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The Life and Voyages of Captain James Cook/Chapter 20

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CHAPTER XX.

Kind reception at Tongataboo. The King's son and other chiefs introduced. Grand entertainment, with dances, and other festivities, given by Mareewagee. Poulaho's grand entertainment and exhibition. Solemnity of the natche, in honour of the prince. Mourning ceremonies. Cruel rites. Tyranny of the chiefs. Seeds sown, and cattle left here. Singular uses of Poulaho's wooden bowl. Eclipse observed. Arrival at Eooa. Beauty of the island. Cattle left, and seeds sown. Taoofa's entertainment, interrupted by an outrage committed by some natives. General observations on the Friendly Isles, and other islands adjacent. Toobouai discovered. Arrival at Oaitipiha Bay, in Otaheite. Omai's reception, and imprudence. Visit to Otaheite by Spanish ships. Pretended god of Bolabola. Another Waheatua, King of Tiarabu. Arrival at Matavai. Friendly meeting with Otoo, and his people; and with Oedidee. Cattle and fowls landed. Garden planted. War with Eimeo. Human sacrifices offered, with much ceremony. Conference with Towha. Feasts and amusements. Presents. Naval warfare of the Tahitians. Peace with Eimeo; solemnities on the occasion. Omai's behaviour. Otoo's present to King George. Good treatment experienced at Otaheite.


Captain Cook having landed, on the 10th, with Omai and some of the officers, found the King waiting for them on the beach. He conducted them to a neat house, within the skirts of the wood, with a large area before it; them to occupy it during their stay. a large circle of natives, who sat quietly on the area, a bowl of kava was prepared, and a baked hog, and two baskets of baked yams, were brought forward, for the entertainment of the King, his guests, and attendants. Most of the latter, not being allowed to eat and drink in his presence, retired with their portions out of the circle. Every thing was conducted with the greatest decorum.

Adjoining to this house, a tent and observatory were erected next day, the cattle were brought on shore, and a guard of marines stationed here; arrangements were made for procuring wood and water, and repairing the sails: and to superintend all these affairs, as well as to conduct the nautical observations, Lieut. King took up his residence on shore.

On the 13th, the Captain and his friends were introduced to two chiefs of rank, who were brothers, named Toobou and Mareewagee. The latter was the Queen's father: Feenou, and another chief called Tooboueitoa, were his sons. Young Futtafaihe, the King's son, was also introduced to the strangers. An exchange of presents took place at every new introduction, and at successive visits of the same chiefs. The introductions on shore generally took place under a canopy, or under the shade of a tree, where the chief was seated, with his presents of cloth or provisions for the visistors, spread before him. Poulaho frequently dined on board, where he enjoyed his bottle of wine with the officers. He was found to be a very convenient guest, as no one of the natives presumed to sit down at meat with him; whereas, in his absence, the table was often much crowded. His son, whc often came on board, received the same homage from Mareewagee and other chiefs, as was paid to Poulaho himself. In some of the visits paid to the ships, the chiefs would taste nothing, alleging that they were taboo, that is, under some religious or superstitious restriction.

In the visits paid by our navigators to the chiefs on shore, they were sometimes entertained with dances, songs, instrumental music, and single combats, similar to what Feenou furnished at Hapace. One of these grand festivals was given on the 17th, by Mareewagee; who, at the same time, presented two large heaps of provisions, one for each Captain. The dances, which were much diversified, were kept up from eleven o'clock, till near three. At different intervals between the dances, champions entered the ring, brandishing their clubs. Feenou, Mareewagee, and old Futtafaihe, the King's brother, beat some of the drums, and took part in the dances. Above 4000 people were computed to be present, besides about as many more collected at the trading place, or straggling about the neighbourhood. Brilliant night dances, like those at Hapaee, succeeded the amusements of the day, and were kept up for nearly three hours.

Next day, the Captain gave Mareewagee liberal presents, in return for his donations; and entertained him and his friends, including Poulaho and the principal chiefs, by making the marines go through their exercise, and exhibiting a display of fire-works in the evening. Before the latter commenced, the natives went through their exercise also, in various boxing and wrestling matches, conducted with much spirit, and at the same time with good humour.

On the 21st, Poulaho gave his grand entertainment; at the commencement of which, he raised two immense piles of provisions, supported by posts 30 feet high, being resolved to exceed the liberality of Feenou at Hapaee. The sports were of the same kind as before, concluding with night dances, in which Poulaho himself took a part. Capt. Cook dined on shore that day, to see the whole exhibition; and had at his table a lady of high rank, sister to the grave Areekee, Latooliboula; and Poulaho could neither eat nor drink in her presence, but did obeisance to her as his superior, while her attendants did obeisance to him. She and her brother, with another sister, were children of the elder sister of Poulaho's father, by a Feejee chief.

A little before their departure, our navigators had an opportunity of witnessing a grand solemnity called natche, performed in honour of the King's son, a boy about twelve years old, on occasion of his being admitted for the first time to the privilege of eating with his father. The ceremonies, which lasted two days, began at a kind of palace, called a malaee (or marly, as Mariner writes it), being a great house with an extensive grass-plot before it. Here a crowd assembled, some armed, and others bearing yams, &c.; solemn sentences were recited, or chanted; the King and prince having arrived, seated themselves in the area, with several friends, while the bearers of the yams, and others, to the number of 250, made a procession to a fiatooka (or morai), of one house standing upon a mount; and after depositing part of their load, proceeded to another fiatooka of three houses. At these places of worship and of burial, belonging to the royal family, various ceremonies were performed, and some orations, or prayers, were uttered. At one of them, a shed was erected for the prince, and his father sat near him: and after some females had wrapped narrow pieces of white cloth round him, and other honours done him, a grand procession came from the other morai, as of persons bearing tribute, who deposited their pretended burdens before the prince, while they prostrated themselves on the grass. Instead of real yams, &c. they brought only artificial representations of them.

Capt. Cook and his friends were not allowed to be present at the fiatooka; but they witnessed the ceremonies there, by peeping through the fence of the King's plantation. Eager to observe also the proceedings of next day, the Captain and two or three of the officers, spent the night with the King, who supped with them, and partook freely of their brandy and water. Early in the morning, one of his female attendants tapped, or beat gently, on his thighs, with her clenched fists, a process which was found to be used for promoting sleep. The prince slept at another house, where the Captain and Omai found him in the morning, with a circle of boys sitting before him. The Captain presented him with cloth, beads, and other ornaments; with which he was forthwith arrayed, and was very proud of his new dress. The chiefs, according to their usual practice, spent a good part of the morning in preparing and drinking kava; after which His Majesty had another nap, the process of tapping being performed on him by two women. When it was past noon, Captain Cook, who had walked about, visiting different chiefs, aroused the drowsy monarch to dinner, of which he partook heartily.

In the afternoon the ceremonies were resumed, and the Captain, resolving, if possible, to be present, walked towards the morai, although he was several times desired to go back. After he had sat down in the midst of the company, he was repeatedly ordered to depart; but the natives at last consented to his remaining, on condition of his uncovering his shoulders, as they did; and Omai, who had got into another part of the crowd, was permitted to be present on the same terms. Yet, in some parts of the solemnity, they were not allowed to look around them, but were forced to sit with downcast looks, and demure as maids.

During the assembling of the crowd, several short addresses were given, some of which produced laughter, and others applause; but after the arrival of the royal party, order and solemnity were observed. The prince was placed under the shed, where two men put pieces of mat about him, and afterwards uttered a short speech or prayer: companies moved backward and forward across the area, as was done the day before; and three different processions arrived, bearing tribute; the first with cocoa-nut leaves, to represent cocoa-nuts; the second with empty baskets, to represent baskets of plantains or other fruits; and the third with small fishes, the only real tribute presented, each fixed at the end of a forked stick. The whole were received, with much ceremony, by men who sat on the right and left of the prince; and the fishes were snatched at by a person sitting behind, and when the latter, with some difficulty, succeeded in snatching a whole fish, the crowd around muttered mareeai—"well done", upon which he desisted from grasping at any more. After some speaking, or praying, the whole company started up, at a given signal, except the royal party, and retiring some paces, sat down with their backs to the prince. The Captain was forbidden to look behind; yet he ventured to transgress, and saw that the prince had turned his face towards the morai. He could not see what he was doing; but afterwards learned, that at this moment he was admitted to the high honour of eating with his father, a piece of roasted yam being presented to each of them for this purpose. A little time after, the company faced about, and formed a circle in front of the prince; several champions entered the area, wrestling and boxing matches were kept up for about half an hour; two men, sitting before the prince, then delivered addresses, with which the solemnity ended, and the assembly broke up.

The fiatookas where these ceremonies were performed, had both been previously examined, by the Captain and Mr. Anderson. At one of them were two rude wooden busts, said to be memorials of departed chiefs. Near them were numbers of etoa trees, to some of which clung many large ternate bats one of this kind measured nearly three feet, when the wings were extended. Some mourning ceremonies, performed at the fiatookas, by Poulaho and others, on account of relations some time dead, were witnessed. Each mourner put a piece of old mat over his dress, and a small green bough about his neck; and having thrown this down, seated himself before the house, and gave his cheeks a few gentle strokes with the fist. When the death is recent, the blows are often given with such violence as to make the blood flow: hence several persons were seen with scars below their eyes. Poulaho's mourning ended with drinking a bowl of kava.

Had our navigators remained a day longer at Tongataboo, they might have witnessed a funeral ceremony; as the wife of Mareewagee died before the natche, and was to be interred on the day after. The Captain was also informed, that in about three months, the final celebration of the natche would take place on a far grander scale; when tribute would be brought from Hapaee, Vavaoo, and the rest of the islands; and ten human victims, of the lower orders, would be sacrificed! Many other illustrations of the despotic power and cruelty of the chiefs, and the abject slavery of the common people, were observed. When a canoe was wanted for any service, the chiefs seized on the first they met with; quantities of fish were taken out of canoes, without giving the owners any compensation; and the interdict of the great chiefs was found effectual in preventing theft, when they chose to issue their mandate to that effect, and was equally available for recovering what had been stolen. Hence, although pilfering was not uncommon, there were few things of value stolen that were not recovered. Strong measures, however, were sometimes required for that purpose. When part of the live stock was stolen, the Captain put Poulaho, Feenou, and other chiefs under arrest, till this, and other property previously taken, were restored. In one instance only was a thief wounded by a musket shot; and it was a source of great satisfaction to our navigators, that no lives were lost during their stay.

In this isle, as in most of the inhabited isles which he visited, Capt. Cook sowed a quantity of useful garden seeds. The dogs left here in the former voyage, were found to have lived and multiplied, and more had since been imported from the Feejee Islands. To benefit the country further, he now gave to Poulaho, a young English bull and cow, with a he-goat and two she-goats; and to Feenou, a horse and a mare; besides a couple of rabbits, which produced young before the ships sailed. A young boar and three young sows, of the English breed, were also left here. A cape ram and two ewes were set apart for Mareewagee; but as he paid no attention to them, they were taken on board, and afterwards left at Eooa. The chiefs were informed, through Omai, of the great value of these animals, the trouble and expense of bringing them such a distance, the importance of refraining from killing them till they were multiplied, and the duty of remembering that they were indebted for them to the English nation.

Among the numerous presents made to Poulaho, was a pewter plate, which he purposed to apply to very singular uses. When he had occasion to visit any other island, he left something to represent him at Tongataboo, to which the people paid the same obeisance as to himself; and whereas this honour had hitherto been conferred on a wooden bowl in which he washed his hands, he would now put the pewter plate in its stead. The bowl had likewise been employed to detect theft, by a curious sort of ordeal. When any thing was stolen, and the thief not discovered, an assembly was held, at which the King washed his hands in water in this vessel; and after it was cleaned, the whole multitude came forward, one by one, to do obeisance to it, as they did usually to his feet. If the guilty person presumed to touch it, he was expected to die immediately by the hand of Providence; so that the individual who refused to touch it, through fear of instant death, was known to be the thief. In this important service also, the plate was to be substituted for the wooden bowl.

Many excursions were made into the country by Mr. Anderson and others, and much valuable information obtained, concerning the natural productions of the island. The Captain, as usual, paid much attention to the survey of the coast, and of the adjacent isles. On saturday, the 5th of July, an eclipse of the sun occurred, but the weather being cloudy, it was observed imperfectly. The latitude of the place was found, by other observations, to be 21° 8' 19" S., its longitude, 184° 55' 18" E.

In the morning of thursday, the 10th, the day after the natche, the ships set sail from Tongataboo; but they did not get clear of the island till next day, and on the 12th, they anchored at Eooa, in English Road. Here Taoofa, the chief, the Captain's Tayo in his former voyage (then named Tioony), received him and his friends joyfully; a friendly trade was carried on with the people, and the chief was proud to accept of the tam and ewes, which Mareewagee had slighted.

This island being much higher than those last visited, presents more delightful landscapes; and a party who ascended the hills, on the 13th, enjoyed its beautiful scenery. The feelings expressed by the Captain, on looking down from an eminence on the lovely plains, meadows, and groves below, illustrate the benevolence of his heart. "While I was surveying this delightful prospect, I could not help flattering myself with the pleasing idea, that some future navigator may, from the same station, behold these meadows stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by the ships of England; and that the completion of this single benevolent purpose, independently of all other considerations, would sufficiently mark to posterity, that our voyages had not been useless to the general interests of humanity." Next day, he planted a pine-apple, and sowed various seeds, in the chief's plantation; and had the pleasure of enjoying at dinner a dish of turnips, from seed sown in his last voyage.

On the 16th, Taoofa honoured his visitors, in the same way as Feenou and Poulaho had done, but on a smaller scale. Two piles of provisions were deposited, a public assembly was held, and single combats were exhibited. The night dance which should have followed, was prevented by an unexpected occurrence. One of our people taking a short walk by himself, was surrounded, knocked down, and stripped, by 20 or 30 natives: and the Captain, when informed of this outrage, immediately seized two canoes and a large hog, and insisted on Taoofa's getting the clothes restored, and the offenders delivered up to be punished. One of the culprits was presently secured, and part of the clothes restored: the rest were brought next morning, though torn and useless; upon which Capt. Cook released the canoes and the criminal, and paid for the hog. He also gave Tacofa a present, which pleased him greatly, and which he shared with three or four other chiefs; one of whom told the donor that they did not deserve it, considering how ill they had used one of his people, and how little they had given him. A present of iron was also sent to Poulaho, by one of his servants, as a parting mark of regard.

The ships had scarcely left their anchorage, when a canoe arrived from that monarch, begging that our people would remain at Eooa, as he and other chiefs were coming to visit them there in two days, to supply them with more provisions. A small canoe came off to them with the message; but as the ships had got clear of the land, and were furnished with abundant supplies, Captain Cook resolved to proceed on his voyage. The natives came off and traded with our people, as long as the ships were within reach.

The land at Eooa is, for the most part, the property of the great chiefs of Tongataboo; the inhabitants being their tenants or vassals. Feenou offered to make Omai the chief of this island, if he would stay there; but Capt. Cook disapproved of the measure.—During the stay of our people here, they witnessed the infliction of a severe punishment on a native who had been detected in criminal intercourse with the wife of a person of higher rank. His head was dreadfully cut, and his thigh broken, with a club; and he was carried into a house, almost lifeless.

During his stay at the friendly Isles, which lasted between two and three months, our navigator, assisted by Mr. Anderson and other officers, collected much important information, concerning the islands and their inhabitants; the persons, character, dress, and manners of the people; their manufactures and employments, their amusements and ceremonies, their religion and language. His estimate of their character is far too high: he witnessed but little of their treachery and cruelty, and his own kind and open disposition led him to view their actions in the most favourable light. In stating the number of islands dependant on Tongataboo at 150, or more, he does not exaggerate: it is now known, that the Vavaoo group alone, consists of about 100, the largest of which, bearing the name Vavaoo in its more restricted application, is about half the size of Tongataboo. In noticing the Hamoa and Feejee Islands, he correctly states, that the inhabitants of the latter, some of whom he saw at Tongataboo, are cannibals. It is melancholy to add, that in some of the civil wars that raged here after the assassination of Toogahowe, the horrid practice of cannibalism was adopted, both by Feenou's party, and by their opponents.

Departing from Eooa, on thursday, July 17th, our navigators proceeded to the eastward. On the 21st, they observed an eclipse of the moon; and on the 29th, they encountered a heavy squall, during which the Discovery lost her main-top-mast. On friday, August 8th, they saw land, which was found next day to be a small island of considerable height, called Toobouai, in lat. 23° 25' S., long. 210° 37' E. Some natives came off in canoes, and pointed to the shore, which was considered as an invitation to land. They declined Omai's urgent request to come alongside, and the Captain, having a fair wind, declined their invitation. One of them was blowing a conch-shell. They had no covering but a belt and wrapper; but several persons on the shore were clothed in white.

On the 12th, Maitea was seen, and soon after Otaheite; where the ships arrived off Oaitipha Bay, in which they anchored next morning. As the ships approached the land, several natives came off in canoes; among others, a chief named Ootee, Omai's brother-in-law, who shewed great indifference in meeting with him, till Omai took him down into the cabin, and opening the drawer in which his red feathers were kept, gave him a few. Upon this, every one was ready to beg the honour of being Omai's tayo, for the sake of such treasures, which he thoughtlessly lavished among persons who could do him no service, notwithstanding the kind and repeated admonitions of the Captain. His meeting with his sister, however, who came on board to see him, was marked with expressions of the most tender affection; as was also his first interview with his mother's sister on shore.

Before the ships were moored, Captain Cook learned, that since his last visit, in 1774, two ships, which were found to have been Spanish, had been twice in this bay; and had left a bull, and some hogs, dogs, and goats. They came from a place which the natives called Reema, being no doubt Lima, in Peru. At their first visit, they built a house, the frame work of which appeared to have been brought with them; and left here two priests, a servant boy, and a person named Mateema. Their Commodore, whom the natives named Oreede, died, and was buried near the house. At their departure, they took with them four natives, two of whom died at Lima; the other two returned with them at their second visit, which was after the lapse of about ten months; when they made a short stay, and then took away their own people, leaving the house and the cattle. Captain Cook, soon after he landed, visited the house, which was divided into two rooms, and contained a table, a bench, and other articles; which the natives had taken great care of, and of the house itself, over which they had built a shed, to protect it. At the grave, in front of the house, stood a wooden cross, on the transverse part of which were cut these words, Christus vincit; and on the perpendicular part, Carolus III. imperat. 1774. To commemorate the prior visits of the English, Captain Cook inscribed on the other side of the post, Georgius tertius Rex, Annis 1767, 1769, 1773, 1774, & 1777.

The Spaniards did not appear to have used any means for converting the Tahitians; but they had taken great pains to ingratiate themselves with them, and had acquired, in no small degree, their esteem and regard. Mateema, in particular, had studied their language, so as to converse with them; and had gone through most of the island, endeavouring by various false statements, to exalt the Spaniards, and to depreciate the British. He represented Britain as a small island, which the Spaniards had entirely destroyed; and stated that they had met Captain Cook, and with a few shots had sunk his ship, and all on board. Yet they did not all concur in this story; for some of the natives at this place informed our navigator, that the men of Reema had desired them not to suffer him to come into the bay, if he should ever return. They seem to have come hither soon after he left Otaheite, in 1774; and it is possible, that the report which reached him at Ulietea, of the arrival of two ships at Huaheine, may have had its origin in their arrival at Otaheite.—The two natives who had visited Lima, were still in the island. Capt. Cook met with one of them at Matavai: he had resumed his native dress, but retained a little of Spanish politeness, with a few words of the language, badly pronounced; particularly, si Sennor, "yes, Sir." He was treated kindly, yet never made his appearance again; and it was suspected that Omai had, through jealousy, kept him back. The latter disliked the idea, that there should be any other traveller to rival him; and he prided himself in the reflection, that having touched at Teneriffe, he had visited a Spanish settlement, as well as this man. Captain Clerke saw the other adventurer, and found him to be a low fellow, a little out of his senses. Both of them were regarded by their countrymen with indifference.

The news, that red feathers could be procured on board the Resolution and Discovery, soon attracted a crowd of visitors, bringing hogs and fruit to market. At first, a few feathers, not greater than what might be got from a tom-tit, would purchase a hog of 40 or 50lb. weight; but so many on board were possessed of this precious article, that its value soon fell 500 per cent. Abundant supplies, however, were purchased for both ships; and it was now very prudently proposed to the crews of both, to take cocoa-nut liquor, in lieu of their usual allowance of grog, that they might not run the risk of being without spirits in exploring the arctic regions, where such a cordial would be most wanted. This salutary proposal was promptly agreed to, and the result is thus noted by the Captain: "Accordingly we stopped serving grog, except on saturday nights; when the companies of both ships had full allowance of it, that they might drink the healths of their female friends in England; lest these, amongst the pretty girls of Otaheite, should be wholly forgotten."

On the day when he landed, Capt. Cook paid a visit to a singular personage, a fame old man, named Etary, who pretended to be Olla, or Orra, the god of Bolabola. Some young plantain trees had been laid before him, and upon the awning under which he sat: in other respects, he appeared as an ordinary chief. Another person was met with here, pretending to be divinely inspired, and to utter predictions, or deliver oracles, and hence called an Eatooa. He seemed to be a person of an indifferent character, and not much regarded.

It was not till the 17th, that Waheatua, or Waheiadooa, King of Tiarabu, came to the place, and was waited on by Captain Cook and his friends. This was a young brother of the Waheatua, mentioned in the former voyage, who had died about twenty months before the arrival of the ships. His tupapow, that is, the shed, or awning, where his body still lay in state, in a reclining posture, was found by some of the gentlemen, in their walks, and mistaken for a Roman Catholic chapel. Two men constantly guarded the place, and no stranger was permitted to enter within the pallisades that inclosed it. The young prince, now visited, was but twelve years old, and was accompanied by his mother; a chief named Etorea, his tutor; with Etary, and others. He had sent a present of two hogs, and the Captain now made him presents in return; and after some speechifying, in which Omai bore a part, a treaty of friendship was ratified, the King and the Captain embracing each other, and exchanging names; and then going on board together to dine. The prince afterwards sent another present of ten or twelve hogs, with a quantity of fruit, and cloth.

Omai at the visit paid to Waheatua, wore a dress, neither English nor Tahitian, but forming a strange medley of all that he possessed. He had prepared a maro, or girdle, of red and yellow feathers, of very great value, intended as a present for Otoo. The Captain advised him to keep it on board, till he could give it to Otoo in person: but he foolishly resolved to hand it to Waheatua, to be forwarded to Otoo as an addition to the royal maro, supposing that thus he would oblige both chiefs. But a prize so valuable was too tempting for Waheatua and his friends; only a small part of the feathers was sent to Otoo: and hence, the effect of the present was completely lost; for Waheatua felt little or no gratitude, and Otoo, whose favour was of more consequence, was highly offended.

Having parted with their friends in Tiarabu, our navigators sailed out of the bay, in the morning of the 23rd, and arrived at Matavai in the evening. Next morning, Capt. Cook landed with Omai, and found King Otoo waiting there, attended by his father, his two brothers, and three sisters, with an immense concourse of people. Omai was dressed in his best, and behaved well; he gave the King, whom he respectfully saluted, a large piece of red feathers, and two or three yards of gold cloth; while the Captain gave him a suit of fine linen, a gold-laced hat, some tools, a quantity of red feathers, and one of the rich royal bonnets, used at the Friendly Isles. The royal party went on board with the Captain, followed by canoes laden with their presents, consisting of provisions of all kinds, sufficient to serve the people of both ships for a week. The King's mother afterwards came on board, with a quantity of provisions and cloth, which she divided between the Captain and Omai. The latter was little noticed, till it was known that he was rich.

Among those who met Capt. Cook at Matavai, was his affectionate friend Oedidee, or Heete-heete, called also Mahine, by Mr. Forster. He had arrived here three months before, and was glad to meet his English friends; whose language and manners he had not entirely forgotten, although he preferred his native dress. The Captain gave him a chest of tools, with some clothes sent him by the Admiralty; but the latter, after a few days, he declined wearing. During the stay of the ships here, he gave a dinner on shore to his English friends, and some Tahitian chiefs; as Omai also did. King Otoo was of the party, at both dinners.

The most valuable presents brought hither by our navigator, consisted of live stock, which he felt great pleasure in bringing ashore, and committing to Otoo. The poultry he took to Oparre, the King's usual residence; consisting of a peacock and hen, a present from Lord Besborough; a turkey cock and hen; a drake, and four ducks; a gander, and three geese: besides which, there was here the old gander, which Captain Wallis gave Oberea ten years before. The Spanish bull was here, tied to a tree near Otoo's house; a very fine animal and three cows were now sent to him. As the bull belonged to Etary, who proposed to take it to Bolabola, another was left at Matavai, with a horse and mare, and some sheep. The Spanish goats had multiplied, and several of them belonged to Otoo. The geese and ducks began to breed before the ships sailed.—A new garden was cleared, and many vegetables were planted: melons, potatoes, and pine-apples seemed to thrive; and shaddock trees, brought from the Friendly Islands. The Spaniards had planted a vine at Oaitipiha; but the natives, trying the fruit when unripe, thought it poisonous, and trode it down. Yet it was not wholly destroyed; and Omai, who told them of their mistake, took some slips to carry with him.—Captains Cook and Clerke took a ride on horseback for the first time, on the 14th of Sept., and continued this exercise daily during the rest of their stay; to the great surprise and amazement of the natives, who gazed on them with wonder, as if they had been centaurs. Nothing had hitherto given them higher ideas of the power and greatness of Europeans.

The Captain was visited at Matavai by great numbers of his old friends, all of whom brought presents; so that more provisions were obtained than could well be made use of: at the same time, there was no apprehension of exhausting the island, which every where exhibited tokens of the most exuberant plenty.—The celebrated Oberea was now dead. Tee, the King's uncle, had also been dead about four months. The elegant tupapow, where his body was preserved at Oparre, was visited by the Captain, though he was not permitted to go within the pales. The body had undergone a process of embalming; and being rubbed over with cocoa-nut oil, and other substances, was but little changed. The features were not much altered, the joints were quite pliable, and no disagreeable smell was felt. "Oamo, the husband of Oberea, died at the time the ships were leaving Otaheite.

About a week after the arrival of our people at Matavai, tidings came from Eimeo, that the inhabitants were in arms, and that Otoo's party had been worsted. The formidable armament preparing in 1774, when Captain Cook was last here, had not succeeded in subjugating that island; and the quarrel between the two islands seemed to have subsisted ever since. A council was now held, at which the Captain was present; and after a noisy debate among the chiefs, the party for war prevailed. The Captain was urged to assist in the war, but refused, on the ground that the people of Eimeo had never offended him. He was desirous to bring about an accommodation between the contending parties, and afterwards spoke to the King's father on the subject, but found him bent on prosecuting the war.

Towha, the great naval commander of 1774, who was not at the council, was still more resolute. Early on monday morning, September 1st, he sent word to Otoo, that he had killed a man to be offered in sacrifice to the Eatooa, viz. to Oro, the the god of war, at the great morai at Attahooroo. The King's presence being necessary at the offering of a human sacrifice, he set out immediately, with the Captain, in his boat; accompanied by Potatou, and Messrs. Anderson and Webber; Omai following in a canoe. At a small island in their way, they met with Towha and his retinue; who gave Otoo a small tuft of red feathers, and put on board a lean dog for sacrifice, and a priest. On arriving at Attahooroo, Otoo desired that the seamen should remain in the boat, and that the gentlemen should take off their hats at the morai. The human victim, partly wrapped up in cocoa leaves and small branches, was in a small canoe on the beach, with two priests and their attendants; while other priests and their attendants were at the morai. Otoo having placed himself about 20 or 30 paces from the priests, one of the attendants laid a young plantain tree before him, and another touched his feet with a tuft of red feathers. A priest at the morai then made a long prayer; and sent down, at intervals, young plantain trees, which were laid on the sacrifice. The priests then left the morai, and sat down with those on the beach; taking with them two bundles, one containing the royal maro, while in the other was the ark of the Eatooa. Here the prayers were renewed, the plantain trees were removed one by one, the victim was taken out of the canoe, and laid upon the beach, with the feet to the sea; and after farther prayers and ceremonies, was uncovered, and laid parallel to the shore. One of the priests then standing at the feet, made a long prayer, in which the others joined him, each holding a tuft of red feathers and during this prayer, some hair was pulled from the victim's head, and the left eye taken out; both which were presented to Otoo, wrapped up in a green leaf. This seemed to be a relic of cannibalism, being called "eating the man," or "food for the chief:" but though it was held to the King's mouth, it was presently withdrawn, and Otoo returned with it the tuft of feathers received from Towha. The body was now moved nearer the morai, with the head towards it; and here the chief priest spoke for a quarter of an hour, addressing himself to the victim, whom he desired to intercede with Oro for success in the war. He then, with some other priests, chanted a prayer, which lasted half an hour, in a mournful tone; and during this prayer, some hair was plucked from the head of the corpse, and laid on one of the two bundles. He next prayed alone, holding in his hand the tuft of feathers received from Towha; which he handed to another, who prayed after him. The corpse was then removed to the most conspicuous part of the morai; the bundles and feathers were laid against the pile of stones, and two drums were beat slowly. The prayers were again renewed by the priests, while their attendants dug a grave, two feet deep, into which they threw the unhappy victim, and then covered him with earth and stones. At this time a boy squeaked aloud, and repeated his screams at intervals, while the drums were beat very loud. This was understood to be an invitation to the Eatooa to feast on the sacrifice: and now the dog was killed, and its entrails having been thrown into a fire to be consumed, its carcase was laid before the priests, who were praying round the grave; and afterwards laid on a whatta, or scaffold, where the remains of former sacrifices of dogs and hogs lay. Upon this a shout was raised by the priests, which closed the ceremonies of the day.

Next morning the solemnity was renewed; when a pig was sacrificed, and placed on the whatta. After some prayers and ceremonies, another pig was killed; and then the royal maro, a girdle about 5 yards long and 15 inches broad, richly adorned with red and yellow feathers, was taken out of one of the bundles, and displayed before Otoo, at whose feet a young plantain tree had been previously laid: and, a long prayer having been made, the maro was carefully folded up again, and deposited on the morai. The other bundle, containing the emblem of Oro, which our navigator was not allowed to see, was then opened at one end. The entrails of the pig that was last killed, were now spread forth, and carefully examined by the priests, to see if they presented any favourable omen; the examination being accompanied with prayer. The entrails were then thrown into the fire to be consumed, and the carcase was placed on the whatta. The tufts of red feathers that had been used on this occasion, were all shut up in the ark of the Eatooa; and the solemnity finally closed. During this day's service, Otoo was stationed between the two drums, in front of the morai, and the Captain beside him.

Our navigator was duly affected with the horrors of this human sacrifice; more especially as he counted on the stone platform, or low altar, adjoining to the whatta, or elevated altar, no less than 49 skulls of human victims, none of which were so old as to have been injured by time, or by exposure to the weather. The skull of this poor wretch would be taken up from the grave, after the lapse of some months, and make up the number to 50. And this was not the only addition to be made at this time; for, in ten days after, another unfortunate victim, sent by Waheatua, was offered up here; on occasion of Otoo's restoring to the friends of the late Tootaha, the lands and possessions withheld from them since his death. The Captain did not know of this second sacrifice, till it was too late for him to witness it. At the place where the skulls lay, were a number of those upright planks, or pieces of wood, called unus, curiously carved, and used to represent ti's, or spirits.

It was observed, that, during the offering of the human sacrifice, the company present did not manifest that seriousness which might have been expected. Even some of the priests, not immediately engaged, were conversing together, and a great part of the company, instead of attending to the solemnities, were crowding around Omai, to hear him relate his adventures, a task for which he was ever ready. Yet the King seemed to feel a a superstitious awe; for when a kingfisher was making a noise in the trees, during the ceremonies, he said to Captain Cook, "That is the Eatooa." The screaming of a boy, too, when they were burying the human victim, and sacrificing the dog, seemed to impress many with the idea of a present divinity.

During the horrid ceremony, the Captain observed a profound silence; but, in returning home with Otoo, he expressed his detestation of it, to him and his attendants; and afterwards to Towha, whom they again met with at the small island. He told them, that such a cruel sacrifice, instead of propitiating the Deity, would rather draw down his vengeance; and he ventured to predict, that the war with Eimeo would prove unsuccessful; which he could safely anticipate from the disunion of the Tahitians. Omai, who acted as his interpreter, seconded his remonstrances so warmly, that Towha seemed to be in great wrath; and when Omai told him, that had he thus put a man to death in England, his rank would not have protected him from being hanged, he exclaimed, "vile vile;" and would not hear another word. Several natives present, heard Omai's statement with very different feelings. Towha seemed angry with Captain Cook also, because he peremptorily refused to take part in the war.

The evening of this day was spent by Captain Cook and his friends at Otoo's house, where they were entertained with a heeva, or play, in which his three sisters were performers. With such exhibitions our people were often amused; besides being treated with feasts, and plentifully supplied with provisions, in the form of presents; for which, of course, suitable returns were made. On the day when Oedidee gave a dinner, a large present of cloth was sent by Whappai, the King's father, in a most singular way: the cloth was wrapped round two girls in such quantity, that each of them measured five or six yards round, so that it was with difficulty they were conducted on board, along with a quantity of hogs and fruit.

As Captain Cook sometimes entertained the natives with exhibitions of fireworks and military exercises, he was himself entertained with a specimen of their naval manœuvres, and mode of fighting at sea. Two war canoes, the one commanded by Otoo, the other by Omai, went through various movements of advancing and retreating; till at last they closed, and after all the men on the fighting stage in Otoo's vessel were supposed to be killed, Omai's party boarded it, while Otoo and his friends leaped overboard, as if to save their lives: for in their engagements no quarter is given. The strength of these islands lies in their navies, and their decisive battles are fought on the water.

The war with Eimeo, conducted by Towha, Potatow, and other chiefs, was feebly carried on. They sent repeatedly to Otoo for reinforcement, but, on monday, September 22nd, when the King was ready to sail with a large fleet, accompanied by his British friends, who were then ready to put to sea, news came that Towha had made peace with the men of Eimeo, and had returned with his fleet to Attahooroo. He was blamed for making a dishonourable peace, instead of waiting for reinforcements; Whappai, in particular, was vexed at this result, as he wisely judged, that Capt. Cook's accompanying Otoo's fleet to Eimeo, though he took no part in the war, would have been of singular service to their cause. Towha, on the other hand, laid all the blame on Otoo, who had delayed too long to support him. He even threatened, it was said, to attack Otoo in revenge, as soon as Captain Cook should leave the place: to prevent which, the latter openly declared, that whoever presumed to injure his friend, should feel the weight of his displeasure, at his next visit to the island.

Waving their differences, at least for the present, the chiefs resolved to hold a public meeting at the great morai in Attahooroo, to confirm the peace, and acknowledge the god Oro on the occasion: and Towha sent a messenger with a plantain tree to Otoo, to request his attendance. Lieut. King and Omai accompanied him; and they landed at Tettaha, where he and Towha had a good deal of conversation. Next morning much ava was drunk (the kava of the Friendly Isles), and one man was completely intoxicated. Towha had an affecting meeting with his wife and daughter, who cut their heads, and shed both blood and tears; and the girl had to renew her sufferings, on the arrival of Terridiri, Oberea's son.

On reaching Attahooroo with Otoo, our friends saw three canoes hauled up on the beach, with three hogs exposed in each. The intended solemnity, however, was not performed that day; but a chief from Eimeo came with a small pig, and a plantain tree, and placed them at Otoo's feet; after which they had much conversation on the affairs of the two islands.

On wednesday, the 24th, Towha and Potatow, with eight large canoes, landed near the morai; and many plantain trees were presented to Otoo, on the part of different chiefs. The chief priest then brought out the royal maro and the ark of Oro, which were placed at the head of the grave, where a human victim had been buried; while three priests took their station at the foot of the grave. The priests then pronounced various sentences, and sung a melancholy ditty; and when they had sung and prayed about an hour, the chief priest, after a short prayer, uncovered the maro; and Otoo, rising up, wrapped it about him, holding also in his hand a cap of feathers, in which the red feathers of the tail of the tropic bird were most conspicuous. He stood facing the three priests, who continued praying for about ten minutes; when a man, starting from the crowd, said something which ended with the word heiva! and the crowd thrice echoed back to him, Earee! The company then moved to the opposite side of the morai, where the same ceremony was performed, ending with three cheers. The maro was now wrapped up and laid aside, after Otoo had stuck in it a small piece of red feathers, given him by one of the priests.

The company next retired to a large building, adjoining the morai; and when they had seated themselves in order, several speeches were delivered, which, according to Omai, were all pacific. A man afterwards rose up, with a sling round his waist, and a large stone on his shoulder; and after parading nearly a quarter of an hour, and singing some sentences, he threw down the stone; which, with a plantain tree that lay at Otoo's feet, being carried to the morai, Otoo and a priest uttered some words, which closed the solemnity.—The plantain tree seems to be much used by these islanders, not only as the olive branch of peace, but as a mark of homage, and token of devotion.

It was an attack of rheumatism that prevented Capt. Cook from being present at this solemnity, and of this disorder he was speedily cured, by an operation which had also been successfully performed here on Capt. Wallis. A dozen females, including the King's mother and three sisters, accompanied him on board the Resolution; and when he was laid upon a bed on the cabin floor, they surrounded him on every side, and began to squeeze him with both hands from head to foot, till his bones cracked, and his flesh became a perfect mummy. When the process had been continued about a quarter of an hour, the Captain felt so much relieved by it, that he submitted to it a second time, before he went to bed. This operation, which is called romee, was repeated by his female physicians in the morning, before they went ashore; and again in the evening, when they returned on board. Next morning, they took leave of their patient, the cure being then perfected.

Our navigator intended to leave Omai at Otaheite, where he might have been useful in instructing the natives in the management of the European animals, now left here: but he acted so imprudently as to forfeit the friendship of Otoo, and all the principal chiefs. He associated with vagabonds and strangers, whose sole views were to plunder him; and this drew upon him the ill-will of the chiefs, who found that they could not procure from any one in the ships, such valuable presents as Omai bestowed on the lowest of the people, his companions. He would not have behaved so unlike himself, had it not been for the sinister influence of his sister and brother-in-law, who, with a few of their acquaintance, sought to engross him entirely to themselves, to strip him of every thing. To save him from ruin, the Captain was obliged to take the most useful articles of his property into his own custody, to remove him to Huaheine, and peremptorily to forbid these selfish people to follow him thither. Omai, however, had got one good thing here, for the many good things he gave away; viz. a fine double canoe, presented by Towha, completely equipped, and fit for the sea: and he decked it out with ten or a dozen flags and pendants, of different nations. He also provided himself with a good stock of cloth, and cocoa-nut oil, at Otaheite; where they are better and cheaper, than at the other islands.

A day or two before the ships sailed, Otoo came on board, and begged the Captain to take home a canoe with him, which he had prepared as a present to the Earee rahie no Pretane—"the King of Britain." Capt. Cook was much pleased with this token of gratitude, which was altogether spontaneous, and regretted that he could not accept the present, as it was too large to take on board. It was a handsome double canoe, richly decorated with carved work.

In leaving Otaheite at this time, it was a pleasing reflection for our navigators, that nothing had occurred during their stay, to interrupt their friendly intercourse with the inhabitants. No accidents had taken place, and no thefts of any consequence had been committed. The Captain had prudently informed the chiefs, through Omai, at his first interview with them, that he was determined not to permit the natives to rob or pilfer; and that they would obtain a much larger share of British commodities in the way of fair trade, than by attempting to steal: and being thus taught, that "Honesty is the best policy," the chiefs not only forbore to steal themselves, but stationed guards, in different places, near Point Venus, to prevent any of the people from committing depredations. When Etary, the pretended god of Bolabola, took up his residence at Matavai, he was soon after removed to Oparre; and this was understood to have taken place at the desire of Otoo, who was afraid that his people might make attempts on the property of his respected visitors. Otoo, indeed, considered Matavai Fort as the property of the British, to be used by them on all occasions: and it is observable, that his son, twenty years after, formally ceded the district of Matavai to Captain Wilson, for the British Missionaries.

On monday, Sept. 29th, the ships weighed anchor, and stood out of the bay; when, to gratify Otoo and his people, seven guns were fired as a parting salute. Otoo being desirous of seeing the ships sail, Capt. Cook made a stretch out to sea with him, and then in again; when the King and his attendants took a very affectionate leave of their British friends, and went ashore in his canoe.

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Otaheite, with canoes.