Voyages in the Northern Pacific/Chapter V
CHAPTER V.
Having returned to Columbia from Monterey, we speedily discharged our cargo, and took on board afresh one for Norfolk Sound. The 16th of September, having completed our wood and water, we sailed for that place. On the 18th, the people refused to do their duty, alleging that they had not provisions enough, though their allowance was five pounds of bread, three pounds of pork, six pounds of beef, and two and one-fourth pounds of flour per week, with peas and beans; tea morning and evening, and a quarter of a pint of rum per day. We called them aft to know their grievance, and after giving them a severe reprimand, ordered them to their duty, to which they went quietly. We were of opinion that the Isaac Todd's people headed this business, of which, however, we heard no more, as they found the officers were determined not to be trifled with. On anchoring in Norfolk Sound we found four American vessels lying there, from whom we learned that the war with America was at an end. The names of the Americans were the Okean,[1] the Isabella, and Albatross, formerly employed under the Russian flag, in the sea-otter fishery on California; the schooner Liddy, with a cargo from Canton for the Russians, and the brig Pedlar, commanded by Mr. Hunt, the individual who crossed the Stony Mountain. The Pedlar was seized by the Russians for selling powder to the natives in the Sound, but was given up before we sailed, (after several attempts to get out,) on the 17th of October, 1815. The ship Isabella sailed at the same time, while Dr. Shefham (Scheffer), a Russian, and some settlers for the Sandwich Islands; it being their intention to obtain footing there, as they had done on the coast of New Albion, the N. W. coast of America, and the Aluthean Islands. The Sandwich Islands indeed, would answer the purpose of west India Islands for them, as they are so conveniently near the N. W. coast of America, of the whole of which I am of opinion the Russians will possess themselves in time.
On the 25th of October, we again entered the River Columbia, and sent the furs on shore to be re-packed. In November, nine bark canoes arrived with furs from the interior; on the 10th we received our cargo on board with stores, etc., and on the 13th, made sail for the Sandwich Islands. Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage, and on the 10th of December we made the Island of Owyhee (Hawaii); the ship was surrounded with canoes filled with articles of trade. On the 12th we came too off the village of Tyroa (Kailua), half a mile from the Morai (temple) on the point. Found the American ship Milwood here, purchasing sandal wood at the rate of 7 dollars for 133 pounds. The King, Tameameah (Kamehameha), came on board with the gentlemen we left last year, who had been well treated by the natives and wanted for nothing. On their first landing, the King had houses built for them, and gave them servants to attend on them. His Majesty and the Queens were rejoiced to see their old friend, Captain Jenninrs, and after taking a good proportion of wine they went on shore together. The Prince Reoreo (Liholiho) and his step-sister Maroo (Kamamalu) also visited the vessel; the Prince was accompanied by one of the chief priests; he was highly tatooed, and would not go under deck for fear the sailors or natives would walk above him. Being the greatest man on the island, no person was allowed to put even a hand above his head on pain of death. His sister was not so ceremonious, but came below and took her wine with me, and pressed me very much to remain on Owyhee.
The Russian had arrived and were on shore. Dr. Shefham (Sheffer) assured the King that he merely came to collect plants and see what the Island produced. During our whole stay, our decks were continually crowded with natives. We shipped a large quantity of island rope, which makes excellent running rigging; and the people were employed killing and salting pork; the King Queens, Prince and Princess coming on board daily and remaining until evening. Wanting to overhaul the rigging and caulk the ship, we determined to run down to Woahoo (Oahu), where there is a fine close harbour. We acquainted the King with our intentions, and he sent one of his hikanees (aikanes) or confidential men on board, named Kenopoo, to accompany us and see that we should get what we wanted. On the 16th of December we took leave of Tameameah, (Kamehameha) and with the ship full of men, women, and children, made sail for Woahoo, passed the Islands of Tahoorooa (Kahoolawe), Raini (Lanai), and Morokoi (Molokai), and on the 18th arrived at Woahoo (Oahu). We were boarded outside by John Young, a white man, who had lived on these islands upwards of 33 years: he piloted us into the harbour and we moored close to the shore, where thousands of the natives were collected, and soon crowded us. Mr. Manning (Manini), a Spaniard, and Mr. Harbottle an Englishman, who had been on the island for many years, came on board, as did also a number of respectable white men. This being Sunday we gave the people liberty to go on shore; one of the men, who left the Forester at Owyhee (Hawaii), came back with them, and remained. Next morning at sunrise we tired two muskets and sent the women out of the ship, and at sundown did the same as a signal for them to come on board; this practice we continued, and by that means kept the ship clear of natives. By the 29th of December we had completed repairing the rigging, caulked and painted the ship inside and out, and salted a quantity of pork; we then left these friendly people, and made sail towards Mooi[2] another of the group. 1st of January, 1816, we were close in with the village of Whymea fWaimea); Mr. Bethune, Mr. McDougal, and Mr. McLennan went on shore; Peter Anderson, who had been boatswain of the Tonquin and left by her at Owyhee (Hawaii), came to us, and was shipped as boatswain. We stood off and on the village all night, and the next day ran in between the reefs: the natives came off in great numbers, bringing hogs, goats, and vegetables to barter. The King, Tamoree (Kaumualii), did not make his appearance, but sent his head man to measure the schooner. On the 4th our gentlemen came on board, and we sailed for China, where we arrived on the 11th of February. The grand mandarin came on board to measure the vessel, and made the usual present of two lean bullocks, ten jars of sour stuff misnamed wine, and ten bags of something they call flour; they were not worth the trouble of taking on board, and I sold them to the compradore for two dozen geese.
April 30th.—Weighed and made sail from Macao towards the N. W. coast of America. On the 23rd of May we passed Ormsby's Peak, a very high rock that makes like a ship in full sail, and is quite covered with birds, latitude 30° 48′ north, longitude 217° east. On the 31st, we lost a young man, named James Dodd, overboard from the main-boom; the ship was then running ten knots per hour, with a strong fair wind; we immediately rounded-too and lowered a boat, but the sea ran so very high that she could not approach the man, who sunk, and it was with great difficulty we recovered the boat by making several tacks to windward. Our passage was the quickest ever made. July 11th, we saw Hallibut Island; also a remarkable volcano on the main land, from which a column of smoke ascended. Stood along towards the Straits of Oonalaska, and next day were close up with the island of that name. Tacked one mile from the west side of the Straits, wind blowing in hard squalls from N. W.; all the islands in sight were covered with snow; three bodarkees, with Oonalaska Indians, came on board, abreast of Cook's harbour. They had been out fishing, and returning home; they gave us some fish and we gave them rum in exchange. July 17th, off the island of St. George, we were boarded by two bodarkees, with one Russian and four Indians; next day we got off the landing place where there was a considerable store, a large bodarkee came on board and took the cargo onshore, and by the evening we had taken on board 313 bales of fur seal-skins. The Russians brought us off plenty of gull's eggs, salted ducks, and a number of young sea lions, which we found very good eating.
The islands of St. Paul and St. George are within sight of each other; the Russians keep 12 men on each, for the purpose of curing the fur-seal-skin, with which these islands abound. They take 40,000 annually, and still the seal does not decrease. The mode they pursue is as follows: The seal comes on shore to pup in July, and stays the whole summer, leaving a sufficient number of clapmatches and wigs; the hunters drive up the last year's pups like a flock of sheep, out of sight and hearing of the old ones, and knock them on the head; taking care not to let one of those driven up escape. Each summer's pups go to sea and comes on shore next summer, and are fit to kill. They leave the islands in November very lean; they take in several smooth stones about the size of an egg, I suppose for ballast. I could never find out where the seal winters; but certain it is, they must have a place where they remain during that season and feed, which has not yet been discovered. The people on these islands live under ground; they collect drift-wood enough in summer to last the winter; they live chiefly on sea-lion meat jerked, pickled ducks, gull's eggs preserved in oil, etc.
On the 24th we saw the ship-rock, and could hear the roaring of the sea-lion and elephant, long before we could see the rock, it being very foggy. On its clearing away, we saw the island of Oonalaska, and stood towards Cook's Straits. The next day it came on to blow hard from S. E.; made sail for the harbour, black whale blowing in all directions; we found a snug town, church, etc., the natives were all employed drying salmon for the winter. Captain Jennings and the gentlemen accompanied the governor on shore; they took some rum with them to treat the Russians, who have a numerous herd of cattle and make excellent butter and cheese. They keep two skin-boats constantly employed in summer, collecting the drift-wood about the island, which is the only fuel they have. We lay here until the 29th, when we made sail towards Cook's Straits. While we lay about these islands we had not more than three clear days.
The Island of Oonalaska is in the latitude of 53° 55′ north, and longitude 166° 22′ west. The island is the chief depot for all the furs collected on the Aluthean Islands; and appears quite barren, without the least sign of wood. There is an excellent harbour, off the N. W. side, capable of holding several hundred vessels, and completely land-locked. The town consists of about twenty houses, a church, and some large sheds for the purpose of drying salmon and other fish. There are about twelve Russians here; the remainder of the inhabitants of the town are Kodiacs, and natives of the island, all converts to the Greek church. The natives of these, as well as of all the Aluthean Islands, are low in stature, broad, flat faces, with black eyes, and coarse black hair. Their dress consists of a loose frock, made of the skins of ducks and other birds, sewed neatly together; this part of the dress is the same in both sexes. When the men go in their canoes to hunt or fish, they wear a dress of the entrails of the seal; it is made like a large loose shirt, with a hood, and is water-proof. They also wear trowsers and boots, made from the throat of the sea-lion or elephant, which are water-proof also. They are extremely fond of ornaments, particularly of beads, with which they ornament their garments and person; they wear them round the neck, and pendant from the nose and ears, through which many holes are made. The men have a helmet or cap, ornamented with the beard of the sea-lion and with seed-beads. All the natives use paint. There are several villages about the harbour, but the island seems very thinly peopled, owing, I suppose, to the number that are employed by the Russians on their establishments on the N. W. coast of America Their canoes or bodarkees, are made from the skins of the hair-seal, stretched over a light wooden frame, leaving one, two, or three holes on the top for the sitters; the frame is sometimes of whalebone, and the vessels are from 10 to 16 feet long, and about 3 feet wide in the middle, gradually tapering towards the ends. They are pulled with great swiftness by a double paddle, about 12 feet long, with a blade at each end, and held by the middle; they are generally made of ask. The canoes perform voyages along the coast for several hundred miles, for the purpose of hunting the sea-otter and seal; they also kill black whales, which are about these islands in great plenty. If in their hunting excursions they are overtaken by a gale of wind, they lash all their canoes together in form of a raft, and in this manner float lightly on the top of the sea without the least danger. The large boats, or bodarkees, are made from the skins of the sea-lion or elephant, stretched over a stout wooden frame, open at the top, and are capable of carrying 50 or 60 men. In these boats they go to all the Aluthean Islands, to collect the furs; and sometimes to the main land, for timber. In catching the sea-otter and seal, these people are very dexterous; they conceal themselves behind the rocks, and throw out a seal-skin blown, with a line affixed, and draw it gently towards the shore: the seal or sea-otter following till within reach of their spears, they are easily captured. In hunting, they wear masks and skins to represent the beasts they are in pursuit of; they always carry a rifle with them, in the use of which they are very dexterous. All of them are extremely fond of rum, and they often part with their garments and hunting utensils, to purchase a small quantity. Their principal food consists of the black whale; also salmon, cod, hallibut, herrings, etc. When these fish are in season, they cure sufficient to last them through the winter, by drying and smoking them, without salt; they also eat their victuals without it; and the reason they give is, that it hurts the sight. Whether this be the case or not, all the natives are very sharp-sighted. On this island they have about 40 head of fine cattle, first imported from the Spanish Main; they have also some large hogs, which are fed on fish, and consequently not very delicate.