Field Notes of Junius Henderson/Notebook 4
Front pages
[edit]Junius Henderson Field Notebook No. 4 Sept. 7, 1909 - Aug. 30, 1910 No. 4. Note (figure of man) book. Sept 7, 1909 - Aug. 30, 1910
Colorado Trips
[edit]- Around Colorado
Field Notebook No. 4. Mostly California and New Mexico. Pueblo, Colo. Sept. 7, 1909
Still partly cloudy as we entered Royal Gorge at, and soon began to rain again. River high and muddy. Rock slides and old track washed in recently. Gorge in gneiss and granite. Breakfast at Pueblo, Colo., 8 a.m. Clearing up as we left Colorado Springs at about 10 a.m. Clear when we reached Denver at 1:15 p.m. Dined at Oxford Hotel. Bought some instruments of J. Durbin Surgical and Dental Supply Co. 1508 Curtis Street. Called on Fred E. Anderson, 1735 Gilpin Street, to see seal skin and skull referred to the museum by his father, Dr. Anderson. Then on Jonas Bros., 1814 Stout St. to arrange for mounting it at a price of $12.00. Left for Boulder at 4 p.m. by C. & S. Heavy rains indicated all the way. Prof. Cockerell and wife on train, returning from Europe. Also Austin Russell returning from White River. Reached Boulder at 5:15
Boulder, Colo. Dec. 21,1909 Started up Boulder Canyon at 11:15 a.m., with camp pack and 16 Gauge double barreled shotgun. 15˚ above zero. Heavy snow on ground. Sun shining. Just inside the canyon saw flock of 25 pinon jays. A few mt. chickadee and juncos, long crested jays and magpies. At Coburn Mill saw several birds which I believe were red breasted nuthatches. Reached the Marchioness tunnell (sic) at 3:30. Saw a pine squirrel. Set 11 traps for mice, shrews etc. John Blanchard reached the cabin at 4:30. After getting a short distance up the canyon even the Peromyscus tracks become scarce. At the Marchioness there were very few tracks. Set 11 traps about there.
Marchioness Tunnel Dec, 22, 1909
West wind in morning; 6˚ above zero at 6:30 a.m., 26 above at 7:45. Nothing in the traps. I do not understand the absences of small mammals, especially Peromyscus. Is it possible they are hibernating. Some tracks, but several days old, as the last sift of snow has obscured them. After breakfast found two house mice in the traps at the stable. We killed a mountain rat in the tunnel. Then climbed the mountain on north side of creek. Coyote and rabbit tracks . Saw two rabbits, but did not get a shot at them. Took two Townsend solitaires and saw half a dozen more. Saw at least one red breasted nuthatch plainly with glass, but rough ground prevented a shot. Plenty of mt. chickadees and Junco spp. Returned to house at noon for dinner. Skinned the rat after dinner. Then we went up the mountain north of creek. Saw two western robins ((?)) and heard several more. Took another solitaire. I returned to skin the mice and birds, while John went to the Marchioness Tunnel and brought back two bats and an arctic towhee. I skinned and prepared the two bats and two mice. We had the phonograph running all evening. Has been windy today. Bright tonight, 20˚ above zero at 9:30 p.m.
Marchioness Tunnel Dec. 23, 1909
16˚ above at 6:00 a.m., bright morning. While I was skinning birds, Blanchard went out and shot a robin and a pygmy nuthatch. I caught another house mouse and a gray headed junco in traps in the chicken coop. I put up two solitaires, robinand one arctic towhee. Returned to Boulder at 4 p.m. Boulder, Colo. Saturday, Jany 9, 1910
At 1:30 p.m. went up Gregory canyon with Betts and Marvin to try new Marble "Game Getter" gun, .20 rifle and .44 shot. Cold west wind. Gun proved satisfactory. Saw following birds. Townsend solitaire. (took one) Pink-sided junco (took one) several Long-crested jay several Magpie several Mountain chickadee common Long tailed chickadee common Batchelder woodpecker one Heard canyon wren constantly on hillside. Returned at 4:50. Round Butte Trip
Boulder, Colo. Mch. 17, 1910
Beautiful, balmy morning, west wind. P. G. Worcester, H. A. Aurand, R. M. Butters and I left Boulder by C. & S. R.R. at 9:50, 27 minutes behind time. Round trip fare to Ft. Collins $2.50 each. Reached Ft. Collins at 11:25. Got dinner at Orpheum Cafe. Left for Wellington at 1:15, reached there at 1:40, round trip fare 60 cents. Got rooms at Hotel Wellington, then started north along the beet sugar spur to a cut ranging to 20 feet in depth, through probable Pleistocene deposits, laid over Pierre shales as indicated by fossils found in the bottom of the cut at one place - Baculites etc. The Pleistocene at base of walls of cut is sandy, scarcely consolidated, in color resembling the Fox Hills sandstone, enclosing some pebbles, with some intercalations of pebbly strata in higher horizons, capped by the usual coarse, unconsolidated conglomerate, including quartz, jasper, fossiliferous Pierre concretions, Carboniferous crinoidal limestone boulders etc. In one place were numerous fragments of horse bones in the sandy lower zone, of which we collected two teeth, which I take to be Pleistocene. Then started SE for a big ditch cut, and found Pierre shale on the way. The latter cut is about half a mile E by N from the Wellington Station. At the west end Pierre shales are exposed, with numerous concretions as at Boulder brickyards. Fossils were few, but we collected Baculites ovatus, Nuculidae etc. Returned to hotel at 6 p.m. Retired at 9:15. Saw one bluebird.
Wellington, Colo., March 18, 1910
Up at 6 a.m., a clear morning and cool. Started with team from Hall's stable at 7:10 a.m. 3 mi. N and 1 1/2 mi. W of Wellington found ditch cutting through Hygiene sandstone, containing Inoceramus spp., Baculites, Anisomyon, Avicula, Ostrea etc. Reached Round Butte at 11:15. In creek bluff 1/2 mi. E of the butte Pierre dips SE 58˚, and is badly crushed. Hygiene sandstone passes through the butte. We ate lunch, fed the horses, then walked to the bluff NE of the butte. I photographed the bluff, with red Pleistocene conglomerate resting on lower Fox Hills sandstone, this in turn underlaid by black Pierre shales. One sandstone (Dakota or Arikaree) boulder in the conglomerate is 2 ft in diameter, We collected Fox Hills fossils at the bluffs, then collected Hygiene fossils S of Round Butte where the strike is S 32˚ W and dip is 54˚. The concretions are similar to those at Fossil Ridge. Some of the Fox Hills fossils were found in concretions like those E of White Rock fault. The Pleistocene conglomerate contains much agatized wood or wood jasper etc. I found a sandstone boulder 3 ft. in diameter in it. We started back at 6:10, reached Wellington at about 8:40, very tired. Team $4.00. Wellington, Colo., Mch. 19. 1910
Up at 6:15, got breakfast. Beautiful, perfectly clear morning. Hotel bill $2.70 each. Left of 7:30 train, reaching Ft. Collins at 8 a.m., reached Trilby schoolhouse at 9:10 and began collecting fossils on Fossil Ridge. Very hot by 10:30. Returned to Ft. Collins at 3:30. Team $4.00.
Boulder Colorado, Apl. 29, 1910.
Cooler and cloudy today, SE wind. Has been hot for several days. I left for Denver on 4 p.m. train, one way to Salida. Round trip Boulder - Denver $1.60. Reached Denver at 5:10, dined at Oxford Hotel 85¢. One way ticket Denver to Salida $6.00. Sleeper $2.00. Got on sleeper at 8:30. Train started at 9 p.m. Had been sprinkling since 7 p.m.
Salida, Colo., Apl. 30, 1910
Arrived at 5:10, but as car was left here did not arise until 6 a.m. Got breakfast at the depot lunch room, then went to Principal Edgar Kesner's house. He went with me to Kenyon's house and Kenyon and I walked up Tenderfoot Hill. Rock hereabouts all basaltic. At noon, the Kenyons, Mr. Cady and I dined with the Kesners. At 1:30 I talked about economic ornithology to the County teachers' institute, for over an hour, then went home with Kesner. After supper I went to Kenyons. Mr. And Mrs. Kenyon and I went to a morning pictures show, after which I got on the 11:35 train and went to bed. I[t] was partly cloudy through the day, wind variable, a little rain about noon.
Denver, Colo., May 1, 1910
Arrived here at 7:50 and took narrow gauge train for Boulder at 8 a.m., without breakfast. It was foggy the latter part of the night and is cold this morning.
Denver, Colo. May 16, 1910.
Cleared off during day and snow melted. Attended Dr. Edgar L. Hewitt's lecture on Central American ancient art, then took 9:30 p.m. car for Denver on way to Meeker. Went to Oxford Hotel. Quite cold, may freeze. Fare 70¢.
Denver, May 17, 1910.
Got good nights sleep. Arose at 7:30. Quite cool. Breakfast 55¢, room $1.50. At 12:45 I lunched on car just beyond Colorado Springs- soup and strawberries and tip 55¢. Soon came to a series of tunnels then more open to Lake George. Another series of tunnels in Granite Canyon. Then came South Park, a broad comparatively level, valley through granite mountains, bounding slopes rather gentle, pine-clad. Many marginal ramifications to valley, South Platte River meanders through it, shallow, well grassed banks quite uniformly about a foot or two above the water. Valley suggests a filling stage rather than cutting. It seldom discloses a steep embankment of even 3 or 4 feet and no terraces. There are some beautiful meanders. Lots of sandstone, conglomerate and shale just before reaching Bath. Then passed into Arkansas Valley. Storm gathering on mountains. South Park free from snow. Arkansas shows decided cutting and terracing, flowing in deeper channel than the Platte. River had filled its valley with boulders to depth of 50 feet or more, big boulder, and has now cut to at least that depth. I suspect glacial deposits from the Collegiate Range.
Left Denver at 9:16 a.m. for Rifle over Colorado Midland R.R. Fare one way $11.30 no round trip rate.
Rifle, Colo., May 18, 1910
Reached here at 12:45, got to bed at 1 a.m. Arose at 6:30, having slept well. Bright and much warmer this morning. Slept and breakfasted at the Winchester Hotel, $1.50. ((This hotel, of appropriate name for the town, was a Colorado landmark that was torn down in the 1960's. I Slept there once in December, 1961, and it was both clean and cheap, the room only being $2.50 then.)) The Little Book Cliffs look very near, and very light gray in color. River in a secondary bottom, the terraces being 75 to 100 ft, high on the south side. Stage started for Meeker at 8:15 a.m. Round trip fare $8.00. Did not get out of town until 8:45, with 7 adults, 4 children and a heavy load of baggage. Yellowthroats and orioles common at Rifle. First change of horses at 11:05, 12 miles from Rifle. About a mile further we found the slide which occurred a month or two ago. The slide continued for 8 days, a hundred yards or more wide, the head being 1/4 or 1/2 mile up slope, the tongue extending about 100 ft. beyond old road, covering it to a depth of 25 feet or more. Cedars ((prob. J. virginiana)) all along the top of the slide are toppled in all directions. Reached Piceance Creek Stage Station at 1 p.m. and stopped for dinner, 50¢. At 3:30 changed horses again, 28 miles out from Rifle. Reached Meeker, 44 miles from Rifle, at 6:25 p.m. Roads rough. Drainage channels all along are deep and narrow at bottom of valleys, showing present down cutting. At Hotel J. L. Riland, Dr. Stetson and Col. Montgomery met me and the first two dined with me. Spent the evening with Riland. He told me of big Indian mortars, etc., on Blue Mt., near Rangeley [sic], discovered by John A. Story, of Meeker. Also of a jade ? idol in possession of J. B. Nunnerick ((?)), of Buford, plowed up by him in Oregon. Also stone walls on a cliff ledge discovered west of Meeker by Chester Lytle, whose address he will get. He had the jar discovered by Blythe which I saw last summer. I reexamined it. It is typical San Juan black-and-white type, but shows a barely perceptible glaze, especially on the black lines. Outline thus [drawing] with loops for thongs. Retired at 9:30 very tired.
Meeker, Colo., May 19,1910.
Up at 7:15 a.m. Bright and warm. Breakfasted with Riland, then went with him to call on Mr. Donnelly, a taxidermist, who was not at home. He had an enormous mt. lion skin prepared with an immense head. Met Miss Davis and Miss Shafcott (?) teachers in the Meeker School, Mr. Stocky (Miss Carr's uncle). Called on Mr. Lytle, editor of Herald and Mr. J. H. Dennis, Episcopal rector. The Henry J. Hay, one of the school directors took me through the graded school. Also met Mr. Oland, in the bank, a University graduate. Mr. Moulton, a bank official, called on me at the hotel, having a son in the University. Dr. Samuel French took me to his rooming house and showed me some Indian grave relics which he presented to the University and Mr. Strocker, in the drug store, agreed to pack them for shipment. Met Principal Hale at the hotel table at noon. Afternoon laid down for a time. At 6 p.m. I dined with the rector and his family. Got to hall at 7:30 but the exercises did not begin until 8:30. I delivered the commencement address, talking about 45 minutes. Has been a fine day.
Meeker, Colo., May 20, 1910
Cloudy morning. I arose at 6:45 a.m. to take the morning stage. Hotel bill $4.00. Stage got out of town at 7:40. Cold. Reached change of horses at 11 a.m. and Piceance Creek, 20 miles from Rifle, at 1:05 p.m. in rain. Dinner 50¢. Rained more or less at first in afternoon, then frightfully dusty giving me an attack of hay fever. Reached Rifle at 6:05 too late for Midland train. Got off on D. & R.G. at 10:05, 35 minutes late. Sprinkling as we left. Supper 50¢. River 90 yds wide at bridge, bed twice as wide. Berth $2.50. On D. & R. G., May 21, 1910
Cloudy, sprinkling this morning. Cold better, Breakfast 55¢. Roads muddy north of Pueblo, snowing at Colorado Springs, ground soon white. Dinner 55¢. Reached Denver at 1:40 p.m., caught 2 o'clock interurban car for Boulder, still storming. About two inches of snow between Colorado Springs and Denver, none on ground at Boulder, but ground muddy. Reached Boulder at 3:30 p.m.
San Pedro Reporting
[edit]Southern California Tertiary and Pleistocene localities from Arnold's San Pedro Report.
San Diego Formation= Pliocene San Pedro Formation = Pleistocene
Long Beach Bluff east of town is upper San Pedro Pleistocene, with fossils, especially at base of bluff. About 50 spp.
[N-S cross section drawing in book]
Raised beach at N end shows uplift still in progress, perfect color still preserved in the fossils, 34 species still living. At the arch point on east end Pliocene bluff capped unconformably by lower San Pedro. "Miocene" fossils reported are all from a Pliocene stratum unconformable on Miocene. Arnold p. 225. Pliocene - many species now live only in colder water to north. 17.3 % of fauna now extinct. Arnold pp15-16. 87 spp Pliocene on Deadman Isl., of which 55 now live at San Pedro, 16 only north, none only south, 15 extinct, 1 doubtful. Lower San Pedro- a stratum 4 to 10 feet thick on W side, 20 ft on E side filled with fossils. Many of the species not found in Pliocene. 247 spp in lower San Pedro of Deadman Isl., 158 now live at San Pedro, 43 only N of San Pedro, 8 only S of San Pedro, 31 extinct, 7 doubtful habitat. This also northern fauna. Upper San Pedro of Deadman Isl. 134 spp. Not as many as at San Pedro.
Post-Pleistocene
Kitchen middens at Deadman Isl., San Pedro, Santa Barbara etc. San Pedro
[S-N cross section of water front area in field book]
S end lowest terrace (bluff) looking N.E. from Crawfish Georges towards Timms Point, contorted Miocene shales overlaid by horizontal layers of upper San Pedro.
Lumber yard bluff looking SW toward San Pedro Valley, upper and lower Pleistocene, unconformable. Upper soil is kitchen midden. Lumber yard fauna more like that 200 or 300 miles further south shows a change in climate.
Pliocene lithologically and faunally same as at San Diego. 28 Pliocene species at Timm's Point. Pliocene also found at R.R. cut in bluff in S.E. San Pedro, with a stratum filled with Thracia trapezoides.
Lower San Pedro in bluffs, 140 species, including 14 not found on Deadman Island. Upper San Pedro- shallow R.R. cut at SW limit of San Pedro Terrace, 2 to 3 ft. bed of gravel with fossils, particularly in ravine cutting bluff at Crawfish Georges. 252 species, 172 now living at San Pedro, 15 only N of San Pedro, 36 only S of San Pedro, 24 extinct, 4 doubtful.
Map of San Pedro
[Sketch map in field book] Los Cerritos
[N-S cross section in field book] 160 species, all upper San Pedro.
Hard sand beneath 100 ft. of soft sand at mouth of canyon at end of large wharf. 16 species, Pleistocene.
Pleistocene, N of Barlow Ranch, 3 mi. E. of Ventura<, nearly to summit of "The Peak", 25 ft. fossiliferous in many layers. 50 species, Peak 1000 ft or more high. Port Harford
R.R. cut at Fossil Point, with 6 foot kitchen midden.
Miocene overlaid by San Pablo Neocene unconformably, all capped by Pleistocene brecciated shale.
Packard's Hill late Pliocene. I found apparently some bryozoan on S. end of Packard Hill, a higher horizon than Pliocene exposure on east face.
Bluff capped by Pleistocene gravels and sands. Prof. Wm. E. Ritter, Director, Biol. Station San Diego Spanish Bight, hard layer fossiliferous Pleistocene forms beach at foot of bluff. Pacific Beach, slightly tilted San Diego Pliocene sandstone capped by horizontal upper San Pedro gravels. San Diego formation rests on massive gravels and conglomerates at Pacific Beach. Here San Diego has a Pecten expansus and a Opalia varicostata horizon. Foot of 26th st., upper San Pedro formation in lower half of bluff, with Anomia limatula horizon at base and forming low reef on beach. Pliocene, 2 faunal horizons, but one stratigraphic unit.
((I have asked Shi-Kuei Wu to go over this list of taxa and he has made some corrections which I have included if they pertain to spelling. If the taxon has changed because of later revisions, corrections, or synonomies that is noted after the original reference.))
Mollusca Cowries. Cypraea spadicea- brown cowry Erato vitellina, 1/2 in., heavy, smooth, aperture toothed Erato columbella, much smaller, delicate Ovula deflexa, slender- var. barbareuse
{added:} Trivia dolandri, large coffee bean with dorsal caudal in californica, small, no caudal
Conus californicus Littorina planaxis- gray littorine, columella flattened by dissolution in advanced growth whorl. Littorina scutulata- checked littorine, smaller, greenish-gray, white bands or specks, columella not flat. Melampus olivaceus, pear shaped, tide flats Lunatia heros, large, Atlantic coast Natica duplicata, small Atlantic coast Polynices lewisii- large ridged moonshell ((now Lunatia)) Polynices recluzianus- southern moonshell, thick umbilical enamel ((now Lunatia)) Natica clausa-closed natica Norrisia norrisi- smooth, brown naticoid, green umbilicus. Pomaulax undosa- Wavy top shell ((now Astraea)) Phasianella compta ? small pheasant shell Vermetus lituellus- ill shaped, flattened cone, not colonial, rough 1/8 in. ((Spiroglyphus)) Vermetus squamigerus-scaly wormshell ((Serpulorbis)) Acmaea spectrum- ribbed limpet Acmaea patina-plate limpet, nearly smooth, very fine striae Acmaea pelta -shield limpet blunt ribs, high, conical, gray or striped, internal brown stripe(marginal) and brown central spot often Acmaea asmi- black limpet, black, conical, 1/4 in. long Acmaea persona-mask limpet, apex near terminal ((drawing)), ribs prominent, irregular, outside gray or mottled, inside varying brown and white. Acmaea scabra- file limpet, fine, file-like riblets, variable light to dark, usually white inside Acmaea mitra -White cap, white conical, thick Acmaea insessa-sea-weed limpet, small dark brown, horny, high peaked ((drawing)) Acmaea instabilis - 3/4 in. , narrower than incessa, smooth, brown out and white in. Acmaea depicta - painted limpet, narrow, flat sides straight, white with brown radiating lines, 6-12 mm, southern, on grass at high tide. Acmaea paleacea - chaffy limpet, small, like last but narrower, brown no stripes. Has a var. triangularis. Lottia gigantea- Owl limpet, low, apex terminal, largest on coast Fissurella volcano- volcano limpet, striped with reddish Fissuridea aspera- rough, conical, puncture oval, not narrow as in volcano, ribbed, gray with dark purple rays ((Diodora)) Fissuridea murina- white keyhole limpet. Smaller, more delicate, oblong, round hole 1/3 from end, fine ribs checked concentrically, pure white 15 mm ((Diodora)) Luscapina crenulata- great keyhole limpet. Largest American species ((Megathura)) Lucapinella callomarginata-Southern keyhole limpet. Small, low, large oblong hole, rough rays, white interior, gray or dark rayed exterior. Keyhole Limpets continued
Megatebennus bimaculatus- smaller, hole large, dark rays on end making two white spots, northern Puncturella major- large white limpet, Behring Sea Puncturella galatea-elevated. Puget Sound Puncturella cucullata- ribbed, Puget Sound to Monterey Puncturella cooperi- Catalina Isl.- internal plate between puncture and apex Subemargulina gatesi-Monterey- large, trough from apex to margin inside.
Haliotis fulgeus-green abalone-southern, rather thin, low spiral ridges, interior mostly green, fine peacock scar, about 6 holes, 6 inches. Var. walallensis, from Gualala, Sonoma Co., longer flatter, paler nacre. Haliotis rufescens- red abalone-outer layer projects over inner and makes fine red edge. Outside rough, holes large (3), prominent scar, 9 in., getting rare Haliotis cracherodii-black abalone, smooth Haliotis corrugata- corrugated abalone- size and color like rufescens, but nearly circular, high arched, thick externally, corrugated, 2 or 3 large holes, scar large and brilliant, southern. Haliotis assimilis- threaded abalone, deep water, San Diego to Monterey, large one 4 in. longa and 3 1/2 wide, 7 holes, exterior threaded like tapestry carpet, moderate furrow below holes, high arched, reddish out side, inside smooth silvery, no visible scar, thick, compact solid Haliotis gigantea-Japanese abalone-Central California to Aleutian Isl. , smaller southward, only 5 in. long, thin shell, sharp edge, spire prominent, surface uneven, 4 holes with high walls, interior very iridescent, light colors prevailing, scar not distinct.
Crepidula fornicata- Atlantic coast
Crepidula onyx Panama etc.
Crepidula rugosa- Cali. Largest on Cali. Coast, abundant ((Crucibulum))
Crepidula navicelloides- white, flat or irregular
Crepidula lessoni- like navicelloides, but long, narrow, thickened by several layers partly detached at edges. ((Sentillina))
Crepidula dorsata- small, flat circular, thin, wrinkled, brown and white, deck partly detached. Crepidula aculeata- low apex curved to one side, irregular radiating ribs, small, yellowish, white southern.
Crucibulum spinosum- cup and saucer
Calyptrate mamillaris- Chinese hat, white, low conical, pointed, small, deck twisted, mostly northern.
Capulus californicus- like Crepidula adunca but no deck, white inside, brown epidermis outside, 40 mm
Amalthea antiquata-ancient hoofshell, rough, irregular, flat, apex at one end.
Amalthea cranoides-flat hoofshell, like last but still flatter, apex near center
Amalthea tumens-much more regular, apex recurved, radial lines crossed by growth lines, small.
Chlorostoma brunneum-brown turban-brown, white about aperture, growth lines very oblique, umbilicus rather smooth ((Callistoma))
Chlorostoma aureotinctum-few spiral ridges, waved, gray or black, yellow umbilical stain ((Tegula))
Chlorostoma montereyi-very rare ((Tegula))
Chlorostoma pulligo- ((Tegula))
Chlorostoma viridulium ligulatum, raised beaded spiral bands, dotted with black ((Tegula))
Chlorostoma gallina-southern, mostly black, speckled with lighter ((Tegula))
Chlorostoma gallina, var. tinctum- yellowish at base ((Tegula))
Chlorostoma funebrale- black turban-black or dark purple, umbilicus nearly closed, 2 teeth at base of columella. ((Tegula))
Calliostoma, spp. Raised, often beaded lines, some spp. Small
Margarita – same as Calliostoma but smaller
Olivella biplicata- large
Olivella intorta- like above, smaller, on((e)) fold on columella
Olivella pedroana- tapering to spire
Cerithidea californica-on tideflats - Newport, Alamitos, San Pedro. Bivalves
Platyodon cancellatus-swollen beaks, spoon shaped tooth, finely cancellated exterior
Mytilus californianus- common ribbed mussel
Mytilus stearnsii- very small shell, numerous ribs
Modiolus capax- red under epidermis, Terminal ((Island))
Modiolus rectus- long, slender, fragile
Septifer bifurcatus-divided ribs, decks within beaks
Donax laevigata-beaks near end ((?Tellina))
Donax flexuosus-beaks more nearly central. ((?Tellina))
Tagelus californicus-long, narrow razor shell, beaks central, very abundant.
Siliqua lucida-small, beak nearer end, rib vertical within from beak to ventral edge
Solen sicorius-beak terminal
Solen rosaceus-beak terminal
Phacoides nuttallii-finely cancellated ((Lucina))
Phacoides californicus- not cancellated (Portuguese Bend) ((Codakia))
Mactra falcata- 2 internal radiating ribs, long, triangular, small, sinus thus ((drawing in field book)) ((Spisula))
Mactra californica- sinus shorter, wide thus ((drawing in field book)) ((Mactrellina))
Mactra exoleta- Mexican (Cali. Pleist.) sharply triangular, convex, elevated umbo, sharp submarginal posterior ridge.
Mactra hemphilli- large, triangular. Sinus ((drawing in field book))
Mactra catilliformis- oblong, large, sinus ((drawing in field book))
Tresus nuttallii- very large, oblong, spoon pit, big sinus, beak near end, largest except Tivella.
Heterodonax bimaculata-small, purple rayed, brackish water (at Alamitos)
Petricola-Irregular, rough, rock borers
Zirphaea crispata- rough at one end, large, common
Penitella penita-rough at one end, small, not common
Diplodonta orbella- round, inflates
Diplodonta sericata- round, less inflated
Metis alta- big sinus, double ridge posteriorly, abundant
Semele decisa- shape like above, rough, red at Terminal ((Island))
Saxidomus nuttallii-heavy, prominent growth wrinkle.
Glycimeris intermedia- Terminal Isl. many toothed
Cardium substriatum-small, nearly obsolete ribs-Terminal ((Island))
Cardium quadrigenarium- large 40 ribbed, ribs tuberculate on posterior angle
Cardium procerum-22 subangular, smooth ribs, narrow grooves between-angle nearer anterior side.
Cardium corbis-37 prominent, squarish, regular, close set ribs, slightly rugose by growth lines-ribs less prominent and rounder toward posterior side.
Cardium elatum- numerous faint, square ribs, fine wavy growth lines, very large, nearly smooth surface.
Tivela stultorum-large, heavy, short triangular sinus
Cryptomya californica- spoon tooth in one valve, shell small, oblong.
Lima dehiscens-small, oblique, narrow winged, finely ribbed as in Pteria
Pecten aequisulcatus- large, abundant
Pecten circularis-now lives only S of Cali.
Pecten latiauratus-thin, round. Common
Pecten (Hinnites) giganteus-large, heavy, irregular
Anomia lampe- radial ridges, common at Long Beach
Anomia limatula-southern, no radial sculpture
Ostrea lurida- common
Ostrea lurida expansa- circular
Ostrea lurida rugoides-red within
Monia macroschisma- like large heavy Anomia, green within, muscle scar radial ribbed
Chama exogyra- sinistral from above, not pellucid
Chama pellucida- dextral from above, pellucid
Psammobia-oblong, red rayed, sharp cardinal tooth with vertical raised plate back of it.
Macoma secta-large, with horizontal plate back of cardinal tooth, sinus large and irregular, posterior external ridge-common.
Macoma nasuta-smaller, no plate back of tooth posterior point bent back
Chione succinata- concentric ridges remote, prominent lunule with growth lines and radial ribs
Chione undatella- concentric ridges more numerous and regular, and more prominent than ribs, lunule not radially ribbed
Chione fluctifraga- surface blocked, no lunule, sinus small on this genus, cf. next
Paphia staminea- concentric and radial ridges about equal, cancellation beautiful
Paphia ruderata- concentric ridges much heavier than ribs
Paphia tenerrima- concentric and radial lines fine, sinus in this genus very long
Amiantis callosa- common, fine. Wednesday, June 8, 1910
Bright hot day. I marched with the commencement procession to the cars and rode up to Chatauqua Grounds, then remained in the car instead of going to the auditorium, and came down and got ready to leave. I got my trunk off on the 8 a.m. train, checked to Los Angeles, and left on the 12:30 noon Interurban car. Express on trunk to depot - 25¢. Round trip Santa Fe Boulder - Los Angeles $51.20. Interurban Boulder to Denver 70¢. Sleeper Denver to Los Angeles $9.50. Very hot afternoon on train, cool toward evening. Reached Colorado Springs at 6:30 and got dinner at Depot, 70¢. Changed cars at La Junta and got a very fine car, leaving at 10:45, making close connection. Got to bed at 11 p.m., very tired.
- A long list of taxa
California Trips
[edit]- Treks to Southern California, Arizona and New Mexico
Bivalves
Platyodon cancellatus-swollen beaks, spoon shaped tooth, finely cancellated exterior
Mytilus californianus- common ribbed mussel
Mytilus stearnsii- very small shell, numerous ribs
Modiolus capax- red under epidermis, Terminal ((Island))
Modiolus rectus- long, slender, fragile
Septifer bifurcatus-divided ribs, decks within beaks
Donax laevigata-beaks near end ((?Tellina))
Donax flexuosus-beaks more nearly central. ((?Tellina))
Tagelus californicus-long, narrow razor shell, beaks central, very abundant.
Siliqua lucida-small, beak nearer end, rib vertical within from beak to ventral edge
Solen sicorius-beak terminal
Solen rosaceus-beak terminal
Phacoides nuttallii-finely cancellated ((Lucina))
Phacoides californicus- not cancellated (Portuguese Bend) ((Codakia))
Mactra falcata- 2 internal radiating ribs, long, triangular, small, sinus thus ((drawing in field book)) ((Spisula))
Mactra californica- sinus shorter, wide thus ((drawing in field book)) ((Mactrellina))
Mactra exoleta- Mexican (Cali. Pleist.) sharply triangular, convex, elevated umbo, sharp submarginal posterior ridge.
Mactra hemphilli- large, triangular. Sinus ((drawing in field book))
Mactra catilliformis- oblong, large, sinus ((drawing in field book))
Tresus nuttallii- very large, oblong, spoon pit, big sinus, beak near end, largest except Tivella.
Heterodonax bimaculata-small, purple rayed, brackish water (at Alamitos)
Petricola-Irregular, rough, rock borers
Zirphaea crispata- rough at one end, large, common
Penitella penita-rough at one end, small, not common
Diplodonta orbella- round, inflates
Diplodonta sericata- round, less inflated
Metis alta- big sinus, double ridge posteriorly, abundant
Semele decisa- shape like above, rough, red at Terminal ((Island))
Saxidomus nuttallii-heavy, prominent growth wrinkle.
Glycimeris intermedia- Terminal Isl. many toothed
Cardium substriatum-small, nearly obsolete ribs-Terminal ((Island))
Cardium quadrigenarium- large 40 ribbed, ribs tuberculate on posterior angle
Cardium procerum-22 subangular, smooth ribs, narrow grooves between-angle nearer anterior side.
Cardium corbis-37 prominent, squarish, regular, close set ribs, slightly rugose by growth lines-ribs less prominent and rounder toward posterior side.
Cardium elatum- numerous faint, square ribs, fine wavy growth lines, very large, nearly smooth surface.
Tivela stultorum-large, heavy, short triangular sinus
Cryptomya californica- spoon tooth in one valve, shell small, oblong.
Lima dehiscens-small, oblique, narrow winged, finely ribbed as in Pteria
Pecten aequisulcatus- large, abundant
Pecten circularis-now lives only S of Cali.
Pecten latiauratus-thin, round. Common
Pecten (Hinnites) giganteus-large, heavy, irregular
Anomia lampe- radial ridges, common at Long Beach
Anomia limatula-southern, no radial sculpture
Ostrea lurida- common
Ostrea lurida expansa- circular
Ostrea lurida rugoides-red within
Monia macroschisma- like large heavy Anomia, green within, muscle scar radial ribbed
Chama exogyra- sinistral from above, not pellucid
Chama pellucida- dextral from above, pellucid
Psammobia-oblong, red rayed, sharp cardinal tooth with vertical raised plate back of it.
Macoma secta-large, with horizontal plate back of cardinal tooth, sinus large and irregular, posterior external ridge-common.
Macoma nasuta-smaller, no plate back of tooth posterior point bent back
Chione succinata- concentric ridges remote, prominent lunule with growth lines and radial ribs
Chione undatella- concentric ridges more numerous and regular, and more prominent than ribs, lunule not radially ribbed
Chione fluctifraga- surface blocked, no lunule, sinus small on this genus, cf. next
Paphia staminea- concentric and radial ridges about equal, cancellation beautiful
Paphia ruderata- concentric ridges much heavier than ribs
Paphia tenerrima- concentric and radial lines fine, sinus in this genus very long
Amiantis callosa- common, fine. Wednesday, June 8, 1910
Bright hot day. I marched with the commencement procession to the cars and rode up to Chatauqua Grounds, then remained in the car instead of going to the auditorium, and came down and got ready to leave. I got my trunk off on the 8 a.m. train, checked to Los Angeles, and left on the 12:30 noon Interurban car. Express on trunk to depot - 25¢. Round trip Santa Fe Boulder - Los Angeles $51.20. Interurban Boulder to Denver 70¢. Sleeper Denver to Los Angeles $9.50. Very hot afternoon on train, cool toward evening. Reached Colorado Springs at 6:30 and got dinner at Depot, 70¢. Changed cars at La Junta and got a very fine car, leaving at 10:45, making close connection. Got to bed at 11 p.m., very tired. Santa Fe Road Thursday, June 9, 1910
Awoke at 6 a.m., somewhere in N. Mex. Had a fine nights sleep. Breakfast on diner, strawberries, wheat cakes coffee and waiter 70¢. Lunch - fish, raspberries and ice cream, and waiter $1.10. About 2 p.m. we were stopped at Grants, in western [New] Mexico by a wreck 7 miles ahead. Started on at 5:20 2 h 58 m behind time. Dinner in diner American Plan at 6 p.m. $1.00. Hot through day and cool breeze toward evening. Retired at 10 p.m.
Santa Fe Road, June 10, 1910
Had a cool night and slept well. Arose at 6 a.m. having forgotten the change to Pacific time. Breakfast on diner strawberries, farina, toast, coffee 85¢. Mrs. Ella Davis Roberts, of Denver, formerly of Telluride and a friend of Mrs. Rohwer and a Mrs. La Forgue, had the berth opposite mine. Her husband is a physician and druggist. Reached Los Angeles at 3:10 p. m., 40 minutes late. Nellie, Alice, Ina and Dr. Carter met me at train. Trunk did not arrive. Went out to Franks and spent afternoon and evening, Dr. Carter soon leaving for Long Beach, and we reached Long beach about 10:45 p.m.
Long Beach, Saturday, June 11, 1910
Arose at 7:15 a.m. Bright, beautiful, very comfortable, Dr. carter and I walked up beach in forenoon and collected a few razor shells and Modiolas. In afternoon Nellie and I called on S. H. Underwood, justice of the peace, a U. of C. law School graduate. At 3 p.m. we and Dr. Carter went to Los Angeles to visit my brothers and sisters.
Los Angeles, Cali, Sunday
June 12, 1910
Foggy morning, soon clearing up. Spent the entire day at Frank's house and returned to Long Beach in the evening. Long Beach, Cali., Monday June 13, 1910
Foggy morning, cloudy most of the day, quite warm about noon. I got my trunk and unpacked it.
[Timetable, Sand Diego to Los Angeles, on Santa Fe RR glued in here.] Long Beach, Cali. Tuesday, June 14, 1910
Clear and warm most of day. Dr. Carter and I in forenoon walked nearly to Alamitos Bay and collected shells etc. I took several pictures. In afternoon Nellie and I walked to northeast part of town to get photo of Signal Hill.
Long Beach, Cali., Wednesday June 15, 1910
Clear most of day. In forenoon saw a “baby" elephant: taking bath in surf. In Afternoon tried to get a photo of San Pedro Hill from end of pier, using color screen. In evening we went to band concert, then developed photos.
Long Beach, Cali. Thursday June 16, 1910
Cloudy morning. Harl Kittle, with wife, Marjorie and Harlan arrived in their auto at 10 a.m. and Dan McAllister, with wife and Marion arrived on the electric car at 11 a.m. We all went to the wharf to see Little Hip, the young elephant, take his bath in the ocean, We all dined at the cafeteria. At 3 p.m. we all went into swimming pool and then into surf. The Kittles and McAllisters all left about 6:45 p.m. in the auto.
Long Beach, Cali. Friday. June 17, 1910.
Very fine day, I remained at the house most of the day, nursing a toe which I skinned in the swimming pool yesterday.
Long Beach, Cali.Saturday. June 18, 1910.
Cloudy morning. Arose at 6:45 a.m. Nellie and I took 9:30 train for E. San Pedro on Salt Lake Route. Train 10 minutes late. Fare one way 15¢ each. Ferry to San Pedro 5¢ each. Took Santa Rosa for San Diego, fare one way $3.00 each, leaving San Pedro at 10:30 a.m. Boat is old and dirty. Sea rather calm. Saw fire and boat drill about 11:30 on upper deck. Had rather poor dinner at12:45 p.m. (included in fare). In afternoon saw a school of sharks and a whale, but no more flying fish. Gulls left us after dinner. Picked up another lot off La Jolla. Reached San Diego at about 5 p.m. and went to Jewett Hotel, corner of 4th and A Streets, a neat, clean place, good room for two for $1.50 per day. In evening we went to Garrick Theatre and saw " The Lion and the Mouse", a good play well presented. Supper at Opera Cafeteria for two 49¢.
San Diego, Cali., Sunday. June 19, 1910.
Up at 8 a.m. Bright, hot morning. Breakfast at Adventist "Vegetarian cafe", 30¢ for two. Walked W. to bay then north along shore. Found only dead Chione succincta and fluctifraga, Tagelus californicus, Paphia sp., Ostrea lurida and var. expansa, a very large Bulla gouldiana and numerous live Cerithidea californica. Returned to hotel at noon, and at 1:30 dined at Opera Cafeteria, 58¢ for the two of us. Cool sea breeze where not sheltered from it. Fruit 45¢.
San Diego, Cali., Monday June 20, 1910.
Up at 7 a.m. Breakfasted in company with C. G. Buckingham and mother at Opera Cafe, 70¢ for us two. Nellie and I then caught the 8:23 a.m. car at David and 3rd Sts. For Ocean Beach, at N end of Pt. Loma, arriving there about 9 a.m. Surf there as fine as we have seen anywhere, several long white lines of surf as we looked northward. We collected some mollusks and crustacea, but could only follow beach a short distance, then had to take to the bluffs. Precipitous bluffs (sea cliffs) and rocky shore, deeply and sharply channeled, Did not succeed in getting back to the beach again until we reached Pt. Loma lighthouse. We collected two species of land snails. All along the fences, W, NW and SW of the Theosophy buildings we found warnings against trespassing, but kept straight on through. Fried beefsteak and made coffee at noon. Reached lighthouse about 2 p.m. and were shown through by officer in charge. Collected shells on the beach there. At Ocean Beach the Littorina plana are very large. Left the light house at 4:45, climbing the hill by a trail and striking an old road at the old Spanish lighthouse. Further along the government is building a boulevard, and the work made walking very hard. Reached Roseville at 7 p.m., very tired, and a Mr. And Mrs. Lucky, in a tent, got us a ham and egg supper for 70¢. Got at car for San Diego at 8:35 and reached hotel shortly after nine. In air line our walk would be about 10 miles, but we really travelled about 15 miles, and they were very hard miles, crossing gulches, pushing through shrubbery and travelling in deep sand along roadways, and we carried heavy loads. Not sorry we went but glad we do not have to go again. The day has been ideal.
San Diego, Cali., Tuesday June 21, 1910
Up at 7:30, both rather sore. Breakfast at restaurant on 6th St., toast, coffee and cantaloupe 40¢ for two of us. Fruit bread and jelly for lunch 40¢. Left hotel at 9;30, got car at 5th and D Sts. For ferry at 9:50, reached beach at Coronado Tent City at 10:30 and started down beach. Shells scarce. Lunched at noon. Partly cloudy, breezy. Went on at 12:45. Turned back at 2 p.m. Then I walked to Spanish Bight and got a few fossil Amiantis callosa and one fossil sand dollar at foot of bluff. We reached our hotel at 5:50 p.m. Car fare to ferry from our hotel and back in evening 10¢ each. Ferry round trip 10¢ each. Car fare from ferry to Tent City and return 10¢ each total 60¢. Dinner at Opera Cafeteria for two 60¢. Then we went to Queen Theatre and saw Little Hip, the "baby" elephant perform. The sand spit on which Coronado is located is evidently a "raised beach". Tivela stultorum and Donax laevigata occur in great numbers in the sand dunes, with a few Chione fluctifraga etc. On the beach of the ocean side found very few of the Tivela, more Donaxand no Chione. At Coronado found 21 Acmaea unita and several of the rough white keyhole limpets, one Modiolus rectus, several Mytilus californicus, a few Periploma planiscula, Macoma sp., Platyodon cancellatus, Zirphaea crispata, Pecten latiauritus. On the bay beach we found Chione fluctifraga, Cerithidea, abundant Melampus olivaceus, a few Heterodonax bimaculatus and one or two Paphia sp. Except at Tent City, the ocean beach of this beach has no shells except Tivela and Donax.
San Diego, Cali., Wednesday June 22, 1910.
Arose at 7 a.m. Cloudy, soon clearing. I breakfasted at Opera Cafeteria, 20¢, Nellie not being up yet. Then I took car and ferry to 10th st., Coronado and walked to bluff N. of Spanish Bight, where I collected fossils at base of bluff. Amiantis callosa and Dentalium spp. were very abundant. Got quite a lot of species. Started back at 12:30 m. Fossils very abundant in a two foot horizon at base of bluff, occurring in masses. Saw none above. At 2 p.m. Nellie and I had dinner at Opera Cafeteria, 62¢. Nellie's breakfast 20¢. At 3 p.m. we took Logan Heights car on 5th for foot of 26th St., where we collected Anomia, Ostrea, Dosinia etc. Returned at 6:30 p.m. to hotel. At foot of 26th St., the Anomia horizon is 12 or 15 ft. above the water, with a clam horizon lower down and an oyster horizon at the base, forming the beach of the bay. Up the beach we did not find any Anomia, the Pleistocene beds having been eroded away, and about 10 ft of loose soil forming the greater part of the bluff.
Thus [NW-SE sectional drawing in field book].
San Diego, Cali., Thursday
June 23, 1910.
Up at 6:30. Breakfast at Opera Cafeteria, 55¢ for both of us. Cotton 15¢ Got a box and finished packing our specimens. The box contains only material from foot of 26th st., all fossil. The other material and a few 26th st. fossils fill one of the suit cases, the other containing our clothes. All these are to be expressed to Long Beach. Key for suit case 25¢. Tips to bell boys for expressing stuff, etc. 50¢. Left on 9 o'clock motor car, corner of 4th and C, for La Jolla. Two tickets for Braemar 60¢, but got off at Pacific Beach and started south to round the point which juts into False bay. On east side of this cape we found old kitchen middens crowning the bluffs, containing chiefly Pecten and Chione, but with numerous Pomaulax undosus. At the point we struck a shell conglomerate, mostly Donax laevigata, probably Pliocene, at base of bluff and following around to west side, found it extending higher up the bluff (dip being south) and containing great numbers of sand stars, of which we collected 60 or 70.At north end of bluff we packed out stuff, the fossils making one bag full. Also had a lot of recent land snails and Bulla gouldiana. Then we ate dinner and took two pictures. Continued due west to the ocean and turned north, where we found within a short distance a Pleistocene horizon containing many species, of which we collected quite a lot. They were small species. The strata dipped south. A few rods further up the beach we found the Pecten expansus and Opalia horizon and collected a lot. Proceeding north up the beach the bluffs got higher and we got into lower horizons, the dip being perhaps 5 or 10° S., but no more fossils. Got some recent Pomaulax undosus. Left the beach at Bird Rock and walked to La Jolla, where we got a room at Cabrilla Hotel at 5 p.m., very hot and tired. Had a tremendous load. At 6 p.m. we dined at the "Brown Bear", $1.00 for the two of us. After dinner I wrapped our fossils and got them ready for packing.
La Jolla, Colo. ((clearly Henderson meant 'Cali.')), Friday. June 24, 1910.
Up at 7:20, breakfast at private boarding house 60¢ for the two of us. We then walked to the new marine biological station, a mile or two up the beach. None of the staff were there, so at 11 oclock Nellie started back to the hotel. I started later and caught up with her just as she reached town. We went to the old biological station, met Prof. Torrey, of the University of California, and Prof. Childs, of Chicago, Prof. And Mrs. Ritter not being there. At 12:30 we dined at the Crescent Cafe, in the bath house, 50¢ each. It was an excellent meal. Then we bought some ham, fruit and 4 cantaloupes for 65¢ and packed the specimens for shipment. At 3:30 p.m. we started down the beach and collected a large number of small specimens, including several species of limpets, Crepidula and Amalthea. Returned at 6 p.m. and turned our boxes over to Holsten's Transfer Co., to be expressed by Wells Fargo Express tomorrow. Transfer charges 15¢. Lunched (sic) at Crescent Cafe, 75¢ including waiter. After lunch, a local band played on the corner near the hotel. It was the worst music I ever heard. La Jolla is a beautiful place with a number of fine homes. The sea cliff is very precipitous, with short stretches of sandy beach at the base. The sandstones are much faulted without much vertical displacement, and jointed, and along the fault and joint planes the waves have cut deep, narrow, sharply defined channels, some only two or three feet wide being 15 or more feet in depth and extending for 50 feet or more into the sea wall. There are numerous arches and caves from the same cause. Has been cloudy most of the day.
La Jolla, Cali., Saturday June 25, 1910
Up at 6 a.m. Breakfasted at Crescent Cafe in Bathhouse, $1.00. Hotel bill $3.00. Started at 7:40 north with our packs. After passing new biological station the sea cliff is high and precipitous for miles, with an occasional ravine opening back into it. Most of the way there is a beach. Only had to run around one point between the waves. About 3 miles north of the biological station we found many Owl limpets on the rocks. A mile or two south of the Torrey pines we collected large, heavy fossil oysters which form several layers at the foot of the cliff and 30 to 40 feet above. I suppose they are Tertiary. Further down coast we had noticed a marked unconformity in the bluff. Lunched at 11:30 p.m. (sic) still cloudy. Took 2 pictures of the bluff with fossil horizon at base, then started on, reaching Del Mar at 3 p.m. and got room at Stratford Inn. I went to the Post Office store, packed the fossils etc. in a box, addressed it and took it to the express office, where I left it in the hallway, the agent being absent. The postmaster promised to see that it is shipped. Got a 50¢ black and white striped shirt. My khaki coat is badly discolored from the dye sweating out of my black suspenders. We had dinner served in our room as we looked too "tacky" to go into the dining room at so swell a place. Tip for bell boy 25¢. The inlet shown on the U.S.G.S. topographic sheet at the mouth of the Soledad Valley which I feared would give us trouble, is not now an inlet at all. It seems above the highest tides and there was no water coming from the valley. Along the north edge of the valley the Santa Fe R.R. is grading a new line to run along the top of the bluff. Passed the Torrey pines before we knew it. Cloudy all day.
Del Mar, Cali., Sunday June 26, 1910.
Expected to stay here over Sunday, but the hotel is too fine for our rough and dirty khaki clothes, so concluded to go on. Had breakfast served in our room at 8:45. Nellie left for Oceanside on the 9:23 a.m. train. Then I started on foot up the beach with my pack. Reached Encinitas at 12:45 and went to the Derby House for dinner. A very decent looking village hotel. Del Mar hotel bill $5.50 and 25¢ for bell boy who brought our breakfast. From Del Mar to Encinitas the most common shell was Donax laevigata, next was Pecten cancellatus. Pecten latiauritus is also common and numbers of Pomaulax undosus occur- dead shells above high tide. Other species were not common. Cloudy again today. A fair country hotel dinner 50¢. Found the same fossil oyster horizon at base of sea cliff at Encinitas that we collected from further south yesterday. Nellie's fare Del Mar to Oceanside 60¢. My fare Encinitas to Oceanside 40¢. Left Encinitas at 3 p.m. on train. Nellie met me at depot and took me to room she had found. At 5:30 we supped at a restaurant, 70¢. Retired at 7:20 p.m., very tired. Oceanside, Cali., Monday, June 27, 1910.
Arose at 6 a.m. Breakfasted at restaurant, 70¢. Started south along beach at 7:10 a.m., without our packs. Sandy beach often up to the foot of the sea cliff, though usually there is a pebble zone above the sandy beach. In the pebble zone we found many Pomaulax undosa, with a few other shells. On the sandy beach there were not many shells except Donax laevigata. Live Tivela stultorum are not uncommon. Reached Encinitas at 1:10, distance 12 miles. Dined at derby House, $1.00. Distances walked to present date:
==
[edit]Ocean Beach to Roseville via Point Loma about 15 miles Coronado Beach 12 Pacific Beach around bay shore to Ocean, thence to La Jolla 9 At La Jolla 8 La Jolla to Del Mar 11 Del Mar to Encinitas (Nellie went on train) 7 Oceanside to Encinitas12
==
[edit]74
Expenses up to present date: ((here follows a detailed listing of expenses which is not really pertinent)) Expenses up to present date: ((Here follows a detailed listing of expenses which is not really pertinent.))
Left Encinitasfor Oceanside on 3 p.m. train, fare 80¢. Supped at restaurant 70¢. Ice cream and postcards, 30¢. Sunshine for a little while in afternoon. Retired at 7:30.
Oceanside, Cali., Tuesday, June 28, 1910.
Up at 7:10. Breakfast at restaurant 70¢. Started north without packs at 8:45. Shells not numerous. Lunched at noon about 4 miles up beach. Lots of fragments of Polynices lewisii but not one good specimen. Fruit etc. for lunch 15¢. Left beach and walked S to a station, but found is was Stuart, not a regular flag station, so had to walk about 3 miles N. to Las Flores to be sure of a train. This is a regular flag station. It made the total distance walked today fully 12 miles. The beach was the same as from Del Mar to Oceanside, gentle sandy slope headed by coarse pebble or boulder stretch at foot of bluffs. These pebbles are from 2 to 6 inches in diameter, piled into a steep wall. Where valleys break through the cliff, fine barrier bars of boulders have been formed all along this coast and in some places several parallel narrow bars. Got a train back at 4:42. There was a noticeable absences of Pomaulax undosus. Fragments of Polynices lewisii abundant. Supper 70¢. Hot salt bath 50¢. Ice cream, candy and lemonade 55¢. Nails 5¢. Cotton and paper tablet 25¢. Packed two boxes of specimens. Retired at 9 p.m.
Oceanside, Cali., Wednesday June 29, 1910.
Up at 7:30. Supper 70¢. Fixing shoes 10¢. Sun shining hazily this forenoon. Left on 10:02 train for Las Flores, fare 50¢. At Las Flores, we started up the track, then crossed on a wagon road to the beach, then north up beach. Shells not abundant except Donax laevigata, which thickly strewed the beach. Good walking for first half, after which the beach became steep and of soft sand, the hard beaten sand being covered by the surf, but with a good cow trail for the last two miles at the foot of the cliff. Cliff nearly vertical, with hard sandstone unconformably overlaid by coarse conglomerate about 100 feet thick, with some deep gulches dissecting it. The last two miles Donax disappeared but Chione were fairly common. Found two colonies of rock boring pelecypoda. Reached San Onofre at 3:16 p.m., having left Las Flores Station at 10:30 a.m. and stopped about 45 minutes for lunch. Caught the 4:28 train from San Onofre to Oceanside, $1.10. Got a box to finish packing our specimens 5¢. We are also expressing some clothes, frying pans etc., to lighten our packs. We now have 4 boxes packed for shipment from here. Supper at restaurant 70¢. Ice cream, lemonade and candy 50¢. After supper we called on Mrs. Fulton and her daughter and son-in-law, Mr. And Mrs. Sloan. Clear at bedtime.
Oceanside, Cali., Thursday, June 30, 1910.
Up at 7 a.m. Cloudy, soon clearing. Breakfast at restaurant 70¢. Fruit, sardines etc. for lunch 45¢. Express on 4 boxes, 110 pounds, to Long Beach $1.40. Mrs. Maggie Stoker, room for 4 days $2.00. Tickets to San Onofre $1.10. Between Las Flores and San Onofre we passed through a bean field several miles long and extending from the sea cliff at least half a mile back. Left Oceanside at 10:16 a.m., 14 minutes late, Reached San Onofre at 10:43 and started up beach with packs on our backs. Better beach for walking than yesterday, but shells scarce. Very few Donax or Platyodon. About 2 miles up there are boulders harboring many marine snails. Found one live Pomaulax undosa, very large. Lunched opposite San Mateo rocks at 12:30, starting on at 1:05. The tide forced us up the beach to the steep, soft sand, and as there were no shells. We finally took to the railroad track and wagon road, which parallel the shore along the flat which intervenes between the sea cliff and the shore. This flat extends from San Onofre to Sera (sic), running from a few rods to several hundred yards in width. Reached Serra (San Juan) at 4 p.m. and went up the valley nearly to Capistrano (which is 3 miles from Serra) where we stopped for the night at the ranch of Mrs. Barnes, This is a beautiful valley, devoted chiefly to walnut growing and appears quite productive. It has been a hot, bright day, but with a fair sea breeze along the shore. Capistrano, Cali., Friday, July 1, 1910.
Up at 6:45. Cloudy, cloudy, clearing about 10 a.m. At 8:30 Mrs. Barnes took us in a wagon to Dana Point, where we reached the beach at 9:30 and began our tramp up the beach at low tide. Collected a great deal of small stuff, mostly gastropods. Only a few chitons and no large limpets. Pomaulax undosa not common. About 6 miles south of Laguna (at 3 arches) we had to leave the beach and take to the road back on the bluffs on account of inability to pass the numerous rocky points and the great labor of carrying the packs up and down the bluffs. Reached Laguna at 5 p.m. and got a room at the hotel. Very tired. Retired about 8 p.m.
Laguna, Cali., Saturday July 2, 1910.
Up at 7 a.m. Cloudy, cool. Shipped my big pack full of stuff by auto stage (thence by express) to Long Beach, to lighten our load. Charges 25¢. Started on foot at 8:30 a.m. Beach rocky, but we only had to leave it and climb the cliffs twice, first to pass Abalone Point, and then a mile or two below the entrance to Newport bay. Reached Ferry at 3:13 p.m. Few bivalves yesterday or today except Mytilus, Chama and Lucina, and few Crepidula rugosa or Crucibulum, but at approach to Newport bay we found the same fauna as at Long Beach. Caught the 4:05 p.m. car for Los Angeles at 4:20, 15 minutes late, changing cars at Zaferia, to the Redondo Ave. car, and arriving at Long Beach at about 5:10, fare 70¢. Hotel at Laguna $3.00.
Distance walked continued from June 27: Miles Brought forward 74 Encinitas to Oceanside 12 Oceanside to Las Flores with extra 4 miles 12 Las Flores to San Onofre 10 San Onofre to Capistrano 12 Capistranoto Serra rode in wagon Serra to Laguna 12 Lagunato Balboa 10 Total 142 Refunded $3.10 express to Dr. Carter. ((Herewith more detailed accounts)) Found sister Alice and her friend, Miss Brookman, staying at the Krosnest. [this page contains a listing of train stops between Los Angeles, Santa Ana and San Diego] Long Beach, Cali., Sunday, July 3, 1910.
Bright day. We stayed home all day except to go out for dinner. In evening we went down to the water front. Found tide high, with heavy surf. The pier and "roller coaster" are so much damaged that they have been closed by the city authorities.
Long Beach, Cali., Monday, July 4, 1910.
Bright and hot all day. A noisy fourth of July here, and big crowd. Brother Henry came down and Nellie and I went to the tennis tournament with him in afternoon. Found Frank there and later Alice and her friend joined us at our rooms and we all went to dinner together at Shoup's, afterwards watching the fireworks. A section of the pier was carried away in heavy seas in the late afternoon. The news of Jeffrey's defeat by Johnson was received in the afternoon. I suspect that this may be the last big American prize fight. Folks returned to Los Angeles on late car.
Long Beach, Cali., Tuesday July 5, 1910.
Bright morning. I took a picture of the damaged pier. In afternoon I walked to Alamitos Bay and back, collecting some shells. Very hot. In evening developed pictures.
Long Beach, Cali., Wednesday July 6, 1910.
Very bright and hot. In afternoon, Nellie and I went to Miramar, east of town, for fossils. Last year we collected Pleistocene fossils at the foot of the bluff east of the easternmost stairway. Collected some more at the same place. Also, west of the stairway we found a similar horizon, probably contemporaneous, full of fossils, underlaid by a great bed of oysters, two or three feet in thickness and partially cemented together. Collected a fine lot. Still warm at bedtime.
Long Beach, Thursday July 7, 1910.
Another bright, hot day. In afternoon, Nellie and I went to Terminal Island on the 2:14 Salt Lake Train, returning at 6:30. Got a fine collection of shells, fare 50¢.
Long Beach, Friday July 8, 1910.
First cloudy morning for a week. In afternoon Dr. Carter and I went to Terminal Island and got a very fine lot of shells including Cardium etc. Mrs. Neil Lagard of North Dakota gave us some fine specimens, and Mrs. Louisa Shattuck of Terminal Island gave us some very delicate shells not to be found usually on the beaches. During our absence the Ricketts girls called on Nellie. Fine, cool day. Got a new suit of clothes, $25.00. Fare to terminal and return, 50¢ for two.
Long Beach, Saturday July 9, 1910.
Fine day. Stayed at the house nearly all day.
Long Beach, Sunday {{dated}1910-07-10|July 10, 1910}}.
Cloudy morning, soon clearing. Beautiful day. Nellie and I went to Los Angeles on 10 a.m. flyer and spent day at Frank's. Reached Long Beach, at 9 p.m. Have had swollen gums yesterday and today. Have been treating them with dioxygen and compound tincture of benzoin.
Long Beach, July 11, 1910. Monday.
Beautiful day, fine cool, breeze. Nellie and I went to Alamitos in afternoon and got a good collection. Also took a row in the bay. The oysters from the bay appear to be all the circular form O.l. expansa, while those on the ocean side are the long form O. lurida.
Long Beach, Cali. Tuesday
July 12, 1910.
Cloudy morning. I arose at 5 a.m. and walked to Mira Mar. Tide was low and I got some fine specimens, including a very large hermit crab in shell of Polynices lewisii, flexible corals, several moonshells (P. lewisii) etc. Met a doctor from Harvard, Neb., on the beach who assisted me to get a big fossil Cardium quadrigenarium half way up the bluff. Returned about 9 a.m. and spent balance of forenoon preparing and packing the material collected this morning. Cleared up before noon. John Kennedy, Wife and daughter called in forenoon, having just arrived from Pomona. Saw D. E. Dobbins at Kennebec Cafeteria at noon. In afternoon Nellie and I went to Los Angeles. I got some dry-plates. Nellie called on Mrs. Kerr and her mother and we returned on the evening train. After supper we went to band concert with the Kennedys.
Long Beach, Wednesday July 13, 1910
Cloudy morning, cleared up before noon. In the forenoon Nellie and I went into the ocean and plunge with the Kennedys. In the afternoon Dr. carter went to Los Angeles, returning in evening, and Kennedys supped here. Skinned my knuckles and foot diving in the plunge. Had teeth scraped at dentist's.
Long Beach, Thursday, July 14, 1910.
Cloudy, clearing in forenoon. Foot quite sore, so I stayed home most of day and studied Spanish. (( Here follows a pasted in time table of the "Salt Lake Route")) Long Beach, Cali., Friday, July 15, 1910.
Bright clear morning and hot forenoon. On account of sore foot stayed home all forenoon studying Spanish. In afternoon Nellie and I went to Santa Ana via Watts, to visit the Kittles, reaching there at 4:40 p.m. Hot day.
Santa Ana, Cali., Saturday July 16, 1910.
Bright and hot all day. Unoiled roads very dusty. The Kittles had the Strocks over to breakfast in honor of Nellie's birthday. In afternoon we all went to Kittle's ranch in the auto. In evening the women went to motion picture show and Harl and I stayed at Carl Strock's store and listened to the phonograph.
Santa Ana, Sunday, July 17, 1910.
Bright morning but became cloudy by 7 a.m. "High fog", they call it in California where they do not admit cloudy days. Heard thunder during forenoon. Dined at Strock's. Started for Long Beach at 6:05 p.m. While at Santa Ana we saw a 17000 acre beanfield on a 100,000 acre ranch.
Long Beach, Cali., Monday, July 18, 1910.
From 6:45 to 8 a.m. one peal of thunder followed another in rapid succession. At 7:30 it began to rain, continuing until after 10 a. m. and sprinkling fitfully until nearly noon. Said to have been the first July rain here for 16 years. Afternoon clear. I remained at home all day nursing my sore foot. In evening, Dr. Mabie, a Baptist minister who has at different times been located at Rockford, Boulder and Marshalltown, the only towns in which Nellie has lived, called to spend the evening. Truly this is a small world after all. Here he is now, temporarily located in the same town with her in another state, making 4 towns in 4 states.
Long Beach, Cali., Tuesday,
July 19,1910.
Bright, hot morning. Arose at 7 a.m. Started for East San Pedro on 9:30 a.m. Salt Lake train, Nellie, the Ricketts girls and I. Got boat from La Marr and rowed to Deadman Isl. At ladder on N end of island the lowest bluff is Pliocene, the slope is lower San Pedro Pleistocene unconformable on Pliocene, upper bluff is upper San Pedro Pleistocene, above which is soil, in places filled with Pecten aequisulcatus thus: ((drawing in field book)) Miocene underlies Pliocene at west end of bluff. E-W section at ladder thus: ((drawing in field book)). At E end section over the arch is thus: ((drawing in field book)). I believe Arnold reports Pecten aequisulcatus a common fossil in the upper San Pedro formation at Deadman Island. I searched all the formations and did not find a single specimen of it in place in any of them except the kitchen middens of the soil layer at the top. They were abundant on the slopes and at the base of the bluffs, but had quite evidently fallen and slid down from the middens, Found nothing in the Miocene. Returned to Salt Lake station at East San Pedro at 5:15 p.m. Very hot here but breezy on Deadman Island. Round trip fare for 4 $1.00, boat $1.00
Long Beach, Cali., Wednesday. July 20, 1910.
Up at 7 a.m. Started for San Pedro on 9:30 San Pedro electric car, arriving there at 10 a.m. fare one way 15 ¢ each. Very hot, bright morning where protected from the breeze, but fine breeze. At 10:30 took a car and rode nearly to Point Firman, beyond end of jetty. Then walked back to Crawfish Georges, where we collected Pleistocene fossils in the ravine. Reached Pacific Electric Station at 2:45 and took 3:10 p.m. car for Long Beach. Evening attended band concert in auditorium.
Long Beach, Cali., Thursday July 21, 1910.
Bright, hot morning. Nellie and I and the Ricketts girls took the 9:30 a.m. Salt Lake train for East San Pedro, where at 10:15 we started on launch Camighini for Portuguese Bend, reaching there at 11:45 a.m. After a fine fish dinner I went to Moonstone Beach and collected sea urchins, etc. The large Owl limpets seem to occur only where the waves splash. Started back at 4:15 p.m. Several were sea sick both ways, including Nellie. After supper at Shoup's Restaurant I cleaned the urchins.
July 22, 1910 Long Beach, Cali., Friday
Warm day. In forenoon I went to Los Angeles to have the plates developed, as the warm sulphurous water of Long Beach is not fit for developing. In evening Nellie and I attended band concert.
Long Beach, Cali., Saturday July 23, 1910.
Warm day. Nellie and I went to Los Angeles in forenoon to remain over Sunday with Frank and the girls. I engaged sleeper for Santa Fe for next Friday night,
Long Beach, Cali., Sunday July 24, 1910.
Spent the day quietly at Frank's house reading "Anne of Green Gables". We all returned to {{place|Long Beach, CA|Long Beach in evening and Nellie and I attended the band concert.
Long Beach, Cali., Monday July 25, 1910.
Pleasant day. I stayed at home most of the day nursing my sore foot. Long Beach, Cali., Tuesday July 26, 1910.
Cloudy morning, as usual soon clearing. In forenoon I had Dr Sellery examine my sore foot. He said there is no puss under the new skin, but he put on an iodine pad to stimulate the sore and advised boracic acid dressing covered with rubber cloth to retain moisture and heat, lying down with foot raised to aid prompt return of blood from foot to heart. So afternoon I stayed in lying down with foot bandaged.
Long Beach, Cali., Wednesday. July 27, 1910.
Cloudy morning, soon clearing. A. E. Wilbur called in forenoon. I finished packing the specimens and shipped 11 boxes to the University via Salt Lake Route, cartage 50¢ freight $12.56. Frank and his wife and Henry came over from Los Angeles and spent the evening with us. Long Beach, Cali., Thursday July 28, 1910.
Fine cool morning, breezy, cloudy at first, soon clearing. Sent my trunk to Los Angeles on morning "Salt Lake" train. In afternoon we all went to Seuver ((?)). I got my ticket validated, rechecked my trunk to Santa Fe, and we dined at Frank's house, returning to Long Beach on the 10 p.m. car
Long Beach, Cali., Friday July 29, 1910.
A beautiful morning, cool and breezy. At 3 p.m. Nellie and I took the Pacific Flyer for Los Angeles , Dr. Carter coming later. Went out to Frank's house. Took the 8 p.m. train on the Santa Fe Road for Santa Fe. Got ticket from Lamy to Santa Fe yesterday so as to check my trunk clear through, 75¢. Validation fee on my return ticket 50¢. I left Los Angeles at 8 p.m., fine cool breeze. Bagdad, Cali., Saturday July 30, 1910.
Breakfasted here at 6 a.m. 1 1/2 hours late. Cloudy and hot. Started on at 7 a.m. Breakfast 50¢ fruit 25¢. We are going through a region of dissected lava flows, the mountains being abrupt, with broad fans of broken rock, gravel and sand occupying the valleys, sparsely covered with a desert flora. They sent us around over the new road to avoid a washout. At 11 a.m. we stopped at Parker, a new town in the copper region, where we got dinner. 112° + in the shade. Left Parker, at 1:15 p.m. Reached A and C Jct. at 6 p.m. and waited there until 8 :15 for our engine to go and get water and fuel and for an extra engine to help up the grades to Prescott. Then we made another, long stop soon afterwards. It has rained in the nearby mountains yesterday and today.
Ash Fork, Ariz., Sunday July 31, 1910
Quite cool in early morning. Passed Long Beach, Cali., Thursday July 28, 1910
Fine cool morning, breezy, cloudy at first, soon clearing. Sent my trunk to Los Angeles on morning "Salt Lake" train. In afternoon we all went to Denver ((?)). I got my ticket validated, rechecked my trunk to Santa Fe, and we dined at Frank's house, returning to Long Beach on the 10 p.m. car
Long Beach, Cali., Friday
July 29, 1910
A beautiful morning, cool and breezy. At 3 p.m. Nellie and I took the Pacific Flyer for Los Angeles, Dr. carter coming later. Went out to Frank's house. Took the 8 p.m. train on the Santa Fe Road for Santa Fe. Got ticket from Lamy to Santa Fe yesterday so as to check my trunk clear through, 75[cents]. Validation fee on my return ticket 50[cents]. I left Los Angeles at 8 p.m., fine cool breeze. Bagdad, Cali., Saturday July 30, 1910
Breakfasted here at 6 a.m. 1 1/2 hours late. Cloudy and hot. Started on at 7 a.m. Breakfast 50[cents] fruit 25[cents]. We are going through a region of dissected lava flows, the mountains being abrupt, with broad fans of broken rock, gravel and sand occupying the valleys, sparsely covered with a desert flora. They sent us around over the new road to avoid a washout. At 11 a.m. we stopped at Parker, a new town in the copper region, where we got dinner. 112° + in the shade. Left Parker at 1:15 p.m. Reached A and C Jct. At 6 p.m. and waited there until 8 :15 for our engine to go and get fuel and for an extra engine to help up the grades to Prescott. Then we mad another, long stop soon afterwards. It has rained in the nearby mountains yesterday and today.
Ash Fork, Ariz., Sunday
July 31, 1910
Quite cool in early morning. Passed through mud south of here. We were stalled on a heavy grade at Cedar Glade and had to run way back and try again. Have passed lots of cedars this morning. Reached Ash Fork, Arizona at 8:45 a.m. Had a fine breakfast and got a better engine. Remained over an hour. Dined at Winslow at 1:40 p.m. Has been nice and cool all day. Did not go out to supper.
Santa Fe, N. Mex., Monday, Aug. 1, 1910.
Reached Lamy at 2:15 a.m. and found train waiting for us, so reached here at 3:30 a.m. Miss Seligman, who was on the train, piloted me to the Peerless, where I got a bath and slept until 8 a.m. Got breakfast, then went to School of American Archaeology where I was surprised to find Dr. Hewett, who said we would drive to camp tomorrow. Robbins arrived here last night. Very hot, bright day. Santa Fe lies in an erosion valley, the narrow, crooked strata radiating from the old plaza. The School of Archaeology is in an old Spanish building north of and fronting towards the plaza. The mesas are covered sparsely with cedars. Hotel $2.85. Mr. J. L. Nusbaum ((sic)), the official photographer of the school took me out on his motor cycle to see the town.
((Expenses Los Angeles to Santa Fe: Here follows a list of expenses, which I have not transcribed)).
Rained at noon and in evening. In the afternoon Nusbaum took me to quarry near town, where I found Spirifer, Productus, Myalina, crinoids etc. showing Lower Carboniferous age. Mr. Chapman, the pottery man, told me about the place. It is a blue limestone associated with variegated clay which is being used in brick making. Robbins and I spent the evening at Palace Hotel with Mr. Twitchell, of Las Vegas, who is writing a history of the southwest, based largely upon old Spanish documents for the early history, and U. S. War Department documents for the later history. Still raining at bedtime.
Santa Fe, N. Mex., Tuesday Aug. 2, 1910.
Up at 5 a.m. Nearly clear, cool. Breakfast at Coronado Cafe with Hewett, Robbins, and Nusbaum. A great many Indians about town and the women are much addicted to expensive black shawls. The Indians here are Pueblos, a composite race, about 25% dolichocephalic, 75% brachycephalic. The skulls from the old cliff dwellings are all dolichocephalic. The town is on the east border of Rio Grande basin, the camp on west border, about 25 miles NW of town in air line, 35 by wagon road. As we climbed the mesa from town we passed over red conglomerate like the Fountain dipping westerly about 5 to 10 degrees. Old sloping plain much dissected and covered with well rounded granitic boulders and gravel. Pinon and cedars cover the mesa. Started at 6:45 a.m. in 2 seated carriage with driver, Hewett, Robbins, Nusbaum, Jane Abbott and myself. Reached Buckman at 11:15. As we drove down a gulch toward Buckman on the left were horizontal sandstones capped by columnar basalt. Just before reaching Buckman there is apparently a neck from which the basalt flowed. A gulch has cut it in two. Crossed the Rio Grande at Buckman and began the climb out of canyon. N of Buckman tufa covers a basalt, but is said to be burned at bottom by basalt showing that it is older than the basalt. It is reddish and yellowish. We reached camp in the Rito de los Frijoles at 5 p.m., the team stopping on the rim of the canyon, whence we carried our baggage down the trail to camp. Chose 4 rooms in the old cliff ruins for our quarters and had the Indians carry our outfit up. Canyon wren singing over our heads. On trip saw night hawks, pinon jays, mourning doves, hummers etc. Also 2 cotton tails with brown or red spots just back of shoulder or on shoulder, and several () (spermophiles) (?) resembling the speckled on of Routt, Ca. (??)
Rito de los Frijoles, Wednesday Aug. 3, 1910.
Up at 5:30 a.m., breakfast at 6:30. Cloudy, My sleeping cave is 6 x 8 ft., ceiling 4 ft. in center, blackened by smoke of ancient fires. I went among the narrow leafed cottonwoods below camp and collected Ashmunella sp., Cochlicopa lubrica, Zonitoides arboreus, Pupilla, spp., Vallonia cyclophorella (abundant), Euconulus trochiformis and possibly other land snails.
The canyon runs approximately southeast and northwest. The walls here, so far as visible above the talus slope, are composed of a light and light colored ((sic)) tufa. On the south side the slope is steep, but without a vertical wall, and has pines and shrubs rather sparsely scattered over it from base to top. On the north side there is one high, nearly vertical wall, with a tendency to produce others less pronounced. A crosssection much generalized is thus: ((drawing in field book)).
The vertical wall is thickly dotted with holes in the tufa, probably partly eroded by wind, though doubtless formed in spots which were either soft or composed of more soluble material which has been partly dissolved by storm waters. The larger holes were greatly enlarged by the ancient inhabitants and dwellings of stone walls two to three or more stories in height were then built in front of them, with the usual small rooms about 8 x 8 ft. The walls have mostly crumbled away. Part of the debris has been cleared away by the workmen of the School of American Archaeology, so as to show the sizes and shapes of the first story rooms. Probably the same walls extended us ((sic - up?)) so as to make the rooms overhead correspond in shape and size with those beneath.
In the valley on N side of creek is a pueblo now being excavated. 60 rooms have been uncovered on the ground floor in about 1/4 of the ruin. Probably there were 250 on the ground floor and about 150 above. Unlike most community houses of this district, it is nearly circular. The only exit yet found is on the east side.
The slope of the stream bed and of the rim of the canyon and of the tops of the mesa are all about the same as that of the chief wall of tufa on the north side, so that the stream bed, base of the wall, top of wall and rim are approximately parallel. The base of the wall is more uneven than the top, owing to the fact that very narrow gulches dissect the wall, and where these open out into the canyon talus is wanting, while between gulches the talus creeps up the wall thus: There are trees and shrubbery on the slope of the north side, as on the south side, but of course none on the vertical walls. Possibly the difference between north and south side may be due partly to the vegetation covering.
Up creek about a mile where the creek cuts clear into the base of the bluff the channel has not been deepened more than 5 or six feet during the growth of trees 30 inches in diameter not standing on the banks of the channel. Cross section thus
((two small sketches in field book)) We measured the tree nearest the creek in the first section and found it 30 inches in diameter 4 ft. above ground. Age probably at least 300 or 400 years.
On the way back we noted the breezes blowing the light tufa dust about on the slopes. Probably the erosion id greatly aided by wind. The tufa contains myriads of small quartz crystals averaging perhaps 1/16 in. in diameter or less. In weathering out these crystals are preserved, the other material being reduced to a very fine condition and swept away at once and the quartz crystals, being also small, are easily carried away. Hence the deepening of the channel of the channel would progress more rapidly, except that the stream is so small and is kept overloaded during floods by debris swept in from the canyon walls. The stream at present can be stepped across easily.
Rained again at 5 p.m. Saw to date the following birds: Canyon wren 2 Arkansas goldfinch abundant Mourning dove common House wren ? 2, Western robin common, Thrush sp, Long crested jay 3. 4 birds resembling black-headed grosbeak. On the way back from up creak we found ant heaps composed almost entirely of small quartz crystals, and at on place the sand at the bottom of the gully was clear quartz sand. Very hot during most of day.
Rito de los Frijoles, Thursday, Aug 4, 1910.
Cool morning. Up at 5:30 a.m., breakfast at 6:30. I went below camp and collected mollusca. Searched for two hours and found only one colony of Ashmunellas, collecting two or three dozen within a radius of 10 feet. Those collected yesterday were also in one place, under cottonwood logs and sticks.
Bandelier says of this valley "From the southern edge of the Zino-ka-nash, or Mesa del Pajarito, we look down into the Rito as into a narrow valley several miles long and closed in the west by rocky ledges, over which the stream descends to the bottom lands of the Rito. Through these it flows for several miles as a gushing brook, enlivened by trout". (Papers of the Archaeological Institute of America, Amer. Series, IV, Final Rept. Pt. 2, p. 139-quoted in Bull. 32, Bur. Amer. Ethn. P.27 Jemez Plateau). There appears to be no fish now in the stream and the falls make it improbable that there ever were any. (See also, Adolf F. Bandelier's "Delight Makers", Dodd, Mead & Co. N.Y., copyright 1890, p.5).
“The entire formation of the chain [W of the Rio Grande] as far as it faces the Rio Grande, is volcanic, the walls of the gorges consisting generally of a friable white or yellowish tufa containing nodules of a black, translucent obsidian. The rock is so soft that in many places it can be scooped out or detached with the most primitive tools, or even with the fingers alone. Owing to this peculiarity the slopes exposes to the south and east [this should be south and west], whence most of the heavy rains strike them, are invariably abrupt and often even perpendicular; whereas the opposite declivities, though steep, still afford room for scanty vegetation." Delight Makers p. 1. ((comments in square brackets [ ] are by JH on Bandelier's text)). Perennial streams are few. Usually a rather flat area on one side, or the other, or both. The topography affords natural shelter and good hiding places from enemies, easily protected. ( El Rito de los Frijoles is called in the Queres dialect Tyuomyi. Gorge 6 mi, long, 20 mi. W of Santa Fe in direct line Delight Makers p.3) Tufa yellowish and white. Judge A. J. Abbott says water ceased to flow at one place in the creek at his house for a few hours lately. He lives at our camp. "Caves- together with the cavities formed by amygdaloidal chambers and crevices caused by erosion, they give the cliffs the appearance of a huge irregular honeycomb." Delight Makers p. 3 or 4.
Have seen several water snakes below camp. "Ginger" (Nathan) Dowell says he killed one rattlesnake in this canyon just above the Abbott ranch, the only one reported, Said to be abundant on the Rio Grande. Asked a young Indian about them. He said great big ones, circling his thumbs and fore fingers together to indicate a diameter of about 5 inches. But when we laughed at him, he contracted the circle very much.
Small lizards very abundant. Striped sparrow-like siskin with 2 yellowish wingbars
Western flycatcher? Doves Longcrested jay Young robins 4 Thrushes 2 Ark goldfinches common
House wren at cave entrance Canyon wren may be constantly heard Have heard towhees above camp.
Asked Santiago, and old Indian, about the larger mammals. Says he has not hunted and does not know them.
Dowell, who stays with the Abbotts, has hunted and trapped here. He says there are a few porcupines, badgers, mountain lions, bobcats and bears but no elk, mountain sheep, goats, bison, wolves, wolverines or lynx. Bison was never here, so far as known, though skins reached the region by exchange, probably. Coyotes are common, and both red and little gray foxes. No mink here but mink, otter and beaver on the Rio Grande. Bears are probably black bears only, though, as usual, Dowell talks of cinnamon. Deer occasional here, but more abundant further up in the mountains, coming down the valley in the autumn. Neither Santiago nor Dowel know the species, but from what the((y)) say and the character of the country it is probably the mule deer. Rained a little during the afternoon and evening.
Rito de los Frijoles, Friday, Aug, 5, 1910.
Up at 5:45, Cloudy. Breakfast at 6:30. Finished reading Bandelier's "Delight Makers". On p 296 he makes Shotaye tell about finding where a rattlesnake had been eaten. See yesterday's comments on snakes. There are several important elements in the origin of the cliffs here. It is a stream cut canyon. The bluffs are confined to the NE side of the canyon, being replaced on the SW side by a steep, rather uniform, slope (see under Aug. 3). Bandelier says it is thus in all the canyons of the region. Nusbaum confirms this. Bandelier suggests that the cliffs are formed by the beating of the heavy rains, which he says are prevailing from the direction which caused most of them to strike this side of the canyon. Probably however, the dry winds are nearly as important as the rains. Neither rain, nor wind, nor both, would produce such cliffs in a perfectly homogeneous material such as the tufa seems to be at first glance. Certainly the upper part of the cliff has been longer exposed to the attacks of storms and other atmospheric agencies than the lower part, for the attack began on the upper part as soon as the downward cutting of the stream began to form an incipient canyon, and has continued ever since, while the lateral erosion of the lower part could not have begun until the stream reached the lower level. Consequently in homogeneous material and in the absence of any special attack upon any part of the canyon, the widening of the canyon should have proceeded by equal recession of its walls progressively as the down cutting proceeded thus:
((drawing in field book.))
Instead of as it has, by unequal recession at the bottom thus: ((drawing in field book.))
The storms under such circumstances would cause the more rapid recession of the NE wall than the SW, but would not change its shape, as they would beat equally upon all portions of the NE wall. However, there are several, broad ill defined, rather irregular hard zones in the tufa, one of which is at the top of the nearly vertical cliff. These hard zones of course exist on both sided of the canyon. They are much reddened by iron oxides. The material below it is very yielding. If the storms beat more fiercely against the NE wall, they would weather the material on that side very rapidly without much affection the hard zone, and would have much less influence upon the SW wall. Consequently the tendency would be to produce a bluff on the NE side and none on the SW side. If the hard zone protecting the cliff were a massive, comparatively unjointed rock it would be undermined and great caverns formed under overhanging ledges as in the Mesa Verde districts thus: ((Drawing in field book)). The reason this does not occur in the Rito de los Frijoles is that the hard stratum forming the cap of the cliff is traversed by numerous vertical or nearly vertical cleavage planes, so that it keeps falling to the talus as rapidly as erosion of the main face of the cliff progresses. It is probable, also, that the SW, facing NE, and hence suffering less from heat and consequence evaporation, is somewhat better protected by vegetation, which would serve to hold the debris on the slope and thus aid in preventing the formation of a cliff. This difference In vegetation does not as readily appear to the eye as it does in many similar situations in the semi arid west, but even a slight difference, continued through thousands of years, would exert a great aggregate influence upon erosion. The "tent rocks" or cones at the base of the cliffs have an origin similar to that of the cliffs, protecting cap in such cases being small masses of resistant material instead of continuous, approxmately horizontal zones.
The surface of the cliff itself has the appearance of being a thin, hard coat backed soft material, so that where a hole breaks through the surface weathering by action of wind proceeds more rapidly within and forms a cavity whose interior diameter is greater than that of the entrance. It is not unlikely that the hardening was accomplished by water descending along former cleavage planes and is now going on along invisible cleavage planes back of the present face of the cliff. These hard surfaces are irregular and largely responsible for the irregular appearance of the face of the cliff. There are many places where crevices etc. show the deposition of thin films of material. One tunnel - nearly vertical ? is seen on a vertical cliff, worn by water. It may disappear before many years by the breaking down of the face of the cliff. In the tufa there are many fragments of hard, much darker rock of various kinds. No rain tonight, partly cloudy all day, clear tonight. Set 9 mouse traps and 4 steel traps at dusk. Rito de los Frijoles, Saturday. Aug 6, 1910.
Up at 5:15. Perfectly clear morning. In nine mousetraps there were 4 deer mice and bait gone from 2. Put up mice in forenoon. Get archaeological map of Jemez Plateau, New Mexico, Forest Service, U.S. Dept. Agri., 1906. Went up creek in the afternoon and shot one each of the following: Brewer sparrow, pygmy nuthatch, w. wood pewee ?. and hummingbird. Shot latter on wing with 44 caliber shot barrel of game getter. Fired five shots, got 4 birds. Saw a red tailed hawk ? ((see page 106)) which we have heard every day on the cliffs in the canyon. Also one red-shafted flicker and a woodpecker with white below, black above white stripe down the back and on head. In evening heard an owl like the great horned owl but not so hoarse. No rain today, hot afternoon.
Rito de los Frijoles, N.M.,
Sunday, Aug. 7, 1910.
Bright, clear, warm morning. Arose at 6:15. Breakfast at 7 a.m. Yesterday afternoon we visited a cavern a mile or two up the canyon which was cut by the wind in the hard cap zone which caps the cliffs. At the base of this zone there we found several narrow beds of still harder material distinctly separating the cap rock from the cliff tufa and at the same time forming a shelf for the large semi-circular cavern which the wind has eroded in the lower part of the cap rock itself thus
((drawing in field book))
The cavern is reached by several long ladders recently constructed in order to excavate it. There is a large round kiva excavated in the edge of the shelf and several small caves in the wall of the cavern. Corn stalks well preserved are found covered up in the floor. That is the only large natural cavern in the region and reminds one of the Mesa Verde caverns. At 8 a.m. most of the whites from camp went down the canyon to the Rio Grande. Some turned back at the first fall. I did not go clear to the river but stopped just below the lower fall. Very little water is running at the falls, and in many places the creek bed is quite dry, the water flowing through the sand. Section below lower fall, W side, where canyon runs South:
((Drawing in field book))
This is not drawn accurately nor to scale. At the two falls the canyon is very narrow and is cut mostly through the basalt and some sandstones. The tufa above recedes considerably from the narrow canyon, thus
((drawing in field book))
The sandstones are coarse, in places almost conglomeratic, yellowish brown and brown. The basalt varies on weathered surfaces from light gray through dark gray to nearly black and from fine to coarse. It usually weathers with holes on outside up to half an inch in diameter. It is certainly later than either the tufa or the sandstone, as it is intruded into and through both in a very intricate way - that is the main body of basalt. As the sandstone contains many angular fragments of basalt, however, often 3 to 6 inches in diameter, it is quite evident that there is older basalt in the region, perhaps partly covered by the sandstone. There are probably several flows. At the top of the lower fall (the fall itself being a wall of basalt) is a sandstone about 75 ft. thick. There are occasional angular basalt pebbles all through it, but they are quite abundant in the upper 25 feet. Section looking up stream at lower falls
((drawing in field book))
The sandstone dips S 10°, approximately the same as the slope of the creek below the falls. The lower falls is said to be 90 ft and the upper one 60 ft. of sheer descent. Then above the upper are heavy rapids. As the stream has doubtless been completely dry at times as far as surface water is concerned, and fish could not get up from the river, it is probable that there have been no fish here for centuries and perhaps never. (see note further on). The sandstone have evidently been deposited by rather evenly flowing but strong currents, not al all tumultuous. The stratification is very even but very pronounced, showing no crossbedding, no cutting and filling, containing coarse gravel in many places and as above mentioned large angular blocks of basalt. In places the colors of the sandstones at the contacts with the basalts indicate burning. For example, on east side of canyon just below the lower fall we have this section ((drawing in field book)). n other places no such effect is visible. There are some water worn pebbles about 2 inches in diameter in upper part of the s.s. of material other than basalt. Upper part of basalt which forms the falls is much broken and has not reddened the overlying s.s., though likely an intrusive sheet, but the underlying portion of s.s. is reddened in a thin layer. Just below the upper falls where the sandstone disappears, the red band at its top is several feet thick. The sandstone is truncated thus, as best shown on the east side ((drawing in field book)) At noon we ate lunch, then took a refreshing bath in the pools below the upper fall. I started for camp at 2, Robbins having gone to the river before lunch and returned alone to where I was working at the falls. Almost every moment pebbles started from the cliffs by the breezes, fall to the bottom of the canyon. At the upper fall there is an approximately vertical contact of the basalt with tufa, thus: ((drawing in field book)). I believe that the source of the basalt is in the canyon just above the upper fall, where numerous vertical and some horizontal contacts with the tufa are seen and in one place the tufa immediately overlying the basalt is much burned. The main body of the basalt is certainly much younger than the tufa and sandstone and probably all that we have seen today except the fragments in the sandstone. It would be interesting to know the origin of the latter.
Reached camp at 4 p.m. Judge Abbott says that a man named Otero in Santa Fe claims to have caught lots of trout in the creek here, but as Otero also says a man living in the canyon dug a well it is probable that the creek had dried up, so I doubt the story.
Hot day, no rain. Rito de los Frijoles, N. Mex. Monday, Aug 8, 1910.
Bright, hot morning. Started up canyon at 8:15, returning about 9:30. Shot one mountain chickadee, one chipmunk and what appears to be the female of some species of towhee. The bird I shot Saturday, which I took for a western wood pewee, spoiled before I could skin it, so I am trying to skeletonize it. It is common here. Following is a description: Length 150 m. m. Tail and wings black, head blackish, back blackish gray, Secondaries with very narrow white anterior margins, tertials with wider white margins forming conspicuous wing bars, Below gray, with delicate wash of yellow on sides or in front of anus, under tail coverts white. The big hawk which I took for redtail is brown-spotted beneath, perhaps Swainson's. Two birds near our sleeping caves I feel sure are Say's phoebes.
The depth of the valley here runs from 400 to 500 ft. The Rio Grande at the mouth of the Rito is perhaps 500 ft. lower than camp. The N. rim presents a roundly serrated appearance, owing to lateral gulches which dissect it, while the south rim is a simple slope parallel with the stream bed. N rim thus:
((drawing in field book))
Just above camp the bluff on the N side is 90', but in most places it is about 70 or less from the top of the talus to the top of the cliff. The S. wall of the canyon has a general slope of 40° from base to top, mostly talus, but with broken rocky walls in one or two places. Up stream the tendency to form a cliff on the S. side corresponding to that on the N side is more marked.
There is a wren here which is very plain colored, grayish, with no spots below, slight brownish tinge on back, tail feathers and primaries obscurely banded with darker color. Also one which I believe to be the house wren, with more reddish.
In evening an Indian boy brought me a chipmunk which he had killed with a rock, Wanted a quarter for it, but when I told him they were too common to buy he gave it to me.
Sprinkled a little toward evening and again at dusk. Creek very low today. Rito de los Frijoles, N.M. Tuesday, Aug. 9, 1910.
Partly cloudy this morning, More water in the creek this morning. Robbins and I started up stream just after breakfast, about 7 a.m., with an Indian boy to carry our lunch etc. and he took his shotgun. I took the 22-44 "Game Getter". Santiago Sanchez. This is his signature.
About 2 miles up we found a fine colony of Ashmunella, with Cochlicopa, Vallonia, Pyramidula and Zonitoides under narrow leafed cottonwood logs. At first spruces, about 1/2 mile further up, heard a pine squirrel but could not get a shot at him, nor even a good look. Saw a pair of sparrow hawks, probably desert form, and their nest but did not get a shot.
Bear tracks were reported here by Indians yesterday.
The canyon soon narrowed very much, becoming a deep, narrow, rocky gorge, the walls mostly of hard cap tufa For a long ways the creek is cutting beneath the cap on the NE side, forming an overhang of several feet. Occasionally the talus has forced the creek over so that it has formed a similar wall on the S.W. side. Further up the walls on both sides are practically vertical, with only a narrow bottom over which the stream meanders, from 25 to 50 or 75 ft. wide.
Stopped for lunch at 11:45 where the creek nearly reaches the top of the lower cap rock and affords a way out of the canyon on the north side. We could get out almost anywhere on the south side. Started on at 12:30.
Sometime back, perhaps 4 miles above camp, we found obsidian fragments in the tufa. Numerous obsidian fragments in the creek bed and all along the cliffs have probably weathered from the cliffs. The fragments in the tufa and in the creek bed have no sharp or angular edges.
We went out on the north side. On way back , coming down the north mesa, we crossed two very deep narrow canyons, which were very difficult to cross on account of vertical walls on both sides, thus: ((drawing in field book))
Crosses or headed several smaller one and finally turned down one which enters the Frijoles canyon just above the ceremonial cavern, a mile or so above camp. This gulch also was deep and narrow, we crossed it and found a fair trail on east side. Saw a mule deer (doe) and Robbins shot at it with the shotgun, but of course without effect. Saw deer signs several times. There are cattle and horses in the worst part of the canyon. Reached camp at 4:30 just as it began to rain softly. The rain continued until 9. p.m., at times coming down lively. Up canyon the tent rocks show clearly that the protecting caps which formed them were fragments of the general hard cap rock which had fallen to the slopes and lodged there.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. Mex. Wednesday, Aug. 10, 1910.
Partly cloudy morning. Put up the skin of a squirrel caught by an Indian, He had skinned it in trapper style, without leg bones and cut down breast instead of down abdomen, and without measurements, but I made a very fair skin of it. Before noon I climbed to the rim rock on N.E. side collecting specimens of the tufa all the way. I can see no differentiation in composition or structure, but the upper part is much harder and darker colored, with a tendency towards pink and red everywhere. However, between the cap of the cliff and the next ledge above there is a white zone perhaps 20 or 30 ft thick showing on both sides of the canyon. One or two big pieces of tufa had a metallic ring when struck, but were quite soft except a thin outer coat. Angular fragments of older rocks are included in the tufa all the way up. I collected some of these. The harder weathered coating on the tufa, both upper and lower, is very thin, perhaps from 1/8 to 1/2 inch, not usually well enough defined for measurement. From the rim of the canyon there is a fine view of the mesa S.W. of the canyon, with the mountains in the background. Spent most of afternoon in cave, but set 19 traps before supper. It rained fitfully during first half of afternoon, but did not amount to much.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Aug. 11, 1910. Thursday.
Hot, bright forenoon, raining in mts. before noon. Put up 3 deer mice skins, one squirrel and 1 chipmunk in forenoon, then set traps and put out poison on the mesa. In afternoon I skinned a squirrel and a chipmunk brought in by the Indians, then took a cool refreshing bath in the creek. It threatened rain during afternoon and did rain in the mountains. At 6:45 p.m. a hard thunder shower came down the gulch, lasting for over an hour, with some hail.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Friday, Aug. 12, 1910.
Nearly clear this morning and the high water in the creek has nearly subsided. A wash basin, cup and bucket sitting at the foot of the cliff each contained about a quarter of an inch of debris washed down by the rain, and the fine material which had covered the cut steps in the trail to our caves to a depth of several inches was all washed out, leaving the steps clear. With such storms cutting the cliffs I wonder that they have not been eroded more since the cliff dwellings were abandoned. Of course the structures erected in front of the caves had to be first destroyed before the attack on the caves could begin. Nearly all the traps were sprung, probably by the rain or hail. Nothing in them. I hunted on the mesa for a while and collected two horned toads, a pinon jay, a bush tit ? and a woodpecker. Soon became partly cloudy. Saw lots of mt. chickadees, m. doves, pinon jays, woodpeckers, pigmy nuthatches, 1 sparrow hawk, several bush tits?, one western nighthawk and several swallows apparently violet-green, though I am not sure. In late afternoon I set some more traps at the rim of the canyon.
Sprinkled a little in middle of day but very hot most of day.
Rito de los Frijoles,
Saturday, Aug. 13, 1910.
Bright, hot morning. Found only one deer mouse in traps at head of canyon. Skinned 2 squirrels and a chipmunk brought in by an Indian. At noon it rained and at intervals in afternoon. The squirrels are all terribly fat, while the chipmunks are quite lean. Dr. Hewett is in Santa Fe, expected back tonight. Dr. Kinnear, of St. Louis, left camp Thursday, leaving still in camp the Abbotts, the Goebels of Santa Fe, Mr. and Mrs. Henry, of Denver, Miss May, of Denver, the Mosleys, Messrs. Beauregard, Goldsmith, Adams, Judd, Robbins and myself.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Sunday, Aug. 14, 1910.
Dr, Hewett, Mr. Goldsmith's brother, and Mr. Rollins, a Los Angeles artist, arrived last night. At 9 a.m. a crowd of us started for the Stone Lions and Painted Cave. Climbed out of canyon on S. side on trail just above camp. At the rim the slope opposite (N. side) has only 2 % slope. The N. precipice here has a number of parallel bands a few inches thick, of hard rocks, and the terraces show well above. We started over the old Navajo trail which crosses the Jemez Mts., going nearly West. Saw tufted ear squirrel, 1 cliff swallow and numerous Sialia m. bairdii, a woodpecker with much pure white, a swift or swallow very white beneath and on sides and on cheeks and apparently a narrow black streak down the throat; a towhee (spurred?); At 11:30 we struck the Cochiti trail, which cuts the Navajo trail at right angle, and turned south on it down a gulch into the Alamo Canyon, where we lunched with water. Here is a bluff on the south side, with pink tufa below and light colored tufa above, very hard tufa at the top. Canyon deep and narrow. Here saw a bird with white wing tips about the size of Clarke's crow.
Started on at 1:40 p.m. Where we got our first glimpse of the Pajarito Plateau and the Rio Grande Valley I found the slope of the plateau to be 2° toward the Rio Grande. It slopes also down the Rio Grande Valley, but I got no measurements. Went down the Colorado nearly to the Painted Cave and camped just where the water disappeared stopping at 5 p.m. Rather warm evening. The canyon here flows nearly south.
Heard canyon wren and saw several Rocky Mt. hairy woodpeckers at camp before night. Beautiful night.
Painted Cave, N. M., Monday,Aug. 15, 1910.
Up at 5 a.m. Started down to the cave at 6:15. Most of the pictures are in red. A horse, 2 bears and a jay are in black. The cavern is in the cap tufa up the cliff, as at the ceremonial cavern in the Frijoles Canyon. There are figures of men, hands, serpent, elk, a star, 2 churches surmounted by a cross, mt. lion, perhaps coyote, and one somewhat resembles moose. Men are all front view, most of the animals side view. I think there is one clear front view of an elk, and a front view of a flat horned animal muck like caribou which has been done within 2 years according to Dr. Hewett.
Saw canyon wren (see white throat), pinon jay, long crested jay, Townsend solitaire.
The cliffs in the upper canyon are short and about equally distributed on the two sides, the canyon running nearly S. Just before reaching the cave the canyon turns to E., and the high cliff in the soft tufa with cap tufa appears on the N as at the Frijoles with only a 20 ft cliff on the south entirely in the cap rock.
Back to camp at 8 a.m., Santiago and Hemyada (Indians) having started back to the Frijoles with the pack burros before we reached camp, so we kept right on. Where the trail leaves the Colorado Canyon there are massive red sandstones much resembling the finer horizons of the Fountain in northern Colorado. Here saw bluebirds, could see no reddish on back, but they were in a shadow.
The stone lion altar is a very few hundred rods from the trail, and is thus: ((drawing in field book)). The lions are about 6 ft long, tail and all, each. Vandals have ruined them. Started on at 10 a.m. saw 2 gray tufted ear squirrel and shot one. Reached lunch grounds in Alamo Canyon at 11:30. Santiago says he saw a bear track. Camp bird (Clarke crow) about camp, where I thought I saw one yesterday. Found 2 owl skeletons and one jay or Clarke crow skeleton hanging on a wire. I took them. Reached camp in the Rito de las Frijoles at 3:45 and put up squirrel skin and solitaire skeleton. Very tired from long walk, hard climbing and especially the excessive heat of the afternoon, Retired very early.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Tuesday, Aug 16, 1910.
Cool and cloudy most of forenoon. Identified a female spurred towhee and a Woodhouse jay. Habits indicate that all the crestless jays here are Woodhouse instead of pinons.
Afternoon very hot and bright. Got two fine lizards from the excavation but one got away. After dark the owl barked on the cliff just over our caves. I could not see it but took a shot at the sound and he flew up from near the point at which I shot. Its notes very closely resemble the barking of a dog with not a very deep tone.
Rito de los Frijoles N.M., Wednesday Aug. 17, 1910.
Bright but cool early in the morning. Went down the canyon with Miss Way and Mr. Robbins "abirding". Saw only robins, long crested jays, pinon or Woodhouse jays, mt chickadees, lots of pygmy nuthatches, abundant Arkansas goldfinches, and several dozen hummingbirds. The hummers were hovering over a large patch of Cleome ((?)). We collected 4. They do not appear to fit the description of any species. Returned at 10 a.m. and put up the hummers by removing the viscera and filling the abdominal cavity with arsenic and alum, putting some also down the throat. Getting hot. The Ark. goldfinches are feeding mostly on sunflowers. The owls here, according to descriptions of habits and calls, must be the spotted owl. It sits on cliffs or in trees and barks two notes, a slight pause, then two more etc thus: kwack-kwack; kwack-kwack, etc. but more like the bark of a dog than those letters indicate, it being impossible to reproduce the overtones by symbols. Saw cliff swallows.
In afternoon I went upstream. Shot two lizards (swifts) but they were badly mutilated by the shot. Also shot a red shafted flicker and a chipmunk and skeletonized them.
Owl hooted again in evening, not in pairs of hoots, as I recollected last night's performance, but several in succession.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Thursday, Aug. 18, 1910.
Cloudy morning. Robbins, Santiago (an Indian) and I started on horseback up the north rim of the canyon at 7:30 a.m., then over the trail leading to Buckman. About two miles up the trail we killed a tufted ear squirrel. Saw lots of pigmy nuthatches and chestnut backed bluebirds, several sparrow hawks, Rocky Mt. hairy woodpeckers, mt. chickadees, long crested jays, one bird of nuthatch like habits with apparently white head, nearly as large as a bluebird (Rocky Mountain Nuthatch). At Buckman Sawmill, at the foot of the mts., we saw a sparrow hawk chasing a flicker for some time, unsuccessfully. Here we turned up an old trail into a gulch leading up into the mts., and killed two pine squirrels, which are common here. At 12:30 we found a little water and had lunch of tufted ear squirrel ham, bread and butter, and coffee. Chipmunks common here also. One W. red-tailed hawk near where we lunched.
In this canyon the upper tufa is roughly and irregularly laminated, presenting a gneissoid appearance somewhat like horizontally stratified rocks at a distance, but quite evidently not stratified. Nearly clear at noon.
Collected some mollusks, including 3 specimens of Ashmunella and 2 dead Vitrina alaskana. Started on at 2 :30 and soon shot two more pine squirrels, which are abundant here, but quit shooting because we have enough for supper. Reached the divide at 2:45 p.m. but no water, so came back down the gulch 1/4 mile and camped in grove of big aspens. Robbins took the rifle and went after deer, and Santiago went after turkeys and grouse with the shotgun. Both returned at 6 p.m. with nothing, Santiago shot at a turkey and missed it. Indians are seldom good shots. I shot the squirrels with the "Game Getter", 44 calibre, #8 shot. Robbins reports deer tracks plentiful on the ridge.
Fine large aspens predominate at camp and for a mile or two below.
Cloudy and threatening at bedtime. Turned in a little before 8 p.m.
Near Valle Grande, W of Buckman Mill, N. M., Friday Aug. 19, 1910.
It rained hard during early part of night and fitfully all night. Robbins and I had a good tarpaulin and slept dry. Santiago kept reasonably dry under a tree. Up at 5:15 a.m. in a dense fog. a building near sawmill yesterday.
In passing sawmill we met a Mexican with a wagon load of cantaloupes and fruit. Santiago had a dime, the only money in the outfit, and the cantaloupes were 20[cents] each, so we compromised on half-ripe peaches. Collected salamanders and snails, etc., under the aspens. Only found one dead Ashmunella in an hour, numbers of Pupilla, a few Euconulus and probably Zonites. Snails not common.
We had a fine view of the nuthatch like bird which has puzzled me. It is nearly as large as an English sparrow, white below and on sides of head, giving it the appearance of a white headed bird from the front. Back probably bluish gray, tail rounded, tipped with white band as in Lark Sparrow. Noisy (Rocky Mt. Nuthatch) ((this parenthetical statement added later; color of ink is different)).
After breakfast Robbins started out with the rifle on the S side of the gulch after deer. At 8 a.m. Santiago started down stream with the shotgun after turkeys and grouse and I went up the slope on the north side with the "Game Getter". Long crested jays abundant, Rocky Mt. hairy woodpecker common, chickadees common; say several Say's spermophiles, flickers, house wren, hawk with light throat and upper breast, a darker zone below formed by dark transverse bars and barred wings, about size of Swainson's hawk.
Our camp is near the head of a gulch just across the divide E from a point about 2 miles below the head of the Valle Grande. The latter is one of the most beautiful valleys I have ever seen, entirely devoid of trees in the lowlands, but trees coming down the mountain slopes on all sides in dense conifer forests and ending abruptly where the slopes become more gentle. A stream meanders through it. There are lots of cattle and 2 big flocks of sheep to be seen from the slopes. All the open park-like places in the forests on the mountains are covered with fine grass.
I have concluded that Robbins' "deer signs" are all mad by sheep. I have seen no unmistakable deer tracks.
At the divide I saw three turkey vultures. Turning N, I soon found a flock of 20 or 30 turkeys in dense spruce timber. Tried them with the little gun, but without success, so turned back reaching camp at 12:45. As there was no one in camp I cooked my dinner and ate it. Saw gray headed juncos and crossbills up on top of the mountain. Obsidian flakes are found, scattered all over the mountain sides, as at Rito de los Frijoles.
Santiago returned at 2:30 with 7 dusky grouse. The I took the shotgun and went back after the turkeys, but they were wild and I failed, and returned at 6 p.m. I heard crows near camp, and Robbins says he saw several and a campbird. Heard poorwills mournful song (2 birds apparently) near camp all evening.
E of Valle Grande, N. M.
Saturday, Aug 20, 1910
Up early, breakfast at 5:30. Robbins started after turkeys, where I was yesterday.
Santiago, our Indian guide and cook, is an old native priest speaks Spanish well and English rather brokenly. Says old Indians tell about great herds of buffalo, how they used to go off, get buffalo skins to make blankets blankets and sell them at good prices. Now all gone. I explained that white men's deadly methods destroyed them.
I went down gulch and in half hour shot 4 pine squirrels, then came back and got one Say spermophile. Found Oreohelix sp. in mixed conifer and aspen grove.
Robbins returned at 8:40 a.m., having seen no turkeys. At 9:40 we ate grouse lunch. At 10:10 I started down trail on foot hunting squirrels, leaving Robbins and Santiago to follow on horseback. Bright morning but cloudy now. Rained on way down.
Saw Clarke's crow and thrust without rufous tail in gulch. Say's spermophile found clear out to mesa. Reached mesa at 12:15. Warblers just outside of canyon, bluish gray, yellow rump, and apparently white band on end of rounded tail. Gray headed junco abundant at edge of mesa at old sawmill with a few lark sparrows. Also red tailed hawk and two badgers with very reddish hair.
Reached camp at 4 p.m. and cleaned the grouse and squirrels. Took a very refresh ing bath at creek at dusk and retired at 8:15, very tired. Took one of the large nuthatches on the mesa near camp. It is Rocky Mt. nuthatch. They report 2 adult baldheaded eagles, with snow white heads, passing over camp yesterday.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Sunday, Aug.21,1910
Did not arise until 6:20 this morning. Bright hot morning. Spent forenoon taking care of the skins taken on our trip. In afternoon I wrote letters and worked on the report on birds and mammals of the region, In evening, Judd and Beauregard returned from Santa Fe, and Mr. Harrington, the linguist, came with them. Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Monday, Aug 22, 1910
Bright hot morning. Had a talk with Harrington about some proposed field work in the Colorado River near Needles next winter. Hope I may go.
At 8:20 I went up on the south mesa and started down the old trail, reaching the rim of the Rio Grande Canyon at 10:30, very hot and tired. Saw few birds and no mammals. A few bluebirds, 4 white throated swifts piñon or Woodhouse jays, small sparrows, 1 nighthawk, 1 rock wren which I took for identification.
Saw coyote tracks and dung at various places on trail. In places trail worn to a depth of 6 or 8 inches in the tufa.
Both walls of deep, narrow Rio Grande Canyon where I reached it are basalt, but the vertical contact on the N side is only a short distance from the rim as shown in lateral gulches. Canyon opens to a wide green valley a few miles down.
Started back at 11 a.m. travelling slowly and resting occasionally on account of the extreme heat.
No rock pines on lower part of mesa, only piñons and cedars, rock pines coming in some distance up the mesa. At the old pueblo on the rim above camp which has been excavated there are implements of mica schist, quartzite etc. which must have been brought from some distance.
Reached camp at 2 p.m., exhausted from steady walking in intense heat. Rained in mountains, as it does every day, but we have had none here for a long time. Set traps up canyon half a mile.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Tuesday, Aug. 23, 1910
Had 2 deermice only in traps. Ginger Dowell caught a coyote at camp and Robbins and I skinned and skeletonized it. Rained hard at 1 p.m. In afternoon 11 people arrived in camp, including Frank Springer, the paleontologist, and Mr. Loomis, public librarian of Los Angeles. Rito de los Frijoles, N. M. Wednesday, Aug 23 ((sic)), 1910
Rather hazy morning, not so hot as yesterday. Spent some time looking over material taken from the ruins. In implements basalt of course predominates. A little tufa was used. A very few pieces of mica schist and at least one piece which looks like gneiss have been found. Some rubbing stones seem to be of quartzite and perhaps some are quartz. Thick flakes of selenite occur, which may have been used for ceremonial purposes, or perhaps for closing the holes or window openings of the rooms, as was done by the Pueblo Indians when whites first visited the Southwest. No nearby source for such materials is known and some or all must have come from far away. Some of the pottery may be nearly pure clay, some contains many small mica flakes, largely composed of mica, in fact, and in a few heavy pieces small quartz grains occur. The latter point clearly to tufa origin. Possibly the fine debris from weathered tufa was mixed with clay or some other substance to make the paste. The source of the clay and mica is undiscovered, but it may be and probably is distant. At nine o'clock I conducted a field excursion in geology explaining the geological history of the canyon and mesa. Clear and warm by 10 a.m. I experimented with tufa and included fragments in water. The igneous inclusions sink instantly, the light tufa very slowly, especially the very light pieces which look like an older tufa included in the new. In the cliffs no assortment whatever occurs. I do not believe it could have been deposited in water. Why have this canyon and the Rio Grande Canyon been cut through basalt in places instead of along the vertical contact? Are prevailing winds from the south. Judge Abbott says south winds passing over canyon produce an eddy, so that they blow toward his house from the north. This would suck out soft material on north side and affect cliff. Also says snow does not remain on N side at all. Perhaps no frost in vertical fissures to topple cliff over on that side, while good freeze on S side, as he says snow has laid there 2 months at a time. Dr. Chas. F Lummis says he saw and caught trout in the creek here about 20 years ago (1891) and that then there were certainly many pools not now seen. Judge Abbott says the same of Otero Went down creek looking for snakes but did not see any. Have seen none since the first week here. Bats seen the first two or three nights but none since. Thrushes have apparently disappeared. Found one Succinea avara, but I put a leaf hopper in the bottle with it and the hopper hopped out, carrying the Succinea with him. This is the only Succinea found on the trip. Abbott says 2 rattlesnakes have been killed in the valley in 2 years, and he saw a big bull snake near house a day or two ago. Also says scaled partridge was killed here recently and pin squirrel found sometimes. Misses May and Friarmareca say they saw a badger this side of Water Canyon Monday. Mt. sheep heads are found in the ruins and catfish bones have been found in some ruins of the region, according to Hewett. Mr. John Adams says he saw a turkey vulture on rim of canyon at camp a day or two ago. In evening I gave a talk at the library tent on the zoology of the canyon.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M.
Thursday Aug. 24 ((sic)) 1910
[[The notes for this day and the one following have been gone over at a later date with a green pencil with "X"s and check marks as if he was tabulating what he wanted to include in a document. It is obvious that he was writing down impressions of the Indian informants]]
Foggy morning, cool, east wind. Forenoon with Harrington, Miss Friarmareca and 3 Indians getting names and ideas about birds and mammals. They seem to have very definite ideas about animals, with names for all parts, as bills, feet, claws, whiskers, hair, feathers footprints etc.
Hummingbird – they distinguished male and female correctly, say not found down in Rio Grande valley but confined to mountainous tainous districts.
Pine Squirrel – they say found higher up in tall slender trees tapering gradually toward the top, not down among the rock pines etc. Doubtless mean spruces and firs, which is accurate, though they do occur sparsely in pines below spruce belt in winter.
Ground squirrel – good to eat, found all over cliffs in canyon and everywhere. Shed in April or may, hair begins to thicken in July – clearly a mistake. Don't use hair or skin. Now gets "nice hair, fix up for winter". Does great damage to fruit and gets into their food. Live about rocks, in holes not in trees, but climb trees.
Deermouse – distinguished adult and nearly grown young # 22-23, but thought the bluish gray specimens were male and those with more reddish tinge female. Did not of course correctly distinguish sexes by color. Get young in Spring at same time as horse and cows. Same with squirrels. Gives young milk.
Woodrat – blue gray like deer mouse above, white below, tail round and short haired. Gather piñon nuts in nest for winter.
Jumping mice(probably pocket mouse) – yellowish above, white below, Long hind limbs, short forelegs, smaller than deermouse. Also one about size of chipmunk. Prairie Dog – at Valle Grande and San Ildefonso
Big whitish rats living at Ojo Caliente probably old individuals. Smell like skunk.
Skunk – striped black down middle, white stripes on side of black stripe.
Porcupine – Back in mts. sometimes in fields below, eat bark of trees
Pocket gopher – described making holes, carry dirt in pockets, push out, then cover over.
Tufted ear squirrel – lives in 'by' rock pine. Seem to have correct ideas of anatomy
Mole and shrew – described to them, but did not seem to know either.
Tufted ears have special name on squirrel.
Badger – described well. Told of badger getting angry and catching man by trousers and holding on until dragged long way to river.
Bears – Describe white, yellow, brown and black, Two kinds of white ones, one very large, one small. Describe stroke of forepaw. Say spermophile – Big chipmunk, live under wood, not in trees, but same name as pine squirrel. Live in mts. where pine squirrel lives
Little chipmunk – Live in rocks and trees in holes, live everywhere, canyons, mesa, mts., and everywhere.
Deer – 2 kinds- describe 2 kinds with same horns and color, but differ in length of tail.
No elk here – Two of them have seen elk in Colorado, red brown.
Pupilla and Ashmunella – recognized by name, but confuse with Zonitoides or Vitrina, Vallonia etc.
Lizard – swift – not eaten, not poison, live in ground everywhere, not bite. Snakes smaller than.
Big lizard – scales edged with black, bite, poison, have medicine, All old men say bad when they bite. Live under rocks. Snake swallows them
Horned toad – not bite. Do not eat them. Not used, Snake swallow them, snake swells, bursts, horned toad comes out alive.
The apparent fog is evidently fine dust, as it is not moist, does not smell like snake and the wind is blowing. Judge A. J. Abbott says road runner occurs on the mesas not far from camp.
Spent most of afternoon packing up. Has been cool all day and quite cool in evening.
Rito de los Frijoles, N. M.
Friday, Aug, 25 ((sic)), 1910
Cold night and cold and hazy this morning. Dowell and Adams say scaled partridge comes into the canyon in big flocks. Showed them pictures for identification.
The Indians seem honest. We have left numerous taxidermy tools, traps etc., which would attract them , especially the boys, around loose all the time , and have missed nothing.
Sent off the trunks and 2 boxes of specimens to Buckman by mule team with Indian driver at 7:30 a.m., trunks to be expressed from Buckman to Santa Fe and boxes to Boulder.
Abel Sanchez ((in different handwriting)). 10 years old. This is his signature. Says he cannot write except this. Continued linguistics work with Indians. They say in curing skin first dry it in sun. The wash blood away with warm water. Then dry again in the sun. Then boil brain in water and break it up, rather thin solution, thin enough to pour, and wash skin inside with solution when hair on, when cured without hair, use it on outside too. Then hand in sun to dry and leave it out in air for two nights and days, "soak" in air. Then to make soft, put in cold water again and soak, then fasten one end to stick or tree and twist from other end to squeeze water out. Then hang in sun and begin to work by pulling back and forth from all sides until dry to soften, whether hair on or not. Without hair takes one day to soften, with hair takes 2 days. Keep on working until soft.
Long crested jay – do not note that crest is lowered for flying.
Chestnut backed bluebird – found in mts., not in canyon. Correct.
Red shafted flicker – picks into wood for "worms" to eat, and makes hole for nest, but not observed on ground or eating ants.
Recognize picture of junco as winter bird.
Red wing blackbird – down Rio Grande, build nests in grass that grows in water, Distinguish females color. Eaten by Indians
Yellow head blackbird – In Rio Grande valley only in winter, same places as redwing. Eaten by Indians.
Canyon wren – on cliff, song whistle in descending scale.
Some other wren – described as jumping about rocks, pointed to picture of winter wren, possibly mean house wren or rock wren.
Western red-tailed hawk – they note colors, tail, scream etc. Hawks not eaten
Turkey vulture – red head, no "hair" on head, lives on dead meat, not catch live animals, found in mts., not eaten.
Mourning dove – describe calls and wing whistles, good to eat
One Indian has been in California and describes California Condor, bigger than eagle and turkey.
When I imitated call of mourning dove in discussing it, one of the old Indians started the rain song, but in answer to questions they seemed to have no rain tradition in connection with it. Report frogs in water and flatter frogs (toads) jumping on land.
Ignacio says that Indians here all use same language, but from different places, as Santa Clara and San Ildefonso, pronounce slightly different, as "white men from different places do".
Describe mockingbird by colors, and say it sings songs of other birds. When I said "mockingbird" he instantly recognized the name as one he had heard applied by whites.
Describe W yellowthroat by habit and song and recognize picture.
Dowell says that La. Tanager comes here in migration and that coons come up from the Rio Grande.
Hodge, of the Bureau of Ethnology, arrived late in the afternoon and in the evening we all had a conference about the form of our report and its publication. Retired at 10 p.m.
Rito de los Frijoles, N.M.
Aug, 27, 1910. Saturday
Up at 5 a.m. and Robbins and I with Mrs. Goldsmith and one of her sons, started for Santa Fe by carriage. Bright and warm. To north of the road as we came down hill to Buckman, in gulch, there is a fine exposure of columnar basalt. Along the road here is also a boulder deposit extending far up the hillside, including same material as is found in form of artifacts in the Frijoles ruins and may be the source of the latter. Saw no mica schist.
Reached Buckman at 10 a.m., bright and hot. After passing Buckman frequently saw mica schist boulders. Probably they occurred also before reaching Buckman, but were unobserved.
Reached Santa Fe at 2:45 p.m.. Expressed plants, had trunks transferred from Rio Grande depot to Santa Fe depot, then called on Dendahl, a University student who is also in the dry goods and clothing business. Had dinner at 6 p.m. at Palace Hotel 75[cents]. Express on trunks, Buckman to Santa Fe $1.00, transfer of trunks 50[cents], other baggage 25[cents]. Bought a Pajarito rug of Dendahl $5.50 and he gave me a smaller Estrella, both Chimayo weavers, Left Santa Fe on 7:20 p.m. train. Reached Lamy at 8:10. Got on the "Limited" on time 9 p.m.. Sleeper $2.50. Warm evening.
La Junta, Colo., Aug 28, 1910
Reached here at 6:50 Partly cool, cloudy morning. Breakfast 75[cents]. Got train out for Denver at 8:35, Pullman 95[cents]. Reached Denver at 2:45 p.m. and dined at depot 50[cents]. Then caught the 4 p.m. train for Boulder. Sprinkled a little between Colorado Springs and Palmer Lake. Hot most of day. Reached Boulder at 5:20 p.m., very tired.
Boulder, Colo. Monday
Aug. 29, 1910
Bright warm morning. Had fine night's rest and feel better. Went to Seven gables for breakfast, Lunched with Prof. George and family.
Boulder, Colo. Tuesday,
Aug. 30, 1910.
Much cooler today and hazy. The Kerns moved out of our house in the forenoon. Leaving me alone. I dined in evening with Cockerells. ((End of notebook 4)) 1/4
Field Notes of Junius Henderson- notebook 4
Some personal measurements.