The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 11
Refreshments obtained in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Means used to stock the country with useful animals and vegetables. Friendly visits of the natives; their migratory habits. Both ships sail from New Zealand to the S. and E. Sickness on board the Adventure; healthy state of the Resolution's crew. Several islands discovered. Arrival at Otaheite. Dangers incurred in approaching the southern peninsula. Trade with the natives. Visit to King Waheatua. Removal to Matavai. Friendly trade and intercourse with King Otoo and his people. Passage to Huahine. Large supplies obtained through the warm friendship of King Oree. Thefts committed by the natives. Omai taken on board the Adventure. Visit to Ulietea. Kindness of Oreo and his people. A false alarm among them. Plentiful supply of refreshments. Oedidee taken on board the Resolution.
After the arrival of the Resolution at Ship Cove, Capt. Cook, knowing where scurvy-grass, celery, and other wholesome vegetables, were to be found, and ever anxious for the health of his crew, set out early the very next morning to procure a supply; and having returned at breakfast time with a boat load, gave directions for boiling fresh vegetables, along with wheat, pease, and portable broth, for the crews of both ships, at their different meals. The vessels being both in good order, and the people healthy, our navigator prepared to set out on further researches, and gave Capt. Furneaux instructions to get ready for sea. In the mean time, both Captains, with a laudable view to increase the comforts of the natives, as well as to provide supplies for future voyagers, endeavoured to stock the country with useful animals and vegetables. Several gardens had already been planted by Capt. Furneaux, in which potatoes, turnips, carrots, and parsneps, were now thriving, particularly on Motuara and Capt. Cook planted another garden on Long Island. The uses of these vegetables were pointed out to some of the natives, who seemed pleased with the prospect of these new supplies of food. Capt. Cook set on shore a pair of goats, and Capt. Furneaux a boar and two breeding sows; leaving them in retired spots, without informing the natives, that they might breed and multiply in the woods undisturbed. A ram and a ewe, the only survivors out of the live stock bought at the Cape, were also put on shore from the Resolution; but both were soon after found dead, having probably eaten some poisonous plants.
The Adventure's people had reported, that some New Zealanders had offered their children for sale; but Capt. Cook discovered, that the children had been brought, only with a view to their receiving presents. One day a man brought his son on board the Resolution, and presented him to the Captain; who was made to understand, that he wanted to have a white shirt. The request being granted, the boy went all over the ship, shewing his new dress. This freedom offended Old Will, the ram goat, then on board, who giving him a butt with his horns, knocked him backward on the deck. would have repeated the blow, had not some people come to the boy's assistance. The shirt being dirtied by this adventure, the boy was sadly afraid to face his father in the cabin, till introduced by Mr. Forster; when he preferred a heavy complaint against Gourey, the great dog, as he called the goat; and could not be pacified, till the shirt was washed and dried for him. The dog being the principal beast in New Zealand, the natives applied the term to every quadruped on board; just as, for a similar reason, the Tahitians, even at this day, designate all quadrupeds imported by Europeans as hogs, distinguishing each by an appropriate epithet; the goat being the horned hog; the sheep, the inoffensive hog; the horse, the man-carrying-hog, &c.
During his stay here, Capt. Cook was visited by several different families, or small tribes, in succession. On the 4th of June, while some of one family were on board, another more numerous came to the place; and when one of their double canoes approached, the natives on board were greatly alarmed, and wanted the British to fire on them, as they were their enemies. But the Captain, on the contrary, invited the strangers on board; and their chief, after performing the usual ceremonies, came into the ship with some of his people; when peace was immediately established on all sides. About an hundred of this new tribe, with six canoes, being at Motuara, the Captain, with Mr. Forster and others, went in a boat to visit them, and met with a very friendly reception. Some presents were given them, and their attention was directed to the gardens planted on the island. The party soon returned on board, where they spent the remainder of the 4th, being His Majesty's birthday, in festivity. Capt. Furneaux and his officers were entertained on board the Resolution, and the crews of both ships had a double allowance, that they might participate in the general joy.
It is remarkable, that while almost every family and tribe that visited the ship inquired for Tupia, and shewed that they knew the value of the articles distributed by the Endeavour, the Captain did not recognize among them a single individual of those whom he had seen in his first voyage. Hence he justly inferred, that the different independent families, or small tribes, in this part of New Zealand, lead a migratory life, moving about from one part of the coast to another; being able to carry their whole property with them in their canoes, and finding themselves at home wherever they could meet with supplies. In this way, the knowledge of the Endeavour, of Tupia, and of European articles, would circulate the more rapidly and widely through the country.
Captain Cook had intended, on quitting New Zealand, to return to Van Diemen's Land, in order to determine whether it was connected with New Holland or not; but as his brother navigator, who had seen both, and whose accuracy he was not disposed to question, was confi:lent that they were united, he now changed his plan; resolving to explore the southern hemisphere to the eastward, between 41 and 46° S. latitude, as far as the 140th or 135th degree of W. longitude; and then, if no other country was discovered, proceed to Otaheite. This plan, with the subsequent part of his intended researches, he communicated to Capt. Furneaux, with directions where to join him, in case of separation.
Most mariners would have deemed it imprudent, to attempt exploring the southern hemisphere in so high a latitude, in the month of June, the midst of the Antarctic winter; but our navigator wished to prosecute his researches without loss of time, and was even desirous of shewing, that those seas might be navigated in the very depth of winter.
On monday, June 7th, both vessels set sail from Ship Cove, and next morning they got quite through Cook's Straits; after which, they steered in a S.E. direction, and passed the meridian of 180° on friday, the 11th, thus getting into W. longitude. In proceeding eastward in their intended track, they found the weather variable, sometimes moderate, at other times rough; and when, on saturday, July 27th, they reached 133° 32' W. longitude, 39° 44' S. latitude, without meeting land, or any signs of it, they directed their course to the northward; Capt. Cook thus choosing a track, which, as far as he knew, no former navigator had taken. On thursday, the 29th, the ships having got into a warmer climate, he sent to inquire after the Adventure's crew, as he had heard that they were sickly; and he found that the cook had died, and twenty of the best men were ill of scurvy and flux. At this time, there were but three on the sick list in the Resolution, only one of whom was afflicted with scurvy; a difference easily accounted for, as the Resolution's people had partaken much more freely of the beer and vegetables at New Zealand, then those on board the "Adventure. He sent one of his seamen to be cook of the Adventure, and instructed Capt. Furneaux to employ various means for arresting the disorder. Most of these means had already been adopted; and the health of the crew, in a few days after, began to improve.
On the 11th of August, a small island was discovered, and named Resolution Island; another, observed on the same day, was called Doubtful Island; a third, seen next day, was termed Furneaux Island; and a fourth, which was styled Adventure Island, appeared on the 13th: all belonging to the cluster which Bougainville discovered, and which he properly named the Dangerous Archipelago. In the evening of the 13th, Chain Island was seen, discovered in Cook's first voyage; in the morning of the 15th, Maitea, the Osnaburgh Island of Wallis, appeared; and towards evening, Otaheite was descried, to the westward.
Our navigators had for some time been eagerly longing to reach Otaheite; but it sometimes happens, that the most serious dangers await us, where nothing but pleasure was anticipated. Otaheite, so ardently desired by Capt. Cook and his shipmates, nearly proved their ruin. He had determined to anchor first in Oaitipiha Bay, in the southern peninsula, to get such supplies as the place afforded, before proceeding to Matavai: but when the ships were approaching the bay, on monday morning, August 16th, the wind failed, and in spite of the efforts made by the boats to tow the ships off, they were in the utmost danger of striking on the coral reef. At length, when they were opposite an opening in the reef, the flood tide carried them towards it with great impetuosity; a warping machine was presently carried out from the Resolution, but without effect; and as a last resource, though they had found no bottom, an anchor was dropped, which eventually took hold, but not till the ship was in less than three fathoms water, where she struck at every fall of the sea, and was exposed to a dreadful surf. Happily the Adventure brought up near the reef, without striking. The situation of our mariners was now fearfully critical. Had the sea breeze set in as usual, the Resolution must inevitably have been lost, and probably the Adventure also. But, through a gracious providence, the calm continued, which gave an opportunity for getting the Resolution afloat, by means of two kedge anchors; and the tide at length turning, while a land breeze arose, both ships were extricated from their perilous situation, with the loss of three anchors and a cable belonging to the Adventure.
During this season of alarm, many natives came on board from their canoes, with cocoa-nuts and other fruits, which they sold for nails, beads, &c.; but they did not seem to be aware that the ships were in danger. Most of them recognized Capt. Cook; many inquired for Mr. Banks and other gentlemen; but not one inquired for Tupia, or for the person who went with Bougainville from this district of Otaheite. As soon as the ships were safely anchored in the bay, both were crowded with natives. Some who called themselves chiefs, received presents of shirts, axes, &c., and promised to bring hogs and fowls in return; a promise which they failed to perform. For some days, no hogs were brought to the market: it was alleged, that all the hogs belonged to Waheatua, the King of the southern peninsula. On wednesday evening, some people inquired after Tupia; and when informed that his death was caused by sickness, they were satisfied. From them the Captain learned, that the two kingdoms of Otaheite had been at war, about five months before his arrival; that Tootaha, Toubourai Tamaide, and others of his friends, had fallen in battle; that peace had since been restored; and that Otoo, for whom Tootaha was regent, was now reigning himself in the larger peninsula.
Having been daily annoyed with petty thefts committed by the natives, Capt. Cook found it expedient, on wednesday, to turn them all out of the ship; and to frighten the offenders by firing two muskets over them, and afterwards a great gun. He also seized two of their canoes; in one of which was a little boy, who was terribly alarmed; but the Captain soothed him by giving him a few beads, after which he was set on shore. Peace was re-established in a few hours, and the canoes were returned. On friday evening, when a fellow ran off with a musket belonging to the guard on shore, the other natives who were present, dreading the consequences, pursued the thief, knocked him down, and brought it back. On saturday, a chief presented, along with some fruit, a quantity of empty cocoa-nuts, which had been thrown overboard after the milk was extracted, and which he had artfully tied up in bundles, as fresh nuts. He did not seem at all disconcerted at the detection of the cheat; but pretended to be surprised when they were opened and found empty.
On monday, the 23rd, Captains Cook and Furneaux, with Mr. Forster and others, paid a visit to the King, who had come hither to see them. They found him seated on a stool, within a circle of his people. Our navigator immediately recognized him, as a youth whom he had seen in 1769. He was then called Tearee; but had now assumed the name of his deceased father, Waheatua. He also knew the Captain at first sight, and placed him on the same stool with himself, while the rest of the company sat on the ground. He inquired after several gentlemen by name, whom he had formerly seen with Capt. Cook: and when the Captain told him, that the ships were to sail next day, he begged that their stay might be prolonged, promising to furnish a good supply of hogs. Three were received from him, in return for an axe, a shirt, and other presents; and several more were bought at the trading place. The crews of both ships had been much refreshed by supplies of fruit and vegetables; and now they enjoyed a comfortable meal of fresh pork. Arrangements having been made for sailing next day, Waheatua's invitation to remain some days longer was declined; the ships sailed out of the bay on tuesday, and arrived at Matavai on wednesday evening.
Before the ships came to an anchor, they were crowded with natives; many of whom Capt. Cook recognized, while almost all of them knew him. A crowd also assembled on shore, in the midst of which was King Otoo; but he soon ran off in a fright to Oparre. Next day, the two Captains, with some of the scientific gentlemen, and a chief named Maritata, went to Oparre, to pay him a visit. They found him seated on the ground, under the shade of a tree, with an immense crowd around him. He was a tall youth, about thirty years old, of a very timid disposition. When invited to visit the ships, he expressed his fears of the guns; and when on a future day, a broad sword was presented to him, and buckled to his side, he could not feel at ease, till it was removed, and conveyed out of sight. At this first interview, Capt. Cook gave him some valuable presents. He inquired for Tupia, and the gentlemen who formerly accompanied our navigator, mentioning each by name. All his people, not excepting his father Whappai, had their head and shoulders uncovered in his presence.
On the same day, observatories were set up on Point Venus, and tents for the sick; twenty afflicted with scurvy were landed from the Adventure, and one only from the Resolution. A marine belonging to the latter, who had long been diseased, but not with scurvy, died in Oaitipiha Bay.
On the 27th, Otoo visited the Captain, with a numerous train, bringing a hog, with fruit, fish, and cloth, as a present. He went on board, with his sister, brother, and some attendants; and Capt. Cook, after giving presents to each, took them home to Oparre in his boat. Upon his landing there, the Captain was met by a venerable old lady, the mother of Tootaha; who seized him by both hands, and bursting into tears, cried out, Tootaha tayo no Tootee matte Tootaha—"Tootaha the friend of Cook—Tootaha is dead!" The Captain was much affected, and was ready to mingle his tears with hers, when Otoo took him away from her. With difficulty he was allowed another interview, when he gave her an axe and other presents. On a future day she presented him with some cloth; she was then more composed, but still she could not look on him without shedding tears.
Otoo and his attendants visited both ships more than once, and the Captains and their friends paid him several visits. Capt. Cook entertained him with the music of the bagpipes, and a dance performed by the sailors; and the King entertained his visitors with a native dance, and afterwards with a heiva, or native play, accompanied with music and dancing. The harmony of their intercourse was in danger of being disturbed by a riot created on shore, in the evening of August 30th, by some seamen and marines; when alarm was spread among the inhabitants, and the timorous King fled several miles from his house; but the offenders were taken and punished, and the King was brought back.
On tuesday the 31st, the Captains and their friends paid him a final visit, when he received from Capt. Cook three Cape wethers. Capt. Furneaux had previously given him a pair of goats, male and female. He now sent for three hogs, as presents to the Captains and Mr. Forster; and one of the three being noticed as small, it was exchanged for a larger. Otoo embraced Capt. Cook several times at parting, and seemed much moved. A few more hogs were obtained from Potatow, a friendly chief, and from Oamo. On visiting the latter, Lieut. Pickersgill saw his wife Oberea, once venerated as Queen of the island, but now grown old, poor, and of little consequence.
When the ships were about to sail, a young man named Poreo offered to go in the Resolution; but after he had got an axe and a spike nail for his pretended father, another person came to demand him. The Captain perceiving that a trick had been played, kept him on board. A Spanish ship, which had visited Otaheite three months before the arrival of the Resolution and Adventure, had taken away four of the natives.
The tents having been taken down, and the sick, who had greatly recovered, being received on board, our navigators quitted Otaheite, on wednesday, September 1st, and on the 3rd they arrived at the harbour of Owharre (or Fare) in Huaheine. Here they met with a kind reception, and purchased a plentiful supply of hogs, fowls, and fruit. King Oree was still alive, and hastened to meet with his friend. The Captains and Mr. Forster were introduced to him with much ceremony. Five young plantain trees were carried into the boat, with three young pigs and a dog; and lastly, the pewter plate with the inscription, left in 1769, which with some beads and a counter had been carefully preserved in a bag. In return, three young plantain trees were, at the desire of their guide, decorated with lookingglasses, nails, medals, and beads; and, with these in their hands, the three visitors advanced towards the King, an avenue being made for them to pass through the crowd. The plantains were taken from their hands, and laid one by one before the King; the first being said to be for Eatoua—"God," the next for Earee—"the King," and the third for Tayo—"friendship." These ceremonies being ended, Oree advanced to Capt. Cook, fell on his neck, and affectionately embraced him; while the tears that trickled copiously down his venerable old cheeks, bespoke the language of his heart. Through the kindness of this worthy chief and his people, not less than 300 hogs were procured by gift or purchase, with great quantities of excellent fruits and roots. The exchange of names between him and the Captain was considered as still existing; and every day he sent, for the table of his friend, a plentiful supply of the very best fruits and roots, ready drest.
Notwithstanding the warm friendship of the King, some of his subjects shewed a very different spirit. On monday, September 6th, a chief completely equipped in his war habits, was very troublesome and insolent at the trading place; which Capt. Cook observing, took from him his two clubs, broke them before his eyes, and forced him to retire. A guard was then placed here, to prevent further insults. On the same day, Mr. Sparrman having imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was assaulted by two men, who stripped him of every thing except his trowsers, and struck him repeatedly with his own hanger. Another of the natives gave him a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him to the trading place. His appearance in this pitiful plight, filled the natives with alarm for the consequences; so that they all fled from the spot. The Captain recalled a few of them, and assured them, that such as were innocent of the crime that had been committed, had nothing to fear. He then repaired to the King, to complain of the outrage, taking with him the man who brought back Mr. Sparrman. The good King wept aloud at the recital of the robbery, as did many of his attendants. He then expostulated with his people who were present, on the disgrace of this transaction, reminding them that Oree (for so he named Cook) had behaved towards them with much kindness, both now, and on his former visit. Having taken an inventory of the articles seized by the robbers, he hastened to set out with Capt. Cook in pursuit of them; and in spite of the earnest entreaties and tears of his people, who dreaded his putting himself in the power of our navigator, he resolutely stepped into the boat, while his weeping subjects were ready to pull him back by force. The Captain, under these circumstances, was reluctant to take him; but he insisted on going. They landed on a part of the coast where the robbers were supposed to be skulking; but after travelling some miles into the country, without overtaking them, the Captain determined on returning, and the King, with great reluctance, consented to give up the pursuit. On regaining the boat, they found Oree's sister at the place, and some others who had come hither by land. His sister, as well as he, insisted on returning in the boat, notwithstanding the tears and entreaties of their friends; and the Captain rewarded their confidence in him by liberal presents. They were set ashore in safety at Owharre, where hundreds welcomed their arrival, and many embraced their King with tears of joy. Mr. Sparrman's hanger, and part of his coat, were soon after restored; with some things that had been stolen from a shooting party.
The Captains and Mr. Forster paid the King a farewell visit, on tuesday, the 7th; when along with other presents, there was given him a copper plate, inscribed, "Anchored here, His Britannic Majesty's Ships Resolution and Adventure, September 1773." The pewter plate was also returned, and both were put in a bag, with some medals, to be carefully preserved, and shewn to future visitors. He gave them presents in return, and embraced Capt. Cook at parting, with tears in his eyes. He afterwards came on board, to beg them to go ashore, and see punishment inflicted on the robbers, who had just been apprehended; but the vessels being under way, the invitation was declined. He went out with them full half a league, when again taking an affectionate leave of the Captain, he returned in his canoe, with but one attendant, all the rest having gone long before.—At this place, Capt. Furneaux took on board the Adventure a young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he had had some property, of which he had been dispossessed by the men of Bolabola.
The ships anchored in the harbour of Ohamaneno, in Ulietea, on wednesday morning. Here also our people were kindly treated, and had the offer of more hogs and fruit than they could take. The inquiries after Tupia, were far more frequent here than at Huaheine, or Otaheite. Mr. Banks was every where inquired after. Oreo, the chief of this part of the island, an old acquaintance of Capt. Cook, gave him and his companions a welcome reception; and, as the strongest pledge of friendship, exchanged names with him. He treated him and his friends with a heiva more than once. Many presents were interchanged, and much trade was carried on. On tuesday, the 14th, the Captains, with other officers and gentlemen, from both ships, dined with Oreo, on baked hogs, bread-fruit, and other native provisions, all excellently and cleanly dressed. After they had dined, the boat's crew, and native attendants, consumed what was left; and the common people were eager to pick up the crumbs that had fallen among the leaves which served for a table-cloth. The poor were observed to have very indifferent fare: several of them daily attended the ships, and assisted the butchers, to obtain from them the entrails of the hogs.
On wednesday, the 15th, the natives discovered unaccountable terror and sorrow: Oreo and his family fled from their house, and the whole neighbourhood was in a manner deserted. The few who durst venture near, spoke with strong symptoms of fear, about guns, and about people killed and wounded. Capt. Cook, unable to divine the cause of this alarm, and afraid that some disaster had befallen Lieut. Pickersgill and two boats crews, whom he had sent to Otaha to purchase a sea stock of bananas and plantains, resolved to see Oreo, and inquire what had happened. Taking a boat with some of his people, and a native, he rowed to the northward, and soon came in sight of Oreo's canoe. The chief landed, and the Captain followed him; a crowd being on the shore encouraging him to land. Here he first met the chief's wife, a venerable old lady, who threw herself into his arms, and wept bitterly. Oreo, in like manner, as soon as the Captain reached him, threw his arms about him, and burst into tears; while the women, and almost all around, joined him in loud lamentations. The Captain looked on with amazement, unable to account for this universal grief, or to get a word of explanation on the subject. At last upon close inquiry he discovered, that all this alarm and grief had arisen from the absence of the two boats crews; it was supposed that they had deserted, and that hostilities would be carried on against the whole island till they were recovered. The Captain dispelled their fears, by assuring them that the boats had gone by his orders, and would soon return. He then came on board, accompanied by some of the natives, who proclaimed the peace to all whom they saw, in rowing along the shore.
At this time, Poreo, the Tahitian youth who had come hither in the Resolution, having conceived an attachment to a young woman whom he met here, went away with her, and returned no more. His place was more than supplied by Oedidee, a young man of 17 or 18 years, a native of Bolabola, and a near relation of the great Opoony, the King of that island; whom Capt. Cook received on board the Resolution, in preference to several other natives who begged to accompany him.
The boats having returned from Otaha, well laden with plantains, our navigators having now obtained here abundant supplies of fresh provisions, including no less than 400 hogs, resolved to set sail. On friday, September 17th, they took their leave of Oreo and his son, who came on board for that purpose. Mutual presents and expressions of kindness were interchanged; the chief begging Captain Cook to return, and requesting him to say when he would renew his visit. Such questions were often put to our kind hearted navigator: it was with regret that those who knew his worth consented to part with him; and they usually sought to alleviate the sorrows of parting, by the hope of reunion.