The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 16
Voyage from New Zealand to Terra del Fuego. West const of that country explored. Christmas Sound: excursions on shore, and intercourse with the natives. Cape Horn, and the adjacent coasts. Success Bay. New Year's Harbour and Isles, in Staten Land. Coasts of that country surveyed; its natural productions. South Georgia discovered, and examined: its dreary aspect. Sandwich Land discovered; Southern Thule, &c. Forbidding appearance of these icy regions: reasons for not attempting to explore them. Another fruitless search for Cape Circumcision. Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope. News of the Adventure; and of the French navigators. Voyage to St. Helena,—to Ascension,—to Fernando de Noronha,—and to Fayal. Arrival in England.
Sailing from Ship Cove, on thursday, Nov. 10th, and passing through the Strait that bears his name, Capt. Cook again took his departure from Cape Palliser, and steered in a S.E. direction; but turned toward the east, when he had attained 55° S. latitude. He thus kept in a lower latitude than before, pursuing his voyage in a new track, to explore a larger portion of the South Pacific. Had he known, that this was very nearly the course taken by the Adventure, he would probably have crossed that ocean in a parallel of latitude still lower. The journal of this part of the voyage contains nothing but a record of the changes of the weather, the progress made as to latitude and longitude, the variation of the compass, with notices of birds, seals, and rock-weed, and of a few striking phenomena that were seen; particularly the aurora australis, and some singular fog-banks that were mistaken for land. During the passage, Mr. Wales. ingeniously contrived an instrument for measuring correctly the angle formed by the rolling of the ship. The greatest angle observed was 38°.
Finding no land in this extensive track, and having no hope of discovering any in this part of the ocean, our navigator rightly judged, that the best service he could now render to navigation and geography, would be to explore the western and southern shores of Terra del Fuego, hitherto very imperfectly known. He, therefore, made for the western entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, and came in sight of the land near Cape Deseada, on saturday, December 17th.; completing his passage from New Zealand in about the same time as the Adventure.
Bidding adieu to the Pacific, which had so long been the scene of his researches, he now coasted along Terra del Fuego, from Cape Deseada southward; keeping at about two leagues distance from the shore, and marking the most striking features of the coast. To a high rugged isle, which was first in his way, he gave the name Landfall. A projecting point, about 17 leagues further south, he termed Cape Gloucester. He afterwards passed Cape Noir, where he observed some remarkable rocks, and rocky islets. He then crossed the great bay of St. Barbara, which opens into the Straits of Magalhaens: and he named the S.E. point of this bay, Cape Desolation; because here the country begins to be most desolate and barren, consisting of naked mountains and rocks, with frightful precipices, and craggy summits spiring up to a vast height, without the least vestige of vegetation. In the interior, the mountains were covered with snow, but not on the coast.
An island to the south of Cape Desolation was called Gilbert Isle, after the Master. About 19 leagues to the south of this isle, a lofty promontory was seen, terminating in a romantic rock, presenting the appearance of two high towers with a sugar-loaf hill between; and this rock, from a very natural association of ideas, the Captain named York Minster. Finding an opening on the east side of this promontory, he stood in for the land, in the evening of the 20th: and although in some parts of the entrance he found no bottom, he afterwards met with good anchorage; and next morning moved the ship into a comfortable cove, where there was a valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water. Here the Resolution remained a week, and this being Christmas time, the inlet was named Christmas Sound. The greater part of this Sound, which is of considerable extent, was carefully surveyed by the Captain and his officers. It contains a number of islands: that where the ship was anchored was termed Shag Island, as it abounded with shags; and another opposite to it, much frequented by geese, was named Goose Island. Numbers of coves, or harbours, were found, affording safe anchorage, with wood and water. A large one, to the west of Shag Island, was called Port Clerke; and another, adjoining to it on the north, Pickersgill Cove.
On the day after the Resolution arrived here, a serious accident happened; one of the marines fell overboard out of the head, and was drowned. In other respects, the stay of our people here was attended with considerable enjoyment. They had not only plenty of wood and water for the ship, but good supplies of celery; while the shags, ducks, and especially geese, which they shot, furnished some welcome, and even rich repasts. On the 24th, they shot no less than 76 geese, so that the whole crew had an excellent Christmas dinner, of roast and boiled goose, goose pie, &c; and having still some Madeira wine left, the only part of their stores that improved by keeping, they kept Christmas as cheerfully as most of their friends in England. The Captain gratefully observes, "Had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, our Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork."
In their excursions, they had observed huts, and other tokens that the place was inhabited; and, on the 24th, a number of natives, in nine canoes, came alongside the ship, and some of them came on board. By their familiarity, as well as by the knives in their possession, it appeared that they were not unacquainted with Europeans. They were of the same wretched nation, formerly seen in Success Bay, on the east side of this country. Bougainville named them Pecheras; a word which they had frequently in their mouth. They are described as a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. Most of the men had no clothing but a seal skin, scarcely sufficient to cover their shoulders; although, by using more seal skins, and lining them with skins of birds, they might, with a little industry, clothe themselves decently and comfortably. They are, however, inured to the cold from their birth; for the children had no covering whatever. Yet these people shewed a desire for warmth: each canoe had a fire in it, over which the poor creatures huddled themselves; and when some of them were standing naked and shivering on deck, in the evening of the 26th, they gladly accepted some baize and old canvass, which the Captain humanely gave them to cover themselves. As they smelt intolerably of oil, their presence was not much desired on board, particularly at meal time. They had bows, arrows, and darts or harpoons, pointed with bone. They partook of biscuits, but were better pleased with presents of beads, medals, and knives.
Mr. Forster and his party were much gratified in their botanical excursions. Almost every plant here was new to them, and some species were remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or the sweetness of their smell. A kind of cranberry, used for food by the natives, grows here in abundance; and the tree which produces winter bark, was found in the woods.—Mr. Wales was also busy in his department, having his observatory erected on the top of a rock near the ship. The latitude of the place was found to be 55° 27' S.; the longitude 70° 16' W. The Captain, ever attentive to the interests of navigation, carefully describes the position and aspect of the principal points in this Sound, especially at its entrance, and has laid them down correctly in his chart.
In proceeding hence on the 28th, our navigator observed in his progress towards the south and east, that the coast is much indented with inlets, and studded with isles, as he had found it to the north of Christmas Sound. At the same time, he considered this coast as much less dangerous than it had been represented. In the evening, he had a good view of the Ildefonso Isles, a group about six leagues from the main. Soon after, he passed the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by Hermite, in 1624. It is sometimes called false Cape Horn, being the southern point of Terra del Fuego. In the evening of next day, he passed the famous Cape Horn, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the most southern extremity of a group of islands, called Hermite Islands, lying before Nassau Bay; and was found to be in lat. 55° 58' S., long. 67° 46' W. About three leagues E.N.E. from Cape Horn, is a rocky point which Capt. Cook named Mistaken Cape: it is the southern point of the most easterly of Hermite Isles. Between this and Cape Horn, there seemed to be a passage directly into Nassau Bay; but, owing to hazy weather, the objects here were seen indistinctly.
Steering for Strait le Maire, our navigator visited Success Bay on the 30th; and sent Lieutenant Pickersgill on shore, to see if any token could be found, indicating that the Adventure had been here. Of course, nothing was observed, as she had not touched here; but the Captain, with his usual prudence, caused a card to be nailed to a tree at the watering place of the Endeavour, to give notice to Capt. Furneaux that the Resolution had passed, in the event of his coming after. The natives whom Mr. Pickersgill met with were very friendly, and made signs for the ship to anchor in the bay. They were the same kind of people as those of Christmas Sound. The bay was full of whales and seals. By comparing the longitude of this place with that of the west side of Terra del Fuego, our navigator ascertained, that its breadth is not so great as had hitherto been supposed.
From Success Bay, he steered to the east, and then, on the 31st, he bore up for the east end of Staten Land, intending to explore the east and south coasts of this country, with which mariners were as yet but little acquainted. His progress this day was retarded by thick foggy weather; and he cast anchor near the most easterly of some islands on the N.E. coast of Staten Land. On this island, the boats landed with a large party, who Billed vast numbers of a large kind of seals, called sea-bears, and a still larger species, called sea-lions; the young being killed for food, the old for their skins and blubber. Quantities of young penguins and shags, with some geese and ducks, were also procured; and afforded many agreeable meals. Next day, January 1st, 1775, Mr. Gilbert discovered a good harbour in Staten Land; which, on account of the day, was called New Year's Harbour, while the isles that lay off it were named New Year's Isles. On monday, the 2nd, further supplies of young seals and penguins were procured from the island; and on the 3rd, our navigator stood for Cape St. John, the eastern point of Staten Land; and having passed round this cape, he hauled up along the south coast, till he attained a good view of Cape St. Bartholomew, the S.W. point of Staten Land; after which he bore away towards the S.E.
Capt. Cook closes his account of this part of the world, with some observations relating to his valuable chart of the southern extremity of America, and notices respecting the tides, currents, variation of the compass, and other matters useful for navition, the interests of which he never lost sight of. On the coast of Staten Land, as on that of Terra del Fuego, he observed many inlets and small isles. He briefly notices some of its vegetable and animal productions; at the same time modestly remarking, that he made no pretensions to be either a botanist or a naturalist. One curious fact which he states is, that the different animals at New Year's Isles, seem to live harmoniously together, as if they had entered into a league, not to disturb each other's tranquillity. "The sea-lions occupy most of the sea-coast; the sea-bears take up their abode in the isle; the shags have post in the highest cliffs; the penguins fix their quarters where there is the most easy communication to and from the sea; and the other birds choose more retired places. We have seen all these animals mix together, like domestic cattle and poultry in a farm-yard, without one attempting to molest the other. Nay, I have often observed the eagles and vultures sitting on the hillocks among the shags, without the latter, either young or old, being disturbed at their presence. It may be asked," he adds, "how these birds of prey live? I suppose, on the carcases of seals and birds which die by various causes; and probably not few, as they are so numerous."
On thursday, the 4th, the day after her departure from Staten Land, the Resolution was overtaken by a heavy squall, which came on so suddenly, that there was not time to take in the sails; in consequence of which, a top-gallant mast, a studding-sail boom, and a fore studding-sail, were carried away. The Captain kept on a S.E. course, with a view to fall in with the extensive coast, laid down by Dalrymple, in which is the Gulph of St. Sebastian; and to search for other lands, said to have been seen in those seas. Nothing was met with in the places marked in the charts; but, on persevering farther towards the S.E., land was seen, on the 14th; yet, owing to stormy weather, it was not approached till monday, the 16th. It proved to be a large island, which was named "South Georgia, stretching from N.W. to S.E. Off the N.W. point, which was called Cape North, lay two small isles; one of which was named Willis's Isle, after the person who first saw it; the other, Bird Isle, from the vast number of birds on it. The former is a high rock, situated in lat. 54° S., long. 38° 23'. W. Passing between these isles, our navigator ranged along the N.E. side of the island, and on the 17th, entering an extensive bay, where vessels might be sheltered from all winds, he landed with Mr. Forster and his party, at three different places, and hoisting the British colours, took possession of the country in his Majesty's name, under a discharge of small arms. From this ceremony, the place was called Possession Bay.
The country, however, did not seem worth owning, being particularly desolate and horrible. In the interior, the wild rocks raised their lofty summits, till they were lost in the clouds, and the valleys lay deeply covered with everlasting snow. The very sides and craggy tops of the mountains, were cased with snow and ice; while the coast presented an almost continuous wall of perpendicular ice-cliffs, often of great height; and as there was not sufficient heat to melt the ice or the snow, no river, or stream of water, was any where seen. It was dangerous to approach the shore, especially as masses of ice occasionally burst from the cliffs, making a noise like a cannon, and floating out to sea.—No tree could be seen, nor even a shrub big enough to make a tooth pick. The only vegetation met with, consisted of wild burnet, a plant like moss, and some coarse grass growing in tufts.—Animal life was less rare: for seals, or sea-bears, were numerous; and sea birds, of various sorts, abounded; among which were flocks of very large penguins, some weighing from 29 to 38 lb. each. Quantities of seals and penguins were taken on board for food; the ship's company, officers as well as men, being now so heartily tired of salt provisions, that fresh meat of any kind was preferred to salt beef and pork.
To the south and east of this bay, several other bays and capes were observed and named, on the 18th, and 19th. At the S.E. point of the main land, a small isle was found, which was called Cooper's Isle. Round this our navigator sailed, on the 20th; when advancing towards the south west, he came to a point which he named Cape Disappointment; because here he saw, from the direction of the coast, and from objects observed towards the other extremity of the land, near Willis's Isle, that this icy region which he had discovered, was no part of a southern continent, as he had fancied, but only an island, about 70 leagues in circuit, being 31 leagues long, and about 10 in its greatest breadth.
New land having been observed towards the S.E., in passing Cooper's Isle, he now returned to visit it; but encountering a violent storm, and then a succession of thick fogs, this land was not distinctly seen till tuesday, the 24th; when it was found to consist of a few straggling rocks, which were named Clerke's Rocks, as Lieut. Clerke had first discerned them.
The atmosphere clearing up next day, our navigator steered to the S. and S.E.; and though his progress was impeded by frequent fogs, he found himself on the 28th, in lat. 60° 4' S., long. 29° 23' W. Here he met with numbers of large icebergs, and a sea strewed with loose ice, and the weather at the same time being thick and hazy, he could not advance farther south; but moved about in various directions, as the winds, icebergs, and fogs permitted, till tuesday, the 31st, when, in standing N.N.E., the fog cleared away, and land was seen ahead, only three or four miles distant. This land, of which several portions were seen in succession, and which was thought to be of considerable extent, was named Sandwich Land. The Resolution was now approaching three high rocky islets, the outermost of which, terminating in a lofty peak like a sugar-loaf, was named Freezeland Peak, after the man who first discovered it. The elevated coast that rose behind, whose lofty snowclad summits were seen above the clouds, was called Cape Bristol. To the south there appeared another elevated coast, which was designated the Southern Thule, as being the most southerly land yet discovered. In steering towards it, the latitude observed was 59° 13' 30" S., longitude 27° 45' W. Some thought they saw land in the space between Thule and Cape Bristol, and the deep bay intervening was called Forster's Bay. The Captain attempted to proceed southward, to examine this new country; but unable to weather Thule, he tacked and stood to the north; and the wind having fallen, while a great westerly swell with a hazy atmosphere prevailed, and no bottom could be found with a line of 200 fathoms, the ship was in danger of driving against the horrid ice-cliffs of Cape Bristol; and all on board were glad when they found themselves so far to the north of this cape, that no land was seen to the eastward. Next morning, another lofty snow-clad promontory was seen, which obtained the name Cape Montagu, lying 7 or 8 leagues north of Cape Bristol, and supposed to be also part of the same country, land having been discerned in more than one spot in the intermediate space. On thursday, February 2nd, another coast was seen, about 13 leagues farther north, and was called Saunders Isle; although it was thought possible, that this coast also might belong to Sandwich Land. On the same day, two small isles were discovered, and named Candlemas Isles, lying in lat. 57° 11' S., long 27° 6' W.
These isles were the last of our navigator's discoveries in this dreary region. He was strongly inclined to think, that Sandwich Land might be part of a southern continent; for the cold here was much more intense, and the ice in far greater quantity, than in the same parallel in the South Pacific; which he could only account for by supposing, that the track of land near the south pole, where the ice of that region is formed, extends much farther to the north, in the direction of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, than towards the Pacific. Anxious to explore every thing, he would gladly have ascertained, whether these forbidding coasts belonged to a group of islands, or to a southern continent; but many considerations induced him to give up the attempt. The country, instead of inviting research, presented an aspect inexpressibly horrid. The land was buried in everlasting snow and ice, where the warmth of the solar rays was never felt; the coast had no sandy beach, or place of safe anchorage, but was faced with frowning perpendicular ice-cliffs, which it was dangerous to approach; a danger that was much increased by dense fogs, squally winds, and heavy snow showers. "The ports which may be on the coast, are in a manner wholly filled up with frozen snow of vast thickness; but if any should be so far open as to invite a ship into it, she would run a risk of being fixed there for ever, or of coming out in an ice island." He justly adds, "It would have been rashness in me, to have risked all that had been done during the voyage, in discovering and exploring a coast, which, when discovered and explored, would have answered no end whatever, or have been of the least use, either to navigation or geography, or indeed to any other science." Besides, the worn-out condition of the sails and rigging of the ship, the decayed state of the provisions on board, and above all, the long continued hardships and privations of the brave men under his command, forbade him to persevere in such hazardous and fruitless researches. On this subject, the following passage in his journal does equal credit to his own humane feelings, and to the conduct of his officers and crew. "My people, indeed, were yet healthy, and would have cheerfully gone wherever I had thought proper to lead them; but I dreaded the scurvy laying hold of them, at a time when we had nothing left to remove it. I must say, further, that it would have been cruel in me, to have continued the fatigues and hardships they were continually exposed to, longer than was absolutely necessary. Their behaviour, throughout the whole voyage, merited. every indulgence which it was in my power to give them. Animated by the conduct of the officers, they shewed themselves capable of surmounting every difficulty and danger that came in their way, and never once looked either upon the one or the other, as being at all heightened, by our separation from our consort the Adventure."
For these reasons, the Captain, instead of renewing his attempt to get to the south of Thule, contented himself with steering towards the S.E., to see if he could fall in with the land in that direction; and having reached 58° 15' S. latitude, without seeing any land, or any token of its being near, he altered his course, and stood to the eastward, to search once more for Cape Circumcision. This search, like that of Capt. Furneaux the year before, proved fruitless; no such land could be found in the place assigned; and besides the disappointment, our mariners, in this part of their voyage, suffered much from intense cold, violent gales, and dreadful showers of snow and sleet; which did considerable damage to the sails and rigging. Sometimes the quantity of snow lodged in the sails was so great, that it was necessary to throw the ship up in the wind, to shake it out of them, otherwise neither they nor the ship could have supported the weight. Tired with such severe and unprofitable service, Capt. Cook gave up the thoughts which he had entertained, of looking for the recent French discoveries; yet, in making for the Cape of Good Hope, he resolved to take the isles of Denia and Marseveen in his way; but the winds proving unfavourable, and the weather stormy, he was obliged to pass on, and on friday, March 17th, came in sight of the African coast. At this time, pursuant to his instructions, he required the officers of every rank to deliver up their journals and log-books, which were accordingly received and sealed up, for the inspection of the Admiralty. The officers and crew were also enjoined, not to divulge where they had been, till permitted by their Lordships to do so.
Next day, our navigators fell in with a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. The master, Capt. Bosch, very obligingly offered them sugar, arrack, and other supplies. From some Englishmen on board, our people learned, that the Adventure had arrived at the Cape a year before, and that the crew of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the New Zealanders. On the day following, the True Briton, Capt. Broadly, from China, bore down to the Resolution. Capt. Broadly confirmed the accounts received the day before, and liberally sent on board a most acceptable supply of fresh provisions, tea, and other articles; together with a parcel of old newspapers, which to persons who had been so long from home were highly interesting.
The Resolution anchored in Table Bay, on wednesday, March 22nd, which at the Cape was only tuesday the 21st, a day having been gained by circumnavigating the globe. Here Capt. Cook received a letter left for him by Capt. Furneaux, detailing the particulars of his voyage after parting from the Resolution. Capt. Newte, of the Ceres East India-man, being ready to sail for England, the Captain sent by him a copy of his journal, with some charts and drawings, to the Admiralty, to whom he had already written by Capt. Broadly.
On the arrival of the Resolution, the usual salutations were exchanged, and the Governor, Baron Plettenberg, received our navigators with great politeness. The scientific gentlemen, and most of the officers, took lodgings on shore; while the Captain took care to send fresh bread, meat, greens, and wine, to those who remained on board. Only three men required to be brought on shore, to recruit their health. The repairing of the ship was also promptly attended to. The rigging was so bad, that almost every thing, except the standing rigging, required to be replaced with new articles, which were purchased at a most exorbitant price. It was not surprising, that the rigging, sails, &c., were worn out, the vessel having sailed no less than 20,000 leagues since her departure from the Cape; an extent of voyage never performed in the same space of time by any ship before, being nearly equal to three times the equatorial circumference. of the earth! And so well did the Resolution accomplish this long run, under the care of Providence, and the skilful management of our mariners, that they sprung neither low-mast, topmast, lower nor top-sail yard, nor so much as broke a lower or top-mast shroud.
Here our great navigator met with Capt. Crozet, who was second in command under Capt. Marion, who sailed hence with two French ships in 1772. Capt. Marion and some of his people had been unfortunately killed by the New Zealanders, in the Bay of Islands. Crozet, who succeeded to the command, returned with the two ships to the Mauritius, by way of the Philippine Isles. He obligingly communicated to Capt. Cook a chart, in which were delineated his own discoveries, and those of Capt. Kerguelen; as also the track of Capt. Surville, who had crossed the Pacific in 1769, and had put into Doubtful Bay, in New Zealand, where he seems to have been when the Endeavour passed it. He was drowned in going on shore, in the port of Callao.
Capt. Cook was also respectfully treated by the Dutch, Spanish, and Danish Captains, whom he met with at the Cape; and he who had done so much for the interests of navigation, was well entitled to the esteem and regard of his brother mariners of all nations.
Having got every thing on board, and taken leave of the Governor, and other principal officers at the Cape, our navigator sailed, on thursday, April 27th, in company with the Dutton Indiaman, Capt. Rice. On the 16th of May, he anchored at St. Helena, where also he was treated with much respect and sailing hence, on the 21st, arrived at Ascension Island, on the 28th. At both islands, observations were made by the Captain and Mr. Wales, for determining the longitude. For the same object, after remaining three days at Ascension, where they caught 24 turtle, our navigators steered for the Portuguese Island of Fernando de Noronha, on the coast of Brazil, and arrived there on friday, June 9th. Having ascertained the longitude of a remarkable peaked hill on the island to be 321/2° W., the latitude 3° 53' S., they returned without coming to an anchor, or even communicating with the shore, and made for the Azores. On the passage, they tried the experiment of procuring fresh water by distillation; and succeeded in obtaining 32 gallons of fresh water, at the expense of a bushel and a half of coals. The Captain regarded this as a useful invention, but could not advise any one to trust wholly to it; especially as he considered a plentiful supply of fresh water essentially necessary for preserving the health of seamen.
On the 14th of July, the Resolution anchored in the bay of Fayal, where Mr. Dent, the English consul, entertained the Captain and his friends with great politeness. Some refreshments were procured here for the ship's company, and nautical observations made, as usual. Mr. Wales set up his observatory in Mr. Dent's garden, and by his observations, and those of the Captain on board, the latitude was found to be 38° 31' 55" N., the longitude, 28° 38' 56" W.
On wednesday, the 19th, our navigators sailed from the Azores, and passing St. George's Island, and Terceira, made sail for England, where they anchored at Spithead, on the 30th. On the same day, the Captain, with Messrs. Wales, Forsters, and Hodges, landed at Portsmouth, and set out for London; having been absent from England three years and eighteen days, during which he had lost but four men, and only one from sickness.
After recapitulating the methods which he had so successfully employed, for preserving the health of his people, and glancing at the principal objects accomplished by the voyage, he closes his journal with the following important remarks:
"But whatever may be the public judgment about other matters, it is with real satisfaction, and without claiming any merit but that of attention to my duty, that I can conclude this Account with an observation which facts enable me to make, that our having discovered the possibility of preserving health among a numerous ship's company, for such a length of time, in such varieties of climate, and amidst such continued hardships and fatigues, will make this Voyage remarkable in the opinion of every benevolent person, when the disputes about a Southern Continent shall have ceased to engage the attention, and to divide the judgment of philosophers."