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Babcock’s Rules
for
MAH-JONGG

The Red Book of Rules

By
J. P. BABCOCK

SECOND EDITION

Revised and Enlarged, including full
code of official laws and examples of
illustrative hands

MAH-JONGG SALES COMPANY OF AMERICA
36 Spear St., San Francisco, California
Sole Distributors for
United States, Canada, and Mexico

SHANGHAI, CHINA
Mah-Jongg Company of China
Chinese Post Office Box No. 1

Copyright, 1920, 1922, by J. P. Babcock
Copyright, 1923, by Mah-Jongg Sales Company of America

Copyright in Great Britain


All rights reserved, including the
rights of translation into all foreign
languages, including the Scandinavian


First printing, September, 1920
Second printing, December, 1921
Third printing, May, 1922
Fourth printing, July, 1922
Fifth printing, October, 1922
Sixth printing, December, 1922
Seventh printing, February, 1923
Eighth printing, April, 1923
Ninth printing, August, 1923
Tenth printing, October, 1923
Eleventh printing, November, 1923

Printed in the United States of America

PREFACE

MAH-JONGG is a game developed by the author from the old Chinese game of 麻雀. This Chinese game itself was a gradual development of centuries of play in China.

The Chinese learn 麻雀 as children and consequently feel no need for a book of instructions or rules. The result has been that in the different sections of China innovations and deviations have been introduced to such an extent that today there is no recognized standard Chinese method of play throughout China. Nor is it possible to obtain in Chinese any codified laws and rules for the game, such as would be necessary for foreign play.

It was the author's intention to produce a game which would include many of the interesting features of the old Chinese game adapted to foreign thought and custom, and that would be so simplified and standardized in form that it could be easily mastered by a set of written rules.

In 1920 the English index numbers for the tiles were first introduced by the author and the first edition of these rules appeared. This game played with the English indexed tiles as covered by the author's rules was given the name of MAH-JONGG.

These rules for Mah-Jongg were written after a careful investigation and study of the many conflicting methods of play of the game of 麻雀, prevailing in different parts of China. As a result, Mah-Jongg not only embraces most of the interesting features of the Chinese game, but a number of changes and, from a foreign viewpoint, improvements have been introduced. These were the first rules in any language based on the old Chinese game of 麻雀, and this was the first attempt ever made to popularize this class of Oriental game among others than Chinese.

The success of the first edition has been attested by the rapidity with which players, who have never had the opportunity of seeing the game played, have been able to master the Standard Rules, and by the popularity of the game and the rules wherever the game has been taken up. These rules were adopted officially by the American Club, and by the Union Club of Shanghai, the latter an organization with Chinese, British, and American membership.

As a result of the first edition, Mah-Jongg attained great popularity among the foreign community in the treaty ports of China, and with their increased knowledge of the game and the interest aroused in China and other countries, there has arisen a demand for a more detailed and complete book on the subject. It is this demand which the following pages were designed to satisfy.

In this second edition, considerable attention has been given to such irregularities as may occur in the game, particularly when it is played by inexperienced players, and an attempt has been made to cover clearly all situations that may arise to perplex the new player.

It is to be hoped that this book will obviate for beginners the necessity of personal instruction and at the same time serve as a comprehensive reference authority for advanced players.

The reader may rest assured that for the small amount of time and effort required to master the elementary principles of the game, he will be many times repaid in the enjoyment he will derive from playing Mah-Jongg.

Shanghai, China.
1923

CONTENTS
Page
Preface iii
I. The Mah-Jongg Set 1
II. Rules of Play 7
III. Laws Governing Irregularities 31
IV. Standard Score Sheet for Mah-Jongg 34
V. Aids in Scoring for Mah-Jongg 38
VI. Examples for Scoring in Mah-Jongg 41
VII. Optional Scores 53
VIII. The Chinese Game 麻雀 63
IX. Variations of Mah-Jongg 83
X. Mah-Jongg With the Goofs or Seasons 87
XI. Mah-Jongg Pointers and Suggestions for Play 95
XII. Historical 110
Index 113
I
The Mah-Jongg Set

The Tiles: MAH-JONGG is played with a set of 136 pieces of bone or ivory with bamboo backs. The faces are engraved with designs in color. These pieces are referred to as "Tiles." There are thirty-four kinds of tiles and four of each kind make up the set.

Fig. 1. The Bamboo Suit

The thirty-four different kinds of tiles are as follows: First, there are three suits designated by "Bamboo," "Dots," and "Characters" (see Figs. 1, 2, and 3). Each of these three suits runs from one to nine. Thus, the various tiles are referred to as one bamboo, four dots, seven characters, etc. In the three suits, therefore, there are twenty-seven different kinds of tiles, four alike of each kind, making a total of 108.

Fig. 2. The Dot Suit

In addition there are the "Honor Tiles," consisting of the four Winds, the East, South, West, and North Winds (see Fig. 4), and also the tiles called the "Red Dragon," "Green Dragon," and the "White Dragon," or more simply Red, Green, and White (See Fig. 5). The Winds and Dragons total 28 tiles.

The beginner should study the tiles and be able to classify correctly all the tiles in the set before proceeding with the play. The design of the one bamboo (a bird) and the one dot (a large circle) should be noted carefully so that no confusion occurs in assigning these tiles to their proper suits.

Fig. 3. The Character Suit

Extra white tiles are included with each set for use in case a tile should be lost or damaged.[1] Care should be taken to set aside these extra white tiles before beginning the game—only four white tiles should be used in playing.


The Counters: Improved Standard Counters of Chinese style are furnished with each set, to be used for scoring. At

Fig. 4. The Four Winds

the close of each hand the winner receives counters from the three losers, who then receive from each other the difference between their scores, as explained in the rules.

Fig. 5. The Three Dragons

The counters furnished with the set have four values. Before play has started each of the four players receives

Points
Fig. 6
2 counters with five red dots (each 500 points) or 1000
Fig. 7
9 counters with one red dot (each 100 points) or 900
Fig. 8
8 counters with ten black dots (each 10 points) or 80
Fig. 9
10 counters with two black dots (each 2 points) or 20
The Counters 29 counters in all to each player 2000

The Dice: Two dice only are required in playing the game. An extra pair is supplied with each set to replace any that may be lost.


The Mingg and Wind Discs.

A small cylindrical box known as the "Mingg" is usually included with each set. This Mingg contains four Wind Discs.

These may or may not be used, but the Mingg will be

Fig. 10. Mingg, Four Wind Discs, and Dice
found useful to mark the position of East Wind during the play.

The use by the Chinese of the Mingg, and the four Wind Discs in drawing for seats and keeping track of the number of rounds played is explained fully under Chinese Methods of Play (Pages 63–67).


The Seasons: Eight extra tiles of special design, known as the "Seasons," are usually included with the MAH-JONGG set (see Fig. 38). The use of the Seasons is explained in Chapter 10. The Seasons are an innovation but lately introduced into the game, but their use has never become popular with the Chinese and they are not recommended for play.

II
Rules of Play

Formalities of Opening the Game: MAH-JONGG is usually played by four players, who always play as individuals and not as partners. (See Pages 83–85 for rules of three-handed, two-handed, and five-handed MAH-JONGG.)

The four players having been seated, the 136 pieces are placed face down on the table and thoroughly mixed or shuffled. Each player selects 34 pieces at random and arranges them in front of him face down in a row seventeen pieces long and two high. These four rows are then shoved forward to form a hollow square in the middle of the table to represent a Chinese city wall (see Fig. 11). Then each player throws the two dice in turn, the high throw indicating the first player, who is known as East Wind. East Wind is always the first player; to his right is South Wind, opposite him is West Wind, and to his left is North Wind. It will be noted that the order of direction is based upon the Chinese compass and differs from the Occidental custom.


Drawing for Seats: At the beginning of play any player has the right to demand that players draw for seats.


A Hand: A Hand begins with the shuffle and ends when one player completes his fourteen tiles for MAH-JONGG, or when a Draw Game is declared.

A Round: A Round is completed after each of the players has completed his turn as East. here are at least four Hands to each Round, but when East wins he continues as East, so that each Round contains an extra Hand for every time that East wins, and also for every "Draw Game" (Page 29).

Any number of Hands may be played, but before play begins it is usually decided to complete a certain number of Rounds or at an agreed time. If seats have been selected by draw, it is customary to draw again for positions upon the completion of an agreed number of Rounds, usually four.


Opening the Wall: This is decided by the Dice. The first player (East Wind) throws the two dice and the total number of spots on both dice indicates which one of the four players is to take the dice for the second throw, starting with East Wind as one and counting around the table in a counterclockwise direction up to twelve, the highest number that can be thrown with the two dice. Thus, if the two dice total 2, 6, or 10, South takes the dice; if 3, 7, or 11, West takes the dice; if 4, 8, or 12, North takes the dice; and if 5 or 9, East throws the dice again.

The second throw of the dice determines the exact spot at which the wall is to be opened. The player making this second throw of the dice adds his total to the total of the first throw and then counts off from the right end of his wall in a clockwise direction—from right to left—the number of pairs of tiles (one tile on another) indicated by the total of the two throws. He opens the wall at this point by taking out the last two tiles, called the "loose tiles," and laying them on the top of the wall to the right of the opening.

They then mark the "end of the wall" (see Figs. 11 and 12), and the Draw must proceed from the other side of the opening.

In the example shown in Fig. 11, on the first throw by East the two dice total 5. East then counts around the table

Fig. 11. The Wall Before Opening

in a counter-clockwise direction, beginning with himself as one, until he comes to five, which is East's own number. East then throws the two dice again and the second time they total seven. The total of the two throws is 12. East now begins at the right-hand end of his wall and counts off in a clockwise direction around the wall twelve pairs of tiles to the point at which the wall is to be opened.

East then opens the wall by removing the two tiles marked A and B and placing them on the top of the wall to the right of the opening (see Fig. 12). Note that the upper tile A is placed farther from the opening (see explanation on loose tiles under "Four of a Kind" on Page 17).

Should the total of the two throws exceed 17 it would be necessary to count on around the corner into the next wall to determine the exact spot to open.


The Draw: East then starts the Draw by taking the first two pairs (four tiles) to the left of the opening, followed

Fig. 12. The Wall After Opening

by South, West, and North, who each draw two pairs at a turn, going in a clockwise direction around the wall until each player has twelve tiles. On the fourth draw each player draws only one from the wall, making thirteen in each hand. East then draws another tile from the wall, making fourteen in his hand at the beginning of play.

For example, in Fig. 12 after the wall has been opened and the loose tiles are in place, East starts the Draw by taking the thirteenth and fourteenth pairs of tiles. South then draws the fifteenth and sixteenth pairs, West the seventeenth pair and the first pair around the corner and so on until each player has drawn in this way three times and has twelve tiles in his hand.

The wall now stands as shown in Fig. 13. Each player beginning with East now draws one more tile, and East draws an additional title, making 14 in East's hand and 13

Fig. 13. The Wall Before East's Last Draw

in the hands of the other three players. In actual practice in the four-handed game East draws his thirteenth and fourteenth tiles at the same time, by taking the first and third tile from the top layer of the wall. In the example shown in Fig. 13, East first draws the two tiles marked E; and South, West, and North each draws in turn his thirteenth tile, marked in Fig. 13 as S, W, and N, respectively.

Each player then sets up his tiles to form a hand, arranging the tiles in order of suits, with each player's hand concealed from the other three. (Fig. 14 shows an example of a table after the completion of the Draw and just prior to the beginning of play.)


Object of the Game: The tiles individually have no value except as they appear in scoring combinations in the

Fig. 14. The Wall After All Hands Are Drawn

hand. The object of the game is to be the first player to obtain by a series of draws and discards a complete hand containing as high scoring combinations as possible.


Complete Hand: Every Complete Hand is made up of four combinations of three (or four) and one pair, fourteen tiles in all, except that for each set of four of a kind, the hand must contain one tile more than fourteen. Each combination must be either three (or four) of a kind of the same suit or a sequence of three in the same suit, called a "Run." A complete hand may contain fours of a kind (see Page 17), but no sequences other than in combinations of three.

The hand usually consists of two parts, the concealed portion and the exposed portion. The concealed portion consists of tiles and combination of tiles, all of which have been drawn from the Wall. The exposed portion consists of combinations which have been completed by tiles taken from discards on the table (either by Punging or Chowing, see below) and have then been declared and laid face up on the table at the player's left. These exposed combinations are sometimes referred to as "combinations on the table" as distinct from the concealed or standing portion of the hand.

A complete hand may consist entirely of concealed combinations or entirely of exposed combinations, but is usually partly concealed and partly exposed.

A number of illustrations of complete hands are given under "Examples for Scoring in MAH-JONGG" (Pages 41–52).


The Play: East, with fourteen in his hand (see Fig. 14), having already drawn an extra tile from the wall, starts the game by discarding one of his fourteen tiles face up in the center of the table. South, if no other player Pungs and he himself does not take East's discard (see below), then draws one tile from the wall (marked "X" in Fig. 14) and discards one tile from his hand (or discards the tile he draws) face up in the center of the table, and so on, each player gradually improving his hand until one player completes his hand and wins, declaring "MAH-JONGG!"

The order of play is East, South, West, and North (counter-clockwise), but the tiles must be drawn from the wall in their proper order, in the opposite or clockwise direction.

Only one tile may be drawn or discarded at a time, each player discarding the tile which in his judgment is least useful to him in completing his hand or least likely to enable one of his opponents to win. A player may discard the same tile that he draws from the wall, if he so desires.

While not obligatory, yet as a courtesy to others, each player usually names his discard in placing it upon the table. Each discard should be placed face up where all may see it plainly and not tossed or shoved among other discards.

During the play, before each draw and after each discard, the total number of tiles held by each player, including both those in the concealed portion of the hand and those exposed, must always be thirteen; except that for every four of a kind a player holds, he will have one more tile than thirteen. If a player has declared two fours of a kind, he should therefore have in all fifteen tiles. This is during the play and prior to the completion of the hand for MAH-JONGG.

No player may draw from the wall until after the preceding player's discard has been laid face up on the table and quitted; nor may any player discard until after he has drawn, Punged, or Chowed. (See "Irregularities," Page 31.)

To Pung[2]: Should a tile be discarded and any player have a pair (or three) of this same tile, even though out of his own turn, he may "Pung," that is, he says "Pung" and takes this discarded tile, placing it with the pair (or three) from his own hand face up in front of him on the table, at his left, making three (or four) of a kind. He then discards from his hand to keep the number of his tiles correct (see Four of a Kind, Page 17).

Then the play carries on to the right of the one who has Punged (i. e., counter-clockwise). One or two players lose their turns to draw when a player Pungs out of the regular order of play.

For example, if North discards a tile which West Pungs, after West discards, North plays again and East and South have lost their turns.

After a Pung a player must discard and must not draw from the wall until his next turn.

A Pung can only be made for three of a kind (or four of a kind) and not for a Run (sequence), or a pair, except only at the end of the game when the player who Pungs requires only this one tile to complete his hand for game (MAH-JONGG). A Pung which completes a hand takes precedence over any other Pung.

A player may Pung even though the player at the right of the discarder may have drawn from the wall and looked at his drawn tile. But a reasonable amount of promptness is expected of each player and no player has a right to Pung a discarded tile after the next player has discarded. (See last paragraph under "The Play," Page 14). Nor may a player Pung after the next player has drawn and declared "MAH-JONGG" or drawn a loose tile after declaring four-of-a-kind or a goof (season).


To Chow: After one player discards, the player on his right, who has the next turn, has the option of taking the tile discarded to make the third of a Run (sequence) or the third to a pair or of drawing the next tile from the wall. If he takes the last discard from the board in this way to complete a Run, this is called "Chowing."

When a player Chows he must lay the three tiles face up on the table in front of him to his left (two tiles from his hand and the one from the board), and then discard one tile from his hand to keep the number of tiles correct.

Only the player to the right of the discarder (i. e., the one next in turn) has the right to Chow to complete a Run in this way. A Run consists of a sequence of three only.

After a Chow the player must discard and may not draw from the wall until his next turn.

When a tile is discarded and the next player has no combinations in his hand which entitle him to Pung or Chow he cannot take the tile discarded and must draw the next tile from the wall.

A player who wishes to Chow a tile must give way to another player who can Pung it, except when that tile completes his (the first player's) hand for MAH-JONGG.

If one player, who is entitled to Chow a discard for a Run, says "Chow" and picks it up, he will give way to another player who can Pung; this, even though the player who Pungs may be rather slow in claiming the Pung. For this reason it is usually advisable for the player who wishes to Chow to allow ample time before declaring his intention to Chow, so as to avoid disclosing his hand in case another player later claims the right to Pung. No player may claim the right to Pung after the player who Chows has discarded or exposed the two tiles from his hand.

All tiles discarded and lying face up in the middle of the table, except the last one discarded, are dead and cannot be used. The last tile discarded is the only one in play.

No tile taken from the board either by Punging or Chowing may be included in the concealed portion of the hand. These tiles are used to make up combinations which remain a part of the hand and are referred to as "Exposed Combinations" or as "Combinations on the Table," as distinct from "Concealed Combinations."

In order to avoid confusion each player should keep on his left, outside of the wall, that part of his hand which is exposed on the table. The hollow square inside of the wall is reserved for discards.


Four of a Kind: Should a player have three of a kind concealed in his hand and Pung a fourth of the same kind, the four tiles should be laid face up on the table and score as "four of a kind on the table." The player must then draw the first loose tile (Tile A in Fig. 14, i. e., if two loose tiles are on the end of the wall, he takes the one farther from the opening) to make up the correct number of tiles in his hand, after which he discards.

If a player already has three of a kind on the table and Draws the fourth from the wall, he may place it with the three on the table, and the combination scores as "four of a kind on the table." In this case also the first loose tile must be drawn before discarding. But a player may not Pung a fourth discarded by another player to add to his three already exposed on the table.

Should a player draw from the wall to make four of a kind in the concealed portion of his hand he may declare this four of a kind by placing the four tiles on the table and drawing the first loose tile to make up the correct number of tiles in his hand, then discarding. In this case one of the four tiles placed on the table is turned face down to indicate that this combination of four of a kind was not Punged, but is to be scored as a "concealed combination of four of a kind." (See Fig. 19.)

Sometimes a player holds four of a kind concealed in his hand for a time, instead of declaring it at once, either hoping to use the tiles or a part of them to complete one or more Runs or for some other reason. This is allowable and sometimes useful. Such a four of a kind may be declared later at any time the player has a turn, but only after he draws from the wall. But if another player completes his hand and wins before the four of a kind has been declared, the four of a kind left in the hand counts only as a concealed combination of three of a kind, or one-fourth what it would count if it had been declared and properly placed on the table.

Similarly, a player with three of a kind in his hand, if the fourth one is discarded by another player, may Pung for three of a kind only and declare the fourth one on a later turn, or not at all, if he so desires. Or, a player with three of a kind already Punged and on the table may draw the fourth one and not declare same until a later turn, or not at all, just as he wishes. Where a four of a kind is not declared promptly but on a later turn the order of play is: first, draw from the wall; then, declare the combination of four; then, draw a loose tile; then, discard.

Each four of a kind must be declared and exposed on the table and one loose tile drawn for each, before the combination may be scored as such, and such declaration must be made only in a player's proper turn and prior to the time that any player completes his hand for game (MAH-JONGG). A player may declare more than one combination of four of a kind on one turn.

No player may declare a set of fours that he has been holding after Chowing or Punging, but only after drawing from the wall. If a tile is Chowed or Punged the player must wait until his next turn before declaring a four of a kind.

No loose tile may be drawn without declaring and exposing four of a kind. The player who declares the first set of fours draws the first loose tile, that is, the one which is farther from the end of the wall; on the second set of fours, the one loose tile remaining is drawn (e. g., one set of fours has been declared in Fig. 15). When two sets of fours have been declared and the two loose tiles have been taken, then the two last tiles in the wall are placed on top of the end of the wall and used as new loose tiles. Should there be still

Fig. 15. The Wall During Play

further sets of fours and these two new ones also be used, the next two end tiles in the wall in turn become loose tiles.

For example, in Fig. 15, if two sets of fours have been declared and Tiles A and B have both been drawn as loose tiles, Tiles C and D then become loose tiles and are drawn in the order named if further sets of fours are declared.


MAH-JONGG: When a player succeeds in completing his hand either by Drawing the final necessary tile from the wall or by Punging or Chowing a discard from the table, he declares MAH-JONGG and lays down his entire hand face up on the table. This is called Drawing or Punging for MAH-JONGG. (See definition of complete hand, Page 12, and also illustrations under Examples for Scoring, Pages 41–52.)

When a player needs only one more tile to complete his hand for MAH-JONGG, his hand is said to be "ready to go out" or "Waiting" or "Set." This need not be announced. At this stage of the game, if any one of his opponents discards the tile for which he is. "Waiting," the player may at once declare MAH-JONGG and take the tile to complete his hand. This winning tile may be taken for MAH-JONGG in this way, even though out of the player's regular turn, to complete a combination of three of a kind, to complete a Run (sequence) or to complete the final pair.

MAH-JONGG takes precedence over any other Pung or Chow, even though the latter may be first in order of play.

In case the same discarded tile is required to complete the hands of two or three players, the player first in turn has the right to take it for MAH-JONGG, i. e., that player who sits nearest the player who discarded the tile, counting in order of play, counter-clockwise.

A high score or large doubling honor combinations give a player no preference in taking the discarded tile. East takes no precedence in this regard unless he is first in turn as explained above.

A player never discards after securing the final tile which completes his hand for MAH-JONGG.

In no case should the winning tile be concealed in the hand when a player declares MAH-JONGG. When the winning tile is Punged the winning combination formed should be immediately placed face up on the table with the exposed portion of the hand and it scores as an exposed combination. When the winning tile is Drawn, that tile should be immediately laid face up on the table exposed to view and the rest of the hand laid face up. In this case the combination formed by drawing the winning tile is scored as a concealed combination. (For penalties for the violation of this rule see Laws Covering Irregularities, Page 31.)


MAH-JONGG on Special Draw of Loose Tile: It should be noted that a player may never MAH-JONGG by completing and declaring a set of fours of a kind, as it is then necessary for him to draw a loose tile to make up the correct number of tiles in his hand.

Occasionally, a player completes his hand for MAH-JONGG on the draw of the loose tile after having declared a set of fours. The player receives a special bonus score of ten points for winning in this way. (See Score Sheet, Page 35.)


Stealing the Fourth to Win: Where a player who, having three of a kind Punged on the Table, declares the fourth one and exposes it on the table with the other three and this fourth one completes the hand of another player, the other player may Pung this tile for MAH-JONGG. This is called Stealing the Fourth to Win and entitles the winning player to a special bonus score of ten points. (See Score Sheet, Page 35.)

For example, West has three two's of characters, already Punged and exposed on the table, and later draws the fourth two of characters which he exposes and declares for four of a kind. This two of characters will complete South's hand for MAH-JONGG, so South may claim the tile and declare MAH-JONGG, scoring the special bonus for Stealing the Fourth to Win. West can score his exposed combination of three two's of characters as three of a kind, only.

A player may not, however, steal the fourth from a concealed combination of four of a kind.

Where a player fails to declare the fourth for a set of fours, either overlooking it or deliberately refusing to declare the fourth, a player winning on the discarded tile may not claim the bonus for Stealing the Fourth to Win.

Where a discarded tile is Punged by a player for four of a kind, and this discarded tile completes another player's hand for MAH-JONGG, the latter player is entitled to take the tile, as MAH-JONGG takes precedence over any other Pung. In this instance, however, the winning player would not be entitled to the special bonus, as this is not a case of Stealing the Fourth to Win.


Scoring: After one player declares for MAH-JONGG and lays down his hand complete, all hands are laid down and each player scores his own hand, beginning with the winner. Each score includes exposed combinations already on the table, as well as all concealed combinations now disclosed in the hand.

It should be noted, in the case of the winning hand, which has been completed into four combinations of three (or four) and a pair, that each and every tile has a definite place as a part of one of these combinations and no tile which is a part of one combination can be grouped with tiles in another combination to form a score.

For example, with three fours of dots in a hand, if one of these fours has been used to form a Run and the other two fours form the pair, if the hand is completed the three fours cannot be scored as such as they are not grouped as one combination (this point is illustrated in Fig. 20).

But if the hand is not the winning hand and has not been completed for MAH-JONGG, any tiles in the concealed part of the hand may be re-grouped to form the best scoring combinations possible.

But in no case may a tile which has already been used to form a part of an exposed combination be re-grouped with other exposed tiles or with concealed tiles to form new scoring combinations.

For example, after another player completes his hand for MAH-JONGG, if one of the losing players has the concealed part of his hand grouped into three Runs, the 3, 4, 5 of characters, the 5, 6, 7 of characters and the 4, 5, 6 of characters, he may re-group the tiles and score the three fives of characters as a concealed combination of three of a kind. But if these three Runs have been completed by Chowing and are in the exposed part of the hand, the three fives are then permanently a part of these Runs and cannot be re-grouped and scored. (This point is illustrated in Figs. 20 and 24.)

Combinations in the concealed portion of the hand are never exposed until one of the players has completed his hand for MAH-JONGG (with the exception of four of a kind noted specially on Page 18). When the four hands are laid down, concealed combinations of three of a kind are usually indicated by placing one of the three tiles in the combination face up on top of the other two, so that these may be more readily distinguished from combinations of three of a kind on the table, as the two combinations score differently. (See Score Sheet, Page 34.)

Each player must expose his entire hand face up showing the correct number of tiles before he can collect from his opponents, and each player is himself responsible for his own account. A count can only be changed while the entire hand is face up in front of the players and no score can be altered after the hand has been thrown in for the next shuffle.


Settling of Scores: The players settle with each other at the end of each hand with the counters, each counter representing a certain number of points, as explained under "Counters." (See Page 5.)

When a player wins by completing his hand for MAHJONGG each of the other three players pays the winner the winner's entire score without regard to the score of his own hand. Each of the three losers then settles with the other two, each one of the three losing players paying each one that has a larger score the difference between their scores. In every case the winner should be paid first.

When East Wins: If East wins a hand, each of the others pays East in points twice the amount of East's score. If East does not win, he pays the winner double his (the winner's) score. East then pays each other loser, who has a larger score than he, double the difference between their scores. From each other loser, who has a less score than he, East collects double the difference between their scores.

It should be noted carefully that the score in a player's hand is not doubled because he is East. East merely pays out and receives double stakes, the score in his hand remaining the same as if he were at any other position at the table.


Resuming Play: As long as East wins the hand he continues as East. When another player wins the hand the East then passes to the right, counter-clockwise, to the player who was South, who thereupon becomes East, the tiles are shuffled again, the wall rebuilt, and another hand is begun. The East of the previous hand now becomes North, the player formerly in the position of West becomes South, and the player formerly in the position of North now becomes West. East passes in this way, always to the right (counter-clockwise) until the agreed number of hands or rounds has been completed.

Examples of the Settling of Scores:

I. Suppose

East wins with a score of 48 points
South has a score of 16 points
West has a score of 4 points
North has No score
Then

South, West, and North must pay East twice his score, or 96 points each.

West must pay South the difference between 16 points and four points, or 12 points.

North must pay South the difference between their scores, or 16 points, and must also pay West the difference between their two scores, or 4 points.

Won Lost
East wins 96+96+96= 288 points
South loses 96−16−12= 68 points
West loses 96+12−04= 104 points
North loses 96+16+04= 116 points
288 points 288 points

II. Suppose

North wins with a score of 28 points
West has a score of 112 points
East has a score of 44 points
South has a score of 12 points

Then

South and West must each pay North 28 points, while East must pay North twice 28 points, or 56 points.

East must pay West twice the difference between their scores, or 2 (112 − 44) = 136 points.

South must pay West the difference between their scores, or 112 − 12 = 100 points. South must also pay East twice the difference between their scores, or 2 (44 − 12) = 64 points.

Won Lost
North wins 028+028+56= 112 points
West wins 136+100−28= 208 points
East loses 056+136−64= 128 points
South loses 028+100+64= 192 points
320 points 320 points


The Limit: There are great possibilities in the score, as it is possible to score 63,488 points in one hand (See Fig. 26). Unless otherwise arranged at the start of the game, the scoring limit is 300 points on one hand, i. e., any hand with combinations totaling more than 300 points scores only 300 points. Each losing player then pays in counters only 300 points when the winner's score is 300 or more; except in the case of East, who, when a loser, pays double (or 600 points), and when a winner, collects double (600 points from each player) when his winning score is 300 or more.

On the rare occasions when a hand which, although it was not completed for MAH-JONGG, contains combinations totaling more than 300 points (the Limit), the score of the hand is limited to 300 points. The player must pay the winner the full amount of his (the winner's) score, and the other two players, in settling with the Limit Hand, deduct their own scores from 300 points (and not from the total score in the Limit Hand). East pays or receives double as usual.

In the Standard Score Sheet (and under Optional Scores) will be found certain special hands which entitle the player to score the Limit (or a fraction thereof), even though the actual scoring combinations in the player's hand may total less than that amount. In these cases the actual score in the hand is not regarded but the player may score his hand as the Limit (or fraction thereof) according to the Score Sheet.


Draw Game: Should the game proceed with no hand completed for MAH-JONGG until there are only fourteen tiles (seven pairs) left at the end of the wall, none of these last fourteen tiles can be drawn, but the game is declared a Draw and no scores count. In counting these fourteen tiles, the one or two loose tiles at the end of the wall are included in the fourteen.

These last fourteen tiles make up what is known as the Dead Portion of the wall as distinct from the rest of the wall which is in play and which is known as the Live Portion. (See Fig. 12.)

In the case of a Draw Game, East does not pass, but the same player continues as East.


Hand in Plain Sight: Each player must at all times have all tiles of both the "concealed" part and the "exposed" part of his hand in full view, so that any player may see whether his number of tiles is correct and so be able to detect a Dead Hand. (See Dead Hand, Page 31.)


MAH-JONGG on the Last Tile Drawn:[3] If a player wins by drawing the last tile in the live portion of the wall which is the last tile that may be drawn, thus preventing a Draw Game, winning the game on this play is known as MAH-JONGG on the Last Tile Drawn, and entitles the player to a special bonus of 10 points. (See Score Sheet, Page 35.)

A player may not declare a set of fours after the last tile from the live portion of the wall has been drawn, for if the loose tile were taken there would be less than fourteen, the proper number of tiles for the dead portion of the wall. He may, however, declare a set of fours after the next to the last tile from the live portion of the wall has been drawn, in which case the next tile becomes a part of the dead portion of the wall and cannot be drawn, and the loose tile which is drawn after the set of fours becomes the player's last chance to win. If the player wins on this loose tile, which is, of course, extremely unlikely, he is entitled to both the special bonus of 10 points for MAH-JONGG on Special Draw of Loose Tile after Four of a Kind and the special bonus of 10 points for MAH-JONGG on the Last Tile Drawn.

When a player draws the last tile from the Live Portion of the wall and finds it does not complete his hand for MAH-JONGG, he must still discard before the game can be declared a Draw. If this last discard completes another player's hand, he may declare for MAH-JONGG, but no special bonus would be given for winning in this way.

III
Laws Covering Irregularities

Irregularities in Original Draw: If a player on the Original Draw draws one or more tiles belonging to another player, by drawing out of turn or otherwise, any player has a right to demand another shuffle and a new Draw for that hand.

At the beginning of play any player may ask for sufficient time to properly arrange and count his tiles before allowing East to make his first discard or the following player to play.

Irregularities in the Draw may be corrected prior to the time that the first draw has been made from the wall after East's first discard. After this at any time during the play a hand containing more or less than the correct number of tiles is a Dead Hand.


Dead Hand: A Dead Hand is one which is discovered and declared by an opponent to contain more or less than the correct number of tiles or to have certain irregularities in the combinations in that part of the hand exposed on the table, which were discovered too late for correction. A player holding a Dead Hand must continue to draw and discard and may Chow and Pung but cannot, of course, complete his hand for MAH-JONGG. The penalty is that a player holding a Dead Hand must pay the winner and pay each other player his total score, the Dead Hand scoring as nothing, regardless of combinations contained therein. No player pays the Dead Hand.


Discarding: A discard once quitted cannot be reclaimed.

There is no penalty for miscalling a discard, but as a matter of courtesy this should not be done intentionally. In order to protect himself against a possible disclosure of what he may have concealed in his hand, each player should wait until the discarder has placed his discard on the table face up and quitted it, before he Pungs or Chows, as there is no recourse should the player be misled by the miscalling of a discard.


Exposed Tile: A tile from wall or hand which is exposed is replaced without penalty. If, in discarding, a player accidentally discards two tiles, he is allowed time to declare which is his proper discard, and the other exposed tile may be taken back into his hand.


Drawing: The tiles must be drawn from the wall in their proper sequence. If any player draws the wrong tile from the wall, he must put it back into the wall in its proper place.


Punging and Chowing: See paragraphs under the headings "To Pung" and "To Chow."

If a player lays down an incorrect combination after Punging or Chowing (as, for example, the four, five, nine of bamboo instead of the four, five, six; or two threes of characters and a two of characters instead of three threes), if the error can be corrected from within the player's own hand, such correction may be made prior to his own next draw. Any correction that cannot be made within his own hand must be made prior to the next player's discard. Unless so corrected, the hand containing the irregular combination is Dead.

A player may declare to Pung or Chow and then alter his declaration and draw from the wall, provided he has not discarded. There is no penalty for this.

Should a player draw from the wall before or after the preceding player has quitted his discard, he must abide by his draw and may not Pung or Chow the discarded tile.


MAH-JONGG: A player who-has drawn for MAH-JONGG must place the tile drawn face up on the table and not include same in the concealed portion of his hand; otherwise, he can produce no proof as to the identity of the tile drawn. As a penalty for failing to observe this rule the player may not count those scores which are dependent for proof upon the identity of the drawn tile. These scores are the following Special Bonus Scores:

  • To complete the hand by filling in the only possible place to win.
  • No score other than Game, MAH-JONGG.

A tile drawn for MAH-JONGG in this way still counts as a part of a concealed combination for scoring purposes. (See first paragraph under "MAH-JONGG" on Page 22.)

There is no penalty for incorrectly calling MAH-JONGG with a hand which is incomplete, even though all of the other players expose their entire hands. Each player must protect his own hand, and no hand should be disclosed until the player who has declared MAH-JONGG has exposed a complete hand face up on the table.

IV
Standard Score Sheet for MAH-JONGG

Exposed Combinations (on the Table). (Completed from discards that have been Punged or Chowed.) These apply to all hands. A Run has no value except to complete a hand.

Three of a kind (of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8) of the same suit 2 points
Three ones or three nines of the same suit 4 points
Three of a kind of any Wind 4 points
Three of a kind of Red, Green, or White Dragons 4 points
Four of a kind (of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8) of the same suit 8 points
Four ones or four nines of the same suit 16 points
Four of a kind of any Wind 16 points
Four of a kind of Red, Green, or White Dragons 16 points
A pair of any Dragon or of a player's own Wind 2 points


Concealed Combinations. (Completed by drawing from the wall.) These apply to all hands. A Run has no value except to complete the hand.

Three of a kind (of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8) of the same suit 4 points
Three ones or three nines of the same suit 8 points
Three of a kind of any Wind 8 points
Three of a kind of Red, Green, or White Dragons 8 points
Four of a kind (of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8) of the same suit 16 points
Four ones or four nines of the same suit 32 points
Four of a kind of any Wind 32 points
Four of a kind of Red, Green, or White Dragons 32 points
A pair of any Dragon or of a player's own Wind 2 points

Special Bonus Scores: These apply to winning hand only.

Game or MAH-JONGG (for winning the hand) 20 points
Winning tile drawn (not Punged or Chowed) 2 points
MAH-JONGG on special draw of a loose tile after four of a kind, scores an additional 8 points, or in all 10 points
To complete the hand by filling in the only possible place to win 2 points
No score other than Game, MAH-JONGG 10 points
No Runs, concealed or exposed 10 points
Stealing the Fourth to Win 10 Points
MAH-JONGG on the Last Tile Drawn 10 Points

N. B.—The above Special Bonus Scores are always added before the score is doubled for any honor combinations the hand may contain. (See below.)

Double Honor Scores: These apply to all hands.

Three or four of a player's own Wind, concealed Double total score
Three or four of Red, Green, or White Dragons, concealed or exposed Double total score
Hand all of one suit, except for any number of Winds, or Red, Green, or White Dragons Double total score
Hand entirely of one suit Double total score three times
(i. e., if score is 32, doubling three times makes it 256)
Hand entirely of Honor Tiles (all Winds and Dragons, no suits) Double total score three times

N. B.—Should one hand contain more than one doubling honor combination, the score is doubled for each combination according to the above table. Thus, if a hand has, for example, 3 Red Dragons, 3 of the player's own Wind, and all other tiles of the same suit, the score is doubled three times.

Special Scores: These apply to winning hands only and are very unusual.

The Hand From Heaven Scores the Limit, usually 300 points

When East picks up his first fourteen tiles prior to the beginning of play, if he finds his hand is already complete, he should declare at once MAH-JONGG. This is called by the Chinese The Hand From Heaven. Only East may win in this way, since the other three players have only thirteen tiles at the beginning of play.

The Hand From Earth Scores half the Limit, usually 150 points

If a player other than East, on picking up his hand at the beginning of play has thirteen tiles ready to go out (i. e., ready for the fourteenth tile to complete the hand), and can Pung East's first discard for MAH-JONGG, he may score one-half the Limit. Obviously, East himself can never obtain this score.

The Lucky Thirteen Scores one-third the Limit, usually 100 points

After East has made his first discard, any player whose thirteen original tiles make him ready to go out (i e., ready for the fourteenth tile to complete the hand for MAH-JONGG) may declare his intention to win on his original thirteen tiles and if at any time later he is successful in completing his hand for MAH-JONGG, he is entitled to score one-third the Limit. The player must declare his intention to win in this way before he takes his first draw, and after such declaration is made, he cannot change his original thirteen tiles if he wishes to score one-third the Limit. He may, however, deem it advisable to change one or more of the original thirteen titles in order to win, in which case he may go MAH-JONGG in the ordinary way, but in this event he cannot score for The Lucky Thirteen.

This hand may be held by East himself, but East must declare his intention to win in this way when he makes his first discard.

V
Aids in Scoring for MAH-JONGG

A thorough knowledge of the scoring and the value of all combinations is essential to intelligent play. Every player should be able to score his own and his opponent's hands without reference to the score sheet.

It is recommended that the illustrative hands and examples of scoring given in Chapter VI be studied carefully.

The scoring in MAH-JONGG is not as complicated as it might at first appear. In order to score readily without reference to the Score Sheet it is useful to remember that

Runs are not scored.

The smallest score is for an ordinary three of a kind (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8) Punged on the table. This combination counts 2 points.

Ones, Nines, Winds, and Dragons score twice as much as the ordinary tiles.

All combinations of four of a kind score four times as much as similar combinations of three of a kind of the same tile.

All concealed combinations count twice as much as corresponding exposed combinations; with the exception of a pair of Dragons or a pair of a player's own Wind, which score two points whether concealed or exposed.

Dragons and a player's own Wind count alike in all respects.

Winds other than a player's own and Ones and Nines count alike in all respects.


MAH-JONGG on Special Draw of a Loose Tile After Four of a Kind.

This is fully explained on Page 22. See explanation in connection with Fig. 19.


To complete the hand by filling in the only possible place to win. There are three situations in which a player may complete his hand in this way.

1. By filling a Run open at one end, as by obtaining the 7 to an uncompleted combination of 8, 9, or the 3 to an uncompleted combination of 1, 2.

2. By filling a Run open in the middle, as by obtaining the 6 to an uncompleted combination of 5 and 7.

3. By obtaining the second to a pair, as when the player has only one tile which he must match in order to obtain the final pair for MAH-JONGG.

For the above, the winner is entitled to two points, but only provided that the winning tile is the only tile which would complete the hand, i. e., no other tile could be used in any combination to complete the hand.

This is illustrated and explained more fully under Fig. 21 on Page 46.


No Score, other than Game (MAH-JONGG).

This special bonus score of 10 points can only be claimed when the hand contains no score whatever other than for winning the Game (MAH-JONGG). It is in the nature of a consolation to the winning player who holds a hand which would otherwise score only 20. This bonus is not given if the winning tile was drawn or if the hand was completed by filling in the only place to win—such hands score 22 and not 30.

See example and explanation given under Fig. 21 on Page 46.


No Runs. Concealed or Exposed: This hand is made up entirely of sets of threes (or fours) and a pair. It is not an easy hand to obtain and entitles the holder to a bonus of 10 points. See example given in Fig. 19.


Stealing the Fourth to Win: This is fully explained on Page 22. It is an important play and should be thoroughly understood, as it occurs not infrequently and is sometimes overlooked.


MAH-JONGG on the Last Tile Drawn: This is explained on Page 29. The play is of rare occurrence.

VI
Examples for Scoring in MAH-JONGG

The exposed part of each hand is shown at the left and the concealed part at the right.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 16

Fig. 16. The above is a complete hand and scores:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three fours of dots, exposed 2 points
For three nines of bamboo, concealed 8 points
[4]For filling in only possible place to win 2 points
32 points
Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 17

Fig. 17. The above is a complete hand and scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three ones of dots, exposed 4 points
For three West Winds, exposed 4 points
For three sevens of characters, concealed 4 points
32 points

If the last tile obtained to complete the hand was drawn and was the two of characters, add two to the score for drawing the winning title and another two for winning by filling in the only possible place to win. This would make the total score 36 points.

If the player holding this hand is West, the total score is doubled for three of the player’s own Wind. The total score of the hand is then 64 points, or 72 points if the last tile obtained was drawn and was the two of characters.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 18

Fig. 18. The above is a complete hand which was completed by Punging the third Green Dragon, and it scores as below. (Note that there are fifteen tiles in the hand, the player having drawn a loose tile, making one extra tile for his set of fours of a kind.)

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For four eights of dots, exposed 8 points
For three Green Dragons, exposed 4 points
For three East Winds, concealed 8 points
For two White Dragons, concealed 2 points
42 points
This total score is doubled for the three Green Dragons = 84 points

If this hand is held by East, the score is doubled again for three of the player's own Wind, making a total score of 168 points. In this case, as East always plays for double stakes, he would receive counters to the value of 336 points from each of the other players.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 19

Fig. 19. The above is a complete hand and scores as below: (Note that the four Red Dragons have been placed on the table with one of them face down, which indicates that they have been Drawn and not Punged. They therefore score as a concealed combination of four of a kind. See Page 18. There are sixteen tiles in all, one extra tile for each set of fours.)

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three sixes of characters, exposed 2 points
For four South Winds, exposed 16 points
For four Red Dragons, concealed 32 points
For three twos of characters, concealed 4 points
Assuming the hand was completed by drawing the two of characters as a loose tile after declaring a set of fours 10 points
No Runs, concealed or exposed 10 points
94 points
This total score is doubled for 3 (or 4) Red Dragons = 188 points
This score is doubled again because the hand is all one suit (characters), except for the Honor Tiles = 376 points

If this hand (Fig. 19) is held by South, the score is doubled again for 3 (or 4) of the player's own Wind, making a total score of 752 points. As the game is usually played with a limit of 300 points, South would be paid for a score of 300 only, and would receive counters to the value of 300 points from North and West and 600 points from East.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 20

Fig. 20. The above is a complete hand and scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three sixes of dots, concealed 4 points
24 points
This score is doubled three times because the hand is all of one suit (dots) = 24×2×2×2 = 192 points

N. B.—There are four sixes of dots and four fours of dots in this hand, but they have not been declared and do not score as fours, as they have been used to form other combinations in the hand. Nor can the three fours of dots in the concealed portion of the hand be scored as "three of a kind," as they have been used in separate combinations to form the complete hand.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 21

Fig. 21. The above is a complete hand.

If we assume that the winning tile which completed the hand was the five of characters, this was evidently Chowed or Punged for MAH-JONGG, and the hand scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For No Score other than Game 10 points
30 points

The same score holds even if four eights of characters are in sight on the table (either among the discards or in other players' hands) and the five of characters is the only available tile to win on, as in any case the sequence of the six and seven of characters is considered as open at both ends, and cannot be scored as open on only one end. This is not considered as filling in the only possible place to win.

If, however, the winning tile was the seven of bamboo, the player has a score of 2 for filling in the only possible place to win (a Run open at only one end). His total score is then only 22 instead of 30 points. 22 is the minimum score.

If the winning tile was the six of characters, the player scores 2 for filling in the only possible place to win (a Run in the middle), and his total score is 22.

If the winning tile was the two of dots (which must have been Drawn as it is part of a concealed combination and not exposed), the player scores 2 for drawing the winning tile and his total score is 22.

If the winning tile was the three of dots, the player scores 2 for drawing the winning tile and 2 for winning by filling in the only possible way to win (a Run in the middle). The total score is then 24.

If the winning tile was the two of bamboo, the player scores 2 for drawing the winning tile. The total score is then 22. This is not filling in the only place, as the 5 of bamboo would also complete the hand.

Only when there is no score at all other than that for going Game (MAH-JONGG) can the winning player secure this bonus of 10 points and count a total score of 30.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 22

Fig. 22. The above is an incomplete hand (13 tiles plus two extra for two sets of fours). This hand is ready to go out and may be completed for MAH-JONGG by Punging or Drawing one of three tiles, the two, five, or eight of characters. If the player completes the hand by Punging or Chowing one of these tiles, the hand scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For four nines of dots, exposed 16 points
For four ones of characters, concealed 32 points
68 points

If the winning tile was Drawn instead of Punged, or Chowed, add 2, making the score 70 points.

If, however, the player was unable to complete the hand before another player declared MAH-JONGG, the hand scores as follows:

For four nines of dots, exposed 16 points
For four ones of characters, concealed 32 points
48 points
Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 23

Fig. 23. The above is an incomplete hand (13 tiles), which as yet is not ready to go out. When another player declares for MAH-JONGG this hand scores as follows:

For three nines of bamboo, exposed 4 points
For three White Dragons, concealed 8 points
For three South Winds, concealed 8 points
20 points
This score is doubled for three White Dragons = 40 points
This score is doubled again because the hand is all one suit (bamboo) except for the Honor Tiles = 80 points
If the player who holds this hand is South, this total score is doubled again for three of the player's own Wind = 160 points
Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 24

Fig. 24. The above is an incomplete hand (13 tiles), which is ready to go out, lacking only the five or eight of dots to complete the hand for MAH-JONGG. When another player declares for MAH-JONGG this hand scores as follows:

For three sixes of dots, concealed 4 points
For three fours of dots, concealed 4 points
8 points
This score is doubled three times because the hand is entirely of one suit (dots) =8×2×2×2 = 64 points

N. B.—This hand is similar to the one in Fig. 20, but in the hand shown in Fig. 20 the three fours of dots in the concealed portion of the hand could not be scored, as they were grouped in separate combinations to form the complete hand. In Fig. 24, however, as the hand is incomplete, the tiles not already exposed may be re-grouped and the three fours counted as a scoring combination.

Also note that there are four sixes of dots in the concealed portion of the hand, but that they may be scored only as a concealed combination of three of a kind, counting four points. If prior to one of the opponents having declared for MAH-JONGG, these had been declared as a set of fours, laid on the table and a loose tile drawn, they could have been scored as a concealed combination of four of a kind, counting sixteen points. In this case it was good play to sacrifice the 12 points, for by not declaring them as a set of fours the sixes could be grouped in other combinations and the hand had a better chance of being completed for MAH-JONGG.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 25

Fig. 25. The above is an incomplete hand (13 tiles), which is ready to go out. This hand may be completed by obtaining one of five tiles, the three, five, six, eight, or nine of bamboo.

If the player completes the hand by Punging (or Chowing) the 3, 6, or 9, the hand scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three fives of dots, exposed 2 points
22 points

If the player completes the hand by Punging the 5 or 8, the hand scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three fives of dots, exposed 2 points
For three fours of bamboo, concealed 4 points
26 points

If the winning tile was Drawn instead of Punged or Chowed, add 2 to the above scores.

If, however, the player was unable to complete the hand before another player declared MAH-JONGG the hand scores as follows:

For three fives of dots, exposed 2 points
For three fours of bamboo, concealed 4 points
6 points

In hands like this it is often difficult for the beginner to see all the ways possible to complete the hand and opportunities for MAH-JONGG are missed. It is particularly important that such hands be studied carefully so that the player knows just what tiles are required to complete his hand. This hand illustrates the advantage of a long sequence of the same suit in the concealed portion of the hand prior to MAH-JONGG.

The possibilities of MAH-JONGG will be realized to some extent from the score on the following page (Page 52). This is the maximum hand obtainable according to the Standard Score Sheet. In practice there is always a limit, which, while regularly understood to be 300 points, may be changed before beginning play by agreement.

Fig. 26

Fig. 26. This figure shows the maximum hand possible, scoring by the Standard Score Sheet. It is a complete hand of fourteen tiles, and is held by East, being the original fourteen tiles drawn by him at beginning of game ("The Hand from Heaven").

If there were no limit, this hand would score as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
Three Green Dragons, concealed 8
Three Red Dragons, concealed 8
Three White Dragons, concealed 8
Three East Winds, concealed 8
No Runs 10
Total score before doubling 62
Doubling once for three Green Dragons 124
Doubling once for three Red Dragons 248
Doubling once for three White Dragons 496
Doubling once for three East Winds 992
Doubling three times for all Winds and Dragons
1,984
3,968
7,936
Doubling three times for "Hand from Heaven"
15,872
31,744
63,488
Each other player plays East double, or 126,976
East receives a total from S, W, and N of 380,928
VII
Optional Scores

These Optional Scores apply to winning hands only and are not played unless specially agreed upon prior to the beginning of play. It is not advisable to use these optional scores when first learning the game. These optional scores do not count unless the hands have been completed for MAHJONGG.

The Four Wind Hand Scores the Limit

Where the winning hand contains three combinations of Winds in sets of 3 (or four) of a kind, including the player's

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 27

own Wind, and in addition at least a pair of the fourth Wind, the hand is known as a Four Wind Hand.

Fig. 27. This figure shows a complete hand and if held by East, South, or North it is an example of a Four Wind Hand, but if held by West it cannot be scored as such, as it does not contain three of the player's own Wind. Assuming that this hand was held by East, South, or North, and that it was completed by Punging the East Wind, according to the Standard Score Sheet, it scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three East Winds, exposed 4 points
For three South Winds, exposed 4 points
For three North Winds, exposed 4 points
32 points
This score is doubled for three of player's own Wind = 64 points
This score is doubled again because the hand is all one suit (dots) except for the Honor Tiles = 128 points

But if the Four Wind Hand has previously been agreed upon as an Optional Score, this hand scores the limit, 300 points.

If the completed hand held 4 sets of three (or 4) Winds it would, of course, still count as a Four Wind Hand.


The Reader Should Practice counting these optional scores by actually setting up the tiles and checking his score from the examples shown in this chapter. Fig. 29 will give particularly good practice.

Winning Hand containing No Tiles other than Ones, Nines, and Honor Tiles Scores the Limit
Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 28

Fig. 28. The above is an example of a complete hand containing no tiles other than ones, nines, and Honor Tiles. Assuming that this hand was completed by Punging the one of characters, and was held by a player other than East, according to the Standard Score Sheet, it would score as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three ones of characters, exposed 4 points
For three East Winds, exposed 4 points
For four nines of bamboo, exposed 16 points
For three nines of dots, concealed 8 points
For two White Dragons, concealed 2 points
For No Runs, concealed or exposed 10 points
64 points

But if this Optional Score has previously been agreed upon, the hand scores the limit—300 points.

The Nine Gates Scores the Limit
Hand entirely concealed
Fig. 29

Fig. 29. The above hand contains 13 tiles and is an example of The Nine Gates Hand when it is Waiting or Set. Any one of the nine tiles in the character suit will complete this hand for MAH-JONGG.

If this hand were completed by Punging the three of characters, according to the Standard Score Sheet, it would score as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three nines of characters, concealed 8 points
28 points
Doubling three times for a hand entirely of one suit (characters), 28×2×2×2 = 224 points
But if the Nine Gates has previously been agreed upon as an Optional Score, when completed, this hand scores the Limit = 300 points

This hand is of rare occurrence, as it is necessary in order to have nine ways out that the hand be all of one suit and all concealed prior to MAH-JONGG. It must contain one of every tile in the suit and three ones and three nines of the suit. This is an extreme example of a hand which has many possibilities for completion and shows clearly the advantage of having a long sequence of the same suit in the concealed portion of the hand prior to MAH-JONGG.

Winning Hand Containing Four Sets of Fours Scores the Limit
Hand entirely exposed
Fig. 30

Fig. 30. This hand was completed by Punging the nine of dots for MAH-JONGG. According to the Standard Score Sheet, it scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONG) 20 points
For four twos of bamboo, exposed 8 points
For four threes of dots, exposed 8 points
For four ones of characters, exposed 16 points
For four eights of characters, exposed 8 points
For filling in the only possible place to win 2 points
No Runs, concealed or exposed 10 points
72 points

(If previously agreed this hand when completed scores the limit.)

Three Combinations of three (or four) of a kind concealed in the winning hand Double Total Score Once
Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 31

Fig. 31. The above is an example of a complete hand containing three concealed combinations of 3 of a kind. Assuming that the hand was completed by Punging the 4 of characters for MAH-JONGG, according to the Standard Score Sheet it scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONG) 20 points
For three fives of bamboo, concealed 4 points
For three ones of dots, concealed 8 points
For three eights of characters, concealed 4 points
For filling in only possible place to win (Run in the middle) 2 points
38 points

But if this Optional Score has previously been agreed upon, the player is entitled to double his score once for three concealed sets of three of a kind, and this hand would score 76 points.

The winning tile may be either Drawn or Punged. Note that a player may Draw or Pung the fourth to any of his concealed sets of three and still be entitled to the double, provided the set of three which makes up the four was originally in the concealed portion of his hand and was not Punged from the board.

Winning Hand containing Four concealed combinations of Three (or Four) of a kind Scores the Limit
Hand entirely concealed
Fig. 32

Fig. 32. The above is an example of a complete hand containing four concealed combinations of 3 of a kind. Assuming that the hand was completed by drawing the third nine of characters, according to the Standard Score Sheet it scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONG) 20 points
For three sixes of characters, concealed 4 points
For three fours of dots, concealed 4 points
For three twos of bamboo, concealed 4 points
For three nines of characters, concealed 8 points
For Winning Tile Drawn (not Punged or Chowed) 2 points
No Runs, concealed or exposed 10 points
52 points
But if this optional score has previously been agreed upon, this hand scores the Limit 300 points

If the player already has four concealed sets of three (or four) and is waiting to complete a pair for MAH-JONGG, this last tile may be either Drawn or Punged, to obtain the Limit hand. Sometimes it is agreed that winning tile must be Drawn, not Punged, to score the Limit.

"The Thirteen Orphans" Scores the Limit
Hand entirely concealed
Fig. 33

Fig. 33. The above is an example of a Thirteen Orphan hand which is ready to go out. If the player obtains a fourteenth tile to pair with any one of the above thirteen tiles, he may declare for MAH-JONGG. A Thirteen Orphan Hand must contain thirteen single tiles which include one of each of the four Winds, one of each of the three Dragons, one each of the ones and nines of Dots, ones and nines of Bamboo, and ones and nines of Characters, and a fourteenth tile making a pair to any one of these thirteen single tiles.

It is obvious that the first thirteen single tiles can be neither Punged nor Chowed, but must all be Drawn from the Wall. However, when thirteen tiles of the fourteen have been obtained, the fourteenth tile needed to complete the hand may be either Drawn or Punged for MAH-JONGG. This holds true whether the fourteenth tile makes the pair or whether the pair has previously been obtained and the fourteenth tile is the only single tile which is missing from the hand.

A Thirteen Orphan Hand is one of the most difficult hands to obtain, and when completed scores the Limit. If not completed, it scores nothing. It is usually unwise to try for this hand unless a player has ten or eleven of these single tiles on his original draw.

The Seven Twins Scores Half the Limit, usually 150 points
Hand entirely concealed
Fig. 34

Fig. 34. The above is an example of the Seven Twins Hand, which consists of any seven pairs, fourteen tiles in all. When the player obtains six pairs with an odd thirteenth tile his hand is then ready to go out and he may either Draw or Pung a tile to match his odd thirteenth tile, making his seventh pair for MAH-JONGG.

This hand is not often played by the Chinese, but as a matter of interest has been included among the Optional Scores. It is relatively easier to obtain the Seven Twins Hand than it is the other optional hands shown in this chapter, and it is not recommended that this hand be played.


Optional Doubling Scores: Players who prefer a game of larger scores, at their option, may agree before the beginning of play to double the total score once instead of adding ten points for the following winning hands:

No score other than Game (MAH-JONGG).

MAH-JONGG on special draw of a loose tile after four of a kind.

No Runs, concealed or exposed.

Stealing the Fourth to Win.

MAH-JONGG on Last Tile Drawn.

(In the Standard Score Sheet under Special Bonus Scores these are given a value of 10 points each.)

No Score other than that for Drawing the Winning Tile for Game (MAH-JONGG).

If a player completes his hand by drawing the winning tile, his hand containing no other score, according to the Standard Score Sheet, his score would be 22. If the player had Punged instead of Drawn the winning tile to complete this hand, he would have been entitled to the special bonus of 10 points as consolation for No Score other than Game and his score would have been 30.

Some players feel that they should be entitled to more for having Drawn the winning tile and agree on an optional double for this hand, scoring the hand as 44 instead of 22 points.


Beginners are advised to thoroughly master the Standard Score Sheet and play the regular game for some time before making use of any of the options described in this chapter. They are of interest to advanced students of MAH-JONGG and so deserve and have been given a place in this book.

VIII
The Chinese Game 麻雀

There are no printed and generally adopted rules for 麻雀 in Chinese or in any other language, and the game is played in various ways in different sections of China. There are, however, certain generally accepted rules and customs which are observed by all Chinese players.

The game of MAH-JONGG, the rules for which are outlined in the preceding pages, embraces a number of these Chinese methods of play, but for the benefit of those who desire to study all the complicated Chinese formalities and customs of the Chinese game 麻雀, those features of 麻雀 are given below that differ from the author's game of MAH-JONGG.


Drawing for Seats: In 麻雀 the Chinese play by Rounds, and unless otherwise stipulated, it is understood that four complete rounds are to be played. At the start of the game the players draw for positions at the table and these positions cannot be changed until after the completion of the four rounds.

In determining the players' positions at the table, the Mingg (Fig. 10) and the Four Wind Discs (Fig. 10) come into use. These and the two dice are used as follows:

The Mingg for Seats: First, the four discs are mixed and placed face down in a row on the table, as in Fig. 35, the one nearest the center of the table being No. 1, next No. 2,

Fig. 35

next No. 3, and the one nearest the corner of the table No. 4. The four players then take temporary positions, one on each side of the table, and any one of the four players then throws the two dice to determine the seat in front of which the Mingg shall be placed. If the total of the two dice is

5 or 9, the Mingg is placed before the player who threw the dice.
2, 6, or 10, the Mingg is placed before the player at his right.
3, 7, or 11, the Mingg is placed before the player opposite him.
4, 8, or 12, the Mingg is placed before the player at his left.

This seat in front of which the Mingg is placed then becomes the seat of the Preliminary East.

The player who first threw the dice, again throws the two dice to determine how the discs shall be drawn. If on this throw the two dice total

5 or 9, he himself takes Disc No. 1.
2, 6, or 10, the player at his right takes Disc No. 1.
3, 7, or 11, the player opposite him takes Disc No. 1.
4, 8, or 12, the player at his left takes Disc No. 1.

After the player indicated by the dice has taken Disc No. 1, Discs No. 2, 3, and 4 are taken one by each player in turn (counter-clockwise).

Now, each player looks at his Disc to see what he has drawn. The player who has drawn the East Disc takes the seat of Preliminary East as indicated by the Mingg. The player who has drawn the South Disc takes the seat to the right of the Mingg, the one who has drawn the West Disc takes the seat opposite the Mingg, and the one who has drawn the North Disc takes the seat at the left of the Mingg.

The Mingg for Play: Now the four walls are set up and shoved forward to form a hollow square.

Then the player who is Preliminary East and who has the Mingg in front of him throws the two dice to determine who shall start the play as the first East Wind. If the two dice total

5 or 9, he, himself, becomes East Wind.
2, 6, or 10, the player at his right becomes East Wind.
3, 7, or 11, the player opposite him becomes East Wind.
4, 8, or 12, the player at his left becomes East Wind.

The Mingg and the four Discs are then placed in front of this player, who has become East Wind and who starts the play. East Wind then throws the two dice to determine how the Wall shall be opened, as described on Page 8, and the Draw takes place and play begins.


Playing by Rounds: The Mingg always passes as East passes, and is kept exposed to view for the guidance of all players to indicate which player is East and what round is being played. The Discs are used to keep track of the number of rounds.

At the beginning of the first round the first East places the East Disc on top of the Mingg. As East passes, this Disc is passed with the Mingg to the succeeding East, the original East retaining the other three Discs. After each of the four players has completed his turn (or turns) as East, marking the completion of the first round, known as the East Wind Round, the Mingg is in the possession of the player who was originally North. This player then retains the East Wind Disc and passes the Mingg to the player on his right, who was originally East. This latter player, who still retains three Discs, should then place the South Disc on the Mingg and the play proceeds as before.

The second round is known as the South Wind Round. Upon the completion of this round, the player who was originally North retains the South Disc and the original East Wind places the West Disc on the Mingg and starts the West Wind Round.

Upon the completion of the fourth and last Round, which is known as the North Wind Round, the player who was originally North is in possession of all four discs and the player who was originally East has none.

If it is desired to continue play, positions at the table must be decided again by the dice. The player who won the last hand, throws the dice, and seats are again chosen in the same manner as at the beginning of play. At this time, should any player object to his seat, as determined by the dice, owing to the fact that he is preceded by the same player sitting on his left as during the first four rounds (or for any other reason), he may call for a second or even a third draw for seats. In no case, however, may he call for more than the third draw.

At the beginning of the play no player has the privilege of calling for another draw, but all must abide by the seats as first determined by the dice and draw.


Wind of the Round: The Chinese sometimes play the Wind of the Round as a special Wind, any three (or four) of which entitle any player to double his score. For example, if during the South Wind Round, East, West, or North hold three (or four) South Winds, he is entitled to double his total score once for holding the Wind of the Round. If on the South Wind Round, South holds three (or four) South Winds, he would be entitled to double his total score twice, once for three (or four) of his own Wind and once because it is the Wind of the Round.


Draw Game: The procedure for a Draw Game in 麻雀 is given below. It is different from the procedure in MAH-JONGG.

Should the game proceed with no hand completed and no sets of fours declared, both loose tiles still being unused, until there are only 14 tiles (7 pairs) left in the wall, none of these last 14 tiles can be drawn, but the game is declared a draw and no scores count. In counting these fourteen tiles, the two loose tiles on the end of the wall are included in the fourteen. In this case, East does not pass, but the same player continues as East.

At the beginning of each hand, it is usual to leave a little space between these last fourteen tiles and the rest of the Wall, in order to separate this Dead Portion of the Wall from the last tile that can be drawn. (See the arrow in Fig. 12.)

For every set of fours that is declared, necessitating always the drawing of a loose tile, two tiles (one pair) are moved from the Live Portion of the wall to the Dead Portion, i. e., the dividing line moves two tiles (one pair) nearer to the point of play. If all the tiles are drawn from the Live Portion of the Wall up to this dividing line, with no player having completed his hand, the game is declared a Draw and no scores count. Where the game has been declared a Draw, after one or more sets of fours has been declared, East is not retained, but passes to the next player to the right.

In Fig. 15, one set of fours has already been declared and one loose tile drawn; according to the Chinese method of play there should be fifteen tiles in the Dead Portion of the Wall, including the one loose tile which still remains. If two sets of fours have been declared, there should be sixteen tiles in the Dead Portion of the wall, including two loose tiles; if three sets of fours have been declared, there should be seventeen tiles in the Dead Portion of the wall, including one loose tile; etc.

A player may not declare a set of fours, nor draw a loose tile after the last tile from the Live Portion of the wall has been drawn. He may, however, declare a set of fours after the next to the last tile from the Live Portion of the wall has been drawn; in which case, the next tile becomes a part of the Dead Portion of the wall, and cannot be drawn, and the loose tile which is drawn after the set of fours becomes his last chance to win.


To Complete a Hand by Filling in the Only Possible Place to Win: In 麻雀, the Chinese score this differently from the method of scoring in MAH-JONGG. Their score is as follows:

To Complete the Hand by Obtaining the second to a Pair 2 points
To Complete the Hand by Filling a Run in the Middle 2 points
To Complete the Hand by Filling a Run open on only one end 2 points

This difference is best illustrated by scoring below the hand shown in Fig. 21, by the Chinese Method of scoring and comparing this with the scoring according to the Standard Score Sheet for MAH-JONGG as given on Pages 46–47.

In Fig. 21, if the winning tile which completed the hand was the five of characters, the hand scores 10 extra for "No Score other than Game" and the total score is 30 points.

If, however, the winning tile was the seven of Bamboo, the player has a score of 2 for filling a Run open on only one end. His total score is then only 22 instead of 30 points. 22 is the minimum score.

If the winning tile was the six of characters, the player scores 2 for filling a Run in the middle, and his total score is 22. If the winning tile was the two of dots (which must have been drawn as it is a part of a concealed combination and not exposed), the player scores 2 for drawing the winning tile and his total score is 22.

If the winning tile was the three of dots, the player scores 2 for drawing the winning tile and 2 for winning by filling a Run in the middle. The total score is then 24.

If the winning tile was the two of bamboo, in 麻雀, the player scores 2 for drawing the winning tile and 2 for winning by obtaining the second to a pair. The total score is then 24. If the two of bamboo had been obtained from the board to complete the hand instead of Drawn from the Wall, note that the player would have had the option of exposing a two of bamboo from his hand to form his final pair on the table, which would give him a score of 22, or of exposing the 3 and 4 of bamboo from his hand to form a Run (2, 3, 4 of bamboo) on the table. The player, in this case, should Pung for the Run and not for the Pair, as then his hand would contain no score other than game and he would be entitled to the bonus of 10 points.

Another illustration of this point is where a player is ready to go out with an incomplete hand, as in Fig. 36.

In 麻雀, if the player obtains the seven of characters from the board to complete this hand, he should expose the five and six of characters, with the seven, to complete a

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 36

Run open at both ends. This will give him a hand with no score other than Game, which scores 30 points. If he exposes the 8 and 9 of characters, with the 7, he has completed a Run open at only one end, which counts 2, making his total score only 22 points. In MAH-JONGG, according to the Standard Score Sheet, in either case the player would score 30 points on this hand, as the hand was not filled in the only possible place to win and, therefore, contains no score other than Game.

But in 麻雀, if the player draws the seven of characters from the Wall, he should expose the eight and nine of characters with the seven, which gives him a total score of 24 points (2 for drawing the winning tile and 2 for completing a Run open at only one end). In this case, if he exposes the five and six of characters with the seven, his total score is only 22 points. According to the Standard Score Sheet, in either case this hand would score 22, as there was more than one way to go out, and an extra 2 points cannot be scored for filling in the only possible place to win.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 37

Fig. 37. The above is an incomplete hand which is ready to go out. The one or four of characters will complete this hand. If the hand is completed by Punging the winning tile from the board, according to the Standard Score Sheet for MAH-JONGG this hand would score 30 points (i. e., 20 for game and 10 extra for no score other than game).

But in 麻雀, this would score 2 for winning by completing the second to a pair, making the total score 22 points.

The Chinese refer to completing the second to a pair as 麻雀—their general term for obtaining a complete hand is to "Hu" or "Wu." They also refer to obtaining four of a kind as a "Kang" rather than as a Pung.

The above are all differences which tend to make the game more complex and add nothing to the interest or to the skilful features of the play.

Hand Entirely of One Suit or Hand All of One Suit Except for Honor Tiles: In 麻雀 these hands are never doubled three times or once respectively unless they are winning hands which have been completed for Game. This discourages attempts for large scores with one-suit hands and is an important difference between 麻雀 and MAH-JONGG.


Dead Hand: A Dead Hand, that is, a hand containing more or less than the correct number of tiles, can never be completed for Game.

The Chinese play that if the Dead Hand contains less than the correct number of tiles, the scoring combinations contained in the hand may be counted in settling the scores after another player has completed his hand.[5]

If the hand contains more than the correct number of tiles, the scoring combinations contained in the hand may not be counted. Where it has previously been agreed to impose a more severe penalty for a hand holding more than the correct number of tiles, play is stopped as soon as the Dead Hand is discovered, and the player holding the Dead Hand must pay each other player the Limit, East paying or receiving double.


Hand entirely of Honor Tiles (All Winds and/or Dragons—No Suit): In 麻雀 the Chinese do not double three times for this hand, as they score the Limit on such a hand regardless of the scoring combinations contained therein.

In 麻雀 the Chinese in all parts of China generally recognize as Limit Hands a complete hand containing three sets of three (or four) Dragons, and also the following complete hands listed under Optional Scores:

The Four Wind Hand.

Winning Hand Containing No Tiles other than Ones, Nines, and Honor Tiles.

Winning Hand containing four concealed combinations of three of a kind.

The other hands listed under Optional Scores are played only in certain sections of China.


Incorrect Win: In 麻雀, if a player incorrectly declares his hand to be complete ("Hu" or "Wu") and thereby causes one or more of the other players to expose or destroy his hand, he is penalized and is required to pay each of the other players the amount of the penalty, which has been previously agreed upon. This penalty is fixed sometimes at 100 points, sometimes at one-half the Limit, sometimes at the full Limit. East receives double the amount of the penalty from the player who is penalized, but if East himself is penalized, he must pay double the amount of the penalty to each other player.


Insurance Penalties: Among Chinese players it is customary to require each player to insure each of the others against certain large scores which may occur as a result of risky discards. Where this Insurance Method is used, the insurance penalty is exacted in the following instances, only:

1. Where a player has exposed (including concealed combinations of four of a kind which have been declared) two combinations of three (or four) Dragons, and another player discards one of the third kind of Dragons, which allows the first player to complete his hand (with three sets of Dragons which double his score three times), the discarding player must pay the entire amount due to the winner from the other two losers, in addition to his own losses. The other two players are thus insured against the heavy loss due to this risky discard on the part of the discarding player.

If the Dragon discarded is Punged by the first player, but this player does not complete his hand until on a later play, the discarder of the Dragon must still pay one-half of the total amount due to the winner from the other two losers, in addition to his own losses. The other half is borne by the other two losers.

If the Dragon discarded is Punged by the first player, but he never succeeds in completing his hand for "Wu," no penalty attaches to the discarder.

2. Where a player has exposed (including concealed combinations of four of a kind which have been declared) three or more combinations of one suit, and another player discards one of this same suit which allows the first player to complete his hand with a hand entirely of one suit (doubling score three times), the discarding player must pay the entire amount due to the winner from the other two losers, in addition to his own losses.

If the tile discarded is Punged or Chowed by the first player, who does not complete his hand at once, but on a later play by drawing from the wall the winning tile of the same suit (giving him a hand entirely of one suit which doubles his score three times), the discarding player must still pay one-half of the amount due to the winner from the other two losers, in addition to his own losses. The other half is borne by the other two losers.

If, however, the first player did not draw the winning tile from the wall, but finally won on a discard of a tile of the same suit by a third player, the player who made the first of the two discards is still responsible for one-half of the total amount due to the winner. The player who made the final discard is responsible for the other half of the total amount due to the winner, the fourth player paying nothing.

If the tile discarded is Punged or Chowed by the first player, but the first player never succeeds in completing his hand with a hand entirely of one suit, then no penalty attaches to the discarder.

3. Where a player has exposed three or more sets of Winds or three or more combinations containing no tiles other than ones, nines, or Honor Tiles, the other players must insure each other against allowing this player to win on a limit hand, as the result of a discard of any Wind or of any one, nine, or Honor Tile. In other words, the players must insure against a Four Wind Hand and also against a hand containing no tiles other than ones, nines, and Honor Tiles. The procedure in this case is as outlined under paragraph 2 for insuring against a hand entirely of one suit.

Note.—If a player declares a fouth to a set of three already exposed on the table and this fourth tile allows a player to win under the circumstances outlined above, the player declaring the fourth is liable to the same penalties as if he had discarded this tile. (See Stealing the Fourth to Win, Page 22.)

But if the discarding player himself has a hand which is waiting and which contains combinations of a rank higher than or equal to the hand against which he must insure, the discarding player is not liable for the insurance penalty. For insurance purposes, these high hands are divided into three ranks.

First Rank:

A waiting Hand entirely of One Suit.

A Waiting Hand with three completed sets of Winds, including the player's own, and one or a pair of the fourth Wind. This hand, if completed, would be a Four Wind Hand (see Page 53).

Second Rank:

A Waiting Hand with two completed sets of Winds, not including the player's own, and two pairs of the other two Winds. This is a possible Four Wind Hand, provided the player should later succeed in Punging a third to the pair of his own Wind (see Page 53).

A Waiting Hand with two completed sets of Dragons and a pair of the third Dragon. This is a possible Three Dragon Hand, provided the player should later succeed in Punging the third to the pair of Dragons.

Third Rank:

A Waiting Hand containing no tiles other than ones and nines and/or Honor Tiles.

A Waiting Hand which is merely all of one suit except for Honor Tiles is not exempt from the insurance penalty; nor is such a hand insured against, even though it may contain three doubles.

In the event that a player's hand contains no tile other than one which might make him liable for the insurance penalty, he must, of course, discard one of these tiles, and in this case he is exempt from the penalty—this, whether his hand is Waiting or not. If this tile discarded is the winning tile, scores are settled in the ordinary way.

But if a player has Chowed or Punged and then on the same play finds himself with no tiles in his hand other than one which might make him liable for the insurance penalty, he discards one of these tiles and in this case he is liable for the insurance penalty if this tile discarded is the winning tile.

In case the player against whom the other players must insure is waiting for a certain tile, if this tile is discarded and misses the notice of the player who is waiting for it, then if a similar tile is subsequently discarded, the waiting player cannot take this second discard unless he has had a turn and has drawn from the wall in the interim between the two discards.

When an insurance penalty is paid, all scores of the three losers are cancelled.

Among some Chinese players it is customary to impose another insurance penalty, as follows:

If any player in one hand completes four combinations by Chowing or by Punging from the player on his left, and immediately or later completes his hand, this latter player who gave him four such useful tiles must pay the entire losses of the other two players, in addition to his own. This condition holds, no matter who discards the winning tile or if it is drawn from the wall, and no matter what the score of the winner's hand may be.


New Method: In the New Method which is fast finding favor in certain Chinese communities, East does not pay out nor receive double stakes. The player who discards the tile which allows another player to complete his hand, pays the winner double stakes. No double stakes are paid between any of the three losers. If the winner draws the winning tile from the wall, he receives double stakes from each of the three other players.

In the New Method a player is not liable for the insurance penalty, if he holds any Waiting hand at the time he discards the winning tile.

The New Method of play has a great deal of merit, and is favored by more advanced players, as it puts more of a premium on skill and a penalty on carelessness or lack of foresight in discarding. However, this method is not recommended for beginners.


Other Methods: Where players prefer a game with higher or lower scores it is sometimes decided, prior to the beginning of play, to score more or less than 20 points for Game. 10 points, 30 points, 50 points, and 100 points are occasionally used as a score for game instead of 20 points.

In another method of play, one which is seldom used, East does not pass from one player to the next in rotation (counterclockwise). Instead, the player who wins the hand becomes East for the succeeding hand.

In some localities there is a rule in force that as soon as four sets of four of a kind have been declared, a Draw Game is declared, the East passing to the right. This rule is not generally recognized by the Chinese except in a few sections.

In many places there is an interesting Chinese rule in force with regard to Punging. If a player fails or refuses to Pung a certain discarded tile and another player discards a similar tile, the first player may not Pung this second discard unless he has had a turn and drawn from the wall in the interim between the two discards. This applies to Punging for three or four of a kind and for completion of a hand as well. The player may, however, take this second discard for a Chow, even though he has not drawn from the wall in the interim.


Nine Mummies—New Draw: In some parts of China instead of playing for the Thirteen Orphan Hand (see Page 60), if a player has among his original fourteen tiles nine or more different ones, nines, and Honor Tiles, without a pair of any kind in his hand ("Nine Mummies"), he may, at his option, lay down his hand and demand a new Draw.[6]

East obtains his original fourteen tiles on the Original Draw from the wall and consequently must announce at once his intention to call for a new Draw in this way. The other players may claim this privilege at any time until they make their first discard, but not later.

If a previous arrangement is made, players may receive bonuses on a Nine Mummies hand. If it has been decided to pay a bonus, the bonus is usually 50 points from each player if nine of these single ones, nines, and Honor Tiles are held, and 50 points extra from each player for each additional one, nine, or Honor Tile that is held over and above nine. For example, if a player held twelve of these single tiles among his original fourteen tiles, he could claim 200 points from each player.

Similarly, it is sometimes agreed that where a player among his original fourteen tiles has thirteen tiles which are "not touching" (i. e., where no tiles go to form a pair or an unbroken sequence of two) he may at his option lay down his hand and demand a new Draw. In order to take advantage of this privilege, East must declare at once before discarding, and South, West, and North before making their first discard. Note that any tile of the fourteen may be segregated in order to show a hand with thirteen tiles "not touching."

Hands like the above, where it is agreed that a new draw may be demanded, take precedence over other original "waiting hands" except only The Hand from Heaven (see Page 36).

In cases of hands of this sort when a new Draw is demanded, no scores count and East retains his position for the new shuffle and draw, except when East himself demands the new Draw; in this latter case the East passes.


The Limit: 300 points is usually fixed as the Limit, but a Limit of 400, 500, or 600 points is also sometimes played.

A table rule which is frequently played by the Chinese is that when a player wins with a Limit Hand, the three losing players do not settle with each other but their scores are cancelled.

Another interesting rule played by many Chinese is that when a player retains the East by winning nine consecutive times as East, he is entitled to collect the Limit from each of the three other players on his ninth win, regardless of the score in his hand. This, of course, seldom happens.


Settling Scores: Some players find it convenient to settle their scores by paying in counters to the nearest ten points instead of using the small counters with the value of two points. For example, where this is done, 12 points and 14 points would count as 10 points, and 16 points and 18 points as 20 points.

Similarly at the end of play, players find it convenient to figure up their winnings and losses to the nearest hundred points. Where this is done it is customary for each player to put all of his counters in excess of an even hundred points into a pool in the center of the table. Even if a player has no extra counters to put in, he is entitled to a share in the pool. Each player then throws the dice once, and the high throw wins the pool; if two or more players tie, these tying players throw again to decide who wins the pool.

This settlement of small counters under a hundred is the common method of play among American and European players in China. The total of the small counters in the center will be exactly 100, 200, or 300.

IX
Variations of MAH-JONGG

MAH-JONGG for Three Players.

MAH-JONGG is a good game for three players, as well as four. In the three-handed game the procedure in general is the same as for the four-handed game, with the following exceptions which should be carefully noted.

The four West Winds are removed from the set, leaving a total of 132 tiles. The wall is built in three rows of 44 tiles each (22 tiles long and two high). These three rows are then shoved forward to form a triangle.

"East" is determined as in the four-handed game. The player to his right is South and to his left North, without regard to the intervening vacant seat at the table. There is no West. Each of the three players is responsible for building and, if so indicated by the dice, opening one side of the wall. East throws the two dice and counts off in a counterclockwise direction, beginning with himself as one, the number indicated by the total of the two dice. Thus, if the two dice total

1, 4, 7, 10, East himself retains the dice for the second throw.
2, 5, 8, 11, South takes the dice for the second throw.
3, 6, 9, 12, North takes the dice for the second throw.

The rest of the procedure is the same as in the four-handed game except that on the original draw East must take his thirteenth and fourteenth tiles on two distinct draws and not on one draw as is done in the four-handed game (see Page 11).

The scoring is the same except that the total number of points won and lost is generally less than in the four-handed game, and it is, therefore, customary to play the three-handed game with a higher Limit, usually 600 points.


MAH-JONGG for Two Players.

MAH-JONGG may also be played by two players.

The entire set of 136 tiles is used and four walls built as in the four-handed game. Each player builds his own wall and the wall to his right.

The two players alternate as East and West. East takes care of all the duties that would be performed by South in the four-handed game in connection with throwing the dice and opening the wall; similarly West takes care of the duties that would be performed by North in this respect.

East is entitled to double his score for three (or four) South Winds, as well as for three (or four) East Winds. West is entitled to double his score for three (or four) North Winds, as well as for three (or four) West Winds.

In the two-handed game it is very much easier to obtain a complete hand than in the ordinary four-handed game. It is usually understood, therefore, that neither player be allowed to declare for MAH-JONGG unless he has a complete hand containing two or more doubling combinations.

The scores are consequently much larger than in the four-handed game and one-suit hands are frequent. The Limit is usually fixed at 300 points.


MAH-JONGG for Five Players.

This is a variation of the game which will hold the attention and interest of a fifth player.

Five rounds are played instead of four, each of the players in turn sitting out for one round while the other four players play as in the ordinary four-handed game.

After every hand, each of the three losers pays the player who is sitting out the base score 20 points, and for every double in the winning hand, these three players must double the number of points to be paid to the fifth player. For example, if South wins with a hand containing two doubles, North and West must each pay the fifth player 80 points and East must pay him 160 points—this in addition to what these three players must pay South—South would pay out nothing—nor does the fifth player pay out anything even to the winner.

It is evident, therefore, that the player sitting out does nothing but receive counters during one round and pays out nothing, not even to the winner of the hand. This serves to hold the interest of the player while he sits out and is fair to all players as each player sits out for one round in turn.


Progressive MAH-JONGG.

If desired, where there are two or more tables, MAH-JONGG can be played as a progressive game.

Four hands are played at each table. East passes each hand, each player having a turn as East. In the event of a Dead Hand, East also passes.

At the end of four hands the players figure up their counters to find the number of points won or lost and enter these as plus or minus scores on cards provided for the purpose. Care should be taken that the totals of the plus and minus scores at the end of the four hands balance before they are entered on the cards.

The two players having the highest scores then progress to the next table where four more hands are played in the same way. The two players with the lowest scores remain at the same table for another four hands, but are privileged to change their seats.

Before starting play, as soon as each new table is ready, counters are redistributed, 2,000 points to each player.

The players progress in this way from table to table, and at the end of the play the plus and minus scores on each player's card are totaled and the highest net score determines the winner of the progressive competition play.


One Dice Throw.

Some players start a hand by throwing the two dice only once: this throw indicating both the wall to be opened and the tiles to be removed. For example, if a six and one are thrown, making seven, then the seventh pair of tiles in West's wall are removed.

X
MAH-JONGG With the Goofs or Seasons

This is a variation of MAH-JONGG played with a set containing eight extra tiles of special design, known as the

Fig. 38. The Eight Seasons—or Flowers

Seasons. They are also sometimes called Flowers, Flower Gardens, or "Goofs." They are in two series of four each, one series marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 in one color, and the other series marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 in another color. Usually one set is marked in green and the other in red. The design of the seasons varies in different sets. For example, in one very popular set of seasons, one series depicts four styles of Chinese architecture and the other series four methods of transportation in China, as shown in the illustration on the preceding page.

If East Wind draws either of the No. 1 Seasons, he is said to have his own Season; similarly, the No. 2 Seasons are South Wind's own Seasons, the No. 3 Seasons are West Wind's own Seasons, and the No. 4 Seasons are North Wind's own Seasons.

The Seasons cannot be Punged or Chowed from the table, but can be obtained only by drawing from the wall. A Season is never discarded, but is always declared immediately by placing it face up with the exposed part of the hand, and a loose tile drawn from the end of the wall to make up the correct number of tiles in the hand. That is, after declaring a Season the procedure is the same as after declaring four of a kind.

After the original draw and prior to East's first discard, East declares any Season or Seasons that he may have in his hand, drawing a loose tile for each Season declared, to make up the correct number of tiles in his hand. South, West, and North then declare in turn any Seasons which they may have in their hands. Each draws in turn a loose tile for each Season declared so as to give each thirteen tiles in his concealed hand. In doing this, East first declares all of his Seasons, replacing them by loose tiles, then South replaces all of his, then, similarly, West and North in their turn.

All Seasons obtained on the original Draw are thus declared before East makes his first discard, including any Seasons which may be Drawn as loose tiles. East then makes his first discard as described under "The Play," on Page 13.

After East has made his first discard and the play has begun, any Season which is drawn should be declared at once as soon as it is drawn. If, after declaring a Season a player draws another Season, as a loose tile, he should declare this at once on the same turn and draw another loose tile to make up the correct number of tiles in his hand.

The Seasons score as follows:

Each Season Scores 4 points
One of a player's own Season Double the total score once
Both of a player's own Season Double the total score twice
All four Seasons of one color Double the total score three times

These Doubles for the Seasons are in addition to any other doubling combinations the hand may contain. These scores and doubles for the Seasons apply to all hands whether they have been completed for MAH-JONGG or not.

Variation of the above rule commonly played by foreigners in Shanghai is that a player doubles once if he has two Seasons of his own number, but does not double for only one season of his own number. This variation does not affect the above value of a series of four.

A player's own number will of course occur in any series of four that he may hold, but he does not double separately 4 for this number; he doubles only three times for a complete series of four.

The Seasons are usually included with a MAH-JONGG set, but they are not recommended for play. They are seldom used by the Chinese, themselves, and never by Chinese experts, as they are a side issue and add nothing to the game. They unduly complicate the game, frequently causing hands to go dead and at the same time lessen the possibilities for use of skill in the play. Experts in China object to playing with the Seasons because absolutely no skill is required in thus burdening and delaying the play.

Some players prefer the Seasons because they make for higher scores. Where players desire higher scores, it is preferable either to increase the base score for MAH-JONGG to more than 20 points or to increase the Limit or to increase the value of the counters. Any or all of these methods are better than to introduce the Seasons into the Game.

Note that the doubling for the Seasons is in addition to any other doubling to which the hand may be entitled.

If one or more seasons are declared with a hand that contains no score of any kind (see Fig. 39) then ten points are added for "no score" as in the regular game described in Fig, 21.

When the Seasons are played, the scores of the hands run much higher than in the ordinary game, and limit hands are not infrequent if the limit is fixed at 300 points. When playing with the Seasons a higher limit, such as 600 points, is frequently agreed upon. There must be an understanding with regard to the Limit before the play commences.

Examples for Scoring With the Seasons

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 39

Fig. 39. The above hand was completed by Punging the 3 characters and, when held by South, scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For no score other than Game 10 points
30 points
Each Season scores 4 = 2 × 4 = 8 points
38 points
Doubling once for hand all one suit except for Honor Tiles = 76 points
Doubling once for one No. 2 Season, which is South's own Season = 152 points

Note that in doubling for one-suit hands the Seasons are not considered. "They are classed neither as a part of a-suit nor as Honor Tiles, but as a separate part of the hand. If the hand were entirely of one suit, the score would be doubled three times, regardless of the Seasons. However, the value of the Seasons (4 points each) is added to the score before doubling begins.

If this same hand (Fig. 39) were held by North, the score would be as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For no score other than Game 10 points
30 points
Each Season scores 4 = 2 × 4 = 8 points
38 points
Doubling once for hand all one suit except for Honor Tiles = 76 points
Doubling once for one No. 4 Season, which is North's own Season = 152 points

If this same hand (Fig. 39) were held by East, the score would be as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For no score other than Game 10 points
30 points
Each Season scores 4 = 2 × 4 = 8 points
38 points
Doubling once for hand all one suit except for Honor Tiles = 76 points

If this same hand were held by West, the score would be as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
A pair of player's own Wind 2 points
22 points
Each Season scores 4 = 2 × 4 = 8 points
30 points
Doubling once for hand all one suit except for Honor Tiles = 60 points
Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 40

Fig. 40. This is a complete hand which was completed by drawing the one of characters and is held by West. This hand scores as follows:

For Winning the Hand (MAH-JONGG) 20 points
For three fives of dots, exposed 2 points
For three White Dragons, exposed 4 points
For three twos of bamboo, exposed 2 points
For three ones of character, concealed 8 points
Each Season scores 4 = 5 × 4 = 20 points
Winning Tile Drawn (not Punged or Chowed) 2 points
No Runs, exposed or concealed 10 points
68 points
Doubling for three White Dragons = 136 points
Doubling for one No. 3 Season, which is West Wind's own Season = 272 points
Doubling three times for All Four Seasons of one Color = 272 × 2 × 2 × 2 = 2176 points
This hand would score the Limit.
Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 41

Fig. 41. The above hand was held by North, who was not yet ready to go out when another player declared for MAH-JONGG. This hand scores as follows:

For three North Winds, exposed 4 points
Each Season scores 4 = 3 × 4 = 12 points
For three East Winds, concealed 8 points
24 points
Doubling for three of player's own Wind 48 points
Doubling twice for two No. 4 Seasons, North's own Season = 48 × 2 × 2 = 192 points

Note that the score is doubled for the Seasons, even though: the hand was not completed for MAH-JONGG.


Each Wall, when playing with the Seasons, consists of eighteen pairs of tiles instead of seventeen, on account of the eight additional tiles used.

XI
MAH-JONGG Suggestions and Pointers for Play

The Set: If a MAH-JONGG set is of good quality and workmanship it should last for many years. The set should not be exposed to extreme or widely fluctuating conditions of heat and cold nor to dampness.

Much of the popularity of the game may be ascribed to the beauty and attractiveness of the one hundred and forty skilfully carved tiles. The Chinese art craftsman has in this MAH-JONGG tile, made a thing of beauty which it is a pleasure to handle in the playing of the game. It is possible to secure sets at a wide range of price, but it is really worth while to secure tiles of superior workmanship, color, and design, as an attractive set adds much to the pleasure of the game. A good MAH-JONGG set lasts indefinitely, and unlike playing cards need not be constantly replaced. The quality and attractiveness of the set should be given first consideration rather than the initial cost.

It is most important that the tiles be kept clean so that they can never be identified from the backs.[7]

It is most important that none of the tiles be lost. This seldom, if ever, happens if the tiles are properly packed away in the box after play is finished.

Each set of tiles is the individual handicraft of Chinese ivory carvers, and no two sets are exactly alike. So it is not possible to duplicate a lost tile. The extra white tiles exactly match the others in size, so that if a tile is lost it is necessary to have the design of the lost tile engraved upon one of the extra white tiles.

It is not a good plan to remove four of the white tiles permanently from the set, as they would probably be mislaid and so not available in case one were needed, and also, if a plain white tile were not used as much as the other tiles, when marked and used to replace a lost tile its newness would be evident and would identify it to the players.


The Table: The most satisfactory table for MAHJONGG is one which is somewhat higher, larger, and steadier than the ordinary card table. A table 32 inches square and 30 inches high is the best size.

A cloth cover should be used on the table and fastened firmly in place. This does away to some extent with the noise in shuffling and discarding the tiles, and also serves to protect the tiles. The cloth should be white, in order to reflect the light upon the players' tiles. Or the usual green cloth covering such as is used on card tables is often used.

A small drawer let into each side of the table and divided into four lateral compartments, one for each denomination of the counters, is a great convenience.

The foregoing is the ideal MAH-JONGG table, but any ordinary card table can be used where a special table is not available.


Building and Opening the Wall: The setting up of the four walls may seem slow at first, but after a few hands it will be an easy matter to build rapidly. Similarly, the formalities for opening the Wall and the Draw may seem complicated to the beginner who is learning the game from the text, but these are really quite simple in actual play.

After the formalities and procedure of MAH-JONGG have been mastered, on first playing the game it appears very simple and without many possibilities. The more one plays, however, the more these possibilities will present themselves and the more it will be realized that MAH-JONGG is a game of skill as well as chance.

Skill in the game of MAH-JONGG can be acquired only by practice, and no attempt is made here to cover all the fine points of the play. It is to be hoped, however, that the few suggestions given below may be found helpful for beginners.


Arrangement of the Hand.

The first thing that should always be done after setting up the hand, is to count the tiles to see that the number held is correct; i. e., fourteen in East's original hand and thirteen for the other players. It is also well to count the tiles at frequent intervals during the play before drawing or discarding, so as to prevent any possibility of a "Dead Hand." Remember that prior to MAH-JONGG, the total of the number of tiles in the concealed and exposed parts of any player's hand should be thirteen (plus one additional tile for any set of fours that has been declared by the hand). The number of tiles in the concealed portion of the hand before drawing and after discarding must be either 1, 4, 7, 10, or 13, and never any other number.

After the Draw, the tiles should be grouped together into suits and given some systematic arrangement in the hand, in order to facilitate rapid play and at the same time prevent mistakes in discarding and the missing of opportunities to Pung, Chow, or MAH-JONGG. A desirable arrangement is to have the Dragons, the player's own Wind and completed or desirable combinations at one end of the hand and the tiles to be discarded at the other end. In this way as the play progresses, any tiles that become undesirable may be shifted to that end of the hand from which the player discards. Care should be taken to indicate one's own Wind by separating it from such other Winds as may be in the hand.

No spaces should be left between the tiles which would give the opponents a clue as to the number of combinations in the hand. It might be mentioned here that many experts, who can read their hands almost at a glance, do not favor any systematic arrangement of their hands into suits, as they feel that where this is done clever players, by watching closely the way opponents handle their draws and their discards, can judge with some accuracy the make-up of their hands. A beginner, however, should always observe some systematic arrangement which may be varied at frequent intervals if found desirable.


Plan of Play: The player should determine at once what his plan of play will be and discard accordingly. A player, however, should always be prepared to change or shift his plan of play. This is often necessary, frequently several times in the play of one hand, depending upon opponents' progress as shown by exposed combinations, depending upon the tiles Drawn and held in the concealed part of the player's own hand, and upon the discards of other players that interfere with his plan of play.

After the Draw, a player should size up his hand to see if it offers good possibilities for MAH-JONGG or for high scoring combinations, or whether the chance for MAH-JONGG or for high scoring combinations are slight. In the first case, he should play on the offensive, i. e., he should discard all tiles which are of no use to him and concentrate on completing his hand for MAH-JONGG. In the second case, he should play on the defensive and try to keep his opponents from completing their hands for MAH-JONGG with a large score.

Sometimes a hand which after the Draw has good offensive possibilities does not improve rapidly enough and the player finds it advisable to shift to defensive play. Similarly a hand which after the Draw appears to have few possibilities may sometimes develop rapidly into a good offensive hand.

Hands with high scoring combinations or possibilities of one suit are usually strong offensive hands.

Offensive Play.

Uncompleted Combinations: A novice will soon learn to recognize as a very useful uncompleted combination a sequence of two in the same suit open at both ends. He will also recognize that an uncompleted combination such as two fours and a five in the same unit is particularly useful, as it may be completed either by Punging for three of a kind or by Chowing for a Run. Less useful uncompleted combinations are sequences of two of the same suit open at only one end or in the middle.

It is most essential that the discards and the exposed tiles on the table in other players' hands be followed carefully. The usefulness of certain uncompleted combinations is obviously diminished as tiles necessary to complete these combinations are discarded or used by others, and in some cases the uncompleted combinations become worthless and should be discarded. For example, if three threes of dots are in sight on the board, there is very little chance of filling the uncompleted Run consisting of the one and two of dots, and if four threes of dots are in sight this is impossible.


Discarding: The least desirable tiles should be discarded first. These are usually single Winds other than the player's own, as these cannot be formed into sequences and are difficult to form into combinations which complete the hand. It is well to discard an opponent's Wind early in the game before he has had many draws to secure a pair and consequently be in a position to Pung for three of his own Wind.

The next tiles to be discarded are usually single ones and nines of a suit, these being more difficult to form into a Run as they can be filled only from one end.

Some players make a practice of retaining single Dragons or their own Wind with the hope of obtaining three of a kind, which would double their total score. The question of how long to retain such tiles depends to a great extent on the rest of the player's hand and the progress the other players seem to be making toward completing their hands. When a player is on the offensive, it is seldom good play to keep one of these tiles after one of the same tile has been discarded, nor is it often advisable to break up a good combination in the hand in order to retain such a tile, unless such a tile is desired in order to keep the hand of one suit for the purpose of doubling the score.

Many players, particularly when East, make it a practice to discard their single Dragons early in the hand or not at all. By discarding early, other players are not likely to be in a position to Pung for three of a kind.


Developing the Hand: Never Chow or Pung a tile discarded by the player to the left unless this discard materially improves the hand, as by so doing a chance is lost to draw a new tile from the wall. After each Chow or Pung the hand should be one step nearer completion (MAH-JONGG).

In Chowing where a choice of combinations exists, the player should always Chow to fill that combination which would be more difficult to complete. For example, holding the 5, 6, 8, 9 of the same suit if the player on the left discards the 7 of that suit, use it with the 8 and 9, as this combination is much more difficult to complete than is the sequence 5, 6. But with, for example, the 2, 2, 3, 4, of the same suit, if the 2 of that suit is discarded by the player at the left, it is usually preferable to Chow instead of Punging, leaving the pair of 2's intact in the hand, especially if the player has no other pair in his hand.

A player can by clever discarding sometimes induce the player at his left to discard a tile which he wishes to Chow. For example, if a player has the 5, 6, 8, 9 of a suit he should first discard the 9 and next the 8; then, if the player ahead of him discards a 7 of that suit, he will be in a position to Chow for a Run of 5, 6, 7. Similarly, if a player has already discarded an 8 from a 6, 8 combination and later draws another 8, he should then keep this 6, 8 combination intact as the player ahead of him is now more likely to discard a 7, having already seen an 8 of this suit played from his hand.

Always look ahead and try to develop the hand so that when it is ready to go out there will be as many chances for completion as possible.

It is not easy to go out by Punging the third to one of two pairs, as frequently a pair of the same kind may be concealed in the hand of an opponent. Going out in this way should be avoided unless the player has a hand with no Runs which scores a bonus, and even then it is doubtful if the extra ten points justifies taking the longer chance to win. It is often preferable to try to go out on a Run open at both ends or even one end or in the middle rather than by Punging to one of two pairs; but of course this plan may be entirely changed by previous discards.

Where the player has in his hand a pair of Dragons or of his own Wind, it is well to shape the hand so as to try to go out by Punging for three of a kind, as in this way he has a chance of Punging the third to the pair of Dragons or to the pair of his own Wind, and so doubles his total score.

Avoid having to wait for the second of a pair for MAH-JONGG, as this kind of a hand is generally most difficult of completion. This can usually be avoided by always keeping a pair in the hand. If necessary, refuse chances to Pung for three of a kind or discard one from three of a kind already concealed in the hand, even at a small sacrifice in the score, so that the pair for the complete hand will be preserved. Where the pair is a pair of Dragons or a pair of the player's own Wind it is, of course, worth while to Pung and take a chance on completing another pair for MAH-JONGG.

Exposed
Concealed
Fig. 42

Fig. 42. In the hand shown in Fig. 42 there are three combinations already on the table and one tile to discard, after which the player will be ready to complete the hand for MAH-JONGG. E should be discarded, keeping A and B for the pair, and waiting for a three or six of dots to complete the sequence C, D for MAH-JONGG.

If C were discarded, keeping the two pairs, A and B and D and E and waiting for another two or five of dots, there would be only four chances of filling, while by keeping C-D to be completed as a sequence, there are eight chances of filling to complete the hand, provided, of course, that tiles in sight on the board do not affect this.

With A, B, C, and D in the hand waiting to go out, if another two of dots is played it should not be Punged—and if Drawn it should be discarded, as in either case it would leave a four or five to be matched for a pair with which there would only be three possible chances of filling, against eight chances with A, B, C, and D.

Sequences of more than three in the same suit are usually useful in completing the hand, as with a long sequence of this sort it is sometimes possible to have three or more ways for MAH-JONGG. (See Figs. 22, 25, and 29.) Such hands should be studied carefully so that no possibility for MAH-JONGG is overlooked.

Where there is no pair in the hand a sequence of four in the same suit is useful, as there are then two possibilities of obtaining pairs to complete the hand for MAH-JONGG. For example, with the sequence 2, 3, 4, 5, either the 2 or 5 will complete the pair for MAH-JONG.

Where a player finds himself in a position where he must complete a pair for MAH-JONGG, if it is still early in the hand, a Wind or Dragon, only one of which has already been played, is a good tile to hold as it may be expected to be more quickly discarded.


High-Score Hands: Other things being equal, always try to go out on the hand which gives the largest score. If a hand nears completion early in the game, more chances can be taken in trying to obtain a large-score hand than if it is late in the game when other players are also probably waiting to go out. Many players when East, and playing for double stakes, prefer to take no chances in playing for a large-score hand, but try to go MAH-JONGG as quickly as possible.


One-Suit Hands: It is seldom possible to complete a one-suit hand unless there are nine of this suit in the hand originally.

The three and the seven are the important tiles in a one-suit hand. If the three or the seven of a suit have been Punged for three or four of a kind, it is most difficult to win on a hand which is entirely of this suit. For this reason a player who is playing for a hand entirely of one suit should not Pung the three himself, except when he has two twos and two ones as well, nor Pung the seven except when he has two eights and two nines as well.

When a player is trying for a one-suit hand it is sometimes necessary to throw away a pair or a sequence of two in another suit. When the two tiles are discarded from the hand in succession, the opponents at once become suspicious that the player is trying for a one-suit hand and will be on their guard to prevent this. Where possible it is better not to discard such tiles in succession. Experienced players can handle their tiles in such a manner that opponents are unable to tell whether the tile discarded was the one just drawn from the wall or a tile from the hand. This is always an advantage to the discarder.


Defensive Play. Beginners at MAH-JONGG usually try to win on every hand and pay little attention to defensive play. It is in the defensive game, however, where most of the skill in MAH-JONGG lies.

It is obvious that a player cannot expect to win all of the hands played, but that a player who wins on the average only four hands in sixteen should break even, and if he can win a few more than four hands out of sixteen he should be a good winner. The experienced player realizes, therefore, that on an average he must lose twelve hands out of sixteen and concentrates his attention on cutting his losses to a minimum on those hands which he cannot win himself.

If in the original hand of thirteen tiles there are six or more single tiles which are not part of any uncompleted combination, the odds are strongly against the completion of the hand for MAH-JONGG, unless the hand improves rapidily on the first few plays. With such a hand the player should play purely a defensive game and should not discard Dragons nor other tiles which are likely to allow an opponent to win with a large score.

In the defensive game it is usually preferable to play for threes of a kind rather than for Runs, as these can be scored and tend to reduce losses. It is frequently preferable to pass up a chance to Chow in order to draw from the wall, but seldom advisable to refuse an opportunity to Pung.

When a player is purely on the defensive and cannot win himself and there appears to be little chance of a Draw Game, it is to his advantage to assist the player with a small score to win rather than to see the player with a large score declare MAH-JONGG. In a case of this sort, where it is evident that a player with a small score wishes to Chow, it is well to sacrifice a Pung in order not to interfere with this player improving his hand.

A player should at all times watch with particular care the discards of the player on his right who follows him, and in playing try not to discard tiles that this player wishes to Chow. For example, if the player on the right has discarded a one, on the next turn give him the one or two of the same suit; and if he has discarded a seven and a nine of a suit, give him the eight of the same suit. Threes and sevens are bad discards, as they frequently allow the next player to Chow to complete a Run of 1, 2, 3 or 7, 8, 9 which would otherwise be difficult to fill.

If, however, a player is on the defensive and the player on his right has a small score, then he should give him such discards as he thinks he may be able to Chow to improve his hand, so as to assist him to complete his hand before another opponent with a large score declares MAH-JONGG.

Care should be taken to watch all plays and discards for any indications that one of the opponents is trying for a one-suit hand. If a player himself has a large number of tiles of the same suit it is not unlikely that one of the opponents is trying for a one-suit hand in another suit.

It is well to discard those tiles one or more of which have already been played and where possible avoid the discard of tiles that have not previously been discarded.

Dragons or Winds, at least one of which has not already been played, should not be discarded late in the game. If, for example, a player is ready to go out with a small score with a pair and a sequence of two open at either end and he draws in a Dragon or Wind, none of which has yet been played, he should discard one of his sequence, hoping to Pung the third to a pair and then to obtain the second to the Dragon or the Wind for MAH-JONGG. This reduces his chances to win, but is the safer play. It sometimes happens that, by doing this, this player is able to take precedence for MAH-JONGG over an opponent with a large score who has a pair of this same Dragon or Wind and is waiting for a third for MAH-JONGG.

When the Live Portion of the wall is nearly exhausted, every player with a low score should be willing to sacrifice his chances to win in order to see a Draw Game declared and so prevent a player with a large hand from scoring. At such a stage in the game and with a large score in an opponent's hand, a player should not play a tile at least one of which has not been played before, but should discard some safe tile even if by so doing he breaks up his hand and his own chances to win.

On the other hand, in the final stages of the game, a player with a large score, seeing that he himself has little chance to complete his hand, might find it advantageous to play a tile which would allow an opponent with a small score to win so that a Draw Game could not be declared and his own large score would count.


General: In general, every player should at all times be thoroughly familiar with his hand, have one or two plays planned in advance, and know just what tiles he requires for improving his hand or for completing it for MAH-JONGG. In this way no opportunities for improving or for completing the hand will be overlooked, and there will be no indecision in Punging or Chowing which tends to disclose the hand.

Expert players seldom need to refer to their own hands, but concentrate almost entirely upon the plays and discards of the other players or upon other clues which tend to disclose the hands of their opponents. Their superiority in the game rests almost entirely upon this defensive play.

Players should draw and discard with despatch and the play should not be allowed to drag. The Chinese play very rapidly and average from an hour and one-quarter to an hour and one-half for four Rounds, or an average of five minutes for a Hand. Experienced foreign players are usually not equal to Chinese experts in speed and will average a somewhat longer time to a Hand. The average score of a winning hand is about 30 to 40 points.

XII
Historical

MAH-JONGG, as explained in the Preface, is based upon and is a development of the Chinese game of 麻雀, made possible as a result of the introduction by the author of the first tiles with English index playing symbols and his publication of the first Book of Rules. Since then the game has become widely popular among Americans and Europeans throughout China and great interest has been aroused in the United States and other countries.

The game of 麻雀 originated in China, probably in Ningpo, although it is also claimed that Fukien Province was the place of origin. Little is known of the early history of the game, but it was probably a more or less gradual development of several ancient Chinese card games.

In the beginning no wall was built, each player merely drawing his tiles from the center where the 136 tiles were placed face down and shuffled. The wall was developed and the dice introduced, as were most of the other elaborate formalities of the game, in order to insure chance and avoid choice in the Draw. 麻雀 in its present form has been played throughout China for the past fifty or one hundred years. Probably no other game has ever been devised that is so thoroughly proof against errors of intent on the part of the unscrupulous. Consequently, there is very little opportunity for such differences of opinion as frequently arise in other games.

The Chinese, to whom are attributed the inventions of chess, dominoes, and playing cards, in 麻雀 have added another great game to their long list of achievements. The game of 麻雀 has stood the test of centuries of play in China and is still by far the most popular game there today. During this time the Chinese have developed the fine points of the game to an extent not reached in any Occidental game.

MAH-JONGG appears likely to secure the same firm hold among Americans and Europeans that 麻雀 has among the Chinese. Once the comparatively simple rudiments of MAH-JONGG have been mastered, the player of the Occident soon feels the Oriental fascination of the game and begins to appreciate that here at last he has been introduced to the ideal combination of skilful play and chance.

INDEX
PAGE
C
Chinese Game, 麻雀 The 63
Chow 16
Chow, Incorrect 32
Club, American iv
Club, Union iv
Completing hand (see Mah-Jongg)
Combinations, Uncompleted 100
Concealed combinations 17
Counters defined 4
D
Dead Game (Draw) 7, 29
Dead Game (Chinese style) 67
Dead Game on Four Sets of Four 79
Dead Hand 31
Dead Hand (Chinese style) 73
Dead portion of wall 29
Dead tiles, All but last discard 17
Dice 5
Dice for East Wind 7
Dice for opening Wall 8
Discard, Calling 14
Discard, Irreclaimable 32
Discard, Miscalling 32
Discarding 100
Doubling for Goofs (Seasons) 89
Doubling for Honors 35
Doubling for Honors (Chinese style) 73
Doubling scores, Optional 62
Dragons defined 2
Draw Game (see Dead) 7, 29
Draw, New, on Nine Mummies 80
Draw of Goofs (Seasons) 88
Draw, Original, Irregular 31
Drawing for seats 7
Drawing for seats (Chinese style) 63
Drawing from Wall 10
Drawing from Wall in turn 32
E
East Wind, New Method 79
East Wind, Passing of 26, 81
East Wind, Score of 26
Exposed combinations 17
F
Five-Handed MAH-JONGG 85
Flowers (see Goofs)
Four Combination of Three of a Kind 59
Four of a Kind 17
Four Sets of Fours 57
Four-Wind Hand, The 53
G
Game, Draw 7, 29, 67
Game, Object of 12
Goofs (Seasons or Flowers) 6
Goofs, Scoring of 89
H
Hand 7
Hand, Arrangement of 97
Hand, Complete 12
Hand, Complete, Examples of 41–52
Hand, Dead 31
Hand, Developing the 101
Hand from Earth, The 36
Hand from Heaven, The 36
Hand, High-Score 105
Hand in plain sight 29
Hand, One-Suit 105
Hand, One-Suit (Chinese style) 73
I
Insurance penalties 74
Insurance penalties (New Method) 79
L
Limit, The 28
Limit hands 36, 53–60
Limit hands (Chinese style) 74, 81
Limit, One-Half and One-Third of 36, 61
Limit with Goofs (Seasons) 90
Lucky Thirteen, The 36
M
MAH-JONGG by filling only place 39
MAH-JONGG by filling only place (Chinese style) 69
MAH-JONGG defined 20
MAH-JONGG for five players 85
MAH-JONGG for three players 83
MAH-JONGG for two players 84
MAH-JONGG historical notes 110
MAH-JONGG incorrectly claimed 33
MAH-JONGG incorrectly claimed (Chinese style) 74
MAH-JONGG on draw of loose tile 22
MAH-JONGG on last tile drawn 29
MAH-JONGG on stolen fourth 22
MAH-JONGG, Precedence when two players 21
MAH-JONGG, Progressive 85
MAH-JONGG table 96
MAH-JONGG, Tile drawn for 33
MAH-JONGG, Variations of 83
MAH-JONGG, “Waiting” for 21
MAH-JONGG with Goofs (Seasons) 87
Maximum hand, The 52
Mingg and Wind Discs 23
Mingg for seats 64
Mingg for play 65
Mummies, Nine 80
N
New Method East, not doubling 78
Nine Gates, The 56
Nine Mummies, new draw 80
O
Object of the game 12
Optional scores 53
Optional, Doubling scores 62
P
Play by rounds 66
Play, Defensive 106
Play, Offensive 100
Play, Order of 14
Play, Plan of 99
Play, Rapid 109
Play, Suggestions for 95
Play, The 13
Pointers and suggestions 95
Precedence, MAH-JONGG over Pung 15
Precedence, Pung over Chow 16
Precedence when two MAH-JONGG 21
Pung 15
Pung, Incorrect 32
Pung, Second chance 80
Pung, Withdrawal from 33
R
Ranks of Insurance Values 77
Round of Winds 67
Round, The 8
Run or Sequence 13
Runs, Bonus for no 40
S
Score, Aids to computing 38
Score, Bonus 35
Score, Bonus for no 39
Score, Examples of 26, 41–52
Score for Goofs (Seasons) 89
Score for Goofs, Examples 90–94
Score, Honor 35
Score, Optional 53
Score, Other Methods 79
Score, Settling 25
Score, Settling (Chinese Style) 82
Score, Special 36
Score Sheet, Standard 34
Score when East wins 26
Seasons, The (see Goofs) 87
Sequence or Run 13
Seven Twins, The 61
Shuffle, The 7
Suits defined 1
T
Table for MAH-JONGG 96
Thirteen Orphans 60
Three Combinations of Three of a Kind 58
Three-Handed MAH-JONGG 83
Three, or Four, of a Kind 13
Tiles defined 1
Tiles, Exposed 32
Tiles, Extra White 3, 96
Tiles, Honor 2
Tiles, Loose 9, 17
Tiles, Replacing Lost 3
Tiles, Selection and purchase of 95
Two-Handed MAH-JONGG 84
W
Wall, Building 7, 97
Wall, End of 9
Wall, Opening 8, 97
Wall with Goofs (Seasons)) 94
Wind Discs and Mingg 5
Wind, East, first player 8
Wind of the Round 67
  1. Publisher's Note.—Each set of tiles is the individual handicraft of Chinese ivory-carvers, and no two sets are exactly alike. So it is not possible to duplicate a lost tile. The extra White Tiles match the others in size exactly, so if you lose a tile, send an extra white tile of your set to the MAH-JONGG Company of China, Chinese Post Office Box No. 1, Shanghai, by registered mail, with letter stating which tile is lost, and the design will be engraved upon the White Tile you send and returned to you with our compliments without charge. If you enclose twenty cents return postage in American stamps, it will be appreciated.
  2. Pronounced to rhyme with the English pronunciation of "sung."
  3. This is referred to by the Chinese as "Plucking the Shadow of the Moon from the Bottom of the Sea."
  4. In this case the hand must have been won by Punging the North Wind for MAH-JONGG; otherwise, the pair of North Winds would be shown as in the concealed portion of the hand.

    If this hand is held by North, add two to the score for a pair of the player's own Wind, making a total score of 34 points (but the score is not doubled for less than three of a player's own Wind).

  5. It is not advisable to follow this Rule in MAH-JONGG where the players are allowed to double their scores for one-suit hands whether the hands are completed or not.
  6. This is not allowed when the Thirteen Orphan Hand is played.
  7. Dirt can best be removed by rubbing vigorously with a dry cloth. Water should be avoided. In the case of stains which cannot be removed with a dry cloth, use a cloth slightly moistened with alcohol.