The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 13
Arrival at Easter Island. Friendly reception: tour through the island. Few refreshments got. Voyage to the Marquesas, and incidents there. A thief unfortunately shot. Notices respecting the inhabitants. Other islands visited, or observed. Arrival at Otaheite: kindness of Otoo and his people: improved state of the country. Large fleet of canoes. Friendly conduct of Towha, the Admiral, and other chiefs. A thief punished by Capt. Cook in the presence of Otoo. Small fleet reviewed. Musket stolen, and recovered. Liberal supplies of provisions. Another fleet of canoes. Affectionate parting with Otoo and his friends. Remarks on the population of Otaheite. Visit to Huaheine: kindness of King Oree. Robberies committed. An armed party sent into the country to check them. Dramatic representations. Arrival at Ulietea. Friendly behaviour of Oreo and his family. Native plays and entertainments. Visit to Oedidee's paternal estate. Affectionate parting with Oreo, and other natives; especially with Oedidee, who left the Resolution on its departure from Ulietea.
On monday, March 11th, Easter Island came in sight; and in the evening of the 13th, the Resolution anchored opposite a sandy beach on the west side of the island. As the ship approached the land, two natives came off in a canoe; and, after presenting a bunch of plantains, returned ashore. Soon after, another native visited the ship, and came on board, where he remained two nights and a day. The first thing he did on entering, was to measure the length of the ship by fathoming her; and it was observed, that in counting the fathoms he made use of the Tahitian numerals, though in other respects the language of the natives differed considerably from that of Otaheite; so that even Oedidee understood it very imperfectly.
When the Captain and some of his people landed on the 14th, hundreds of the natives, all unarmed, welcomed them ashore. Having distributed among them some beads and trinkets, he made signs for something to eat; on which they brought a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes; and exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces of cloth. In carrying on this trade, they soon betrayed an inclination to cheat and to steal; so that our mariners were forced to be on their guard. Several European articles were seen among them, which they had procured from a Spanish ship that visited them in 1769. Some parts of the island appeared naked and barren; in other places there were plantations of vegetables; but there were no forests to yield supplies of wood, and all the water found near the shore was brackish.
Next morning, Lieutenants Pickersgill and Edgcumbe set out with a party to examine the country, while the Captain, on account of his recent illness, remained at the landing place, where a brisk traffic for provisions was carried on with the natives. The party were preceded in their excursion by a middle-aged chief, well tattooed, and having his face painted with a sort of white pigment. He bore in his hand a spear, with a piece of white cloth on it, as an ensign of peace. They visited several of those stone platforms, with colossal statues, first described in Roggewin's Voyage; and found most of them in ruins, with the statues laid prostrate. Some of the latter, measured by Mr. Wales, were from 15 to 27 feet long; and a few of those that were standing appeared much taller. In crossing the country, the gentlemen passed a few huts, the owners of which treated them with roasted potatoes and sugar-canes, and gave them water to quench their thirst, some wells of good water being found in the interior. Other natives, however, attempted to plunder them; and one man having snatched a bag and run off with it, was fired at with small shot. This occasioned some confusion and delay; but at length their guide, having hoisted his white flag, led them on as before, and no other attempt at theft occurred during the day. In passing a hill, they met with the chief of the island, who, like the King of Tongataboo, has the title Areeke. was well tattooed and painted, and wore a better cloth than his attendants. To him the guide presented the white flag; and he gave it to another person, who preceded the party during the rest of their excursion. The houses of these people are poorly constructed; their canoes are small; their cloth is of the same kind with that of the Tahitians, though inferior in quality; and they use the same ovens for baking their food. Some fowls were seen among them, but no pigs.
As Easter Island afforded neither wood nor water for the ship, and but few refreshments, Capt. Cook left it on wednesday, the 16th, and steered for the Marquesas. On the voyage thither, he had a return of his bilious complaint; but it was neither violent, nor of long continuance. The weather being fine, the forge was set up on board, to repair the iron-work, and the decks and other parts of the ship were caulked.
On wednesday, April 6th, the most northerly island of the Marquesas was seen; and this proving a new discovery, not observed by Mendana in 1595, when he discovered the other four islands, it was named Hood's Island, after the young gentleman who first saw it. St. Pedro, La Dominica, and St. Christina came in sight soon after: and on the 7th the Resolution anchored in Mendana's port in St. Christina, after being nearly driven against the rocks, by violent squalls from the high land.
Some canoes had followed the ship along the coast, and ten or twelve came near, as soon as she had anchored. At first the natives were shy; but a hatchet and some spike-nails having induced the people in one canoe to come along-side, the rest immediately followed; and a friendly trade was soon set on foot, breadfruit and fish being purchased with nails. Next morning, a much greater number of natives appeared, bringing breadfruit, plantains, and one pig; which they sold for nails, and other articles. They soon began, however, to cheat and pilfer; and a shot fired over the head of one of the principal offenders, had but little effect in restraining them. The Captain, on getting into a boat to look out for a good mooring place, cautioned his officers to be on their guard; and he had scarcely given the caution, when an iron stanchion was stolen by some natives, who were making off with it in their canoe. Upon this he gave orders to fire over the canoe; but unfortunately his orders were not distinctly heard, owing to the noise made by the natives, and the unhappy thief was shot. On reaching his canoe, from whence the stanchion was thrown overboard, the Captain found along with the wretched victim, a youth who proved to be his son, who was greatly dejected, and an aged man, who sat bailing the blood and water out of the canoe, in a kind of hysteric laugh. On perceiving this melancholy accident, all the natives fled; but the Captain prevailed on some of them to come alongside his boat, and allayed their fears by a few presents.
A suitable mooring place being found, the ship was warped into it by means of a kedge anchor; and while this was doing, two natives in a canoe, notwithstanding the alarming event that had just happened, attempted to steal the buoy; and were not driven from their purpose till a shot was fired over them, happily the last shot which there was occasion to fire at any of them. A man soon after came and presented a pig, for which he received a hatchet; and a brisk trade for refreshments was then re-established.
The Captain, during his stay, went several times on shore, where the islanders received him very courteously. They were sensible that he was their friend, but were afraid of his people: and hence, when he sent a party on shore, and remained on board, they fled in terror; but when he went himself, they crowded around him. The trade for pigs, and other refreshments, was carried on some days with advantage; but on monday the 11th, the market was found to be ruined, through the imprudence of some young gentlemen, who had given the natives, in barter, some articles which they valued far more than nails. One of them had given for a pig a very large quantity of red feathers, obtained at Tongataboo; and, after getting so rich a prize for a single pig, they would part with no more, on any reasonable terms. This induced the Captain immediately to quit the Marquesas, knowing that the Society Islands could furnish a better supply. He therefore sailed in the afternoon from the place of anchorage, which he named Resolution Bay. He did not, however, leave these islands, till he had ascertained their exact position, hitherto erroneously laid down. He made observations also, as usual, on the inhabitants, whom he describes as the finest race of men in the Pacific. Their manners, dress, weapons, and language were akin to those of Otaheite and the Society Isles; and Oedidee was able to converse with them tolerably well.
Taking his departure from the Marquesas on the 12th, our navigator, having a fine easterly wind, steered to the west and south, till on the 17th he fell in with an island, consisting of a cluster of low islets connected by a coral reef; which proved to be Tiookea, discovered by Commodore Byron. Lieut. Cooper, and Mr. Forster were sent on shore with two boats; but they found the natives shy and unfriendly. They procured, however, five dogs, and two dozen cocoa-nuts. The natives, like the Marquesans and Tahitians, were tattooed; and most of the men were marked with the figure of a fish, an appropriate emblem of their profession. Next day, a similar cluster of islets appeared, being another discovery of Byron; who named this island and Tiookea George's Islands; but placed their longitude about 4° too far west; a mistake which Capt. Cook now corrected. Other four islands, or circles of islets, with a lagoon in the middle, were met with on the 19th; and this group the Captain named Palliser's Isles, in honour of his friend and patron. The inhabitants were like those of Tiookea. Referring to these discoveries, Captain Cook observes, that this part of the ocean is so thickly strewed with such low isles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much caution.
Quitting these islands on the 20th, the Resolution proceeded towards Otaheite, which with the neighbouring islands presented to our mariners the most fascinating attractions, and could not be approached but with feelings of delight. The high land of Otaheite was descried on thursday, April 21st; and next morning the Resolution anchored in Matavai Bay. An observatory and tents were put up at Point Venus, for the use of Mr. Wales and others; but happily there was no occasion to erect a temporary hospital, for there were no sick on board.
If our navigators rejoiced in visiting this favourite island, the Tahitians were no less delighted with their return. Fruit, fish, and hogs were sent on board in abundance; and King Otoo had a principal share in furnishing this welcome supply. On the 24th, he and his retinue dined on board, and were dismissed with suitable presents, highly gratified with the Captain's hospitality. Fortunately he had reserved a stock of red parrot feathers, procured at Tongataboo, such as had been inconsiderately squandered away at the Marquesas; and here also these were so highly prized, that when it was known they were to be obtained on board, the principal people of both sexes eagerly sought to procure them, by bringing hogs, fruit, and whatever else the island afforded.
The Captain was agreeably surprised to find the state of the country wonderfully improved since his last visit. Great numbers of commodious houses, and large canoes, had been built, or were now building, at Matavai and Oparree; and hogs that were so scarce before, were now seen in abundance. Instead, therefore, of speedily removing to one of the Society Islands, as at first proposed, he resolved to prolong his stay here, to repair the ship and stores, as well as to procure refreshments.
On tuesday, the 26th, the Captain, and some of the officers and gentlemen, went down to Oparree to visit the King; and were astonished to find an immense fleet assembled there, consisting of 330 double canoes; of which number, 160 were war canoes, well equipped, manned, and armed; and gaily decorated with flags and streamers; making a grand and noble appearance, such as our mariners little expected to see in the Pacific. The chiefs, and all those on the fighting stages, were dressed in their war habits; having turbans, helmets, breastplates, and quantities of cloth. Their arms were clubs, spears, and stones. The gentlemen, on landing, were received with much kindness, by Towha, admiral of the fleet, and Tee, uncle to King Otoo. These two chiefs, and their friends, appeared to form two parties; one of which strove to conduct Capt. Cook to the King, while the other sought to detain him with the admiral. The Captain finding himself in danger of being pulled in pieces between them, while his comrades were jostled about in the crowd; hearing also that the King was gone from the place, and afraid that matters did not stand well between him and the commander of this vast fleet, the assembling of which appeared a mystery,—he refused Towha's invitation to go on board his vessel, and was glad to get into the boat again with his party, and return to Matavai. He learned soon after, that this grand fleet was part of an armament collected for the purpose of reducing Eimeo, which had recently revolted from the dominion of Otoo; and he regretted his having missed so fine an opportunity of inspecting the fleet, and seeing the naval tactics, of this interesting people. It turned out, that Otoo did not make his appearance at Oparree, because some of his people had stolen a quantity of the Captain's clothes that were washing on shore, and the King dreaded the consequences. Towha imagined, that the Captain was offended with him on the same account, and that this was the cause of his refusing to go on board the war canoe. These things were explained, when the Captain paid another visit to Oparree in the afternoon, attended by Oedidee, who was unfortunately absent in the morning. By that time the fleet had sailed to the westward, from whence they had come.
Next morning, Towha sent two of his servants, with two large hogs and some fruit, as a present to the Captain; giving them orders to take nothing in return. The Captain soon after took another trip to Oparree in his boat; and brought Otoo and Towha to dine on board, with Tarevatoo the King's brother, and Tee his uncle. The admiral, on seeing the Resolution for the first time, was struck with wonder at her size and construction, and took great interest in examining every part of the vessel. While he was conducted over it, Otoo was the principal showman; having now become well acquainted with the use of every part. Towha, before retiring, put another hog on board privately, taking nothing in return. The king seemed a little jealous of this chief, while he treated him with much respect. Both solicited the Captain's aid against Tiarabu, with which they were now at peace; but their application receiving no countenance, was not renewed.
On the 28th, Waheatua, King of Tiarabu, sent a present of a hog, desiring a few red feathers in return; and these, with some other things, were accordingly sent him.
Next day, Otoo, Towha, and several other grandees, came on board with valuable presents of provisions and curiosities; and at this time Towha, as well as the rest, accepted liberal returns. On this day, a remarkable occurrence took place. One of the natives, having been caught in the act of stealing a water-cask the night before, was now in irons on board, where the visitors saw him. His crime was stated to them; yet the King begged that he might be set at liberty. The Captain replied, that he punished his own people when they stole from the Tahitians, and was determined that this man should not escape; and as he knew that Otoo would not punish him, he was resolved to do it himself. The man was accordingly taken ashore, and tied up to a post, attended by the guard under arms. Otoo, with his sister and others, now begged hard for the culprit's release, while Towha remained silent. The Captain expostulated with Otoo, on the bad conduct of this man, and others of his subjects, in stealing from the British, who had been their good friends, and took nothing from them without paying for it; he then plainly told the King, that this man must be made an example, to deter others from similar crimes, and thus prevent the loss of life; because, if such practices continued, the thieves would very likely be shot dead. With these arguments Otoo appeared so far satisfied, that he now only requested that the culprit might not be killed. Upon this, the Captain, in the presence of a great crowd, which he commanded to be kept at a proper distance, ordered the fellow two dozen lashes; which he bore with great firmness, and was then set at liberty. The King said nothing more; but Towha addressed the people in a speech of nearly half an hour, delivered with much energy, and gracefulness of action: and in this harangue he ably seconded the views of Capt. Cook, condemning theft, and recommending honesty. To strengthen the impression made on the multitude, the marines were ordered to go through their exercise, loading and firing in vollies with ball; and as they were very quick in their manœuvres, it is easier to conceive than describe the amazement and awe produced by this exhibition.—The whole transaction illustrates that firmness of purpose, for which our navigator was distinguished. It required no small vigour and decision, thus to inflict punishment on the subject of an independent prince, against his will, and in presence of a large concourse of his people.
In the evening, Mr. Forster and the other naturalists returned from the mountains, where they had spent the preceding night. They had found several new plants, and enjoyed a most extensive view from the lofty peaks which they climbed, having seen the island Huaheine, which lies 40 leagues to the westward. Several other excursions of this kind were made during the ship's stay.
Our navigator was happy to find, that the goats left here, by Captain Furneaux, had increased, and were likely to stock the island. The sheep, however, had all died but one. A stock of cats was furnished, both to Otaheite, and to the Society Islands.
On the 30th, Capt. Cook had an opportunity of seeing ten war canoes go through their paddling exercise; which was done with great expedition, although the vessels seemed to be but thinly manned with rowers. The warriors on the fighting stages encouraged the rowers to exert themselves; while some youths sitting aloft in the curved stern, with white wands in their hands, were keeping a look out, and giving directions. Tarevatoo, who was present, desired that Mr. Hodges might be sent for, having observed that he made drawings of every thing curious.
On the first two days of May, large supplies of provisions were received; and these were the more welcome, as it was found, on examining the state of the biscuit, that much of it was rotten and useless, and the rest required to be again aired and cleaned.
The friendly intercourse between the British and the Tahitians, which had continued and increased since the punishment of the thief, was interrupted by another theft, committed in the night between the 7th and 8th of May; when one of the sentinels on shore, having slept or quitted his post, his musket was carried off by one of the natives. This incident, as usual, created a general alarm, and put a stop to all trade in provisions. The Captain, to procure redress, sought an interview with Otoo; but the latter had disappeared.. He then detained five canoes, that the owners might feel interested in the recovery of the musket; but through the representations of Tee and Oedidee, whose good faith, in reference to this matter, was suspected, the canoes were given up. Yet the musket, and some other stolen articles, were brought to the tents in the dusk of the evening, by three men, who had pursued the thief, and taken them from him. They received a reward; and not a few, desiring to share with them, pretended to have taken part in recovering the stolen property. One man, named Nuno, claimed the honour of having alone killed the thief; and assuming a fierce countenance, laid about him with his club, to shew how he had despatched him; although it was well known, that Nuno had all the while been at home. in his own house!
On the 9th, the Captain paid a visit to Otoo at Oparree. The King inquired why he fired at the canoes; and the Captain, rather artfully, replied, that they belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabu man, one of whose people was said to have stolen the musket. Matters were soon made up by a few presents; but, owing to some dissatisfaction on the part of old Whappai, or Happi, the King's father, the provision market was not opened until tuesday, the 10th. On that day, Otoo was entertained by seeing the great guns fired from the ship, but felt more enjoyment in an exhibition of fire-works in the evening.
Liberal supplies of fruit were sent on board next day, part of which came from Towha, now ill at Atahooroo. Oedidee was sent with his servants, to visit him with a present. On the 12th, the celebrated Oberea came with a present of hogs and fruit; and afterwards Otoo, with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provisions. The Captain treated them liberally, and entertained them at night with fire-works.
The ship being now ready for sea, it was necessary for Oedidee to determine, whether he would proceed on the voyage with his English friends, or remain at home. He was a great favourite on board, and many advised him to go to England, where he would become immensely rich, according to his ideas of riches. But the Captain told him, that if he went to England, he must make up his mind to abide there, in which case he might look upon him as a father. The youth threw his arms around him, and wept much; but stated, that many of his friends wished him to remain at the islands. He was directed to consult with them, and having done so, he decided on remaining at home: yet Mr. Forster prevailed on him to go as far as Ulietea. Many youths at this time offered to go in the ship, to live and die in Pretance (their name for Britain); and some gentlemen on board were desirous of supplying themselves with Tahitian servants; but the Captain, knowing that they would be of little service on board, having no prospect of restoring them to their country, and feeling the responsibility of taking persons from their native place, whom he might afterwards find it impossible to take care of, stedfastly refused all such applications. Otoo begged him to take some of his people to Tongataboo, to collect red feathers for him, willing to run the risk of their returning, or not; but to this proposal, also, he would not consent.
On saturday, the 14th, when the Resolution was about to sail, several chiefs, and their friends, came on board to take leave; among whom was Towha, who being ill with swollen feet and legs, had come hither with great difficulty, from Atahooroo, and was hoisted into the ship. Parting presents were now interchanged; and among those given to Towha, he set most value on an English pendant, the use of which was explained to him. When these friends had been dismissed, a fleet of canoes was perceived coming round the point of Oparree; upon which, Capt. Cook, and some of the officers and gentlemen, hastened to Oparree to take a view of it; and were gratified with observing the equipment and manœuvres of the vessels, particularly their clever mode of landing. At the Captain's request, Otoo made some of the troops go through their exercise on shore; and in this exhibition, the combatants shewed much dexterity in avoiding or parrying off the blows of their antagonists. The fleet of war canoes, forty in number, having departed, Otoo shewed his visitors one of his dockyards, where two large pahies, or canoes, each 108 feet long, intended to make one double canoe, were now building. The king begged and received for this vessel a grappling and rope; the Captain added also an English jack and pendant, and at his request the canoe was named Britannia. Otoo and Tee accompanied his visitors on board the Resolution, to dinner; after which he took an affectionate leave of them. He remained alongside in his canoe till the ship was under sail, when he put off, and was saluted with three guns.
While the Resolution was leaving Matavai Bay, an Irishman, one of the gunner's mates, who had joined the Endeavour at Batavia, slipped overboard, to be taken up by a canoe, then waiting for him, according to a preconcerted plan, that he might settle on the island: but before he got clear of the ship, a boat was hoisted out, and took him up. As he had no near relations, the Captain was disposed to excuse him for wishing to remain in this delightful place; and might have granted his desire, had he applied at a proper time.
In closing that part of his journal which relates to the visit now paid to Otaheite, his favourite island, the Captain makes various remarks on its form of government, on the different ranks or orders of society here, and on the amount of the population. Assuming, that each of the 43 districts in the island, might furnish, on an average, as many war canoes as Tettaha, which raised and equipped 40, and allowing 40 men as the crew of each canoe; he thus calculates the number of able men at 68,000; and estimates the whole population at 204,000. These assumptions, however, are erroneous; and the calculations founded on them far exceed the reality. When Capt. Wilson landed with the Missionaries in 1797, he estimated the population at only 16,000; and when the Missionaries themselves, a few years after, made a more correct census, they found the number to be only about 8,000. Now, although it is certain that, owing to the introduction of European diseases, the use of fire-arms and of ardent spirits, combined with destructive wars, and the dreadful prevalence of infanticide, the population had rapidly declined after the discovery of the island, it is not credible, that in less than thirty years the population should be reduced to only a twentieth part of what it was in the time of Cook, or not so much. It is gratifying to know, that since the Tahitians embraced Christianity, which has checked the ravages of war and crime, their numbers are steadily increasing.
On the 15th of May, the Resolution anchored in Fare harbour, in Huaheine; where the good old King Oree gave our navigator a welcome reception. Much friendly trade, with interchange of presents and entertainments, took place on the subsequent days; but some things occurred, as at the last visit, to interrupt this agreeable intercourse. On the 16th, when Mr. Forster and his party were botanizing in the country, his servant was beset by five or six fellows, who took a hatchet from him, and would have stripped him of every thing, had not one of the party opportunely come to his assistance. Two days after, some of the petty officers having gone. into the country for their amusement, with two muskets, took two natives to be their guides, and to carry their bags, containing nails, hatchets, &c. to trade with; the treacherous guides, watching their opportunity, when one musket had just been fired off, and the other had repeatedly missed. fire, ran off with the bags and all their contents. On the 20th, three officers set out on a shooting excursion, rather against the Captain's inclination; and having offended some of the natives, the latter seized their guns, and a scuffle ensued; but some chiefs interfering, the officers were rescued, and their property restored. On receiving intelligence of their being robbed, Capt. Cook landed with a boat's crew, and took possession of a large house, with all its effects, and two chiefs that were in it; but when the officers returned safe, he quitted all, and went on board.
As it appeared that a gang of fellows had associated, to rob all the British who came in their way, Oree, who had already given Capt. Cook permission to shoot the robbers, sent a message by Oedidee, on the 21st, requesting the Captain to land with 22 men, and go with him to chastise these marauders; giving the bearer 22 pieces of leaves, that he might not forget the number. After visiting the King in person, to converse with him on the object of the expedition, the Captain resolving to comply with his request, landed with 48 men, including officers and scientific gentlemen; and the chief having joined them with a few people, they marched in good order, in search of the banditti. As they proceeded, the chief's party increased like a snowball; when Oedidee began to be alarmed, and intimated, that some of the company were the very robbers they were going against; and that the natives were designing to lead the British into some defile, where they might attack them with advantage. Hence, when the party, after marching several miles, were about to cross a deep valley, with steep rocks on each side, the Captain prudently declined going any further, especially as it was said that the robbers had fled to the mountains. The appearance of some armed parties coming down from the hills, who hid their arms in the bushes, when they saw themselves observed, confirmed the suspicions thrown out by Oedidee. The good King Oree was considered incapable of taking part in such base treachery; but his people, who took advantage of his years and his feebleness, and often acted contrary to his wishes, might have formed such a wicked plot without his knowledge.
When the party arrived at the landing-place, several vollies were fired in quick succession, by the Captain's orders, to impress the natives more forcibly with the power of their fire arms. The great guns had been fired on a former day, at Oree's request, to gratify his curiosity. Several peaceofferings of hogs and fruit, were sent as the result of this expedition. Abundant supplies of fruits were procured at this island; but hogs were rather scarce. Red feathers were in less request than at Otaheite; and it was necessary to set the smiths to work, to make nails and iron tools, to trade with; this kind of stock being nearly exhausted.
During their stay here, our people were sonietimes entertained by the natives with dramatic representations. In one instance, the piece represented a young girl running away with the British from Otaheite. The incidents were founded on fact; a young woman having taken a passage with them to Ulietea. She was present at the exhibition of her own adventures; in which, among other things, her unfavourable reception by her friends on returning home, was set forth. The girl could not refrain from tears, and wanted to get away before the piece was concluded. It seemed meant as a rebuke to her, and a hint to their own females to beware of following her example. On this head, the gentlemen, as well as the girl, stood in need of a rebuke; for, according to the captain's own account, an infamous traffic in sin had been carried on by our people at Otaheite. A shirt was the usual price of prostitution: the girls went on board in rags in the evening, to return home clothed in the morning; and to such an extent was this disgraceful trade carried on, that several persons on board were not only stripped of all their shirts, but gave the girls shirts of Tahitian cloth, when their own were all gone. Such proceedings might well disgust even the heathen; and it seems surprising that our navigator, who in some things was a strict disciplinarian, should tolerate practices so glaringly criminal.
On monday, May 23rd, the Resolution sailed from Huaheine. Oree was the last native to leave the ship; and when the Captain told him at parting, that he should see him no more, the affectionate old chief wept, and said, "Let your sons come; we will treat them well."
Next day, the Resolution entered a harbour in the south end of Ulietea; and while the ship was warping in and mooring, which owing to adverse winds and the straitness of the entrance occupied some time, the chief Oreo, with several others, came on board to welcome their British visitors. When the Captain and his friends went on shore the day following, they were greeted with the most cordial salutations; for, on entering the chief's house, they were met by four or five old women, weeping bitterly, and cutting their heads with shark's teeth, till the blood ran down plentifully on their faces. and shoulders. "What was still worse," says the Captain in his narrative, "we were obliged to submit to the embraces of these old hags, and by that means we were all besmeared with blood. This ceremony (for it was merely such) being over, they went out, washed themselves, and immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company." After this affectionate reception at the house of the chief, they were welcomed by all the inhabitants of the place; while multitudes crowded to see them from all parts of the island, and took up their quarters in the neighbourhood, where they remained feasting for several days.
The facts now stated, with others of the like kind, illustrate the uncertainty of computing the population of any of these islands, from the numbers seen at any one point. Exempted from agricultural labours, and from the toil and confinement of any regular trade or business, these islanders could quickly assemble in crowds, at any spot, to which curiosity, pleasure, or interest might draw them; and could remain there, with little inconvenience, for days or weeks. The fertility and natural riches of their soil afforded them seasons of leisure, unknown in less fruitful countries.
The Resolution continued here ten days, during which, several excursions were made into the country, particularly by Mr. Forster and the naturalists; many friendly visits passed between the captain and Oreo, and entertainments were mutually given. Native plays were performed daily, in several of which allusions were made to the British visitors. There were various theatres, and sets of performers. The only actress at Oreo's theatre was his daughter, a pretty brown girl, at whose shrine, on these occasions, many offerings were made by her numerous votaries. In one performance, acted by a set of brawny fellows, the closing scene was the representation of a woman in labour, bringing forth a son; and as the person representing the child had his nose pressed, as soon as he was taken hold of, it was inferred, that this people, like many of the African tribes, flatten the noses of their children at their birth; which accounts for the fact, that these islanders, like the negroes, have generally at noses.
Mr. Forster, in one of his excursions, saw a marai where dogs were buried, probably those that were offered in sacrifice to their gods. In another place, four wooden images, each two feet long, were seen in the corner of a house, standing on a shelf.
The friendly intercourse with the people of Ulietea was only once, and for a very short time, interrupted by a theft, when several articles were stolen from the boats. By the assistance of Oreo, all of them were recovered, except the iron tiller of the pinnace; and for the loss of that, a trespass offering of two good hogs was received.
On monday, May 30th, a visit was paid to the estate that belonged to Oedidee, now in the possession of his brother, who received a handsome present, and gave the Captain two hogs. One of these was killed and dressed for dinner in the native way, and afforded an excellent repast. Oedidee had promised his friends a large supply; but was found to have lost his authority over his paternal inheritance. Indeed, in this his native island, he was treated with neglect; whereas, in Otaheite he was so much respected, that he might almost have commanded any thing he desired.
While the Captain was preparing for his departure, much fruit was brought on board by the natives, and a brisk trade for hogs, as well as fruit, was carried on. Among the visitors was a young man who measured 6 feet 4 inches, while his sister measured 5 feet 10 inches. On the 2nd of June, a man pretended to bring news, that two ships had arrived at Huaheine, one commanded by Mr. Banks, and the other by Capt. Furneaux, whose persons were correctly described; but it was soon found, that the whole account was a fabrication. In the evening of that day, the natives were entertained with a display of fire-works.
Saturday, the 4th, being the day appointed for sailing, the chiefs, and many others, came on board to take their last farewell. Oo-oo-rou, the hereditary King of the island, was of the number; as well as Oreo, who was a kind of viceroy for Opoony the chief sovereign. Boba, the King, or viceroy, of Otaha, also accompanied them. Many presents were distributed among them. Oreo, and his wife and daughter, took a most affectionate leave of the Captain, with many tears. When the latter would not promise to return, the chief begged to know the name of his marai (burial place); and when he replied "Stepney," he was desired to repeat the name till the natives could pronounce it; and then, Stepney marai no Toote—Stepney is the marai of Cook," was echoed through a hundred mouths at once. This inquiry on the part of Oreo was expressive of the warmest friendship; he wished to know where the body of his friend would be laid, that he and his family might do honour to his remains. Mr. Forster, as Capt. Cook remarks, gave a more proper answer to the same question, put to him by a friend on shore, viz. "That no man who used the sea, could say where he should be buried;" a statemen. too sadly verified in the case of our great navigator.
But the most affecting parting was that with Oedidee, who was so warmly attached to Captain Cook and his people, that, if but a slight hope of his returning home had been given him, he would have rejoiced to accompany them to Britain. No words could express the anguish in this young man's breast, when he went away. He looked up at the ship, burst into tears, and then sunk down into the canoe. Before he went out of the ship, he requested the Captain to tattoo a word for him, that is, to write him a certificate, to shew to any commanders of vessels that might touch at the island; a request that was readily granted. He was a youth of good parts; of a docile, gentle, and humane disposition; and, though he possessed little knowledge of the religion, government, manners, and history, of his countrymen, he would, in every respect, have been a better specimen of the nation than Omai. He did not leave the ship, till it was almost out of the harbour; having staid to fire some guns; for this being His Majesty's birthday, the salute was fired at going away.
Our navigator had thoughts of visiting Tupia's famous Bolabola; but being now amply supplied with refreshments, he laid aside this design, and, to use his own words, "directed his course to the west; taking his final leave of these happy isles, on which benevolent Nature has spread her luxuriant sweets with a lavish hand;" and where "the natives, copying the bounty of Nature, are equally liberal; contributing plentifully and cheerfully to the wants of navigators."