathers, are not abundant enough to become a nuisance, but they are seen occasionally.
The next animal group well represented on the reef is the "echinoderms" or spiny-skinned animals, The following are most commonly seen at Ulithi: sea stars, brittlestars, sea urchins, heart urchins, and sea cucumbers. These animals are armored with tough, spine-covered external skeletons and usually are found under rocks and boulders or in crevices where they lodge themselves securely. They feed on crustaceans, molluscs, and other small animal life which they are able to capture. Their stomachs can be everted to envelop the prey, and the strong digestive juices quickly break down the soft flesh and organs of the captive. The shells and skeletons are then ejected from the stomach. The power of regeneration or regrowth of body parts is a well-known habit in this group. The newly-formed member is usually somewhat smaller than the original organ.
Crustaceans are common in water and on land. Hermit crabs may be seen almost anywhere on the reef in shallow water, but they appear to prefer areas of loose rock which affords them protection, There they select vacant shells of molluscs into which they retreat, the shell shielding their soft abdomens. As they grow, they change accordingly to larger shells. Often the shell is so heavy it can be moved with nothing less than great strain.
Other crustaceans seen are swimming crabs, rock crabs, and a huge spiny lobster-like animal which inhabits the coral reef at the surf line. This animal is magnificently colored with green and buffy yellow, and posesses antennae thirty inches or more in length―the entire animal exceeding three feet in total length. Coconut crabs were found on Sorlen island during the early weeks of occupation.
Molluscs are abundant at Ulithi and form a sizeable part of the food of many coral reef inhabitants. This group includes such interesting animals as the giant clam, the spider clam, various sea snails including the well known cateye, cowrie, conch, octopus, and clamworm.
The giant clam is the largest known bivalve, sometimes weighing 400 pounds. This species was reportedly responsible for severing an underwater telephone cable between Asor and Sorlen, Early in their development, they are free swimming, but later they attach themselves to a rock and soon become imbedded in the growing coral and moss, retaining only enough space. to permit opening of valves and the exposure of their attractively mantled interior.
The spider clam is interesting mainly because of its strange shape and the color of the shell's interior. It has a single valve or shell member which may be six inches in length, posessing six curved shell processes extending laterally, three on each side. The interior and the lips of the shell are a striking orange and bright red.
The cat-eye is a most interesting and much sought after snail. Especially well known on the southwest and western Pacific islands, it is sought by the natives and servicemen to be used in the making of trinkets. The "cat eye" itself is an operculum or trap door which is snapped shut when the body retracts into the shell. It usually has a convex greenish central portion surrounded by orange or brown stripes. When small, it is covered with small tubercles, but becomes smoother as it increases in size. When polished, good cat-eyes will take on a very high luster.
The cowrie is another univalve, and is widely used in making bracelets, necklaces, and headbands. Alive, the animal may be found exposed or under rocks in the tidal areas, its membranous mantle drawn over the attractive tiny shell. They vary in color: one has a creamy yellowish or greenish color; another is dark olive with a burnt-orange golden ring; and some larger ones, up to four inches in length, are dark brown or black with lighter spots. The lower side of the shell has a lengthwise slot through which the body extends while feeding.
Conches are usually found in sandy=bottomed passages between the islands, in three to six feet of water where there is a strong current. They lie buried in the sand with less than half of the large shell exposed. The lip and interior of the shell is buffy colored with darker markings forming an attractive design. Conches found were from three inches to nine inches in length. Small octopi are seen frequently on the reef at low tide; partly withdrawn into cavaties or crevices in the coral. They are pale grey and appear jelly-like in texture. They probably live on molluscs and crustaceans and other small animals which they can capture.
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Fish are abundant both inside and outside the lagoon. Many types of moray eels lurk among coral formations and piles of loose rock, the posterior part of the body concealed in their lair. The head and a fourth of the body may lie poised outside, ready to seize in sharp teeth any acceptable morsel that swims or drifts by. Just behind the head on each side is a small opening through which the water passes during breathing.
Morays are rather "snakily-repulsive" in appearence and give rise to many accounts of encounters with "coral snakes." They can be distinguished readily from reptiles by their extremely slippery and scaleless skins, and the fleshy fins running along most of the back and tail.
Sharks are occasionally seen offshore, and swimmers have found several sting rays. One large creature reportedly at least five feet wide and considerably greater in its length was seen near the pier at Sorlen island during the spring of 1945. A few flounders have been found.
Our reefs contain many highly colored fishes with a wide variety of shapes and sizes. The trigger fish family, which contains some poisonous species, is to be found in this category. They are short, laterally depressed fishes appearing to have large heads and a single sharp spine arising where the dorsel fin normally is found. This spine may contain a highly toxic poison, so these fishes should be avoided. Another fish often appearing in shallow water is the puffer. It is a very sluggish fish, and has the ability to inflate itself and float belly-upward when disturbed. This habit may save it from being swallowed by other fish, Puffers have a parrot-like mouth surrounded by fleshy lips, and large eyes which bulge from their sockets.
Fishing parties have caught a variety of good food fishes. Mackeral, tuna, several members of the pompano family, and red bass were found. Flying fish also abound near Ulithi. In connection with food fish, it might be mentioned that great sea turtles occasionally visit the Ulithi sandpits to lay their eggs. They may be four feet long and weigh 300 to 400 pounds.
On the islands, most of the animals live on or near ground, some live in the trees, and a very few live in fresh water pools or underground. Earthworms are encountered occasionally in damp areas—a swamp at Mogmog contains quite a few.
Arthopods or jointed-legged animals are fairly well represented throughout the atoll. The following insects have been observed: earwigs, two types of cockroaches, field crickets, grasshoppers (including a small red-legged and a large—2½ inches—black and yellow locust and a small coneheaded species), aphids or plant lice, small leaf hoppers, several types of medium-sized butterflies (including a swallowtail), a few moths, dragonflies, numerous species of beetles, house flies, blowflies, and small black flies, mosquitoes (both Culex and Aedes), and several species of ants.
Scorpions have been found, a few centipedes, and numerous millipeds or "thousand leggers." Terrestial hermit crabs may be seen almost anywhere on the ground on any of the islands. Spiders are not abundant and are generally small in size, with the exception of a few wolf spiders.
Reptiles are common on most of Ulithi's islands. Species found include a large monitor lizard, several types of skinks or smooth-scaled lizards, and a small burrowing snake, Monitor lizards were seen which were over five feet in length, grey and green in color, a beaded scale appearence, and a very long, forked tongue. They probably live on insects, rodents, and other smaller lizards. Skinks here are of several kinds. A small, azure-tailed species is often seen at the base of palm trees or in brush piles. A larger (8 to 14 inches) lizard, green-to-brown in color, prefers to live in or around palm trees, and black lizards of a similiar size inhabit the heavily shaded, brushy areas. Primarily, they all live on flies and other insects.
Geckos range in size from two to eight inches. They feed almost exclusively on flies and often stalk them on vertical walls or ceilings, especially in illuminated areas to which insects are attracted at night. A short sticky tongue enables geckos to catch their fly-food, and so zealous are they in this pursuit that they frequently jump at passing flies and fall to a crash landing.
The only true snake found on the atoll to date is the small, inoffensive burrowing snake. As the name would imply, it spends most of its life underground thriving on a diet of small insects, grubs, and worms. One specimen, contributed by Falalop, was three-and-a-half inches long with a diameter slightly exceeding an eighth of an inch. It was dark brown in color, and had a rounded tail armed with a fine horny point. The scales were smooth and glossy. The head was blunt.
The majority of birds seen on the islands are not permanant residents. Some of them spend only the mating season; others winter here, and still others merely pass through during migration. A few live at Ulithi throughout the year.
Permanant residents are the reef heron, night heron, and the Micronesian starling, our most common and vociferous black bird. The reef heron may often be seen hunting for crustaceans, small fish, and molluscs during low tide on the seaward side of the islands. The species has both a white and a blue gray color phase. The night heron is dark above and light below, is smaller than the reef heron, and perches in a head-in, hump-backed manner. Both herons frequently fly from one island to the next in search of food, usually at sunrise and sunset.
Birds which migrate through Ulithi, nest, stay only during the winter, or are merely casual visitors, are shear-waters, tropic birds, man-o-war birds, various terns (including the dainty white fairy terns and gray-colored noddies), plovers, curlews, sandpipers, wandering tattlers, and turnstones.
In addition to the non-residential birds we might add chickens found on several islands (which have proved none too productive—their fertility is erratic and their products look more like ping-pong balls than hen eggs), and "Henry of Asor," of the Muscovy duck breed. There is also a captive green parakeet from the Phillippines residing near the Asor island navy dispensary.
Mammels on Ulithi include the Ulithi fruit bat, the Polynesian or small gray rat, and a large brown rat, house mouse, cat, dog, pig, as well as several monkeys introduced from the Philippines.
The End