The Complete Confectioner (1800)/Distillation
The mystery which the generality of distillers have affected to throw over their art, in order to keep it from the public, has not a little contributed to induce many pretenders to attempt an explanation of its excellent qualities; which, like quackery in physic, not only defrauds us of our money, but what is more valuable, injures our health likewise. With a view of detecting such impositions, we give the following small treatise; in which we shall endeavour to be as clear and concise as possible.
We shall begin first by explaining what is meant by distilling; how many sorts of distillings there are; what are the instruments fit for that business; what accidents it is liable to; and what must be done to prevent them; then point out the remedies which may be applied to those accidents when they do happen; and at last enter into the detail of the different sorts of liquors, that of their composition and the various ways of preparing them, by a plain and methodical account of the principle of the art; in which we shall endeavour to omit nothing of what may serve to instruct completely either the lovers of distilling, or the artists who profess it, and make it their particular business.
To extract spirits, is to produce, by means of heat, such an action as will secrete them from the bodies in which they are detained.
If that heat is the proper and natural affection of the bodies, and produces the secretion of spirits, without any foreign help, it is called fermentation.
If it is produced exteriorly by means of the fire or other hot matters in which the still is placed, then it is called either digestion of distillation: digestion, when the receipts are only prepared to the secretion of their spirits: distillation, when the action of heat has such a power as really to secrete those spirits, and make them to distil.
It is that heat which provoking a commotion and agitation among the insensible parts of any body whatsoever, detaches them, divides them, and procures a passage to the spirits which are concealed in it, by freeing them from the faint or terraqueous qualities with which they are employed.
Considered in that point of view, distilling may become worthy of engaging the attention of the learned, and be the object of their studies.
Infinite are the parts which this art embraces; every thing which the earth produces, whether flowers, fruits, grains, spices, aromatical or vulnerary plants, and perfumed oils or essences. We shall not undertake to defend its utility nor its charm; it is from the course of this work we hope it may and will be deduced wherewith to make and justify its encomium.
After having defined distilling in general, we must say something more particular on that article.
They reckon generally three different species of distilling. The first, called distilling per ascensum, that is to say, by raising, is made by placing the still on the fire or other hot matters, such as gravel, horse dung, boiling water, &c. which promotes a rising of the spirits. This method is the most common and almost the only one distillers put in practice.
The second called per descensum, that is to say, by depressing or defrauding, is procured by placing the fire on the top of the vessel employed in distilling which precipitates the spirits. This method is used by the liquorist distillers but for the oils of cloves, nutmegs, and mace.
Some assert that the oil of jumper berries is very good drawn per ascensum.
The third and last called per latus, that is to say, sidely or by the side, is never practised but by chymists; therefore we shall pass it over in silence.
By spirits is meant the most subtile particles of any bodies whatsoever.
All bodies, without any exception are impregnated with spirits in more or less quantities.
These particles are an igneous substance, which by its very nature is susceptible of and disposed to a great commotion.
That subtile portion of bodies is more or less, disposed to secretion according as the bodies in which it is contained are more or less persons or more or less oily.
By essences are meant in distillery, as well as chymistry, the oily parts of a body; that sort of oil called essence may be extracted from all sorts of bodies, and constitutes one of the principles with which they are composed. At least it has been ascertained by those who have been particular in their observations, that nothing had been distilled from which oil or essence could not be extracted. In every sort of distillation made from fruits, flowers, sweet smelling spices principally, and all other sorts of spices put in digestion, there has always been seen swimming over the phlegms or faints, a soft and unctuous substance; and that substance is an oil. Now that oil is what is called essence when it is the object of our distillation.
By simple waters is meant what is distilled from flowers and other things without water, brandy, or spirit of wine. Such distillations are generally of a phlegmatic quality, though fragrant, always charged with the odour of the body from which it is extracted, and even of a more perfect fragrancy than the body itself.
Phlegms, which some call faints, are the terraqueous particles which make part of the composition of bodies; whether this principle be active or passive, we leave to the chymists to discuss. However it may be, it is nevertheless very essential for all artists of that profession to be well acquainted with its nature, for many are mistaken in it. Some take as phlegm certain white and cloudy drops which come first when the receipts contained in the still begin to run. Notwithstanding it is certain that these drops are often the most spirituous particles of the matters which distil, which they deprive themselves of very gradually. The whiteness of those cloudy drops is owing only to some moistness which remained in the top of the still; when if they had observed to wipe it off well, they should have seen that the first drip which runs would have been as transparent and brilliant as the last, and it is to their detriment that they throw off those first drops which are the most volatile, and spirituous of their receipts.
Here is an observation which deserves all their attention, and which we recommend earnestly to every distiller. In all the matters which have first been put in digestion or what is the same meaning, set to infuse the day before, the spirits are the first which fly to the top of the still; when on the contrary in those receipts which have not been set to infuse, the phlegm raise first, and the spirits afterwards, the reason is quite physical, and so plain that it requires no farther elucidation to conceive it.
We shall add another observation, which no doubt will please the curious, and even all those who have some notion of distillation. In all the mixed receipts, such as those in which you would put to distil flowers, fruits, and spices together, without being previously prepared by means of the digestion; the action of the fire raises first the spirits of the flowers; in such a manner that, in spite of the mixture, these spirits have contracted nothing from the smell of the fruits nor of the spices. That secretion made, the spirits of the fruits rise next, without any mixture of the spices or of the flower. In fine, the spirits of the spices come last, without the least impregnation of the odour of the flowers, or the taste of the fruits; every article keeps distinct by itself in that distillation; and those who doubt the veracity of this assertion are desired to try the experiment.
Another interesting observation that has been made on spices, is, that whether they have been put in digestion or not; whether the phlegms or faints have rose before the spirits, or the spirits before the phlegms; the spirits you have draw from those sorts of ingredients are hardly impregnated with the smell and taste of them, and it has always been found necessary to mix along with those spirits a certain portion of the phlegms, in more or less quantities, to give them the taste and perfume of the spices, because it is the phlegms, not the spirits, which contain more of that taste and flagrancy, This observation is absolute necessary, and may perhaps prove satisfactory to a curious reader.
As the word digestion has often been made use of in this essay, we shall explain what is meant by it, its utility, and even the necessity it is of in many circumstances.
Matters are said to be in digestion when you have them to soak in a proper dissolvent over a very mild heat to soften them. This preparation is necessary for many sorts of ingredients in distillery. It procures the spirits a more facile issue from the matters where they are contained.
The digestions which are made without any heat at all, are those which are more generally used, and the least; because those which are made over the fire, or by means of hot matters, such as dung, &c. in which the vessel is placed, always take away some of the goodness, quality, and merit of the goods, as they cannot but promote some of the spirits, and it is very easy to conceive that this must be so much of the quality.
When you intend to draw essences, the ingredients must unavoidably be prepared by means of the digestion. In order to draw well the spirits and essences from spices digestion in again there of an absolute necessity. In short, digestion enters necessarily in our principles, and is an indispensable one itself.
Various are the fruits made use of in distilling, some with rinds, some with skins, some with kernels, some with stones, and others covered over with a shell.
The fruits with rinds, such as the Portugal orange, as the French call it, or China, as we call it in England; the cedra, the citron, the Bigarade or Sevelle orange, the lemon, and the Bergamot, are excellent for the liquors of taste, when you make use of the zests of those different with the oil of essence. The quintessence of those sorts of fruit cannot be drawn here as in the countries that produce them; because, besides that they lose so much of their primitive flavour by importation, the price they fetch in this country renders it an impossible thing for the distiller to think of drawing that quintessence from them with any profit or advantage to himself. We shall speak of the manner of chusing those fruits when we come to speak of them singly. The bergamot(a kind of citron) is more commonly made use of for odoriferous waters than for palatable liquors
Among the fruits with kernels there are few which the distillers make use of except the reinette apple, the rouselet pear, and the quince. We make what is called ratafia or cordial water, with those three sorts of fruits. But the rouselet pear is more ordinarily preserved in brandy. As quince is fit for a spirituous fermentation, you may distil the spirits on liquor, which, by so fermenting, comes from it. And the spirit of that water or rather vinous liquor is successfully employed in a liquor when in preserving all the delicacy of taste of that fruit acquires its well known beneficient qualities for the stomach.
Cordials are made also with stone fruits, such as cherries, plumbs, apricots, and peaches; these four species of fruits made be preserved in brandy. There are again other sorts of fruits which distillers employ for ratafia and syrups. Such are raspberries and strawberries, which enter in the composition of several sorts of cordials in order to give them a nicer and more exquisite taste. Mulberries and raspberries, as well as morello cherries are again often made use of to give a colour to certain cordials. There is a syrup made with mulberries and currants which is very agreeable to the taste, and which is very much in use for sick people.
Shell fruits are likewise of great use in distillation. Ratafia may be made with walnuts; and that fruit may also be preserved in brandy when young and tender.
Almonds are made use of for the Eau de Noyau. And from that fruit we draw, as well as from nuts, oils for perfumed essences.
We have spoken here but of those fruit which are generally made use of by distillers, there are many others which might be employed with as much success. It is enough to have pointed here the use which is made of them: it behoves the lovers of the art to improve the ancient discoveries. The receipts change as the taste changes: but the method and proceedings we recommend here will always serve and be useful to direct the operations.
Those plants are called aromatical whose stalks and flowers have a strong and penetrating odour, though altogether agreeable; such plants preserve that odour a long while after they are gathered even after they are dried up.
Those are called vulnerary, which have an aromatical taste, and which are unctuous and balsamic. The aromatical and vulnerary plants are in great numbers; but we shall not enter into their detail; we shall content ourselves with only pointing out those which the distillers made the greatest consumption of, such as melissa, rosemary lavender aspic, marjorum, sage, &c.
From the aromatical plants we draw odoriferous waters, which are exquisite to strengthen the heart and the brain; and which are constantly used in swoons. We may likewise draw quintessences from them which stand in the stead of the plants themselves, in the seasons in which the plants exist no more.
Aromatical plants are distilled in two different manners; either with water to make simple waters; or with spirit of wine to make odoriferous waters. Both of them contribute to health, in contributing to the cleanness of the body.
The best vulnerary plants are those with come from Switzerland. They generally send in those sorts of plants dry leaves and flowers all together; they preserve enough of their good quality to be employed here.
The vulnerary plants which are used in the composition of the arquebusade water, all grow in France. They are employed in their strength, when they are quite green. It is principally in the time they are in blossom they are to be employed. They may be distilled with plain water; but those distilled with spirit of wine have a great deal more virtue.
Both the leaves and flowers of aromatical plants used in the composition of the pot-poury. They are likewise employed in the making of sweet swelling satchels, or bags. The general rule is to employ them in their full vigour, and to gather them before the too great heat of the day has deprived them of their fragrancy.
The spices mostly made use of in distillation, are cloves, cinnamon, nutmegs, and mace.
From these spices you may draw, by means of distillation, what is called spirits; and by infusion you may make tinctures and oils of essence. These spices are also used in the composition of several odoriferous water, but especially in most of the cordials of which they are material ingredients.
The seeds most known in distillation are, fennel, angelica, aniseed, coriander, juniper, parsley, caraway, carrot, and many others. From these various sorts of seeds you draw spirits with brandy for palatable liquors. You may likewise draw oils of essence, or make infusions for ratafias.
Choose fine lilies, thick and well blown, not all faded, nor begun to decay, and gather them immediately after the rising of the sun; cut nothing but the stalk of the flower, because it would give to the distillation a taste of green; leave the flower whole, and put it in the cucurbite with common water and brandy,, in the proportion hereafter mentioned; and distil it upon a naked fire a little quick; when your spirits are drawn, melt some sugar in water, and then mix your spirits with it; pass the whole through a bag, and when fined down, your liquor will be fit for use.
Take three quarts of brandy, half a pound of lily flowers, three quarts of water, and a pound of sugar for the syrup; the whole must make up five quarts of liquor in all when finished.
Take half a pound of flowers, three quarts of brandy, three pounds of sugar, and two quarts of common water; which will produce four quarts of liquor when done.
Take of the leaves of dried spearmint one pound and an half, and two gallons and an half of water, and draw off by a gentle fire one gallon. This water will be more fragrant if distilled in Balneum Mariæ, or the cold still; but if the latter be used, the same caution must be observed of distilling the plant green.
Take half a pound of Jamaica pepper, and two gallons and an half of water, and draw off one gallon with a pretty brisk fire. The oil of this fruit is very ponderous, and therefore this water is best made in an alembic.
Take one pound of dill seed, and three gallons of water; distil off by the alembic one gallon, with a pretty brisk fire.
Take of the roots and seeds of angelica, cut and bruised, of each one pound and an half, eleven gallons of proof spirit, and two gallons of water; draw off ten gallons, or till the faints begin to rise, with a gentle fire; and sweeten it, if required, with lump sugar. It is a good carminative, and therefore good against all kinds of flatulent cholics, and gripings of the bowels.
Take of the roots and seeds of angelica, and sweet fennel seeds, of each one pound and an half, the dried leaves of balm and sage, of each one pound; slice the roots and bruise the seeds and herbs, and add to them of cinnamon one ounce, of cloves, cubebs, galangals, and mace of each three quarters of an ounce; of nutmegs, the lesser cardamon seed, pimento, and saffron each half an ounce: infuse all these in twelve gallons of clean proof spirit, and draw off ten gallons, with a pretty brisk fire. It may be sweetened or not, at pleasure. This water is a powerful carminative; and good in all flatulent cholics, and other griping pains in the bowels: it is also good in nauseas, and other disorders of the stomach.
Take of cinnamon, ginger, galangal, cloves, nutmegs, grains of paradise, the seeds of anise, sweet fennel, and caraway, each one ounce; the leaves of thyme, mother of thyme, mint, sage, pennyroyal, rosemary, flowers of red roses, camomile, origanum, and lavender, of each eight handfuls; of clean proof spirit, twelve gallons; and water two gallons; digest all twenty-four hours, and then draw off ten gallons, or till the faints begin to rise. Sweeten with fine sugar to your palate. It is a noble cephalic cordial and carminative; and also, in some degrees, an hysteric; good in all cholic pains in the stomach and bowels, and diseases of the nerves.
Take four pounds of cloves bruised, half a pound of pimento or all-spice, and sixteen gallons of clean proof spirits; let it digest twelve hours in a gentle heat, and then draw of fifteen gallons with a pretty brisk fire.
Take four pounds of Winter bark, six ounces of pimento, a pound and a quarter of cloves, and sixteen gallons of clean proof spirits; digest and draw off as before. You may sweeten it to your palate, by dissolving in it double refined sugar.
Take of the leaves of water-cresses, garden and sea-scurvy-grass, and brook-lime, of each twenty handfuls; of pine tops, germander, horehound, and the lesser centaury, each sixteen handfuls; of the roots of briony and sharp pointed dock, each six pounds; of mustard seed one pound and an half; digest the whole in ten gallons of proof spirit, and two gallons of water, and draw off by a gentle fire. It is good against scorbutic disorders; as also in tremblings and disorders of the nerves.
Take the dried peels of citrons and oranges, nutmegs, cloves, and cinnamon, of each one pound; the roots of cypress, florentine orrice, calamus aromaticus, of each eight ounces; zedoary, galangal, and ginger, of each four ounces; the tops of lavender and rosemary, of each sixteen handfuls; the leaves of marjorum, mint, and thyme, of each eight handfuls; the leaves of white and damask roses, of each twelve handfuls; digest the whole two days in ten gallons of proof spirit, and four gallons of damask rose water; after which draw off ten gallons. It is a very good cephalic, and of great use in all nervous case; it is also a very pleasant dram, especially if sweetened with fine sugar, and good upon any sudden sickness of the stomach.
Take of the roots of bryony, four pounds; wild valerian root, one pound; pennyroyal and rue, of each two pounds; the flowers of fever-few and tops of savin, of each four ounces; the rind of fresh orange peel and lovage seeds, of each half a pound; cut or bruise these ingredients, and infuse them in eleven gallons of proof spirit, and two gallons of water, and draw off ten gallons with a gentle heat.
Take of fresh bryony root, four pounds; the leaves of rue and mugmort, of each four pounds; the tops of savin, six handfuls; fever-few, catmint, and pennyroyal, of each four handfuls; orange peel, eight ounces; myrrh, four ounces; Russia castor, two ounces; proof spirit, eleven gallons; water, two gallons: digest and distil as before. It is very forcing upon the uterus, and therefore given to promote delivery, and forward the proper cleansings afterwards; as also to open menstrual obstructions, and in abundance of other female complaints: it is also good against convulsions in children, and of service in all nervous complaints in either sex.
Take fifteen pounds of the dried leaves of pennyroyal, ten gallons of proof spirits, and two gallons of water; draw off ten gallons with a gentle fire. It is a good carminative, of use in cholics and gripings of the bowel; also in plurisies and the jaundice; it is of known efficacy in promoting the menses and other disorders of the female sex.
Take of fresh camomile flowers, four pounds; dill seed, two pounds and an half; leaves of balm, origany, and thyme, of each one pound; seeds of anise and fennel, of each six ounces; cummin seed, four ounces; the peels of oranges and citrons, eight ounces; juniper and bay berries, of each six ounces; cinnamon, eight ounces; mace, four ounces: bruise and digest these ingredients in eleven gallons of proof spirit, and two gallons of water; then draw off ten gallons, and sweeten it with fine sugar. It is good in the cholic and gripings of the bowels, and to remove sickness and nauseas from the stomach.
Take the yellow rinds of five cedrats, a gallon of fine proof spirit, and two quarts of water; digest the whole twenty-four hours in a vessel close stopped; after which draw off one gallon in Balneum Mariæ, and sweeten with fine loaf sugar.
Take the outer rind of three bergamots, a gallon of proof spirit, and two quarts of water; draw off one gallon in Balneum Mariæ, and sweeten it with sugar.
Take of Spanish jessamine flowers, twelve ounces; essence of Florentine citron, or bergamot, eight drops; fine proof spirit, a gallon; water, two quarts: digest two days in a close vessel, after which draw off one gallon, and sweeten with fine loaf sugar.
Take the yellow rinds of two bergamots, or fifty drops of the essence of that fruit; cloves and mace, of each half an ounce; a gallon of proof spirit, and a quart of water: digest two days in a close vessel, draw off a gallon, and sweeten with fine sugar.
Take of white lily flowers, eight handfuls; orange flowers, four ounces; rose water, a quart; proof spirit, a gallon; water, a quart: draw off a gallon in Balneum Mariæ, and sweeten with fine sugar.
Take of the roots of angelica, four ounces; of cinnamon and orris root, each half an ounce; bruise these ingredients in a mortar; put them into an alembic, with a gallon of proof spirit and two quarts of water: draw off a gallon with a pretty brisk fire.
Take of the essence of cedrat, fifty drops; of the essence of bergamot, thirty-six drops; of the essence of citron; sixty drops; and of the essence of Portugal orange, sixty-four drops; fine proof spirit, one gallon; water, two quarts: draw off with a pretty brisk fire till the faints begin to rise, and sweeten with fine sugar.
Take of cinnamon, two ounces; nutmegs and cloves, of each three drachms; and mace, six drachms: bruise the spices in a mortar, and add a gallon of proof spirit, and two quarts of water: digest twenty-four hours in a close vessel, and distil with a brisk fire till the faints begin to rise; and sweeten with fine sugar. It is an excellent stomachic, good in all depressions of the spirits and paralytic disorders.
Take of sweet fennel seed seven ounces; coriander seed, nine ounces; the seeds of angelica and anise, of each three ounces: bruise all these in a mortar, and put them into the still, with ten gallons and an half of proof spirits, and two gallons of water: draw off with a gentle fire till the faints begin to rise, and sweeten with fine sugar. It is good in cholics, nauseas of the stomach and gripings of the bowels.
Take of orange flowers fresh gathered, two pounds; coriander seed, three ounces; nutmegs, half an ounce: bruise the nutmegs and coriander seed, and put them together with the orange flowers, into an alembic, with a gallon of proof spirit, and two quarts of water: draw off the liquor with a gentle fire, till the faints begin to rise, and sweeten with fine sugar.
Take the outer rind of eight large florentine citrons; half an ounce of cinnamon bruised; and a gallon of rectified spirit: distil to a dryness in Balneum Mariæ: then dissolve two pounds of sugar in a quart of water, and mix it with the distilled liquor, and run it through the filtrating bag, which will render it bright and fine.
Take the yellow rind of six bergamots, half an ounce of cinnamon, and two drachms of cloves; bruise the spices, and digest the whole six days in a gallon of rectified spirit; and then add a drachm of saffron, and let the whole stand six days longer in digestion; dissolve two pounds of fine sugar in a quart of water, add to it the tincture, and run it through the filtrating bag.
Take the outer or yellow peels of six citrons; two drachms of mace bruised; a gallon of proof spirit and two quarts of water: draw off with a gentle fire till the faints begin to rise, and sweeten with fine sugar.
Take the outer peels of twelve citrons, three quarts of fine proof spirit, and a quart of water; put all into a glass alembic, and distil to a dryness in Balenum Mariæ; filter the water, and put it into bottles well stopped.
Take the essence of cedrat, bergamot, orange, and lemon, of each two drachms; a gallon of rectified spirit, and two quarts of water: put all into a glass alembic, and distil in Balneum Mariæ till the faints begin to rise, when the receiver must be immediately removed.
Take of the seeds of daucus creticus, or candy carrots, two ounces; a gallon of spirit of wine; and two quarts of water: distil in Balneum Mariæ till the faints begin to rise: then add to the spirit drawn over, an ounce of the essence of lemons, and four drops of the essence of ambergris; redistil in Balneum Mariæ, and keep the water in bottles well stopped for use.
Take of the essence of ambergris, half an ounce; put it into a glass alembic, with a gallon of spirit of wine, and two quarts of water; place the alembic in Balneum Mariæ, and draw off till the faints begin to rise.
Take of the best turpentine a pound and an half; olibanum, three ounces; aloes wood powdered, one ounce; grains of mastic, cloves, gilly-flowers, or rosemary flowers, nutmegs, and cinnamon, of each two ounces and an half; saffron, one ounce: powder the whole, and digest them six days in eleven gallons of spirit of wine; adding two scruples of musk tied up in a rag; and draw off in Balneum Mariæ till it begins to run foul. It is a high aromatic cordial, invigorates the intestines, and thereby promotes digestion, and dispels flatulencies: it is a sovereign remedy for catarrhs and pains arising from colds; as also in palsies, epilepsies, apoplexies and lethargies, the parts affected being well rubbed with it.
Take the flowers of camomile, leaves of pennyroyal, lavender, marjorum, rosemary, sage, and ground-pine, of each eight ounces; myrrh, four ounces; cloves and cinnamon, of each one ounce; roots of piony, two ounces; pellitory of Spain, and cypress orrice, of each one ounce; the lesser cardamoms and cubebs, of each half an ounce; nutmegs, two ounces: cut and bruise these ingredients, and digest them four days in eleven gallons of proof spirit and two gallons of water; then draw off ten gallons, and sweeten with fine sugar. It is good in all nervous cases, palsies, epilepsies, and loss of memory.
Take the flowers of white lilies and Spanish jessamine, of each half a pound; orange, jonquil and pink flowers, of each four ounces; damask roses, one pound; let them all be fresh gathered, and immediately put into a glass alembic, with a gallon of clean proof spirit, and two quarts of water; place the alembic in Balneum Mariæ, and draw off till the faints begin to rise.
THE END
Printed by J.D. Dewick, Westmoreland Buildings, Aldergate Street.