The Family Kitchen Gardener (1856)/Asparagus
ASPARAGUS.
Aspáragus officinàlis—Asperge, Fr.—Spargel, Ger.
This universal vegetable is supposed to be a native of Great Britain, where it is found on banks of sandy soil contiguous to the sea, growing luxuriantly under the salt breezes. Cultivators have found that salt brine, or a thin covering of salt thrown over the beds in the Fall, before they have their final dressing, proves very beneficial to its growth. Although it is not considered a very nutricious vegetable, yet it occupies a considerable proportion of every garden, and is extensively cultivated for our markets—some growers having eight or ten acres under culture, and I have no doubt that in a very few years it will be increased ten-fold.
Propagation.—This is accomplished only by seeds. When a new bed is formed, in order to save time, two or three-year old plants may be procured from Nurserymen or Gardeners, at a very low rate. There are several varieties of Asparagus named in catalogues, but there is a great similarity among them, and we will class them into two only, the Green-top and the Purple-top. The former is round in the top and of a bright green color. The latter of a purple reddish-green color, very close headed, and is the sort generally cultivated. There is another supposed variety called the Giant, which is greatly extolled by Seedsmen on account of its size, but I believe the principal secret lies in the quality of the soil and the superiority of culture. Sow the seed early in Spring, (about a pound will be sufficient for a family), thinly, in drills, one and a-half to two inches deep, and eighteen inches from row to row—in good, rich, sandy, loamy soil, well manured and prepared. Strong one-year old plants are much better for transplanting than those of even three years' old, when the growth has been indifferent. Rake the ground even, and keep it free from weeds by frequent hoeing. About the first of the following November, some stable litter should be spread over the ground, to keep the young roots from frost.
Culture.—The best ground for Asparagus is a light, sandy loam, at least two feet deep. Before planting it should be dug very deep or trenched in the way we have recommended, burying in plenty of manure, as no more can be supplied after the beds are planted (unless by surface dressings). The ground can scarcely be too rich, for the sweetness and tenderness of the shoots depend on the rapidity of the growth, which is greatly promoted by the richness of the soil. A plot of ground twenty feet wide and from forty to fifty feet long will be suitable for a moderate-sized family. Over it sow from fifty to one hundred pounds of salt, incorporating it with the soil to the depth of four or five inches. The ground having been well prepared and pro perly leveled, divide it off into beds four feet wide. with alleys of two fect between them. The work should all be done in fine wea ther, about the end of March. Drive in a strong stake at each corner, take up the plants carefully from the seed-rows with a fork, and expose them to the air as little as possible, keeping them covered during the time of planting, and not allowing the roots to get dry. Stretch a line lengthwise along the bed, nine inches from the edge, and with a spade cut a small furrow, six inches deep. Having the plants ready, set a row along the trench, nine inches apart, with the crown of the roots two inches below the surface, drawing a little earth upon them to fix them as placed. Having finished a row, cover them directly with the earth that has been thrown out of the furrow, raking it regularly and to an equal depth over the crown of the plants. Proceed to open another furrow a foot from the first; plant and finish it as above, when you will have four rows to each bed. After all is planted, rake the beds lengthwise, drawing off all stones and rubbish; dress the surface neatly and evenly. Let the edges be lined out in exact order, allowing two feet to each alley. As these alleys will be of little service the first season, and no waste ground should ever be seen in a garden, dig them up and plant a row of cabbage in each. Nothing further will be required during the Summer than to destroy all weeds. The following Winter cover them to the depth of three or four inches with rotten manure, to keep the crowns from sun and frost; if, in the Spring, the earth is found to have settled in any part, the deficiency must be made up with more mould. It is a common practice to sow Radishes upon the beds, but it is an injurious one, as it robs the ground of a great portion of its nutriment, so essential to their luxuriant growth. The plants are permitted the two first years to run up to stalks, that strong crowns may be formed at their base for the future crop.
After the third year, the beds will require the following mode of treatment. From the middle of October to the end of November give them their winter dressing, which consists in cutting down the stalks close to the ground and clearing the beds from weeds; drawing them off at the same time with a rake into the alleys, to be buried or taken to the compost heap to be mixed up with other litter and again returned to the soil. Cover the whole of the bed with two or three inches of manure; the alleys must be dug spade deep, at the same time spreading some soil over the manure on the beds, and leveling the whole evenly. It may be supposed that the annual dressing in this way will in a few years considerably raise the beds; but by the Spring forking and raking, together with the hoeing and dressing during Summer, a considerable portion of the earth is being continually drawn again into the alleys.
As soon as the frost is fairly out of the ground in the Spring, loosen the surface of the beds with a fork, introducing it three or four inches into the soil, turning up the earth with care not to wound the crown of the roots. Then make the surface of the beds even and equal, drawing off the rough earth, stones, &e., into the alleys; finish by stretching a line along the edge of the beds, and trim them neatly off with the spade. Stirring the bed in this manner enables the shoots to rise in free growth; admits the air, rain, and sunshine into the ground, and encourages the roots to produce buds of a strong size. A full crop may be expected the fourth season after planting. The proper method of cutting them is to scrape a little of the carth away from each shoot; then, with a sharp-pointed, long-bladed knife, cut off the shoot slantingly, about three inches under the surface, taking care not to wound the younger buds that are advancing below in different stages of growth. It is in the best state for cutting when it is four inches above ground, and while the top remains close and round. The cutting should never extend beyond the middle of June.
Asparagus beds, with good culture, will continue to give bountiful crops for twelve or fifteen years. It is frequently forced on dung hot-beds, and in the hands of the initiated, with great success; but to go into the general minutiæ of foreing vegetables, would take us entirely beyond cur limits; a few hints however, will give an idea of the operation. Propare a hot-bed of two lights, in the way we have direeted for cucumbers, about two feet high at back and twenty inches in front. Cover it with four inches of soil; lay thereon roots that are at least four years old; cover them three inches with the same soil, and give the whole a copious watering. Admit air at the back by tilting the sash daily, in sunshine. In two weeks, or three at most, you may expect to be able to cut for the table. A bed of this sort will produce daily, or at least every two days, a dish for the table, and continue in bearing three or four weeks. The process may be carried to the extent of the demand. Where properly managed, it will fully compensate either as a luxury or a marketable article.