The Selkirk Mountains/Chapter 10

by Arthur Oliver Wheeler

CHAPTER X.
CLOTHES FOR WALKERS AND CLIMBERS.

It is never wise nor safe to go to any mountain resort without several changes of flannels. While there are many hot days, the weather is variable, cold rains and snow sometimes occurring in the height of the summer. Always, the evenings are chilly and a wrap is necessary after dinner. Ladies will find a short serge or covert-cloth skirt, ankle-length or even shorter, a warm sweater fastening well up to the throat, a soft broad-brimmed felt hat, a motor veil of blue or green, and stout leather boots well nailed with ordinary nails, convenient and comfortable for roads and trails. A spiked walking stick, preferably with a sling, all ladies ought to have for comfort. Unless one is provided with the stout, nailed boots, a pair of new rubbers are needed.

For anything like comfort in climbing there are necessary: knickerbockers (not bloomers) made of covert-cloth (not serge which catches on rock and tears), and fastened below the knee with strap and buckle (not elastic) gaiters or puttees, two pairs of woollen stockings, and heavy, properly made, Swiss-nailed boots. Some climbers prefer puttees for the long snow-tramps. It is better to carry them in the rucksack until coming to the snow. Two extra pairs of stockings ought to be carried to exchange for wet ones at the beginning of a bivouac. Then a warm loose sweater and a short, double-breasted belted jacket with high collar, a felt hat (as above) that can be tied under the chin, if necessary, with a handkerchief or stout veil—a bandana preferable; a Jaegar cap with a small opening for the face, and coming down over the neck to be ready for storms or sudden cold; and large goggles of grey-green glass (more satisfactory than smoked glass) are all necessary in a climber's "outfit." The jacket ought to have plenty of pockets, especially two large inside pockets for maps; also a slit on each side to allow the belt to pass through and fasten underneath, thus keeping the coat in place when it is necessary to have the front open. The belt must be securely sewn at the back "or it will surely be lost," says Mr. V. A. Fynn, an experienced climber whose article on "Equipment" in the Canadian Alpine Journal, 1910, is heartily recommended to intending climbers for its practical detail, even to the pattern of each garment. Mr. Fynn prefers gaiters and advises baggy knickerbockers long enough to stuff into the gaiters when tramping in deep snow. But, as has been said, some good climbers prefer puttees. A very important article is a Jaeger abdominal belt. What applies to one sex applies to the other in all matters of clothing for actual climbing.

Boots are the climber's first consideration. It would scarcely be possible to improve upon the boot so precisely described by Mr. Fynn. The sole, ⅝ of an inch thick and extending beyond the uppers to protect the leather from sharp stones. should reach from toe to heel without a break, and the heel itself should project slightly all round. "A broad sole throughout materially stiffens the boot and gives a welcome sense of security when standing in ice-steps. The boot should fit closely at the heel and around the instep but entire freedom in all directions must be provided for the toes. If the toes are cramped they will freeze very easily." This means a broad toe. The uppers should reach two inches above the ankle. Too many nails spoil "the grip" and make the boot too heavy. A few nails under the instep are an advantage. The Swiss guides always have a supply of nails and luiderstand nailing. Mr. Whymper says that it is best to have the nailing "done on the spot," which is good advice if one's shoemaker does not understand the business. Crampons (climbing irons) are good on ice or hard snow, although unless fitting the boot closely, they are only a source of danger. In fitting them on, it is necessary to remember that the straps contract when wet. Concerning the care of climbing boots: Too much grease rots the leather; and out of the climbing season they should be kept in a dry' place.

Concerning the ice-axe: "Use as light an axe as your weight will allow, and see that the pick end is very long, some 8 or 9 inches. This is very important and is of great help when cutting down steep ice-slopes." A brass ring that slides up and down the handle to which may be attached a leather thong or a strong suspender is an improvement on the old-fashioned sling.

To protect the face and neck from sunburn on the snow, zinc ointment is recommended, or some reliable emollient. The rucksack is indispensable.

The best rope is that with the red thread through it, Beale's Alpine rope: 15 or 20 yards are sufficient for two climbers, 30 yards for three, and so on. Wet rope ought to dry slowly and never on rock under a hot sun. When not in use, keep in a dry well-ventilated place.

Rules for the Rope.
(Selected from a paper by J. P. Forde in the Canadian Alpine Journal.)

1. Climbers should be placed at equal distances, except the leader and the next climber who should have more rope. The distances vary to suit the mountain and no hard and fast intervals on the rope can be laid down.
2. See that the rope is properly tied. The "bowline" is recommended for the end men. and the '"noose" for the intermediate.
3. Everyone is responsible for the portion of the rope between himself and the man ahead.
4. When paying out rope to the man ahead, keep it clear of cracks.
5. Keep your portion of the rope away from loose rocks.
6. On rock-faces and dificult traverses, only one man should move at a time, the others being ready to hold him if he slip.
7. Always make use of projecting rocks for belaying pins, after making sure that it is secure.
8. Test the rope occasionally, especially before trusting your weight on it.
9. When a party is moving steadily upward, carry a small loop of the rope in one hand.
10. When making a traverse where a serious slip might occur, do not let the rope get slack.
11. On steep couloirs where there is loose rock, keep as closely together as possible.
12. Use the rope on a dry glacier, if crevassed.
13. Always use the rope on a névé, and never let it slacken. If the party has been unroped, rope again.
14. Before jumping an open crevasse, make sure of enough slack rope behind to allow you to reach the opposite side.
15. If one man falls in a crevasse, pull him out from one side only.
16. On a steep snow-slope up or down, pass a loop of the rope around the handle of your ice-axe and stick the point of the handle well into the snow at every step.
17. Crossing a steep snow or ice-couloir where it is necessary to cut steps, let the leader go the full length of the rope himself. Those-behind can hold the rope securely.
18. Never attempt a dangerous place without at least one good anchorage within the length of the rope.

To which is added a few other cautionary rules:

1. Never jump on a snow-bridge. Cross it cannily.
2. Never allow more than one at a time on a doubtful snow bridge.
3. Remember that all snow-bridges are likely to be weaker in the afternoon: this on account of the sun.
4. Eat and drink as much as possible while climbing. Do not drink ice-water.
5. Always retain a reserve of strength.
6. Never climb unless in perfect physical condition, every habit normal.
7. Avoid stimulants during a climb, save in emergency.
8. Take some extra food in case of delay.
9. Never climb a difficult mountain if it is in bad condition from fresh snow.
10. Do not glissade down an unknown slope. First know the slope.

Skilful climbers who may smile at some of these rules are asked to note that they are written down for those little skilled on rock and ice.

One of the best known Selkirk Animals	One of the denizens of Cougar Valley