Voyages in the Northern Pacific/Chapter III
CHAPTER III.
The natives on the Columbia brought us plenty of fine salmon, sturgeon, and fruit, such as strawberries, blackberries, rasberries, etc., for which we gave them, in exchange, knives, buttons, etc. We shortly after observed a remarkably large canoe, coming off with two Indians very finely dressed: they proved to be the king's sons, Casakas and Selechel, who made us signs that there was a three-masted ship above the point. We gave these people bread and treacle, of which they appeared to be very fond. Shortly after we perceived a schooner-boat beating down the river; and about 7 o'clock she anchored in-shore of us. I went on board of her well armed, and found Mr. Black, chief mate of the Isaac Todd, with several of the clerks belonging to the Northwest Company, whom I brought to the Columbia. The schooner was manned with Sandwich Islanders. The next morning we weighed and ran up the river, passed two Indian villages belonging to the Chenook tribe, and came too above Village Point, along-side of the Isaac Todd, in seven fathoms water, good bottom. Captain Smith visited us, and a large bark canoe came across from Fort George, in which was the governor, John George McTavish, Esq., with whom Captain Robson went on shore. Next day Captain Robson returned with a party from the fort to take the mutineers on shore; they were well guarded. After the necessary precautions, we then crossed the river in 3½ fathoms water, and anchored under Fort George in 6 fathoms water, very excellent holding ground. We were visited daily by Comley, king of the Chenook tribe, with his wives and family; and also by the other tribes about the river, bringing sea-otter and beaver skins, (which we were not allowed to buy from them), with plenty of fine salmon and sturgeon. During this time, the Isaac Todd had been taking in furs for China; on the 22nd of July, she was ready lor sea, and dropped down below the Point. Mr. Bethune, one of the Northwest Company, went on board as supercargo for China. Having finished the rigging of the schooner, we commenced taking in bar-iron, rum, powder, ball, etc.. for the Russian settlements to the northward. Mr. James McTavish came on board as super cargo; Mr. McLennan as clerk. Finding there were several American ships on the coast, we embarked two long six-pounders, and a brass four-pounder, with small arms, etc., also three Sandwich Islanders who were left here by the Tonquin, three Canadians, an old man, who had been a long time in the Russian Northwest Company's service, and a half breed boy. Having completed our cargo, we took our wood and water on board.
On the 4th of August, eight bark canoes, belonging to the Northwest Company, sailed with stores for the posts in the interior, with seven men in each canoe, including three of our mutineers; the other being a blacksmith was kept at the river. On the 16th, both ships weighed with a strong breeze from N. W., and turned over the bar, in a heavy sea in 3 fathoms water. In crossing, the sea washed over us, and left the decks covered with sand. We left the Isaac Todd at anchor, and made all sail to the westward; we had a steady breeze from N. W. and W. N. W. On the 26th of August we had a strong gale, sprung our bowsprit and fore-topmast; and, on the 29th, we saw Queen Charlotte's Island. September 2nd, we made the land, called, by the Russians, New Archangel, and by the English, Prince of Wales's Archipelago; in the evening we were close in with the bay of islands, to the northward of Norfolk Sound. On the 5th, we entered the Sound by 10 o'clock, the wind dying away we got the sweeps on; fired several guns; at 11 o'clock we were boarded by a skin-boat, called bodaree, and a smaller one, called bodarkee; the latter was dispatched on shore to let the governor know what ship it was; the former assisted to tow us towards the harbor. When we got to the head of the Sound, we ran inside a group of islands, and came too off the Russian fort, in 3½ fathoms water, good holding ground: found here a fine American ship, called the Packet, Captain Bacon, with a valuable cargo of furs on board, which they had collected on the N. W. coast. We saluted the fort with thirteen guns, which was returned with the same number. Captain Robson, and the supercargo waited on the Governor Baranoff; sent the carpenter to cut some good spars for bowsprit and topmast. September 13th, the supercargo, having agreed with the governor, we commenced landing our cargo; by the 21st, we completed our rigging, wooding, and watering, took on board a quantity of fur, seal skins, and made all clear for sea. While we lay here a large Russian brig arrived, with a valuable cargo of furs, from the Aluthean, or Fox Islands; she had been two years on her voyage, which might have been performed in six months; also arrived here the sloop Constantine, from Kodiac, with furs and stores. At this time there were two large ships hauled on shore, undergoing some repairs; two large sloops ready for sea, and two gun-boats; a ship of 400 tons, which they had built here, was trading on the coast for furs; and a large brig and schooner trading on California. The Americans were very friendly with us, often spending their evenings on board. During our stay, we were well supplied with salmon, hallibut, and wild fowl.
It is the custom of Governor Baranoff to make his visitors drunk, when they dine with him. On these occasions he will commence firing guns, which must be answered by the ships, and I have often been obliged to fire upwards of fifty guns in a day. The governor dined on board once with his suite, and seemed much pleased with our boarding defence. The Russians have a fine fort on a high rock, mounting about sixty guns, and well calculated to defend them from the Indians; a good ship would, however, soon destroy it. They have also blockhouses, and a town of about sixty houses, a church, ship-yard, etc., and about 100 Russians, chiefly convicts from Siberia. They employ a great number of Kodiac and Oonalaska Indians to hunt the sea-otter and man their ships; they also hire American ships to take Indians and canoes to California, where the sea-otters are very plentiful, for the capture of which they allow the ships a certain proportion. They have also several hostages from the tribe about the Sound, and will not allow a canoe to come near the fort, without bringing a handsome present; they have a look-out house on the top of the fort, where a man is continually kept with a spy-glass in his hand, and if a canoe should heave in sight, a gun-boat is immediately dispatched after her. The town is enclosed by a high paling, and look-out houses built at the distance of twenty yards from each other, where there are people on the watch, both day and night. Every Russian has cleared a piece of ground, where they sow potatoes, turnips, carrots, radishes, sallad, etc., by which means, with plenty of fish and whale blubber, they live very comfortably, marrying the Kodiac and Oonalaska women, who are very industrious and make good wives. The Russians are extremely fond of rum, and will part with any thing for it; tobacco is also in great request. This country abounds with wood, chiefly of the pine kind. The hills are continually covered with snow, and it rains a great deal; we had not six fine days while we lay here. The whole of the population of this establishment does not exceed 1,000 souls.
September 27th. We made sail out of the Sound, and stood off towards Columbia river, on our passage to which nothing worthy of remarks occurred. We found the Isaac Todd had left the river on the 26th of September, 1814. The Chenook tribe of Indians were rejoiced to see us, and treated us in a very friendly way; then king Comley came on board as usual. I was therefore dispatched in the schooner-boat to bring the body of Mr. McTavish to the fort; which was done accordingly, and the corpse interred with funeral ceremonies. Captain Robson read the burial service; the coffin was lowered into the grave, which being enclosed all round with paling, a kind of tomb-stone was erected. While we lay in the river, we had much rain and thunder, with heavy gales from S. W. to S. E.
In November we finished a cargo of furs for China, and an assortment of goods for the Spanish Main; and having completed our wood and water, and taken on board plenty of spare spars, we at length cleared the dangerous bar, and stood off to the southward towards Monterey. On the 23rd of November, made the coast of California; saw the harbor of Sir Francis Drake, and the port of St. Francisco; passed the Farlone rocks, about one mile from them; at daylight, saw the north point of Monterey Bay; in the evening, it falling calm, we came too in the bay in 50 fathoms sand; at daylight a breeze sprung up, weighed and turned into the anchorage, we came too in 11 fathoms sandy bottom, about a quarter of a mile from Captain Vancouver's Observatory, and about the same distance from the fort. I went on shore to report the ship, and was kindly received by the Spaniards, who had all their force (about 50 horsemen) drawn up on the beach to receive me. I asked the governor if he would answer a salute; he complied, and I went on board and saluted with 11 guns, which was returned. Captain Robson and the gentlemen then went on shore, and sent off some fresh beef and vegetables for the crew. Mr. McDougal informed the governor that he wished to remain at Monterey, to collect provisions for the Northwest Company's establishment on the Columbia river. The governor could not grant him permission without receiving an order from the viceroy of Mexico; accordingly a courier was dispatched to Mexico, with letters to state our wishes to him. In the meantime, we had fresh beef and vegetables sent off daily. The people had liberty to walk and ride about the town, the Spanish men and women often coming on board. On Friday, the 16th of December, we received a final answer from Mexico to the following purport, viz; that they could not allow any gentleman to remain in the country; we might land the goods we had brought to barter, and the governor was to see to the collecting of provisions for us against our return from Canton; but the cooper was allowed to remain (as a great favour) to superintend the curing of the beef. With these terms we were obliged to comply. We accordingly landed the goods, consisting of bale goods, iron, sugar, tobacco, rum, etc. On the 17th, eight of our men deserted, and though we tried all means we possibly could devise to bring them back, we failed in that object. On the 21st of December we sailed from Monterey towards Bodago, a Russian establishment on New Albion, in the latitude 38° 0′ and longitude 123°, which we reached in due time.
On the 24th we saw a large storehouse on shore; Mr. McDougal and myself went in quest of its owners; we found it locked, and then pulled up a lagoon, where we saw a number of Indians collected round a large fire. We landed, and found ourselves above an Indian village, for here they live under ground, and we could hear their voices beneath us. Several old women and children made their appearance; we gave them some beads and by signs inquired where the Russians were; they pointed to the men round the fire, to whom we accordingly went up, and found them killing rabbits. Their mode of hunting them is to fire the grass for a considerable distance, and kill the rabbits as they are endeavoring to escape from the flame. The natives, on this part of the coast, appear to be a very harmless race. We inquired for the Russians, and they pointed to the northward. We then left them, and, on passing the village, some of our party had the curiosity to venture into their subterraneous abodes, but were obliged to make a hasty retreat, pursued by swarms of fleas, and an intolerable stench from a mass of filth.
We re-embarked, and made all sail to the northward, and at 4 p.m. were visited by some Russians in bodarkees; they brought with them a present of fresh pork and vegetables, and one of them piloted us to the settlement, where we anchored with the stream in 30 fathoms water, bottom of soft mud, about one mile from the shore. Mr. McDougal then went on shore to ask permission to remain until the schooner arrived from Canton, which was refused by Governor Kutscoff, without first getting permission from Governor Baranoff. He returned on board, and at daylight we weighed, and made sail for the Sandwich Islands.
January 7th, in latitude 27 north, we fell in with the N. E. trade-wind; on the 16th January, 1815, made the island of Owhyee (Hawaii), ran close in shore; some natives visited us, and informed us that Tameamah (Kamehameha) was at the village of Tyroa (Kailua). We made all sail for that place, and the next day ran between Owhyee (Hawaii) and Mowee (Maui), and stood close in shore. The natives came off in great numbers, bringing with them hogs, vegetables, rope, and cloth of the country ; we allowed a few to enter the vessel, and took a chief woman on board, who acted as pilot. About midnight we reached Tyroa (Kailua), where we anchored in 30 fathoms water, very foul bottom; saluted the king. Mr. McDougal went on shore, and returned with the king next morning: Tameamah (Kamehameha) was dressed in a coloured shirt, velveteen breeches, red waistcoat, large military shoes, and worsted stockings, a black silk handkerchief round his neck, no coat : he is a tall, stout, athletic man, nose rather flat, thick lips, the upper one turned up; an open countenance, with three of his lower front teeth gone. We weighed anchor, and towed close in shore in 14 fathoms sandy bottom; the canoes collected from all parts, and, in a short time, there were no fewer than eighty of them, with from three to ten men in each, and some hundreds of men, women, and children swimming about the ship, regardless of the sharks; the decks were soon covered with them. Captain Robson, being rather alarmed at having so many on board, told the king to send them on shore. He took a handspike in his hand, and said a few words, and in a moment the men flew out of the ship in all directions. The king ordered us to hoist a white flag, which here signifies taboo, or prohibition, and then ordered two of his hikanees (aikanes), or confidential men, to remain on board, to keep the natives from stealing. The king, queens, and principal chiefs remained with us all day, and had their dinner sent on board to them, not being allowed to eat ship provision. It is a strange custom that any thing out of which the king eat or drank he had sent on shore. In the afternoon Captain Robson landed in company with his majesty, who gave Mr. McDougal permission to stop in his dominions as long as he pleased, and assured him that he should want for nothing. We accordingly forwarded their baggage, and the two gentlemen and a boy landed.
The king sent off a supply of hogs and tarrow, some very good island rope; and the same night, January 18th, we weighed and made sail for Canton. We made the islands of Bottel, Tobago, and Xima; and on the 5th of March passed Formosa, about two leagues from the valrette rocks; had wind, with much thunder, lightning, and rain. Next day, it being foggy, we sounded occasionally in from 35 to 20 fathoms of water, bottom of dark sand; when it cleared up, we were surrounded by Chinese fishing-boats, the sea being completely covered with them. On the 8th of March we passed Pedra Blanco, about one mile off, made the great Lema, and passed Antin. On the 9th we ran into the Macao roads, and came too in 3½ fathoms water, bottom of soft mud. Captain Robson went on shore in a Chinese boat; in the evening he returned, and the next day took the young woman on shore, the Chinese not allowing her to proceed to Canton in the schooner. On the 17th of March, we got a pilot on board, weighed, and stood up the river; we were three days in our passage up to Wampoa.