Travels and Discoveries in the Levant/Volume 1/Letter XIX
XIX.
Rhodes, October 10, 1853.
On the 30th of August I was agreeably surprised by a visit from the "Firebrand," on her way south to the coast of Syria. Lord Carlisle was on board, and was so delighted with Rhodes, that I persuaded him to be my guest till the return of the "Firebrand." We had a grand picnic at the beautiful fountain at Villa Nova, where I entertained the officers of the "Firebrand" with a lamb roasted whole, some pale ale, and sundry panniersful of water-melons and grapes from the neighbouring village.
On remounting our mules to return, the more adventurous of the party attempted, greatly to the horror of the muleteers, to ride cross-country. The case of Midshipman versus Mule was extremely well argued on both sides, and in spite of wooden pack- saddles, chain bridles, and rope stirrups. Midshipman generally succeeded in carrying his point by the persuasive influence of a big stick.
After staying one day, the "Firebrand" left us. The next morning, to my great concern and dismay, Lord Carlisle became alarmingly ill. I sent for the doctor of the Quarantine, an Italian enjoying some repute at Rhodes, who, after watching his patient for three days, pronounced the disease to be small-pox. I immediately wrote to Smyrna for Dr. McCraith, who, I am happy to say, arrived by the next steamer. The first fortnight of the illness was an anxious time for me; for I very soon perceived that the Italian doctor, alarmed at having so great a charge as the life of an English Milord in his hands, grew nervous and indecisive in his measures. Fortunately the disease is one which is often best let alone; and thus the strenna inertia of the Rhodian Hippokrates probably saved Lord Carlisle's life.
When Dr. McCraith arrived, lie found his patient rapidly approaching convalescence, and after a glance at him, ordered a roast partridge and a glass of sherry. Great was the consternation of the Rhodian doctor, who had been sedulously withdrawing all nourish- ment but tisanes. "Dio mio," he said to me, "vino! e pernice! Milord will never bear all this strong food."
When, in the course of a few days, he saw Milord walking about quite well, he did what doctors have not always the candour to do, confessed that he was utterly mistaken, and that the constitution of an Englishman was to him a mystery.
I had written to Lord Stratford and Admiral Dundas to tell them of Lord Carlisle's illness. The consequence was that soon after Dr. McCraith's arrival came a steamer from the Admiral bringing Dr. Rees, the chief surgeon from the "Britannia." Nor was this all, for Dr. Sandwith, hearing at Constantinople of Lord Carlisle's illness, came at once to tend him; so that the Rhodian Turks began to wonder what manner of man my guest could be who had so many doctors at his beck and call.
Small-pox is very prevalent in this part of Turkey, particularly in Asia Minor, where whole villages are swept away by it, and where children covered with pustules may be seen playing about the streets uncared for. The native population, both Turks and Greeks, has a prejudice against vaccination, though the Doctors attached to the Quarantine establishments take every means to introduce it.
Dr. McCraith, who is equally skilful as a surgeon and as a physician, very kindly offered to give medical advice to the poor of Rhodes gratis during his stay here. The fame of the great Smyrna ἰατρός soon spread half over the island, and the Consulate has been for some days thronged with the halt, lame, and blind of many villages.
Among the cases brought before Dr. McCraith was that of a young lady of thirteen, already married, and with a child in her arms, which from her own tender age she was unable to nourish. Among the causes of the degradation of the races in the Levant may be reckoned the unnaturally early marriages which are very common in many of these islands. At Calymnos girls generally marry at the age of twelve. The Greek Bishops might, if they chose, check this practice.
There seems to be a great tendency in the climate of Rhodes to ophthalmic diseases. Dr. McCraith found a good many cases of pterggium, which is a triangular web commencing in the edge of the cornea and spreading invards to the pupil. It may be removed by cutting.
Great was the astonishment of the natives at the results of various operations for cataract, harelip, &c. An old priest came from a distant village to have his thumb amputated, of which the bone was diseased. He bore the pain like an ancient Spartan, and when I met him in his native villas-e some weeks afterwards, overwhelmed me with gratitude, rakee, and snuff. "I go to the church every day," he said, "and offer four wax candles to the Panagia, two for my ἰατρός [Dr. McCraith], and two for my chelliby," meaning me.
At the end of the month, the "Firebrand" called again at Rhodes, and took Lord Carlisle on board. Captain Parker kindly conveyed me also as far as Calyninos, as I was anxious to explore the Greek cemetery there, with a view to excavation.
Here I took leave of my kind friend Lord Carlisle, and saw with regretful eyes the "Firebrand" get under weigh, leaving me suddenly bereft of all the pleasant associations of the last few days, and somewhat unnerved by their amenities for the rough life which, I knew, was in store for me. When I was landed in the harbour in the early morning, I remained like a waif thrown up on the sandy beach, seated on my carpet bag, and plunged in a reverie about home, from which I was roused by an Ionian, who very kindly came to offer me hospitality in his house.
In every island in the Archipelago there are stray Ionians; wherever there are Ionians there is litigation; and litigation is sure to come, sooner or later, within the action of the Consul. It is for these reasons that Consuls can so easily make their way in the most inhospitable villages of the Levant, where unprotected travellers might be left to starve.
I passed several days at Calymnos, examining the Greek cemetery at a place called Damos, and am about to report the result of my researches to Lord Stratford, who is so kind as to undertake to ask the Porte for a firman, if I think the ground at Calymnos sufficiently promising to make an excavation worth while.
I asked the Calymniotes what they thought, hoped, or feared in the present crisis, and they appeared to think that they were very well off at present, and would not suffer at all by the evils of war. "As long as we can sell our sponges," said these cannyislanders, "we don't care whether the Sultan makes war or not." The answer was a discreet one, but I doubt its sincerity. Just at this moment they would be afraid to show too much Hellenic sympathy, with an English ship of war anchored in their bay.