The Three Colonies of Australia/Part 2/Chapter 31
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE DIARIES OF DIGGERS.
THE disappointments in California had rendered the English public cautious, but the arrival in the port of London of actual cargoes of gold, and letters from colonists enriched by digging, presently brought the emigrating public to fever heat, and thousands of all classes and ages betook themselves to Australia, and a large re-emigration took place from South Australia and New South Wales. From the correspondence and journals of these adventurers—some of them experienced colonists—we condense accounts of what they saw, omitting much of what they thought, hoped, feared, and ejaculated.
PASSAGE.
"In the first place, take your own passage or berth for yourself: trust not to any one, not even a brother, for it. Second, make the bargain that no one is to be in the same berth with you (that is, if you go in the second cabin or intermediate.) Bring on board a small barrel for holding water (not a tin can, on any account), a camp stool for sitting on, a lock and key for your berth door, and a determination to make a companion of no one all the voyage, and only seek a speaking friend after you have been three weeks at sea. It is also indispensably necessary that every article you possess, except the wearing apparel on your person, be locked in your trunks and the keys in your pocket.
"In the accounts of the voyages to Australia you will notice that much is said about the great heat; but, as far as my experience goes, too little is said about the extreme cold weather which is experienced after rounding the Cape of Good Hope. It is necessary, therefore, to have a suit of very warm clothing, no matter how coarse it is, but warm it must be. If you were not teetotalers, I should also advise you to bring with you two bottles of brandy and the same quantity of whiskey, but that as your taste inclines.****
PORT PHILLIP.
"The headlands of Port Phillip were reached and entered, the anchor was thrown overboard, and our vessel from Liverpool, with 175 passengers, had completed the voyage from England to Australia in eighty-two days.****
"We thought then our troubles were over, but not so. Well, the anchor is dropped; and the captain, who has been up all night, hoarse with bawling and swearing, goes down below to sleep. You go below also to get breakfast, and find that the steward does not consider himself bound to serve the passengers with clean cups any longer. On being remonstrated with, his answer will probably be, 'You may go to the devil.' Well, it is no use kicking against the pricks; therefore help yourself, and go to the cookhouse for hot water, and get everything requisite for breakfast. The talk then begins in the forenoon—after all the beauties of the bay have been pointed out over and over again, until you are absolutely sick of them—the cry then is, 'Where is the pilot?' The answer from some one is, 'Oh, all those ships are to go up the bay before us, and we must wait our turn. It may be a week before we get up yet.' Day draws on, but no pilot. Next morning no pilot; still dirty plates, and the steward grown more insolent. In the afternoon the pilot comes on board. He says, 'The wind is against us, we may lie here a week.' All next day the wind is against us, but the following day a breeze springs up, the sails are spread out to the breeze, a man is placed in the chains to heave the lead, and off we go. In the afternoon we reach Hobson's Bay, still a part of Port Phillip, but a different creek. Well, the anchor is again dropped, the pilot leaves the ship, and another is added to the 150 ships at anchor in the bay. We are still eight miles from Melbourne, which lies on the Yarra Yarra. The cry then is, 'When shall we get ashore?' 'Oh,' replies one, 'the inspector must come on board first, and the captain must go on shore to deliver up his papers, and a lighter or steamer must be engaged to take us up.' Well, in two days no steamer or lighter appeared: and Mr. W and I went off with a steamer that was plying about among the shipping, and paid 5s. each for a sail of eight miles. We reached Melbourne. We asked where a house was to be had. The reply was, 'There are no houses to let in Melbourne.' Lodgings we could have got at £2 each a week, but that we did not want. All that day we walked through the town searching for a house, but found none. We returned to the ship, and paid 7s. each for another sail. We came on shore next day for 2s. 6d., walked all day, and again failed in our object; but that night we stayed in an inn on shore, and next morning we had the pleasure of securing a wooden erection, miscalled a house, of two rooms, at the moderate rent of £1 per week. Joyfully we returned to the ship, expecting that a lighter would be alongside to take our luggage and our wives to the house we had rented; but, alas for the courtesy and attention of our captain! no such comfort awaited us. 'It will be here to-morrow,' was his reply when asked about it. To-morrow came, but no lighter. Passengers got savage; some swore; some urged that a deputation should be sent to the agent of the ship, and to the magistrates of Melbourne. This course was adopted; two gentlemen were deputed to go. They went. The agent told them he knew nothing about it, and that they had better get on shore with their luggage as best they could. The magistrates said, 'Make your case known to a respectable solicitor, and we will hear it.' Thus were we pushed about from one to another. One man took his luggage ashore in a boat, at his own cost, at an expense of £9 sterling. Had I followed his example it would have cost me as much. I went to the captain; he assured me the lighter would come in a few days, and, being sick of the ship, Mary and I, along with a Mrs. W and her daughter, bolted from the ship, and left our luggage to the care of Providence. We slept two nights in an inn. Mr. W's luggage came at the expiry of that period in a lighter, and we then got his boxes into one of the wooden houses previously taken. There we lived for a fortnight. None of my luggage came ashore all that time. I was in the same position as the rest of the passengers, and after waiting and wearying our hopes almost out, we got everything safe and sound out of the lighter on the 1st of November. That, however, was but one-half of my troubles. Melbourne was flooded with young men seeking situations, which were not to be had."
After several unsuccessful applications for employment, and some other mishaps, the writer continues—
"Sad, dejected, and weary, we reached Mr. W's house, where we slept all night. Next day I got up my luggage and took one of P's rooms, dressed myself in my best, went to the Argus office, quite in a state of desperation, and was civilly received, and offered at once a situation at £208 per annum."
LANDING.
"Melbourne, Nov. 4, 1852.
"Here am I at this moment seated on a trunk, with my writing-desk opened on the top of another trunk, and a blazing wood fire on the hearth, with the lamp that served us on the voyage lighted beside me. My wife is seated on my carpet bag, stuffed with dirty clothes, busily engaged in mending stockings, which yesterday she washed and dried at the front of the house. The floor is covered with canvass; the walls are of wood, through which the light shines when the lamp is extinguished, and the roof is also covered with pieces of wood instead of good blue slates. Our mattresses, which served us on the ship— good hair ones—are spread out in one corner of the room. In another is a load of wood, for which I paid this day the sum of 1 5s., and my large trunk stands against a partition, with the lid covered with all my books and papers. The house has two rooms. Mr. Hutton and his wife stay in one apartment, James Pett and his wife are living in the other. There, now you have a picture of our domestic economy; and when I add that both Mary and I are cheerful and happy in it, I give you full liberty to enjoy a laugh at what I have the honour to call my first house.
"The advance of Melbourne, in a commercial point of view, is surprisingly rapid, and so far her prosperity seems to be based on a safe monetary foundation. The business part of the city is crowded each day by an anxious throng, mostly parties preparing for or returning from the diggings. In one lot you will see the lately arrived 'new chum,' with his carefully cultivated moustache, raised on the voyage, a la, Bond-street; his leathern overalls, his fancy stick, and his 'swag' done up in Mackintosh. In another you may behold the 'old hand,' the wary old file who has campaigned it at the Turon, at Braidwood, and at the Mount, and who is now preparing for a trip to Bendigo, but who declares that there is no use going till the roads are open. With him there is none of your finery. A pair of stout boots, a blanket, and the everlasting 'hook-pot,' complete his equipment. Anon you enter a gold-buyer's shop, and perceive a party disposing of the proceeds of their adventure. One party of three that I saw the other day had 145 lbs. weight to dispose of. Another, a sailor lad, had 28 lbs., the produce of three months' work at the Bendigo. Such instances are of no rare occurrence; in short they are rather the rule than the exception.
"I have said much about the immorality of the place; it is but fair to state that my remarks apply only to a certain class, who are, as it were, beyond the pale of society, but whose conduct exercises a pernicious influence upon the whole social system. I have been to most of the churches on Sabbath, and I was pleased to find all of them well filled with respectable and attentive congregations. In one particular the clergy are reaping a golden harvest from the diggings themselves. I allude to the demand which there is for their services in that ceremony which binds the sexes together 'for better for worse' through life. And let me inform you that a digger's marriage here is no everyday affair, though they be upon each successive Sunday. The turn-out on all occasions is spicy. I have seen even the wheels of the vehicles (six in number) adorned with rosettes of love ribbons; the jarvey and the horse covered with white so profusely that at a distance they might pass for a small locomotive pyramid of snow. And such dresses as are worn by the brides and bridesmaids—such silks, such satins, such orange blossoms!
"The city itself, though well laid out, is in the most wretched condition as regards all sanitary regulations, and as regards what is still of more immediate consequence to its inhabitants—protection for life and property. The rains, which have not yet ceased for the season, continue to pour down in incessant torrents, covering all the flat and marshy ground around the city, and within it it is no exaggeration to say that the streets are like so many rivers of mud, and in many instances knee deep. So deep and so dirty are the streets, that one out of every three pedestrians you meet in the course of the day, has his nether man encased in a pair of huge leather boots—no other way of getting along with safety being available. Add to the filthy state of the streets the fact that there is no gas in the town, nor attempt made to light it in any way, and that water for culinary purposes is so dear as to become an article of luxury rather than of use, and you will be able to form some slight idea of the sanitary condition of this city.
"There is not household accommodation for one-third of its present occupants. I have seen instances of over-crowding in sleeping apartments since I came here, that were it to occur in any other country in the world would breed almost instant fever. It is no rare thing to see twenty stout and stalwart men, each requiring as much air for the proper inflation of his lungs as an ox, stretched upon the floor of a close, confined, unventilated room, night after night; and for this accommodation various prices are charged, from one-and-sixpence to half-a-crown. Nor in this respect are what may be termed respectable taverns much better. I know an instance where four men were sleeping in one room, in a respectable hotel, and were all thrown into dirty sheets, handed on the first morning of their sojourn, dirty, nay filthy towels; and after the lapse of four days I happened to meet with one of the party, and making inquiry as to whether there had been any reform in the toilet department—'No,' said he, 'the same nasty things are there yet. We asked for a change, but were told that if we did not like them we might change our quarters, and so we are just as before.'
"A few evenings since I was at the house of a friend of that peace-loving class called Quakers, and several other gentlemen were there besides, when we were all at once startled by a heavy rap at the door. Our host and 'friend' immediately opened it, when a herculean savage thrust a great bullet head inside, and in the most insolent tones demanded either money or a night's lodging. Friend John expostulated, but, being rather diminutive in stature, the intruder paid but little attention to him until he perceived the company, when he retired grumbling and swearing, 'What, though he was a government man, he had as good a right to summit as any other.' It is generally believed here that the parties who are the ringleaders, at least, of those vagabonds are those gentlemen whom Earl Grey so pathetically describes as bearing favourable comparison with the free emigrants who have come here."
THE SUBURBS OF MELBOURNE.
"In the neighbourhood of the capital of Victoria there are many pleasant spots, where one given to rambling may spend a quiet afternoon, and where 'ye manners and ye customs of ye people' may be learned as clearly as if you mingled in all their everyday avocations. Amongst the most popular places of resort are, St. Kilda and Liardet's Beach, both situated on the margin of the noble bay, nearly opposite William's Town. Although Melbourne possesses a tolerably fair steam fleet, in the shape of various tug boats, belonging chiefly to Captain Cole, not one of these vessels is allowed to ply on Sunday; and hence there is, upon one day in the week at least, a very great demand for horse-flesh. The bazaars and livery stables upon a Sunday morning present a very animated spectacle; for here almost every masculine biped of the genus homo considers it his peculiar privilege to mount his horse on Sunday, without, be it remembered, the smallest reference to the fact as to whether he can ride or not.
"St. Kilda lies about three miles from Melbourne, on the south side of the Yarra, and as there is no highway, except the usual bush ruts after the Prince's Bridge is crossed, the walk or ride, which you please, is very pleasant. Arrived at the village, you are somewhat surprised at the appearance of rapid growth which everything indicates. Houses (wooden, of course) are in course of construction, some nearly finished, others but commenced; and yet so eager are the people for house accommodation, that the shingles are scarcely on the roofs before they are tenanted. At St. Kilda there is a very fine hotel, at which they charge very fine prices; but then, in the go-a-head city, as Melbourne is now called, who cares for a handful of silver? I was much pleased to observe here a taste more generally diffused for the cultivation of flowers than is to be found generally about Melbourne.
"The ramble from St. Kilda to Liardet's Beach, by the margin of the wide and noble bay, a distance of about two miles, is very agreeable; although, beyond the broad expanse of water, dotted, nay, closely studded with shipping at anchor, there is nothing to relieve the dull monotony of the place. At Liardet's, however, the scene changes, and from the solitude of the shore and your own reflections, you are once more aroused by the din of human voices. Here they are again—shopkeepers, shopmen, diggers, ladies, diggers' wives, horses, hackney carriages, shandies, gigs, and almost every possible, and sometimes very questionable modes of conveyance, all congregated on the sand. Pedestrians wandering, promenading, flirting, drinking, laughing, talking, on the pier and in the shade of the cool verandahs; pic-nics in the scrub; mirth and merriment everywhere; boatmen lustily bawling for passengers, and waiters for more drink at the bar of the hotel. Tents are pitched upon all the ground surrounding this house of entertainment, wherein many a new chum for the first time indulges in a glass of ale, and when he has paid sixpence, declares that 'it is not half so good as Burton or Alton.'
"A good deal of novelty is added to this scene by the constant transit to and from a large ship, the Duke of Bedford, which is here moored off the pier, and turned into a model lodging-house. 'Bed and board, sir,' said our conductors on board, the other day, 'for two pounds a week; delightful marine residence and boatage found into the bargain.' Decidedly the accommodations are excellent, and the worthy proprietor keeps a good table. His apartments are full. It would be well if a few more of the dozens upon dozens of idle ships lying in harbour were turned to an equally useful and profitable account to their owners. I was a good deal surprised to find, amidst all the recreations of all classes and all kinds who visit the beach upon Sunday, so little riot or intoxication. Except upon the arrival of a lot of 'new chums,' with more money than sense, you will hardly observe any riot or drunkenness. Noise there is, but still there is order.
"The road from the beach to town lies through a low marshy scrub, which presents not one single pleasing feature, except we diverge at the Emerald Hill and take a look in at the encampment of the tents of gold-diggers in transitu to the Mount or elsewhere. There are the coverings erected by poor new-comers to shelter them from the heavens, and to make a temporary but safe refuge for themselves, their luggage, and their families. And, oh! such squalor, such misery. It is pitiable to see well-dressed and genteelly-reared females, young and tender infants, as well as grown-up persons, crouching and squatting in miserable wigwams, of which a North-American Indian would be ashamed. But what can the creatures do?
"The botanic garden is another favourite resort for the Melbournites upon Sunday; but its visitors are of a different class. This is the ground where half the 'matches' which grace our churches daily are contracted. Here it is that newly-married husbands display their brides during the honeymoon. Such a blaze of silk and satin, such bonnets, such feathers, flowers (artificial, of course), and such ribbons! I was particularly struck with the freshness and beauty of many of the charming belles who frequent the gardens, contrasting strongly with the general sallow and somewhat acclimatised style of female beauty prevalent about Sydney. They are generally handsome, and fresh in colour.
"The charges to which poor confiding passengers are subjected to before landing here from the bay are monstrous. These people take their passage at Liverpool or London on the faith that themselves and luggage will be delivered at Melbourne the same as at Sydney; but guess their astonishment when they find that they have 4s. each to pay for steam-boat fare up, and 30s. per ton for their luggage; and when they get on the wharf, there are other dues which, as the wharves belong to private individuals, are fixed at such rates as their honours please.
"When the Lady Head arrived here from Liverpool the weather was most inclement—wet pouring down in bucketfuls, and the dirt, slop, and mud more than knee-deep, not only in the thoroughfares, but in every spot where it was possible for human beings to set foot. In this state of affairs I saw more than 400 poor people thrust upon our wharves, without food or shelter, but what their scanty bedding supplied. In this state of affairs, Mr. Cole allowed the poor sufferers the use of the sheds on his wharf. Happening to be there in the early part of the night, I ascertained that a young woman, the wife of an intelligent Scotchman, gave birth to her first-born child.
"The public buildings of Melbourne are of a most inferior description, both in point of architectural style and internal accommodation. The only building of note at all adequate to its requirements is the Mechanics' Institution; and it has now to do the treble duty of concert hall, assembly room, and town hall, including offices, &c., for the town clerk. The library attached to the institution is very good indeed, and the rooms spacious and commodious. The Legislative Council sits now in St. Patrick's Hall."
DIARY OF A JOURNEY FROM MELBOURNE TO BENDIGO.
"Sep. 8th.—Left the camp, passed through Flemington, about three miles out of Melbourne; roads in a dreadful state. Hundreds going to and returning from the diggings. Met several of those who came down in the Waratah with us, who had been up at the diggings, and had returned already, having 'ta'en a scunner' at it, as they say in Scotland. A most beautiful country, as green as emerald, hills richly sloping, and clotted with umbrageous trees. The country, from the appearance of the soil and formation of the hills, appears to be admirably adapted for the cultivation of the vine. The mimosa, which is a much handsomer tree here than in New South Wales, being large and shady, appears scattered through the forest, and being now in full bloom, presents to the view a perfect mass of beautiful golden flowers. Travelled to-day only five miles, the roads being ankle-deep.
"9th.—Our horses strayed away during the night, and we did not find them until mid-day. Just after starting it commenced to rain slightly. Crossing Keila Plains the roads were awfully bad, and to add to our ills the rain poured down in regular torrents. Had our horses not have been first-rate ones we must inevitably have stuck fast, as during the whole day they had heavy pulling, men on foot being unable to walk the road without sinking knee-deep. We had two
A SHEPHERD'S HUT.
"10th.—Roads worse than on either of the previous days, the ground being quite rotten and swampy. Country resembling parts of Liverpool Plains; timber principally box. In the evening a suspicious looking character came to the camp, having no boots or hat on, telling us that he had been robbed, and threatening vengeance on the thief. Our clothes-box being in the cart, C wanted to have it brought into the tent, as our fortune he said was in it, upon which some wit in the camp replied that it was a ragged one. The fellow, however, who appeared to be a shepherd for some one in the vicinity, after staying some time, and using some ferocious language in reference to his spoliator, departed quietly, but not before we had given him several hints that his room was more acceptable than his company. Eight miles.
"11th.—When at breakfast this morning, a large brown snake came out of the log that was burning, and went into a pool of water close by. Those who doubt the fact of a snake's having legs might have been convinced of it by seeing this one, as the legs were distinctly visible after they had been swollen by the heat, and much resembled those of a caterpillar, only they were much larger. Roads very swampy. Kept along the Deep Creek for a considerable part of the day, Mount Macedon being in sight on our left hand. Much of the scenery very picturesque, especially on the Deep Creek, the trees consisting of honeysuckle, cherry-tree, mimosa, eucalyptus, &c. There is a species of thorny mimosa growing here, which I have never seen in New South Wales, and the foliage of which is very pretty. Came to the Rocky Waterholes' Plain, where we met a bullock driver, who informed us that gold had been found within a few miles on a station belonging to Mr. Rigg. We determined upon inspecting the new gold-field, and leaving the others with the cart, three of us started in search of it. After going about half a mile, we came to Rigg's house, when we were directed to the diggings, about a quarter of a mile distant. When we got there, there were about a dozen men, two of whom only were at work; the rest having come, like ourselves, to see the place. The two men who had discovered the gold informed us that they had been working there about a fortnight—no one knowing it until the day before. They had sunk several holes on the top of a pretty high hill—the gullies as yet being too wet to allow of a hole to be sunk in them. From what we could learn from themselves, and from washing several tin dishfuls of earth taken from the bottom of the holes which they had sunk, it did not appear to us that much could be done in that spot, although it seems very probable that a rich gold-field will be discovered somewhere in the neighbourhood. About four feet below the surface there was a vein of quartz, which was extraordinarily rich in ore. Every stone that we broke was dotted with minute specks of gold. One of the men showed us a piece that he had obtained from one of the holes, about the size of a pea. The soil through which they sunk was decomposed slate, resting on a bed of pipeclay. The appearance of the country around is very picturesque, particularly near the banks of the Deep Creek—gently sloping hills, dotted with umbrageous gum-trees, and covered with a thick sward of grass as green as emerald. Went back to our mates, intending to proceed about half a mile further before we pitched our tent. Crossing a flat, we were obliged to divide the load into two; but notwithstanding this, we got bogged, and were obliged to unload and take the horses out. Camped on Rigg's station. Five miles. The mosquitoes very troublesome, which one would not expect at this time of the year.
"12th (Sunday).—Stayed at encampment. Some went out to inspect the new diggings, and returned bringing with them several pieces of quartz full of specks of gold. The majority, notwithstanding, determined on proceeding to Bendigo, in preference to stopping to give the place a trial. Four men encamped with us this night, who reported a fight about a claim at the diggings, in which two or three men were killed, and several wounded. They told us also that a nugget of pure gold, weighing upwards of 28 lbs., had been found at Eagle Hawk Gully, Bendigo. The Deep Creek, on which the new diggings are situated, runs eastward. If, therefore, gold in abundance be found there, it will be somewhat in contradiction to geological theories. The distance is twenty-five miles from Melbourne.
"13th.—Very bad roads again. Country undulating and more thickly timbered; box and stringy-bark ranges. Get bogged, and take the horses out. Ascended Pretty Sally's or the Big Hill. The soil excellent, and cultivation on the very top of the mountain. The road which we came and that to Sydney meet on the top of this hill. Magnificent view from the top of the hill—open plains, wood-crowned heights, shady valleys, and towering hills—'places which pale passion loves'—the view extending on one side to the sea coast, and the habitations of man alone being wanting to make the scenery perfect. Descended the hill and encamped at the foot of it. Twelve miles. A tall Highlander who was at a camp close by came down to converse with some of his countrymen who were with us, and afforded us much amusement.
"14th.—Passed through Kilmore; the land very rich; saw the wife of the man who had obtained the 28 lb. nugget at Bendigo. She informed us that her husband had sold it for £4 per ounce. About midday it commenced to rain very hard; roads indescribably bad; got bogged and unloaded, pulled the dray out, went a few yards and got bogged again; pulled the dray out again, and camped on the side of a ridge; the ground everywhere, both on the road and ranges, being perfectly rotten. Up nearly all night drying our bed-clothes, &c., which had got wet through. Obliged every night to cut poles and boughs to put under us, the ground being a regular quagmire. The tinkling of the oxen's bells, which one hears at every encampment, gives somewhat of an oriental character to the scene. Six miles.
"15th.—Crossed Donohoe's Creek; broke one of the traces in crossing, with fair pulling. If the horses had not been extraordinarily good they could never have kept on, in the state in which the roads were. Came to a creek in which there were several drays stuck—one with nine horses—it being unable to cross. There is scarcely a dray you meet on the road that is not accompanied with one or two women, oftentimes with families of children, all bound for or returning from the diggings. Got bogged in crossing the creek, unloaded, and then had great difficulty in getting over, as the horses had no footing, and sank up to the shoulder. The country very beautiful, compensating in part for the badness of the roads, which were the worst we had encountered. The hills and valleys were covered with flowers daisies, white and yellow butter-cups, snowdrops, &c., while the mimosa bloomed along our path, adding fresh beauty to the scene and fragrancy to the air. Each succeeding scene only impresses more forcibly on the mind the appropriateness of the title bestowed upon the country by Sir T. Mitchell, of 'Australia Felix.' The country is well grassed and watered, the timber low and branching, without any underwood, and more beautiful and picturesque than any park. Just before encamping got bogged the second time, the ground being very deceiving, the horses sinking to their middle in a place where you would least expect it. Encamped in a most beautiful and romantic valley, on the banks of a deep creek, with large waterholes—which some fanciful individuals of our party imagined might be the retreats of the far-famed bunyip. Honeysuckle, mimosa, and eucalyptus were the most common trees, and formed beautiful groves. Five miles.
GRASS TREES.
"16th.—Crossed two very bad creeks; met a great number of drays; crossed box hill and stringy bark ranges; the latter always dreary-looking. Witnessed some beautiful scenery; hills rising over hills, covered with grass and shady trees; the valleys enamelled with flowers. Passed Morrison's station—a beautiful place. Ascended the Dividing Range. Granite in large masses begins to appear; quartz predominates in this to a very unusual extent, and this fact may probably throw some light on the richness of the Victoria gold-fields. The rocks are ofttimes of very peculiar forms, and in remarkable situations; large masses of tons weight, and quite round, lying on top of one another; the least effort being sufficient to remove them, and send them headlong down the mountain. The ranges are very low, and in fact the whole country is remarkably level; a circumstance which is contrary to one's preconceived notions of a gold-bearing region. The roads much better, and lined with diggers homeward and outward bound. The soil decomposed granite, which appears to be the only rock in the neighbourhood. The honeysuckle is met with here much farther from the coast than in Australia Proper, and grows in all sorts of soil and situations. Crossed Morrison's Creek, over which there is a bridge, the passage over which is rather unsafe, in consequence of the late heavy rains. Overtook two horse teams from Goulburn, which had been four months on the road, having been detained in crossing the river a week or fortnight at a time. Splendid views from the axis of the mountain ranges; sheep and cattle feeding on the wood-crowned hills, and in the fertile valleys, and forming a charming and enticing picture of pastoral life. Encamped, having for beds the branches of the gum wattle, as soft and luxurious as a bed of down. Fourteen miles.
"17th.—Crossed scrubby stringy bark ranges; got bogged, and were obliged to lay logs for twenty or thirty yards in order to get through roads pretty good except in the gullies, which were desperately bad; fragmentary quartz in great abundance, and strong indications of gold; got bogged the second time near the M'Ivor Inn; most beautiful scenery; roads excellent, and as level as possible for the last three miles of this day's journey; encamped in the most delightful valley that the eye of man could behold. Never before did the country seem so justly to merit the appellation of the 'blest Australia'—never before did the mimosa seem to bear such lovely blossoms, or shed such fragrant odours—never before did the air seem so pure, clear, and inspiriting as in that delicious valley. The herbage soft, green, and luxuriant. Flowers of all hues, white, and purple, and crimson, and gold, and violet, in which those of a golden colour predominated, enamelled the hills and valleys, grateful alike to the sight and smell. Buttercups, dandelions, eglantine, daisies, snowdrops, &c., completely covered the ground; the first-mentioned, in particular, growing as richly as possible over acres, nay, miles of ground. The trees are principally mimosa and honeysuckle, and here and there some giant of the eucalyptus order grew in handsome clumps, some in full blossom, others without any, but not the less beautiful; while between them were green open spaces, on which the sun poured down a flood of light. To complete the scene the M'Ivor meandered through the valley, each winding turn disclosing 'some fresher beauties varying round.' Travelled to-day eleven miles.
"18th.—Travelled along the course of the M'Ivor for eleven miles. The scenery equal, if not superior, to that of yesterday. Even those who are usually unmindful of natural beauties were unable to gaze on the landscape without giving vent to passionate exclamations of admiration; English, Irish, and Scotch, all concurred in agreeing that they had never before seen anything so beautiful. To add to our pleasure the roads were excellent, and as level as a bowling-green. The formation of the country is principally schistose, with an abundance of fragmentary quartz. Crossed the M'Ivor, and came on to box flats, in which swamp oak appeared for the first time. Scrubby ranges, box, and stringy bark; coarse grass and herbs like those at the Turon; country more level than at the Turon. From the geological structure and general appearance I should imagine that gold would be found somewhere in the neighbourhood in abundance. Roads very bad again. Crossed a box flat entirely consisting of hillocks having the appearance of waves, and very uniform in their size. It seems as if the land had been thrown up in a fused and slightly agitated mass, and then suddenly cooled. Came to the Campaspie River, and had a fresh view of the celebrated Mount Alexander; romantic scenery, great abundance of trap rock. When we got here, we were told we could not cross, as the river was up. About forty drays were encamped on the banks, waiting the first opportunity to pass over; we accordingly pitched our tent on the bank of the river, intending to cross over on Monday morning, the stream being then considerably swollen and running rapidly. To-day eighteen miles.
"19th (Sunday).—Remained in camp. An immense number of people, on foot and on horseback, crossed the Campaspie to-day, on their way to and from the diggings. The river fell considerably during the day and previous night. About sunset the sky became overcast with heavy clouds, threatening immediate rain, and therefore we thought it advisable to cross the river at once, as it was probable we should be detained on its banks a week or two if it should happen to rain. Packed up accordingly, and started to cross over, one of the party riding the leading horse. When about half way over, the leader laid down, which circumstance was nearly causing an unlucky termination to our passage; fortunately, however, she rose again, and we crossed without further trouble, although the water was above the bed of the cart, and running with a strong current. It was lucky for us that we did cross, as it rained hard during the night.
"20th.—Raining hard during the forenoon, but fine in the afternoon. Passed over box and gum forests, scrubby in places, and thinly-timbered well-grassed flats. The country in general, so far as this, was as fine as could be wished for. The grass every where soft, silky, and as green as a field of young wheat. Unlike that of New South Wales, the grass and pasture here consists of nutritious herbs and very fine grass, growing in a thick sward, and completely hiding the soil. Hills and vales alike were covered with flowers, principally of a yellow colour, and growing as thick as they could—presenting to the eye of one accustomed to the almost flowerless fields of Australia an unusual and beautiful appearance, realising in some respects the description given of English meadows. Everywhere, too, the mimosa, loveliest of the flowering trees of Australia, and destined to be as much celebrated in the lays of her poets as the hawthorn has been in those of the British bards, scented the air with its perfume, and dazzled the eye with its rich yellow blossoms. Passed over some barren ranges covered with quartz, the only thing pleasant on them being some flowering shrubs, chiefly of the mimosa species. Through some fertile flats, the roads very level and good, as indeed they were during the greater part of the day—the only fault in them being a bog here and there, which after our previous bad roads we considered a mere nothing. Met several men who were returning from the diggings, and from whom we learned that robberies and murders had of late been very frequent at Bendigo. On Wednesday last, near thirty drays were stopped by a large gang of bushrangers in the Black Forest, and rum, tobacco, and other property taken from them to a great amount. One man lost upwards of £700 worth of gold. No less than three murders have been committed during the last week at Bendigo, one in Eagle Hawk, another at Peg Log Gully, and another in the Long Gully. One of the murdered men, we are informed, had his head completely severed from the body. Our informants told us that they had heard cries of 'murder' from the tent in which one of the unfortunate men was killed, but hearing some one (probably one of the perpetrators of the crime) laugh at the same time, they thought that the men were joking among themselves. The police are out scouring the bush in all directions. We thanked our stars that we had not gone by the road through the Black Forest, as we had at first intended, since being indifferently armed, how much soever we might have wished to display our heroism, we should have had but little chance of doing so. Crossed Emu Creek; the country of slate formation; quartz in abundance. An immense number of people passing to and from the diggings; men, women, and children along the whole road from this to Bendigo. Came to Bullock Creek, where we saw the places that the diggers had made for cradling during the dry weather, when the washing stuff had to be carried here from Bendigo, a distance of seven or eight miles. Four seizures of sly grog-sellers' carts, &c., were made here by the commissioner and police this morning. Passed over barren ridges, the timber on which consisted of iron bark, box, gum, and stringy bark. This was the first time I had seen iron bark in Victoria. Quartz in great abundance, every ridge being covered with it. The country, in its geological structure and general appearance, very much resembles that on the Long Creek in the Western diggings. The ridges are unusually uniform in their size, lower than one would be inclined to imagine in a gold region, and have all the same direction. The strike of the strata is north by west and south by east; schistose formation well developed; and quartz in unusual abundance. The whole, or nearly the whole, of the country over which we passed to-day, has every appearance of being a rich gold-field, but it has not yet had a fair trial. About three p.m. came in sight of the commencement of the Bendigo diggings, or what is called the Back Creek. Pitched our tent on the Back Creek. Travelled to-day a distance of 16 miles—thus making the whole distance to Bendigo 107 miles, which I think is correct, although less than what we were informed it was.
"We, however, travelled upwards of 140 miles, having to make so many detours in order to avoid bad places in the roads.
"R. W."
OPOSSUM.
A FOOT JOURNEY TO MOUNT ALEXANDER.
"We started for these mines on foot, each carrying his swag—mine weighed 50 lbs. We had no other alternative, for there was no dray to be got. I found the roads as bad as I had heard. We saw about 100 drays on the road stuck fast. We could only make fifteen miles a day, so it took us seven days; and when we arrived I was knocked up with cold, owing to being continually wet through between heavy rains and wading through creeks up to the middle. I and another got lost once on the mountains for eight hours; but, as luck would have it, we fell in with our party at the Bendigo diggings, which, when all mustered, consisted of five. To-day ends our first week's work; my share consists of £15, besides half an ounce I made myself.
"I enjoy very good health now, otherwise it would be a hard case, as doctors charge £5 5s. for looking at you.
"You would scarcely know me. My hair is very long, I wear an old cap, a flannel shirt next my skin, and a blue one over all, with a belt round my waist, where hang a brace of pistols and a knife eighteen inches long, and a pair of antepopelos up to my haunches. I am always covered with mud and soaked with water. You may judge of the weather when I tell you, that when we rise in the morning our blankets are covered with frost."
FOREST CREEK.
"The surface of the hills in this district, in many places, is quite white from the quantity of small quartz, from the size of a pin's head to a man's head. I tried surface washing, and knocked out an ounce a day, taking eight or nine inches of the surface like the above, the quartz being embedded in black loam. I also found gold in a red clay under the above, say from nine to fifteen inches under the surface. This was heavier gold, as if it had by gravity gone through the loam and rested in the clay. The richest surfacing here has been on Spring Hill, which is the highest part of the range between Forest Creek and Fryer's Creek, the summit being about 600 feet above these creeks, which are four or five miles from each other. Surfacing is as uncertain as sinking. You may wash a whole day and get nothing, or you may happen upon some ounces in a square foot. I have tried many places, and invariably found at least a few streaks of gold in each dishful.
"The quartz lying in this soil I may liken to the fruit in a good plum-pudding. Where there is gold on the surface, there is sure to be gold lying on the rock below.
"Sinking in gullies and flats, I have always found the clay predominating, generally lying in strata more or less mixed with gravel, and sometimes a stratum of pure gravel or pure sand; the latter is reckoned a bad sign. In this sort of sinking you come to the rock at various depths to twenty-five feet; I have seen none deeper. Hill sinking is more tedious, as the strata are always harder—going through a hard red conglomerate gravel, or a hard white cemented quartz, very gritty—the base rock is often forty or fifty feet down.
"These base rocks, on the top of which the gold lies, are sandstone, generally red, and pipe-clay. This pipe-clay appears to be slate in a softer state. It is laminated, and will cut easily with a knife. The top of the slate is softish for four or five inches, and contains gold. It is this top that is scraped off with a knife and washed. The pipe-clay is seldom a good gold-bearing bottom. All the rocks run almost north and south—are in laminæ and on edge, like a ream of paper placed on its edge, not laid flat. Often you will find these different sort of bottoms in the same hole.
"We have done very little here for six weeks past in gold-finding, though we have worked hard. In the above time we have seen (three of us) the bottoms of ten holes, two of them upwards of twenty feet deep, and all turned out not worth the washing. We have just bottomed two others, nearly twenty feet deep; two or three days will show what it will turn out. In my hole I have to-day commenced mining; but I do not expect to see gold in any quantity till I get six or seven feet in. I took out a few pounds of gold about two months ago, but I am sorry to say that it is all spent, everything is so expensive. I have also been speculating foolishly in things I knew nothing about, and naturally got burned. I cannot, therefore, leave this till I have made a few pounds. By persevering at the digging, I have no doubt fortune will favour me at last. Spring, of course, is the best time for digging, so that it is not likely I shall be in New Zealand soon, unless my luck turns very soon."
SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
South Australia seemed about to be depopulated by the rush to the gold diggings of Victoria, when the happy idea was suggested of establishing an overland route, so as to give Port Adelaide the advantage of a gold escort. The following journal gives a better idea of the country and bush life than the most elaborate description:—
GOLD DIGGERS AT DINNER.
JOURNAL OVERLAND BETWEEN ADELAIDE AND MOUNT ALEXANDER.
Having conceived that a shorter and better route could be found between Adelaide and the Victoria gold-fields, and that the adoption of a regular escort of mounted police to bring the gold from the mines would be a benefit to South Australia, and his Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor having approved of the same, I received instructions on the 6th instant to proceed forthwith, and in obedience thereto left Adelaide on the 10th February, at nine o'clock, a.m.
During the day overtook numerous parties travelling overland in almost every description of vehicle; many were on foot, advancing with a firm step, and head erect, as if determined to face and surmount whatever hardships might cross their path. Arrived at Mount Barker at twelve o'clock, rested a couple of hours, and again started for the crossing-place at Wellington, which I reached at half-past seven, p.m.; thus making the distance in eight hours and a half, including the two hours' rest on the way. The present line of road between Mount Barker and the crossing-place on the Murray is very circuitous, and might be greatly improved by cutting a direct line across the scrub, starting from near Mr. Ray's station. I imagine that ten miles might thus be saved in the distance; and Corporal Hall, of the mounted police, who is stationed here, informs me that the ground is sound, and good travelling over. Overtook the police light cart at Langhorn's Creek, the driver of which had started from Adelaide the day previous, and was furnished with instructions to the officers in charge at Mount Gambier and Mosquito Creek police stations to join me without delay at Mount Alexander, to form an escort back to South Australia.
Wednesday, 11th.—The sun rose at twenty minutes past five. Got up early to prepare for the journey; saw the horses safely across the Murray; fitted pack-saddle to carry water, &c.; secured the services of an intelligent native, and rigged him out at the store with a new blanket, shirt, and half a pound of tobacco, with which he seemed highly delighted. The number of persons, horses, and carts daily crossing the ferry, is truly astonishing. I ascertained that no less than 1,234 passengers, 1,266 horses and bullocks, and 164 carriages of all descriptions passed during the month of February. The fees collected were £64 14s. 2½d.
Thursday, 12th.—Rose early; had the horses well fed and saddled. At seven o'clock made a final start; taking an east-south-east course; my party, consisting of myself, two constables, one native, and five horses, the extra one being used as a pack-horse to carry water and provisions. The morning cool and cloudy, and very favourable for travelling. During the first few miles I cut the surveyor's tracks several times; crossed extensive well-grassed plains, extending seven or eight miles; good travelling ground. Entered some low scrub, rather sandy; made for a scrubby-looking range, distant about ten miles. Following same course, came to a belt of shea-oaks (casuarina), with a little grass in the centre of a flat; here there is a splendid well, or cave, with abundance of water. The survey party had encamped at this spot, and had secured the top of the well by fixing a cask sawn in half. As we approached a number of bronze-winged pigeons flew from within. Watered the horses by means of my oiled calico tent, and pushed on, keeping same course towards two peaks. Halted for a few minutes in a valley amongst some light-looking sandy ranges; very little grass, no water. Native says water could be obtained by digging. Distance from last halting-place ten miles. Passed through heavy, sandy country, densely scrubby; saw some native signal fires to the north-east. The scrub became still more dense as we proceeded, and impeded our progress greatly; added to this, the pack became every moment entangled in the branches, so that towards night I found myself forced to fall back upon the beaten track which cuts that part of the desert known as the Hundred Mile Scrub. Made the road at dusk, but saw no signs of the survey party having passed. Pushed on about a mile further, and encamped amongst some shea-oaks, honeysuckles, and a variety of shrubs, with plenty of grass, and a good supply of water. Shortly after encamping, two drays belonging to the survey party came up, the drivers of which informed me that the rest of their party were sinking a well, about ten miles back, in a well-grassed patch of country of about fifty acres in extent, well wooded. Doubts were, however, entertained as to their succeeding in obtaining water. They had already sunk twenty feet. Wrote a letter to the Deputy Surveyor-General, acquainting him with the object of my journey, and enclosing a copy of the Colonial Secretary's letter, addressed to me on the subject. Distance travelled this day, thirty miles.
Friday, 13th.—A drizzling rain during the night, which soaked us completely; left camping-place by eight o'clock; traversed extensive open country, sandy, and covered with low bush or heath. About four and a half miles from last camp found water in three different spots amongst the shea-oaks. Numerous remarkable granite rocks crop out of the ground near this, and will not fail to indicate the precise spot to travellers. The wells can be much improved by deepening. At noon halted to refresh the horses in a flat, with a fine spring of water, good feed, convenient halting-place. The road to-day I found very heavy on account of the sandy nature of the soil; the heat of the sun excessive. Rested two hours, and pushed on; distance from last camp, sixteen and a half miles; horses much refreshed; two and a half miles further, again found water and feed; five miles more, discovered another well—the latter requires deepening and cleaning, however, before it is made available. Observed the tracks round the wells of a great number of emus; the bronze-winged pigeon is likewise seen about the water—a sure indication that that great desideratum to the wearied traveller is at hand. Passed two or three small plains well grassed, containing from fifty to one hundred acres, surrounded with scrub—no water; possibly it could be obtained by sinking, as the soil differs from the generality of that found in the scrub: it is of a rich black loam, and might be made useful for growing hay and other produce. Encamped for the night amongst the shea-oaks; here two or three wells have been sunk in which we found abundance of water. This spot makes an excellent camping-place, as there is plenty of feed for the horses: distance, forty miles.
Saturday, 14th.—Morning cloudy; fine travelling weather. Got up early; not much refreshed, however, in consequence of having been disturbed by the howling of the native dogs, which were prowling about our camp. These animals are perfectly harmless, and have never been known to attack any one. It would be well, however, for bushmen to drive them off when heard in the vicinity of their camp, as they are apt to gnaw the tethers, and thereby loosen the horses: a good, useful kangaroo-dog will always scare them away. Moved off from the camp at six o'clock, a.m.: on emerging from the scrub which surrounded our camp, we entered a large plain, covered with heath, extending to the eastward, as far as the eye could reach, bounded by a ridge to the north-north-east—a conspicuous hill bearing east-south-east, near which, the native informs me, there is a sheep-station: steered direct for it. The road passes at its base, and winds round to the left. The road, although sandy, is much less so than yesterday. I noticed a great variety of new shrubs, one in particular was pointed out to me by my sable companion—he informed me it bore a fruit in winter which the natives are very fond of; it is sweet-tasted like sugar. Saw an emu quietly feeding in the plains. As soon as it noticed us it made off, and would in a few moments have been out of sight, but old Cusack commenced whistling in a peculiar manner, which, to my surprise and great amusement, not only put a stop to its further retreat, but actually brought it back to within a few yards. After surveying us for a few moments, it again started off at a wonderful speed. I have frequently in my bush excursions ridden after this extraordinary bird, but although well mounted, seldom succeeded in overtaking it; it gains fresh impetus at every stride. Reached the hill above described; distance from our last encamping ground, fifteen miles. Observed the fresh tracks of sheep; but being anxious not to delay a moment I did not attempt to look for the station. This will make a good halting-place for travellers, as there is plenty of wood, grass, and water. The road after this is extremely heavy, the soil being composed of sand. Arrived at a deserted sheep-station; the feed luxurious, the country well timbered with gum, shea-oak, blackwood, and other trees. Distance from hill where sheep-tracks seen, fifteen miles. I may here remark, that on reaching this station the desert ends. The traveller will find abundance of feed and water in a well wherewith to recruit his horse before again proceeding on his journey. Marked a tree, and left a note for Mr. M'Laren, directing him where to find water. Altered my course to the east, and pushed on to Mr. Scott's station; distance, eight miles. Had dinner, resumed my journey, and encamped at the Woolshed Station. This station is supplied with excellent water from a chain of deep water-holes; water permanent.
Sunday, 15th.—Finding the water-kegs were very inconvenient (causing considerable delay in my progress), and as water could now be obtained with certainty, I determined upon leaving them at the station until my return. Resumed my journey at seven o'clock, after our morning meal. Passed through the same sort of country—rich and fertile; water at intervals at from three to five miles
THE EMU.
My attention was drawn to a very graceful tree (swamp-oak) quite peculiar to this locality; the leaf is similar to that of the casuarina, with this exception, that the former stands erect, whereas the latter droops; it is likewise dissimilar in taste—the one being acid and the other bitter: the wood is very hard, and is much used by the settlers for fencing and building purposes. Crossed the Boundary line at eight miles. One mile to the eastward of the line Messrs. Lloyd and Young have a station. I called, but both were from home. Moved on, and halted two hours at one of their out-stations, and had dinner. At this, as well as at every other station I have called at, a woman "hutkeeps," while the husband is minding the sheep. Hutkeepers, shepherds, and other labourers are as difficult to be obtained in this province as in South Australia; all are gold-digging mad. Continued an easterly course; came to a lagoon, and had to turn to the north in order to head it. The country through which I rode this day surpasses anything I have met with in South Australia; vast extensive plains, with luxurious herbage, everywhere meet the eye: these are intersected by belts of fine timber of all kinds. In crossing one of the plains, saw a mob of wild cattle; no sooner did they perceive us than they started off, tearing over the ground and raising such clouds of dust, one might have imagined a herd of buffaloes. Came across old sheep-tracks; but could not spare time to look for the station. Suddenly came to a long lagoon, stretching to the north and south for several miles. After refreshing ourselves with a pannican of tea, pushed on, altering my course to the southward for some distance to head the swamp. As this delayed me considerably, and took me out of my course, I determined upon crossing, and made a dash accordingly. Succeeded, but found it boggy, and water rather deep, occasionally reaching to the saddle-flaps. I have not the least doubt but what this awkward spot can be avoided by going round. Same sort of country; occasionally undulating, well grassed, and timbered. Travelled till late, and encamped amongst some large timber, with abundance of grass. I deemed we had travelled this day thirty miles.
Monday, 16th.—Horses are looking well and keep in good condition. One or two of them have unfortunately sore backs—a matter which, particularly in hot weather, is difficult to guard against on long journeys. Saddled the horses and started, keeping my old course; heard the bark of a dog, and on going towards it found that we had encamped within a mile of one of Major Firebrace's out-stations (sheep); here there is a permanent spring of splendid water. Heat of the sun dreadful. Reached a deserted sheep-station, found water near the hut: distance from our camp, fifteen miles. Our course then took an east-south-east direction, across a heath, sandy and bad travelling. Mount Arapiles bearing south-east; followed the beaten track, and entered some scrub; slow travelling, heavy sand; this I regret to say continued for fifteen miles. I have since been informed that ten miles of this heavy part of the road can be avoided by continuing same course at the sheep-station, and not turning to the east-south-east, as I was directed to do by the hutkeeper at Major Firebrace's station. By following the line which I now indicate, Mr. Patterson's station on the Wimmera will be made, and from thence a track will be found leading to the village of Horsham, which is on the direct route to Mount Alexander (see map.) After leaving the scrub we came out on some open country, near two salt lakes, Mount Arapiles distant ten miles. Entered some thickly-timbered country, well grassed, halted for two hours to refresh the horses at some water which we found in a swamp on the left of the road; ten minutes after resuming our journey crossed the Wimmera River. This is a fine stream, not unlike the Onkaparinga, near Hahndorf; the holes are, however, considerably larger and deeper,—some, I dare say, measure thirty yards in breadth and from two hundred to three hundred in length; the soil on either bank for miles, cannot, I am satisfied, be anywhere surpassed for its fertility and richness. Passed the station of Messrs. Baily and Hamilton, and moved on, keeping along the north bank of the river to Major Firebrace's station. The Major was from home; his son, however, hospitably entertained me and my party; to him I feel much indebted for a great deal of valuable information respecting the line of route which we have still to travel. Distance made this day, thirty-five miles. At night it thundered and lightened considerably, which greatly cooled the air; heavy drops of rain fell.
Tuesday, 17th.—I got up very early and left the house without disturbing the family, and started. The regular beaten overland road passes close to this station; we got upon it and followed it the whole of the day; it is rather circuitous, as it follows the windings of the river: by a little observation many miles might be saved during a day's journey. Passed several fine stations. The homestead is invariably enclosed by a substantial fence, and stands in the centre of a paddock of from 300 or 400 acres. From inquiries which I made, I find that none of the land belongs to the squatters; they rent it from the Crown with a pre-emptive right of purchase. Passed numerous parties on their way to the diggings, some encamped, others travelling. Came to the village of Horsham, distant twelve miles from the station of Major Firebrace; after a stay of a few minutes at the "pub," resumed my journey. Here is a police-station, a store, a blacksmith, and one or two wooden houses. Travelled during the day pretty smartly, and arrived about nine o'clock, p.m. at the village of Glenarchy. The village is similar to Horsham, about the same size, and containing about the same number of houses. I was forced, much against my inclination, to pass the night at the inn, in consequence of the want of feed in the neighbourhood. I did not at first like the appearance of either the building or the inmates, and in truth I was not deceived; the accommodation was bad, beds filthy, full of bugs, charges exorbitant, and extremely uncivil withal. The rascally hostler had the impudence (as I was giving directions about the feeding of my horses) coolly to tell me to feed them myself! Distance made, forty-four miles.
Wednesday, 18th.—Made rather a late start; obliged to ride pack-horse, in consequence of my own having a galled back. On reaching Mr. Green's station, distant twelve miles from Glenarchy, turned off to left, to avoid the village of Burnbank, thereby saving a distance of twenty miles to Mount Alexander: indicated the spot by marking a gum tree with the words, "Take to the left." This track leads through a well-watered country, with plenty of grass, to the Navarre Inn, kept by a person named Mackoy, distant from Glenarchy thirteen miles. A glance at the map will at once point out how the saving is effected. Rested the horses two hours, and once more moved on; a high range in the distance, beautiful in appearance, much resembling the Mount Lofty Range of South Australia. On leaving the inn the road became very circuitous; it winds by the bank of a creek, well watered, into the heart of the mountains: good travelling—almost level.
Thursday, 19th.—Up by the break of day; felt much refreshed, having slept soundly all night; effected a good start at half-past six o'clock; road led through a beautiful valley, with a creek meandering through it; the country then became undulating, exceedingly beautiful and romantic, the rising slopes and valleys studded here and there with shrubs of every description, amongst which I noticed the silver wattle, or Van Diemen's Land acacia, predominating. Passed Mr. M'Kinnon's sheep station nine miles; country more hilly, densely timbered; the stringy bark, blue and white gum, box, and many other trees familiar to a South Australian, are found in the hills. Crossed a creek near the station of . I could not help remarking that the water in all the creeks, as I get nearer and nearer to Mount Alexander, is of a singularly dark colour, perfectly clear, however, when taken out, and sweet tasted. Query—can this be an indication of gold? During the day passed through open forest land, plains, and now and again densely timbered flats of from three to four miles in extent. Made Mr. Bucknall's station; crossed a large creek a few hundred yards below the house. The country here, as we emerged from the thick timber, changed like magic; hills appeared in our front extending to the right and left for miles, grassy, but perfectly bare of a single tree; these again were bounded to the east and south-east by a more distant, remarkable, high-peaked range, to all appearance of the same character. Turning the head to the north-east a ridge, thickly wooded, similar to that already described, is seen, behind which rises the already far-famed Mount Alexander; entered the thick wood seen sometime back; again emerged into a large plain, crossing which we came to the River Loddon, where the diggings commence, thus accomplishing the journey between the Murray and it in eight days. Encamped on the east bank of the river; good feed and water; distance travelled this stage, fifty-nine miles.
Friday, 20th.—Visited Forest Creek and Adelaide Gully; conversed with many of the South Australian gold seekers, and informed them of the purport of my visit; shortly after it was made known throughout the diggings that I had arrived, I was met by crowds, who expressed their delight at the success which I had had in making so quick a journey, at the news I was bearer of, and at the establishment of a mounted escort to convey the gold to Adelaide. I have since been assured that hundreds will remit their hard-earned earnings by the present escort, and will so continue if it be regularly established, instead of having to send it to Melbourne, or otherwise dispose of it, at a shameful loss, to agents who reside at the mines. It affords me much pleasure to note that the Adelaide diggers in general have obtained, and still continue to obtain, more gold-dust than others. The greatest good feeling appears to prevail amongst them, and I can confidently assert that nine out of ten will, as soon as possible, return to settle permanently in South Australia, rather than remain in Victoria.
FROM BENDIGO TO MELBOURNE.
BY A RETURNED SYDNEY DIGGER.
Having disposed of the carts we set out on our journey with light hearts, although the day was excessively hot.
The first day, having had a late start, we only went as far as the junction of the road leading to Forest Creek.
You will recollect that we went up by the Kilmore road, which at that time, though by far the longest, was the best for drays. The road by which we came down, usually called the "Kyneton Road," is much shorter, and at all times better for foot-men, in consequence of the great number of accommodation houses which are situated along the whole road at about the rate of one to every two or three miles. The roads at this time of the year are in splendid condition, and, as there is abundance of grass and water, nothing can be more agreeable than travelling on them. There is no lack of public-houses, moreover, where the weary traveller may solace himself with a cheering cup, but for which he has to pay at rather a high rate: spirits and beer at nearly all the inns are 1s. 6d. per glass. Provisions, too, are far dearer than at the diggings. The four-pound loaf is 5s., and beef is 9d. per pound at the Bush Inn, which is only thirty-six miles from Melbourne.
On Wednesday morning we were up by day-break and on the road. We walked ten miles to the Robert Burns hotel, where we had breakfast, which, considering the price of things, was not very dear, being only 3s. Here we got a lift in a cart for £1 each as far as the Broad Meadow, which is within ten miles of Melbourne. The number of people whom we met on their way to the diggings was astonishing. Most of them were evidently new arrivals; and being unaccustomed to carrying heavy swags, many of them appeared to be quite worn out. More than one-half of those whom we met wore veils, and at a distance might easily be mistaken for women.
Women, too, there were in abundance bound for the gold-fields, many of them with large families, seemingly bent upon making the diggings their home for some time. The country through which we passed was most beautiful, being luxuriantly grassed and but lightly timbered. In fact it might be described as a succession of undulating plains, there being scarcely trees enough to relieve the scenery from the charge of monotony. We had dinner at the Columbine where there is a township, which seems rapidly progressing; wooden houses, some of them very elegant, springing up in all directions. The Columbine was running at the time with a considerable body of water, which was as clear as crystal. In the middle of summer, however, the country is completely parched up, and there is not a drop of water to be had on the road for miles. The government has at length bestirred itself with regard to the road, and there are now numerous parties at work metalling it. When approaching Kyneton, we met six men drawing a laden cart, arranged in the form of a wedge, one leading, two in the middle and three behind. This is no uncommon thing to see on the diggings, but it is rather unusual on the roads from Melbourne. They appeared to be a party of recent arrivals from England. We passed through Kyneton, which, since the diggings have commenced, has been making considerable progress, being the principal town between them and Melbourne. About three miles from Kyneton is Carlsruhe, where there is a large police-station. As we were passing there was a sergeant drilling about a dozen recruits, most of them boys, in every variety of costume, from the blue shirt to almost no shirt at all; but in this respect they are only like the rest of the Victorian police. It was impossible to refrain from laughter while watching their movements, which disrespect on our part caused the sergeant to look austere, although he said nothing. After going about three miles beyond Carlsruhe we camped for the night.
"Thursday morning we were on the road as soon as we had breakfast, and after travelling about three miles came to the entrance of the "Black Forest," of evil memory. During the more lawless days of the Victorian gold diggings, it was the custom for travellers to wait on the verge of the forest until a sufficient number were collected to insure their passage through it in safety. Latterly, however, the place, although offering uncommon opportunities of concealment to the bushranger, has become so quiet, that no more fear is entertained by those who pass through it than on any other portion of the road. The Black Forest well deserves its name, for it is as gloomy a place as the imagination could well conceive. It is situated at the foot of Mount Macedon, and extends for several miles in all directions. The timber, chiefly stringy-bark, is very large—indeed by far the largest that I saw in Port Phillip. The stringy-bark of itself is a dismal looking tree, and is here more so, from having its trunk blackened with fire. The underwood, too, is very thick, which adds to the gloom of the forest. Some years ago there were great fires in several parts of Victoria, which occasioned an immense destruction of life and property. The day on which the fire took place, or in which it was at the highest pitch, is still known in Port Phillip by the name of Black Thursday. Traces of this fire are to be seen in several other localities beside the Black Forest. The part of the forest through which we passed was about twelve miles across, commencing at a place called Wood's End and ending at the Bush Inn. There are now several accommodation houses in the forest, which were much needed.
The road through the forest was crowded with teams; and it certainly would have been a difficult matter for any gang of bushrangers to have committed any depredations, as they would have been obliged to "stick up" hundreds of drays. One of my companions counted no less than seventy-five drays within the space of a mile. It must be taken into consideration, also, that there were three or four other roads to the diggings, on all of which the traffic was nearly as great as on that of which I am speaking. After leaving the Bush Inn you again come into an open country of trap formation. The soil, though uncultivated, is evidently fertile, and would be admirably adapted to the cultivation of the vine. The most peculiar feature of the scene is Mount Macedon, which is visible both from Melbourne and the diggings, rising almost abruptly from the surrounding country. In consequence of its vicinity to Mount Macedon, scarcely a day passes on which more or less rain does not fall in the Black Forest,—a fact which was exemplified when we passed through it. The trees in many places after leaving the forest are dying out, and as there are no new ones springing up to replace them, it seems probable that in time a great portion of Victoria will be quite destitute of timber. From Spring Hill, distant about twenty-seven miles from Melbourne, there is a splendid view over Keilor Plains, which are clothed with the most luxuriant verdure. The view extends as far as the sea coast, and on a clear day the shipping in William's Town can be distinctly seen. We camped this night at Jackson's Creek, where there was the greatest abundance of feed and excellent water.
Friday morning was cold and rainy, and as we had to travel through an open country, we found it impossible to keep ourselves warm. We crossed the Deep Creek, which flows between banks of a great height, and in the winter season carries all before it. The country is of granitic formation, and along the banks of the creek highly picturesque, though tame enough everywhere else. What forcibly strikes the traveller in Victoria is the entirely uncultivated state of the country, and the almost total want of gardens and orchards, notwithstanding the fertility of the greater portion of the soil. In this respect, also, the contrast between Melbourne and Sydney is very unfavourable to the former, the numerous gardens and shrubberies in and around Sydney giving it an infinitely superior and more delightful appearance than Melbourne. From the Deep Creek you have a first-rate view of the shipping at William's Town, which to one coming from the interior is a more agreeable sight than could be imagined. Leaving the drays at the Broad Meadow, we struck across the country until we came to the old Sydney road, which we followed until we arrived at Flemington, where we met the governor starting on a tour through the gold-fields. After leaving Flemington, which is about three miles from Melbourne, if you have been the road before, you are perfectly bewildered at the change that has taken place in a short space of time. Wooden houses and tents have arisen as it were by the power of Aladdin's lamp, and have completely altered the appearance of the scene.
Now you begin also to see some of the bustle that necessarily characterises such a stirring place as Melbourne. You feel yourself, moreover, safer, as it were, than previously, although I doubt if you have any reason for so doing. However, your plan is to consider every man as a rogue you may meet between Bendigo and the Flag-staff. You now begin to get fairly in the city, and after a few minutes' walk you are in Collins Street, the principal street of Melbourne. Here you witness such a bustling scene as you are altogether unprepared for, notwithstanding your previously conceived opinions of the great traffic that must exist in Melbourne. It is literally impossible to walk through the streets without being jostled and squeezed at every step; and if you for a moment deviate from the foot-path, you run the most imminent risk of being knocked down by a cart or cab, which completely block up the streets. Melbourne is swarmed with Jews, and being easily recognised as a gold-digger as you are walking down the streets, you are every half-dozen yards accosted by them something in the following style:—"Any gold tor sale, sir?" "£3 10s. to-day for gold, mate." "I say, old fellow, have you got any gold to sell?"—the salutation being framed according to their different ideas of which will be most acceptable, the familiar or the polite style. You are so pestered with these wasps, that you are compelled at length, in self-defence, to return them some saucy answer, which, being well accustomed to, they receive with the most philosophical indifference. Next you take a stroll along the wharves, where goods of every description are lying piled in immense heaps, and completely exposed to the destructive influence of the weather. The wharves are, if possible, more crowded than the streets, and if not particularly alive to your own safety, you stand every chance of taking a cold bath in the Yarra.
Here and there are groups collected around some recent arrivals by the English vessels, who are selling off their superfluous goods, most of which they are obliged to dispose of at a loss. But what matters this? They have reached this El Dorado, the land of their long-cherished hopes. Look now to the south side of the Yarra, and there you will see a perfect city of tents. It is estimated that there are between three and four thousand individuals living there, and there certainly cannot be less. These are all new arrivals, sojourning here for a time, until they resolve upon whether they shall go to some employment, or shape their course for the gold-fields. Everywhere you go in this golden city your olfactory senses are disagreeably assailed with almost unbearable stenches, which must at no distant period occasion some frightful epidemic. The influenza is now raging in Melbourne to an unusual extent, and the great numbers of funerals that take place daily tell but too sadly the "common tale" of humanity. It needs no great wight to foretel that some terrible disasters will befal Melbourne if the people do not speedily bestir themselves to introduce a better state of social affairs.
To-day I was at the Victoria Gold Escort Company's office,—an establishment admirably conducted. Those holding escort receipts may obtain their gold or money in a few hours after the escort arrives, whereas at the government office there are the most unnecessary and provoking delays. The name of the depositor is not written in the receipts given by the company, but is transcribed into a book kept for that purpose, together with the amount said to be deposited. The receipt merely states that so many ounces or pounds are said to be in the bag, neither money nor gold being counted or weighed. The bag is tied and sealed, and received thus by the depositor, the company not holding themselves in any way responsible for the amount. Omitting the depositor's name in the receipt is obviously an excellent plan, and prevents a great deal of fraud.
I have been employed the greater part of the day in looking out for a vessel. So many people are hurrying home just now that it is a matter of some difficulty, notwithstanding the number of vessels laid on for Sydney, to obtain a passage for that port. I have at length obtained one in the Wild Irish Girl, the passage-money being £9, which is an advance of £3 on what the cabin passages were formerly.
With these extracts, which afford so perfect an idea of the life and the land of the diggers, we conclude our attempt to describe the Australian Gold Regions. New creeks, rivers, and mountains are daily announced as the sites of inexhaustible treasures, the last being generally for a time considered the richest. The Ovens, near the River Murray, is now exciting a good deal of attention in New South Wales, and has caused the desertion of localities previously in great repute,[1] while the discovery of two enormous nuggets at Ballarat has caused a vast re-emigration to the first discovered Victorian gold-field.
The South Australians have not yet been successful in discovering a gold-field worth working. At Echunga 1,208 licences were in the first instance issued, but of these only 166 were renewed once, only 64 twice, and 7 three times. At the last accounts 180 persons were at work.
The following is a list of the outfit required for four gold diggers. The cradles sold in England are for the most part toys, not strong enough to bear rough work. English carts, forges, and pumps, unless made from colonial directions, are not worth their freight for real use:—
| TOOLS. | £. | s. | d. |
| One cradle | 1 | 10 | 0 |
| One heavy crowbar | 0 | 10 | 0 |
| Six picks, with one end pointed and the other square | 0 | 18 | 0 |
| A water-lifter | 0 | 2 | 6 |
| Two shovels | 0 | 10 | 0 |
| £. | s. | d. | |
| Two zinc buckets | 0 | 8 | 0 |
| Two tin milk-dishes | 0 | 5 | 0 |
| One axe | 0 | 4 | 6 |
| Nails, tacks, cords, tomahawk, &c. &c | 1 | 0 | 0 |
UTENSILS. | |||
| Tarpaulin | 7 | 0 | 0 |
| Camp oven | 0 | 10 | 6 |
| Iron pot, kettle, quart pots, plates, &c. &c. | 1 | 2 | 10 |
To this must be added the cost of a tent; and at any of the Victoria diggings, a cart, a team, and provisions for six months.
While New South Wales and Victoria were becoming wealthy and populous on the strength of their gold-fields, the able-bodied population of South Australia proceeded en masse to the neighbouring colonies. Two measures wisely and promptly adopted by the local government and the Legislative Council saved South Australia. By an act, rapidly passed through the legislature, in January, 1852, gold of 22 carats was made a legal tender at the banks at the rate of £3 11s. per ounce against an issue of bank-notes. It thus became the interest of South Australian diggers to bring the produce of their labour to their own colony, there to employ it in purchasing land at government sales, in paying duties on imports, and in other modes in which it was worth more money than in the gold provinces. South Australia was the first province to strike gold tokens, which passed there for twenty shillings, and in England are worth about twenty-three shillings.
At the same time that the Bullion Act was passed, the overland route to Mount Alexander was opened, and a government escort was established.
The system prevalent in South Australia of selling land in small lots in quantities always in advance of demand, afforded a further inducement to the return of gold-diggers to settle on small farms. The results have been most satisfactory; a regular export trade in agricultural produce has been established between Port Adelaide and the gold colonies.
The Legislature of New South Wales have passed a Gold Mining Act, of which the following are the most important clauses:—
REMOVING GOODS.
fees or royalties. Clause 2 gives power to the executive to grant leases or licences for gold mining, in regard to auriferous tracts, for twenty-one years; and clause 10 authorises the demand of a fee, not exceeding £25, from any applicant for quartz vein or auriferous tracts, which is to be returned if his application is not granted. Clause 3 gives power to suspend pastoral leases or licences, in so far as may be necessary to mining operations, upon the runs to which these leases or licences pertain, and to make compensation for such suspension according to a previously established rule. Clause 4. No sort of occupation may be carried on within any auriferous tract of crown lands without licence except the pastoral and agricultural. Women not mining, and children under fourteen years of age, are exempt from this rule. Clause 11. Persons employed in making tunnels or drains are to be permitted, on condition that they give security that they will pay the due royalty upon any gold they may accidentally find in the course of their work. Clause 9 allows a half-licence to be taken after the fifteenth day of any month, the applicant not having been guilty of anything during the previous half month to furnish a sufficient ground of objection.
An idea of the financial importance of the gold exports may be gathered from figures:—
| Gold exports to 3rd February | 1,088,244 | ounces |
| At 70s. per ounce | £3,850,000 | |
| Licences issued in 1852 | 22,500 |
| Gold exported to 30th January | 2,625,820 | ounces |
| At 70s. per ounce | £3,200,000 |
| 1850. | 1851. | 1852. | |||||||
| LABOUR. | £ | s. | d. | £ | s. | d. | £ | s. | d. |
| labourers per week | 0 | 11 | 0 | 0 | 17 | 6 | 2 | 14 | 6 |
| Shepherds, with rations, per annum | 23 | 0 | 0 | 29 | 0 | 0 | 38 | 0 | 0 |
| Blacksmith's ditto | 47 | 10 | 0 | 55 | 0 | 0 | 65 | 0 | 0 |
| General useful servants, ditto | 28 | 0 | 0 | 38 | 0 | 0 | 57 | 10 | 0 |
| Carpenters per day | 0 | 4 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 0 | 1 | 2 | 6 |
| FEMALE SERVANTS. | |||||||||
| Thorough servants, per annum | 15 | 0 | 0 | 17 | 0 | 0 | 27 | 10 | 0 |
| Cooks, ditto | 18 | 0 | 0 | 20 | 0 | 0 | 42 | 10 | 0 |
| Nursemaids, ditto | 9 | 0 | 0 | 17 | 0 | 0 | 23 | 0 | 0 |
| PROVISIONS. | |||||||||
| Beer ale per hogshead | 4 | 10 | 0 | 5 | 10 | 0 | 6 | 15 | 0 |
| Tea, hyson skin, per chest | 2 | 9 | 0 | 3 | 10 | 0 | 3 | 15 | 0 |
| Coffee Java, per lb. | 0 | 0 | 5½ | 0 | 0 | 6 | 0 | 0 | 11 |
| Sugar refined per lb. | 0 | 0 | 4½ | 0 | 0 | 7 | 0 | 0 | 9 |
| Flour,[2] fine, per ton | 17 | 10 | 0 | 25 | 4 | 0 | |||
| Bread, per 4lb. loaf | 0 | 0 | 7 | 0 | 1 | 6 | |||
| Rice Java per ton | 9 | 0 | 0 | 13 | 10 | 0 | |||
| Cabbages, per dozen | 0 | 1 | 6 | 0 | 7 | 0 | |||
| Gooseberries, per quart | 0 | 0 | 6 | 0 | 2 | 0 | |||
| Cherries per lb. | 0 | 1 | 3 | 0 | 4 | 0 | |||
| Fowls, per pair | 0 | 4 | 0 | 1 | 4 | 0 | |||
| Geese and Turkeys, each | 0 | 6 | 0 | 1 | 15 | 0 | |||
| Sheep, wethers, each | 0 | 6 | 6 | 0 | 15 | 0 | |||
| Cows, each | 2 | 5 | 0 | 4 | 17 | 6 | |||
| Horses, hacks | 7 | 0 | 0 | 8 | 0 | 0 | 17 | 10 | 0 |
The Melbourne Argus of January 3 estimates the number of diggers at the Victoria Mines at 100,000, earning on an average an ounce per man per week.
The forebodings of the pastoral proprietors, who saw in the gold discoveries the desertion of all their labourers and the destruction of their flocks, have not been realised. A very large per centage of the armies of emigrants who are daily landing on the shores of Australia either find themselves prevented from taking to the pursuit which led them to emigrate, by the expense and toil of the journey to the interior; or, after having tried gold-digging, are compelled to abandon labour harder than they can endure. These disappointed ones fall back upon the staple employments of the colony, and either turn farmers or accept situations as gardeners, shepherds, agricultural labourers, &c.
We have every reason to believe that while the great prizes of the gold-fields are suffered to attract a steady stream of self-supporting emigration, the overplus, unfit for such a laborious occupation, will be sufficient to maintain the flocks of sheep and herds of cattle which have hitherto supplied in wool and tallow the principal exports of the gold colonies.
The first effect of gold mining has been to give a value, in the shape of beef and mutton, to sheep and cattle, which had previously been only worth money to shear or boil down. Another result will be the establishment of towns and villages, surrounded by agricultural farms, in districts which, under the pastoral system, seemed condemned to perpetual barrenness and solitude. The question of opening the navigation of the Murray, by clearing away shoals, rocks, and snags, will perhaps be successfully solved by the gold-diggings at Albury.
If these anticipations be realised, gold will prove a most valuable agent in stimulating colonisation. Every gold-digger gives occupation to at least three other men, in feeding him, clothing him, and conveying backwards and forwards what he produces, and what he consumes. The profits on meat lately given to the dogs supports many a butcher in a gold district, and land only used by sheep becomes worth the toil of tillage.
It is a most favourable feature of the Australian gold-fields, that they are within reach of settled communities, surrounded by live beef and mutton, and by land of the best quality, which only needs the plough and the hoe, roughly handled, to produce great crops of wheat, maize, and every green vegetable. These lands will not remain untilled.
The Australian gold-digger, unlike the Californian, has no sooner filled his pockets than he sets to work to settle his wife comfortably in a neat cottage with a garden, reserving the chances of another visit to the mines if he should find more capital needful.
GOLD-SEEKERS' GRAVES ON THE TURON.
- ↑ Mr. Stutchbury, the government geologist, found in the Cudgegong River small specimens of ruby, sapphire and chrysolite, topaz, hyacinth, amethyst, and cairngorm, and expects to find emerald and aqua marine.
- ↑ Flour is usually sold in Melbourne by the ton of 2,000 lbs., instead of 2,240 lbs., as in the United Kingdom. If reckoned by the ton of 2,000 lbs., the price is respectively £15 and £22 10s.