Voyages in the Northern Pacific/Chapter IX
CHAPTER IX.
On the 18th of August, 1817, we completed our work here, (Bodago), weighed the anchor, and stood away for the Farelone rocks of islands, in the latitude of 37° 40′ North, and longitude 122° 20′ West. Next day we ran close to the rocks, and I went on shore to look for fur-seals. On landing we found plenty of hair seals, but very few fur; we knocked down a few of them, and brought them on board, with a number of young gulls, which were fat and good. We then made sail towards a larger group of islands, where also we landed, and were surprised to find about thirty Russians and Kodiacks with their wives. They had a flag-staff erected, but showed no colours. Their houses were built of stone, and they seemed very comfortable: they remain here for the purpose of collecting fur-seals and drying the flesh of the sea-lion, which is quite as good as Spanish jerked beef. In fine weather, a skin-boat comes from Bodago with a supply of fresh water, there not being a drop on the islands, and, in return, takes what meat and skins have been collected. The people have no means of leaving the island, having no boat, nor materials to build one. Finding we could do nothing here, we took on board a good stock of seals and gull's eggs, also plenty of young gulls, We then stood for the harbour of Sir Francis Drake, and next day anchored in the bay in 5½ fathoms, hoisted the boats out, and I went with a party on shore to look for natives. I returned on board in the evening, having seen but few, and those very poor. This part of the country is delightfully pleasant, with many small rivers running through the valleys. While on shore, we killed a number of large snakes and adders, and saw many deer and foxes, but they were very shy. We also observed the tracks of bears. This bay is very well sheltered from all winds. August 10th, 1817, we ran along shore to the northward; passed many Indian villages, but no natives came off, I believe for want of canoes, there being no wood on this part of the coast. On the 20th of August, we again stood into the bay of Trinidad, to endeavour to receive our anchor, and next morning I went with the whale boat and long-boat with purchases to raise it, leaving the captain with only six men on board to take care of the ship. We started before daylight, that the natives should not take notice of us; it came on so thick a fog, that we not only did not succeed in finding the buoy, but had much difficulty in regaining the vessel. About six o'clock in the evening, however, we got on board, and learnt that the Indians had been very troublesome during our absence. In consequence of their seeing but few men, they had made several attempts to board the ship, but were as often beat out of the nets. It was of no use to point the muskets at them, for they were ignorant of their effect, until some of the men shot several gulls that were flying about the ship. Upon this, they began to be less daring, and, as we fired a few muskets on approaching, they made for the shore, as quick as possible. We now gave up all hopes of recovering our anchor, and at daylight weighed, and made sail, thinking it dangerous to remain any longer among this savage tribe. We stood along shore to the N. E., saw many small villages, but the sea was so rough that none of the natives came off. Next day we stood close under Point St. George to find anchorage, seeing a very large village and many natives on the shore. We sounded round the bay in from 12 to 20 fathoms, over a foul bottom, one and two miles from shore. Many canoes came off, and the natives appeared quite friendly. We bought several good sea otter skins at an axe for each skin; many bows, arrows, daggers, etc., for small beads. The canoes here are similar to those at Port Trinidad. As the anchorage was not good, and we had bought all the furs brought off, we stood out to sea; the natives kept on board as long as they could. We then beat up along shore to the northward, trading with the Indians, to Point Gregory, in latitude 43°. Here we continued our traffic, and on the 2nd of September hauled off to the westward, to look for a seal island, said to have been seen by an American vessel. On the 10th of October, after a fruitless search, we arrived off the Columbia river, sent the furs on shore, and set the carpenter to work to make a bowsprit; we took on board wood and water; also six long 12-pounders, with powder and shot, for the Sandwich Islands. On the 20th of October, I was sent with a party of thirty-three from the fort and ship to the Cladsaps' winter quarters, about 30 miles distant, to bring back John Carpenter, the blacksmith, (one of the men we landed here on our first arrival); he had behaved very well for some time, but at length got quite unruly, and deserted to the Cladsap tribe. Several messengers were sent at different times, but to no purpose, as he was protected by the tribe, none of whom had visited the fort since his desertion. Mr. Keith, the governor, fearing that the Indians would make an attempt to storm the fort at some time, headed by this desperate man, determined to have him banished from the river; and I was accordingly dispatched with orders to bring him dead or alive, together with the chief of the village at which I found him. We left the ship at about 6 o'clock in the evening in the cutter and whale boat, and pulled up Young's River to the south point, where we landed, and secured the boats in a small creek, and left two men to take care of them. We travelled through woods, over plains, crossed small rivers and creeks, passed many Indian habitations, and just at day-light arrived at the winter village of the Cladsaps, before the Indians were awake. We sent one of our guides into the chief's huts to see if Carpenter was there, who returned in a few minutes, and informed us that he was, and asleep; I then placed the men round the house to prevent his escape, and taking the second mate with me, we entered the hut, found him in bed, and, after a violent struggle, secured him, by lashing his hands behind him. By this time the Indians were collecting and arming. They poured in from all parts, and seemed disposed to prevent our taking away our prisoner; and Carpenter's female companion was very active in instigating them to liberate her husband. I drew my party up in a double line, and then stepped out and told the Indians, that I did not come to trouble them, but merely to take the white man to the fort. They answered, that he came to them for protection, and they would protect him. I informed them, if they attempted to stop him, what they might expect; and ordered the party to march, which it did without being molested. I did not like to provoke a quarrel with them by taking their chief, there being about 156 men well armed with bows and muskets, who might have cut us all off, before we could reach our boats. We therefore took Carpenter, and with him made the best of our way, passing over a most beautiful country, an extensive plain, with many small rivulets. This spot appeared capable of the highest cultivation, and was covered with berrie of different sorts. We saw many horses and deer, and also the mountain sheep. There were many small villages scattered about the plain, the natives of which treated us very kindly. In the evening we arrived at the boats, and about 8 o'clock at the fort, all very much fatigued with our journey, the result of which gave great satisfaction to the governor. Carpenter was well secured over the gate of the fort; his hand-cuffs were made with a nut to screw tight on, and then clinched; his legs were fastened in the same manner, and a large hoop made to go tight round his body, with a chain from each side of it, which was stretched tight out, and locked to the post of the gate. Here he was kept until the Columbia was ready for sea. November the 14th we left the river for the Sandwich Islands, to sell the vessel; and if we did not succeed at the Islands, we had orders to proceed to Norfolk Sound, and dispose of her to the Russians. The Northwest Company's Establishment lies about seven miles from Point Adam, on the south side of the river, above a small bay, where ships are in great safety out of the strength of the tide. There is a very good wharf with a crane for landing or shipping goods. The settlement is a square of about 200 yards, surrounded by pickets about 15 feet high, and protected by two bastions, one on the S. W. and the other on the N. E. corner. Each of these bastions mounts eight guns, four and six pounders; and there are loop-holes for musketry. The grand entrance is through a large double gate on the north side, above which there is a platform for the sentry to walk; on this are several swivels mounted. As you enter the fort, or square, there is a two-story house, with two long 18-pounders in front of it on the south side; on the east is a range of low buildings, where the clerks have their apartments; and in the same row stands the grand hall, where the gentlemen assemble to dinner, etc. The houses for the men are on the same side, and behind the two-story or governor's house; in the S. W. corner, is the magazine well secured; along the west side stands a range of stores, tailor's shop, and Indian trading shop; in the S. E. corner the blacksmith's and cooper's shops, and on the N. E. corner a granary for the corn. In the N. W. corner stands a very high flag-staff, erected by the crew of the Columbia. The whole of the settlers here do not exceed 150 men, most of whom keep Indian women, who live inside of the fort with them. Nearly all the settlers are Canadians. The clerks and partners are Scotch. They are constantly employed in cutting down the wood, and improving the fort: the men are not allowed the ground on their own account, the company being fearful they would in time become independent, and leave them. The Company's canoes arrive here from the interior, in the spring and fall; they bring the furs that are collected at the different posts on the west side of the stoney mountains, and take back stores for the posts. The canoes are manned with Euroque Indians and Canadians, under the direction of a partner and several young clerks. When they arrive in the fall, the boatmen encamp outside the fort; they are each served out with a half pint of rum, and their year's clothing, and orders are issued, that those men who do not get drunk, must go to the wood and cut timber. The liquor shop is then opened, and kept by one of the clerks; a scene of drunkenness and all manner of vice follows. A frolick of this kind will cost them a year's pay and upwards; they generally agree for two years, at the end of which time they find themselves in debt, are therefore obliged to agree for two years longer, and in this manner are kept in the service till they are gray-headed. The Company have a train of posts from the Columbia River to the rocky or stoney mountains, and from thence to Montreal; all the furs that are collected at the west side of these mountains are brought to the Columbia, and sent from thence to China; and all that are collected on the east side are sent to Montreal, and from thence to England. At this settlement they have cleared about 200 acres of ground, and planted about 20 acres with potatoes for the use of the gentlemen, their object being to collect furs, and not to cultivate or improve the land. They have about twelve head of cattle with some pigs and goats, imported here from California; their stock does not increase, for want of proper care, the wolves often carrying off goats and pigs.