Lands of the Saracen/Contents

by Bayard Taylor

 

CONTENTS

 

CHAPTER I.
LIFE IN A SYRIAN QUARANTINE.
Voyage from Alexandria to Beyrout — Landing at Quarantine — The Guardiano — Our Quarters — Our Companions — Famine and Feasting — The Morning — The Holy Man of Timbuctoo — Sunday in Quarantine — Islamism — We are Registered — Love through a Grating — Trumpets — The Mystery Explained — Delights of Quarantine — Oriental vs. American Exaggeration — A Discussion of Politics — Our Release — Beyrout — Preparations for the Pilgrimage	17
CHAPTER II.
THE COAST OF PALESTINE.
The Pilgrimage Commences — The Muleteers — The Mules — The Donkey — Journey to Sidon — The Foot of Lebanon — Pictures — The Ruins of Tyre — A Wild Morning — Th«e Tyrian Surges — Climbing the Ladder of Tyre — Panorama of the Bay of Acre — Tht Plain of Esdraelon — Camp in a Garden — Acre — the Shore of the Bay — Haifa — Mount Carmel and its Monastery — A Deserted Coast — The Ruins of Cæsarea — The Scenery of Palestine — We become Robbers — El Haram — Wrecks — the Harbor and Town of Jaffa	32
CHAPTER III.
FROM JAFFA TO JERUSALEM.
The Garden of Jaffa — Breakfast at a Fountain — The Plain of Sharon — The Ruined Mosque of Ramleh — A Judean Landscape — The Streets of Ramleh — Am I in Palestine? — A Heavenly Morning — The Land of Milk and Honey — Entering the Hill-Country — The Pilgrim's Breakfast — The Father of Lies — A Church of the Crusaders — The Agriculture of the Hills — The Valley of Elah — Day-Dreams — The Wilderness — The Approach — We See the Holy City	48
CHAPTER IV.
THE DEAD SEA AND THE RIVER JORDAN.
Bargaining for a Guard — Departure from Jerusalem — The Hill of Offence — Bethany — The Grotto of Lazarus — The Valley of Fire — Scenery of the Wilderness — The Hills of Engaddi — The shore of the Dead Sea — A Bituminous Bath — Gallop to the Jordan — A watch for Robbers — The Jordan — Baptism — The Plains of Jerich — The Fountain of Elisha — The Mount of Temptation — Return to Jerusalem	60
CHAPTER V.
THE CITY OF CHRIST.
Modern Jerusalem — The Site of the City — Mount Zion — Mount Moriah — The Temple — The Valley of Jehosaphat — The Olives of Gethsemane — The Mount of Olives — Moslem Tradition — Panorama from the Summit — The Interior of the City — The Population — Missions and Missionaries — Christianity in Jerusalem — Intolerance — The Jews of Jerusalem — The Face of Christ — The Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Holy of Holies — The Sacred Localities — Visions of Christ — The Mosque of Omar — The Holy Man of Timbuctoo — Preparations for Departure	72
CHAPTER VI.
THE HILL-COUNTRY OF PALESTINE.
Leaving Jerusalem — The Tombs of the Kings — El Bireh — The Hill-Country — First View of Mount Hermon — The Tomb of Joseph — Ebal and Gerizim — The Gardens of Nablous — The Samaritans — The Sacred Book — A Scene in the Synagogue — Mentor and Telemachus — Ride to Samaria — The Ruins of Sebaste — Scriptural Landscapes — Halt at Genin — The Plain of Esdraelon — Palestine and California — The Hills of Nazareth — Accident — Fra Joachim — The Church of the Virgin — The Shrine of the Annunciation — The Holy Places	88
CHAPTER VII.
THE COUNTRY OF GALILEE.
Departure from Nazareth — A Christian Guide — Ascent of Mount Tabor — Wallachian Hermits — The Panorama of Tabor — Ride to Tiberias — A Bath in Genesareth — The Flowers of Galilee — The Mount of Beatitude — Magdala — Joseph's Well — Meeting with a Turk — The Fountain of the Salt-Works — The Upper Valley of the Jordan — Summer Scenery — The Rivers of Lebanon — Tell el-Kadi — An Arcadian Region— The Fountains of Banias	103
CHAPTER VIII.
CROSSING THE ANTI-LEBANON.
The Harmless Guard — Cæsarea Philippi — The Valley of the Druses — The Sides of Mount Hermon — An Alarm — Threading a Defile — Distant view of Djebel Hauaran — Another Alarm — Camp at Katana — We Ride into Damascus	115
CHAPTER IX.
PICTURES OF DAMASCUS.
Damascus from the Anti-Lebanon — Entering the City — A Diorama of Bazaars — An Oriental Hotel — Our Chamber — The Bazaars — Pipes and Coffee — The Rivers of Damascus — Palaces of the Jews — Jewish Ladies — A Christian Gentleman — The Sacred Localities — Damascus Blades — The Sword of Haroun Al-Raschid — An Arrival from Palmyra	120
CHAPTER X.
THE VISIONS OF HASHEESH. —	133
CHAPTER XI.
A DISSERTATION ON BATHING AND BODIES. —	149
CHAPTER XII.
BAALBEC AND LEBANON.
Departure from Damascus — The Fountains of the Pharpar — Pass of the Anti-Lebanon — Adventure with the Druses — The Range of Lebanon — The Demon of Hasheesh departs — Impressions of Baalbec — The Temple of the Sun — Titanic Masonry — The Ruined Mosque — Camp on Lebanon — Rascality of the Guide — The Summit of Lebanon — The Sacred Cedars — The Christians of Lebanon — An Afternoon in Eden — Rugged Travel — We Reach the Coast — Return to Beyrout	161
CHAPTER XIII.
PIPES AND COFFEE. —	178
CHAPTER XIV.
JOURNEY TO ANTIOCH AND ALEPPO.
Change of Plans — Routes to Baghdad — Asia Minor — We sail from Beyrout — Yachting on the Syrian Coast — Tartus and Latakiyeh — The Coasts of Syria — The Bay of Suediah — The Mouth of the Orontes — Landing — The Garden of Syria — Ride to Antioch — The Modern City — The Plains of the Orontes — Remains of the Greek Empire — The Ancient Road — The Plain of Keftin — Approach to Aleppo	186
CHAPTER XV.
LIFE IN ALEPPO.
Our Entry into Aleppo — We are conducted to a House — Our Unexpected Welcome — The Mystery Explained — Aleppo — Its Name — Its Situation — The Trade of Aleppo — The Christians — The Revolt of 1850 — Present Appearance of the City — Visit to Osman Pasha — The Citadel — View from the Battlements — Society in Aleppo — Etiquette and Costume — Jewish Marriage Festivities — A Christian Marriage Procession — Ride around the Town — Nightingales — The Aleppo Button — A Hospital for Cats — Ferhat Fasha	196
CHAPTER XVI.
THROUGH THE SYRIAN GATES.
An Inauspicious Departure — The Ruined Church of St. Simon — The Plain of Antioch — A Turcoman Encampment — Climbing Akma Dagh — The Syrian Gates — Scanderoon — An American Captain — Revolt of the Koords — We take a Guard — The Field of Issus — The Robber-Chief, Kutchuk All — A Deserted Town — A Land of Gardens	215
CHAPTER XVII.
ADANA AND TARSUS.
The Black Gate — The Plain of Cilicia — A Koord Village — Missis — Ciliclan Scenery — Arrival at Adana — Three days in Quarantine — We receive Pratique — A Landscape — The Plain of Tarsus — The River Cydnus — A Vision of Cleopatra — Tarsus and its Environs — The Duniktash — The Moon of Ramazan	226
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE PASS OF MOUNT TAURUS.
We enter the Taurus — Turcomans — Forest Scenery — the Palace of Pan — Khan Mezarluk — Morning among the Mountains — The Gorge of the Cydnus — The Crag of the Fortress — The Cilician Gate — Deserted Forts — A Sublime Landscape — The Gorge of the Sihoon — The Second Gate — Camp in the Defile — Sunrise — Journey up the Sihoon — A Change of Scenery — A Pastoral Valley — Kolü Kushla — A Deserted Khan — A Guest in Ramazan — Flowers — The Plain of Karamania — Barren Hills — The Town of Eregli — The Hadji again	236
CHAPTER XIX.
THE PLAINS OF KARAMANIA.
The Plains of Karamania — Afternoon Heat — A Well — Volcanic Phenomona — Karamania — A Grand Ruined Khan — Moonlight Picture — A Landscape of the Plains — Mirages — A Short Interview — The Village of Ismil — Third Day on the Plains — Approach to Konia	250
CHAPTER XX.
SCENES IN KONIA.
Approach to Konia — Tomb of Hazret Mevlana — Lodgings in a Khan — An American Luxury — A Night-Scene in Ramazan — Prayers in the Mosque — Remains of the Ancient City — View from the Mosque — The Interior — A Leaning Minaret — The Diverting History of the Muleteers	256
CHAPTER XXI.
THE HEART OF ASIA MINOR.
Scenery of the Hills — Ladik, the Ancient Laodicea — The Plague of Gad-Flies — Camp at Ilgün — A Natural Warm Bath — The Gad-Flies Again — A Summer Landscape — Ak-Sheher — The Base of Sultan Dagh — The Fountain of Midas — A Drowsy Journey — The Town of Bolawadün	265
CHAPTER XXII.
THE FORESTS OF PHRYGIA.
The Frontier of Phrygia — Ancient Quarries and Tombs — We Enter the Pine Forests — A Guard-House — Encampments of the Turcomans — Pastoral Scenery — A Summer Village — The Valley of the Tombs — Rock Sepulchres of the Phrygian Kings — The Titan'a Camp — The Valley of Kümbeh — A Land of Flowers — Turcoman Hospitality — The Exiled Effendis — The Old Turcoman — A Glimpse of Arcadia — A Landscape — Interested Friendship — The Valley of the Pursek — Arrival at Kiutahya	274
CHAPTER XXIII.
KIUTAHYA, AND THE RUINS OF ŒZANI.
Entrance into Kiutahya — The New Khan — An Unpleasant Discovery — Kiutahya — The Citadel — Panorama from the Walls — The Gorge of the Mountains — Camp in a Meadow — The Valley of the Rhyndacus — Chavdür — The Ruins of Œzani — The Acropolis and Temple — The Theatre and Stadium — Ride down the Valley — Camp at Daghj-Köi	290
CHAPTER XXIV.
THE MTSIAN OLYMPUS.
Journey Down the Valley — The Plague of Grasshoppers — A Defile — The Town of Tauehanlü — The Camp of Famine — We leave the Rhyndacus — The Base of Olympus — Primeval Forests — The Guard-House — Scenery of the Summit — Forests of Beech — -Saw-Mills — Descent of the Mountain — The View of Olympus — Morning — The Land of Harvest — Aineghiöl — A Showery Ride — The Plain of Brousa — The Structure of Olympus — We reach Brousa — The Tent is Furled	300
CHAPTER XXV.
BROUSA AND THE SEA OF MARMORA.
The City of Brousa — Return to Civilization — Storm — The Kalputcha Hammam — A Hot Bath — A Foretaste of Paradise — The Streets and Bazaars of Brousa — The Mosque — The Tombs of the Ottoman Sultans — Disappearance of the Katurgees — We start for Moudania — The Sea of Marmora — Moudania — Passport Difficulties — A Greek Caǐque — Breakfast with the Fishermen — A Torrid Voyage — The Princes' Islands — Prinkipo — Distant View of Constantinople — We enter the Golden Horn	312
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE NIGHT OF PREDESTINATION.
Constantinople in Ramazan — The Origin of the Fast — Nightly Illuminations — The Night of Predestination — The Golden Horn at Night — Illumination of the Shores — The Cannon of Constantinople — A Fiery Panorama — The Sultan's Caǐque — Close of the Celebration — A Turkish Mob — The Dancing Dervishes	324
CHAPTER XXVII.
THE SOLEMNITIES OF BAIRAM.
The Appearance of the New Moon — The Festival of Bairam — The Interior of the Seraglio — The Pomp of the Sultan's Court — Reschid Pasha — The Sultan's Dwarf — Arabian Stallions — The Imperial Guard — Appearance of the Sultan — The Inner Court — Return of the Procession — The Sultan on his Throne — The Homage of the Pashas — An Oriental Picture — Kissing the Scarf — The Shekh el-Islam — The Descendant of the Caliphs — Bairam Commences	332
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE MOSQUES OF CONSTANTINOPLE.
Sojurn at Constantinople — Semi-European Character of the City — The Mosque — Procuring a Firman — The Seraglio — The Library — The Ancient Throne-Room — Admittance to St. Sophia — Magnificence of the Interior — The Marvellous Dome — The Mosque of Sultan Achmed — The Sulemanye — Great Conflagrations — Political Meaning of the Fires — Turkish Progress — Decay of the Ottoman Power	343
CHAPTER XXIX.
FAREWELL TO THE ORIENT — MALTA.
Embarcation — Farewell to the Orient — Leaving Constantinople — A Wreck — The Dardanelles — Homeric Scenery — Smyrna Revisited — The Grecian Isles — Voyage to Malta — Detention — La Valetta — The Maltese — The Climate — A Boat for Sicily	355
CHAPTER XXX.
THE FESTIVAL OF ST. AGATHA.
Departure from Malta — The Speronara — Our Fellow-Passengers — The First Night on Board — Sicily — Scarcity of Provisions — Beating in the Calabrian Channel — The Fourth Morning — The Gulf of Catania — A Sicilian Landscape — The Anchorage — The Suspected List — The Streets of Catania — Biography of St. Agatha — The Illuminations — The Procession of the Veil — The Biscari Palace — The Antiquities of Catania — The Convent of St. Nicola	363
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE ERUPTION OF MOUNT ETNA.
The Mountain Threatens — The Signs Increase — We Leave Catania — Gardens Among the Lava — Etna Labors — Aci Reale — The Groans of Etna — The Eruption — Gigantic Tree of Smoke — Formation of the New Crater — We Lose Sight of the Mountain — Arrival at Messina — Etna is Obscured — Departure	375
CHAPTER XXXII.
GIBRALTAR.
Unwritten Links of Travel — Departure from Southampton — The Bay of Biscay — Cintra — Trafalgar — Gibraltar at Midnight — Landing — Search for a Palm-Tree — A Brilliant Morning — The Convexity of the Earth — Sun-Worship — The Rock	383
CHAPTER XXXIII.
CADIZ AND SEVILLE.
Voyage to Cadiz — Landing — The City — Its Streets — The Women of Cadiz — Embarkation for Seville — Scenery of the Guadalquivir — Custom House Examination — The Guide — The Streets of Seville — The Giralda — The Cathedral of Seville — The Alcazar — Moorish Architecture — Pilate's House — Morning View from the Giralda — Old Wine — Murillos — My Last Evening in Seville	391
CHAPTER XXXIV.
JOURNEY IN A SPANISH DILIGENCE.
Spanish Diligence Lines — Leaving Seville — An Unlucky Start — Alcalà of the Bakers — Dinner at Carmona — A Dehesa — The Mayoral and his Team — Ecija — Night Journey — Cordova — The Cathedral-Mosque — Moorish Architecture — The Sierra Morena — A Rainy Journey — A Chapter of Accidents — Baylen — The Fascination of Spain — Jaen — The Vega of Granada	403
CHAPTER XXXV.
GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA.
Mateo Ximenez, the Younger — The Cathedral of Granada — A Monkish Miracle — Catholic Shrines — Military Cherubs — The Royal Chapel — The Tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella — Chapel of San Juan de Dios — The Albaycin — View or the Vega — The Genera life — The Alhambra — Torra de la Vela — The Walls and Towers — A Visit to Old Mateo — The Court of the Fish-pond — The Halls of the Alhambra — Character of the Architecture — Hall of the Abencerrages — Hall of the Two Sisters — The Moorish Dynasty in Spain	414
CHAPTER XXXVI.
THE BRIDLE-ROADS OF ANDALUSIA.
Change of Weather — Napoleon and his Horses — Departure from Granada — My Guide, José Garcia — His Domestic Troubles — The Tragedy of the Umbrella — The Vow against Aguardiente — Crossing the Vega — The Sierra Nevada — The Baths of Alhama — "Woe is Me, Alhama!" — The Valley of the River Velez — Velez Malaga — The Coast Road — The Fisherman and his Donkey — Malaga — Summer Scenery — The Story of Don Pedro, without Fear and without Care — The Field of Monda — A Lonely Venta	427
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA.
Orange Valleys — Climbing the Mountains — José's Hospitality — El Burgo — The Gate of the Wind — The Cliff and Cascades of Ronda — The Mountain Region — Traces of the Moors — Haunts of Robbers — A Stormy Ride — The Inn at Gaucin — Bad News — A Boyish Auxiliary — Descent from the Mountains — The Ford of the Guadiaro — Our Fears Relieved — The Cork Woods — Ride from San Roque to Gibraltar — Parting with José — Travelling in Spain — Conclusion	489