Instructions in Spirella Corsetry/Chapter 11

←

Chapter 11

→

25628Instructions in Spirella Corsetry — Chapter 11

Chapter 11: How to Measure the Body

1. Every client must be measured in exactly the same manner
and at the same places on the body. You must realize, then, that to
know the Spirella system is to simplify your work.

Measurements taken with the client standing in normal poise

Diagram R

   2. Body measurements are based an the
anatomy of the body. Certain points on the
body determine the location of these measure-
ments. That is the reason they are taken in
the same way and at the same places on each
client. As each measurement is taken, write it
in your Memorandum Order Book.

   3. The waist line is the base from which all
up and down measurements are taken; there-
fore the waist measurement must be. taken first,
using the tape line with the buckle-end. This
must remain fixed until all measurements are
taken. Measurements are taken as follows:
Waist (indicated by line W-W on diagram R.)
Place buckle-end tape line in a straight line
around the waist, making sure that it does not
curve up in the back or dip down in front; then
fasten it snugly. Tuck the loose end in the top
of the corset, so that the tape line around the
waist will not be disturbed in any way as you
proceed.

   4. Bust (indicated by line B-B on diagram
R.) Stand at one side slightly behind your
client, place the tape line smoothly over the
fullest part of the bust and around the back
about one inch above the lowest point of the
shoulder blades. Do not take this measure-
ment tightly.

   5. Hip (indicated by line H-H on diagram
R.) To insure accuracy, place pins 6½ inches
below the waist line in front, at the sides and
in the back; measure around the hips over these pins; draw the tape
line very tightly. Be sure to remove the pins after taking this
measurement.

   6. Center front above waist (indicated by line 1-2 on diagram
S.) Measure from bottom of the tape line at the waist up the center

Diagram S

front to a paint sufficiently high an the body to
assist in controlling the position of the breasts.
This body measurement helps you to decide the

Diagram T

height of the clasp.

   7. Center bust (indicated
by line 3-4 on diagram S.)
Measure from bottom of the
tape line at the waist up to
the center of the breast.

   8. Under arm (indicated
by line 5-6 on diagram S.)
Measure from bottom of the
tape line at the waist up
under the arm to a paint on
a level with the measurement
taken around the bust. The
client's arm should not be
raised while taking this
measurement.

   9. Back above waist (in.
dicated by line 7-8 an dia-
gram T.) Measure from bot-
tom of the tape line at the
waist straight up to a point
about one inch above the
lowest paint of the shoulder
blade.

   10. Back below waist (indicated by line 9-10 on diagram U.)
Measure from bottom of the tape line at the waist straight dawn

Diagram U

over the back hip to the back of the leg, entirely
covering the curve of the flesh. This measurement
is taken directly under the measurement for back
above waist line.

11. Hip length (indicated by line 11-12 on dia
gram V.) Measure from bottom of the tape line
at the waist straight down over the side hip to a

Diagram V

paint on the leg, suffi-
ciently low to cover
the curve of the flesh.

12. Groin lengths
(indicated by line 13-
14-15 on diagram V.)
Measure from bottom
of the tape line at the
waist, down to the
groin (the bend of the
leg just above the
thigh) and from there
down to a point on the
leg sufficiently low to
cover any flesh it may
be necessary to control.
This gives two lengths;
the actual groin length
(see diagram 5 ) and
the length to cover leg
flesh.

13. Center front be-
low waist (indicated by
line 16-17 on diagram
V. ) Measure from bot-
tom of the tape line at
the waist down to the
upper edge of the pelvic arch. Draw the
tape line taut to get a flat measure. This
body measure helps you to decide the
length of the clasp.

Front View Skeletal Frame Diagram 5	14. The illustrations of the skeletal frame show the pelvic girdle. This is formed by three bones—the lower part of the spine, in the center back, and the two hip bones on each side joining the spine. The hip bones curve toward the front and there unite to form what is called the pelvic
arch. Explain this to the client and ask her to locate the top of the pelvic arch. Or you can locate this arch on the client by pressing firmly inward and downward on the flesh of the lower part of the abdomen until you touch the upper edge of the bones forming the arch.	Side View Skeletal Frame—Diagram 6

Diagram W F

Measure from bottom of the tape
line at the waist to a point just
escaping the flesh of the thigh in
this position.

17. Back boning (indicated by
line 20-21 on diagram W B.)
Measure from bottom of the tape
line at the waist over the curve of
the hips in the back. Boning
should be short enough to escape
the chair.

Ask the client to be seated

15. Test the center bust meas-
urement in the sitting position.
If this shows a shorter measure-
ment than the one taken in stand-
ing position, do not make the
corset any higher than this test
measurement. The flesh of some
clients settles when they are
sitting.

16. Groin boning (indicated
by line 18-19 on diagram W F.)

Diagram W B

18. As the different measurements are obtained, in the order
given, they should be written in the spaces in your Memorandum
Order Book provided for the actual measurements. There is also
a place to check figure description. Check off those which describe
your client. In this way you keep an accurate record of her body
measurements and conditions. This is essential to assist you in a
careful study of the figure and to select the corset which will best
care for your client's needs.

19. NEVER TEAR THIS SHEET FROM YOUR MEMORANDUM ORDER BOOK,
AS IT IS YOUR ONLY PERMANENT RECORD OF THE CLIENT'S ACTUAL BODY
MEASUREMENTS AND CONDITIONS.

THE SPIRELLA SYSTEM OF MEASURING THE BODY

MEASURE AROUND BODY	{	1. Waist 2. Bust 3. Hip
MEASURE ABOVE WAIST LINE	{	4. Center front 5. Center bust 6. Underarm 7. Back
MEASURE BELOW WAIST LINE	{	8. Back 9. Hip 10. Groin (two lengths) 11. Center front
MEASURE IN SITTING POSITION	{	12. Test center bust 13. Groin boning 14. Back boning