The History and Description of the Isle of Man

by George Waldron

THE
HISTORY
AND
DESCRIPTION
OF THE
ISLE of MAN:

VIZ.

Its Antiquity, History, Laws, Customs, Religion and Manners of its Inhabitants, its Animals, Minerals, Curious and Authentick Relations os Apparitions of Giants that have liv'd under the Castle Time immemorial.

Likewise many Comical and Entertaining Stories of the Pranks play'd by Fairies, &c.

The Whole carefully collected from Original Papers and Personal Knowledge, during near Twenty Years Residence there.

The Second Edition.

LONDON:

Printed for W. Bickerton, in the Temple-Exchange Passage, Fleetstreet, 1744.

(Price One Shilling and Six Pence.)

A
DESCRIPTION
OF THE
Isle of MAN.

BETWEEN Great Britain and Ireland there is stretched out a considerable Island from North to South, about Thirty Italian Miles in Length; but where widest, not above Fifteen in Breadth. The several ancient Writers have given it several Names: by Cæsar 'tis called Mona; by Ptolemy, Monœda; by Pliny, Monabia; and the same Variety appears in such of our Modern Authors, as make mention of it. It was first inhabited by the Britons, then by the Scots, or Picts, and afterwards by the Norwegians, who had it in their Possession a long Time: it since passed thro' a strange Diversity of Revolutions, and at length, fell into the Hands of the English, about the latter End of Edward the First, and remains to this Day under their Jurisdiction. It has had several Lords; such generally as had the greatest Interest in our Princes: till the Grant hereof, together with the Patronage of the Bishoprick, was made to Sir John Stanley, and his Heirs, by King Henry the Fourth; in which Family it is still continued.

Thus far the Account given by Mr. Moll in his Compleat Geographer may be depended on, but he is guilty of a gross Mistake, in saying the Soil is extremely fruitful, and produces Wheat, Rye, and Barley, in such Plenty, that it not only furnishes the Inhabitants, but likewise allows great Quantities to be exported. Whereas 'tis notoriously known, that the little Wheat they have, is so bad, that those who eat Bread made of it, have the Corn from England or Ireland. As for Rye, I never saw any there; Barley for the most part they have enough of, to make Malt for themselves, but never to send abroad. Oats is their chief Produce, of which they make Bread, as also of Potatoes; the Land affording such Abundance, that Fields of them are almost as common as Grass.

As to the Seasons, three Parts of the Year is Winter, and the vast Quantity of Snow and Rain, that are almost continually falling, swells the Rivers to that Degree, that they frequently overflow the Lands, and do much Damage; great Numbers of small Cattle, such as Sheep, Goats, and Hogs, being lost in them. Notwithstanding this, the Air is very wholsome, the Plague, nor any other contagious Distemper having never been known there, and the People generally live to a very great Age.

The Black Cattle of this Island are excellently good, but small, as also their Sheep: it abounds in Hogs and Goats, Kid being as commonly eat there as Lamb in England. They have great Store of Poultry of all Sorts, except Turkies, which being hard to rear, are not to be found but in particular Families. The near Neighbourhood of the Sea, and the Number of Rivers, afford very fine Fish of all Kind, but especially Salmon and Cod: tho' Herrings are the chief Food of the poor People, which are salted up in the Season to last for the whole Year.

The Island being very rocky, the Buildings are mostly Stone, I mean those which are inhabited by the Gentry; for the others, they are no more than Cabins built of Sods, and covered with the same, except a few belonging to the better Sort of Farmers, which are thatched with Straw: but in the midst of the utmost Irregularity, they have two Conveniencies, which sometimes the best ordered Houses cannot boast of, the finest Brooks in the World running continually near them, and Turf, which makes a very sweet Firing, at their very Doors. Their Towns are six in Number, and called,

• Castle-Town, or Russin.
• Duglas.
• Peel, or Pile.
• Ramsay.
• Ballasalli.
• Macguires, or New-Town.

Of these I shall give a particular Description, having spent a great deal of Time in examining several Curiosities and Antiquities which I believe no Author has yet ever treated on, but are very worthy of Observation. And first of Castle-Town;

It is the Metropolis of the Island, and the Place where most of the Persons of any Note chuse to have their Residence, because the Governour keeps his Court in it; the Castle is a fine ancient Building, and has been honoured with the Presence of several of the Lords of Man; the late Earl of Derby continued there some time, but his present Lordship (A. 1726) has never yet vouchsafed to visit it. The Courts of Judicature are also kept here, and what Records of the Island are yet remaining: but the greatest Part of them, in troublesome Times, were carried away by the Norwegians, and deposited among the Archives of the Bishops of Drunton in Norway, where they still remain; tho' a few Years since, Mr. Stevenson, an eminent, worthy, and learned Merchant of Dublin, offered the then Bishop of Drunton a considerable Sum of Money for the Purchase of them, designing to restore, and present them to the Island, but the Bishop of Drunton would not part with them on any Terms.

The Abridger of Camden's Britannia makes mention of a little Isle within this Town, where Pope Gregory the Fourth erected an Episcopal See; but at present, there is no such Place to be found: nor is it probable it can have been. swallowed up by the Sea, there being no low Grounds, but a high mountainous Shore all along that Part of the Island. He farther says, that, among the Hebrides, generally reckoned Forty-four in Number, was the Isle Iona, lying between Ila and Scotland, and called by Bede, Hy or Hu; and that, there was a Bishop's See erected in Sodore, a small Village, from which all the Islanders took the Name of Sodorenses, being all contained in his Diocess. But nothing is more certain, than that this Opinion is erroneous; for the Bishops of Man, do not take their Title of Sodor srom the Island so called, but srom the Church at Peel, called Ecclesia Sodorensis, dedicated to our Saviour (Σωτὴρ). This is not only maintained by Archbishop Spotswood, and the most judicious Antiquaries, and Historians, but by the Tradition of the Natives themselves: Nor do I see any Reason to believe the Bishops of Man ever had any Jurisdiction over the Hebrides because, were it so, some Accounts would have been handed down to Posterity, by what Means they had lost it: and as there is nothing but the Name of Sodor to countenance that Opinion, the Objection against it may casily be answered by what I have said.

The great Officers of the Island are first the Governour, who under the Lord of Man has the entire Command of it; secondly, the two Deempsters, who are the Judges in Matters Civil and Criminal; thirdly, the Comptroller, who calls the Receiver-General to an Account; and fourthly, the Receiver-General, in whose Hands, all the inferior Collectors deposite the Rents due to the Lord.

Just at the Entrance of the Castle is a great Stone Chair for the Governour, and two lesser for the Deempsters. Here they try all Causes, except Ecclesiastick, which are entirely under the Decision of the Bishop; when you are past this little Court, you enter into a long winding Passage between two high Walls, not much unlike what is described of Rosamond's Labyrinth at Woodstock; in case of an Attack, Ten Thousand Men might be destroyed by a very few, in attempting to enter. The Extremity of it brings you to a Room where the Keys fit; they are Twenty-four in Number, they call them the Parliament; but in my Opinion, they more resemble our Juries in England; because the Business of their Meeting is to adjust Differences between the Common People, and are locked in till they have. given their Verdict. They may be said in this Sense indeed, to be supreme Judges, because from them there is no Appeal but to the Lord himself.

A little farther, is an Apartment which has never been opened in the Memory of Man; the Persons belonging to the Castle, are very cautious in giving any Reason for it, but the Natives, who are excessively superstitious, assign this; That there is something of Inchantment in it. They tell you, that the Castle was at first inhabited by Fairies, and afterwards by Giants, who continued in the Possession of it till the Days of Merlin, who by the Force of Magic dislodg'd the greatest Part of them, and bound the rest in Spells, which they believe will be indissoluble to the End of the World: For Proof of this, they tell you a very odd Story: They say there are a great Number of fine Apartments under-ground, exceeding in Magnificence any of the upper Rooms; several Men of more than ordinary Courage, have in former Times ventured down to explore the Secrets of this subterraneous Dwelling-Place, but none of them ever returned to give an Account of what they saw; it was therefore judged convenient that all the Passes. to it, should be kept continually shut, that no more might suffer by their Temerity. But about some Fifty or Fifty-five Years since, a Person who had an uncommon Boldness and Resolution, never lest solliciting Permission of those who had the Power to grant it, to visit those dark Abodes: in fine, he obtain'd his Request, went down, and returned by the Help of a Clue of Packthread, which he took with him, which no Man before himself had ever done; and brought this amazing Discovery, viz. That after having passed through a great Number of Vaults, he came into a long narrow Place, which the farther he penetrated, he perceived he went more and more on a Deseent, till having travelled, as near as he could guess, for the Space of a Mile, he began to see a little Gleam of Light, which, tho' it seemed to come from a vast Distance, yet was the most delightful Sight he had ever beheld in his Life. Having at length come to the End of that Lane of Darkness, he perceived a very large and magnificent House, illuminated with a great many Candles, whence proceeded the Light just now mentioned: having, before he begun this Expedition, well fortified himself with Brandy, he had Courage enough to knock at the Door, which a Servant, at the third Knock, having open'd, asked him what he wanted. I would go as far as I can, reply'd our Adventurer; be so kind therefore to direct me how to accomplish my Design, for I see no Passage but that dark Cavern through which I came. The Servant told him, he must go thro' that House, and accordingly led him through a long Entry, and out at a Back-Door. He then walked a considerable Way, and at last beheld another House, more magnificent than the first; and the Windows being all open, discovered innumerable Lamps burning in every Room. Here he designed also to knock, but had the Curiosity to step on a little Bank which commanded a low Parlour; on looking in, he beheld a vast Table in the Middle of the Room of Black Marble, and on it, extended at full Length, a Man, or rather Monster; for by his Account, he could not be less than Fourteen Feet long, and Ten or Eleven round the Body. This prodigious Fabrick lay as if sleeping, with his Head on a Book, and a Sword by him, of a Size answerable to the Hand which 'tis supposed made Use of it. This Sight was more terrifying to the Traveller, than all the dark and dreary Mansions he had passed through in his Arrival to it: he resolved therefore not to attempt Entrance into a Place inhabited by Persons of that unequal Stature, and made the best of his Way back to the other House, where the same Servant re-conducted, and informed him, that if he had knocked at the second Door, he would have seen Company enough, but never could have return'd. On which he desired to know what Place it was, and by whom possessed; but the other reply'd, that these Things were not to be revealed. He then took his Leave, and by the same dark Passage got into the Vaults, and soon after, once more ascended to the Light of the Sun.

Ridiculous as this Narrative appears, whoever seems to disbelieve it, is looked on as a Person of a weak Faith: but tho' this might be sufficient to prove. their Superstition, I cannot forbear making mention of another Tradition, they have and of a much longer standing. I have already taken Notice that their most ancient Records were taken away in a Norwegian Conquest, which renders it impossible to be certain how long the Island has been sound out, or by whom: to make up this Deficiency, they tell you this History of it.

Some Hundred Years, say they, before the Coming of our Saviour, the Isle of Man was inhabited by a certain Species called Fairies, and that every Thing was carried on in a Kind of supernatural Manner; that a blue Mist hanging continually over the Land, prevented the Ships that passed by, from having any Suspicion there was an Island. This Mist, contrary to Nature, was preserved by keeping a perpetual Fire, which happening once to be extinguished, the Shore discover'd itself to some Fishermen who were then in a Boat on their Vocation, and by them Notice was given to the People of some Country, (but what, they do not pretend to determine) who sent Ships in order to make a further Discovery: That on their landing, they had a fierce Encounter with the little People, and having got the better over them, possess'd themselves of Castle Russin, and by degrees, as they received Reinforcements, of the whole Island. These new Conquerors maintained their Ground some time, but were at length beaten out by a Race of Giants, who were not extirpated, as I said before, till the Reign of Prince Arthur, by Merlin, the famous British Enchanter. They pretend also, that this Island afterward became an Asylum to all the distress'd Princes and Great Men in Europe, and that those uncommon Fortifications made about Peel-Castle were added for their better Security: but of this, I shall treat more copiously when I come to the Description of that Place.

The Tradition of what happened on suffering the domestic Fire to be extinct, remains in such Credit with them, that not a Family in the whole Island, to this day, of the Natives but keeps a small Quantity continually burning, no one daring to depend on his Neighbour's Vigilance in a Thing which he imagines is of so much consequence: every one confidently believing, that if it should ever happen that no Fire were to be found throughout, most terrible Revolutions and Mischiefs would immediately ensue.

The Castle, as also the two Walls which encompass it, and are broad enough for three Persons to walk a-breast on, are all of Free-stoue, which is the only Building in the Island of that fort. Within the Walls is a small Tower adjoining to the Castle, where formerly State-Prisoners were kept, but serves now as a Store-house for the Lord Derby's Wines; it has a Moat round it, and Draw-bridge, and is a very strong Place. On the other side of the Castle, is the Governour's House, which is very commodious and spacious. Here is also a fine Chapel, where Divine Service is celebrated Morning and Afternoon, and several Offices belonging to the Court of Chancery.

In this Town are the most regular: Buildings in general of the whole Island, and within a short Mile of it is Derby-Haven, which is by much the best Harbour they can boast of, and has a very strong Fort in the Mouth of it.

Duglas, so called from the two Rivers running into that Harbour, and called the black and the grey Waters, must fall next under our Consideration, as being the Town of the most Trade; and tho' the Buildings are very indifferent, and the near Neighbourhood of the Sea, which sometimes runs mountain high, and in tempestuous Weather, threatens the Inhabitants with an Inundation; yet is full of very rich and eminent Dealers. The Reason of which is plain; the Harbour of it being the most frequented of any in the Island, by Dutch, Irish, and East-India Vessels, there is the utmost Opportunity, that can be wished, for carrying on the Smugling Trade. So much, it must be confess'd, do some Men prefer their Gain to their Safety, that they will venture it any where, but in this Place there is little Danger in infringing on the Rights of the Crown. And here I must inform my Reader, that tho' his most Excellent Majesty of Great Britain is Master of the Seas, yet the Lord of Man has the Jurisdiction of so much round the Island, that a Master of a Ship has no more to do than to watch his Opportunity of coming within the Piles, and he is secure from any. Danger from the King's Officers. I myself had once Notice of a stately Pirate that was steering her Course into this Harbour, and would have boarded her before The got within the Piles, but for want of being able to get sufficient Help, could not execute my Design. Her Cargo was Indico, Mastic, Raisins of the Sun, and other very rich Goods, which I had the Mortification to see sold to the Traders of Duglas without the least Duty paid to his Majesty. The same Ship was taken afterwards near the Coast, by the Information I sent of it to the Commissioners of the Customs.

Peel, or Pile-Town, is so called from its Garrison and Castle; tho' in effect the Castle cannot properly be said to be in the Town, an Arm of the Sea running between them, which in high Tides would be deep enough to bear a Ship of Forty or Fifty Tun, tho' sometimes quite drained of salt Water; but when it is supply'd with fresh by a River which runs from Kirk Jarmyn Mountains, and empties itself in the Sea. This Castle for its Situation, Antiquity, Strength, and Beauty, might justly come in for one of the Wonders of the World. Art and Nature seem to have vied with each other in the Model, nor ought the most minute Particular to escape Observation.

As to its Situation, it is built upon the Top of a huge Rock, which rears itself a stupendous Height above the Sea, with which, as I said before, it is surrounded. And also by natural Fortifications of other lesser Rocks, which renders it unaccessible but by passing that little Arm of the Sea which divides it from the Town; this you may do in a small Boat: and the Natives, tucking up their Cloaths under their Arms, and plucking off their Shoes and Stockings, frequently wade it in low Tides. When you arrive at the foot o⟨f⟩ the Rock, you ascend about some Threescore Steps, which are cut out of it to the first Wall, which is immensely thick and high, and built of a very durable and bright Stone, tho' not of the same sort with that of Castle Russin in Castle-Town; and has on it four little Houses, or Watch-Towers, which overlook the Sea. The Gates are Wood, but most curiously arched, carved, and adorned with Pilasters. Having passed the first, you have other Stairs of near half the number with the former, to mount before you come at the second Wall, which, as well as the other, is full of Port-holes for Cannon, which are planted on Stone Crosses on a third Wall.

Being entered, you find yourself in a wide Plain, in the midst of which stands the Castle, encompassed by Four Churches, Three of which, Time has so much decayed, that there is little remaining besides the Walls, and some few Tombs, which seem to have been erected with so much Care, as to perpetuate the Memory of those buried in them, till the final Dissolution of all Things. The fourth is kept a little better in Repair, but not so much for its own sake, tho' it has been the most magnificent of them all, as for a Chappel within it, which is appropriated to the Use of the Bishop, and has under it a Prison, or rather Dungeon, for those Offenders who are so miserable as to incur the spiritual Censure; this is certainly one of the most dreadful Places that Imagination can form, the Sea runs under it thro' the Hollows of the Rock with such a continual Roar, that you would think it were every Moment breaking in upon you, and over it are the Vaults for burying the Dead. The Stairs descending to this Place of Terrors are not above Thirty, but so steep and narrow, that they are very difficult to go down, a Child of eight or nine Years old not being able to pass them but sideways. Within it are Thirteen Pillars, on which the whole Chappel is supported: They have a Superstition that whatsoever Stranger goes to see this Cavern out of Curiosity, and omits to acount the Pillars, shall do something to occasion being confined there.

There are Places for Penance also under all the other Churches, containing several very dark and horrid Cells; some have nothing in them either to sit or lie down on, others a small Piece of Brickwork; some are lower and more dark than others, but all of them, in my Opinion, dreadful enough for almost any Crime Humanity is capable of being guilty of, tho' 'tis supposed they were built with different Degrees of Horror, that the Punishment might be proportionate to the Faults of those Wretches who were to be confined in them. These have never been made use of, since the Times of Popery: but that under the Bishop's Chappel is the common, and only Prison for all Offences in the Spiritual Court; and to that the Delinquents are sentenced. But the Soldiers of the Garrison permit them to suffer their Confinement in the Castle, it being morally impossible for the strongest Constitution to sustain the Damps and Noisomness of the Cavern even for a sew Hours, much less for Months and Years, as is the Punishment sometimes allotted. But I shall speak hereafter more fully of the Severity of the Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction.

'Tis certain that here have been very great Architects in this Island; for the noble Monuments in this Church, which is kept in Repair, and indeed in the Ruins of the others also, show the Builders to be Masters of all the Orders in that Art, tho' the great Numbers of Doric Pillars prove them to be chiefly Admirers of that.

Nor are the Epitaphs and Inscriptions on the Tomb-Stones less worthy of Remark: the various Languages in which they are engraved, testify by what a Diversity of Nations this little Spot of Earth has been possess'd. Tho' Time has defaced too many of the Letters to render the Remainder intelligible, yet you may easily perceive Fragments of the Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabian, Saxon, Scotch, and Irish Characters: some Dates yet visible, declare they were written before the Coming of Christ; and indeed if one. considers the Walls, the Thickness of them, and the Durableness of the Stone: of which they are composed, one must be sensible that a great Number of Centuries must pass before such strong Workmanship could be reduced to the Condition it now is. These Churches, therefore, were. doubtless once the Temples of Pagan Deities, tho' since consecreated to the Worship of the true Divinity; and what confirms me more strongly in this Conjecture, is, that there is still a Part of one remaining, where stands a large Stone directly in Form and Manner like the Tripos's, which in those Days of Ignorance, the Priests stood upon, to deliver their fabulous Oracles.

Through one of these old Churches, there was formerly a Passage to the Apartment belonging to the Captain of the Guard, but is now closed up. The Reason they give you for it, is a pretty odd one; but as I think it not sufficient Satisfaction to my curious Reader, to acquaint him with what fort of Buildings this Island affords, without letting him know also what Traditions are concerning them, I shall have little Regard to the Censure of those Criticks, who find fault with every thing out of the common Road; and in this, as well as in all other Places, where it falls in my Way, shall make it my Endeavour to lead him into the Humours and very Souls of the Manks People.

They say, that an Apparition called, in their Language, the Mauthe Doog, in the shape of a large black Spaniel with curled Thaggy Hair, was used to haunt Peel Castle; and has been frequently seen in every Room, but particularly in the Guard-Chamber, where, as soon as Candles were lighted, it came and lay down before the Fire in presence of all the Soldiers, who at length, by being so much accustomed to the Sight of it, lost great Part of the Terror they were seized with at its first Appearance. They still, however, retain'd a certain Awe, as believing it was an Evil Spirit which only waited Permission to do them Hurt, and for that Reason, forbore Swearing and all prophane Discourse while in its Company. the' they endured the Shock of such a Guest when all together in a Body, none cared to be lest alone with it: it being the Custom, therefore, for one of the Soldiers to lock the Gates of the Castle at a certain Hour, and carry them to the Captain, to whose Apartment, as I said before, the Way led through a Church; they agreed among themselves, that whoever was to succeed the ensuing Night, his Fellow in this Errand should accompany him that went first, and by this means, no Man would be expos'd singly to the Danger: for I forgot to mention that the Mauthe Doog was always seen to come from that Passage at the Close of Day, and return to it again as soon as the Morning dawned; which made them look on this Place as its peculiar Residence.

One Night a Fellow being drunk, and by the Strength of his Liquor rendred more daring than ordinary, laugh'd at the Simplicity of his Companions, and tho' it was not his Turn to go with the Keys, would needs take that Office upon him, to testify his Courage. All the Soldiers endeavour'd to dissuade him, but the more they said, the more resolute he seemed, and swore that he desired nothing more than that Mauthe Doog would follow him, as it had done the others, for he would try if it were Dog, or Devil. After having talked in a very reprobate manner for some Time, he snatched up the Keys and went out of the Guard-Room: in some Time after his Departure a great Noise was heard, but nobody had the Boldness to see what occasioned it, till the Adventurer returning, they demanded the Knowledge of him; but as loud and noisy as he had been at leaving them, he was now become sober and silent enough, for he was never heard to speak more: and tho' all the Time he lived, which was three Days, he was entreated by all who come near him, either to speak, or if he could not do that, to make some Signs, by which they might understand what had happened to him, yet nothing intelligible could be got from him, only, that by the Distortion of his Limbs and Features, it might be guess'd that he died in Agonies more than is common in a natural Death.

The Mauthe Doog was, however, never seen after in the Castle, nor would any one attempt to go thro' that Passage, for which Reason it was closed up, and another Way made. This Accident happened about Threescore Years since, and I heard it attested by several, but especially by an old Soldier, who assured me he had seen it oftener than he had then Hairs on his Head.

Having taken Notice of every thing remarkable in the Churches, I believe my Reader will be impatient to come to the Castle itself, which, in spite of the Magnificence the Pride of modern Ages has adorned the Palaces of Princes with, exceeds not only every thing I have seen, but also read of, in Nobleness of Structure. Tho' now no more than a Garrison for Soldiers, you cannot enter it without being struck with a Veneration, which the most beautiful Buildings of later Years cannot inspire you with; the Largeness and Loftiness of the Rooms, the vast Eccho resounding thro' them, the many winding Galleries, the Prospect of the Sea, and the Ships, which by reason of the Height of the Place, seem but like Buoys floating on the Waves, makes you fancy yourself in a superior Orb to what the rest of Mankind inhabit, and fills you with Contemplations the most refined and pure that the Soul is capable of conceiving.

The Situation, Strength, and Magnificence of this Edifice, inclines me very much to believe what the Natives say it was built for, the Education of young Princes, for certainly Study and Meditation can no where be more indulged. Happy were it for the Youth of England, if our Universities had the same Advantage, so many of our Nobility and Gentry would not then imbibe a Corruption of Morals with an Improvement of Learning.

It was in this Castle that Eleanor, Wise to Humphrey Duke of Gloucester, Uncle to King Henry VI. and Lord Protector of England, was confined, after being banished thro' the Malice of the Duke of Suffolk, and Cardinal of Winchester, who accused her of having been guilty of associating herself with Wizards and Witches, to know if her Husband would ever attain the Crown, and other treasonable Practices. Sir John Stanley then Lord of Man, had the Charge of her, and having conducted her to the Island, placed her in this Castle; where she lived in a Manner befitting her Dignity, nothing but Liberty being refused: she appeared however so turbulent and impatient under this Confinement, that he was obliged to keep a Guard over her, not only because there were daily Attempts made to get her away, but also to prevent her from laying violent Hands on her own Life. They tell you, that ever since her Death, to this Hour, a Person is heard to go up the stone Stairs of one of these little Houses on the Walls, constantly every Night as soon as the Clock has struck Twelve; but I never heard any one say they had seen what it was, tho' the general Conjecture is, that it is no other than the troubled Spirit of this Lady, who died, as she had lived, dissatisfied, and murmuring at her Fate.

I could dwell much longer on the Description of a Place which I so much admire; but I sear being tedious, and shall therefore conduct my Reader from the Castle to the Town, which is long, but narrow, few People of any Distinction dwelling here, most of the Houses are but a better fort of Cabins. Here is a very good Harbour, and much resorted to by the Scotch and Irish Vessels, being the nearest to them.

Ramsay is the next Town of Note, and the Inhabitants, as the Buildings, are a degree genteeler than those of Peel; but has no great matter in it, worthy the Observation of a Traveller, except an excellent Harbour and good Fort.

Nor has Ballasalli any thing to boast of, beside a fine River running thro' it, a good Air to whiten Cloth, and a Market for Fowls, where you may have the greatest Choice of any Place in the Island.

Macguires, or New-Town, was a waste Piece of Ground, till after his late Majesty's Accession to the Crown; when one Macguire, a Native of Ireland, and Tenant to Lord Darby, built a large House on it for himself, and several little ones to let out at yearly Rent. 'Tis yet, however, no more than a Village, but in Compliment to him is called a Town, and after his Name: it is in a pleasant and convenient Part of the Island, for which reason, 'tis believed, 'twill hereafter be enlarged.

These Towns are divided into Seventeen Parishes, which I shall give you the Names of in the Order they stand in the Register.

Kirk Farmyn.

• Kirk Patrick.
• Kirk Michaell.
• Kirk Ballaugh.
• Kirk Furby.
• Kirk Bride.
• Kirk Candras.
• Kirk Christlesare.
• Kirk Mahal.
• Kirk Lennon.
• Kirk Canton.
• Kirk Braddon.
• Kirk Maroan.
• Kirk Santon.
• Kirk Merlugh.
• Kirk Carbra.
• Kirk Christ-Russin.

When Dr. Wilson, Bishop of Man, was about publishing his short, but exact Account of the Island, he ordered all his Parochial Clergy to send him a List of the Number of Souls, including Strangers, in their respective Parishes, which at that Time, amounted to no more than 14,500, tho' through a Mistake of the Printer, the Number published, was 15,000; but since that, so many Irish Families have come over and settled there, that the Account is greatly encreased.

As to their Laws, they are but few, but severely executed, especially, as I before observed, those of the Ecclesiastick Court, the Clergy holding a kind of tyrannical Jurisdiction over the Manks People, in spite of the temporal Power, which is continually endeavouring to abate the Rigour of it, but in vain: for these spiritual Masters are, in a manner, idolized by the Natives; and they take care to maintain their Authority by keeping the Laity in the most miserable Ignorance: not that this is altogether Policy, for he cannot well instruct, who wants to be taught himself. What eminent Men this Island has formerly bred, I know not, but at present I hear of none famous abroad; nor can it boast of any more at home than one Clergyman, who is indeed a Man of Letters, and who, I hope, will oblige the publick with his instructive and polite Writings. He, considering the profound Ignorance of his Countrymen, for their sakes undertook a Translation of the New Testament into the Manks Tongue; of which Work he had (as I have been credibly informed) finished the four Gospels, and had proceeded in it, if the Publication thereof had not been prohibited by a superior Power. Books written in the Manks Tongue, they have none, except a Catechism, and Instructions for Youth, with some Prayers not many Years since compiled.

Some who are willing to entertain the most favourable Opinion of this People, impute their general Ignorance to their want of Books; but I, who have lived and conversed some Time among them, attribute their Want of Books to their innate Ignorance. That this Suggestion is not without Grounds, appears from the little Progress made in Learning by those who have had the happy Advantage of finishing their Education in a Scotch or Irish College, which is commonly the Case of such as are designed for Holy Orders; notwithstanding which, we find none of their Writings made publick, nor would most of their Sremons passon any but a Manks Congregation. If to this they object that their Language is obscure, and not well known in the World, let them write (as they frequently preach) in English, or in Latin, a Language universally ⟨k⟩nown to the learned World. To prevent Controversies and support their imperious Sway, the Clergy (like those of the Church of Rome) hold the Laity under blind abject Obedience; of which take this Instance: When I once, in Conversation with two young Clergymen, lamented the abovementioned Prohibition, which debar'd the common People (who speak only their own Language) from the delightful Benefit, and necessary Duty of searching the Scriptures, they agreed in this Answer, That it was happy for the People, that the Scriptures were lock'd up from them, for it prevented Divisions in the Interpretation of them, which was given to themselves, and to themselves only, by their Great Dictator, who had substituted them his Vicars and the Interpreters of his Law. It may, perhaps, not be unworthy the Consideration of that Power which presides over the Diocess of Man, whether the greater Inconvenience accrues from a Publication, or a Suppression of the Translation I spoke of? In the first Case, what was objected by the Clergymen is not without some Grounds, viz. that such a Translation would lay the Scriptures open to the different Interpretations of ignorant, prejudiced, or evildesigning Men, and raise Disputes even in Matters of Faith, carried on in a Language strange to their Metropolitan, nay even to their Diocesan; by which means the unspotted Discipline of the Church might be polluted, her pure Doctrine corrupted, the Laws of God perverted or broken, his Holy Name blasphemed, and yet the great Offender escape unpunish'd, nay, untry'd. Yet for all this, such a Translation is earnestly to be desired, when we consider the miserable Condition of that unhappy People, who, surrounded by the most learned Nations of Europe, remain in a State of utter Ignorance, and rather imitate than conform to the purest Church of God upon Earth. They hear the Scriptures read, but not expounded, every Sabbath. Their Prayer-Books and Bibles are printed in English, and the Minister mentally translates the Service into the Manks Tongue, as he delivers it to the People. From these two Considerations I draw this Question, as before mentioned, Whether the greater Inconvenience or Evil accrues from a Publication or Suppression of a Translation? On the one hand, there would be a fix'd, certain, known Rule of Faith, of which the People might in another Generation be brought to comprehend, that is, if those who ought to instruct them would do it) and by which they would be govern'd. As the Case now stands, they are directed by the various Interpretations of various Preachers; nay, by the various Interpretations of one Preacher; for who can suppose that any Man shall at all Times (tho' on the same Subject) use the same Expressions, Words, or Terms. Does not this Method open a Door to that endless Confusion, which some think they prudently exclude by prohibiting the Publication. Besides, without being accounted malicious, would not any disinterested Person ask the Question, why these People are so ignorant, why there is not better Care taken in forming their Youth? But I shall add no more on this Head, lest I be thought by some (whose earthly and spiritual Welfare I heartily wish) too busily concerned in an Affair which they may think foreign to me; but let them consider, Christianus sum, Christiani nibil a me alienum puto. Leaving then this Question, I shall say something of their Method of instructing the People, young and old.

First, of their Schools: The Masters of them are generally chosen out of the Clergy: how improperly the Motto over St. Paul's School, Ingredere ut Proficies, would suit one of these, may be easily concluded from the Character of the Learning of these temporal Masters; but as no more is reasonably to be expected from any Man than he is capable of performing, the great Deficiency in the scholastic Part of the Education of Youth here, we will, in Charity, rather reckon a Misfortune than a Fault or Neglect in the Teachers. Yet one Error, and that an enormous one, I cannot omit mentioning, that they admit into their Schools the Children of Papists, as it were, for no other purpose than to keep them in Ignorance, taking so little regard of them, that like Betrayers of their Profession in every Capacity, they suffer them to go on in Blindness, and divert themselves with Fables or Legends; while other Boys of the same Age, are instructed in an Explanation of the Church Catechism, publish'd in English and Manks for that purpose, and are every Sunday publickly examined therein in their respective Churches or Chapels; in which Places, the former are wholly exempted from ever appearing. The Methods made use of by the Popish Priests, to continue under their heavy and intolerable Yoke, the ignorant Vulgar, are call'd Pious Frauds; their Labours in converting Men of different Communions, a Pious Zeal: This Clergy have also their Frauds, but want the Zeal. They neither plant, nor water, nor pray to God for Increase of the true Faith. They are so far from suppressing Popery in its Infancy, that they even educate Youth under those mistaken Principles; by which means it takes such deep Root in the Adult, and is so cultivated and corroborated by the Neglect of the sleepy Servant, and the Diligence of the Enemy, that it becomes irradicable in unbending old Age. Another dangerous Inconvenience arising from hence, is, the frequent Opportunities which the Popish Children have of corrupting, irretrievably corrupting, the tender Principles of their Protestant School-fellows. Let no Man censure me, that I have used Words so harsh as irretrievably corrupting, which Expression may easily be allowed me, when the Indolence and Inabilities of these School-masters are considered. Are not these Men then those wicked ones, who, in effect, sow the Tares among the Wheat?

After what I have said of the temporal Masters, let me add to them the spiritual Pastors, equally negligent, and therefore equally guilty. It is most notorious that some Popish Priest or other, is sent over thither once, twice, or oftner in a Year, and there exercise their Function, in private Houses, in all its Branches. They do not indeed expose themselves to the Penalties of the Laws (if yet there beany penal Law against them in that Island) by going about to make Converts; their Conversation when amongst Protestants, is free and open on general Subjects. They confine themselves much among their own People, and leave this dirty dangerous Work to their Slaves, the bigotted Laity, by frequently inculcating into them the necessary Duty imply'd in their perverted Explanation of the two last Verses of the general Epistle of St. James, viz. Brethren, if any of you do err from the Truth, and one convert him; let him know that he which converteth the Sinner from the Error of his way, shall save a Soul from Death, and shall hide a Multitude of Sins. Hence arise those Bickerings, those Railings, those Backbitings, and Animosities, which infest this Isle, and disturb the Tranquillity of it. This great Evil, and its Cause and Original, was lately complained of (the Bishop being then in England) to the Vicar-General, by some Protestant English Gentlemen, who offered to prove that a Popish Priest then resided and officiated at Duglas; desiring, that if Confinement, and a legal Trial were deemed too severe, he might at least be dismiss'd, before the Contagion of his Doctrine should spread too far. This Complaint, and Petition, tho' often repeated, were absolutely rejected by the Vicar-General; and the Priest went on (so long as he thought sit), without Fear or Molestation. Are there Men the true Pastors? Are not these the Hirelings who flee through Fear, and leave the Sheep committed to their Care a Prey to the ravening Wolf?

Over the elder People of the Island, these Men reign with the joined Power of spiritual Pastors and Masters: their Injunctions, for they cannot properly be called Instructions, are delivered from the Pulpit in Harangues, which go by the Denomination of Sermons, in which are never heard the divine Attributes asserted, or any Article of Faith proved from Scripture; sometimes, indeed, they preach up a Moral Duty, but the chief and most frequent Subject of their Discourses, is the Power of the Priesthood, and the Discipline of the Church. These Doctrines they thunder out, as the Pope does his Bulls, with an Anathema tacked to them, and enforce them by a strong Argument called Kirk Jarmyns, on all who are disobedient or unbelieving: for proof of which, I appeal to an English Gentleman, who not long since was sentenced to that horrid Prison, I before described (under the Bishop's Chapel in Peel Castle) by a spiritual Court, for barely seeming to suppose that one of the Brotherhood was not overstocked with Learning. A Summons was served upon the Gentleman before the Sentence was registred, (nor indeed is it yet) and he had certainly been sent to Prison, and ordered to do Penance, but that he declared he appeal'd to the Metropolitan, or challeng'd his Antagonist to disprove his Assertion before the best Judges of Learning his Country could produce. Upon this, the Minister, by the Advice of his Brethren, conscious of the Weakness of his Cause, dropt the Prosecution, and has ever since sat down as contentedly under the Character of an Illiterate, as a Bully does under a Beating.

The Discipline of the Chuch being perpetually dinn'd into the Ears of the Laity, and the indispensable Obligation of submitting to it, the abject Creatures are drove to Prison like Sheep to a Fold, and from thence to publick Penance, as quietly as those Beasts are to the Slaughter: deterred, on the one hand, from Murmuring, by the Threatnings of severer Punishments; and persuaded on the other, that patient Submission to the Inflictors is the supremest Merit in the Eyes of Heaven.

How little the Methods taken by this Court to prevent Fornication have succeeded, may be known by the great Number of Offenders, which are every Sunday doing Penance for it in their Churches; and in my Opinion, draw on a more pernicious Evil than that which they design to avoid. If the least Familiarity is observed between Persons of a different Sex, they are immediately summon'd to the Communion-Table, and there obliged to swear themselves innocent, or endure the Shame and Punishment ordained for the Crime of Fornication. This they call Purging, but it is so far from being worthy of that Name, that many to avoid public Disgrace, add the Sin of Perjury to the other, and take the most solemn Oath that can be invented to a Falshood. Innumerable are the Instances I could give of this Truth; but to avoid being tedious, I shall repeat but one, that being of so dreadful a Nature, as may very well serve to convince my Reader, that too much Severity, as well as too much Lenity, is of dangerous Consequence.

A Widow at Duglas, being of a light Behaviour, was frequently suspected to be guilty of Fornication, and accordingly was summon'd, and took the Oath of Purgation, (how truly, the Sequel will prove.) As she was was one Evening going home, he was accosted by a Stranger, I think he was of Wales, and Master of a Vessel; what Discourse passed between them is unknown, nor is it of much Consequence, any farther than that they agreed to go together to her Lodging, where, having made him very drunk, the rifled his Pocket of Ten Guineas, then made a Pretence to get him down Stairs: but he no sooner came into the Air, then it deprived him of all the little Sense the Liquor had lest him; and being unable to reel any farther, he lay down at the Door, and sell into a sound Sleep. When waked, he missed his Money, he remembred the Encounter he had had with the Woman, but could not be certain if the had taken it from him, or whether he might not have been robbed as he was asleep. On relating the Story however, to his Landlady, the persuaded him to make his Complaint, and procure Leave to search the Lodgings of this Woman. The Advice was followed, and the Officers, being very diligent in their Scrutiny, sound in her Bosom one Guinea, under a heap of Ashes a second, and good Part of the Change of another. As she was extremely poor, and had nothing to subsist on, but what she got by daily Labour from House to House, 'twas easy to believe this was none of her own Money; they therefore doubted not but they should find the Remainder of what the Captain had lost, which indeed they did, and with it a much more shocking Discovery, in turning up the Bed: there lay under it a Parcel of small Bones, which seeming to be human, they sent immediately for two Doctors, the one named Jenkenson, the other. Ball, who, on joining them together, made the perfect. Anatomies of three Children; the Back-Bone of one of them, had been cleft through, as it seemed with a Hatchet. Every one was struck with the utmost. Horrour at this Sight; except the inhumane Mother and Murdress, who impudently owned they were all her own Children, which she had been delivered of in private, to avoid Punishment, but pretended in her Defence that they were still-born. She was then asked, why she did not bury them? To which she answered, that was not the Business of any body, they were her own; and being dead, the might dispose of them as the pleas'd. Perhaps, added the, I had a mind to keep them by me for the Sake of those who begot them.

She was, however, carried to Prison, under the double Indictment of Theft and Murder; and being unable to alledge any thing in her Justification, was condemned to Death, and accordingly executed. 'Twas remarkable that this Wretch, when under Sentence, being asked why the had not buried the Children, since she might have easily had an Opportunity? told the Person who made his Demand, that designing to throw them into the River, he took up the Bones in her Apron one Night, but as she was going, was met by a tall black Gentleman, who bid her go back; adding, she was safe while she kept them at home, but if she attempted to conceal them either in Earth or Water, she would certainly be discovered.

Whether this miserable Creature saw any such Apparition or not, or whether it was the Will of God that the should imagine she saw and heard what in effect was nothing, I will not pretend to determine; but it is plain that Divine Justice, who seldom suffers Murder to go unpunished, even on Earth, was very visible in compelling her to take the only means which could detect her.

But to return, tho' the Design in the first Institution of Purging was certainly good, and may deter those who consider the Danger of taking a false Oath, and calling the supreme. Name of God to witness an Untruth, from entring into any unwarrantable Engagement; yet when there is so little Care taken by the Priesthood, to inspire a just Notion of things, as I before said, it serves rather to add Sin to Sin, by suffering these poor Ignorants to enhance their future Punishment, in avoiding the present one.

Here I think it may be convenient to clear myself from any Reflections which may be cast on me as a Censurer of Church Discipline; I acknowledge (as every Member of the Church of England ought) that in the Primitive Church there was a godly Discipline; that at the Beginning of Lent, such Persons as stood convicted of notorious Sins were put to open Penance: and farther, I join with the Church, in wishing that the said Discipline may be restored again: nay, I would not be thought to confine such Penance to any particular Season of the Year, but think the Punishment should be inflicted at a convenient Distance of Time aster the Conviction of the Offender. To the Doctrines of our Holy Church, the express Law of God, I pay entire Obedience: to her Discipline, the Institution of Men, not repugnant to the former, nor corrupted by Innovations, I submit: so, on the other hand, all illegally assumed Power, all tyrannical and unjust Censures, and Sentences ecclesiastical, I shall with my utmost Endeavours oppose; not doubting but such arbitrary Judicature will in Time prove as fatal to the Church, as in the last Age a pretended High Court of Justice was to the Monarchy. But as I possibly may have occasion to speak more of this Head elsewhere, I shall leave it here for the present, and observe what Advances they make toward establishing their Hierarchy from their other Doctrine, viz. the Power of the Priesthood. And this is, indeed, their Corner-Stone, the Foundation on which the stupendous Structure is erected to such a gigantic and formidable Heighth, most exactly framed after the Model set before them their Grand Masters, the Romish Clergy. How easy is it to misguide the Stranger, or delude the Ignorant? Would the Moors fear their Emperors, or the Egyptians pay such Adoration to their Sultans, as at this day: we see they do, were they not made to believe implicitly that there is a Divinity in the Persons of those Absolute Tyrants? Nor do the Men I speak of, exercise less Domination over their People, forgetting the Words of our Saviour, that, Blessed are the meek in Spirit, they look, and move, and speak, as if they knew themselves to be of a different Specie from their Hearers, and frown them into that Awe, and Reverence, which they ought to acquire only by a Superiority of Goodness. I heard an. old Man say, that a certain Chaplain, (who shall be nameless, lest any one should think I mingle Prejudice with Truth) ought to be honoured as God upon Earth, and that as such he would always honour him. But this poor Man has lived to see his Error; for this God whom he would have worshipped, was soon after detected of a Crime for which he was obliged to quit the Island, to avoid the Punishment the Law ordains for it. If any Man think me to blame, or that I pay not a due Deference to the sacerdotal Function, I answer, that the Church of England commands me to proceed; see Article of Religion 26. — It appertaineth to the Discipline of the Church, that Enquiry be made of evil Ministers, and that they be accused by those who have Knowledge of their Offences: and finally, being found guilty, by just Judgment be deposed. The Church enjoins all those, without Limitation, who have Knowledge of Offences, to accuse the Offenders; but since this brow-beaten Laity rather conceal than disclose the Enormities of their Ministry, evil Ministers I might well call them, since, as 'tis proved, they admit the Wolf among the Sheep, I think it more particularly a Duty incumbent on me, (who am not only a Subject, but a Servant also in this Place, to his present, as I was to his late sacred Majesty) to bring these Things to the Knowledge of those, whose Intent and Inclination, I doubt not, is, to give just Judgment. And since all private Accusations, tending to obtain this Justice, have been (as is before related) rejected or suppress'd, it is now high Time to exhibit this publick one. Thus, not many Years since, when the arbitrary Proceedings of a Powerful Man, and the Oppressions which one of our Universities groan'd under, were become insupportable; Redress was loudly, tho' humbly, sued for, in a Representation of the State of that University made publick by a late eminent Lawyer; and in a most pathetic Letter from a learned and truly reverend Divine, to his Patron, possess'd of a high Station in the Administration of Justice. And tho' they did not succeed in their intended Reformation, by bringing a Royal Visitation on that University, (the Distraction of those Times then probably preventing, and the after Behaviour of that Body perhaps averting it) yet were the commendable Labours of those Gentlemen amply rewarded, by the signal Honours which each in his respective Profession received; beside that innate Happiness, which diffuses itself thro' the Soul when conscious of having done, or attempted to do a good Action. This last, whatever may be my Expectations of the former, will certainly be my Portion, and abundantly make up for whatever Malice may be conceived against me by those whose Deeds being evil, shun the Light.

But as it is no less, if not a greater Error, to omit the Praises of the good, than to lay open, and warn Men of unworthy Pastors; I must not quit this Subject without mentioning some of those many amiable Qualities, which adorn the Character of the present Bishop. Long, and uninterrupted Custom has made the Spiritual Court of such an arbitrary Authority, that should he derogate from it, he would be in great Danger of publick Opposition, as well as private Hatred, from the whole Body of inferior Clergy: he therefore may be said rather to comply with, than approve of it; being in his own Nature, what our blessed Saviour recommends, mild, humble, tender, compassionate, and forgiving. But the abundant Charities he bestows, and which we too well know, not to have reached wherever this Treatise will arrive, are better Testimonials of him than the Words of any Author. Some few, but alas! they are but few, of the Vicars and Chaplains, may also be exempted from the general Character above given.

As the Earl of Derby, tho' stiled Lord of Man, might justly enough be called King, all Causes, except in the Spiritual Court, being tryed in his Name, and all Warrants for Life and Death signed by his Hand; his utmost Endeavours have not been wanting to curb the assuming Power of the Ecclesiasticks. As for Example, when the Sumner comes to apprehend any Person for an Offence committed, or said to be committed in that Court, had the Person so seized, Courage enough to refuse going to Prison under his Conduct, he cannot be compelled, because the Soldiers of the Garrison have Orders from their Commanders never to be aiding nor assisting to any, such Commitments. Hence it follows, that the spiritual and temporal Powers are at the extremest Odds with each other; and were it not for the blind Obedience the Laity pay to their Ghostly Fathers, the former would soon be subjected.

'Tis this Ignorauce which is the Occasion of the excessive Superstition which reigns among them: I have already given some Hints of it, but not enough to show the World what a Manks Man truly is, and what Power the Prejudice of Education has over weak Minds. If Books were of any Use among them, one would swear the Count of Gabalis had been not only translated into the Manks Tongue, but that it was a fort of Rule of Faith to them, since there is no fictitious Being mentioned by him, in his Book of Absurdities, which they would not readily give credit to. I know not, Idolizers as they are of the Clergy, whether they would not be even refractory to them, were they to preach against the Existence of Fairies, or even against their being commonly seen: for tho' the Priesthood are a kind of Gods among them, yet still Tradition is a greater God than they; and as they confidently assert that the first Inhabitants of their Island were Fairies, so do they maintain that these little People have still their Residence among them: They call them the good People, and say they live in Wilds and Forests, and on Mountains, and shun great Cities because of the Wickedness acted therein; all the Houses are blessed where they visit, for they fly Vice. A Person would be thought impudently prophane, who should suffer his Family to go to Bed without having first set a Tub, or Pail full of clean Water, for these Guests to bath themselves in, which the Natives aver they constantly do, as soon as ever the Eyes of the Family are closed, wherever they vouchsafe to come. If any thing happen to be mislaid, and found again, in some Place where it was not expected, they presently tell you a Fairy took it and returned it: if you chance to get a Fall, and hurt yourself, a Fairy laid something in your Way to throw you down, as a Punishment for some Sin you have committed.

I have heard many of them protest they have been carried insensibly great Distances from home, and, without knowing how they came there, found themselves on the Top of a Mountain. One Story in particular, was told me of a Man who had been led by invisible Musicians for several Miles together; and not being able to resist the Harmony, followed till it conducted him to a large Common, where were a great Number of little People sitting round a Table, and eating and drinking in a very jovial manner: Among them were some Faces whom he thought he had formerly seen, but forbore taking any notice, or they of him, till the little People offering him Drink, one of them, whose Features seemed not unknown to him, plucked him by the Coat, and forbad him, whatever he did, to taste any thing he saw before him; for if you do, added he, you will be as I am, and return no more to your Family. The poor Man was much affrighted, but resolved to obey the Injunction: accordingly a large silver Cup filled with some fort of Liquor, being put into his Hand, he found an Opportunity to throw what it contained on the Ground. Soon after the Musick ceasing, all the Company disappeared, leaving the Cup in his Hand; and he returned home, tho' much wearied and fatigued. He went the next day, and communicated to the Minister of the Parish all that had happened, and asked his Advice how he should dispose of the Cup: to which the Parson reply'd, he could not do better than to devote it to the Service of the Church; and this very Cup, they tell me, is that which is now used for the consecrated Wine in Kirk-Merlugh.

Another Instance they gave me to prove the Reality of Fairies, was of a Fidler, who having agreed with a Person, who was a Stranger, for so much Money, to play to some Company he should bring him to, all the twelve Days of Christmas, and received Earnest for it, saw his new Master vanish into the Earth the Moment he had made the Bargain. Nothing could be more terrified than was the poor Fidler; he found he had entered himself into the Devil's Service, and looked on himself as already damned; but having recourse also to a Clergyman, he received some Hope: he ordered him however, as he had taken Earnest, to go when he should be called; but that whatever Tunes should be called for, to play none but Psalms. On the Day appointed, the same Person appeared, with whom he went, tho' with what inward Reluctance 'tis easy to guess; but punctually obeying the Minister's Directions, the Company to whom he play'd were so angry, that they all vanished at once, leaving him at the Top of a high Hill, and so bruised and hurt, tho' he was not sensible when, or from what Hand he received the Blows, that he got not home without the utmost Difficulty.

The old Story of Infants being changed in their Cradles, is here in such Credit, that Mothers are in continual Terror at the Thoughts of it. I was prevailed upon myself, to go and see a Child, who, they told me was one of these Changelings, and indeed must own was not a little surprized, as well as shocked at the Sight: nothing under Heaven could have a more beautiful Face: but tho' between Five and Six Years old, and seemingly healthy, he was so far from being able to walk, or stand, that he could not so much as move any one Joint: his Limbs were vastly long for his Age, but smaller than an Infant's of six Months; his Complexion was perfectly delicate, and he had the finest Hair in the World; he never spoke nor cryed, eat scarce any thing, and was very seldom seen to smile, but if any one called him a Fairy-Elf, he would frown, and six his Eyes so earnestly on those who said it, as if he would look them through. His Mother, or at least his supposed Mother, being very poor, frequently went out a Chairing, and lest him a whole Day together: the Neighbours, out of Curiosity, have often looked in at the Window to see how he behaved when alone, which whenever they did, they were sure to find him laughing, and in the utmost Delight. This made them judge that he was not without Company more pleasing to him than any Mortal's could be; and what made this Conjecture seem the more reasonable, was, that if he were lest ever so dirty, the Woman, at her Return, saw him with a clean Face, and his Hair combed with the utmost Exactness and Nicety.

A second Account of this Nature, I had from a Woman to whose Offspring the Fairies seemed to have taken a particular Fancy. The Fourth or Fifth Night after she was delieved of her first Child, the Family were alarm'd with a most terrible Cry of Fire; on which, every body run out of the House to see whence it proceeded, not excepting the Nurse, who being much frighted as the others, made one of the Number. The poor Woman lay trembling in her Bed, alone, unable to help herself, and her Back being turned to the Infant, saw not that it was taken away by an invisible Hand. Those who had left her, having enquired about the Neighbourhood, and finding there was no Cause for the Out-cry they had heard, laugh'd at each other for the Mistake; but as they were going to reenter the House, the poor Babe lay on the Threshold, and by its Cries preserv'd itself from being trod upon. This exceedingly amazed all that saw it, and the Mother being still in Bed, they could ascribe no Reason for finding it there, but having been remov'd by Fairies, who, by their sudden Return, had been prevented from carrying it any farther.

About a Year after, the same Woman was brought to Bed of a Second Child, which had not been born many Nights before a great Noise was heard in the House where they kept their Cattle; (for in this Island, where there is no Shelter in the Fields from the excessive Cold and Damps, they put all their Milch Kine into a Barn, which they call a Cattle-House.) Every body that was stirring, ran to see what was the matter, believing that the Cows had got loose: the Nurse was as ready as the rest, but finding all safe, and the Barn-Door close, immediately returned, but not so suddenly but that the new-born Babe was taken out of the Bed, as the former had been, and dropt on their Coming, in the Middle of the Entry. This was enough to prove the Fairies had made a second Attempt; and the Parents sending for a Minister, join'd with him in Thanksgiving to God, who had twice delivered their Children from being taken from them.

But in the Time of her Third Lying-in, every body seem'd to have forgot what had happened in the First and Second, and on a Noise in the Cattle-House ran out to know what had occasioned it. The Nurse was the only Person, excepting the Woman in the Straw, who stay'd in the House, nor was the detained thro' Care, or, Want of Curiosity, but by the Bonds of Sleep, having drank a little too plentifully the preceding Day. The Mother, who was broad awake, saw her Child listed out of the Bed, and carried out of the Chamber, tho' she could not see any Person touch it; on which, the cryed out as loud as he could, Nurse, Nurse! my Child, my Child is taken away; but the sold Woman was too fast, to be awaken'd by the Noise she made, and the Infant was irretrievably gone. When her Husband, and those who had accompany'd him, returned, they found her wringing her Hands, and uttering the most piteous Lamentations for the Loss of her Child: on which, said the Husband, looking into the Bed, the Woman is mad, do not you see the Child lies by you? On which The turned, and saw indeed something like a Child, but far different from her own, who was a very beautiful, fat, well-featured Babe; whereas, what was now in the room of it, was a poor, lean, withered, deformed Creature. It lay quite naked, but the Clothes belonging to the Child that was exchanged for it, lay wrapt up all together on the Bed.

This Creature lived with them near the Space of nine Years, in all which Time it eat nothing except a few Herbs, nor was ever seen to void any other Excrement than Water: it neither spoke, nor could stand or go, but seemed enervate in every Joint, like the Changeling I mentioned before, and in all its Actions showed itself to be of the same Nature.

A woman who lived about two Miles distant from Ballasalli, and used to serve my Family with Butter, made me once very merry with a Story she told me of her Daughter, a Girl of about ten Years old, who being sent over the Fields to the Town, for a Pennyworth of Tobacco for her Father, was on the top of a Mountain surrounded by a great Number of little Men, who would not suffer her to pass any farther. Some of them said The should go with them, and accordingly laid hold of her: but one seeming more pitiful, desired they would let her alone; which they refusing, there ensued a Quarrel, and the Person who took her Part, fought bravely in her Defence. This so incensed the others, that to be revenged on her for being the Cause, two or three of them seized her, and pulling up her Clothes, whipped her heartily; after which, it seems, they had no farther Power over her, and the run home directly, telling what had befallen her, and showing her Buttocks, on which were the Prints of several small Hands. Several of the Towns-People went with her to the Mountain, and the conducting them to the Spot, the little Antagonists were gone, but had left behind them Proofs (as the good Woman said) that what the Girl had informed them was true; for there was a great deal of Blood to be seen on the Stones. This did she aver with all the Solemnity imaginable.

Another Woman equally superstitious and fanciful as the former, told me, that being great with Child, and expecting every Moment the good Hour, as she lay awake one Night in her Bed, the saw Seven or Eight little Women come into her Chamber, one of whom had an Infant in her Arms: they were followed by a Man of the same Size with themselves, but in the Habit of a Minister. One of them went to the Pail, and finding no Water: in it, cried out to the others, What must they do to christen the Child? On which, they reply'd, it should be done in Beer. With that, the seeming Parson took the Child in his Arms, and performed the Ceremony of Baptism, dipping his Hand into a great Tub of Strong-Beer, which the Woman had brew'd the Day before to be ready for her Lying-in. She told me, that they baptized the Infant by the Name of Joan, which made her know she was pregnant of a Girl, as it proved a few Days after, when she was delivered. She added also, that it was common for the Fairies to make a Mock-Christning when any Person was near her Time, and that according to what Child, male or female, they brought, such should the Woman bring into the World.

But I cannot give over this Subject without mentioning what they say befel a young Sailor, who coming off a long Voyage, tho' it was late at Night, chose to land rather than lie another Night in the Vessel: being permitted to do so, he was set on shore at Duglas. It happened to be a fine Moon-light Night, and very dry, being a small Frost; he therefore forbore going into any House to refresh himself, but made the best of his Way to the House of a Sister he had at Kirk Merlugh. As he was going over a pretty high Mountain, he heard the Noise of Horses, the Hollow of a Huntsman, and the finest Horn in the World. He was a little surprized that any body pursued those kinds of Sports in the Night, but he had not Time for much Reflection before they all passed by him, so near, that he was able to count what Number there was of them, which he said, was Thirteen, and that they were all drest in green, and gallantly mounted. He was so well pleased with the Sight, that he would gladly have follow'd, could he have kept pace with them; he cross'd the Foot-Way, however, that he might see them again, which he did more than once, and lost not the Sound of the Horn for some Miles. At length, being arrived at his Sister's, he tells her the Story, who presently clapped her Hands for Joy, that he was come home safe; for, said she, those you saw were Fairies, and 'tis well they did not take you away with them.

There is no persuading them but that these Huntings are frequent in the Island, and that these little Gentry being too proud to ride on Manks Horses, which: they might find in the Field, make use of the English and Irish ones, which are brought over and kept by Gentlemen. They say that nothing is more common, than to find these poor Beasts, in a Morning, all over in a Sweat and Foam, and tired almost to death, when their Owners have believed they have never been out of the Stable. A Gentlemen of Ballafletcher assured me, he had Three or Four of his best Horses killed with these nocturnal Journies.

At my first coming into the Island, and hearing these sort of Stories, I imputed the giving Credit to them merely to the Simplicity of the poor Creatures who related them; but was strangely surprized when I heard other Narratives of this kind, and altogether as absurd, attested by Men who passed for Persons of sound Judgment. Among this Number, was a Gentleman my dear Neighbour, who affirmed with the most solemn Asseverations, that being of my Opinion, and entirely averse to the Belief that any such Beings were permitted to wander for the Purposes related of them, he had been at last convinced by the Appearance of several little Figures playing and leaping over some Stones in a Field, whom, a few Yards distance, he imagined were School-Boys, and intended, when he come near enough, to reprimand, for being absent from their Exercises at that Time of the Day, it being then, he said, between Three and Four of the Clock: but when he approached as near as he could guess, within Twenty Paces, they all immediately disappeared, tho' he had never taken his Eye off them from the first Moment he beheld them; nor was there any Place where they could so suddenly retreat, it being an open Field without Hedge or Bush, and, as I said before, broad Day.

Another Instance, which might serve to strengthen the Credit of the other, was told me by a Person who had the Reputation of the utmost Integrity. This Man being desirous of disposing of a Horse he had at that Time no great Occasion for, and riding him to Market for that Purpose, was accosted, in passing over the Mountains, by a little Man in a plain Dress, who asked him if he would sell his Horse. 'Tis the Design I am going on, reply'd the Person who told me the Story. On which, the other desired to know the Price. Eight Pounds, said he. No, resumed the Purchaser, I will give no more than Seven; which, if you will take, here is your Money. The Owner thinking he had bid pretty fair, agreed with him, and the Money being told out, the one dismounted, and the other got on the Back of the Horse, which he had no sooner done, than both Beast and Rider sunk into the Earth immediately, leaving the Person who had made the Bargain in the utmost Terror and Consternation. As soon as he had a little recovered himself, he went directly to the Parson of the Parish, and related what had passed, desiring he would give his Opinion whether he ought to make Use of the Money he had received, or not. To which he reply'd, that as he had made a fair Bargain, and no way circumvented, nor endeavoured to circumvent the Buyer, he saw no reason to believe, in case it was an evil Spirit, it could have any Power over him. On this Assurance, he went home well satisfied, and nothing afterward happened to give him any Disquiet concerning this Affair.

A second Account of the same nature I had from a Clergyman, and a Person of more Sanctity than the Generality of his Function in this Island. It was his Custom to pass some Hours every Evening in a Field near his House, indulging Meditation, and calling himself to an account for the Transactions of the past Day. As he was in this Place one Night, more than ordinarily wrapt in Contemplation, he wandered, without thinking where he was, a considerable Way farther than it was usual for him to do; and as he told me, ke knew not how far the deep Musing he was in, might have carried him, if it had not been suddenly interrupted by a Noise, which, at first, he took to be the distant Bellowing of a Bull; but as he listned more heedfully to it, found there was something more terrible in the Sound, than could proceed from that Creature. He confess'd to me, that he was no less affrighted than surprized, especially when the Noise coming still nearer, he imagined whatever it was, that it proceeded from, it must pass him: he had, however, Presence enough of Mind to place himself with his Back to a Hedge, where he sell on his Knees, and began to pray to God with all the Vehemence so dreadful an Occasion required. He had not been long in that Position, before he beheld something in the Form of a Bull, but infinitely larger than ever he had seen in England, much less in Man, where the Cattle are very small in general. The Eyes, he said, seemed to shoot forth Flames, and the running of it was with such a Force, that the Ground shook under it as in an Earthquake. It made directly toward a little Cottage, and there, after most horribly roaring, disappear'd. The Moon being then at the full, and shining in her utmost Splendor, all these Passages were perfectly visible to our amazed Divine, who having finished his Ejaculation, and given Thanks to God for his Preservation, went to the Cottage, the Owner of which, they told him, was that Moment dead. The good old Gentleman was loth to pass a. Censure which might be judged an uncharitable one; but the Deceased having the Character of a very ill Liver, most People. who heard the Story, were apt to imagine this terrible Apparition came to attend his last Moments.

A mighty Bustle they also make: of an Apparition, which they say, haunts Castle Russin, in the Form of a Woman, who was some Years since executed for the Murder of her Child. I have heard not only Persons, who have been confined there for Debt, but also the Soldiers of the Garrison affirm they have seen it various Times: but what I took most notice of, was the Report of a Gentleman, of whose good Understanding, as well as Veracity, I have a very great Opinion. He told me, that happening to be abroad late one Night, and catched in an excessive Storm of Wind, and Rain, he saw a Woman stand before the Castle-Gate, where being not the least Shelter, it something surprized him, that any body, much less one of that Sex, should not rather run to some little Porch, or Shed, of which there are several in Castle-Town, than chuse to stand still exposed and alone, to such a dreadful Tempest. His Curiosity exciting him to draw nearer, that he might discover who it was that seemed so little to regard the Fury of the Elements, he perceived the retreated on his Approach, and at last, he thought, went into the Castle, tho' the Gates were shut: this obliging him to think he had seen a Spirit, sent him home very much terrified; but the next Day, relating his Adventure to some People who lived in the Castle, and describing, as near as he could, the Garb and Stature of the Apparition, they told him it was that of the Woman above mentioned, who had been frequently seen, by the Soldiers on guard, to pass in and out of the Gates, as well as to walk thro' the Rooms, tho' there was no visible Means to enter.

Tho' so familiar to the Eye, no Person has yet, however, had the Courage to speak to it, and, as they say, a Spirit has no Power to reveal its Mind without being conjured to do so in a proper manner, the Reason of its being permitted to wander is unknown.

Another Story of the like Nature, I have heard concerning an Apparition, which has frequently been seen on a wild Common near Kirk Jarmyn Mountains, which, they say, assumes the Shape of a Wolf, and fills the Air with most terrible Howlings.

But having run on so far in the Account of supernatural Appearances, I cannot forget what was told me by an English Gentleman and my particular Friend. He was about passing over Duglas Bridge before it was broken down, but the Tide being high, he was obliged to take the River; having an excellent Horse under him, and one accustomed to swim. As he was in the middle of it, he heard, or imagined he heard, the finest Symphony, I will not say in the World, for nothing human ever came up to it. The Horse was no less sensible of the Harmony than himself, and kept in an immoveable Posture all the Time it lasted; which, he said, could not be less than three Quarters of an Hour, according to the most exact Calculation he could make, when he arrived at the End of his little Journey, and sound how long he had been coming.

He, who before laugh'd at all the Stories told of Fairies, now became a Convert, and believed as much as ever a Manks Man of them all.

As to Circles in the Grass, and the Impression of small Feet among the Snow, I cannot deny but I have seen them frequently, and once thought I heard a Whistle, as tho' in my Ear, when nobody that could make it was near me.

For my Part, I shall not pretend to determine if such Appearances have any Reality, or are only the Effect of the Imagination; but as I had much rather give credit to them, than be convinced by ocular Demonstration, I shall leave the Point to be discussed by those who have made it more their Study; and only say, that whatever Belief we ought to give to some Accounts of this kind, there are others, and those much more numerous, which merit only to be laughed at: it not being at all consonant to Reason, or the Idea Religion gives us of the fallen Angels, to suppose Spirits so eminent in Wisdom and Knowledge, as to be exceeded by nothing but their Creator, should visit the Earth for such trifling Purposes as to throw Bottles and Glasses about a Room, and a thousand other as ridiculous Gambols mentioned in those voluminous Treatises of Apparitions.

The Natives of this Island tell you also, that before any Person dies, the Procession of the Funeral is acted by a sort of Beings, which for that End render themselves visible. I know several that have offered to make Oath, that as they have been passing the Road, one of these Funerals has come behind them, and even laid the Bier on their Shoulders, as tho' to assist the Bearers. One Person, who assured me he had been served so, told me, that the Flesh of his Shoulder had been very much bruised, and was black for many Weeks after.

There are few or none of them who pretend not to have seen or heard these imaginary Obsequies, (for I must not omit that they sing Psalms in the same Manner as those do who accompany the Corps of a dead Friend) which so little differ from real ones, that they are not to be known 'till both Coffin and Mourners are seen to vanish at the Church-Doors. These they take to be a sort of friendly Demons, and their Business, they say, is to warn People of what is to befall them: accordingly they give notice of any Strangers Approach, by the trampling of Horses at the Gate of the House where they are to arrive. As difficult as I found it to bring myself to give any Faith to this, I have frequently been very much surprised, when on visiting a Friend, I have found the Table ready spread, and every thing in order to receive me, and been told by the Person to whom I went, that he had Knowledge of my coming or some other Guest, by these good-natured Intelligencers. Nay, when obliged to be absent some time from home, my own Servants have assured me they were informed by these Means of my Return, and expected me the very Hour I came, tho' perhaps it was some Days before I hoped it myself at my going abroad. That this is Fact, I am positively convinced by many Prooss; but how or wherefore it should be so, has frequently given me much matter of Reflection, yet left me in the same Uncertainty as before. Here, therefore, will I quit the Subject, and proceed to Things much easier to be accounted for.

Having been so copious in my Description of the Spiritual Power, it will be expected I should say something of the Temporal Jurisdiction, which is perpetually in Opposition with the other, and is arbitrary but in two things, viz. That in the Cattle-Markets no Person, be he of ever so great Condition, is permitted to cheapen or bid Money for any Beast till the Lord's Steward has had the Refusal of it: and that if any Man or Maid-Servant be esteemed extraordinary in their Way, either he the Governour, or the two Deempsters have the Power to oblige such a Servant to live with them for the Space of a Year, and receive no more than six Shillings for their Service during the said Time. This they call Yarding, and the Ceremony of it is performed in the following manner: An Officer appointed for that Purpose, called a Sumner, lays a Straw over his, or her. Shoulder, and says, By virtue of this, you are Yarded for the Service of the Lord of Man in the House of his Steward, Governour, or Deempster, which-ever of them it is that has given this Commission. But this is a Law of no force in Bishop's Lands; for which reason, all Servants who have any Apprehensions of being Yarded, hire themselves, if possibly they can, to those who rent the abovesaid Lands; or failing in that, as soon as they perceive an Officer coming near them, run to that Asylum, on which, when they have set their Feet, they are safe for that Time.

In all things else the People are treated with the utmost Lenity by the Government. The Officers and Soldiery, who receive their Commissions and Pay from the Lord of Man, are extremely courteous and civil, rather endeavouring to do all the good Offices they can, than in the least exerting any Authority. 'Tis to their Compassion alone, that the poor Criminals sentenced by the Spiritual Court to that loathsome Dungeon under the Chaple at Peel, are not really confined there, but have the Liberty of the Castle. In fine, they are not only the best-bred, and most conversible Men in the Island, but likewise, generally speaking, the least vicious, in spite of the little Regard they pay to the Ecclesiastical Jurisdiction.

As to their Law-Suits, they are neither expensive nor tedious, but that draws on a Misfortune as bad, if not worse consequence than either of the others; which is, that the Over-cheapness renders them frequent. When a Person has a mind to commence a Suit against his Neighbour for Debt, he has no more to do than to take out a Token. which is a Piece of Slate marked with the Governour's Name on it; and it is the same thing with an Arrest in England: the Price of these Tokens is no more than two Pence, and every Man being allowed to plead his own Cause, there is no Occasion for Counsellors, Attorneys, or Sollicitors. The Ignorance, however, of the People, and their Incapacity of Speaking for themselves in publick, have given an Opportunity to some Men to set up for a kind of Lawyers, who take Fees, and argue on both Sides, as in the Courts of Justice elsewhere.

Their Sheeding Courts, the same with our Terms, are held but twice a Year; but then they have a Court of Chancery, wherein the Governour is sole Judge, which, if there be Occasion, he may hold once every Week; and this gives so easy and speedy a Dispatch to all Differences, that there is little to do at their Grand Assizes.

I know nothing in their Statutes nor Punishments particular, but this; which is, that if any Person be convicted of uttering a scandalous Report, and cannot make good the Assertion instead of being fined or imprisoned, they are sentenced to stand in the Market-Place, on a sort of a Scaffold erected for that purpose, with their Tongue in a Noose made of Leather, which they call a Bridle, and having been thus exposed to the View of the People for some time, on the taking off this Machine, they are obliged to say three Times, Tongue thou hast lyed. As whimsical as this Punishment may seem, I know not but, if introduced in some Places that I could name, it might put a greater Stop to Malice than any private Punishment whatsoever; because, that tho' a Person who has once suffered this Shame, should he tempted to commit the same Crime a second Time, it would be to little purpose, because whatever he said, would be sure to gain no Credit, after having been once recorded as a Lyar.

And now having given as full a Description as I think can be expected from me of the Courts of Judicature, both Spiritual and Temporal, and the Punishments decreed for Offenders in this Island; I shall proceed to say something of the Place itself, which may be called, properly enough, a rocky mountainous Desart; little Space being lest for either Arable or Pasture, and nothing of a Wood or Forest in the whole Island. You may ride many Miles and see nothing but a Thorn-Tree, which is either fenced round, or some other Precaution taken, that so great a Rarity shall receive no Prejudice. Hedges they have none, but what are made with Clay; but as they have great Quantity of Fern and Goss, that serves them to bake their Bread with instead of Wood.

Yet, notwithstanding the present Scarcity of Timber, the Natives tell you, it was once a very woody Country; insomuch that Peel, which was originally called Pile Castle, took its Name from being at first no more than a huge Pile of Logs of Wood, laid in so regular a Manner, as to form distinct Apartments, and make it a Dwelling-Place. But this is supposed to be before the Flood, and if we may give credit to Doctor Burnet's Theory of the Earth, that the World was then one vast Continent, without any Division of the Lands by Seas or Rivers, 'tis easy to believe that universal Flow of Waters might, on leaving it, have thrown up the Earth in such Mountains, and buried the Trees beneath their monstrous Weight.

'Tis certain that they have no Timber, but what they find in Bogs or Sloughs when they dig for Turf, and there is seldom any found in less than fourteen or fifteen Foot deep. In searching for it, they sometimes meet with greater Prizes: I myself saw a very fine Silver Crucifix, and many Pieces of old Coin, not only of Copper, but also of Gold and Silver. They were got into Hands which would not be prevailed on to part with them, tho' they knew neither the Age nor Meaning of them; otherwise I would have sent some to our Learned and Ingenious Antiquaries in England, who, perhaps, might by the Inscriptions and Figures, have been able to judge more truly of the former Government, and Rulers of these People, than any of those Traditions, which with them pass for historical Truths, but according to my Notion of Things, are no better than so many Fables. But as I could not obtain the real Medals, I had the Privilege of taking a Draught of some which I looked upon as the most curious of them.

The first of these were of Gold, the next Silver, and all the others Brass. But there were many, which I believe of greater Antiquity, but so much impaired, that it was impossible for the nicest Eye to take the Impression.

Having mentioned these Curiosities, I must not omit one, which, if true, was a much greater, and afforded more matter of Speculation to the Age it was found in, than any I have named. It was a Man perfect in all his Limbs and Features, and, what is yet more wonderful, in his Habit; tho' by the Make of it, he must have lain under-ground upwards of an Hundred Years. This extraordinary Discovery, they say, happened no longer ago than in the Reign of King Charles the First: there are Persons now living, who assured me their Fathers saw it; and from hence they infer the Wholesomeness of their Climate, since the Earth of itself, only by being kept close, could preserve a human Body, unembellowed, unembalmed, from being corrupted, or even his Clothes from Rottenness or Decay. But as greatly as I have heard this Story averred, I do not set it down, either here, or in my own Mind, for undoubted Verity, but leave it to the Pleasure of my Reader to believe, as he thinks most reasonable, concerning this, as well as the many other Prodigies of Nature, which no Man can give a full Account of this Island without mentioning.

Among others, I know none which more justly may be called so, at least, of those which I am convinced of the Truth of, than that of the Water-Bull. An amphibious Creature, which takes its Name from the so great Resemblance it has of that Beast, that many of the People, having seen him in a Field, have not distinguished him from one of the more natural Species: nor have the Cows any Instinct to avoid him, tho' if any happen to copulate with him, as they frequently do, the Creature they conceive, never has Life, nor any due Formation, but seems a rude Lump of Flesh and Skin without Bones, and seldom brought forth without the Death of the Cow.

A Neighbour of mine who kept Cattle, had his Fields very much infested with this Animal, by which he had lost several Cows; he, therefore, placed a Man continually to watch, who bringing him Word that a strange Bull was among the Cows, he doubted not but it was the Water-Bull, and having called a good Number of lusty Men to his Assistance, who were all armed with great Poles, Pitch-forks, and other Weapons proper to defend themselves, and be the Death of this dangerous Enemy; they went to the Place where they were told he was, and run all together at him: but he was too nimble for their Pursuit, and after tiring them over Mountains, and Rocks, and a great Space of stony Ground, he took a River, and avoided any further Chase by diving down into it, tho' every now and then he would show his Head above Water, as if to mock their Skill. I heard of a Person, however, who being perplexed in this manner, by one of these Water-Bulls, had more Cunning, and taking a Gun with him, charged with a Brace of Bullets, shot him as he was going into the River.

As to any Buildings of great Antiquity in this Island, there are now no Remains, after Castle Russin, and Peel Castle, with the Churches about it, but the Nunnery, and the Fort at Duglas, each of which I shall describe in a particular Manner.

That which is called the Nunnery, is situate in a good pleasant Part of the Country, about half a Mile from Duglas, and tho' now entirely out of Repair, except one small Part of it, where the present Major has his Residence, shows in its. Ruins that sew Monasteries once exceeded it, either in Largeness or fine Building. There are still some of the Cloysters remaining, the Cielings of which discover they were the Workmanship of the most masterly Hands, nothing in the whole Creation but what is imitated in curious Carvings on it. The Pillars supporting the Arches are so thick, as if that Edifice was erected with a Design to baffle the Efforts of Time; nor could it, in more Years than have elapsed since, the Coming of Christ, have been so greatly defaced, had it received no Injury but from Time: but in some of the dreadful Revolutions this Island has sustained, it doubtless has suffered much from the Outrage of the Soldiers, as may be gather'd by the Niches yet standing in the Chapel (which has been one of the finest in the World) and the Images of the Saints reposited in them being torn out, which could not have happened but by Force.

Here has also been many curious Monuments, the Inscriptions of which, tho' almost worn out, yet still retain enough to make the Reader know the Bodies of very great Persons have been reposited here. There is plainly to berea on one of them,

Illustrissima Matilda filia—————

And a little lower, on the same Stone,

———Rex Merciæ—————

I think there is great Probability that this was Matilda, the Daughter of Ethelbert, one of the Kings of England, of the Saxon Race, since both Stow and Hollingshed, agree that Princess died a Recluse: but as there is no Certainty, the Date being entirely erased, I shall leave it to my Reader to think of it according to his Pleasure.

But I am entirely of Opinion that Cartesmunda the fair Nun of Winchester, who sled from the Violence threatned her by King John, took Refuge in this Monastery, and was here buried; because there is very plainly to be read,

Cartesmunda Virgo immaculata.

These Words remain so legible, that I doubt not but the whole Inscription would have been so too, had not some barbarous and sacrilegious Hands broke the Stone, leaving only one Corner of it, which is supported by a Column, and on the Base the Date is yet perfectly fresh.

Anno Domini 1230.

Several fine Figures, which seem designed by way of Hieroglyphic, have also been both the Ornaments and Explanation of these Tombs; but now so demolished, that one can only know by the Fragments they have been too excellent not to have merited a better Fate.

In the midst of a small square Court behind this Chapel is a sort of a Pyramid of reddish Stones cemented with Clay, on which formerly stood a Cross; and near it have been many fine Monuments, tho' not so magnificent as those within the Chapel. From this Place you may go down by a gradual Descent to a Cell, built all of white Stone, where stood the Confessional Chair; but this also lies now in Ruins: as does a great Gate, which, they say, was once exceeding fine, and was never opened but at the Initiation of a Nun, or the Death of the Lady Abbess. Some Pieces of broken Columns are still to be seen up and down the Ground, but the greatest Part have been removed for other Uses. There are a vast Number of Caverns under ground, some of which were built for Places of Penance, others for Convenience. In some there are narrow stone Benches, which, by the excessive Dampness, are overgrown with Moss, but all are dark, and the very Entrance to them choaked up with Weeds and Briars; so little Veneration do the present Inhabitants of this Island pay to Antiquity, or the Memory of what was so precious to their Forefathers, who were formerly so very religious, that when they went abroad, they put on a Winding-Sheet, to show they were not unmindful of Death.

Tho' the Rivers in this Island afford great Plenty of excellent Water, a Well belonging to this Nunnery is said to have exceeded them all; but has been, notwithstanding the many extraordinary Properties ascribed to it, of late suffer'd to dry up.

Here have also been many spacious Gardens for the Convenience and Pleasure of the Nuns, but I have heard a melancholly Account of the severe Tryal put on those who were suspected to have been guilty of falsifying their Vow of Charity.

Over a Place called the How of Duglas, which is the Extent of the Earl of Derby's Dominion on the Sea, there is a Rock vastly high and steep, about the Middle of which is a Hollow not very different from the Fashion of an Elbow-Chair, and near the Top, another much like the former. Whether these are made by Art or Nature, I cannot pretend to determine, nor did I ever hear: but on the slightest Accusation, the poor Nun was brought to the Foot of this Rock, when the Sea was out, and obliged to climb to the first Chair, where she sat till the Tide had twice ebbed and flowed. Those who had given a greater Cause for Suspicion, went up to the second Chair, and sat the same space of Time. Those who endured this Trial, and descended unhurt, were cleared of the Aspersion thrown upon them. But in my Opinion, the Number of the Fortunate could not be great, for besides the Danger of climbing the ragged and steep Rock, (which now very few Men can do above thirty or forty Paces) the extreme Cold when you come to any Height, the Horror of being exposed alone to all the Fury of the Elements, and the horrid Prospect of the Sea, roaring thro' a thousand Cavities, and foaming round you on every side, is enough to stagger the firmest Resolution and Courage, and without all question been the Destruction of many of those unhappy Wretches.

The Fort of Duglas, which commands the Bay, is a very ancient Building, but kept in good Repair. They say that the great Caratack, Brother to Bonduca Queen of Britain, concealed here his young Nephew from the Fury of the Romans, who were in Pursuit of him, after having vanquished the Queen, and slain all her other Children. There is certainly a very strong and secret Apartment underground in it, having no Passage to it but a Hole, which is covered with a large Stone; and is called to this Day, The Great Man's Chamber.

The ancient Inhabitants of this Island seem to have taken a great Delight in subterranean Dwellings, for there is no one old Building in it, which has not at least an equal Number of Rooms under ground as above, and sometimes as much, if not more, richly ornamented with Carvings, and the Floors covered with Stone of different Colours, which makes them appear as if inlaid, and are very beautiful to the Eye. This therefore one may be bold to say without injuring the Truth, that however unpolite and savage those who now call themselves the Natives of Man may be, it had in it, in some Ages of the World, Persons of the most delicate and elegant Taste, and who in all their Customs savoured of a Disposition rather inclined to the Romantick than the Rustick, as they are at this Time degenerated, even to the greatest degree that can be imagined.

My Reader will easily perceive how little I derogate from the Genteelness of their Manners, when I shall tell him that Knives, Forks, or Spoons, are Things in so little Use with them, that at those Houses which are counted the best, (excepting the Governour's, the Bishop's, and the Lord Steward's) you shall not find above three or four Knives at a Table, where, perhaps, there are twenty Guests, and as for Forks, they seem not to know what to do with them; for if a Manks Man, or Woman, happens to be invited to an English Family, nothing can be more aukward than their attempting to make Use of them. They are admirably dextrous in dissecting a Fowl with their Fingers, and if the Operation happens to be more than ordinarily difficult, they take one Quarter in their Teeth, and with both their Hands wrench the Limbs asunder. This, I have seen done among very wealthy People, and who would not deny themselves these Conveniences, if they thought them of any Consequence. Nay, so incorrigible are they in this Humour, that tho', whenever invited by the English or Irish, they find these Utensils at every Plate, they will not return the Complaisanceat their own Entertainments. This Behaviour, at my first coming, put me in mind of Æsop's Stork, who invited the Fox to Dinner on Viands in long-necked Bottles; for I found good Provision, but no means to come at it. But on my growing better acquainted with the Custom of the People, I carried for the future a Knife, Fork, and Spoon in my Pocket.

In their Sports they retain something of the Arcadian Simplicity. Dancing, if I may call it so, jumping and turning round at least, to the Fiddle and Base Viol, is their great Diversion. In Summer, they have it in the Fields, and in Winter, in the Barns. The Month of May, is every Year ushered in with a Ceremony which has something in the Design of it pretty enough, and, I believe, will not be tiresome to my Reader in the Account.

In almost all the great Parishes they chuse from among the Daughters of the most wealthy Farmers a young Maid, for the Queen of May. She is drest in the gayest and best manner they can, and is attended by about twenty others, who are called Maids of Honour: The has also a young Man, who is her Captain, and has under his Command a good Number of inferiour Officers. In Opposition to her, is the Queen of Winter, who is a Man drest in Woman's Clothes, with woollen Hoods, Furr Tippets, and loaded with the warmest and heaviest Habits one upon another: in the same manner are those who represent her Attendants drest, nor is she without a Captain and Troop for her Defence. Both being equipt as proper Emblems of the Beauty of the Spring, and the Deformity of the Winter, they set forth from their respective Quarters; the one preceeded by Violins and Flutes, the other with the rough Musick of the Tongs and Cleavers. Both Companies march till they meet on a Common, and then their Trains engage in a Mock-Battle. If the Queen of Winter's Forces get the better, so far as to take the Queen of May Prisoner, she is ransomed for as much as pays the Expences of the Day. After this Ceremony, Winter and her Company retire, and divert themselves in a Barn, and the others remain on the Green, where having danced a considerable Time, they conclude the Evening with a Feast: the Queen at one Table with her Maids, the Captain with his Troop at another. There are seldom less than fifty or sixty Persons at each Board, but, as I said before, not more than three or four Knives.

I must not here omit that the first Course at a Manks Feast is always Broth, which is served up, not in a Soop-Dish, but in wooden Piggins, every Man his Mess. This they do not eat with Spoons, but with Shells, which they call Sligs, very like our Mussel Shells, but much larger.

CHRISTMAS is ushered in with a Form much less meaning, and infinitely more fatiguing. On the 24th of December, towards Evening, all the Servants in general have a Holiday, they go not to Bed all Night, but ramble about till the Bells ring in all the Churches, which is at twelve a-Clock; Prayers being over, they go to hunt the Wren, and after having found one of these poor Birds, they kill her, and lay her on a Bier with the utmost Solemnity, bringing her to the Parish-Church, and burying her with a whimsical kind of Solemnity, singing Dirges over her in the Manks Language, which they call her Knell; after which Christmas begins. There is not a Barn unoccupied the whole twelve Days, every Parish hiring Fidlers at the publick Charge; and all the Youth, nay, sometimes People well advanced in Years making no scruple to be among these nocturnal Dancers. At this Time there never fails of some Work being made for Kirk Farmyns; so many young Fellows and Girls meeting in these Divertions, Nature too often prompts them to more close Celebrations of the Festival, than those the Barn allows; and many a Hedge has been Witness of Endearments, which Fear of Punishment has afterwards made both forswear at the Holy Altar in Purgation. On Twelfth-Day the Fidler lays his Head in some one of the Wenches Laps, and a third Person asks, who such a Maid, or such a Maid shall marry, naming the Girls then present one after another; to which he answers according to his own Whim, or agreeable to the Intimacies he has taken notice of during this Time of Merriment. But whatever he says is as absolutely depended on as an Oracle; and if he happens to couple two People, who have an Aversion to each other, Tears and Vexation succeed the Mirth. This, they call, Cutting off the Fidler's Head; for, after this, he is dead for the whole Year.

This Custom still continues in every Parish, and if any young Lad, or Lass, was denyed the Privilege of doing whatever came into their Heads, they would look on themselves as infinitely injured. This Time is indeed their Carnival, and they take, and are allowed more Liberties, than, methinks, is consonant with: their Strictness in other Cases.

The Young Men here are great Shooters with Bows and Arrows. There are frequently Shooting Matches, Parish against Parish, and Wagers laid, which Side shall have the better.

As for public Shows, there are none, of any kind, exhibited in this Island, so that the only Diversion of the Better Sort of People, is Drinking, which, indeed, they have an excellent Opportunity to indulge; the best Wines, and Rum, and Brandy, being excessively cheap, by reason, as I before observed, of their paying no Custom for it, and a Man may drink himself dead without much Expence to his Family.

They have no Fairs worth mentioning, except two, which are kept at Kirk Patrick, the one at Midsummer, and the other just after Michaelmas. To these the good Housewives bring Thread and Worsted of their own spinning to be wove, and here also you may buy any sort of Linen or Woollen Cloth the Country produces, but none else. They sell no Trinkets at these Fairs, as at the English ones, nor much Eatables, besides Butter and Fowls, which Commodities are brought in Creels, a sort of Baskets made of Straw, which they hang over their Horses Necks, in the manner of Panniers, and will contain a great Quantity.

As to their Horses, they are generally fleet, but small, and very hardy; they wear no Shoes, eat no Corn, nor ever go into a Stable: but when they come off a Journey, tho' the Weather be ever so bad, are only turned loose to graze before their Doors, or in an adjoining Field.

Nor are their Owners of much less hardy Constitutions; the greatest part of them, of both Sexes, go barefoot, except on Sundays, or when they are at Work in the Field, and have then only small Pieces of Cows, or Horses Hide, at the bottom of their Feet, tyed on with Packthread, which they call Carrans. Their Food is commonly Herrings, and Potatoes, or Bread made of Potatoes; for, notwithstanding the great Plenty of Salmon, Cod, Eels, Rabbits, and Wild-Fowl of all forts, the ordinary People either can not, or will not afford themselves any thing else. They are, however, exceeding strong: I have seen a little Woman tuck up her Petticoats, and carry a very lusty Man on her Back thro' the River, and this they frequently do for a Piece of Money, the Water being too deep for any but the Natives to pass on Foot.

Angling and Shooting would be agreeable Diversions for Gentlemen here, were not the Air so extremely cold and aguish. 'Tis certain that there is not a Place in the known World, which affords finer Fish; I have seen Eels of six Foot long, and Salmon of between four and five Foot, and wonderfully sweet and luscious: nor is their Wild-Fowl inferiour to any, especially the Woodcocks and Teal. They have also a kind, which I never heard of any where else; it is called a Puffen, and is of a grey Colour, with a white Breast, somewhat bigger than a tame Pigeon, and is good Food to be eat fresh, only is too fat, and has something of a fishy Taste; but is excellent when potted or pickled, and will last good for a whole Year. These Birds are taken in a Place, called the Calf of Man, where they breed in great quantities in the Holes of the Rocks. They both fly, and swim and dive in the Water like Ducks. The best Time for taking them, is in the latter End of July, and the Beginning of August.

Rabbits are in such Plenty, especially in the Months of August and September, that they may be bought for a Penny a-piece, returning the Skins, which are the Perquisite of the Earl of Derby, and given to his Steward, who: sends them to England and Ireland by Persons who come over every Year, on purpose to import them.

But as the Herring-Fishery is the most talked on abroad of any thing appertaining to this Island, I believe my Reader will be surprized that I have so long been silent on that Head: To comply therefore with his Expectation, and discharge, as well as in me lies, the Duty of an Historian, I shall give as perfect an Account of it as possible.

Tho' Herrings are taken all round this Island, yet the main Body of the Fisher-Boats goes out from Port Iron, where the Fishermen are attended by a Clergyman, who joins with them in a solemn Form of Prayer, on the Sea-side, to Almighty God, that he will be pleased to savour their Undertaking, and bless their Nets with Plenty. 'Tis the Opinion of many learned Men, that there is no created Being on Earth, of which there is not a Similitude in the Sea, and the Creatures which I have sometimes seen brought up with the Herrings, seem to confirm the Truth of this Conjecture. Nothing is more common, than for their Nets to be broke with the Weight of a Fish, which they call a Sea-Calf; and, indeed, in the Head, and all the upper Parts, differs nothing from those we see in the Field. But what does them the most damage, is the Dog-Fish, which, by reason of its Largeness, tears the Nets, in such a manner, that they lose the Herrings thro' the Holes, and bring up no other Prize than that, of which, nothing but the Skin is of any Value. This was so great a Grievance, that, formerly they put up publick Prayers in all the Churches, that the Dog-Fish might be taken from them; after which, they lost their whole Trade, for the Dog-Fish was taken from them, but with it the Herrings also, neither of them coming near their Seas all that Season: on which they changed their Tone, and prayed with more Vehemence for the Return of the Dog-Fish, than they did before for its Departure. God was pleased, they say, to listen to their Complaint, and on their next going out, sent them both Herrings and Dog-Fish, tho' not in such abundance as before. Whether this is Fact, or not, I will not pretend to Yay; it, however, affords a good Moral, that we ought not to expect only Blessings from the Hand of Heaven: some Evil must be mingled with the Good, to the end we may be more dependant on Divine Providence; we should else be too apt to forget our Duty, and perhaps, look on the Comforts we receive as our Due, and the just Reward of our Actions.

As at my first coming to the Island, I was extremely sollicitous in diving into the Manners and Humour of a People, which seemed so altogether new, and different from all the other Europeans I had ever seen; I went to Port Iron, the first Season for Fishery, after my Arrival: where, falling into discourse with some of the Inhabitants, I had an Account given me, which, I think, would be doing something of Injustice to the Publick to conceal.

I believe there are few People, who have not heard of Mermaids and Mermen, tho' I never met with any, who looked on them as any thing more than the chimerical Tritons and Amphitrites of the Poets, till accidentally falling in Company with an old Manks Man, who had used the Sea many Years, he told me he had frequently seen them, and endeavoured to make me believe his Assertion true, by a thousand Oaths and Imprecations. I happening to mention this at Port Iron, they seemed to wonder at my Incredulity, and gave me the following Narration.

In the Time, said they, that Oliver Cromwell usurped the Protectorship of England, sew or no Ships resorted to this Island, and that Uninterruption and Solitude of the Sea, gave the Mermen and Mermaids (who are Enemies to any Company but those of their own Species) frequent Opportunities of visiting the Shore, where, in moonlight Nights, they have. been seen to sit, combing their Heads, and playing with each other; but as soon as they perceived any body coming near them, jumped into the Water, and were out of sight immediately. Some People, who lived near the Coast, having observed their Behaviour, spread large Nets, made of small, but very strong Cords, upon the Ground, and watched at a convenient distance for their Approach. The Night they had laid this Snare, but one happened to come, who was no sooner set down, than those who held the Strings of the Net, drew them with a sudden Jirk, and enclosed their Prize beyond all Possibility of escaping.

On opening the Net, and examining their Captive, by the largeness of her Breasts, and the Beauty of her Complexion, it was found to be a Female; nothing, continued my Author, could be more lovely, more exactly formed, in all Parts above the Waist, resembing a compleat young Woman, but below that, all Fish, with Fins, and a huge spreading Tail. She was carried to a House, and used very tenderly, nothing but Liberty being denied. But tho' they set before her the best Provision the Place afforded, she would not be prevailed on to eat, or drink, neither could they get a Word from her, tho' they knew these Creatures were not without the Gist of Speech, having heard them talk to each other, when sitting regaling themselves on the Sea-side. They kept her in this manner three Days, but perceiving she began to look very ill with fasting, and searing some Calamity would befall the Island if they should keep her till she died, they agreed to let her return to the Element he liked best, and the third Night set open their Door; which, as soon as she beheld, she raised herself from the Place where she was then lying, and glided with incredible Swiftness, on her Tail, to the Sea-side. They followed at a distance, and saw her plunge into the Water, where she was met by a great number of her own Species, one of whom asked what she had observed among the People of the Earth; nothing very wonderful, answer'd she, but that they are so very ignorant, as to throw away the Water they have boiled Eggs in, This Question, and her Reply, they told me, was distinctly heard by those who stood on the Shore to watch what passed.

As I had not yet attained a thorough Knowledge of the Superstition of these People, nor the passionate Fondness for every thing that might be termed, The Wonderful; I was excessively surprized at this Account, given with so serious an Air, and so much, and solemnly averted for Truth. I perceived they were not a little disgusted at my Want of Faith, but to make a Convert of me, they obliged me to listen to another, as odd an Adventure as the former, which they assured me was attested by a whole Ship's Crew, and happened in the Memory of some then living.

There was about some forty or fifty Years since a Project set on foot, for searching for Treasures in the Sea; accordingly Vessels were got ready, and Machines made of Glass, and cased with a thick tough Leather, to let the Person down, who was to dive for the (in my Opinion, dearly purchased) Wealth. One of these Ships happening to sail near the Isle of Man, and having heard that great Persons had formerly taken Refuge there, imagined there could not be a more likely Part of the Ocean to afford the Gain they were then in search of, than this. They, therefore, let down the Machine, and in it, the Person who had undertaken to go on this Expedition; they let it down by a vast Length of Rope, but he still plucking it, which was the Sign for those above to encrease the Quantity, they continued to do so, till they knew he must be descended an infinite Number of Fathoms. In fine, he gave the Signal so long, that, at last, they found themselves out of Cord, their whole Stock being too little for his capacious Inquisition. A very skillful Mathematician being on board, said, that he knew by the Proportion of the Line which was let down, he must have descended from the Surface of the Waters more than twice the Number of Leagues that the Moon is computed to be distant from the Earth. But having, as I said, no more Cord, they were obliged to turn the Wheel, which, by degrees, brought him up again; at their opening the Machine, and taking him out, he. appeared very much troubled, that his Journey had so soon been at a Period, telling them, that could he have gone a little farther, he should have brought Discoveries well worth the Search. It is not to be supposed but every body was impatient to be informed of what kind they were; and being all gathered about him on the main Deck, as soon as he had recruited himself with a hearty Swill of Brandy, he began to relate in this manner.

After, said he, I had passed the Region of Fishes, I descended into a pure Element, clear as the Air in the serenest and most unclouded Day, thro' which, as I passed, I saw the Bottom of the watry World, paved with Coral, and a shining kind of Pebbles, which glittered like the Sun-Beams reflected on a Glass. I long'd to tread the delightful Paths, and never felt more exquisite Delight, than when the Machine, I was enclosed in, grazed upon it. On looking thro' the Little Windows of my Prison, I saw large Streets and Squares on every side, ornamented with huge Pyramids of Crystal, not inferiour in Brightness to the finest Diamonds; and the most beautiful Building, not of Stone, nor Brick, but of Mother of Pearl, and embossed in various Figures, with Shells of all Colours. The Passage which led to one of these magnificent Apartments being open, I endeavoured, with my whole Strength, to move my Enclosure towards it, which I did, tho' with great Difficulty, and very slowly. At last, however, I got Entrance into a very spacious Room, in the midst of which, stood a large Amber Table, with several Chairs round of the same. The Floor of it was composed of rough Diamonds, Topaz's, Emeralds, Rubies, and Pearls. Here I doubted not but to make my Voyage as profitable as it was pleasant, for could I have brought with me but a few of these, they would have been of more Value than all we could hope for in a thousand Wrecks; but they were so closely wedg'd in, and so strongly cemented by Time, that they were not to be unfastenned. I saw several Chains, Carcanets, and Rings, of all manner of precious Stones, finely cut, and set after our manner; which, I suppose, had been the Prize of the Winds and Waves: these were hanging loosely on the Jasper Walls, by Strings made of Rushes, which I might easily have taken down, but as I had edged myself within half a Foot reach of them, I was unfortunately drawn back, thro' your Want of Line. In my Return, I saw several comely Mermen, and beautiful Mermaids, the Inhabitants of this blissful Realm, swiftly descending towards it; but they seemed frighted at my Appearance, and glided at a Distance from me, taking me, no doubt, for some monstrous and new-created Species.

Here, said my Authors, he ended his Account, but grew so melancholy, and so much enamour'd of those Regions he had visited, that he quite lost all Relish for earthly Pleasures, till continual Pinings deprived him of his Life; having no Hope of ever descending there again, all Design of Prosecuting the Diving Project being soon after laid aside.

With the same Confidence the Truth of these Narratives were asserted, did I hear a Sailor protest, that it was a common thing, when they were out at Sea, and too far from Shoar for the Voice of any thing on Land to reach their Ears, for them to hear the Bleating of Sheep, the Barking of Dogs, the Howling of Wolves, and the distinct Cries of every Beast the Land affords.

As nothing is got, by contradicting a fictitious Report, unless you can disprove it by more convincing Arguments than right Reason can suggest, but ill Words, and, perhaps, worse Usage; I contented myself with laughing at them, within myself, and attempted not to lay before People, whom I found such Enemies to good Sense, any Considerations, how improbable, if not impossible, it was, that any body should give Credit to what they said.

I should, however, have doubtless heard many other Accounts of the like Nature, if, by my saying little in Answer to them, and a certain Air of Ridicule, which they observed in my Countenance, and which, in spite of my Endeavours to the contrary, I was not able to refrain, they had not perceived that it was vain to attempt bringing me over to their Side.

And now having given as full an Account, as I am able, of the Wonders they relate of the subterranean and subterraqueous World, let me proceed to what is to be found by those who venture not such rash Expedients in the search of Curiosities. And first of their Mountains.

They have many of a very great height, but there are three much superiour to the others; the first is called Snafles, from the Top of which, you may see England, Scotland, and Ireland; the next, Barool; and the third, Carrahan. Under these, they tell you, lie the Bodies of three Kings, from whose Names, the Mountains take their Denominations, as they had their Rise from their Burials: for having in those Days no Notion of Architecture, or erecting Monuments, the only Way of perpetuating the Memory of the Dead, was to throw a huge Pile of Earth over them: Every body, in passing, for a great number of Ages, thinking themselves obliged to contribute towards the pious Work, and throwing on a little, according to the Strength, or Time, they were Masters of, has raised them to the stupendous Height they are now arrived, especially that of Snafles, under which, we may suppose, either the greatest, most ancient, or most beloved Monarch lies. These rude Mausoleums seem, methinks, to shame the Pride of the modern Architecture, being likely to continue, when those built of Marble, with all their vain Infinity of Expence and Art, will be crumbled into Dust, and driven into the Air, the Sport of every wanton Wind.

The Bridges of any Consequence in this Island, are nine in number, and called,

Castle-Town Bridge.

This is built of Stone, kept in good Repair, is of a handsome Breadth, and so high, that a Boat with a Mast, may sail under it.

Ballasalli Bridge.

This is the oldest Bridge in the Island, and built also of Stone.

Kirk Braddon Bridge.

This is a strait Stone Bridge; a fine River runs under it, called the Dark River. Here is great Plenty of Fish, especially Eels.

Duglas Bridge.

This is lately broken down by the Rapidity of the River. A Woman, who was going over it, with a Bottle of Brandy in her Hand, just when the Accident happened, was saved by the Stiffness of her Hoop Petticoat, which kept her above Water.

Nunnery Bridge.

This Bridge has a Stone Foundation, but is boarded over, and rail'd in, by reason of the Turbulence of the River, which sometimes threatens to overflow it. Here they bring their Leather to soak.

Laxey Bridge.

This is the most beautiful of any in the Island, has handsome: Seats to sit on, and is built over a fine River, which runs between two great Hills.

Peel Bridge.

Under this, is the most famous River in the Island; it comes from Kirk Farmyn Mountains, and runs into the Sea, by the great Rock, on which stands Peel Castle.

The Millaroats his Mill Bridge.

This is a small Bridge, but built of Stone, and much frequented.

Kirk Maroan Bridge.

A fine River, coming from Kirk Maroan Mountains, runs under this Bridge to Kirk Santon.

There are, besides these, several small Bridges, but not the twentieth Part sufficient for the Convenience of the Inhabitants; yet, notwithstanding a Proposal was made for building as many as were wanted, on every Housekeeper's paying the Sum of one Penny per Year for nine Years, it was not complied with.

Having spoken of the Manks Frugality, or rather Sordidness, in their way of Eating, I must not omit making an Exception to this Rule, at three several Times, which are their Weddings, their Christenings, and their Funerals.

As to the first, twenty Pounds is a good Portion for a Mountaineer's Daughter, and they are so exact in the Marriage-Bargin, that I have known many, who have called themselves hot Lovers, break off for the sake of a Sow or a Pig being refused in the Articles. Yet, notwithstanding this, a Stranger cannot be invited to one of these nuptial Feasts, without believing himself in a Land of the utmost Plenty, and Hospitality. The Match is no sooner concluded, than besides the Banns of Matrimony being publickly asked in the Church three Sundays, notice is given to all the Friends and Relations on both sides, tho' they live ever so far distant. Not one of these, unless detained by Sickness, fail coming, and bring something towards the Feast; the nearest of Kin, if they are able, commonly contribute most, so that they have vast Quantities of Fowls of all sorts. I have seen a dozen of Capons in one Platter, and six or eight fat Geese in another; Sheep and Hogs roasted whole, and Oxen divided but into Quarters.

They have Bride-Men, and Bride-Maids, who lead the young Couple, as in England, only with this difference, that the former have Ozier Wands in their Hands, as an Emblem of Superiority: they are preceeded by Musick, who play all the while before them the Tune, The Black and the Grey, and no other is ever used at Weddings. When they arrive at the Church-Yard, they walk three times round the Church, before they enter it. The Ceremony being performed, they return home, and sit down to the Feast; after which they dance in the Manks Fashion, and between that and Drinking pass the Remainder of the Day.

Their Christenings are not less expensive, the whole Country round are invited to them, and after having baptized the Child, which they always do in the Church, let them live ever so distant from it, they return to the House, and Spend the whole Day, and good Part of the Night in Feasting.

When a Person dies, several of his Acquaintance come to sit up with him, which they call the Wake. The Clerk of the Parish is obliged to sing a Psalm, in which, all the Company join; and after that, they begin some Pastime to divert themselves, having Strong Beer and Tobacco allowed them in great Plenty. This is a Custom borrowed from the Irish, as are indeed many others, much in fashion with them.

As to their Funerals, they give no Invitation, but every body, that had any Acquaintance with the Deceased, comes either on Foot or Horseback. I have seen sometimes at a Manks Burial, upwards of an hundred Horsemen, and twice the Number on soot: all these are entertained at long Tables, spread with all sorts of cold Provision, and Rum and Brandy flies about at a lavish Rate. The Procession of carrying the Corps to the Grave, is in this manner: When they come within a Quarter of a Mile of the Church, they are met by the Parson, who walks before them singing a Psalm, all the Company joining with him. In every Church-Yard there is a Cross, round which, they go three Times, before they enter the Church. But these are the Funerals of the Better Sort, for the Poor are carried only on a Bier, with an old Blanket round them, fastened together with a Skewer.

Having mentioned that there is no Church-Yard without a Cross, I cannot forbear taking notice, that there is none which serves not also for a Common to the Parson's Cattle; all his Horses, his Cows, and Sheep, grazing there perpetually so strangely is Religion and Rusticity mingled together in this Island!

Here, in justice to these poor People, I must acquaint my Reader, that however strange their Tradition may seem of the Island being once inhabited by Giants, my own Eyes were Witness of something which does not a little keep it in countenance. As they were digging a new Vault in Kirk-Braddon Church-Yard, there was sound the Leg-Bone of a Man very near four Foot in Length from the Ancle to the Knee: nothing but ocular Demonstration could have convinced me of the Truth of it, but the Natives seemed little to regard it, having, as they said, frequently dug up Bones of the same Size.

They told me, that but a few Months before my Arrival, there was found, under Kirk-Carbra Church-Yard, a human Head of that monstrous Circumference, that a Bushel would hardly cover it; and that nothing was more common, when they were digging, than to throw up Ribs and Hands conformable to the Leg I had seen.

As it is a received Opinion, that the Antediluvians infinitely exceeded the Stature of Morals since the Flood, I can reconcile these Prodigies no otherwise to Reason, than by judging them to be the Remains of those who lived in the first Ages of the World; and that by a Virtue, peculiar to this Earth, have been preserved thus long unperished; as they seem to make evident in the Example before recited, of the Man whose very Flesh and Clothes remain'd uncorrupted for the space of more than an hundred Years.

As no Stranger coming to this Island can avoid being very much surprized at the little Care they take to repair those ancient and fine Buildings I have described, so must he also think them very careless both of Interest and Reputation, in not erecting any new ones, which might be of present Service to themselves, and future Glory to their Posterity.

Besides the new Town I have mentioned, built by Macguire of the Kingdom of Ireland, there has no Edifice been erected, since, about thirty Years ago, a small College in Castle-Town. for the Education of young Gentlemen design'd for the Pulpit. But how much it deserves the Name they give it of a College, may be gathered from what I have said concerning the Learning of their Clergy in general.

Their Markets are kept on Saturdays, but there is little Butcher's Meat to be bought by the single Joint; most of the Housekeepers, who do not bring up Cattle themselves, join three, or four, or more of them together, according as their Families are in largeness, and buy a Carcass; but as I before observed, they are Persons of Consideration who eat any at all, the Natives in general, both Rich and Poor, and all the Irish who inhabit in the Island, living almost wholly on Herrings and Potatoes; the former of which, are pickled up in the Season, and last the whole Year.

This Island, therefore may be said to fit all Conditions, and all Dispositions, the Poor and the Parsimonious may live as cheap, and as miserable as they wish; and People, who have full Pockets and elegant Tastes, need want nothing to indulge the Luxury of the most Epicurean Appetite.

Nor does the Eye wants its Entertainment too; tho' there are no Plays nor magnificent Sights to dazle it, here is every Charm that Nature can bestow, Rocks, Vales, Mountains, Rivers, Gardens, scatter'd promiscuously in the most beautiful, tho' wild, Variety imaginable. The Groves indeed, in which Lovers are said so much to delight themselves, they cannot boast of, having, as I said before, no Trees; but then there are a thousand agreeable Shades from the Mountains, and every where, except in Towns, the most charming Solitude imaginable.

They have also one very great Happiness here, which is, the not being infested with Robbers: here are neither Highwaymen, nor Housebreakers, and a Man may leave his Doors unbarr'd, or travel the Island round without the least Danger of losing his Money or his Life.

Silence, Solitude, and Security, being the Friends of Contemplation, I fancy, if some of our great Poets would take a Trip hither sometimes, they would find their Account in it, and confess the Improvements their Genius's would receive in passing a few Months in a Place so retired, and, at the same time, so romantick, would very well compensate for a short Absence from those noisy Pleasures, which rather serve to distract than any' way to inform the Mind.

Nor will any one deny there can be a Place more proper for a Hermit, because here are no Temptations to allure him from his Cell, but he may pass his Nights and Days entirely uninterrupted; and as there are still many of those pious Men in the World, it must be thro' Ignorance of this Island, that none of them made choice of it at present: I say at present, because I have been shewn a hole on the side of a Rock near Kirk-Maroan Mountains, which, they say, was formerly the Habitation of one who had retired from the Converse of Mankind, and devoted himself intirely to Prayer and Meditation.

What seems to prove this Conjecture is not without foundation, is, that there is still to be seen a Hollow, cut out on the side of the Rock with a round Stone at one End in the shape of a Pillow, which renders it highly probable to have been the hard Lodging of one of those holy Persons who have foregone all the Gaieties and Pleasures of Life, and chose to mortify the Body for the sake of the Soul.

Every thing, indeed, conspires to prove that Religion was once in very great Splendor in this Island, but there are now little Remains of it, except in that blind Obedience paid to the Clergy, of which I have already fully treated, and the implicit Faith they give to every thing delivered from a Man in Sacred Orders.

Among the many Impositions put upon their Credulity, perhaps the following Narrative may be an Instance.

In a wild and barren Field between Ballifletcher and Lahnclegere, there was formerly a large Stone Cross, but in the many Changes and Revolutions which have happened in this Island, has been broke down, and Part of it is lost; but there still remains the Cross Part. This has several times been attempted to be removed by Persons who pretended a Claim to whatever was on that Ground, and wanted this piece of Stone; but all their Endeavours have been unsuccessful, nor could the strongest Team of Horses be able to remove it, tho' Irons were clapt about it for that Purpose. One Day, says Tradition, a great number of People being gathered about it, contriving new Methods for the taking it away, a very venerable old Man appeared among the Crowd, and seeing a Boy of about six or seven years of Age, he bad him put his Hand to the Stone, which the Child doing, it immediately turned under his Touch, and under it was found a Sheet of Paper, on which were written these Words, Fear God, obey the Priesthood, and do by your Neighbour as you would have bim do to you. Every body present was in the utmost surprize, especially, when looking for the Old Man, in order to ask him some Questions concerning the miraculous Removal of the Stone, he was not to be found, tho' it was not a Minute that they had taken their Eyes off him, and there was neither House nor Hut in a great distance, where he could possibly have conceal'd himself. The Paper was, however, carefully preserved, and carried to the Vicar, who wrote Copies of it, and dispersed them over the Island. They tell you, that they are of such wonderful Virtue to whoever wears them, that on whatever Business they go, they are certain of Success. They also defend from Witchcraft, evil Tongues and all Efforts of the Devil or his Agents, and that a Woman wearing one of them in her Bosom, while she is pregnant, shall by no Accident whatever, lose the Fruit of her Womb. I have frequently rode by the Stone, under which, they say the original Paper was found, but it would now be looked on as the worst Sacrilege to make any Attempt to move it from the Place.

Not far from this, is the Fairies Saddle, a Stone termed so, as I suppose, from the Similitude it has of a Saddle. It seems to lie loose on the Edge of a small Rock, and the wise Natives of Man tell you, is every Night made use on by the Fairies, but what kind of Horses they are, on whose Backs this is put, I could never find any of them who pretended to resolve me.

In a Creek, between two high Rocks, which overlook the Sea on this side of the Island, they tell you also, that Mermen and Mermaids have been frequently seen. Many surprizing Stories of these amphibious Creatures have I been told here, as well as at Port Iron; but the strangest of all, is this.

A very beautiful Mermaid, say they, became so much enamour'd of a Young Man who used to tend his Sheep on these Rocks, that she would frequently come and sit down by him, bring him Pieces of Coral, fine Pearls, and what were yet greater Curiosities, and of infinitely more Value, had they fallen into the hands of a Person who knew their worth, Shells of various Forms and Figures, and so glorious in their Colour, and Shine, that they even dazzled the Eye that looked upon them. Her Presents were accompanied with Smiles, Pattings of the Cheek, and all the Marks of a most sincere and tender Passion; but one day throwing her Arms more than ordinarily eager about him, he began to be frighted, that she had a Design to draw him into the Sea, and struggled till he disengaged himself, and then ran a good many Paces from her; which Behaviour she resented so highly, it seems, that she took up a Stone, and after throwing it at him, glided into her more proper Element, and was never seen on Land again. But the poor Youth, tho' but slightly hit with the Stone, felt from that Moment so excessive a Pain in his Bowels, that the Cry was never out of his Mouth for seven Days, at the End of which he died.

Nor is there any Necessity for one who is less in love with Solitude, to pass his Time wholly in it. Rude and savage as I have described the Customs and Manners of this People to be, there are yet some Exceptions to that general Rule; insomuch that a Person always brought up in high Life, may find Companions polite and well qualified enough for his Conversation even among the Natives; but then as the chief Towns are seldom without some Gentry, either English, Irish, or Scots, tho' the greater number are of the two later, 'tis easy to believe agreeable Conversation is not impossible to be found.

A very great Enemy to having any good Fellowship with one another, is the Belief the Natives are possess'd of, and endeavour to inspire into every body else,· that there is not a Creek or Cranny in this Island, but what is haunted, either with Fairies or Ghosts. A Person is thought very fool-hardy, who, if any Business carries him to the North Side ventures to stay out after the Close of Day. They say such a Temerity has been fatal to many; and to prove it, tell you a long Story of a Man, who quarrelling with his Neighbour, they went out together toward the Sea-Side to decide the Matter with their Swords. In the Combat, the one happened to run the other into the Belly, with which Wound he fell, and the Conqueror was about to return home; when his Wife coming to the Place and hearing what had befallen, ran to the poor Man and to prevent his living long enough to relate with whom he had fought, tore open the Wound her Husband had made, and plucked out his Bowels. This Murder, they say, was never discovered till the Author of it, the Woman, confessed it in the Agonies of Death: but the troubled Spirit of the unrevenged continues to hover about the Place till this Day. When any Passenger comes near his Walk, he comes out, Who is there? And if the Person so called to, makes any Answer, he is sure not to out-live three Days.

Another Story on the opposite side of the Island passes not less current than this. The disturbed Spirit of a Person shipwreck'd on a Rock adjacent to this Coast, wanders about it still, and sometimes make so terrible a Yelling, that it is heard at an incredible Distance. They tell you that the Houses even shake with it, and, that not only Mankind, but all the brute Creation within Hearing tremble at the Sound. But what serves very much to encrease the Shock, is, that whenever it makes this extraordinary Noise, it is a sure Prediction of an approaching Storm; nor does it ever happen, say they, but some Ship or other splits, and its Crew are thrown up by the Waves. At other Times the Spirit cries out only, Hoa! Hoa! Hoa! with a Voice little, if any thing, louder than a human one.

I have heard say that a young amorous Couple, whose Parents being but lately come to live on this side the Island, had not been told of this Spirit, made an Appointment to meet each other on the Sands very near the Place it haunted; and as they were in each other's Arms, in the midst of their Endearments, were interrupted by this Voice, calling out Hoa! Hoa! Hoa! They made no doubt but it was somebody belonging to one of their Families, who had watch'd and discovered them in this Assignation; and at a loss what to do, the Girl ran to the House of an Acquaintance, not daring to go. home, and the Man as much alarmed, hid himself among the Rocks. In the Morning both being miss'd, Search was made for them, and the young Woman in her Fright having told the whole Matter to her Friend, it was by her related to the Parents, who, as soon as they had found the Man, obliged him to marry her.

About a League and a half from Barool, there is a Hole in the Earth, just at the foot of a Mountain, which they call the Devil's Den. They tell you, that, in the Days of Enchantment, Persons were there confined by the Magicians; and that it now contains a very great Prince, who never knew Death, but has for the space of six hundred Years been bound by Magic Spells; but in what Manner he lies, or in what Form, none had ever Courage enough to explore. They add, that if you carry a Horse, a Dog, or any other Animal to the Mouth of this Hole, its Hair will stand an end, its Eyes stare, and a damp Sweat cover its whole Body. Strange Noises they also pretend have been heard to issue from this Place: and I knew a Man once, who positively averr'd that his great Grandfather saw a huge Dragon, with a Tail and Wings that darkned all the Element, and the Eyes that seemed two Globes of Fire, descend swiftly into it, and after that, heard most terrible Shrieks and Groans from within.

What gave rise to this Story, I imagine was, that the Cavern being pretty deep, and perhaps divided into several Partitions, the Winds having found Entrance into the Cavities, occasion that Fumbling, and sometimes whistling Sounds, which the Superstition of the Natives interpret for Groans, Shrieks, and whatever else their own wild Ideas happen to suggest.

A little beyond this Den, is a small Lake, in the midst of which, is a huge Stone, on which, formerly stood a Cross: round this Lake the Fairies are said to celebrate the Obsequies of any good Person; and I have heard many People, and those of a considerable Share of Understanding too, protest, that in passing that way they have been saluted with the Sound of such Musick, as could proceed from no earthly Instruments.

So strongly are they possess'd of the Belief that there are Fairies, and so frequently do they imagine to have seen and heard them, that they are not in the least terrified at them, but on the contrary, rejoice whenever visited by them, as supposing them Friends to Mankind, and that they never come without bringing good Fortune along with them.

But it is not so with those Beings which bear the Names of Ghosts: As many of them as are imagined to haunt the Wilds of this Island, their Frequency does not at all abate the Dread such Apparitions ordinarily occasion in Persons least accustomed to such Sights; of which I cannot omit relating one particular and very pleasant Instance.

A gentleman of England, to avoid the Prosecution of some merciless Creditors, took refuge in this Island, till his Affairs could be made up, which not being affected so soon as he had expected, and the little Stock of Money he brought with him expended; he became a Bankrupt also in this Place, and for a few Pounds was liable to the same Misfortune here, as he ran from England to escape. Being threatned by his Creditors, and not doubting but he should soon be arrested and carried to the Castle; he went privately from the House where he lodged, and hid himself in the most uninhabited Part of the Mountains, hoping from thence he should see some Scotch or Irish Vessel come in, which he intended to go on board, and entreat a Passage with them at their Return; looking on nothing so bad as the Loss of Liberty, especially in a Country where he found Persons were little inclinable to Compassion: so that, not doubting but he should starve in Jail, if ever he were put in, he chose rather to suffer the same Fate on the Mountains; and, in truth, he was very near it, for he had lain there, exposed to all the. Severities of that inclement Clime, three Days, without eating any thing, but a Piece of brown Bread, and two small Herrings, which he put in his Pockets at his Departure. But now, when he thought himself entirely abandon'd by Providence, and at the Point of Death, he received an unexpected Assistance in the following manner.

Some young Men, whose parsimonious Parents would suffer no Provision beyond Herrings and Potatoes to be drest in their Houses, had made a bargain to feast in spite of the old Folks. Accordingly one purloyned a fat Goose, another, a Loaf of Bread, a third, sour Bottles of Home-brewed Ale, a fourth, brought a Quart of Rum, and a large Slice of Cheese. A little Valley, between two high Mountains, was the Place they made choice on for their Rendezvous, and Regale, where, having provided a good Quantity of Turf, they cut the Goose into Quarters, and began to broil it. The Smell reaching our unhappy Pilgrim, who lay on the other side of the Mountain, he felt Longings, perhaps, more poignant than are sometimes those of pregnant Women; and being overcome, at once, with Curiosity to know whence it proceeded, and a vehement Desire of being Partaker of this good Cheer, he clambered up the steep Ascent as well as he was able, on all sour, for he was too weak to stand upon his Legs. Being come to the Top, some loose Pebbles and Pieces of Flint, which happened to lie there, rolled down, which, with the Noise they made, it being rocky on the other side, so much alarmed the young Men, that they presently thought some of the Demons, or Ghosts, which are said to inhabit those barren Places, were come to take them away, or punish them in some manner for the Thefts they had been guilty of, and every one of them immediately betaking himself to his Heels, made what Speed he could into the next Town, which the supposed Spirit from the Top of the Mountain perceiving, was not a little rejoyced at, and gathering Strength from his new Hope, was not long getting down. He found the Goose was very near enough broiled, and taking what he saw most fit to eat; having refreshed himself with it, and after a good hearty Swig out of one of the Bottles of Ale, gathered all the Remainder carefully up, and putting it between the Bread which he broke in two Pieces, put it in his Pockets, and in the Lappets of his Coat, as he did also the Drink and Rum; and made what haste he could to return to the Place of his Concealment, lest those who had lest this Provision should come back in search of it; but he need not have been in any Apprehension, the Terror they were in would not have suffer'd them to have thought on what they had lest behind, tho' it had been an equal Quantity of Gold.

Being thus recruited, he was enabled to sustain Life for several Days, in which Time he spied an Irish Ship coming into: the Harbour, to whom repairing, he was kindly entertained, and went with them to Ireland; whence, after having continued some time, he embarked for England, having compounded his Debts; and makes his Friends frequently merry with a Repetition of this Adventure in the Isle of Man.

Formerly their current Money was Leather, which every Man of Substance was entitled to make: not exceeding a certain Quantity limited by a Law then in Force: this had no other Impression than the Maker's Name, and Date of the Year. But the Manks Money now current, are Pence and Halfpence, of a base mixed Metal, the Impression and Inscription are the same on both, viz. on one side, three Legs, commonly called the three Legs of Man; the Inscription on that side, is, Quocunque gesseris stabit, which the Natives foolishly apply to the Posture of the Feet, being opposite to each Word, but the true Meaning to me seems to be, Carry it where you will, it won't go, or pass. On the other side the Impression is a Cap of Maintenance, with an Eagle and Child, the Earl of Derby's Crest; the Motto, Sans changer; which Motto the Manks Men would transfer from the original Meaning, which was to express the unshaken Loyalty of the House of Stanley, to imply their own Stedfastness: but if it is to be taken in the latter Sense, I should rather think, it only implies the intrinsick Worthlessness of their Coin, for which there is no Change to be got.

Silver and Gold are Metals they had little acquaintance with, till the Troubles of England, in the Reign of Charles the First; at which Times, several Persons taking Shelter in this Island, bringing over great Quantities, made it more familiar to them. But to this Day the Natives trade little in either of them.

There was, however, one Person who discovered so great a regard for the purer Metals, that he buried a great number of Spanish Pieces of Eight, and Moidores, in a Hole in the Earth near the Castle; which, about some forty Years since were found by Workmen who were digging to enlarge the Earl of Derby's Wine Vaults, but not knowing what to make of them, by reason they had lost their Colour, carried them to the Overseer of the Works, who, I hear, was not quite so ignorant of their Worth.

At the same time, they tell you was also found, about sixteen Yards deep from the Surface, a pair of Shoes made of Brass, but of such a monstrous Length and Bigness, that they would infinitely have overfitted the Feet of the Giants set up in Guild-Hall in London: and this, among other things, serves to prove the vast Stature of the Antediluvians, for they will have it that this Island was inhabited before the Flood, as I have already remarked.

But because when I set myself down to write the History and Description of this Island, I resolved to give a much fuller one than has yet been published, I must not omit any Particular, tho' never so insignificant in itself, which bears any weight with them. I shall therefore present my Reader with two or three Instances more of their Credulity, to the end he may be as perfectly acquainted with a Native of the Isle of Man, as if he had lived among them as long as I have done.

In the Days of Enchantment, say they, a certain great Magician had by his Art raised for himself the most magnificent Palace that ever Eye beheld; but none who, either out of Curiosity, or a Desire of being entertain'd there, went to it, but was immediately converted into Stone, or at least had the Appearance of it: so implacable an Enemy was the wicked Master of it to all his own Species, being served only by infernal Spirits. He became at length so much the Terror of the whole Island, that no Person would venture to live, or pass within several Leagues of his Habitation, so that all that side of the Country was in a manner desolate, to the great Loss and Detriment of the Place in general. This had continued for the Space of three Years, when an Accident, or rather the peculiar. Direction of Divine Providence was pleased in mercy to deliver them from the Terrors of so cruel a Neighbour.

A poor Man whom one may justly term a Pilgrim, having nothing to subsist on but what he procured by imploring the Charity of those able to afford him. Succour, happening to travel on that side the Island, not knowing any thing of the Fame of this Enchanter, and perceiving no House inhabited, nor any Cottage even where he might get a lodging, and it growing dark, he was in terrible Apprehensions of being necessitated to take up his lodging on those bleak Mountains I have already described; yet wandering on as long as Light permitted, in hopes of better Fortune, he, at last, came within sight of this Palace, which filled his Heart with much Joy. Coming near it, he beheld large Piazza's, which surrounded that magnificent Building, and believing these might serve him for a Resting-place, without being troublesome to any of the Servants, whose churlish Disposition in other Places did not always afford a ready Welcome to Strangers, he chose rather to content himself with resting his wearied Limbs on the marble Floor, than entreat a Reception into any of the Barns, which perhaps might be denied. In a word, he sat down on a Bench in one of those Piazza's, and finding himself hungry, took out of his Pouch a Piece of Meat and Bread, which he had begg'd at the last Town he had pass'd thro'; he had also a little Salt, which, by dipping his Meat in the dark, he happened to spill fore on the Floor, on which he presently heard the most terrible Groans to issue from the Earth beneath, vast Winds seemed to be let loose from every Quarter of the Element, all the Face of Heaven was deformed with Lightnings, the most dreadful Thunder rattled over his Head, and in less than a Moment this fine Palace with all its proud and lofty Piazza's, Portico's, and Brazen Doors, vanished into the Air, and he sound himself in the midst of a wide, desart, mountainous Plain, without the least Appearance of any thing he had formerly seen. Surprised as he was, he instantly betook himself to his Prayers, nor removed from his Knees till Day began to break; when, after thanking God for bringing him safe thro' the Dangers of the Night past, he made what speed he could to the next Village, and relating the Adventure just as it was to the Inhabitants, they could not at first give credit to what he said, but going in great Numbers towards the Place where the Palace of the Necromancer had stood, they were convinced, and all join'd in Prayers and Thanksgiving for so great a Deliverance.

It was presently concluded from what the Pilgrim said, that the Salt spilt on the Ground had occasioned this Dissolution of the Palace, and for that reason, Salt has ever since been in such Estimation among them, that no Person will go out on any material Affair without taking some in their Pockets, much less remove from one House to another, marry, put out a Child, or take one to nurse, without Salt being mutually interchanged; nay, tho' a poor Creature be almost famished in the Streets, he will not accept any Food you will give him, unless you join Salt to the rest of your Benevolence. This is so universal a thing among them, that a Person cannot be three Days in this Island without being a Witness of the Truth of it, and on asking the meaning of such a Veneration for Salt, will be told this Story as I have related it, which, should any one seem to doubt the Truth of, he would incur the Censure of the Inhabitants, as a very prophane Person, and a Man who believed neither God nor Devil.

A person at his first coming to this Island, would be strangely amazed at the little Complaisance they pay to the weaker Sex: the Men riding always to Market on Horseback with their Creels on each side their Horses full of Fowls, Butter, Eggs, or whatever they bring thither to dispose of, and the Women following them on Foot over Rocks, Mountains, Bogs, Sloughs, and thro' very deep Rivers, and all this without either Shoes or Stockings, carrying these superfluous Coverings, as they term them, under their Arms, till they come near the Market-town; then they sit down all together on the side of a Hill, and put them on for Fashion sake, and let down their Petticoats also, which before were tucked up higher than their Knees, for the Convenience of wading thro' the Rivers, and to preserve them from the Mire of the Bogs. and Sloughs.

But the reason for obliging the Females to this Hardship, is a very whimsical one, and such a one, as I believe, cannot but afford some Diversion to my curious Reader; I shall, therefore, insert it in the manner it was told me by an old Native to whom it had been handed down from many Generations as an undoubted Verity.

He told me, that a famous Enchantress sojourning in this Island, but in what Year, he was ignorant, had, by her diabolical Arts, made herself appear so lovely in the Eyes of Men, that the ensnared the Hearts of as many as beheld her. The Passion they had for her, so took up all their Hearts, that they entirely neglected their usual Occupations; they neither plowed, nor sowed; neither built Houses, nor repaired them; their Gardens were all overgrown with Weeds, and their once fertile Fields were covered with Stones; their Cattle died for want of Pasture, their Turf lay in the Bowels of the Earth undug for; and every thing had the Appearance of an utter Desolation: even Propagation ceased, for no Man could have the least Inclination for any Woman but this universal Charmer, who smiled on them, permitted them to follow and admire her, and gave every one leave to hope himself would be at last the happy He.

When he had thus allured the male Part of the Island, the pretended one day to go a Progress thro' the Provinces, and being attended by all her Adorers on foot, while she rode on a milk-white Palfrey, in a kind of Triumph at the head of them: The led them into a deep River, which by her Art she made seem passable; and when they were all come a good way in it, she caused a sudden Wind to rise, which driving the Waters in such abundance to one Place, swallowed up the poor Lovers to the number of Six Hundred in their tumultuous Waves. After which, the Sorceress was seen by some Persons, who stood on the Shore, to convert herself into a Bat, and fly through the Air till she was out of sight; as did her Palfrey into a Sea-Hog or Porpoise, and instantly plunged itself to the Bottom of the Stream.

To prevent any such like Accident for the future, these wise People have ordained their Women to go on soot, and follow wheresoever their Lords the Men shall lead; and this Custom is so religiously observed, as indeed all their Traditions are, that if by chance a Woman is. before, whoever sees her, cries out immediately, Tehi-Tegi! Tebi-Tegi! which, it seems, was the Name of that Enchantress which occasioned this Law among them.

But in my Opinion, there is little occasion at this Day for putting it in practice; for how much soever the Natives of Man might formerly devote themselves to the Will and Pleasure of their Mistresses, they now use them with so little Ceremony, that I wonder how these poor Creatures can ever taste any Felicity in Love; or indeed, can be brought to endure the Marriage-Yoke, where there is so little to compensate for the Servilities it reduces them to, in a Climate so uncourteous to their Sex.

They tell you also, that their Island: was once much larger than it is at present; but that a Magician, who had great Power over it, and committed many wonderful and horrible things, being opposed by one who was a Friend to the Place, and, at length, overcome by him; he, in revenge, raised a furious Wind, not only in the Air, but also in the Bosom of the Earth, which rending it, tore off several Pieces; which floating in the Sea, in Process of time were converted into Stone, and became those Rocks, which are now so dangerous to Shipping. The smaller Fragments, they say, are Sands, which waving up and down, are at some times to be seen, and at others, shift themselves far off the Coast. They maintain that it was on one of these, that the late King William had like to have perished, and strengthen this Suggestion by the Trial of the Pilot, who must infallibly have been hang'd, if on strict Eamination of all the Charts, there had been in any of them the least mention made of any such Sands; but however that be, these floating Ruins have ever since remained, and from thence are called King William's Sands.

And now, I believe, my Reader will be almost as much tired with reading this Description, as I am with writing it; and having nothing more to say, that I can flatter myself will be either instructive or entertaining to him, shall take my leave, wishing no Gentleman, who has ever known the polite Pleasures of Lise, may deserve so ill of Heaven, as to be driven into this Banishment through Necessity; tho' I think it will not be loss of Time to those who travel in search of the Wonders of Noture, to take a Trip to it, since I believe there is no Place whatever in the known World, abounds with more than the Isle of Man.

 

FINIS.